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Standing them up is totally possible. If what you're looking for here is their ultimate viability, that's also a equally valid question. If you select ones with minimal root ball disintegration, they will be the ones most likely to survive.

I'm of the school of thought that planting a maladapted, non-native is often a losing proposition. This is a pretty good example. Casuarina as a species can generally grow to heights that are inappropriate for sandy soils subject to high winds. If you are ever given an opportunity and very likely a grant, you could rehab this place with native plants suitable for an ecological niche called Mesic Rockland Hammock, Tropical Hammock Flatland with limestone substrate -- No, I swear I did not make that up. Anyway, that's just pie-in-the-sky wishful thinking; enough of that. Here's how to fix the problem at hand.

• Get some appropriate tools like a chainsaw and a couple of machetes, you're also going to need two colors of flagging tape
  
  
  
• Select the trees that look like their roots were disturbed the least and whose tops were not broken. Tie a piece of flagging tape on these that signifies a good tree -- maybe use florescent green tape for these.
  
  
• Now, select all the trees that are clearly beyond salvage;mark these trees with red florescent tape. What you are looking for in these bad trees is the ability to make polls -- you will need two polls for each good tree you are going to save.
  
  
• Cut the bad trees down as close to the root color as practical (this is a bike path so you don't want a lot of stumps I assume), trim off all the branches and cut them to 6'-7' lengths. Ideally, you want the polls to be about as thick around as baseball bat, much thicker will be too hard to work with, and much thinner won't be strong enough
  
  
• Using the machete very carefully, sharpen one end of the poll so that it can be easily driven into the ground.
  
  
• Use the techniques described in this video for staking newly transplanted trees.
  
  
  A motivated crew of a half dozen people could probably stake a couple of hundred trees over a weekend. Planting trees is a selfless gift to future generations. You are a Mensch I hope this helped.
  
  [Edit: Typos and format]

Not a true jade, but rather portulacaria afra, aka Elephant Bush. Super cute, though. If you want it to last for a few years, it will need to be on the sill of a bright window or get supplemental lighting with a good grow light. You could buy a dedicated grow lamp (but then you’d have to put up with that awful purple light), otherwise a gooseneck desk lamp with a 100 watt equivalent CFL daylight (6500k) bulb (not LED) placed a few inches above the plant should work ok.

How long has it been in the cup? As long as you were able to salvage any roots it should be fine. If you weren't able to save any roots it will be a lot harder but not impossible. Get a spray bottle and wet the plant once daily, the higher your able to keep the humidity the better off you will be. Good luck!

If it has no roots I would recommend a clone dome to help with your humidity. Something like this.

EarlyGrow 70738 Medium Domed Propagator, 15" x 9" x 7", Black/Dark Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BOY6Y2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_znfozbMDJEAHV

This is good news! Transplanting errors in depth are usually much worse than than 1/2 inch, so you're in good shape. Pulling the grass and perhaps some of the soil back a few feet, along with a 2-3 inch mulch ring will certainly help.

I'm sure your maple will be just fine. We have a nearly mature maple that does this every year , to greater or lesser extent (particularly since it's on higher ground with more runoff), despite growing seasons with plentiful moisture. It's a varying combination of heat stress, scorch and inadequate water. Many trees tend to show their displeasure in this way on the ends of their branches, where the leaves are often shrunken, shriveled and drying from the edges as you've pictured. You may wish to pick up a soil moisture meter, something like this, to be certain your new tree is getting watered deeply enough, particularly once your mulch layer is in place.

Have a great autumn!

very cool! This book is great too: http://www.amazon.com/Bark-Intimate-Look-Worlds-Trees/dp/0711231370. My favorites out here in Norcal are pacific madrone and manzanita. Bet you would love em'

What helped me when learning plant names was learning a bit of Latin along with it. I'll use my dad's old copy of Dictionary of Word Roots and Combining Forms to check out what some of the species names mean. For example, Cornus sericea (Red osier dogwood) is named as such because the leaves are silky. Which I hadn't really noticed before with my run ins with that plant, but more associations makes it easier to remember. Good luck!

I would hope so- he literally wrote the book on tree pruning. Yes, he spoke at my state arborist association. He's a really fun guy to watch. He publishes in the ISA journal of studies thing too if you get those.

Edit: Hope to see you next week mattwisconsin.

ya, too late for ladybugs i think.

ive had good luck with general purpose and food safe soaps too: https://www.amazon.com/Safer-Brand-5118-Insect-Killing/dp/B00192AO90

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-GH2045-4-Ounce-AzaMax/dp/B0032JYKGG

Neem Oil is good but imo pretty stinky/musty smelling.

There is a great book I read a few years back about the search and discovery of these massive trees. It's called The Wild Trees. Highly recommend it if anyone is interested in a personal/detailed account of the history of the discovery of these.

wow, this is a crap ton of data on that site! I can't even figure out how to find those 3 things. Anyway, can I just pick up a test kit from Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/

I'm lazy and getting stuff shipped to my home is easier than taking soil somewhere, lol

I highly recommend The Sibley Guide to Trees even though it doesn't fit your criteria. The hand-drawn illustrations are fantastic, and Sibley believes in a holistic approach to identification: he describes and illustrates bark, twigs, flowers/fruits, and even the silhouette of the species. And it is fairly extensive, with many non-native trees.

Sibley has no dichotomous key, unfortunately, and is organized by family. I usually flip through the book until I find something that matches. After flipping through enough times, you start to pick up on traits of each family and can use the quick index to skip around. This is definitely my favorite book out of the half dozen I have.

Bark is only one small part of the story for winter tree ID, such as the world of branch ID. Branching patterns, leaf scars, buds and bud scale characteristics, hell even the taste of certain twigs will give clues. It can be hard to go on just bark because a single species can have such variable bark patterns.

For example, a young and mature shagbark hickory.

I find it hard to ID trees solely based on their bark until I've been in a certain patch of woods for long enough where I pick up on the patterns of what each tree is. But when I first get into those woods, I kind of have to reteach myself what some of the bark patterns look like for whatever species are present.

And hey, since you're "close to Michigan," my favorite guide is Michigan Trees. Great illustrations and descriptions of things that I described in my first paragraph. Was my go-to when I was learning tree ID.

Thanks I really like it too! [I got it on amazon!](Artificial Resin Skull Head Flower Pot Plant Bowl Container Garden Planter Multifunctional Tabletop Storage Tank Replica Skeleton Model Home Bar Table Decor Halloween Ornament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NNHNQQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

it's very easy to grow trees, it's actually more difficult to kill some, many factors involved from species, soils, climate, moisture. Longevity however, depends on every step along the way. Things that you may think simple, harmless or even beneficial because they accomplish your(and the consumers) desired effect have a long term consequence. I think you still have some misconceptions about what is healthy for a tree and what is not. https://www.amazon.com/100-Tree-Myths-Alex-Shigo/dp/0943563119 this could ba a starting point for you.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1584658525?keywords=bark%20tre%20identification&qid=1452911049&ref_=sr_1_sc_1&sr=8-1-spell

That one? Looks very nice!

You should check this book out. Kinda fun to take on a winter walk in the woods in New England.

https://www.amazon.com/Bark-Field-Guide-Trees-Northeast/dp/1584658525