(Part 2) Best products from r/maker

Dupont connectors, fittings, crimper:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100PCS-Dupont-Jumper-Connector/dp/B00CGWUV6S/

http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Insulated/dp/B00DHCRVSC/

http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO86Z6Y/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100pcs-Dupont-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CGXOVM2/

Wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ24/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ2O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Exact products i bought. Didn't need the crimper exactly (could just use needle nose pliers), and the insulation on this wire is a little thick for the connectors (doesnt' quite fit into the black connectors when crimped around the insulation, but i wanted the heaviest gauge i could fit, 24 would probably fit better)

Some of the items shipped prime, some shipped from china, so 2 day shipping on the male connectors, and a month on the female. :-p

When looking to attach to a board make sure to measure the pitch, 2.54 is fairly standard, but there's always someone who uses 2mm or something else.

So they're actually already installed. I actually did all of this shop setup last year, but I'm just getting around to documenting it now.

You can see one of the fixtures in the photo in this post.

I used these bulbs from Hyperikon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5OA1U2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&th=1

There are definitely dimmable bulbs out there. The manufacturer claimed these were dimmable, I saw mixed results in Amazon reviews. I got some LED compatible dimmer switches. I found that I had to turn them on 100% to get them to start, but then I could dim them lower from there. So if I like it at 70%, I can't just leave it there because it won't start.

I ended up just installing normal switches - it turned out not to be a big deal. Having all 36 bulbs on is perfect. I turn off half of them at late at night to make it a bit more dim.

Step 1 - check if you have a local hackspace/makerspace that you can visit. They frequently have all kinds of people, equipment, skills, and knowlage - our one in Manchester UK (hacman.org.uk) has all sorts of equipment. You can take a look if there's one near you here:

https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces

Step 2 - research. What equipment is out there, what the costs are, and what your students and teachers are interested in. Maker projects in school work fantastically when they flow with classes, like models of the solar system when studying space, MP3 players for listening to amd recording sounds for a music class, or wearables for your textiles class. But this does require engagement with at least a few teachers!

Step 3 - budget and plan. 3D printers, laser cutters, arduinos, can all be had at a decent price if you know where to look (aliexpress.com will both save your budget and kill your wallet through the buying of shiny things). Arduino vairents can be had from China for £1.50, which is a huge bargin in comparison to buying them off the shelf at Maplins or Radioshack, especially if you happen to be buying 100.

If you're plannimg longer term, plan for what equipment you can aquire when, and remember software, parts, and maintinance costs. With 3D printing, software can be a big issue, but with most laser cutting, the open source Inkscape software is more than enough - but on the counterside laser tubes are glorified florecent tubes and need replacing every so often, and 3D printers just need gloop for the print bed and occationally the unjaming of the printhead.

That kind of information is why you really need to talk to your local hackspace and get some local knowlage and experiance, especially when rolling this kit out in a school.

As for wearable tech, this book might interest you - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Switch-Craft-Alison-Lewis/dp/0307395448

good video. you should check out plastic razor blades. super helpful in peeling acrylic!

https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=plastic+razor+blades&qid=1574494005&sr=8-4

Thanks!

I have n channel that will do for now, but ideally I would like a smoother on/off transition. Do you have any links for self contained modules or is this something I need to make myself?

I would be looking to deliver 2-10amps voltages under 20.


Update

I was looking at the following for starters. I can hook up my generator and PSU to it

https://www.amazon.com/Qunqi-Controller-Module-Stepper-Arduino/dp/B014KMHSW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?keywords=h+bridge+module&qid=1570973047&sprefix=h+bridge&sr=8-10#

I bought a copy, I'm excited to put it together. As an aside, have you ever considered making a clock, like in this book?. It would probably turn out pretty cool looking

Aoyue 936
I use this and love it. Super solid and excellent customer service.

I bought the exact one you linked to in order to dissect. Inside is a metal wire about 1/8 in. / 6mm thick and the wire body is square (i.e. with four flat sides and 90 degree angles as opposed to round like most wire). It was surprising to me that "wire" this thick would bend so easily.

I should note that I don't know if this particular wire was indicative of all coated wire used in goosenecks. Also, the gooseneck in the Amazon link sucked compared to the strength AND flexibility of the one in my original picture, which also came from AMZ - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNPXUPS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cool idea!

If you want to get all the bubbles out, you might try using something like plumber's strapping to attach a back massager to a board. Let it sit on that for a while. A vibrating sander can also work.

A 50/50 mix of tung oil & citrus solvent makes a really good non-toxic sealant for cement. I've found that covering mold surfaces (I've only made larger molds,) in packing tape results in a glass-smooth finish. I keep meaning to make a glass-lined mold to see how that works.

You know, all in all, it would probably be easier to just get the $100 Makita radio. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QN40TOY/ref=twister_B01N04JUKT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

No bluetooth, but I'm ok with that. Aux wire would have better quality anyway.

I think I saw this idea on /r/3dprinting. It came out pretty awesome.
3d printed deathstar atop a levitron.
I used black PLA filament with my Ultimaker 2, then I just painted a white base coat and covered with a coat of grey.

Credit to Hendo420 for his dope Death Star model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1196020

The Levitron was purchased from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HA73QRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why not use liquid cooling to cool the hot side. You can buy a 12v pump and radiator from amazon for pretty cheap. Use some distilled watter or go to the auto parts store and get some 50/50 coolant mix to use as your water.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CFDS3JA/ref=pd_aw_sim_86_of_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51rhpxdBbHL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0NSK3KQDG9HEX5CZ3CCG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KL1JWZC/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41C3Y3HETBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=11GJJF64G0Q12S7ZKAZG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51%2BSjl5kQuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0F1SXP8YEDX30DBWC4DF

You're probably biting off more than you'll really want to chew with learning Arduino on a project like this.

Ring signal is 90VAC - 20Hz, which might be a bit tricky for you to detect without interfering with the line. I'd probably use a canned package for that. TI makes one (TCM1520A), but it's SMD. Want to learn soldering on a $12 IC?

Also, radios are a bit of a dark art. I'd probably do this with NRF24l01 radios (get the ones with external antennas, it's worth it if you want range beyond 50cm!), but expect to have to do a lot of screwing around to get them talking reliably.

Are you sure you wouldn't rather just buy some and put them where the phone jacks are?

I bought this guy and it looks and sounds very similar the one in the video.

Tacklife SGP15AC Advanced Electric Spray Gun 800ml/min Paint Sprayer with Three Spray Patterns, Three Nozzle Sizes,Adjustable Valve Knob, and Easy Filling 900ml Detachable Container https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y3QKQY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RoN7CbXWVPMFB

Have been happy with it. Used it to spray my kitchen cabinets.

I've come across a few human factors book with a good set of data. If I remember correctly this represents data analysed and collected by US army in the 70s and the data is heavily biased towards Caucasian bodies.

I would like to avoid OCR and parsing it. If anyone knows any openly available dataset it would be really helpful.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "few"



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