(Part 2) Best products from r/lockpicking

Ahh, I’m picking up what you’re putting down now. I’m finding out this is the kind of thing where you could spend a fortune, or try to stay within a regular working persons budget. Being the latter myself I have to figure out what I’m going to spend money on each paycheck. The re-key-able feature is nice, and as far as making your own pins I was directed here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H1C4888?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app
Other than American and Master lock which use a smaller pin you can make your own pins with this. I haven’t tried it yet, as I’ve just gotten my Dremel, but plan on making challenge locks, etc...

So far I’ve favored padlocks, but I’d like to get into all aspects of locksport, sadly though I’m not independently wealthy, so I have just figured out what I can afford, and what I have access to. I’ve been disassembling, and reassembling padlocks for a few days now, and its fantastic! Very rewarding, but also very detailed work. Almost like watchmaking, but less parts.

Thank you for the heads up on the 302/304 steel! I’m a noob as well, but would like to start making my own picks, etc... I was very impressed with yours, and am curious what bits, or tools were all involved in your process? I’m sure there’s more than one way to skin a cat, as it were, but I like hearing about everyone’s preferences until I find my own. But when it comes time for the belt challenge to make your own tools you’re gonna have it in the bag, my friend!!

Lastly, I am ready for my green belt, but am having issues with the whole video aspect of the challenge. Either bribing a friend to record me on my phone, or finding an apparatus to hold it in place seem like my best options at the moment. I’m not completely tech savvy, but I do know a bit about things. Anyway, curious if you’ve figured out how you’re going to do video for green belt, and forward. I’m thinking about investing in a cheapo digital cam, or seeing if a family member has an old one I can “borrow” ;)

Edit: forgot to ask, did you buy blanks from Peterson’s, or are you using hacksaw blades? Or something altogether different?

Here are a few suggestions:

1. Instead of holding your dremel by hand, toss it into your hobby vise. This gives you greater control over how much material you remove and where.
   
   
2. Using the utility blade to give you a starting point to make a transition is a good idea, but it isn't easy to get a positive grip on the spinning brass. It can and does slip. A razor saw is ideal for this and you can make some nice serrations with it too.
   
   
3. I too have experienced running out of room on the pin because it is too close to the chuck. When you are that close, you can only make an outward bevel because the second you try to tip it in, you start filing down the chuck instead. Using old pins is a great way to level up on your technique. You can pick up some brass rod stock and cut each one into 3rds and backup the rod into the dremel as far as it goes and that will stabilize the brass and give you plenty of material to pull out and away from the chuck.
   
   
4. The quick change dremel chuck works great when you have a bunch of different sized bits to change out. However, on brass it tends to leave unwanted dents with the three prongs. The dremel collet set will not leave those marks. It is a cheap set and it is made from aluminum but I haven't had one break on me yet.
   
   I love, Love, LOVE jewelry files for shaping my pins! You can futz around with the different shapes to get some cool transitions. To polish off my pins and when I want to remove burrs from the final shapes, I cut my sandpaper into strips and glued it onto a popsicle stick. This lets me get up in there and also works great when you just need to remove a little more material. You can also wrap a little of the sandpaper over the edge and use that outside corner to push into the brass to make a tight inside corner on the brass. Here is a preview of some of the evil.

There is a ton of info in the sidebar. The wiki is your friend on free materials.

I highly recommend Lockpicking - Detail Overkill. The Author /u/derpserf used to poke his head in this sub a while back. Really in depth shit. (he would want me to use an expletive)

As far as printed media, I am a huge fan of Deviant Ollam. (Disclaimer: I have hung out with him at Defcon and have a bit of a man crush). He is a super nice guy who is very passionate about teaching what he loves to do. His two books (one about [picking and how locks operate(http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Lock-Picking-Second-Edition/dp/1597499897) and another on impressioning & bypass methods) are awesome.

Hope that helps.

Edit: added links

Yeah, I'm trying to save money on it too. What padlock brand/model are you disassembling? Field stripping this Kwikset is the first thing I did when I got it. Very nice to gain that familiarity with the workings before attacking it.

I went about making the picks by printing a Romstar template, matching scale to the ruler in inches on the print-out. Cut out the desired tools and glued them each to a ~5" long section of feeler stock (1/2" wide x 0.02" thick, meant for testing tolerances in machine shops and production lines. 0.02-0.025" is supposed to be the thickness for North American keyways.)

After glue drying, I clamped the feeler stock in a horizontal position in this small vice, and then used EZ Lock Metal Cut-off wheels @~30k RPM to generate a rough shape (Cat#EZ456, should be able to find for $2 per wheel or less, or even cheaper off-brand products). The slower you go and the less you remove at a time, the longer your wheel will last and the less likely you are to overheat the steel (which can cause weaknesses). I used long, light strokes down the whole 5" of feeler for every pass, removing sub-millimeter quantities each time.

I left about 0.5mm of the white paper surrounding the printed tool template, so that I could more cautiously produce the final tool shape with an aluminum oxide grinding wheel (Dremel 952,932,etc). I clamped the Dremel 4300 down to the counter with the bit hanging over the sink, and then hand-held the tool while using the length of the grinding wheel to remove some of the mountains and valley produced by the very thin metal cutting wheel. Holding the pick while leaving the Dremel clamped made it easy to affect how much metal was being removed with small changes in force applied. I used the corners of the grinding wheel to remove away the final material around the snake/hook/half-diamond business end. The same wheel was then used to remove rough spots and round out the edges.

Finishing used some 240 grit sand paper and then a felt buffing wheel with abrasive compound. All these Dremel items came in this Dremel 4300 kit I was gifted a while back. I have a feeling a bench grinder will do a much faster, cleaner job -- but we've all got to start somewhere! :-D

Edit: I'm in the same situation with the recording. Still have to get my white belt yet though! :-D I'll have to figure out a good spot for my phone, or maybe use my webcam. I agree on the cam, never hurts to have a cheap Logitech cam around.

I have to assume the cost of a set of Best locks can be offset either by getting a bulk/commercial account deal of some kind, or simply through the interchangeability of the cores meaning the maintenance costs offset very quickly compared to having to fully replace entire less expensive locks to replace a key.

But if you only need one padlock for normal security usage, it can be kinda hard to justify costs like that. The larger all-steel American padlocks tend to be very good value, but I feel like I should give a shout-out to the A5360 it's slightly pricier but has a fully shrouded shackle, something I consider a very valuable security feature.

Also, the Abus Rock is a comparably priced and very similar padlock with a slightly better core in it.

Awesome job!

Not to dimish the feeling of success at all, because I distinctly remember the feeling of popping that first lock but-- I would recommend trying some more advanced locks soon. The Master 3 can literally be picked with a zip tie. While it can be a good learning tool, it's probably more beneficial to move to something like this

One idea I had for this is to use epoxie sculpt. It's a two part solid that you combine into a clay you can sculpt. It becomes hard as a rock after about a 30 minute working time or something like that. Using water can help smooth the surface.

I was thinking about trying this on a pick just to see if it would hold up to use since it'd be a really fast, easy way to get a completely comfortable grip molded to your hand and how YOU hold a pick.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013UDWXI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Congrats mate

If you want a suggestion for a lock that in my experience has AMAZING feel, try out this lock:

https://www.amazon.com/ACE-PADLOCK-hardened-steel-chrome/dp/B000H5SLVS/

For whatever reason, the one I have has the best spools I've ever felt (3 of them) as well as a serrated and standard pin, all of which give a ton of feedback.

I would recommend getting a lot of different models of locks and getting a couple of each. This gives you a couple of different key biddings for each lock in case one is particularly easy or hard and also lets you practice on many models of locks so you don't just get really good at opening one particular model. Here are the models I have and would happily recommend with included links of where I bought mine. Feel free to shop around for better deals or shorter delivery times (specifically allpadlocks.com has great prices but they are NOT fast). If you order 2 of everything on this list it comes out to ~$120. If you're going to trim something I would probably start without the 72/40 and 1105's and add those later once you have built up your skill level (plus the 1100 series has a long lead time right now because of component shortages)

Yellow belt:

• Brinks brass padlock
  
• Master 140
  
• Master 4140
  
  Orange Belt:
  
  
• Abus 55/40
  
• Master 570
  
• Master 4150
  
  Green Belt:
  
  
• Abus 72/40
  
• Master 410
  
  Blue Belt:
  
  
• American 1105

Aluminum isn't a good material for security. A corrosive area , LOTO yes... but you can cut it with a jr. Hack saw. If you want something that is the best bang for your buck then you want something like this. It has a full 6 pin KIK cylinder and anti drill pins and a spinning plate. Is does have a pretty thick shackle though.


https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-2-5-Inch-Hardened-Security/dp/B001V5IYSS?th=1&psc=1

This is what I would put on my locker. if Walmart was out of masterlocks.

In order from my progression:

Master 140

Brinks

Abus

American

Now it's a fairly large jump from brinks to abus so I recommend getting a few more brinks and masters first. Just get a different model with "higher" security every time until you think you are up for it.

I pulled these links off amazon for pictures and whatnot, I'm sure you can get a better deal anywhere so do some searching before you buy.

Edit: Forgot to mention the helpful sidebar!

• Practical Lockpicking - highly recommended, covers almost everything
  
  
• Keys to the Kingdom - great book on impressioning
  
  
• Complete Book of Locksmithing - highly recommended
  
  
• Locks Safes & Security - If you want to go off the deep end
  
  These books combined with the eBooks / resources in the stickied post will keep you busy for the next 10 years or so.

For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.

The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.

Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.

Good luck!

I just finished The Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing by Bill Phillips and was favorably impressed. To the layperson, it seems pretty comprehensive.

Today I ordered a couple locks from Amazon that are pretty cheap. The Abus 80TI/50 (green belt) is $13.11 right now.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G7P3FYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1520483379&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Abus

I also ordered an American 1106 (blue belt) for $9.87

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015MG09E8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YDTCDD4HSFGP6KAZBZ5H

I wanted to get a few locks that are progressively harder to practice on and learn more about security pins, found good prices on these and couldn't pass them up.

Amazon, eBay, wherever. Brass rod stock in specific diameters is a bit beyond what you can find at the Home Depot. Fortunately, it doesn't take much.

Here is some 3mm brass rod stock that works great for Kwikset and Schlage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074W3W1B1

Technically, it's too big (.118 inches instead of .115 inches), but what's a few thousands of an inch between friends? ;)

I have two of the Stanley padlocks right now and I haven't been able to pick either of them! Watching multiple gutting of these guys it seems to vary how many security pins are in them. Yours is actually the least amount of security pins I've seen in one yet. That being said I think they are the best dollar/security padlock on the market right now. I think the next step up in that sector is the Stanley 60mm version and above that being a Abus 83CS/50 with a Mul-T-Lock Junior MT4 (dimple in dimple) with a combined price of at least $70.

This one is a good bathroom read. It's very basic and easy to understand. Not super thorough but great for understanding concepts.

What do you think you are going to try to work on next? I highly suggest skipping the master 140 and getting the brinks 40 mm laminated padlock or the brinks brass padlock

I feel bad that ever since I made my list everyone seems to be buying the locks. The Brinks used to be a$5 addon,and now it is $10. You may be able to get it at Walmart of cheaper.

I like the Brinks because they are a 4 pin lock with good feedback (master 140 feedback is not as strong), and it has one non-threatening spool. My experience it is in pin 4 usually. You can get a nice little false set on the lock, and some good counter rotation on the spool.

You two should try Masterlock 141D's. They're practically everywhere, easy to pick, and give great feedback when setting the pins.

​

Link to Amazon's 141D listing for reference.

I struggle on and off as well... don't get discouraged!

BosnianBill recommended this the other day and I bought it on Amazon and love it so far! Maybe it's time to "go back to school"!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0970978863/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really like the Stanley locks personally. They are rekeyable, bit an arm and a leg, and really nice. I own three of them. (2 60mm padlocks and a 50mm with shackle guard). The 50mm is under 16.00 even. Here are the three I have purchased that I am really happy with:

50mm w/ shackle guard

60mm w/ shackle guard

60mm fat padlock

That being said, if it is a storage unit that is enclosed, I would have no problem using a normal Chateaux discus lock. I use the Chateaux C970 discus lock, but now that I have found the 50mm stanley with shackle guard I am going to start using them since they are actually a little cheaper than the Chateaux and gives me the option to key it any way I like (thanks to the removable cylinder).

HTH

The locks that look like these generally work with the comb picks.

Good luck fitting these tools in anything worth picking, though >.> I've got the Comb BAR set, and this is probably going to be the only set of comb picks I'll ever buy due to their uselessness.

You can get a dozen 72/40s for 44$ And repin the hell out of them. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Safety-Padlock-Orange-Keyed/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=abus+72%2F40+12&qid=1568399917&s=hi&sr=1-3

The Abus has a tight keyway, just FYI.

The 1100 American is an awesome lock. you can pull all the pins out and get some great practice.

Alright, I don't know what conditions or environments the lock is gonna be in, but here's my two suggestions.
The American is a bit harder to pick, but slightly less physically strong as it lacks the shackle guard. It is however made out of solid steel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/?coliid=I2W5VXJN39AN2D&colid=10884BQRHBHB8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5200D-Solid-Padlock/dp/B009YO0CF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=american+5200&qid=1551362477&s=hi&sr=1-2

If someone really wants to get in, they will. Lockers don’t hold big enough shackles for you to have much physical resistance, and someone could just break the cheap locker door or hinges regardless.

That being said, I agree with u/stab_in_the_eye. American 1100s are light, decently strong, impressively cheap, and will take some time and decent skill to pick (not astroturfing). They can be bought here, and this color (Master Lock Influence, priced by color) is currently on sale for some reason.

EDIT: Also, if you don’t think the longer shackle on the 1106 will fit, this one has a shorter shackle, but is (Master Lock!) priced... higher?

The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing is a good reference book & How to Pick Locks with Improvised Tools has a bunch of info on the theory of lockpicking so you can imporvise.

"I'm like Miles Davis with a 12-guage." - Gunther

Here's a link to a bunch of 72/40s if you're looking to practice the same lock with the same bitting. It can help you learn how two identical models can have different binding order.

ABUS 72/40 Aluminum Safety Padlock Orange Keyed Alike - Long Shackle (1-1/2") - 12 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qcKTDbWSB1D0K

I first picked a Master Lock #3 Link and this Link. The second one is neet for learning as it has a big key way and only 4 pins. You can single pin pick it or rake the shit out of it. I got them both from target.

Because it attracts dirt and dust and over time it will be like you sprayed a soda inside. It gunks up the lock horribly. Use Houdini, it works really well and it smells nice too. http://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459130125&sr=8-1&keywords=houdini+spray

Careful, that listing is only for ONE lock (BLUE). American Locks are hard to find on Amazon.ca. Amazon.com (US) has them for $10 each and ships to Canada (or if near the border, find a friend to ship to and pick up):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MG09E8

Thanks! It’s “Visual Guide to Lockpicking” (link ).

the visual guide cannot be beaten in clear directions for beginners.

I'd turn around and walk out.

I keep very little of my gear in my locker, I keep all my guitars and main amps at either my folk's house or the studio. But I keep my tech. cases, boats, a few amps, and now, almost everything I own from my apt.

I can't tell you how many guys/bands I know/see that store their stuff in 24 hour access, and put a fucking Master lock on it, thinking because they got the one with the yellow rubber coating that it's a tough lock. Then they're surprised when they go to get their gear for their next show, and their locker's been emptied. (And guess what? It happened 10 minutes after they loaded it in there.)

I also can't tell you how many times I've told smaller acts pulling a trailer to spend sixty bucks on a better lock, back it against a wall, and pull the coil wire.

I get an indoor locker and put this on it. They'd have to tear the door off to get in there, unless they've got a few hours to try to work it.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Book-Locks-Locksmithing/dp/0071448292


a good start. Perhaps not as much history as you're looking for, however.

These have a spinning drill plate that prevent drilling very well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3dp7Cb51WXGPP

Here is the link to the lock on amazon!

There's some older stuff, too!

Shoes and I gave a talk in 2010 that focused specifically on ways to attacks locks just with key blanks and non-working keys. The first 20 minutes focuses on features of keys, photography, molding, casting, and other related topics.

Deviant's second book Keys to the Kingdom (2012) focused on procedures for many key/blank-based attacks, as well.

The American 5200 and the Mako 427 are blue, cheapish, and generally on amazon in the US.

Pick the American 1100 for a blue belt. Amazon has it in yellow for $9.68. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_evtJzb30VMHB0

From this Amazon listing stating "Publication Date: October 8, 2012", and talking with Deviant on Twitter.

This, his second book (on bypassing locks WITH a key) on "the topics of impressioning, master key escalation, skeleton keys, and bumping attacks", also comes out shortly.

Is this the one?

American Lock A5200D 1-3/4" Solid Body Steel Padlock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YO0CF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tI7wCbPKCBQ0H

https://www.amazon.com/Visual-Guide-Lock-Picking-McCloud/dp/0970978863

I was thinking the same, but hey here is a cheaper idea for you (another i considered) - 12 cylinders shipped $44 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ovzDDb3YAYPH1

You will have a bunch of lock bodies as leftovers..

whoops, 3.60 each but still. I assume you bought 3 12 lock keyed alike lots? https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Safety-Padlock-Orange-Keyed/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=abus+72%2F40&qid=1565666042&s=gateway&sr=8-9

http://www.amazon.com/Keys-Kingdom-Impressioning-Privilege-Escalation/dp/1597499838/ref=la_B005TCK66M_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1410827606&sr=1-2

See this link. What you are talking about is privilege escalation. Attack the key, own the lock.