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I make my own rings. You can do this VERY cheaply. I started off cranking the ring by hand, but eventually moved on to a drill setup. I think it's helpful to follow the whole process from the start. There are some good videos out there.

Right now I have a metal rod that I drilled a hole into about two inches from the end. I put it in my drill like you would a bit(make sure you don't put too much stress on the motor). You feed the wire into the hole just enough that it catches and then you hit the drill. Do this slowly until you get the hang of it, and ware gloves. You will make what looks like a spring.

Get a good set of cutters, I use Knipex Cutters. The work great with 14g steel or smaller. I use Knipex there too, but I started with a cheapo set until I decided I wanted to do this seriously.

You can get Galvanized Steel wire at any farming supply store for about $60 for a half mile. That is plenty yo keep you busy. I posted a suit a couple days ago. With the pliers(on sale) and the supplies I spent less than $200 and it kept me busy for months.

If you are more interested in weaving and saving time making rings, then feel free to buy them. I personally like doing it all on my own and I can coil and cut pretty quickly now.

Just a different view.


Edit: The links are for information, I don't mean for it to look like I'm recommending vendors or anything.

1. You don't really want to pinch them closed. It's more of a twisting motion. This video shows how to open a (jump) ring; close it in reverse of the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlL_v622c8o
   
2. TRL (theringlord.com) is the best place to get rings in bulk with the best prices. If you're doing a big project, get all of your rings together since, due to the nature of the business of sourcing wire, colors from different batches tend to differ slightly.
   
3. I prefer using two different pairs of pliers. I use smooth-jaw, bent-nose (akin to this) in one hand and smooth-jaw, needle-nose (akin to this) in the other. These two types combine to give me many different ways to hold the rings, maneuver them into place, and twist them closed.
   
4. The ability to consistently get all of your closures flush (aligning the two "ends" of the ring) is paramount to the aesthetics, function, and longevity of your finished pieces.
   
   ​
   
   Also, you may want to check out www.mailleartisans.org, particularly the articles section since there are many weave tutorials as well as construction tutorials for shirts and whatnot. It will also be worthwhile to join the forums since many of the active users there are not active here. Oh, TRL also has a forum.
   
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   Edit: I keep editing to add more links.

I used to just coil the copper around a knitting needle or metal rod that I had measured to give me the correct ID for the rings. Since they didn't compress like dowels they were pretty reliable and reusable. Once I'd filled the rod I would slide it off and just use flush cut metal cutters (cost me like $4) to cut them by hand. Once you've practiced it a bit it's a pretty quick process and gives you almost no kerf because you're cutting exactly on the line for the gap. I had good luck with it for smaller gauge stuff. Cutting higher gauge is gonna kill your hands, but copper and reasonable sizes was nothing. So that might be an option for you.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-330-Electronic-Clippers-Powerful-Precision/dp/B07RW8VTSX

I don't know that specific one (I got mine at harbor freight for super cheap) but that style.

If you want to buy precut rings, I really like RingLord. Good quality, fast shipping, reasonable prices, lots of selection, and been doing it a while.

https://theringlord.com

I have three sets (six total) pliers: one pair for steel, which are cheap 'Pittsburgh' brand square jaw pliers with no teeth. Got them at Harbor Freight for $2 each. They're cheap, but reliable. One pair I took to a belt grinder and rounded it down to help prevent marring - most pliers with no teeth regardless have sharp edges.

The second pair aren't actually pliers per se, they're actually the Beadsmith Magical Crimper ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000SX1G9S?pc_redir=1410065544&robot_redir=1) and the jaws on these are fantastic for mailling. They're pretty small pliers though, so they're reserved for softer metals like aluminum, brass and copper.

The last pair are very, very fine tip needlenose jewelry pliers. I don't use them often because they're delicate, but I use them on the rare foray into micromaille.

This is a pretty awesome book. Lots of instructions on different weaves and inspiration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1620336596/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_13?colid=49HS3L6HM7UD&coliid=IIU28G7BNO1SP

I'm a bit late to the party, but I'm definitely going to second the recommendation for the Knipex Bolt-Cutter (amazon.com link).

I've done a lot of work with 18SWG SS (around 20,000 rings) and they've been fantastic.

I use Xuron 2193 wire shears, and they work great for me. As close to a flush cut as i've been able to get. They do warp the rings slightly, but I find that it's pretty easy to correct when opening/closing rings for weaving.

http://www.amazon.com/Eurotool-PLR-860-00-Parallel-Plier-Chain/dp/B0058EDXRU

These pliers might be helpful if you are having trouble closing the links. Unfortunately these have smooth jaws so they will slip more, but they are like a more useful version of the jump ring rings like this:

http://www.artbeads.com/tool-513.html

Actually, this might be better/cheaper. Searching Amazon for steel (or aluminum) jump rings can get you sets like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Housweety-Mixed-Stainless-Steel-4-10mm/dp/B00D5OQAGQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395174938&sr=8-3&keywords=jump+rings+steel

A nice small amount, perfect for playing and not a big expense if you think it's something you might not stick with.

This is what I've used for a piercing drift. It definitely works, my problem's just been the rest of my set-up. That, and piercing with nothing but a drift and a mallet is relatively slow work, demonstrating to me why historical armorers typically had apprentices or assistants to do this stuff for them.

That joggler tool definitely looks like it has potential too.

Do you do jewlrey? it looks like you've got quite a variety of rings!

fyi, you can actually trim amazon links down to something like http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/. The only important part is the dp and the code that comes right after it.

What's funny is, you're going to run out space with that REAL quick.

This is what I got for my larger rings

This is for my smaller rings

These are awesome for seeing things at a glance, and keeping a storage spot for them

For 16g 1/4, I use Irwin linemans ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JNNVUO?cache=d92fc65fd0178e75b996cd0a5b53f3a3&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1409252729&sr=8-6#ref=mp_s_a_1_6)

I've filed the teeth down, but they give fantastic grip on rings because of the short/stubby jaws. Remember that gripping force increases with bulldog, short nose pliers. Better grip = easier on hands, especially for a novice.

The reason that bent nose are so popular over needlenose is partially due to the fact that you can grab the ring in the bentnose closer to the pivotpoint on the pliers, thus more grip. (the other reason is that you have a more angled grip). I prefer the snubbies because the grip is even better.

For anodized rings, where you sacrifice grip to avoid damaging the coating, either the parallel flats someone linked below or something similar with no teeth at all.

For smaller ring sizes under 18g, Xuron snubnose.

Snips are alright but they do have a tendency to wear your hands down after a while... These are a little easier on your hands, although they have cut fewer rings at a time.

You do have an excellent way with words so good job with that, you make it very accessible.

Not bad, though a bit small. But it helped me find a box I might end up buying that's got much larger grid size (around 2.5x, so it can hold more than one bag of rings at a time): https://www.amazon.com/Rekukos-Organizer-Container-Adjustable-15%EF%BC%88Large%EF%BC%89/dp/B06XPGBC7Z

Thanks for the help!

You don't actually need 'chainmail' pliers. Some basic pliers from your local home center will be just fine. Like this set will be fine I think:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-84-114-Piece-6-Inch-Diagonal/dp/B0006HVU4W/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481595883&sr=1-2&keywords=pliers

Bonus crappy cutters as well!

I love these!!! I use them for everything!! Usually I get them from Michael's with a 40% off coupon.

Craft Mates Lockables 56 Double Extra Large (2 XL) Compartment Ultrasuede Large Organizer Case (Purple) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428A7QI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_beFVDbJGFSKWK

It's worth pointing out that theringlord has a 'best price' policy. If you find someone else selling the same thing for cheaper, they will beat the price by 10%.

If you want to make armor, I've been using these $7 pliers for my ~30,000 ring hauberk (shirt) and ~6,000 ring coif (head+neck). You can certainly buy better pliers, but if you want something that will just work while you see if you enjoy it, these will do just fine. I do not recommend them for smaller or weaker rings and the grips are not very ergonomic. These are the cheap, mass-produced pliers that will 'just work' until you get the experience to know what you want for your next pair.

The rings I've been working with are 1/4" inner diameter 16 gauge stainless steel which is a pretty typical size for armor.

One thing I've learned from working with these thicker stainless steel rings is if the rings aren't closing tightly, hold one ring with one plier so the gap is opposite the plier and use the other plier to squeeze the ring so the two ends slide about a millimeter past one another. If you force the ends past one another to close it, you will hear a click and the ends will be touching. A lot of advice out there is for thinner or aluminum rings and they advise pushing the ends together a bit while closing it. If you do this with thick stainless steel you will stab your hands when you lose grip. Save yourself the scabs and align the ends before closing stainless steel.

A jewelers saw is not going to be up to cutting steel that is that thick.

Some like this will cut wire like that - https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-71-12-200/dp/B005EXO81K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542121986&sr=8-3&keywords=knipex+8+inch+bolt+cutters&dpID=41fHxeM8n7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I can't comment on welders so I'll leave that to someone else.

I tend to do smaller ring, and micro mail, and use GoStak containers which are nice and portable:

https://www.amazon.com/BlenderBottle-GoStak-Storage-4-Piece-Starter/dp/B00CZAQIZ4

I keep my 18ga 3/16" rings in the taller ones.

16g 5/16" is the perfect size to learn on. The stainless is fairly easy to work with if you have the right tool.

I received a tip from a user on here for these: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Pliers-Linemans-2078915/dp/B000JNNVUO/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479237602&sr=1-5&keywords=irwin+vise+grip+lineman

And they're pretty awesome.

If you use those on anodized aluminum you'll kill the coating, so be sure to use pliers without teeth for that.

The machine cut rings from TRL are not a consistent color. I'd recommend getting the saw cut. little more money, but you'll end up with a better finished product.

you're probably going to spend hours and hours and hours working on something. don't waste your time with crappy materials.

stainless > galvy

bright anodized saw cut > machine cut

The only advantage to the machine cut aluminum i've found is that there is color where the cut is, but that color is not consistent ring-to-ring, so win some lose some i guess. having worked with both i won't buy the machine cut AA again.

good luck!