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I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

I'll have to try a box of 140s, all my LGS had was the 120 and 129 grain loads. When I was at the store I just searched for "Ruger American 6.5 grain load" and got some results with people saying theirs grouped well with the 120gr ELD from Hornady.

>You may not need it, but I put an easy to install kydex riser on mine that helped... it's an option.

Yup I am getting ready to order one actually!

>I also cleaned out the barrel channel on the stock to keep it from flexing/touching the barrel with some sanding. Seemed to help precision in paper sessions.


This was one of the first things I did because my stock was touching the barrel when I got it. I took a piece of conduit and wrapped it in 120, 220, 600, 800, and 1200 grit sandpapers and opened the channel on the forend. Seemed to help a lot.

>It's not hard to remove the two hex bolts to adjust the trigger weight. They run into the two v-blocks in the stock. If you do, just make sure you have an inch-pound tool to get the torque specs set in the proper range.

This should probably be my next purchase: a torque screwdriver or wrench. Right now I'm just hillbilly guessing, so it would be nice to have everything torqued correctly. I have messed with the trigger, cut a coil, stoned the contact surfaces, and it finally feels good. I'm guessing I got it down to 2.5lbs, or maybe a very smooth 3lbs.

>Enjoy. I feel this is one of the best bangs for the buck going.

I agree! I was between this and a Savage. Glad I went with the American because I was able to spend more on glass.

Outstanding. I love mine, too. Looks like you nailed the ring height on the first try, too. Vortex is good stuff and that one looks like it belongs there.

For what it's worth:
I bought the rifle for hunting season, and used 140gr ELD-X for that. Started taking to long ranges and used 140gr ELD-M with very good results. Only thing less than that I used was 129gr Hornady "superformance" with less than stellar results.... if 120gr's are your magic "number", cool. Mine seemed to like the heavier bullets.

You may not need it, but I put an easy to install kydex riser on mine that helped... it's an option.

I also cleaned out the barrel channel on the stock to keep it from flexing/touching the barrel with some sanding. Seemed to help precision in paper sessions.

It's not hard to remove the two hex bolts to adjust the trigger weight. They run into the two v-blocks in the stock. If you do, just make sure you have an inch-pound tool to get the torque specs set in the proper range.

Enjoy. I feel this is one of the best bangs for the buck going.

I would challenge you to save. I understand we are all different financially. Please don't think I mean it that way. I just mean that since upgrading I've realized that this scope is my crown jewel. If I lost all my guns and had to start over, I'd buy this vortex again first before even buying a firearm. I think it's absolutely worth it. I'd sell guns I don't shoot to find a scope like this. I'd scrape and save because it's incredibly worth it. Of all the gun stuff I've dumped money into, this actually was a good decision. See if you can find a used one.

Having said that, a lot of the Vortex Viper SFP products in the 3-500 dollar range will work really well. Crank it all the way up to max magnification for long range / precision applications, or keep it at half while going innawoods. I'd also recommend one of these so you can be ready to get to max magnification.

Breakaway Nylon Coaster Cat Tail
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AAIRRTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_je1wybMBQ0NAR

Lastly, unless you need to take a shot at a deer at 50 yards or less, a fixed 10x like the SWFA is gonna be the most bang for your buck. 10x isn't nearly as much magnification as you think.

My biggest point would be go handle some scopes. As much as I thought I could, I didn't realize the big differences until I held the vortex viper and got to compare it to others. Shout out to Kenzie's optics for being a fantastic company. They made my process so much easier to finding the right glass. Go get hands on and see what you think / like.

I'll start by saying I think that savage looks pretty awesome. However:


Despite a lot of hate on the AAC-SD I have one and I love it. Out of the box it shot sub-MOA with factory load XM118s and PPU 168s. The factory Xmark Pro gets unnecessary hate for no reason. It has amazing adjustment and feel out of the box compared to a lot of the hair triggers people try to put on their rifles. You really don't need another trigger but you can if you want to waste the money. Remington will do the recall on the rifle for free for the "totally fires itself if you run it down to the lowest setting and bump it like a dumbass" bullshit that is not even true of any R700 ever built, but you can send it in and they will do it for you. I sent both of mine in just because it made it easier to ship them to my new house when I moved. Their customer support is pretty awesome. As is Smith and Wesson's and Winchesters in my experience.

The rifle is stock for me at the moment and I am using a Caldwell bi-pod with a Bushnell elite scope. The scope isn't the end all be all but it is the best thing I've ever shot through as a civilian. I was in the same boat as you money wise. I do notice the complaint about the free float being negated with a bi-pod sometimes since the Hogue stock is basically rubber but if you fire each round with the exact same fundamentals down it will shoot sub-moa still. I'm using a 20MOA down scope mount from Nightforce and I love it. The rifle is a bit heavy and I do want to swap out the stock eventually for a M24 or M40 variant but it can easily be handled and used to shoot and move if you choose to practice like that. I've had it out to 500 yards so far and at that range it still shot a 16oz water bottle off the wall at our tactical range from our elevated tower. I'll see if I have any pictures of it somewhere and I'll post it, or just take it out later and take a picture of it.

I got the rifle itself from Buds Gun shop Police discount side of the house for $600 shipped to my FFL and most everything else from Amazon since there wasn't a good shop where I lived at the time.

Rifle

Scope

Scope mount/rings

Bipod

Scope Level

>where I can make a 500 yard kill shot, and hit sub MOA at 800. Is that doable with my set up?

It's possible, though likely challenging with your setup unless your barrel ends up being really good and you find ammo it really likes. And you will need lots of range time and practice.

As for bipods, you don't want to cheap out and get imported Chinese shit, but you don't need to spend a ton of money either. Harris occupies the sweet spot for durable, reliable, low weight bipods at reasonable money.

This is the one most people on here recommend for flat prone and bench shooting. You might want the 9-12 for prone shooting innawoods hunting.

I used the notched non-swivel version that is $20 cheaper or so.


As for rings, I prefer to get a rail AND rings so that there is something really consistent that the scope is mounted to that isn't subject to flex or QC issues like receivers can sometimes be. The rail acts kindof like a buffer, they aren't expensive, and they give you 20 MOA of elevation if you choose. Plus they give you a Picatinny section that will give you a much greater selection of ring choices.

I also really like the Burris Signature Zee rings for solid, reliable, safe scope holding since the plastic inserts help spread the clamping force and prevent issues with rings being not perfectly true or the insides not exactly mating with the scope.

This Talley rail(I thought that was a rail for an m77, but apparently it isn't, see the rail from a poster below) and these rings are what I would put on my rifle.

Glad you liked it! That’s Ryan Cleckner, and I agree with you. I’ve really gotten into his stuff. He has more videos on YouTube (try searching “NSSF Ryan Cleckner”) and I’m loving going through his book (I’m a beginner). Best of luck!

Generally good points, and its a really worthwhile discussion, but point 1 is pretty hotly debated. For example, if you read The Wind Book for Rifle Shooters you will find that they completely disagree, and that wind in the first half is more important.

Aside from that, I think you have done a good job here, and I hope it sparks useful debate.

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

I think 12x is a good in between, 10x is also fine. Depending on how far you shoot normally, the 16x would also be acceptable. If you are just shooting from prone or something, 16x would be good. If you are doing a bit more PRS type stuff, 12x is the way to go, or even 10x.

To save a bit of money, I would also recommend getting the burris signature 30mm rings. Reason being is you won't have to buy a 20MOA base with these (assuming you haven't already) - you can adjust the MOA with the rings and they're relatively cheap. You will want to upgrade from them later on though, I'm sure they will slip eventually.

What is the main purpose of your rifle? Hunting? Plinking? Competitions? The answer should effect which optic you get.

Love mine, congrats! I put this on it and am very happy with it:

Bushnell Elite Tactical 6-24x50 FFP ERS

Honestly I'm using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032MUIL4/ref=oh_details_o06_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my 22-250 and it has worked pretty well. Yeah there are a few little things like the collars where the springs attach can slip but I fixed that with a bit of sugru, and then added more sugru to help quiet it up a bit for varmint hunting.

If I were shooting something huge that was really heavy or had a big kick I would think about getting something more expensive... After I tried this cheapo on it.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

The Amazon link for the SWFA is for $299.95 with free non-Prime/non-subscription shipping. It is available for under $300, and still worth quite a bit more than $60 difference over a BSA or Primary Arms in functionality.

If the SWFA didn't exist, then the Primary Arms would probably be my go to budget scope. I love the cost/benefit rubric. But having been exposed to scopes that cost more than my first car, it's clear that even the budget fixed 10xSWFA is just in a higher class of performance than the Primary Arms 4x14.

Again, it comes down to buying "features" vs. "performance".

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5IL5X2/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJXUKDD490V61

My buddy is worried they scrimped somewhere to get the FFP tech in there. You love yours?

Funny part is it's goign on my 5.56 first for training and hunting this year. I just love the modularity.

I just got a Primary Arms 4-14x FFP MIL-MIL scope. It's nice and $230 is a good deal.

Buy it from Amazon and save $15 in shipping!

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Arms-4-14X44-Mil-Scope/dp/B00L5IL5X2

I also started by watching Sniper 101. This is a better source for all the information found there.
It's available as an ebook and physically. I largely consider the series useful to a point, but not worth the 40+ hour investment. You can learn everything you need in much less time, and without massive tangential ramblings and half an hour of self-aggrandizing per video.

His whole "thing" basically boils down to "record your shots under every known condition so you can hit on a cold bore shot by referencing what you've already done." Requires a notebook to go shooting, in addition to the logbook most snipers use.

A ballistic calculator will basically get you there with a lot less effort.

Some people know this, others don't- you might have heard it already- but don't clean your bore from the muzzle side. That's probably the best tip I can give you to protect you from making a mistake early on.

In the book, however, there is one thing I disagree with, that's my personal preference (and I am by no means an expert- check my flair). The author likes second focal plane scopes; I prefer first focal plane. It's mostly about how you use the rifle, and what you're comfortable with.

The $20 spring kit for the Compass from Mcarbo helped me a lot, brings the trigger way down and does it safely from what I can tell. Before I installed that kit, I was actually moving the reticle just trying to squeeze the trigger on the lowest setting. With it installed it feels somewhere around 2-3lbs, breaks a lot cleaner, and there's no more jump when I squeeze the trigger. Also, if you're dialing distance with your turrets, you want a bubble level attached to the scope. A $10 one off amazon is doing fine for me. Without one, a couple degrees of cant between shots is inches (or feet) off at distance.

Also, even as an experienced shooter, when I started getting involved with long range this book from Ryan Cleckner taught me quite a few tips that made me even better.

I also bought a T/C Compass this year in 6.5CM, got a discounted shooting mat on Midway, a $20 bipod off amazon and a $100 UTG scope. I plan on upgrading to a Vortex, but the so-so UTG scope does okay for now. With that setup, I'm handloading Hornady ELD-X bullets and am doing a good job whapping golf balls at 300 yards currently.

I have a Barska 20-60x scope that is $75 on amazon. It's not exactly high quality, but it works pretty well for the price. I'm not sure how well it'll work at 300 yards, I've only used it at the 100 yard range. Also FYI, if you wear glasses, you'll need to take them off to look through this scope.


http://www.amazon.com/BARSKA-Colorado-Waterproof-Spotting-Scope/dp/B001HN9QZY

Nice! If you haven't I'd recommend picking up a copy of the long range shooting handbook: https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Shooting-Handbook-Cleckner/dp/151865472X

It's not exhaustive, but it was pretty useful in coming up to speed (and cutting through the chaff).

Linking if anyone else is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLACF2AEF0EC711484

​

There is a kindle version of this book too! on Amazon that is. I read through it on my phone. Great if you're a visual learner.

https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Shooting-Handbook-Beginners-ebook/dp/B01BE3LEQK

​

Also if anyone is mind blown by the rifle scope mounting shortcut, I just learned there is a tool that expedites that even more https://arisakadefense.com/products/optic-leveler

http://www.cabelas.com/product/SAVAGE-FCP-SR-RIFLE/1969842.uts

https://www.amazon.com/SWFA-SS-10x42-Tactical-Riflescope/dp/B00GR79BGY

This will be a great starter setup to get you to 1000 yards for about $1000 if buying new. You'll get best bang for your buck buying the same rifle/scope on the used market, and could likely hit your $700 budget. Since you reload already, look for one of the rifles in 6.5CM.

Nice one. Thanks for your honest post. If you’re just starting out, I might suggest: https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_0uATDb2WJJQG5

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

• EGW 20 MOA base ($39.99)
  
• 2 x Vortex Tactical 30mm rings ($19.99 x 2)
  
• Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP ($229.99)
  
• Wheeler FAT torque screwdriver ($44.99)
  
  This will bring you in under $500. You get a first focal plane mil/mil scope with adjustable power with plenty of internal adjustment to dial your elevation. Save up for better glass and upgrade as you go. This setup will get you to 1000 yards easily.

I realize that is a valid question but I felt stupid saying it out loud. Basically it is a Nightforce 1 piece mount. I had this thought as I was mounting it and as it turns out the screw holes only line up one direction. I feel like from what I was seeing that the thing is mounted backwards but it literally does not fit the other way, the screws just don't line up. I'll take it off and give it a whirl though one last time and see what happens. I mean this would be a super simple answer that I actually struggled with for a while. To be 100% honest, looking at it my mind tells me that it is on backwards but like I said the screw holes just don't line up to make that possible.

Edit: This is the mount and I have it mounted where that extra bit that is to the right in the image is the back of the scope. That is the only way it fits and some google image searching seems to agree that is properly mounted.

Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.

yeah, now I need to find somewhere to stretch it out even further.

the phone mount works pretty good, this is the setup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG54ZXH

https://www.amazon.com/TR-Industrial-Collapsible-Measuring-Yellow/dp/B01018D7MS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549555576&sr=8-3&keywords=rolling+measurement+wheel I just use one of these cheap and easy you just have to walk to make it work and super accurate.

I found The Wind Book For Rifle Shooters to be a fantastic primer. It is conversational (kind of feels like you're having a chat with a kind uncle), but doesn't shy away from the math... and it just gets you to think about the wind and its effects properly.

I highly recommend it, even if it doesn't seem to get a lot of airtime here.

Any specific models that compete with the Razor?

I have the older Bushnell Elite Tactical Illuminated G2DMR on my RPR that I like, but this build feels like it needs something higher end. I saw that Bushnell has a newer elite tactical too that I was curious about

Now I'm also seeing that FFP (Front Focal Plane) is superior to SFP (Secondary Focal Plane), and a good budget scope for FFP is the Primary Arms Primary Arms 4-14X FFP? Could I use that at ranges below 100 yards?

These come in a pack of 2 for $10 from Amazon. Work great.









https://www.amazon.com/Breakaway-Nylon-Coaster-Cat-Tail/dp/B00AAIRRTY

Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon

I have the book. I’m pretty set on what rifle I want. But he says in the intro “read the whole book before you buy if you’re serious”

on Amazon

What scope rings did you buy? I see Vortex. What height?

If you want a torque wrench/screw driver for scope mounting or other light smithing work Wheeler makes a good one.

Most scope rings/bases use 15-30 in-lbs. I'd highly recommend this one:


Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBqpxbSC2XE5G

This is the one that most people end up buying. I've had it for a couple years, 5 stars! It comes with all the bits you'll need.

book

honestly this book will give you just about everything you need to get started on long range.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Kydex-Cheek-Rest-Riser/dp/B00G9PN4G2

used this on my LRP, works good

I highly recommend Long Range Shooting Handbook by Ryan Cleckner. Also look him up on YouTube. https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o3fPBbQPWJ6H3

Oh damn, I'd honestly shy away from using loctite on mounts. Look into a torque wrench and once you're at spec you won't need loctite. I've got this one and have mounted about a dozen scopes with it: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Thanks, clear lower gets a lot of questions at the range.

Sounds like you need a torque wrench made for small arms.

Affordable beginners scope that has nothing but good reviews is the primary arms 4-14 x 44 ffp. I bought one for my Savage Hog Hunter and love it.

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Arms-4-14X-Tactical-PA4-14XFFP/dp/B00L5IL5X2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453474544&sr=8-1&keywords=primary+arms+4-14x44+ffp

http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44-mil-mil-ffp-scope/p/kt-pa4-14xffp/

Go on Amazon and get the Wheeler torque wrench.

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BJXJAbTNBDGD1

I would suggest investing in a wheeler FAT wrench so you know you are not over torquing your bolts. I have never broken any torx keys with using loctite.

Edit: Wheeler

Just be careful which one you buy. This looks correct and has good ratings (did not see anything about wrong model)

https://www.amazon.com/SWFA-SS-10x42-Tactical-Riflescope/dp/B00ZGM7C80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518400360&sr=8-1&keywords=swfa+10x42+mil

Make the reticle and turrets match.

ah shoot sorry you are correct that isn't even the one I have lol! I have this one.

try the hardcover!

Just got this for Christmas yesterday.

Long Range Shooting Handbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/151865472X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hntyybWQ3F683

Good reviews on this one for $50.

I would suggest Ryan Cleckner's Long Range Shooting Handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Shooting-Handbook-Cleckner/dp/151865472X/

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Arms-4-14X-Tactical-PA4-14XFFP/dp/B00L5IL5X2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465192120&sr=8-1&keywords=primary+arms+ffp

http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Tactical-Medium-Rings-Matte/dp/B003RC54QI/ref=sr_1_21?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1465192328&sr=1-21&keywords=scope+rings

http://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Pivot-Model-Bipod-Inch/dp/B0032MUIL4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1465192197&sr=1-1&keywords=caldwell+bipod

I'm not knocking the goal, all goals are ultimately arbitrary. What I'm saying is you should not put your goal on a pedestal. If you want to shoot at 1k, get your dope and scope and go shoot at 1k now. Shorter distances are good for practice when you can't get to the big range. Your goal of a ~1moa cold-bore shot is entirely reachable and will mostly depend on your wind-reading and reloading skills.

If you want, you can install your new optic yourself with a set of $10 levels and a $50 wrench. It's not rocket surgery.

Personally, I think break-in has a bigger effect on velocity than accuracy. I've never noticed any velocity effects but some other people have reported faster velocities after a few hundred rounds.

700 is cutting is close but you could get the savage hog hunter for $450 and the PA 4-14x44 for $230. You'd still need rings and a bipod but that's as close to $700 as I can think of.