Best products from r/leaf

First, some background: The percentage display on the dashboard is only loosely related to the actual state of charge of the battery, because the battery management system reserves a buffer at both the bottom and top end of the charge range to protect the longevity of the battery. When you charge up to 100%, there's 38-39 kWh in the battery rather than 40 kWh. The highest I've gotten the true SoC (state of charge) of the battery to when it showed 100% on the dashboard is 98.2%, but 95-97% has been more common. Similarly, when it says 4% on the dashboard, there's a good bit more than 4% of actual charge still in the battery. It's like how you can drive many miles after the meter reads "E" (empty) in a gas car. After 0% it'll show "--%" if it's like previous year Leafs while driving quite a few more miles, then you'll get a turtle icon and reduced power for a final mile or two to safely pull over. At that point, the car will stop moving, but there's actually some kWh of power still in the pack, because running a lithium ion battery down to real 0% permanently damages it and the car won't let you do that.

THAT SAID, I am slightly concerned about what you've said. I did a 60 mile highway drive yesterday with the A/C on full blast in 90 degree weather and >70 MPH most of the way, and still averaged 4 miles per kWh. I don't think I've ever gotten only 3.2 miles per kWh in the new Leaf. I've had many trips with more than 5 miles per kWh on 35-45 MPH roads. I am easily getting the 150 miles per charge, so if you're only getting 80-120, that sounds wrong.

This sounds silly, but what are your tire pressures at? The difference between underinflated and overinflated tires can easily be 10% or more on your miles/kWh efficiency. I have mine at 42 PSI right now. When a new car shows up at a dealership, one of the things they do to prep it for sale is to let air out of the tires, because they're shipped overinflated. If they let out too much, you'll want to pump them back up above 40 PSI (well above the 36 PSI the sticker says to inflate them to, I know) and go on another long drive to see if that improves your efficiency.

If that doesn't work, the next thing I'd do is get on Amazon and order this OBDII scanner and download the Leaf Spy Pro app on your phone. That will let you see the real State of Charge in kWh for your car whenever you want, which will help you figure out if there's a real issue here.

• Typical Leaf Spy Pro screenshot near 100% charge
  
• New battery stats
  
• 4 mi/kWh was my average over the first 220 miles I put on the car, which gives you 150+ miles range as advertised
  
• High efficiency on local trips shouldn't be too rare
  

Congratulations on your new Leaf! For anyone who doesn't have a similar device already, definitely plug in one of these and connect it with the LeafSpy app on your phone before your 7 days is up: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5539G61R49EZH0220MRH

You want to be sure the battery is in good condition before you lose your opportunity to return the car. Good luck and enjoy your new Leaf!

leaf spy recommended one specific scanner, the LELink bluetooth model.

I would go with that specific model.

it is awesome!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC

I've owned two wifi models, a chinese one and a good plx devices kiwi and the first was maddening and rarely worked correctly, and the second sometimes required extra resetting.

now that ios supports bluetooth, its all easy peasy.

You need an iphone that supports bluetooth 4.0.

anyway, leaf spy connects perfectly and without intervention or configuration in a second or two and its a whole different (good) experience.

I've got both inverters. The pure sine wave is clean AC and electronic equipment works well - no humming of overheating. I started with an inverter that I had that was modified sine wave and the electronics made a humming noise. I'd recommend the pure sine wave inverters.

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I'm using a 2000 watt inverter, but some things like an induction stove don't run. I'd consider a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Also, make sure you size the cables correctly - fatter wire is best.

You've got it. /u/WizrdOfSpeedAndTime got you covered with the earlier comment. Just to provide another option for you, I went with this Siemens Versicharge Unit. <$500 from Amazon. $250 to have a local electrician run a line to the garage for me.

Had it for about 5 years now, and have been pretty happy. I did run in to an issue with the equipment but they stood up, replaced it, very easy.

The 110 charging cable just stays in my trunk and I use if VERY RARELY... but it is nice to have for emergencies.

I'm definitely in the "this electrician appears not qualified camp".

My guidance to anyone installing a new circuit for an EVSE is to spend a few more dollars on high-quality parts and future proof the installation a bit on amperage. Remember, the cost for a project like this is mainly labor, not parts (especially with only 3-feet between the receptacle and panel).

With that in mind, I'd order a commercial NEMA 14-50R ($80) receptacle rather than use the cheap ($8) one the electrician will undoubtedly get from the local big box store. I'd also size everything correctly for the full 50 amps, even if your current EVSE and/or BEV charging capacity is smaller than that.

Here are some specifics based on what you shared with us:

• Order these from Amazon and tell the electrician to install them:
  
  • Hubbell Wiring Systems HBL9450A Heavy Duty Specification Receptacle, 50 Amp, 125/250VAC, 3 Pole, 4 Wire, Black
    
    • https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00IPBMUKY
      
  • Hubbell Wiring Systems Receptacle Wall Plate, 2 Gang, 2-31/64" Hole Diameter
    
    • NOTE: As the commercial duty receptacle has a slightly larger diameter you need a matching faceplate. The faceplates from big box store are slightly smaller and won't fit.
      
    • https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Wiring-Systems-313292-Receptacle/dp/B002FYJ758
      
• The electrician provides these:
  
  • 50 amp double-pole breaker
    
  • 2-gang deep receptacle box
    
  • Type NM-B 6/3 with ground conductor
    
    • NOTE: Do not let the electrician talk you into using a smaller gauge wiring, such as 8/3. The NEC ampacity table for NM-B cable is pretty clear on this and your guy already seems to not be the sharpest electrician in town.
      
  • Bits and bobs to connect everything up.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074M5Z9YX/

They are very white and extremely bright, but I like it. When I come up to my car, I can see everywhere inside, so there are no surprises. I mainly did it because the non-LED bulbs that came with my Leaf ran so hot that it felt like you could burn your hand on the plastic cover after a few minutes. I can't believe all car bulbs aren't LED already. I used the leftovers in a Toyota. They weren't an exact fit, but it was close enough that I could use them.

I recently had a power outage and did this with a 1000w power inverter, but I connected it directly to the 12v battery posts. I don't think you'll get as much power through the cigarette lighter plug. You'll want to turn the car on so the car drive symbol is on, turn off lights, radio, anything unnecessary. This way it'll actively recharge your 12v battery while you draw from it. I ran our sump pump from the car which ran on/off for 3 hours and used about 3% of the main battery.

EDIT: Here's an example of a 1500w pure sine inverter with good reviews. This should power even sensitive items, like a fridge compressor without issues. https://www.amazon.com/PWRI150012120S-Inverter-Continuous-Circuit-Protection/dp/B07JNCD6VZ

>What should I know? What should I check?

if you look at the window sticker in the lower right is the build date if you look closely.

50 miles isn't many test drives in two years at least.

If you get this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRE0OOA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

and have an iPhone or android you can check the battery health with leaf spy.

Summer heat & humidity tend to damage the battery and AFAIK the switch to better heat-resistant batteries happened late in the MY2014 build.

Note that if you don't pay $7500 in federal income taxes you won't get the $7500 credit, since it's not a refundable credit.

$11,000 for a leaf with 50 miles on it is pretty good. I'd go for it, though with such a short commute you're not going to get a lot of savings going EV.

But the Leaf will blow any other $11,000 car off the line, that's for sure. That motor pulls like a train, until 40mph or so.

Yes, what this person is saying. Download Leaf Spy Pro (yes, it'll cost you a few bucks off Google Play, oh well), and get an OBD (I got this one - ANY Leaf you come across, plug it in, load up Leaf Spy Pro, and look at the top right number in the main screen. Here is an example -- the 50.8% at the top at 67.4% SOC (state of charge) means the car is probably around 75-77% SOH (state of health) -- you don't want to buy a used Leaf like mine with that much battery degradation unless you just won't drive long-distance (my trips to Portland from Hillsboro are very rare, only about once every two weeks, and it's only 35 miles roundtrip).

BTW for anyone wondering from my screenshot, yes, the battery does get that hot. It's 85 F outside right now outside my house, and I just came back from the grocery store. Yes, Leaf Spy Pro does indeed say my battery is at 127 F. One time I came back from Portland and my battery temped at 205 F according to Leaf Spy Pro. This is what us Leaf customers get for buying an EV with no thermal management system...

I've been working on this problem for a while... you are right, its not the phone or the USB port. I think it is related to the data transfer rate of the cable. I tried Anker's cable. It helped but still crashed.

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I had some better luck after I bought this cable which is USB 3.1 (keep in mind that usb data rates are backward compatible) - I still get crashed but much less frequently:

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https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYR2O/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=amazonbasics+3.1+usb&qid=1558037805&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

Depends what your purchasing factors are. Is cost your main sale point or is functionality like wi-fi options something you care for?

I recommend Juicebox if you want everything in one package: https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-WiFi-equipped-Electric-Vehicle-Charging/dp/B00UB9R4KO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495805823&sr=8-3&keywords=juicebox+evse

heads up - my windows are tinted but on cooler mornings I prefer to have my windows cracked open for the breeze, but then I get the same annoyance you do. I purchased a visor extender from amazon like other posts in here suggested. Here is the one i got, I'm fairly happy with it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F2BC544/

I purchased this in 2018, and it works perfectly. Looks like it has a 50' length available.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8W9SYV

Thank you for your input. Winter in Iowa is pretty bad at times and going to work i tend to drive 65 half way and 80 the other half, so ill def have to slow down and prob leave sooner, but i can alter my driving habits.

Google suggested this, would you suggest it also? https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek-HCS-40-Charging-Station-CERTIFIED/dp/B00TJD0ZW2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536344420&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ClipperCreek+HCS-40&psc=1

I also emailed a local ele to get a quote to upgrade my wiring.

Traffic isnt bad most days since i work have to deal with rush hour, i think the biggest thing will be making sure i dont have a lead foot.

What happens if you run out of power on the way to or from work?

Foseal Improved Version Car WiFi OBD2 Scanner OBDII Scan Code Reader: ://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077F8F6TB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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This is the one I got. Not sure if it's available in the UK. It works surprisingly well.

> Do you think the one with 48000 miles has DC fast charge?

There is no way to speculate about either of them without actually looking at the car. If you can call the dealer and get them to post a picture of the charging port, that's the best way. And whatever you do, make sure to double-check it yourself before signing anything.

I bought this OBD reader, it works with TorquePro and LeafSpy, and is on Amazon Prime, at least in my area. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, that's what I did but if you do this it's even better if you use a camera that runs at 12v instead of having to convert that 12V to 5V first.

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Anything from Blackvue will work, you can tap it yourself or buy this Mirror Tap product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LBKUPWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

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Here is a description of my installation in a 2014 Leaf- I converted to 5V at that time. For my Chevy Bolt I went ahead and purchased a BlackVue camera to simplify my life:

https://www.reddit.com/r/leaf/comments/2d9qax/installing_a_dashcam_using_the_powered_rearview/

I was also surprised and frustrated when I couldn't get AA to work correctly in my 2019 Leaf. I ended up seeing a post (can't remember where) saying that the USB cable linked below worked for them so I figured I'd give it a shot. I just received it yesterday and it works perfectly with my Moto X4. The braiding makes it a little stiff, but that allows you to bend it a bit and have it sort of keep the shape you choose, which helps keep it out of the way of the tight spot where the phone goes in the Leaf.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PM3S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far so good!

Order one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works like a champ!

Fellow iOS owner here. Get this Bluetooth low energy adapter. Works great for LeafSpy. Waaaay faster than wifi, and no need to change your wifi settings every time you want a peek.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_74E-wb57TB3PE

PlugShare is your friend. Visit the website, get the app, get familiar with charger locations.

Check to see if the car qualifies for the No Charge to Charge program from Nissan. This will allow you get charge free at select chargers for 2 years.

Nissan's EZ Charge app also tells you where the chargers that are Nissan compatible are. Bonus, it is also blatantly obvious about where you can leverage No Charge to Charge, again, only if you qualify for that.

When planning on going on a long distance drive, be familiar with where the chargers are along the way.

If you haven't already, look in to an L2 charger for use at home. Most folks will get a JuiceBox Pro 40A which enables them to track power utilization via WiFi. Bonus of getting the JuiceBox vs some of the others is that the JuiceBox uses the NEMA 14-50 connector, which enables you push more power later on. Basically buying for all electric cars you might buy, not just this one. Plus cheaper that the ChargePoint at home variant, though the ChargePoint at home Variant is handy for tracking charges at home, and not at home.

Get the apps for the Chargers in your area. As mentioned, there's ChargePoint, Greenlots, and others. PlugShare is good for finding the chargers regardless of brand/owner. The brand/owner apps are handy for actually using those chargers, and seeing whether or not they're in use, or online. When you get to the charger, the app can let you enable it, and track the charging status.

Don't be too worried about the charger vendor variants. It's basically like having RaceTrac, Wawa, Mobile, Exxon, gas stations and such. You might prefer going to one brand over the other, but it helps to know where the others are for when you're in dire need of a charge.

Other than that, just learn to leverage regenerative braking (B-Mode) while driving, and avoid hard accelerations, and hard braking.

Thanks.

Ok, I found this for $430, but it's indoor only, and had only a 14' cord.

This for $499 is indoor/outdoor, but has only a 20' cord.

Unfortunately, neither would meet my needs -- my parking space can barely be reached using my current 23' cord, and I can't practically install a new electrical anything that's any closer.

Funny that a search for "EVSE" didn't find either of these.

BTW, I provided these links using my phone.

What /u/iakona_ said to set the regular timer. Unfortunately no known way to set the climate controls from the OBDII port, so no remote heating outside of the built-in timer. Also, make sure to get a verified working OBDII dongle. Newer ones don't work. I have this one and it works great (and has a switch to turn it off built in): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q5YRC4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure. This is the exact one I bought.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_46GLzbYEMWG80

• Get a Bluetooth OBDII adapter (https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497904775&sr=8-2&keywords=bluetooth+OBD),
  
• check the StateOfCharge on the battery with LeafSpy (get the paid version) on the app store.
  
• Me, I would look at 2015s since they have the newer battery.
  
• Preferably check if it has the QuickCharge package (should have a CHADMO connector in the front next to the normal charge port).
  
• Make sure they have the trickle charger.
  
• Assume if the dealer is not Nissan, they won't anything about the car.
  
• Check CarFax for maintenance.

I bought the BAFX OBDII which has been working well for my 2013 Leaf and LeafSpy Pro using two different Android devices. It's also about $13 less than the LELink device.

It's the JuiceBox Pro EVSE on amazon for $600.

They also have the regular JuiceBox (without the wifi extras) for $500.

I believe this is the one the app recommended at the time, LELink, so that's what I got, even though it's more expensive than most others. I can confirm it works, though: ww.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC

I don't have an iPhone so I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Works fine on my 2017 with my phone & tablet.

Holy cow. Did they sell you a Level 3 or level 2 charger?

A L3 charger uses the CHADEMO port on the Leaf (the left side one) and you do NOT want to be doing that on a daily basis. It's going to heat up and wear the pack out quickly. It is highly unusual to have such an installation in a home. If you do have such a beast, you are going to definitely want to limit the charge rate--probably around 10kW.

A L2 charger uses 220-240V and charges at a rate of 6.6kW on a 2018 Leaf. It plugs into the J1772 port on the front of the car. This is what you should install in your home as it charges roughly 5x faster than L1 charging at 110V. This would take 6 hours to go from 0-100%.

A L1 charger charges on a standard 110V outlet (like you use for any appliance in your house). It charges at a rate of 1.5kW. For a 40 kWh leaf, this would take something like 29 hours from 0-100%.

Typically a home user will have a 50A 220V circuit run to a plug on the wall. Then you would buy a Juicebox Pro 40 and charge with that:
https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station/dp/B00UB9R4KO?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00UB9R4KO

If the charger is tripping the circuit breaker, something definitely sounds wrong. Keep in mind 22kWh is 100 Amps of current, which is a TON of power. You may be over-drawing what the house can provide and this could be a safety issue.

P.S. This info is valid for the US. Countries with 220V standard electrical service may differ.

Be wary of the really inexpensive ones. A lot of manufacturers have been keeping the model# and Amazon listing the same, but changing to a cheaper, less compatible chipset. In your link, people in 2015 and earlier say it work with Leaf. Some from in 2016-2018 say it doesn't.

I got burned on a different $10 model of these where the reviews said "Works with Leaf", and it didn't anymore.

This was the one I ended up getting that works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/

Here is the mobile version of your link

Another one that I can verify, since it's the one I am using, works on a 2014 Leaf is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one with my iPhone SE, on the list of compatible LeafSpy Pro devices for iOS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC

2013 Leaf SV

Would this device work with Leafspy?

Yeah, the LE Link (in case someone wants the link) is really slick by comparison to the other OBD connectors I saw. Very small, pulls nearly no power, and I never even had to pair it.