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First of all... thats a cute little gecko. I hope you get many years of pleasure out of caring for it.

But lets get down to business.

Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you haven't learned some of the basics... and I'd really really hate for you to get into a situation where your gecko didn't get to live a long happy life. For example, this is Ranger. I rescued him from one of my students who didn't know how to care for him properly. When I got him, he was in a poor state.


I want to make sure that your little buddy doesn't end up that way.


So, try something a little more like this.


1) 10 gallon tank.


Your plastic critter carrier is okay while its a baby, but it's going to outgrow that thing in about a month. Seriously, these guys grow up fast! A 10 gallon tank is perfectly fine for an individual leopard gecko. However, I prefer a 20 gallon long tank if you have the space for it. I'm sure the geckos appreciate the extra space to stretch their legs too. Believe it or not, they are actually very active at night! Don't let their daytime sleeping fool you.


2) Get a safe substrate.

Those wood chips look nice, but they're probably kind of difficult to walk on and some of the smaller pieces could cause impaction if he eats them. For babies I recommend paper towels. They're easy to clean up, and there is ZERO risk of impaction. If the white looks too bad, try the brown paper towels instead. That's what I used for Ranger when I was nursing him back to health. Alternately, you can use slate tiles, which look great and the geckos seem to really like. Just remember: NEVER USE SAND. It will kill your gecko.


3) Notice that there are three hiding spots.

On the left is a moist hide. It's just a disposable food container with damp paper towels inside. This will help with shedding, but they often like to go in it when they aren't shedding, so make sure to moisten the towels every couple of days. It's ugly so I put a fake plant in front of it. If this is too ugly for you, I'd suggest getting an Exo Terra Gecko Cave... obviously it costs a bit more. Likewise, you can get creative. I built Ranger's moist hide myself.


In the middle is the cool hide. It's just a flat piece of cork bark. It's simple, it looks really good, and they love it! They just crawl under it and chill. Once again, you can spurge on something fancy, but you don't have to!


On the right is the warm hide. It's one of those log hides, so it gets good air flow. You don't want something that will build up too much heat. It's sitting on top of a pice of slate tile, which is over the UTH.


4) Speaking of a UTH...

You need one. Leopard geckos can't digest food if they can't get their belly warm. A heat lamp does very little to help this. However, make sure that the hot spot doesn't get too warm. I'd recommend a thermostat, but I've also done perfectly fine with a mechanical timer. Mine shuts of for 30 minutes every two hours and that seems to keep it between 88 and 92 degrees.


5) Vitamins.

He needs a multivitamin powder, or you need to be feeding him "gut loaded" prey. For my geckos I just place some of the vitamin powder in the mealworm bowl. I also keep pieces of sandstone in my cages, and I dust the stones with calcium powder. They lick it right off!

It sounds like 73F is your AIR temp, which is indeed too low for the hot side. We should address the FLOOR temp too but I'll get to that.
If you'd like something to provide heat but not visible light you could get a ceramic bulb. They JUST make heat, but you'll want to get something dimmable because you won't want your cage actually getting too hot. When I was doing my research before I bought my leo I remember 85F being the maximum air temp you want your hot side to be, so I keep mine at or under that. I personally keep my red heat bulb on at all times at the same level, so it naturally dips at night and during the day reaches peak air temps around 83 or so.
This is a ceramic heat bulb that might work: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/zilla-ceramic-heat-emitter-50-watt.html
Pair it with a dimmable fixture like flukers, here: http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC
It's extremely convenient to be able to control the temperatures with that dimmer :) So you can use a bulb like that (ceramic) to heat your leo without the light. If you'd like a light for studying you can just use a lamp of any kind (a house lamp). It won't mess up your leos schedule, I don't believe. Especially since you'll turn it off and go to sleep for 5+ hours (sometimes less, I'm in college too) and let the room be in total darkness. I talked to someone who owned multiple crested geckos (which are nocturnal, not crepsecular, but still applies) and had them all in his dining room where he did work from home, sometimes until 1 or 2AM, and had his room lights on. it didn't bother them and he's been doing that for a long time. So based off of that I don't think you should worry. From my own experience with my leo, Noodles really loves when the room light is OFF (and it's completely dark in here excluding our computer screens and his incandescent heat bulb's red glow) but only when it's mealtime or playtime. He's not always in the mood. We keep our room lights on most nights and it's not that different from when we keep them off, which is nice.
Anyway tldr for your air heating problem I suggest a ceramic heat emitter bulb paired with some kind of dimmable lamp fixture like the Flukers I linked to provide the correct hot-side air temps while also not letting off any light.
For your lighting problem I think using a lamp in the room over your study area will be fine, or even just keeping the room light on. I don't think it's a huge deal based on others experiences as well as my own.
 
Now onto the floor temp/air temp problem. It sounds like you don't have anything to actually monitor the floor temp, which is more important than advertised on care sheets. You really need a temperature gun. You can get one easily for $20 on amazon, like where we got ours. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399701&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+gun+reptile
The temperature gun will probably tell you that your hot side's floor temperatures are WAY higher than they need to be. This is what happened to us. Somehow I didn't know that the heat mat would reach temps higher than I wanted, why would it right (??)? Got the radar gun just because, (not believing I'd actually need it) and woopdeedoo 105+F floor temps on the hot side. 13F higher than what it was supposed to be! So we rushed and bought a thermostat immediately (on amazon they're half the price than at petco). If I were in your position I'd buy a thermostat as soon as I could, paired with a temp gun. http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399998&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile
That's a really highly rated thermostat on there :) What you do with it is this: you'll plug the thermostat into your heat mat (or the heat mat into the thermostat, I can't remember which), then place the probe that comes with it (a long cable with a little doodad at the end) in the cage as close as you can to the dry hide. Here's a pic of how I did mine: http://i.imgur.com/o1vyB0g.jpg Set the temperature on your thermostat to maybe 85F or something and in an hour or so measure the floor temperature with your radar gun. 92F is the optimal floor temperature right underneath the dry hide, so aim for that. Play around with it and get it just right. Be sure to check on the floor temps every once in a while to make sure everything's still working.

My apologies for this coming out as such a novel, and all the links (some don't like getting spammed but I like them for reference). If you already know all about the thermostat/temp gun stuff then I'm sorry haha! it's an easy fix, probably easier than replacing that heat mat (if it really is only producing 73F floor temps). P.S. regarding your gecko's eating situation- they're probably stressed and won't eat for a little bit. It's okay! They'll get hungry soon and will eat normally. My leo has been doing this stupid thing where he'll eat half of his normal dinner and then act like he's not interested anymore (just licking the worms and turning away), so I wait a halfhour and try again. Usually he'll eat some more after that, but then again he hasn't just changed locations and such. :) Good luck!

Such a cutie!

Don't stress getting it from petco, mine both are and are super healthy. The reality is that not everyone is close to an expo or can afford the online ones. No one here judges like that, in my experience! We all just love leos :)

We waited months to name ours and its now based on their personalities. I advise the same. Its easier to remember and seems more personal than a generic name. Ours are "Serenity" (who is very calm and loves being held) and "Serendipity" (who randomly decides she likes us or hates us depending on how she woke up haha). These are shortened to Renity and Dipity. We played around with Hunter, and Buster, and even Jerry!

For set up I HIGHLY recommend a point-temperature gauge. This is the one I have but any with good reviews will do. There are ways to test it when you get it (point at ice-water, point at boiling water, ect) to make sure yours isn't a dud. These are so helpful to make sure you have a nice gradient and just way more reliable than the stick on one I have. I also now have three tanks, so it ended up being cheaper than buying the stick on one three times!

We have an automatic shipment of crickets from Flunker's Farms but its been spotty and inconsistent size and quality wise. We had one that was all bottom-feeder insects.

Invest in some calcium spray right now! It's the easiest thing to use. Just spray some dried mealworms and throw them in. It's like six bucks at petco or online and well worth not having to take a sick baby to the vet.

Last, we noticed that short and sweet interactions have gone a long way in improving our relationship with them. Take out, hold for a while, be calm, put back in. I then instantly feed them so they associate me with food hehe.

Enjoy your new family member!!!

In adult geckos, sand is probably less likely to cause impaction. However, the risk is still there. There are other problems with sand as well, it can cause shedding issues and possibly eye and respiratory issues. It's really not worth the risk, especially considering it's not really even their natural substrate.

As for the females housed together thing, yes, you can housed females together, but it's not recommended. Issues may still occur. Leos are solitary creatures and are always best when housed alone, the only benefit is human convenience. Like sand, cohabitation is another thing that's just not worth the risk.

A lot of guides and care sheets have some inaccurate information, in fact, I'd say most I've seen have something that should be changed. You really have to sort through all the information and facts and figure out what's right, there's a lot of misinformation out there and you really can't trust just one source (though as far as sources go, the care sheet in the sidebar of this sub is one of the best I've seen).

*****

Anyways, onto your original question. Not too bad, the hat's certainly... resourceful. It does look a tad cramped, can't tell what size it is from the picture but you might want to upgrade eventually. More space makes it easier to fit everything you need to in, plus extra room for the leo to roam. Space saving hides are great in the meantime, bulk-free hides (like coconut hides and paper towel rolls) and hides that fit right up against the wall are great.

Some things are harder to tell from pictures. Temperatures, particularly. If those things on the glass are the only thermometers you're using, you'll want new ones. Those are measuring ambient temperatures, and you need to measure floor temps. Use a thermometer with a probe or a temp gun. Also I can't tell for sure if you're using an under tank heater from the pictures, but a UTH is a must. Otherwise I'd just suggest that you check out the care sheet in the sidebar, maybe stick around the sub, and in general just keep learning and improving.

Theres a guide on the sidebar to the right that should cover most of the basic care requirements. It will take him some time to get used to his new environment, so its ok if he seems extra skittish for a while and uninterested in food, just keep handling to a minimum for now. They can be very timid when they are still young too. They use their tail as a fat reserve and can go a while not eating. Generally a nice plump tail is a sign of good health and they will spend most of the day sleeping anyway.

Tiles are great flooring, safe and easy to clean. You dont need a thermometer stuck to the side of the tank as the floor temperature is more important than the air temperature. The floor temp needs to be around 90 F on one side and about 75-80 on the cooler side so they can regulate their body temp if the get too warm. Above 95 is too much. They need the 90 to be able to digest their food so it is important. Grab a cheap infared one like this to check your temps with. They are super cheap, more accurate than the pet store ones, and you can spot check temps around your tank instantly. It will make your life much easier.

A 10 gallon tank is ok for now, but a 20 gallon long will suit him much better as they can be pretty active at night and will appreciate the extra floor space to explore. It also helps in achieving a heat gradient which is hard to do with something as small as a 10 gallon.

Typically the best way to heat the tank is a heating pad under the tank controlled by a thermostat to keep it at a steady temp. The heat mat should cover about 1/3 the floor of the tank. This setup is usually simpler and cheaper than lights that the stores will try to sell, more reliable temperatures too. Heating lamps arent really necessary because they are not basking animals and prefer to hide all day then come out on the warm rocks at night, but they are ok to help give hem a day/night cycle if the room is dark and you can use a regular light bulb if its cold where you live to raise the temps just a little.

What are you feeding them? You did make sure to grab the proper calciumand multivitamins right?

No problem! In case you need any recommendations, this is the thermostat I use. You can find a few cheaper options, but this one has been going strong for me for a few years now so it's my recommendation. The heat mat just plugs right into it and the probe lets you set the temperature super easily. A temp gun is also about $15 on amazon. Best of luck to you and your future leo! Sounds like they'll be well taken care of :)

The analog dial/stick-on ones are notoriously unreliable. Tbh I'm not even sure why they still make them, but go with something digital for sure.

Hygrometer wise I have used and seen several people recommend [these] (https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Humidity-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Indicator/dp/B0013BKDO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540538560&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Hygrometer&dpPl=1&dpID=516gPXAOs5L&ref=plSrch). You can also find them at most hardware stores in the garden section.
A [temperature gun] (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540538681&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=temperature+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41UpFdeJusL&ref=plSrch) is super cool and useful to have- it will measure the surface temperature of whatever you point it at, which is really nice especially for monitoring things like basking spots. They do make reptile-specific temp guns as well, but the hardware kind are significantly less expensive and function the same.

I know this is overkill to list it all out, but this is what I listed for somebody else a little while back. Yes, you're probably already doing most of it.

• Undertank heater that will give belly heat between 89f-92f on 1/3 of tank.
  Thermostat to control heater
  
• IR thermometer to do random checks of the hot side.
  
• Cold side and hot side hides. Yes, two. It needs hides that allow it to regulate its temperature while feeling safe. Place the hot side hide centered over the heat pad.
  
• Water dish: shallow and wide. This allows them to get in if they want. I've heard of some liking it. Mine has never gotten in.
  
• Moist hide: use moss or paper towels to hold moisture. Can be made from a tupperware container. Plenty of guides on youtube.
  
• Food dish: preferably slick, so that live worms can't crawl out
  
• Calcium dish: powdered calcium without d3 provided daily.
  Tank decor of your choice.
  
• Substrate: I prefer having two tank sized pieces of repticarpet so that I can swap them out for cleaning. Some people like paper towels. Others like tile. It's really down to preference.
  
  You want a digital thermostat controlling that heat pad, with the probe either between the pad and glass or right on the top side of the glass (centered on the pad). You also need to lift the tank up a bit and stick the heat pad to the glass. Airflow under the heat pad will allow it to breath and last longer.
  
  Turn off the light. Your LG is nocturnal and doesn't like the light. Turning of the light will encourage it to venture out during the day as well as at night.
  
  Here's the type of hide I like to use: http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Cave-Medium/dp/B001F3YJ9O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463847094&sr=8-2&keywords=reptile+cave

A couple of quick questions. How is her warm side heated? Under-tank heating is pretty much required, but supplemental heat from lights or a CHE can be added as needed. Be sure to monitor the temps for a couple days after adding supplemental heat, to make sure you aren't overheating your leo. You can get a lamp dimmer from Home Depot (or maybe even Wal-mart) to dial back the heat as needed.

How are you monitoring temperatures? I strongly recommend an infrared temp gun to measure surface temps rather than air temps. Especially on the warm side, surface temps are the most important--leos absorb heat through their belly to power their digestive process. As you know, insufficient surface temps will slow or halt digestion, and your leo will not eat.

How does Luna look? Is she stick thin, or a little fat? Post a picture if you can. If her weight is good, she's fine to go a week or two without food. Perhaps she doesn't need to eat as much as you're trying to feed her, and she's rejecting food because she isn't hungry? If she looks healthy enough for it, give her a dish of mealworms (don't let crickets run loose in her enclosure--they will bite her and cause infection) and otherwise don't feed her. If everything else is good, she will eventually get hungry and eat the food available.

Remember, as cold blooded animals, reptiles don't need to burn calories to maintain their body temps. Therefore, they can eat a surprisingly small amount. Growing hatchlings and juveniles actually eat far more than adults.

They require 88f minimum on the cool side, ideally 90f for proper digestion. Since they're cold blooded they rely on the temperatures in their environment to do basic metabolic functions such as digest. So I'd recommend grabbing an under tank heater, a thermostat to control it, and maybe a decent little thermometer, sounds like you're using a wall dial that can be tough to read and are always inaccurate. Getting the temperatures right is really important for keeping reptiles, otherwise they can get sick or worse quickly, but luckily once you have those temps set they're easy to maintain. Woudl recommend just double checking the link under "basic care" down on our side bar, it can fill you in on a bit more like the calcium supplements they need as well. If you have any questions let me know! I'm going to add a few links to the items I'm mentioning

https://www.reddit.com/r/leopardgeckos/comments/9qig1m/gecko_belly_ive_had_my_gecko_about_two_weeks_and/

https://www.amazon.com/Century-T7-FBA_BNQ-T7H-Thermostat-Germination/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540265142&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=reptile+thermostat&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1540265132&sr=8-6&keywords=reptile+thermometer

I mean any box would work really if the vehicle is warm, but a box that has a top that closes would be best. You don’t want an escapee in the car. Haha

What I use is a small pet carrier made for hamsters, small bird, etc. will link below. I put a hand warmer in a little bag for warmth if he wants it.

Here is Alexander in the carrier:
https://instagram.com/p/BgROASphU76/

A link to the carrier:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ASBTU/

Most people use small critter keepers but I went this route because the clear walls of the critter keeper seem to stress him out.

Heat mat is the way to go for sure, but you MUST also get a thermostat for it. Otherwise it will be too hot. Set the thermostat to keep it at 90°. The heat mat goes under the tank, definitely not in it. The heat mat has a sticky surface and you stick it to the bottom of the tank. There’s very little risk of fire. Ours is on a wood table and has been for years.

Here’s a pretty good thermostat that we use:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S

Make sure the temperature sensor is against the floor of your substrate (I recommend paper towels for the substrate. Cheap and easy) so it reads more accurately. To be extra safe get a laser thermometer to read the temp on the surface of the tank. This one is good and inexpensive:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00837ZGRY

Use it to verify that the surface temperature is about 90°

Depending on the time of year you could make such a better setup yourself for a either a little cheaper or more or less the same price. Here's a little shopping list, some points have reasons by them.

• PetCo's 20 Gal Long Aquarium
  
  • During certain times of year you'll be able to get this in a sale called the Dollar Per Gallon sale. It'll be worth-while to DM them on Twitter and ask when it'll become available for your state.
    
  • Price: $39.99 + $13.00 for the lid. Sale Price: $20.00 + $13.00 for the lid. --- $33.00
    
• 11"x11" UTH/Heat Mat.
  
  • A heat pad is crucial piece of your enclosure as it'll make it super easy for your little friend to get his stomach to the necessary temperature to digest food - (90F). for $10.00 this seems like an adequate purchase.
    
  • Price: $9.56
    
• Thermostat
  
  • A thermostat is mandatory. You will need one whether you go down the light route or the heat-mat route. You'll use the probe on this device to stop the heat mat from exceeding 90F as much higher may cause significant burns.
    
  • Price: $16.59
    
• 3 Hides. Cool Hide | Humid Hide | Hot Hide
  
  • 3 Hides is the recommended minimum. Humid hide should be half-on the heating pad in order to raise humidity. This is easily achievable with a 20 gal-long... much harder with a 10 gal.
    
  • Price: $30-50
    
• Supplements -> Multivitamin | Calcium + D3
  
  • These two supplements are mandatory. Both will last you atleast half of the reptiles life time. I ordered 500g of Calcium powder to be used between my three Geckos and I've not even touched the surface in 3 years.
    
  • Price: $25.00
    
    Decor/Plants/Bowls can be added if and when necessary. Substrate can be of your choice, as this is your sons reptile I'd avoid the loose-route for now. This brings our grand total to, roughly, $114.59 - Preshipping at the cheapest route. You can knock a few dollars off of this if you manage to find some cheaper hides and cheaper supplements. Since I'm in the UK I couldn't find the products that I'd normally use as supplements, ours are a lot cheaper - seemingly.
    
    ​
    
    If you need any more help/advice you're more than welcome to reply or PM me.

My only suggestions are to get digital thermometers with probes, one for cold side and one for the warm, because they're more accurate. We use these because they're cheap but still accurate. Also the log hide isn't very enclosed so I'd suggest modifying it to close off one end or getting something more enclosed like these. As for the humid hide, or really any hide you want to use them for, the ones you asked me about on my post are awesome for keeping in heat/humidity. The tops are removable too so they're easy to manage. Here's the link again for those.

Besides that, you're set up looks great! You're washing the repti carpet as often as you're supposed to, so you're good there too!

You could try giving him a bath! That might help. Also please avoid lights. They can eventually hurt your baby’s eyes! Only use heating pads. The pinned post on this sub goes into detail about thermostats, (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM this is the one I use) and you need one to regulate the temperature your heat pad gets to so your Leo doesn’t get too hot or cold.

(the pinned post is full of info and absolutely everything you’ll need to know/purchase to give your guy a happy and healthy life 😊)

Edit if you knew all of this already I’m super not trying to sound condescending, just trying to throw out some tips!!

Once you have a under tank heater, it will probably be warm enough that you won't need the lamp. I'd also get a thermostat, in my experience heat pads will be 10-20 degrees above where I want them depending on what substrate I'm using (With slate tile it's 95 on full blast, with paper towels/news paper it will get up to 110). You could also just use a lamp dimmer from Lowes/Home Depot attached to the UTH.

Lamps will raise the ambient temperatures more and UTHs will directly heat the ground, which is what leos need, so they're always the best choice. You'll want to get a reliable thermometer that measures ground heat. So, a digital thermometer with a probe or a temp gun. Temp guns are great and can be bought at home improvement stores (but they're cheaper online). The warm side should be around 90 and the cool side should be around 75.

Do you know their sexes? Leos can only be housed together if they're both females and very similar in size. Males will fight and males with females can breed and/or fight. Even if they are both females, I'd be very careful. Bullying can happen even with females, and sometimes it's hard to see the signs because reptiles' social cues are way different than humans. They really always do best when housed alone. If you do choose to house them together, I'd double your hides. Two cool hides, two warm hides. The more hides there are, the less chance of fighting there is.

edit: forgot to say, yes that UTH should be fine. A rule of thumb is that it should cover about a third of the bottom of the tank.

Some suggestions:

Remove waxworms. These guys are bad. They have an incredibly high fat content which makes them horrible grubs to "fatten up" a sick up to slight underweight geckos. They can cause liver disease. The worst part is leopard geckos can actually get addicted to them. They are also called "gecko crack." As a side note: They are one of the most readily available grubs at pet stores.

Handwarmers: These are incredibly unsafe for pets! Please don't suggest that. They make actual warmers for animals. Uniheat packs are cheap and reliable, offering minimum 40+ hours of heat. These are safe for insects, reptiles, even flowers! They are commonly used for shipping, and I would include this and a small fleece blanket as part of the "leopard gecko first aid kit." I have used these before and they are amazing. My Leo agrees. https://www.amazon.com/UniHeat-Shipping-Warmer-hours-pack/dp/B00ANPY5TY

Geckos should be quarantined for a minimum 60 -90 days before another is purchased (unless they are a rescue and the owner had 2 or more geckos) This way you won't accidentally contaminate a gecko you already have (like changing out hides, tile, etc)

If the geckos aren't eating from bowls, try clear ones. You can find a set of clear candle holders (that do not come with a candle) at dollar stores.

I'd lastly like to suggest the jump start thermostat as it is also very good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511019833&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=jump+start+thermostat&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIwcVuXPL&ref=plSrch

I hope you consider these suggestions. c:

Since everyone covered everything else pretty thoroughly, yeah he should definitely be eating more than 3-4 insects a week as an adult. Also if you haven't been doing it, you should remove any uneaten crickets from the tank after 15-20 minutes. Crickets can hurt your gecko.

Is he still pooping? Have you seen any fresh poop? My guess is also impaction or parasites as the other user said. Especially if he's losing weight rapidly. Definitely a vet visit.

I would recommend getting a temperature gun to check your temps and make sure they're okay as well. They're only like 10-15$ and they can be a life saver! I use this thermostat for all my heating pads. For substrate, paper towels, tile, and (my personal favorite) non-adhesive shelf liner all make for a safe flooring for your gecko. :)

For hides, if you're in a pinch or don't want to spend a ton of money I've seen people use boxes, cut holes in tupperware, etc. Doesn't have to be fancy, geckos aren't that picky. The moist hide should be half on the heating pad btw! Wet + cold = bad for leos.

1. untreated slate tiles are probably best and easiest, paper towel works too.
   
   
2. thermostat with a probe. i use this one. the uth should cover 1/3 of the tank underneath the glass.
   
   
3. it should be above the UTH (along with a dry warm hide,) so the warm side.
   
   
4. variety is key. crickets and mealworms are fine as long as you provide belly heat, proper gutload, and adequate dusting. waxworms are junk food, use them for treats only. leos can also eat butterworms, hornworms, dubia roaches, silkworms, and superworms. the most important parts here are: variety, gutload, and vitamin/calcium dusting.

I know a lot of people have commented, but if you're not using supplementation, start using ReptiCalcium w/D3 and w/out D3 by dusting his food each meal. If you are, please take him in for a checkup, he looks very underweight and could have something like parasites. Action sooner rather than later could extend the life of your pet :)

I personally love this thermostat. It's affordable, and works great with an easy-to-read digital format and it's also easy to program.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got a young Leopard Gecko about a week and a half ago. He was eating consistently up until 3 days ago. I have him in a 30 inch 20 gallon tank with a Zoo-Med under tank heater + coconut fiber.
I was using a red 100 watt heat light for the first week, but realized that was probably overkill. I now have a 12 watt white UVB light in there, but the temperatures haven't managed to stay consistent like they had. I think that's why he's not eating?

I purchased a heat mat thermostat ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBGWMV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_poPIDb1DAT35P ) but despite setting it to 90-94, I haven't gotten a temperature reading above 80 Fahrenheit. The day after I made the change, he started ignoring any mealworms or crickets I stuck in his tank.

Should I buy a new thermostat or higher output white light? Does he just need more time to adjust? His tail is thinning a bit and it has me worried. Thank you guys in advanced, this is my first lizard and I want to make sure it has the best life it can

If you get a new UTH, maybe a more powerful one, you can get a lamp dimmer like this one. That, along with a thermometer inside the tank, will let you control the heat accurately and pretty easily. It's what I use for my UTH.

If you still need a little more for the ambient air temp, you can get a red bulb and a clamp lamp for fairly cheap. This one comes with a dimmer for the bulb.

So the first thing I would do is to ditch the sand. You can use paper towels for now and get ceramic tiles cut to size whenever you have the time.

The cage is a bit small (looks like a ten gallon?), which won't kill him, but he would appreciate the walking space of a twenty gallon long tank.

Heat lamps are hard to regulate and break often. A good long term solution would be to buy an under tank heater and a thermostat to control it. You absolutely must have a thermostat with a heat mat, or your lizard would be in danger of a serious burn! I've never had either a heat mat or a thermostat break and I've been using them for years.

This is a great cheap thermostat : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z51mybBXCYQKR

And a heat pad: Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D71mybNN28CJW

If you choose to order them I would toss in a couple digital thermometers with probes to monitor the hot and cold sides. They should be super cheap

I would also add another hide on the cool side. You want at very least two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cold. You can use anything from a small cardboard box to a fancy reptile hide. If he has problems shedding in the future you can also add in a "humid hide" which in this case would be a small Tupperware with a hole cut out and damp moss or paper towels in it

I have the Zoo Med Small UTH and thermostat on my 20 gal long tank 12"W x 30"L and the warm area is only about 6" around the center of the mat. I plan to add a second of the same mat next to it. I came from a 10 gal tank 10"W x 20"L and the small mat would heat about 80% of the tank to my warm temp target (too much). If I had the larger tank to start I would have gotten the med pad. If you don't have a thermostat I would definitely recommend it. I used aluminum duct tape to re-attach the pad which worked well.
EDIT: added some links

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519058643&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+start+thermostats

This is a cheaper thermostat, you plug the heat mat into it and put the probe on the floor inside the warm hide set to the right temps. If you have amazon prime I would unplug the heat mat to keep your gecko safe. Another great item to get would be a laser thermometer to monitor floor temps because sometimes those thermostats can be a bit off.

You don't really need a block. Most people use the calcium powder (Also look into versions without vitamin D3, buy both with and without) that you can find at nearly any store. Pet stores certainly will have it, but WalMart near my house has it as well, even though the reptile/fish selection is limited to one half an aisle. Also put some of the calcium without D3 in a little dish (I use a milk jug lid) and they'll take part if they feel like they need more calcium.

Calcium Without D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper)

Non Add-On Item

Calcium With D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper but a lot smaller)



Non Add-On Item

Also look into a separate vitamin.

This will give you the options necessary for size and with/without D3.

Of course! I went through a few, but this is the one from my post (and the best one I've bought so far): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dg4kDb8283C81

Wyze Cam v2 1080p HD Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Free Cloud, for iOS and Android (US Version) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JTTwCbYM3C7S1

ok thank you :-) and
im using these

Zoo Med Reptile Shelter 3 in 1 Cave, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNZTAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_So4MAbV02AC1G

Exo Terra Gecko Cave for Reptiles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

im using these 2 hides for my humid hides the dark rock seems like it will hold it fine but im not sure about the lighter rock haha it has a sorta deep base

Assuming your tank dimensions are 48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 16 7/8 (L x W x H), you’ll be one that is as close to 16 x 12 as possible.

This Fluker’s brand is $26 and 17 x 11:
Fluker's Heat Mat for Reptiles and Small Animals, Large (17 x 11 Inches, 20 watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164PW9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQHQBb6SYFDG4

This one is a bit cheaper at $22 and 20 x 8:
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat Mats, Large, 24 Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z5O9IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPHQBbKV4TKVP

Also, don’t forget a regulator so you don’t overcook your Leo! They are absolutely necessary in my opinion. This is the one I have personally:
Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gMvIYsOQnXKH1


These are not affiliate links; I’m not being paid. We also have an amazing guide pinned to the top of this subreddit that you should check to make sure you’re not missing anything.

Tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008N9LRCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_2Z3IzbXNKXXCD

Thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_M13IzbSNVACSY

Moist Hide
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNZTAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_G23Izb27S2F7M

Heater
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_f33Izb1KJACXG

The warm and cool hides are from petsmart

The food/water cactus dish is also from petsmart

The tiles are from Lowes


Hope that helps!

If you get an under the tank heating pad (UTH), you can also get a thermostat to plug the heating pad into that you can set to a certain temperature and it will turn off the heating pad when it gets warm enough. Here is the thermostat I got and it comes with a wire you stick into the tank to monitor the heat. Really useful for keeping the heat consistent.

I own two leos and ones blind so I've learned quite a bit. Plus mine are both in diy 3×2×2 cage but i didnt need to make them so tall lol. I suggest buying this for the moist hide ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC/?coliid=I9JSZC9ASFTA2&colid=2MBRCC0QH2E8J&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ) as well as a bag of sphagnum moss and another hide like the one you already have as soon as possible and you should be good until you add plants and rocks for enrichment. Also with the calcium dish i suggest this bowl as its what i have in both my girls cages ( https://www.etsy.com/listing/559423371/stroodies-calcium-dish-for-leopard?ref=pla_similar_listing_bot-2&frs=1 ) and its cheap.

Sure! The bulb I use 13 W Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact Fluorescent: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472851211&sr=8-1&keywords=exo+terra+uvb+100

And a 5.5 inch dome lamp, the brand doesn't matter. This fluker's one is nice though cause it has a dimmable switch! https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1472855742&sr=8-18&keywords=reptile+lamp

Yes, these are far more precise. You can get a very accurate reading of the surface tem0 so exactly what your leo will be touching. Very useful

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CVHIJDK/ref=asc_df_B00CVHIJDK5092658/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00CVHIJDK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130978684&hvpos=1o12&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5427555998887861370&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030005&hvtargid=pla-314644480709

For a cheap thermostat, I recommend this one. It will shut the heat pad off if it gets too hot to avoid burns, and turn it on if it's too cold. Though it's not the best option, you should save up for a better thermostat like a Herpstat.

Your tank is also very small, I would upgrade it to a 20 gallon when you get the chance. It's probably okay for now since your leo is so small, but the next time Petco has their $1/gallon sale I would grab a 20.

I've found Repticarpet gets messy quickly, especially when your gecko goes for a dip in their calcium dish and tracks it everywhere. I personally use non adhesive shelf liner for the bottom of my tank and add a few stones from the pet store for texture for my little one to run around upon.

I suggest using a temperature gauge to make sure the heat mat doesn't burn them. I like to get them for cheap. I've bought 6 and have loved them all. You typically stick the probe between the mat and the glass, and set the temperature accordingly. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ELKYDbN9JM51K is the one I use

I also use sphagnum moss in the moist hide as it holds humidity better, but paper towels will get the job done so long as you're properly moistening them.

I recommend the Flukers heat mat. It's non adhesive, so you'll want to purchase HVAC tape. This is tape that can be found at most hardware stores. It is made out of adhesive and aluminum foil, so it can easily handle the high temperatures. you can find it in the plumbing section. I've used the heat mats that come with the stickiness on them only to bend and break them when trying to deep clean the tank (I'm not gentle), so this will let you avoid having to replace them as often.

As it's winter, if you find their ambient air falling low, you can always invest in a ceramic heat emitter.

I also suggest using a digital thermometer to gauge the temperature of the air within the tank. You can find these online anywhere between 10 dollars and 100. I have a simple one and it's done the job. This has also helped me with ensuring that I have the heat mat at the right temperature, in case some heat gets lost through the glass and I have to raise the temperatures using the thermometer.

As someone else has said, it's better to avoid loose substrate when at all possible, such as sand or dirt, especially if you're just starting out. This will minimize risk of impaction.

And If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out. C:

i prefer this one, it works amazing https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

These are fantastic. I use them for 4 python enclosures and one for my leo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1464796556&sr=1&keywords=thermostat

My apologies! Using this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010GFADNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Actually saw it as a recommendation on this sub. The probe is suspended appx 2 mm from the carpet. I'm conflicted on whether it's too cold or not, as she spends a lot of time hanging out on top of her hide when I crank it up to 85 degrees. When I first got her years ago, before I found this sub, the fear I had read online was about burning/scalding their stomachs with UTH.

Heat gun is on the list, but I was contemplating buying a 20 gal tank first - I've been moving a lot lately, but we'll be pretty stable for the next 5 years and it's about time she had more space.

Exo Terra Gecko Cave https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the hide I mentioned in my previous comment, and I love it. It's heavy and doesn't feel cheap at all, and is very smooth inside.

https://www.universalrocks.com/fish/backgrounds/ledge-style/24x12-ledge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=twister_B00UKU5Z14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.etsy.com/listing/484539657/corner-pet-hammock-brown-hues-with-hooks?ref=shop_home_active_16

These three are my favorite purchases. The hammock in particular because I couldn't find any other ones that were not green.

I ordered mine off amazon. My leos actually really like it too! I’m always refilling their little calcium dishes.

This is probably my favorite tool for measuring temperatures in any location in your terrarium. It's extremely accurate for surface temperatures and ambient temperatures.

Is there cheap tile I can buy on amazon that would work? I am on amazon, I will look for some.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Achim-Home-Furnishings-FTVWD23120-Adhesive/dp/B01E1NI5WQ/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tile+floor+vinyl&qid=1550769127&s=gateway&sr=8-7#CustomerImages

I just got this in combination with my mat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S?keywords=hydrofarm%20mtprtc%20digital%20thermostat%5D&pc_redir=T1&qid=1453335881&sr=8-1

Read good reviews on another leopard forum.

Here's a list of everything I bought to set up, excluding decoration (you can go as expensive or as cheap as you would like in that department):

20 gallon tank - $32.99

Top for the tank $25.28

Heat Mat - $17.46

Dimmer for the Heat Mat (to control temperature) - $12.75

Tile - $0.88/each x 10 = $8.80

Calcium with D3 (for dusting food) - $8.69

Calcium without D3 - $5.41

Digital Thermometer - $6.99

Hygrometer (to measure humidity) - $6.99

And, of course, the gecko - ~$30.00


Total: $155.36

Then, you'll still need to buy or make hides and buy crickets/kricket keeper/food for the crickets and/or mealworms/food for the mealworms.


Disclaimer: I may be forgetting something, I'm not at home right now.

Okay. You don’t need any lights, I was just making sure you didn’t have any. Temp on the warm side should stay around 90 F. If you don’t have a thermostat for your uth, you need to get one. I have this one: (https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S). You should also get a temp gun.

As far as hides go, you should have at least 3, one hot, one cool, and a moist hide. Even if they aren’t shedding, it’s good to keep one out at all times. Make sure he isn’t on loose substrate, I prefer tile or paper towel. And you should keep a pure calcium supplement out at all times. Just put some in a milk cap.

Here is my set up: https://imgur.com/a/lQAeCac

It’s very plain and I’m actually going to be buying some more stuff to put in soon, but it can give you an idea of the basic necessities.

The heat mat is preferred, since leopard geckos absorb heat for digestion thru their tummies only. For all my tanks i use the zoo med reptitherm heat pads. You will want one that takes up between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. I hook all mine up to one of these... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s9TUCb1WZ3HE7 i suggest also buying the heat pad off amazon as well, you will pay AT LEAST double if you buy at a brick and mortar store. As for the liner i just go to walmart and buy my liner there in the kitchen section.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2

My gecko seems to like this one a lot .

You can get a regulator that has a probe that reads your ground temp, and then will switch your heat pad on/off when needed.

This one, and this one are both recommended in the beginner's guide. I personally have the second link and haven't had any troubles so far.

This is the thermostat I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TbOBDbQPSF1RG

I saw it recommended on a thread here, so hopefully it’s okay! If need be I’ll go up to something fancier, but most people seem to use something along those lines?

This is the thermostat I own.

You simply plug the heat pad into the thermostat and set the temperature. The thermostat will turn the heat pad on until set heat is reached, then turn it off after a bit. When the temperature drops back down, it will turn it back up. Another good thing to own is a heat gun to verify floor temps and adjust the stat if necessary. Also, like most technologies, thermostats can and will eventually fail. That's why it's important to check the temp everyday even when using a thermostat, to ensure it functions properly. I've had a friend use lower quality stats that failed and sadly led to the death 10 of his reptiles. Better safe than sorry.

I have that under tank heater in my Amazon cart, along with <a href="Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Infrared Thermometer, Yellow/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Otgsxb4YYJ4SV"> this temp gun</a>.

I don't know their sexes yet, I haven't even got a pic of them yet bc I didn't want to stress them out more.

Definitely don't want her anywhere near sand, like all of us here have said. Sand can't pass through leos so once it's in there it's not coming out the poop chute, it's just gonna keep accumulating leading to death.

Seems to me you got one of those starter reptile kits from pet chain stores (petco, petsmart etc). The stuff that comes with it usually is not what you want for your reptile. Geckos can see red light so do not use it during night time - you want to simulate day/night cycles for your leo. Something like a UVB 2.0 bulb will do, I have mine turned on automatically at 7am and turns off at 7pm for a day/night cycle.

Heating pads and a controller (example) are your bread and butter. Leos need 90-95 belly heat to digest their food (they don't bask, so lamps aren't needed - only day/night cycles matter). The controller is required to keep a stable 90-95 temperature for your leo to lay on since heating pads reach upwards of 150f that burns the poor thing if left unregulated via a controller.

I use eco-earth as well in my gecko cave but that stuff dries out really fast for me. Also, my geck likes to digs and kick all the eco earth out of the cave and make a big mess >.<

Assuming you have an UTH, purchase a thermostat to control the temp output. I found mine on amazon. I use something along the lines of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417937081&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

If you're using a bulb, you can try and move it farther from the tank to disperse the heat a bit, but I'm guessing you have an under tank heater from the way you describe your problem. Hope this helps!

I got it from my local mom and pop pet store. It is available on amazon though ... https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Cave-Medium/dp/B001F3YJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481306407&sr=8-1&keywords=lizard+hide

Yup! It's what I've always used for my ball python and my leopard gecko. No danger, and it makes it easy to clean up when needed.

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) thermostat with [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQCL4/ref=yo_ii_pd_dx_mr_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002AQCL4&pd_rd_r=88CEX0FBXXWZ3QCAD9W1&pd_rd_w=5lJoC&pd_rd_wg=kpklX&psc=1&refRID=E59X49A1JSF7RM38FNGH) heat mat.

Heat mats and a good temperature control(I highly suggest this one) are necessary. Keep one side of the tank around 90-92 in the day and a couple degrees cooler in the night and keep the other side unheated. Have one "hide" spot in the unheated side, one in the heated side, and a moist one in the heated side as well for use in shedding. For heat mats I use zoo-med brand though there may be better ones- just slap one or two under the side you want to heat. Geckos hate sunlight and as an extension hate heat lamps. Just for your reference, a uth is an under-tank heater. If you are using wood chips as a substrate, I would suggest tiles or "reptile carpet" instead.

We have an under tank heater with thermostat on the way from amazon and this for moist hide will be on the left maybe might move stuff around a bit and want to get more of the brown for that desert look

Here is the desktop version of your link

Hydrofarm MTPRTC Controller Thermostat for Heat Mats Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Jump Start Digital, 9-by-19-1/2-Inch, Black Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OicvDbNMZZHEN

Do you have a thermostat?

I have this one and it's set to 91F, so my temperature never goes below 89F

THIS

iPower 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-j6ZCbDTX6S1R

You should NEVER use an undertank heater without a thermostat. Ever.
Here are a couple reasonably-priced thermostats you can use to regulate your heat mat's temperature. This is essential. Don't play low ball on an animal's life.

Hydrofarm Digital Thermostat

Zilla temperature controller

I think it's your thermostat. This is what I use and the the temp stays between 89 and 92 degrees on the hot hide https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/