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I doubt it. However, you could run an E14 to E26 adapter, something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Candelabra-Adapter-Converter-Convert-Chandelier/dp/B013QO15GE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K572MMASN34RDB1AZ692

I have a couple lamps (though they're E12, not E14, but the concept is the same) and use an adapter. They work great. They are not complex adapters and likely doesn't matter what brand you go with, as they're just connecting copper to copper. Only things you'd have to make sure of:

• wattage (though likely not a problem, as I think the color 1000/a19 bulbs are only 11w)
  
• clearance (as you'd be fitting a larger bulb in a potentially small space. the mini's might be a better option)
  
• airflow (fitting a larger bulb into a potentially smaller space might not leave enough room for the heat to dissipate)
  
• directionality (the color 1000s and similar large form factors are designed to point more upwards, instead of in all directions. the minis do a better job at dispersing color outwards, with the caveat of lower lumen output)
  
  Hope that helps.

i think it looks ok but is a waste of the Z (normally priced around 80-90), which is much better utilized as accent lighting in crevices, behind TVs, under cabinets etc.

i have this floor lamp, which has 2 sockets for your bulbs. i actually went with a lifx a19 (a60 in europe i'm guessing from the looks of it) on top, and a flickering flame bulb on the bottom, since it sits relatively close to our fireplace and the visuals make it look like it's another source of gentle heat.

the mini isn't too perceptibly dimmer than the a19, imo. we run over 45 bulbs+strips in our house from lifx and none of them on 100% brightness. if you're gonna run the bulbs at peak brightness for illumination, then a60 would be the obvious choice for you as it puts out more lumens...but if you're using the floor lamp for reading/atmosphere then the mini would suffice.

i'll try and get your some pictures when i'm home much later today if interested.

>I'd like to get uniform lighting reflecting on the ceiling, avoiding noticeable brighter areas.

just saw this part. it doesn't really matter which one you go with in that case, as long as you get the same ones. some people have complained that the mini and the a19/a60 are not color-uniform. the whites look a bit different for some, and all colors look slightly off for others. i have not had this experience personally because my minis are all outside of the house by exit doors...but that's something you'd want to keep in mind.

The power supply on mine is rated at 24 Volts at 30 Watts (which equals 1.25 Amps). It has a pretty standard power connector on the end that plugs into the controller.

This can supply up to 10x 1 metre sections at maximum brightness, and the controller.

So you could probably achieve what you want with a battery pack of 16x rechargeable 1.5 volt AA batteries (e.g. Eneloop AAs which hold around 2500mA/hour each), which would give you 2 hours of power (2.5A/h / 1.25 hours = 2) at maximum brightness across 10x 1m sections.

You don't say how long your LIFX Z strip would need to be, or what colours you intend to use, but for example just having it on all red (the most efficient colour) uses less power than having them on certain whites (where both the white LEDs and RGB LEDs are lit). It stands to reason if you are only using 5 sections then you would get around 4 hours from the battery pack at maximum brightness.

Note that rechargeable batteries often drop to around 1.2 volts under load, so you may need 20 AA batteries. Rechargeable are preferable to disposable batteries as they keep a reasonably constant voltage throughout their discharge cycle, then the voltage drops off quickly at the end. Disposable batteries drop off in a more linear manner, so they'll drop from 1.5V down to 0V over that same period... so after an hour of use they may be only giving out, say, 1V each - that's a problem.

You can get battery packs that hold a number of AA batteries, like this one that holds 8 https://www.amazon.co.uk/HALJIA-Battery-Holder-Stack-Double/dp/B06Y1LGB42/ and you can just wire multiples of those, or different sizes, in series to get the voltage you need. For example two of those in series will give you 16 batteries in series. You could add a 4 one too to give you 20.

OK - so now you have a powered up LIFX Z. But remember you need it to connect to a WiFi network, that's on the same SSID as your phone (if you're controlling it from there).

Would I be able to use this to control a non-smart device like a window fan that is operable with a remote control. I just would like to be able to turn it on and off. I know I can use a smart plug to turn the fan off, but a smart plug isn't able to turn it back on. For reference, this is the fan I'm trying to make into a "smart fan" with the flic hub: https://www.amazon.com/Bionaire-Reversible-Airflow-Window-Control/dp/B000065DKJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496455850&sr=8-3&keywords=window+fan

I didn't know this. I must have been absolutely lucky then. The ones I bought say they are 100 watts and 1600 lumens and 5000K. I bought them because they are daylight and I read that was brighter than soft white or bright white.

Is there a chart or formula for finding out what color temperature would constitute a bright white output like I'm getting with my Sylvania?

This is a link to what I bought that's really bright (and I'm trying to see what Hue and Lifx has that's comparable)

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ULTRA-100W-Light-Dimmable/dp/B01B0M9V2O

I have had success with [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EIDDQCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 strips). I have 2 in between 3 Lifx z strips. But like everyone is saying, be very careful. Both because they don't fit exactly and you void your warranty once you intro non Lifx made products into the mix. When connecting, don't be too forceful.it's all about technique. also, make sure these strips are all continuously oriented across the entire loop. there's an "up", and a "down" orientation to these strips. i marked mine to help with consistency. once all put together, these will work beautifully.

Correct.

My connectivity issues all disappeared when I moved from a Netgear Night Hawk router with Shibby's Tomato Firmware to an Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX and UniFi AP AC Pro.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Again, took a bit to get up and running but once I did -- I'll never go back to consumer networking gear. The LIFX bulb connections have been rock-solid ever since that move... In fact, 3 of the top 5 devices with the most "connectivity uptime" are LIFX bulbs. The other 2 being the Nest Protects. 😊

When I disconnect the last strip I get no lights anywhere. To test what may have happened I also tried connecting a completely new light strip to the power supply and controller but this also yielded no light. I am assuming this is because I fried the controller and/or power supply. Hopefully the actual strips are still functional but time will tell. I have purchased a new 'starter kit' from the Best Buy and will be testing the viability of a run of my intended length soon (before actually mounting any wires in my shelves). I am also going to try to use some Hualand extension cables to see if they will be more stable than my homemade extensions with soldered connections. My basic plan is to run eight 3.3 foot LIFX strips with a 6.6 foot Hualand in between each strip to see if the power supply and controller can handle the voltage drop that will result from this kind of run. I am cautiously optimistic that this approach will at least determine one way of the other if LIFX strips will be able to do what I want them to before I start running cables and making connections in tight spaces behind and under shelves. Will try to update this post once I have tested this out.

It’s a huge 75in tv but without cutting the strips the two pieces would hangover the side. So I bought this connector and just made a “v” out of it. Came out ok, not perfect but I’m happy with it.

Flexible Corner Connector for LIFX Z Lightstrips (2 in/50 mm, 4 Pack, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W6SD7WN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F6wHDb1MJ47KA

For my Zstrip I used these clear holiday light clips to keep it held down, it works phenomenally and the strip perfectly fits through the hook. None of them have fallen off or anything, at least not yet, and it’s been holding it down for months now. Command 3M Clear Mini Light Clips

I use one of these through smarthings works great. Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3gW4Cb02M57JK

Just this cheap one on amazon, has worked perfectly!!

TP-Link N450 Wireless Wi-Fi Router, Up to 450Mbps (TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MnNZAbPSGVGJN

I'd go with the following due to their ease of use & all the expandability doors that will open as a result:

• Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) $28 @ Amazon - I own this & have 2 dogs. Read the directions & mount it at the appropriate height & have never had the dogs trigger.
  
• Samsung SmartThings Hub, 2nd Generation - $99 @ Amazon

late reply, but, I'm concerned that it wouldn't work on something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00067YOJ0 because of the cover?

Mostly concerned about there not being enough room, Lifx bulbs are huge.

The ultimate question, what style lamp shade do you have?

Any fabric or colored shade will require the A60 (1100lm). I can't speak to a splitter, but I have colored shades, and the mini's just don't cut it.

As for light diffusing, I wouldn't worry about it at all, I have an A60(1100lm) in one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Mainstays-71-Floor-Lamp-Black/dp/B00JCUQUD0

and it works like a normal bulb.

I used to get frequent disconnects with my Netgear R6300.

Now I'm using an Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X as my router, with the R6300 demoted to WAP duty, and it's the best network I've ever had. I still get a random bulb disconnect once every week or two, but that's nothing compared to how it was before, and they always reconnect as soon as I turn them off and back on.

I use this in each of my bathrooms to turn on/off the lights and fans. Comes on instantly when they see motion.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCYD9PC

You can also buy Wink hub

http://www.amazon.com/Wink-PWHUB-WH17-Connected-Home-Hub/dp/B00PV6GAI4/

or SmartThings hub

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE/

along with a motion sensor. You can then set it up to turn on/off when you enter/leave your house and/or enter/leave a room. You can even set it up to slowly turn on the lights in your bedroom at a certain time to help wake up. There might be a delay with Wink or Smarthings of up to 5 seconds.

Edit: Just noticed you mentioned false positives with pets and motion detection. You should be able to set the motion detection levels so that your pets don't activate the motion sensor. I have a motion sensor for my alarm and it's set enough so that it sees me move, but not my dogs. I haven't had the motion sensors for my lights in the bathrooms go off from the dogs, but my dogs don't go into any of the bathrooms much.

I bought some of these based on another post (sorry I forget the poster).
https://www.amazon.com/TronicsPros-Extension-Connector-Flexible-Adapter/dp/B01EIDDQCS/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1520053634&sr=8-20&keywords=Litaelek+2

They have been great. I’ve only used the 1m but they still work if setup with multiple extensions connected together.