Best products from r/machining

The others who have commented already hit the nail on the head, but since I'm currently sitting in a meeting, and a little bored, I'll expand a little bit...

Firstly: that's a great machine you've got there, consider me jealous, especially since you picked it up for cheap. There's a lot of really cool things you can do with a nice pantograph machine. If you're interested in learning a bit more about it, and seeing it in action, I'd highly recommend checking out Stefan Gotteswinter's YouTube channel, he's got several videos related to / utilizing this machine: Here's a list of his videos about the pantograph.

1. Rust Removal & Cleanup: /u/John_Hasler nailed it with EvapoRust, it's a really great product. For small parts, pour the EvapoRust into a plastic container, and soak the parts for a few hours (up to 12ish, depending on how bad the rust is). For Larger parts, especially big surfaces, get paper towels (I use Scott Shop Towels they're strong enough to not tear easily, and they have a fairly smooth surface texture which helps the process) and soak them in EvapoRust, then lay them on the surfaces to treat, trying to make sure you're getting full contact. Then cover / wrap with plastic wrap to prevent the towels from drying out. Let them sit overnight, and then remove them. EDIT: Also, make sure to degrease everything before using EvapoRust. Grease and oil greatly reduce its efficacy.
   
   After the EvapoRust treatment, you'll be left with a black film all over everything. I rinse everything off with distilled water, and then scrub / polish all the surfaces with Gray Scotch-Brite Pads. After this I rinse everything again with distilled water, and then follow that up by wiping everything down with acetone*
   
   
2. Corrosion Prevention & Protection: /u/ShimanoMan58 mentioned Fluid Film, which is what I'd use as well. Once you've got everything cleaned up really well, spray everything down with AS11 Fluid Film it will add lubricity to all the moving parts, it soaks into tiny areas, and dries to a hard, waxy film. This will protect all the surfaces against rusting, and should last about a year. On rotating components, such as the leadscrews in the X-Y positioning work table, I'd recommend using a high pressure molybdenum sulfide grease. For sliding surfaces, like the dovetail ways under the table, I'd use an actual way oil, such as Mobil Vactra Number 2, though I will say it can be annoyingly difficult to find in small quantities. Regular 30W Motor Oil will work, just not as well.
   
   Edit: Because I forgot to add this in earlier:
   
   * After cleaning with acetone make sure you oil everything shortly thereafter (ideally within minutes) to prevent flash rusting.

Two books that I've seen mentioned other places are Audel Basic Machine Shop, which gives an overview on various machines, what they do, etc.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/076455526X/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1

The next is basic blue print reading. Self explanatory.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/083113125X?pc_redir=1411016091&robot_redir=1
An aptitude for math and geometry is certainly a plus as well.

I personally haven't used either but they have great reviews. I do use peter smid's cnc programming textbook in shop quite often. My dad used to let me mill on wood with dull tools when I was a kid to learn the basics and principals. Grooming me for the family business if you will lol.
As far as moving up, just show the imitative and a willingness to learn. Community college classes can teach you a lot. Our industry is experiencing growth as far as need, and guys in our age bracket aren't interested in the work. As someone said, learning the maitence on the machines is a good first step. Be vocal about your desire to become a machinist but be courteous too.

So I'm not a machinist, just a lurker here but this is something I know about so I'll give my 2 cents. I sold these for several years and this is by far the best bit for drilling granite it's a dry bit and will work just fine that way or you can use water. It's designed for angle grinder use so it's good up to 12K rpm, and honestly the faster the better. The Alpha rep told me this, helps you get through the piece faster and keep the bit cool. Now it's designed for 1-1/4" countertops so maybe give it a cool off period after an 1" or so on your 3" surface plate, water will also help keep it cool. Feed pressure will be minimal as well as pushing too hard will glaze the diamonds and temper the matrix they are suspended in, they are designed to slough off and reveal the next layer of diamonds so getting it too hot will prevent that. It's 5/8-11 so you will need an adapter of some sort no doubt. Don't know if this helps or not.

I have a set of mitutoyo for my work, but for knock around and loaners I got these from amazon and I’ve been pretty happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ

There is a book series called, 'The Workshop Practice Series', one of the editions is about tool and cutter sharpening. Highly recommended.

There are a lot of books out there for sharpening knives and woodworking tools. Not directly applicable to metal tooling, but they tend to have sections about the science and physics of cutting and edge geometry that are useful and relatively universal.

Machinery's handbook also has good sections on tool and cutter geometry.

Ill see if I can get you some direct links.

Edit:

Article on drill point geometry

Tool and cutter sharpening book

Machinery's handbook

Other sharpening books:

Razor Edge book of sharpening

complete guide to sharpening

Quick searches for variations on 'tool and cutter sharpening' pulls up a lot of other books that look useful.

$50 is a pretty good deal. We use these at our shop. Quality is quite good, very durable.

https://www.amazon.com/INSIZE-1108-150-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B0191UUWKC

Yeah, the butcher block top is pretty great. I also separately bought a pair of these actual butcher blocks, that look similar, to add shelves to this table. I sprayed polyurethane on them, since for their intended use in a kitchen, you just leave the wood bare and apply mineral oil. For the upper shelf, I had to saw off the corners, and rip the edges, so it would fit to slide in diagonally. For the bottom one, I just drilled four holes. The castors I added hold it in place. (Those castors are lower profile than the ones the company offers with the table; I didn't want to raise it so much.)

There are TONS of extremely useful references out there, so many in fact that you will probably end up collecting more and more if you stay in the trade. for a start though, here's the shortlist of what you should probably have on hand:


The Machinists Handbook - A must have, doesn't matter what version they all pretty much have the same info - https://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-Toolbox-Erik-Oberg/dp/0831130911/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492269975&sr=8-1&keywords=the+machinist+handbook


Technology of Machine Tools - this is the main text that i use in the precision machining technology course that i'm currently taking; it is a hell of a reference - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0073510831/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Blue Print Reading - If you are not well versed in drafting/design, then pick up a copy of this as well as you will find it very useful - https://www.amazon.com/Blueprint-Reading-Machine-Russell-Schultz/dp/0132172208/ref=pd_sim_14_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0132172208&pd_rd_r=AE88BSK23EA606Z0QTCR&pd_rd_w=CxgNZ&pd_rd_wg=FWPUL&psc=1&refRID=AE88BSK23EA606Z0QTCR

Machinery's Handbook - 30th Edition. It's commonly referred to as the "Machinist's Bible". It's not so much an instructional book as it is a reference; however, I've learned so much from it. It's got detailed information on taps and dies, milling, turning, welding, heat treating, machine shop economics, mechanics and physics, measuring, properties of materials, and I could go on. It's kind of expensive, but it really is worth every dime. Look around online for good deals, I got mine (30th Ed - Toolbox Edition) for about $65 new on Jet.com. The only differences between the Large-Print and the Toolbox-Edition are the size of the book and the size of the print. The full size book is 7"x10" with larger print, and the toolbox is 7"x4.5" with fairly small print. They both have the exact same content. If you have poor vision, buy the full size for sure. If you're going to be a metalworker for a living, or even just a weekend machinist, you'll keep this book for the rest of your life.

These are the ones I have.
They work quite well and are excellent quality.

You can buy drill guides / tap guides, but honestly they're not necessary if you are careful.

We have a label maker already, which is nice. i was thinking along the plastic bin line, but we also want some way to keep the tools locked up. I was thinking of using something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OI545LI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00OI545LI&pd_rd_wg=uEbnw&pd_rd_r=HBTMDWR2GNERAS781002&pd_rd_w=x2uE2

This one still doesn't account for the smaller relay or thermal overload. I wouldn't be surprised if companies like this aren't real consistent with their documentation between models and over time. Another quick check would be ensuring there are 12 volts AC between terminals X1 and X2 of the transformer.

If all else fails, you can just replace the switch on that control shaft with a good old fashioned drum switch and ditch the rest of the wiring. The proper ones are expensive, but you can get a cheap one. I'd recommend keeping the e-stop. And you will have to remember that it doesn't have the the magnetic starter safety feature. (This works by using a relay wired as a latch so if the machine loses power, it won't restart by it's self when the power is restored.)

For homemade purposes, there are better options than real linear bearings. A wheeled "cart", spring-loaded to ride on a track, will work just fine and can be made cheaply. You can also use heavy-duty drawer slides.

Have you looked at the Shapeoko? They are using rolling "carts" on angled tracks.

also, http://www.amazon.com/Linear-Motion-Length-Chrome-Hardened/dp/B002BBJ0CA/

I ordered this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/076455526X?ref_=mw_olp_product_details