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Step 0: Read this entire tutorial several times.

Step 1: Remove the strings. If this will cause the bridge to fall off, mark the body where the bridge is EXACTLY with masking tape.

Step 2: Determine if the crack runs over any bracing on the underside of the top, and if that bracing has been damaged. You can do this several ways; I use a small mirror and a flashlight looking at that crack, and the bracing. Do a google image search for what mandolin bracing looks like, and you'll know those little spines are what you'll be looking for.

Turn off the lights in the room you're working in and use the light to see if there are other cracks as well.

If the bracing is cracked, you'll have to fix that too. It's just as important as the top.

Step 2: You will need to purchase a bottle of Titebond glue, some cheap superglue, a pack of neodymium magnets (cheap on [amazon]https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517603237&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=deodymium+magnets)), a big roll of masking tape (get a name brand), a roll of string, a pair of safety goggles, some nitrile gloves, a paper towel or two, and two to three popsicle sticks to do this on the cheap. You also want a towel you don't care for as well as a table that you'll be able to use for a few days.

Instead of a roll of string, you can purchase clamps that extend from one side of the mandolin to the other. String is cheap, and luthiers have used it for hundreds of years.

I use Titebond II for my repairs, but I or III should be just as good. Depending on how old the instrument is, it may have originally used Hide Glue, if you want to keep the original glue type.

The tops of guitars and other instruments that use the top as a reverberation device (the "tonewood") are usually made of Sitka Spruce. The Janka Hardness Scale shows Sitka Spruce as:

Janka Hardness: 510 lbf (2,270 N)

The Janka Hardness scale of a popsicle stick (usually Baltic Birch) which isn't actually a wood, but a grade of wood. It means that, generally, popsicle sticks are pretty variable hardness from stick to stick.

Approximate substitutes to show variability:

Yellow Birch -- Janka Hardness: 1,260 lbf (5,610 N)

Paper Birch -- Janka Hardness: 910 lbf (4,050 N)

The hardness of very hard woods is in the 10- or 20,000 N, so we are far from that.

This is important to note because you generally want the same hardness wood as the original top was made with to patch cracks in the top, so that the tone resonates properly to avoid deadening the sound. As Baltic birch is not much harder, but easily obtainable, it will serve as our "cleat".

Step 3: Tape up the corners of the instrument (where the top meets the sides) with three layers of masking tape, and also tape around the edge of the break as absolutely close as you can get with as little wood showing as possible. Patience is key at this point, and you don't want to mess up the top or the corners, or cause more issues. When you get to laying glue out, things happen quickly, so be sure that everything is very close at hand.

Step 4: Cut 3 pieces of a popsicle stick about an inch long a piece. Round the corners on these three inch-long pieces of popsicle stick. You now have 3 popsicle stick cleats. These three are all you'll need, but we have extra sticks just in case you lose them or butcher one.

Step 5: Tape the top of the magnets with a square of tape that more or less covers the top of the magnet. Lay a generous dot of the cheap superglue on the back of the tape that is covering the magnet, and put a second square of tape on top of that so that the sticky side is up. This is your clamp and tape sandwich.

From the bottom to the top, your sandwich looks like: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air.

Do this for three magnets.

Place your three inch-long popsicle stick ovals onto the sticky side of the tape.

Your sandwich now looks like, from bottom to top: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air, popsicle stick cleat.

Step 6: Lay the mandolin down on the towel that's on the table, with the neck to the left. Position the masking tape under the neck to support the neck. If it doesn't reach, stick a few rags or an old shirt under there til it's nice and pillow-y soft, and supports the neck.

If you have clamps, ensure are padded and ready.

If you're using string: Tie a fist-sized loop in the string, so that you can pass your hand and the entire roll of string freely through the loop. Position this loop on the other side of the mandolin, with the rest of the string and the ball extending toward you under the mandolin.

Step 7: This is where the fun begins. Ensure you have the next hour free of distractions. This will go quickly.

The cleats will be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin. The grain of the top of the mandolin is usually from the tailpiece to the neck. The goal is to not only position the cleats directly underneath the crack, but have the long side of the cleat going from where you're sitting to where the loop of string is. This will ensure a strong bond and ensure that it doesn't break again.

This cleat will be on the underside of the top of the mandolin, so do a test run of placing the three (dry) magnet sandwichs underneath the crack, and placing the other three magnets at equal intervals along the crack. These will be your cleat clamps.

If you're using bar clamps instead of the string, try a dry run of using them to squeeze the sides of the mandolin together now. Not too much pressure - don't crack the corners or sides.

This is the time to get this correct. When you think you've got the idea down, remove the dry run pieces and get ready for gluing.

Step 8: Place titebond on the tops of the cleats. Rub it around with your finger. You don't want too little or too much; you want just enough that the glue will stick and set.

Glue your mandolin crack with the titebond. You don't want too little; Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Position the cleats under the crack on the inside of the mandolin at equal intervals, with the grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin, and clamp up with the magnets. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

Clamp up the sides so that the crack comes together. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

If you're using string, take the ball of string and run it through the loop. Start wrapping from top right to bottom left, then bottom left to top right of the mandolin body. Move inward to the center of the body. Your goal here is to ensure a tight clamping and the crack to be sealed. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Work slowly but purposefully.

Step 9: Let this sit for 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't fiddle with it. Leave it alone.

Step 10: After 24 hours, unwrap it or take the bar clamps away, take the magnets away (carefully peeling the tape away) leaving only the cleats on the underside, and clean up any popped-out glue seam that you see with a carefully placed blade, ensuring you don't scratch the top of the mandolin.

Restring, and it's fixed!

Or you can take it to an instrument repair shop and they'll do allll this for you.

Okay, so...

Watching the clip /u/TheJiggersUp posted below, I don't see him playing his mandolin, so I don't have much to offer on style... I would presume he's going to play in a more classical/European style, as opposed to an American, bluegrass-oriented style. He has a bowlback mandolin rather than a flat-back or carved-top style instrument, but I don't know of any playable bowlback models that cost ~$100.

What does exist is the Rogue RM-100A which is a not-great but more-or-less playable mandolin for under $100. (Some individual instruments seem to be better than others, but it's just a luck-of-the-draw thing.) If you were to get one, you'd also do well to get some different strings for it, get a decent pick designed for mandolin (a guitar pick won't work well for this instrument), and maybe consider having it professionally set up (or possibly even trying to do the work yourself... perhaps someone else can point me to the book available on setting up a Rogue to be less awful.) I would also highly recommend getting a chromatic tuner; you spend quite a bit of time tuning this instrument, and as a beginner, it's really helpful to have one of these. If you have a smartphone, a metronome app would also be a good thing to get; otherwise, there are a million cheap, electronic metronomes on the market.

So the Rogue is a cheap, low-quality instrument -- NOT a good instrument, just the least-bad at the sub-$100 price range -- but it can get you started. I know, because that's how I started. It's designed for bluegrass more than traditional mandolin music, but you can learn the rudiments of any/every style on it.

After that, to just start learning how to play, I recommend Don Julin's book. Yes, it's "for Dummies." It's still an excellent beginner's book. He focuses primarily on American styles, but he also covers other mandolin traditions, and when you're first starting out you really just need to learn the basics no matter what style you favor. He also does some nice intro-level youtube lesson videos. There are lots and lots of other mandolin lessons available on youtube, too, and are a decent way to start out if you can't afford private lessons.

Finally, start saving up some money for a better instrument. Sooner than you can imagine, you will reach the point where the Rogue can no longer keep up with you, and begins to hinder your progress, so you need the upgrade to keep learning. The most common recommendations I see are the Eastman 304 or 305 and the Kentucky KM-140. Both are solid student instruments that will serve you well for a long time, and both can be had with professional set-up and a hard case for ~$450. I have an Eastman 305 myself and I adore it. Or perhaps there's a more traditional bowlback model out there that you'd like better, if you aim to play that way. I know very little about those.

It's a great instrument, and fun to learn. And it's entirely possible to come from zero background with stringed instruments and still make good progress. Good luck!

Edit: Oh, also... certainly it would be a good thing to learn (or re-learn) how to read standard musical notation, but a lot of mandolin music is available in tablature (or tab), which is a much easier system to use and doesn't require the ability to read music. The Julin book I linked to above uses both.

Edit 2: Also, here's a recent thread on the Rogue, just so you can see some other people's opinions.

A couple of things:

1. • You are doing great and have clearly come a long way.
     
2. • I'm not sure how old you are but you appear to have large hands for your age/size/gender and seem pretty comfortable with your pinkie
     
3. • your timing/rhythm seems pretty good
     
4. • The instrument will feel more stable if you get a strap. It doesn't need to be anything fancy but you shouldn't have to hold up the mandolin with your fretting hand. You should be able to let go of the neck and have it stay in place.
     
5. • You have good playing posture. I'm assuming you are sitting when you practice. If not, please do. See this video but keep your good posture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmagoBQunZI
     
6. • The pick you are using is too thin. Generally, mandolinists use 1.5 mm picks with rounded corners. I recommend this as a cheap pick with good tone: https://www.amazon.com/DAndrea-PRO-346-Rounded-Triangle-12-Piece/dp/B000EEJFN0
     
7. • Even though your timing is pretty good, you should practice some of the time with a metronome. This really helps to build better rhythm.
     
8. • When working on a song or tune, try not to stop when you mess up. Stopping during a song is a bad habit. Using a metronome or backing tracks, instead, try to catch up. Mistakes happen all the time. Learning how to keep going is an important skill.
     
9. • you need to work on your picking hand. A lot of great players plant their pinkies like you do, but it isn't recommended. It also looks like you are holding the pick between the tip of the index finger. Your index finger should be curled. Like this: http://www.beimborn.com/stc/sm_pick_on_mandolin.jpg
     
10. • Try to get off the page. The more you can internalize the music you are playing, the better. Reading music can be a crutch. Try to commit the exercises to memory.
      
11. • I always encourage newer players to find a jam in their area that is beginner friendly. Playing with others is fun, improves your ear and speeds learning.

The thing that strikes me about MM when listening to his instructional videos on YouTube is that when talking music (not posture, not technique, but notes) he talks like an improviser... which can be hard to follow if you don't already know lots of scales and chord progressions. "So in this lick you can throw in a C here, which gives it a little bluesy sound." "Well why the hell does it DO that, Mike?" So I've been a little reluctant to sign up for his courses. Awesome player, but communication-wise, might be better to learn from someone who has had to articulate all of this stuff for themselves because it didn't come naturally.

For theory: You may want a book. You could go for a straight-up music theory book, but for something geared towards mandolin, I think that the book by Horne and Fugate did an okay job on theory. Mike Marshall also publishes an "Improvisational Concepts" book for mandolin (look at Elderly.com for it, I think). It is a little sparse, but if you are willing to work with the exercises and design some of your own it can work. Pretty bluegrass specific, but I think this book is outstanding, lots of depth, slowly ratchets up your improv level.

For technique: Watch videos and mimic. Video yourself practicing (it helps!)

Learning random songs: There is a lot to be said for learning random songs as a tool for learning theory...as long as you are consciously connecting it to the theory, rather than just playing tab. I like the Jethro Burns mandolin book for this reason. It looks mostly like a big collection of songs...but Jethro is the absolute freaking master of licks, turnarounds, and finishes. If you spend some time figuring out how his licks work with the chord progressions and melody you will not be sorry.

I got a $60 mandolin for christmas and I've been practicing every day since. It's been serving me very well as training wheels! I also recommend getting a snark tuner, it makes tuning a breeze and with a cheap mandolin that goes out of tune pretty quickly its worth it. Here's the link, hope this is helpful! http://www.amazon.com/Rogue-RM-100A-A-Style-Mandolin-Black/dp/B003LHV1X4/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1451520688&sr=8-12&keywords=mandolin It sounds great to me.

Btw, there are tons of websites and youtube videos to learn with. I jump around but I really enjoyed MandoLessons,com.
Good luck!

I had a 'The Loar', and they're pretty consistent with pacrim mandolins. Top is thick, not really tap tuned, too much of a coat, so it can be hard to get a nice woody tone out of it. Here are the things I've found.

Don't use coated strings. It's tempting because they last longer, but they tend to be a little brittle sounding.

Your pick makes a big difference. You don't need a Blue Chip, but most guitar picks will add the top end you're fighting. These are a perfect option and value: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JB4WAR2/ref=twister_B072HH4W6C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Set your action up as high as you can stand. It's not as comfortable, but the more downward pressure on the bridge, the more volume and tone projected. Don't allow it to hinder your progress on the instrument, but it does help. Adjusting your bridge height will cause you to need to adjust your intonation by moving your bridge slightly. There's a lot of videos of this on YT.

Don't assume anything is right because it's how it came. These things ship pretty awful from the factory. I bought mine from amazon and the first one they shipped didn't have a truss rod at all. Totally missing; sent it back. The second had it screwed up, as you'll see in the video below. Bridge was backwards.

Get a Tonegard. You can't afford the nasality of a dead back. They also help by providing side pressure, which can help the instrument stay open. Here are a few tests-walk up to a corner so you can hear the sound bounce back. Play with it pressed against your belly, and play with out away from your body. Tonegard keeps it off your body. You'll also notice that squeezing the sides (reasonably) will help it open up. A lot of violin players swear by this. People are split on tonegards, but I think they're pretty crucial for getting the most out of a beginner instrument..and can always move to your new instrument when you jump.

Here's the video of Jerry Rosa setting my The Loar up that i sent him (LM-590). I don't have it anymore, but it did help a lot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdORdyv5enU

Honestly, [I bought a rogue off amazon for my niece and nephew] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002H0KG0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and was amazed at how solid an instrument it was for the price.

The action is set very low, so it's easy to play, and it projected pretty well. I would definitely give it a go. I play an Eastman MD515, and while it's obviously a much nicer instrument, it's not like it's night and day.

Hi there, I tried a variety of picks when I started my mando journey, but once I found these I haven't looked back: https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Primetone-Triangle-Sculpted-Plectra/dp/B00JB4WAR2

They instantly helped to improve my tone and are very comfortable to hold. Good luck, buddy!

There's not as formal of a progression with mandolin as there are with more established jazz/classical instruments. I think the closest that you're going to find would be a book like The Complete Mandolinist. It has a decidedly classical bent to it, but it's a single book but it was created to be used progressively rather than a random selection of tunes.

I've also heard good things about Horne's series. but they are well reviewed. More folk/bluegrassy oriented.

It doesn't answer your question, but depending on your level and what you're looking for, there are two books that I have that are more exercise oriented that focus on a progressive approach to learning imrpovisation and the fretboard-- Esichman's getting into Jazz Mandolin has years worth of exercises to develop a Jazz vocabulary and fretboard knowledge.

And Petersen's Guide to Bluegrass Improvisation focuses on building a bluegrass improv vocabulary.

Sorry I don't have much more help, but I don't know if there is a correct answer to this one.

I use these for bluegrass picking. I thin out the bottom edge a bit with a fingernail file and smooth it down, and it's pretty well perfect for my otherwise crappy mandolin playing. This is an extra thick pick, and took a little trouble getting used to. But once you get the hang of it, a thinner pick just won't do.

Except for classical playing, where I prefer a little thinner and smaller pick, like these. Since I hold the pick a little different between bluegrass and classical playing, these work out great for the other pick grip for Calace-style.

Thanx for the feedback.

I got a hold of a friend who's coming back from the US, and I feel I can get him to get me a Mandolin.

Now I'm confused between the Doner DML100 and the Ibanez M510

There's almost $50 between them, but I haven't read anything negative about the Doner and Im wondering if paying $50 extra for the Ibanez makes any sense?
Both are solid top instruments, one is mahogany the other is spruce. While spruce makes better sounds, is it really noticeable on these budget instruments?

Another thing going for the Doner is that it apparently comes setup from the factory while the Ibanez needs some work before you can get it in top shape. Is it really a big deal?

https://www.amazon.com/Mandolin-Pickers-Guide-Bluegrass-Improvisation/dp/078668237X

Do you want a theory book, go over pentatonics/3 minor scales, chords to learn after major/minor triads? The above is really good, but you can learn that from a lot of books in yoru library, this is another https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Theory-Dummies-Online-Instruction/dp/1118646770/

The other, non theory way to go is to listen to lots of version of, say, Whiskey before breakfast, hear all the melody, harmonic and rhythmic variations and incorporate that into your playing without thinking "oh year, this picker really like mixolydian"

Yup.

Mandolin generally works better with a thick pick. People really love the Blue Chip picks and I do, too. I ordered several.

However, Dunlop has a basically IDENTICAL pick that instead of costing $35 a pick costs around $2 per: the Dunlop Primetone Triangle 1.5mm Sculpted Plectra.

Highly recommend.

Late on this thread...

But is this the mandolin you have?

http://www.amazon.com/Rogue-RM-100A-A-Style-Mandolin-Sunburst/dp/B0002H0KG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427687597&sr=8-1&keywords=rogue+mandolin

I'm trying to search for a good one to start on to see if I really get into it like I have with guitar. I also just like exploring instruments and seeing what all is out there. It would also be cool if I could get a mandolin and play with some people that have banjos and guitars and stuff like that!

I'm just worried that I will get it and not be able to set it up correctly. Did you have any problems with this?

I recently picked up a copy of this book and have been extremely pleased with the approachability for newcomers as well as the depth of lessons as you get more advanced http://www.amazon.com/presents-Mandolin-Pickers-Bluegrass-Improvisation/dp/078668237X

Gives you exercises to help you learn the scales and theory behind what you're playing as opposed to just a lead sheet or fakebook.

My instructor started me out on "Folksongs and Ballads Popular in Ireland" for exactly that purpose. There are four volumes and I bought the first two: https://www.amazon.com/Folksongs-Ballads-Popular-Ireland-Vol/dp/0946005001 They've been useful to me.

Additionally, there's an app I found on iTunes store you might find helpful as you learn notes on the mando fretboard: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/fret-trainer-learn-fretboard/id1279576225?mt=8

Finally, just remember lines: E-G-B-D-F, spaces F-A-C-E.

sites to help

www.mandolincafe.com

chordlist.brian-amberg.de/en/mandolin/

www.chordie.com

www.folkofthewood.com

this is the book i started with and i think it definitely helped me get a good grasp on playing.

http://www.amazon.com/Beginning-Mandolin-Book-Greg-Horne/dp/0739034715

watch your right and left hand technique from the beginning. don't wanna pick up any bad habits that will require more effort to fix down the road.

Learn your scales.
you can learn them by remembering major scales move in the order of WHOLE STEP > WHOLE STEP > HALF STEP > WHOLE STEP > WHOLE STEP > WHOLE STEP > HALF STEP.
Minor scales move in the order Whole step - half step - whole step - whole step - half step - whole step - whole step

I'm by no means a great mandolin player, but I was happy with Beginning Mandolin by Greg Horne.

In my blueglass ensemble class we used 50 Tunes for Mandolin, Vol. 1: Traditional, Old Time, Bluegrass & Celtic Solos by Mark Geslison. Here's the Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mel-Bay-Tunes-Mandolin-Vol/dp/0786664649/ . Looks like there's a newer version here: https://www.amazon.com/50-Tunes-Mandolin-Traditional-Bluegrass/dp/0786687487 . Includes staff notation, tablature, and audio. Has a nice variety of tunes.

I LOVE these.

I really dig these Golden Gate picks. http://www.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-Deluxe-Tortoise-Mandolin/dp/B0052S3WFU

That is a 12 pack, about $1 per pick. Nice and thick, good shape.

Rogue RM-100A A-Style Mandolin Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LHV1X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TxuQCbM7VTZ1F

Above is what I have, and so far it’s been great to learn on! Also available:

Rogue RM-100A A-Style Mandolin Sunburst https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002H0KG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZyuQCb8VEN2TD

Savannah SA-100-BK A-Model Mandolin, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WDQ5GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.zuQCbG11VF2C

Do you have prior experience with stringed instruments? If so I strongly suggest The Mandolin Picker's Guide To Bluegrass Improvisation, and Getting Into Jazz Mandolin, the don't require a lot of experience, but you might struggle if you have none at all. I'm sure some ones suggested Mandolin Cafe, but If you are a complete beginner, Folk of the Wood Is another good place to start.

[Just Bought this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Mandolin--Style-Holes-Sunburst/dp/B0002H0KG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1302032932&sr=8-2) and I love it.

[His awesome mando book] (http://www.amazon.com/Bays-Complete-Jethro-Burns-Mandolin/dp/0786665378/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1345217761&sr=8-5&keywords=Jethro+burns)

I considered starting with a kit for my first build but then I decided fuck it, I want the fun of shaping the wood so I bought the Siminoff F5 book http://www.amazon.ca/Ultimate-Bluegrass-Mandolin-Construction-Manual/dp/0634062859 and had at er. Good decision in retrospect. I didn't have a lot of specialty tools to start but I bought what I needed when I needed it.

I'll throw in my 2 cents - the Golden Gate is my favorite so far: https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-Deluxe-Tortoise-Mandolin/dp/B0052S3WFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550528566&sr=8-1&keywords=golden+gate+mandolin+pick#customerReviews