Best products from r/mazda6

I did this project on my 2017 Mazda touring on Tuesday.
I used this product. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPDHL5S/
It is a little less than what you are looking at. I added this wiring kit...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBPF7HE


I made an error on my install and let me tell you what it was...I put the first plate into a hole that was too small for the bolt. It was an extra 90 minutes to get back to zero but lesson learned :)


The wiring was super easy two wires on the driver's side rear light array. One on the left side
They plug in between the array and the lighting harness. Super easy too. In the trunk below the little tray on the driver's side is a great place to ground the light kit and a rubber boot that has a wire bundle running. You can use this as a good place to put the wire underneath to the battery.

Running the wire to the battery from the back was made much easier by my using fiberglass sticks. I used some networking rods that I have from networking projects.


I used them to pull the wire from the front to the back along side the brake lines. It was made super easy by using the rods and I would recommend them for this project.

Someone else mention that the bolts and having a second person to put the trailer up without losing the bolts...I left the pull wires on and feed them though the openings on the trailer hitch by myself and just pulled the guide wires one at a time and that allowed me to tighten up the bolts without worrying about losing the bolts back into the frame.


Other than the issue with the first bolt it was easy. You need a torque wrench to tighter the four bolts to the spec of 110 ft-lbs.


Feel free to PM if you have questions.

I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon also.

Last January (Jan 2017 I think, but might have been 2016) I installed a Grom Audio "Mazda 02-08 USB Android iPod iPhone Bluetooth AUX car kit" - Model# MAZU3 device.

I also purchased and installed the Bluetooth dongle & Aux-In/USB Charging adapter cable.

Installation required me to remove the OEM stereo and make a minor modification to it (hardest part of that was actually opening the cage of the stereo itself, in order to get to the circuit board).

Then the Grom device plugs in to the socket on the back of the OEM stereo that would be used by the optional factory CD changer.

The Grom 'impersonates' the CD changer, so the stereo thinks it is playing a CD from the CD changer when you are listening to the Grom

PROS:

• Finally I have satisfactory Bluetooth hands-free phone capability in the car.
  
  
• I can wirelessly stream music (from any source) from my phone to the car stereo. I primarily use this for SiriusXM, but can also listen to music stored on the phone, or Spotify/Pandora/iHeartRadio, whatever.
  
  
• I've paired Windows Phones and an iPhone 7+ to the car, with no problems. I assume an Android phone would work equally well but haven't tried one myself.
  
  
• When I originally installed the Grom unit I loaded up a pretty large USB stick with music. LOTS of albums, lots of songs. I believe I stuck to Grom's documented requirements regarding directory structures and filenames. I can listen to the music from the USB.
  
  
• I've never actually used the Aux-In, but it exists and I assume it will work just fine.
  
  CONS:
  
• Due to the design of the system and how it interfaces to the car stereo there is no audible indication you are receiving a phone call if you aren't already listening to the Grom. I.e., if you're listening to a CD or the radio then you will only know you're receiving a phone call if you see the phone display that there is an incoming call. On my phone, at least, if the phone is in the car and paired to the Grom than the phone won't ring audibly (because it is ringing via the Grom), and so if you aren't listening to the Grom you don't know a call is coming in.
  
  
• No display other than the car's factory LED strip above the HVAC vents. So you can't see who is calling you other than by looking at your phone screen. You can't see any text description of whatever music is being played.
  
  
• Navigating the file structure of the USB stick is inconsistent & unpredictable. I've given up trying to figure it out, and just concluded that since I like all of the music I loaded on the stick (after all, if I didn't like it I wouldn't own it or have put it on the stick) I just listen to the music as it plays and don't worry about it too much. It makes it impossible to go find a particular song though.
  
  
• Occasionally the full system (phone - car stereo - Grom, don't know or care where to assign the blame) will effectively get confused and either I'll hear music coming from the USB stick and my phone, or the system won't be able to play a physical CD, or the system won't switch from the USB to the phone. When this happens the only solution is to force a reset by turning the car off and then restarting the car. This only happens rarely, but it does happen.
  
  **
  **
  I think Grom should:
  
  

• not charge extra for the additional cables/dongles I used. They add up, and feel like a lot of nickel-and-diming to get the full capabilities of the system.
  
  
• provide (and for this I'd accept it being an optional, extra cost upgrade) a small display that could be plugged in to the Grom unit, with a pass-through for the currently existing wires, that would be used to display song or incoming call information. I'd think this is something that could be done easily using something like a Raspberry Pi, but I'm not a software dev, don't know anything about writing device drivers, and wouldn't know how to fabricate the hardware necessary to plug in to the existing hardware plugs. But conceptually it seems reasonable, and it seems to me that Grom already has the engineers that would know how to do this. I wish it existed.
  
  ==============
  ==============
  
  
  Within the last week I learned of two competing products that I am seriously considering for another car I own.
  
  

1. the iSimple BluHF.
   https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521602988&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+bluetooth&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
   
   This is a similar product to the Grom, but instead of plugging in to the CD port of the stereo and impersonating the CD changer it uses the FM antenna port and sends its output through the stereo's FM receiver. To use it you switch your radio to a predetermined FM frequency.
   
   I suspect this would be more reliable than Grom's method, at least with the 2004 Mazda stereo.
   
   
   
2. The Parrot MKI 9200.
   https://www.amazon.com/Parrot-MKi9200-Advanced-Bluetooth-Hands-Free/dp/B001IA3SZ0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=1996%7C1996&ie=UTF8&n=1077068&s=car&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
   
   I like the Parrot unit a lot. It looks like it would be great, and I'm willing to shell out the $$$ for it. It actually inserts itself between the stereo and the speaker wires themselves, so it will work regardless of what source you're listening to - doesn't matter if you're listening to the radio, a CD, etc...
   
   My concern with the Parrot though is that I see many reviews that state it worked great for 6 months - 2 years, and then crapped out, and the company provided horrible service when that occurred. So I'm reluctant to get one of these.
   
   Hope the above helps you decide what you do going forward.
   
   

Sure: My HIDs are actually the Kensun 35W 4300K kit, just because I wanted it to look stock-ish. Pretty happy with the result, kit was $50 and I bought a decent relay kit off of eBay for $10 or so. You can read up on how LEDs work with our housings, some say not to, others say it's fine with the right ones, but I'll leave that to your opinion.

So these are the DRL bezels themselves, you'll notice there's no fog lights in them. The same company also sells this set of bezels with only a chrome trim, but with the fogs. I ordered both (~$50 each pair) and swapped the fogs into the DRL bezels. Since I was adding fogs to a car without them, I also ordered the OEM turn signal lever/headlight/fog light switch. All 6's in this year range have the wiring for the fogs already down at the bezel, just not hooked up on cars not equipped with them. Other than an add-a-circuit for hooking up the DRLs, there's no other wiring needed.

For install, you'll need 2 hours or less. Mine took a little longer because I was trying to do as little work as possible (pro-tip: goes faster if you just do it fully).

Jack the car up and take both front wheels off (one at a time is fine if you can't) and remove the wheel well liner all the way down to where it meets the middle under-engine cover. The bezel covers (or fog bezels, if yours is already equipped with them) come out by pressing on 4 or 5 plastic clips, and they slide right out. The new bezels go back in the same way with a pretty good fit.

The OEM fog light plug goes onto your fog lights themselves (naturally), and the DRL connector will be connected to the harness that comes with the DRL bezels. Install both sides, then drop the wiring harness from the top of the engine bay down to the driver side, around the fuse box compartment. I also pulled down the under-engine cover and tucked the connection for the passenger side above it to keep it out of the way.

You can use an add-a-circuit in the fuse box on anything that will turn on and stay on when the car is running. If you use the original DRL circuit, the DRLs will turn off when your headlights come on. I used a multi-meter to test this, but from my reading some have put the add-a-circuit onto the audio or "MONITOR2" fuses. I chose MONITOR2 for ease of install and cleanliness.

That's really about all it takes, pretty painless and turns out pretty decent. They're not horribly bright and they add a little character. I put them in Friday, drove to the store Saturday and parked next to a '16 GT and the driver asked what trim level I had that got me the DRLs!

I just installed a dual dashcam in my 17' 6. I had just enough wire. For the rear I didn't want to mess with the side air bags so I went down the c pillar and under the seat belt then towards the bottom and under the kick panels. I bought a hardwire kit to make it cleaner. For the front I just tucked both wires(power and rear cam cable) under headliner and gently pulled the a pillar. Once you pull the weather stripping it becomes accessible. You have to be gentle or you will break a clip. There are way too many YouTube videos of people tucking it between the a pillar and headliner to cut across but if you check crashed copart pics, the wire would be in the way. Pulling the a pillar will give you just enough space to route the wire. I unplugged the battery as well. Once you clear the pillow you just tuck the wires to the fuse box.

I used the following links to help guide me
For a pillar removal :
https://youtu.be/hZpix4rfVz0
https://youtu.be/Atdafc2Wwqk
For kick plate removal:
https://youtu.be/X2iz_s9Nbw0
For fuse kit knowledge:

https://youtu.be/8b9CvUMcNQo

Fuse kit is a mini low profile but it didn't fit right and kept falling out. I used a mini fuse instead in the 3rd slot down on the right side. Using my volt meter it was a live circuit with ACC on however no fuse was present so it was perfect. The kit cam with a 5 amp fuse which I wired in. I can always pull it out of the socket for warranty stuff and it's super clean. Much cleaner then dragging a wire to the cigarette port.
Kit I ordered
Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, Mini USB Hard Wire Kit Fuse for Dashcam, Plozoe 12V-30V to 5V Car Dash Camera Charger Power Cord, Gift 4 Fuse Tap Cable and Installation Tool（11.5ft） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXJD8W1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r4r0BbZRNKJHJ

Last bit of advice if you hardwire, Red wire needs to point to the left since the load is on the right side. Watch that video for more on that. Good luck!

I've never looked into EL wire stuff, but I got a kit on amazon to replace all lights with LED which is a truer white rather than the regular bulbs. Super easy to install and I like them. Here's a link to what I got. I'd like to see what you do with EL wire though!

I found [these](OPT7 Aura Smart-Color LED Strip Interior Lighting Kit (4 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OU5LOT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VBjDybYB1D1R2) and I think I'm gonna pull the trigger. Out of all the kits, these have the best reviews and they come with a fuse attachment you just plug into the fuse box to have them on with ignition, etc. I was looking and apparently I can remove the panels to the side of your legs (right leg for driver and left for passenger) pretty easily and just run the wire through and then close it back up. Plug into the fuse box and done. They have some stupid sound sensing stuff, but you don't have to use it. You can steady any color, strobe, dim, or cycle through etc. Just a thought, but from what I've looked into for myself, these seem the most hassle free. I have a link to the workshop manual that explains how to remove these panels, but it's for a 14. But, I imagine those center panels didn't change much. Let me know if you need it. I'd have to get it from my laptop for you.

Forgot to mention, I have to get one with a dimmer. I tested if I would even like illumination so I bought a. couple of stick on LEDs and stick them in my footwells and it's pretty distracting, so I may end up running them only to the door being opened. Anyway just a thought if you're not 100% sure you want them, you can grab those stick on LEDs for like $2 to test it out first.

I had a 2016 GT I traded for a 2018 Signature with the white interior. On my 2016 GT I learned real quick that the piano black inserts (as footparth2206 mentioned) scratch all to heck, especially if you lay sunglasses straddling the shifter. So on my new one (I've had the signature for a year) I am SUPER extra careful. I baby my vehicles but that, the white leather and ultrasuede dash and door panels, and the strange dash material scare me a bit. I have a couple of scuff marks (that the DEALER did!) on the dash that won't seem to come off. But I found that Dr. Beasley's interior cleaner helps more than anything. So I might suggest you give that a try. And as far as the piano black inserts, I found that regular microfiber cloths are even too abrasive. I first use a can of air to get the top layer of dust off.Then I use Chemical Guys Happy Ending edgeless microfiber cleaning towels (buy on Amazon). They have no edges or seams and are extra soft. I don't use any type of cleaner at all. Hope this info helps!


Chemical Guys: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC35103-Edgeless-Microfiber/dp/B0102GRWM0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=W73UYSP30SRW&keywords=chemical+guys+microfiber&qid=1561988141&s=automotive&sprefix=chemical+guys+micro%2Caps%2C152&sr=1-10


Dr. Beasley's: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00506BC0Q/ref=twister_B00GMD0BYY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Got them on Amazon for $45, got the Mazda light stalk on Amazon as well for $40. The install was even easier than I thought it would be. Passenger side took a little longer cuz the wiper fluid reservoir is in the way. I put in some yellow LED bulbs for fun.
I know it's been posted a few times already but for anyone like myself new to Mazda:

Stalk:
Mazda Genuine BALN-66-122 Fog Light Switch w/Auto Headlights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LCGQGRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GMjyCbMKBY53R

Fog lamps:
iJDMTOY Complete Set Fog Lights Foglamp Kit with Halogen Bulbs, Wiring On/Off Switch and Garnish Bezel Covers For 2014-2016 Mazda 6 (Excluding Mazda6 Grand Touring Trim) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GXA8CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kPjyCbXDHWFCB

H11 Yellow LED:
Alla Lighting Super Bright H11 LED Fog Lights 2000 Lumens High Power 3030-SMD LED H11 3000K Yellow H11LL H8LL H8 H16 H11 LED Bulb H11 Yellow Fog Lights Lamp Bulbs Replacement w/Projector (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N67FMQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WPjyCb7S2DAHS

Agree on the LED kit. I also installed a short shift kit and shifter bushings from CorkSport. The latter is kind of overpriced, but the short shift kit is excellent and the installation instructions were crystal clear.

1. This only works if you have a 2016 or up with the control knob, but not navigation already. https://m.ebay.com/itm/2018-2014-Mazda-Navigation-SD-Card-0000-8F-Z09C-Mazda-3-Mazda-6-CX-5-CX-3-CX-9/272910144287?epid=547386152&hash=item3f8ab6531f:g:N4sAAOSwrRlZpV69
   
   
2. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182274109694
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z0Y63Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l0KaAb6YFCMSR
   
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNHZ0QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vZKaAbQRFR057
   
   I also have 7mm spacers on the front and 20mm spacers with extended lugs on the rears, beefier rear sway bar, and a strut tower brace. Spacers and strut tower brace are honestly just for looks, I do notice a bit of a difference with the sways.

Hello,

There is no need to replace the steering wheel. Just buy the leather cover and stitch it. It sounds like a difficult project but its not. All you have to do is stick to the pattern and make sure the cover wraps around evenly around the original steering wheel (the front part of the cover should align with the other side). The effect is well worth it; the steering wheel with the cover ON looks better than new stock:

https://forum.mazda6club.com/attachments/newbie-section/218754d1524496398-new-member-here-2015-mazda-6-touring-manual-transmission-img_3049.jpg

https://forum.mazda6club.com/attachments/newbie-section/218746d1524496387-new-member-here-2015-mazda-6-touring-manual-transmission-img_3037.jpg

​

https://www.amazon.com/Eiseng-Steering-2014-2016-2013-2016-Accessories/dp/B01N067ABA

Honestly the OEM one is amazing. Fits perfect and it keep a lot of heat out (coming from a guy living in Tucson, AZ).

https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Genuine-0000-8M-H30-Windshield-Sunscreen/dp/B00B1I19U0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=maazda+6+sunshade&qid=1563153452&s=automotive&sr=1-1-spell

I just looked back through my history, this is what I ordered..

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XHDYTGL/
but it's no longer available in H11 (on the .CA site) but on .COM this seems to be available:
https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-Headlight-8000Lumens-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B06XHDYTGL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=beamtech+h11&qid=1573045757&sr=8-4

What I liked about these is that they were fan-less. They've been running for a year so far without issues or decrease in brightness.

Worth a shot to try finding a key fob online somewhere. Ebay, Amazon, Etc. Then take the car to a locksmith and tell them to re-sync the newly bought key fob to your car. My wife did this and the locksmith charged like $90 or something, still cheaper than dealer, right?

Fog lights: H11 I believe.

Plastic trim piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GXA8CM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light stalk: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWO7XOK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1