Yes! I use Carbon Copy Cloner. So far I've been using it to make backup images, but not clones yet.

On my old Windows Laptop, I would use Acronis True Image. Making clones and swapping out drives were super easy and always worked.

I am looking for a similar solution if and when I decide to pick up that 970 Evo Pro.

This one seems to be the winner - https://www.amazon.com/USB3-1-Type-C-Enclosure-External-Adapter/dp/B07FK1BBYM/

(Note: this was a reply to /u/PKBeam64's comment about some Boot Camp problems - I replied to the wrong message, sorry!)

Yes, I almost exclusively run Windows 10 on my late 2013 MBPr 15". In fact, I so rarely boot into macOS any more that I officially converted the machine to a WinBook Pro by putting this cool Windows logo decal on it. (See my review on that page for tips on applying the decal.)

Windows version

First, which Windows 10 update are you running? You want to be on the Creators Update. Hit the Start button or Windows key (the left Command key) and type winver and Enter. What you want to see is:

Version 1703 (OS Build 15063.540)

If it's older than that, update to the latest version. You should be able to do that in the Windows Update settings panel. High DPI support has improved considerably since Windows 10 was first released.

Scrolling

I don't know of a way to get the two-finger-drag scrolling to work as smoothly as it is on macOS. Unfortunately Apple's driver for the touchpad converts a two-finger drag into mouse wheel, which traditionally scrolls one or more lines at a time.

There are a couple of things you can improve here: you can reduce the mouse wheel scrolling from the default 3 lines down to 1 line at a time. This is easy to do under Settings/Mouse. And if you prefer "natural" scrolling (as I do) you have probably noticed that Windows defaults to the old-style scrolling (where the window under the mouse cursor moves the opposite direction from your finger movement). You can change it to natural scrolling by editing the registry, or there is an app that will change it for you.

Full instructions for all of the above, along with some other tips, are on this page.

High DPI

You should be getting very nice high DPI support in Windows. In fact, I greatly prefer Windows font rendering to macOS.

First, make sure you're on the Creators Update as I mentioned above.

Then, do not run at a reduced resolution. Run Windows in native resolution, the highest resolution that you can select in Settings/Display. This will be 2880x1800 on a 15" machine or 2560x1600 on a 13" machine.

Next, select an appropriate scaling factor in that same settings panel. I like 250% since I prefer largish text. You may also try 200% or 225% to see what you prefer.

Finally, use the ClearType tuner (hit Start and type "cleartype") to adjust the font rendering to your taste. I found that I like the text to be a little darker and bolder than the default. The differences are subtle; you may want to experiment with this a few times to see what you like.

After that, you're down to application-by-application support. Most popular apps have been updated by now for high DPI support and should work well with these settings, because so many new Windows machines are shipping with high DPI displays.

Unfortunately there are a few laggards that do not support high DPI. For these you can experiment with the compatibility settings. Get to the app shortcut in the Start menu (typically by hitting Start and typing the app name). Right click it and select Properties. Go to the Compatibility tab and turn on the "Override high DPI scaling behavior" checkbox. This will enable the "Scaling performed by" list below it, where you can try the Application, System, or System (enhanced) settings.

Tip: use the Apply button after changing a setting instead of OK, so the property panel remains open and you can try a different setting or turn the override checkbox back off without having to open the panel again.

These may or may not help, depending on the app. For some apps you'll just have to live with somewhat blurry text as Windows has to scale the text for the app. Nag the app vendor if this is the case! As I said, it's not just MacBooks where this is an issue, but any new Windows machine with a high DPI display.

Let me know if you have any specific apps that don't work well after you use these recommended settings and I can see if I have any suggestions.

Battery reading and detecting if it's plugged in

Hmm... Something is fishy here. This should work perfectly! I get accurate battery readings and a correct indication of AC power.

Have you installed the latest Boot Camp drivers? Run Apple Software Update and see if it has any driver updates for you.

I think a case is more scratch-proof than a skin.

I got [this Procase Case] (https://www.amazon.com/MacBook-Release-ProCase-Keyboard-Crystal/dp/B01N1JHPEF/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1505431476&sr=8-11&keywords=case%2B13%2Bmacbook%2Bpro&th=1) from Amazon, pretty good, it's slim, and the rubberised matte black finish looks great. However, it does not cover the back corners of the MacBook Pro so you gotta a bit careful there.

I had a chance to try out the Incase Case that Apple sells with MBP too. It covers the corners but there's a design flaw that you can only open the machine to 90 degree maximum. (The Apple Store staff helped me put it on so I assume it was put on properly). I can't use my MBP when opening it to only 90 so I returned it and kept the Procase case.

Just my 2cents, but for preventing scratches, you get pretty good value with the Procase Case from Amazon.

It's the 15", and I'm mostly coding/compiling.

>But it means nothing if you max the CPU utils all the time anyway as the 15” will max its tdp regardless of year (and that leads to 1 hr runtime)

Hmm yes ok, I think I'll be missing this gain most of the time.

>Battery wise the 2015 15” got a battery bump to 8700mAH

Ok this is interesting, thanks. It's something :)

I was joking about the external battery as a bit of a hack, but it seems there are decent products available e.g. 40000mAh with a Magsafe 2 cable. That might be my best option to get out of a pickle now and in future anyway.

https://www.amazon.com.au/BatPower-Portable-External-2006-2015-Smartphone/dp/B07DL664GF/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/375-5719594-5540932

Thanks so much for taking the time to put together this history/summary mo5214!

Are you sure the price tag is $500 (if you're in the US)? RAM from OWC is $160. The 8GB RAM kit is less. A Samsung EVO 500GB drive is $150 on Amazon - I believe any SATA III drive will work, and I think I have an earlier model of this one on my 2010 MBP (which takes SATA II, actually). Battery is about $90 from iFixit. That's more like $400 if you're content to DIY.

For the stuff you do, that will be a very noticeable upgrade, especially going up from 4GB of RAM to 8 (I also don't think 16 is necessary for what you said you do).

If you really got that computer from a pawn shop for $250, then you got a very good deal! Putting another $400 or so into it is a perfectly reasonable thing to do. For what you are doing, I bet it will be perfectly usable for at least a couple more years.

Well, the reviews look OK on that one. What I do on Amazon is I use the review search feature to search for "MacBook Pro" in the reviews to see what people's experiences are with it. Seems like a safe order since Amazon should let you return it if something is wrong.

I forgot to include the adapter links you asked for. There are two kinds. One is a very compact adapter that is cheap and easy to carry around:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/

The disadvantage is the USB-A end can be so wide that it blocks the adjacent port. To solve this is another type is on a short cable to get the wide USB A-part away from the laptop body.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DRG8RR/

As you can see these are often sold now in 2-packs for less than USD$10. Both kinds are so cheap I got a pair of both, so I have one of each type at the desk and one of each type in my bag.

Note that those adapters support USB 3 gen 1 at 5 Gbit/sec. This is fine for most things. But if maximum speed data transfers are a high priority (for example external SSD with USB 3.1 Gen 2 port), you could spend a little more to make sure you have adapter cables supporting the full 10 Gb/sec speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports on a current MacBook Pro.

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Green-Cell-Delivery-MateBook-Microsoft/dp/B07D9L8S73/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537658666&sr=8-1&keywords=green+cell+hub maybe it isn't 60Hz on 4K, but I am using on 2k monitor and it's great. Good price and very good quality.

Thank you all so much for the advice. I finally pulled the trigger this weekend and upgraded my mac and the difference is incredible. It would normally take up to 5 minutes for my mac to fully turn on and login. Now its under 30 seconds!

For those looking to do the same thing here's what I did:

1. Crucial MX500 1TB SSD drive : https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG
   
2. NewerTech NuPower Battery: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAP15MBU78W/#owctabs
   
3. Sata to USB Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. A computer tool kit. (I already had one, but any basic kit will do) Heres one I found that seems fine: https://www.amazon.com/Kingsdun-Precision-Screwdriver-Repair-MacBook/dp/B01E9RLF1W/ref=sr_1_28?crid=2GIVKIC5PVMUC&keywords=laptop+screwdriver+kit&qid=1555941998&s=electronics&sprefix=laptop+scre%2Celectronics%2C130&sr=1-28
   
5. Flash drive with at least 8gb space and USB 3.0 for speed: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Transfer-Speeds-s-SDCZ48-032G-UAM46/dp/B00KYK2AKO/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?crid=1JNUES6V59YY3&keywords=32gb+flash+drive+3.0&pd_rd_i=B00KYK2AKO&pd_rd_r=e3b71c2f-31f3-48ca-b07c-83203b9d1fe4&pd_rd_w=DdDhT&pd_rd_wg=sef5B&pf_rd_p=eadd3af5-2f5b-4e14-9c3d-ff9268352f18&pf_rd_r=N5T0Q3BEBVJ8CDMW226Q&qid=1555942155&s=electronics&sprefix=32gb+flash+dri%2Celectronics%2C122
   
   ​
   
   

   How to upgrade your Mid-2012 15-Inch MacBook Pro
   

   
   Step 1 - Backup your files
   For me this took the longest, I'm not the most organized person. I also saved my keychain, apple mail logins, stickeys, etc. I was in the middle of projects that I needed to jump right back into after the upgrade.
   
   Step 2 - Create a macOS installer on the USB drive
   Follow this ---> https://9to5mac.com/2018/10/22/how-to-create-macos-mojave-usb-installer-easy-video/
   
   
   Step 3 - Plug the new harddrive in via Sata cable usb
   This is where my first issue came into play. I skipped ahead and swapped out my harddrives only to try and boot up and my system not recognize the new SSD. I first thought I purchased a dud. The truth is you need to format the new drive for the computer to see it. Plug in the new SSD and follow these instructions to erase and format. I chose Mac OS Extended (journaled) https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208496
   
   NOTE::: you dont have to use the usb drive, you can install the new SSD first if you want and format from the bootable USB.
   
   
   Step 4 - Install the new SSD
   Follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfiGF_pjqvM
   
   When installed, hold Option on your keyboard and then turn on. Select the USB macOS installer and follow instructions. Install onto the new SSD. Should take 20-30 min
   
   ​
   
   Step 5 - The Battery
   
   Follow the instructions in the videos on this page: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAP15MBU78W/#owctabs
   Make sure you set aside some time to do this. The install is very fast however its the calibration that takes some time. After you install your new battery, turn the computer on to test, there should be a little charge in it. Shut your computer down and then plug in. Let it fully charge, the light on plug should turn green. Then leave it for another 2 hours. Turn the computer on, unplug, turn all power settings off (follow video) and let the computer run until the battery is completely dead. Then wait a number of hours. This will calibrate your battery with your system.
   
   ​
   
   Then plug in and enjoy your new laptop!

For a protector that is soft and is the same color of the keyboard, slips a little while on the keyboard, but looks great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N75EWO2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a standard clear protector that does not slip, and is very clear, you can see the keyboard light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGLP5SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

If you’re into programming you’ll miss the `esc` key. You might want to consider changing the `caps lock` key to `esc` key. Also you can customize the touchbar(to some degree) I have it so I can look my mbpro with a touch of a button.


Another thing I like that is not inherent to macos is `clippy` it’s a clipboard manager, also `magnet` on the AppStore…


It’s fairly easy to take screenshots `cmd+shift+3` or `4` but there are better tools out there.


Tell us what you’ll use the macbook for and then maybe we can help a bit.


Accessories… I’m actually looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Tuwejia-Thounderbolt-Splitter-Charge%EF%BC%8CTpye-Compatible/dp/B07KXRJTRM/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=usb+c+to+2+hdmi&qid=1564258648&s=gateway&sr=8-10 right now. Seems like something I want, but not 100% sure I want to spend the money on it _right now_ . I have all of the dongles I need from work, but I want to be able to have a dock for when I come to work on my two screens at home.

posted this on another thread:

As a 2016 Mbp-tb owner, I'm really feeling that I do not need as many dongles as I expected when I first bought my mac.

The two cables I have and use often:
USB type C to USB 3.1 micro-B (the flat kind for my external HDs)
link

USB type C to HDMI

I also have a transcend portable USB 3.0 port that I used with my old MacBook Pro, connects via USB 3.1 micro B as well. Switched out the connecting cable and works perfectly with my mac. https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-SuperSpeed-USB-TS-HUB3K/dp/B005D69QD8

The good thing is, most of WD's hard drives are connected via 3.1 micro B anyways. So I normally just need to bring one cable to either connect to my USB 3.0 hub or my external hard drive.

To be totally honest, the number of cables/dongles I have for my mbp is actually less than what I used to have to use for my 2011 mbp.

Applecare extends the 1 year to 3 years (90 days phone to 3 years), then typically CC warranties come after Applecare. Check your terms for that though, they typically apply to new devices, not sure if it covers open box. Because mine was used the CC warranty doesn't apply in my case.

I got this hub as part of a larger upgrade plan to make my MBP a desktop at home and then disconnect and go when I need a laptop. The hub is a bit overkill for me as I don't really need VGA and the headphone jack, and now I realized I don't need HDMI either as I'm planning on going USB-C to DisplayPort for best resolution for a future 4K monitor. I ended up with this hub because while I was planning on a smilar hub to this minus VGA and headphone, that had a 10% coupon that disappeared when I was buying, so this hub made more sense without that discount. Truthfully I really only needed USB + Ethernet ($25-$30) but I figured if I ever need the other ports in the future I don't have to buy another device. Anyway, it works great, though it does get hot with a lot of network usage. My only minor thing against it is that wires come out all sides (visible in photo), so if you want a clean wire layout it's not really happening with this model. I also have a smaller USB-C to HDMI & USB adapter that I got for my Note 9 which works with this as well but I don't really need it.

My full future upgrade checklist includes, in order of priority: 24-27" 4K monitor (still looking), Apple AC Adapter (my MBP came with 61W but this model should have 87W), vertical stand, 10 port powered USB hub (replacing a 7 port powered hub I think might be conking out), and maybe a new laptop bag as my current bag from 2005 is a bit too large in 2018 and is showing moderate wear and tear.

AppleCare is worth it in my opinion. For one you have peace of mind, and two when you go to sell it you'll get a higher resale value.


Not sure why you think you need a lot of storage for coding... I'm a designer and front-end dev and it's not like you're constantly editing large 4k videos. I have the 512GB internal drive and supplement with a 500gb external SSD (https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-500GB-Extreme-Portable-SDSSDE60-500G-G25/dp/B078SWJ3CF) which is only $110 and works great. Definitely cheaper than upgrading your internals.

I bought it from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRC9B86

It's pretty affordable compared to other stands, 35 for sliver 45 for Space Grey. I love it so far and I am surprised it does not show up in Amazon searches when you look up stands.

I Don't have the 16 inch, but I have the 15 inch 2017 model. I have 3 27 inch 2k monitors and use them and the built in screen everyday.

I use this dock to connect all the monitors and peripherals and have one cable going to my MacBook.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Charging-Support-Power-Delivery-Thunderbolt/dp/B01FKTZLBS/ref=asc_df_B01FKTZLBS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7739158159097921200&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033594&hvtargid=pla-461427470761&psc=1

For a while I had issues with this dock under Mavericks, but Plugable updated their driver and have had no problems since. Been using one of these at home and one at the office, and I love it. Everyone in a while the dock will get confused and only show on one screen when I plug in my computer, but restarting the dock fixes this.

I also have used these docks for triple monitors on a MacBook Pro 13, MacBook 12, a Dell 13, and my daughters boyfriend comes over and plugs in his Windows laptop and it works great. Hell even my iPad Pro likes it, but the iPad only supports 1 external screen, so only one of the monitors will work then.

​

Edit; I should mention that I've been using these docks for 2 years without issue, and have bought 4 more for various users around the office, so my experience with them have been great.

Nice! Thank you for the information! I just ordered a single 8GB stick so now I'll be maxed out at 16GB. I might wait until the holidays/post holidays for the SSD. I was looking at the Samsung EVO 860 500GB one: Here. Thoughts on battery replacement? Are you up-to-date with the latest MBP? I wouldn't even know what to get if I were to buy a brand new one. Hence why I'd like to keep this thing around as much as I can. It's seems that this particular MBP is the the bottom model that can take new MacOS updates when they are released--haha.

Not sure if you mean a plastic snap on case or a sleeve, but this is the sleeve I use and it’s been pretty decent.

Tomtoc Laptop Sleeve for 12.3" Microsoft Surface Pro 5 /4 / 3 | Apple 13 Inch New MacBook Pro A1706 & A1708 | Dell XPS 13 | 11.6" Acer HP ASUS Chromebook Tablet, Support up to 11.97 x 8.36 I https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4ZRGBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LxuVAb4MR5D3F

It's not that, macOS system almost takes up 14 GB of space with other pre-installed apps taking up almost 4-5 GB. The reason I installed it on a HDD as I can do almost everything on macOS except Frontpage 2003(I need it for school) doesn't have a mac version. That's the only reason I installed Windows on a HDD. I'd say, buy an external HDD or an SSD and install Windows on that following the above. That's much better. You can buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-500GB-Extreme-Portable-External/dp/B078SWJ3CF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=512+GB+external+ssd&qid=1575065193&sr=8-3

I got a tomco one for my 13". It's a good fit. Nothing special about it but I put it in there and then into my bag for work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4ZRGBY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Mid 2012 as well and I upgraded the HDD to this. (Don’t think they have 750GB though)..


Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pb1PDbCW4T63K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUBQ710/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using this. Works great.

You don’t need a bunch of dongles. There are hundreds of options that combine all of them in to one.

I went with this Satechi adapter because it has anything I could need. They have cheaper versions with less ports too.

I also grabbed two of these Anker adapters in case I just wanted to plug in a single cable.

With these two options I can plug in 99% of accessories that I will ever need.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542079491&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Samsung+Evo+SSD&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory/dp/B006EWUO22/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=16gb+ddr3+ram&qid=1573992655&sprefix=16gb+ddr3&sr=8-3

And


https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sxin_5_af-pna-1_d956beec90beeb9e16d8c12ec162596ef3064ad8?keywords=512gb+ssd&pd_rd_i=B0781Z7Y3S&pd_rd_r=715b90ec-b65e-44ba-a1ba-a87423959d0c&pd_rd_w=8WBYx&pd_rd_wg=rRx1U&pf_rd_p=1fdea17d-89e6-4a5a-8265-7274aa8fa1c0&pf_rd_r=DVEP46XK54JZ216SVNSC&qid=1573992721&sprefix=512gb

Planning to take these 2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK2XL2F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUBQ710/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was just made aware today that a case can somehow mess with dissipating heat, which I guess makes sense, but my MBP rarely gets hot, so I have a case for it.

https://www.amazon.com/ProCase-MacBook-Release-Keyboard-Without/dp/B01N1JHPEF

Also comes with a keyboard cover. I've used both the case and keyboard cover for a little over three months, and I haven't had any problems.