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To test the alternator...start the car. Put a multimeter on the battery terminals (set to DC voltage) and see what it reads. If it's anything above like 12.7 (I THINK it's supposed to read over 13 volts), it should be okay. That means the alternator is charging the battery correctly. And although I am not a mechanic either -- one rule of working on cars is 'always check the easiest thing/simplest thing to check first'. All you need is a cheap multimeter, or dedicated battery tester.... my dad actually has this exact battery tester, and it works well...check out the reviews even. And it's cheaper than a multimeter if you don't really need one. Hope this helped...if the alternator seems good, take it from there.

Edit: Oh yeah, as far as simple things to check...how old is your battery? The battery eventually wears out and is unable to hold a charge. That tester I posted also checks that. Good luck!

Moisturize your hands before work, wear GOOD gloves at work (Raven Nitrile gloves or equivalent), and clean up with Dawn. I would also keep a bottle of Cherry Bomb or equivalent pumice based hand cleaner in your locker, toolbox, etc. at work for more immediate cleanup after those especially greasy projects.

I highly recommend NOT going cheap on the gloves and staying away from latex when working with oils, solvents and industrial cleaners, because they simply won't last and you will end up needing to scrub your hands almost as much as if you weren't wearing gloves in the first place, and will end up going through more gloves anyway, so in the long run, spending a few more dollars per box on Ravens or equivalent heavy-mil nitrile gloves is more than worth it. You can also get a pretty good deal by buying gloves by the case vs. the box, especially if you have a Prime account.

Just my two cents.

The oil filter cup won't and maybe not the t25 but the 19mm should. Those specifically are the tools you will use though. Edit: the second set looks like it might have a t25 in it. If you can swing it I would get something like this. It will be more useful and will allow you to do more if you choose to. But as for your other question. I was thinking of the 2.5 for the oil filter cup but the 2.0 is a 32mm socket. It's been a while since I've seen a 2.0 lol. Used to be a VW tech now am an Audi tech. But ya the drain plug will be a 19mm and you should replace it everytime you do an oil change (about 3 USD for a new one). Most VW/Audi filters will be that cup, a 32mm or a 36mm. You have a 32mm filter housing which will not be in the kits.

I'm a little bit hood when I'm working at home, lol. I have some of these little offroad lights (maybe not those exactly, but similar). I ran some wire with alligator clips on the end so I just hook them to the car battery. They last for-freaking-ever on that big battery, and they're pretty bright. I attach them to little countersunk magnets so I can stick em just about anywhere, like on the hood of a car. In the winter I stick them on the ROPS on my little tractor so I can putter around before sunrise/after sunset and move snow (if it ever snows again).

Oh nice yeah I live in New Hampshire and I don’t think it gets this hot ever 😃

What about something like

AutofitPro Custom Fit Dashboard Black Center Console Cover Dash Mat Protector Sunshield Cover for 2019 2020 Toyota RAV4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V58WWMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ofj1DbSCM747C

What kind of car is it? I see a lot for like $25...

Irwin extractors
Use like a regular socket - as you turn it, it cuts into the lugnut/bolt.

Alternatively - does the stripped key fit the lugnut/bolt at all - such that you can put a socket over the key with a bar, apply a slight "undoing" force, and hit with a hammer (to push the key onto the lugnut/bolt) - like a poor-man's impact driver?

A photo of the stripped key and locking nut/bolt that you're trying to undo might yield more specific solutions.

I assume that you've lost confidence in your brothers' ability to resolve this problem for you.

No problem, it's nice to see someone promoting something other then Snap-on for a change.

For the love of God, Don't buy their screwdrivers. I had a set probably 10 years ago and the handles would break while you were twisting them. Maybe they have gotten better, But I'm not going to find out.

Ok, I actually just went and looked. They are completely different than the old ones. Next time I'm at our tool store I may have to look at them.

TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive 6-Point Socket & Ratchet Set, 74-Piece (1/4-1 inch, 6-24 mm) | SKT15311 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBH736Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hr4vDbRFEDNAG

This is the one I was looking at. The other options are there as well. The 3/8 in drive 74 piece set has a breaker bar, so it looks like a great set with the torque I might need, while also having good range (down to 6mm, up to 24mm) while the 1/2 inch drive would start at 10mm. I would not need many options after 24mm.

At the same time, I hear people talking trash about Tekton, saying it rusts. DEWALT is maybe to general for most. I’m not sure what to go with.

You should be fine with a Harbor Freight tool box. To be honest you can also buy tools and other things from there as well with out much worry. Just don't buy anything from them that will get heavy use under stress. Small tools like screw drivers, allen/hex keys, and grip tools like pliers aren't too bad from them. Just remember that they do deal in cheap tools so don't be surprised when some of them break. The below tools are suggestions and the links are examples for reference only.

• gerber multitool Comes in handy more times than I can count.
  
• ratchet wrenches Great for tight spaces where a ratchet doesn't fit.
  
• mechanical fingers tool Drop something and can't get to it?
  
• flex magnet tool Drop something and can't get to it or see it?
  
• mirror tool Need to see the back of the engine from a different angle?
  
• rechargeable worklight
  
• multimeter For electrical testing purposes
  
• wire crimper For cutting/stipping/crimping connectors onto wires
  
• magnetic tray For holding nuts and bolts or anything metal you don't want to lose.
  
• air compressor For air tools and don't forget to get an air hose attachment.
  
• impact gun Air tool, great for taking nuts/bolts off quick such as wheel lug nuts.
  
• impact sockets For the impact gun.

Ahh, heating issues, sometimes very easy, sometimes the most difficult thing to do on a car.
There are many things that can cause your heater to not work.

Firstly, most heater issues are caused by low coolant or trapped air in the system so fill it to the rim and burp it. If its low, its going somewhere, so find it.

Next, its often the heater valve, the mixers, wiring or vac lines. (I doubt your car has vacuum controlled conditioning system though)

But, if you have narrowed it down to the core its self, first thing to do is to try to blow it out by bringing your engine to redline a few times on the highway. (First thing to do for most issues on a car, "A redline a day keeps the mechanic away") If that doesn't change anything, then its time for a flush. Set the car heat to high, unhook the core inlet and outlet hoses on the engine, then flush and backflush it a few times with a garden hose. If you have low flow, you can pour CLR in the hoses and let it sit for a few hours then flush it again.

If it hasn't had one recently, now is definitely a good time for a full coolant flush too.

Helpful tools I would recommend for the job:

Airlift ~$80 (Very helpful for burping a system)

Coolant System Pressure Tester ~$150 (Helpful for finding leaks and testing the cap)

Refractometer ~$50 (A very helpful tool, especially if you live in a cold climate. It measures the freezing point of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and measures battery acid state)

As far as recycling the coolant, in some counties you can pour it down the drain when properly diluted, but most of the time you have to bring it in to a recycling center.

Good luck! If you have any further questions, ill be around.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive

OMG those Michigan potholes on 94 when you enter Michigan from the Indiana border are an absolute nightmare. Better get yourself a good portable tire inflator to keep in the trunk ;)

I have this set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1ZZVY

I use the 32mm pretty often, but only on my wheel bearing kit. 24mm and 23mm are pretty common, but I don't think that I've used the 30mm.

Crescent PSX200C X2 Long Reach Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091KHK6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c1W.Bb3NHS178

Use a pliers like this that can go in the hole deeper most autozones or advanced auto might carry ones like this

‘Kick plate’ or ‘sill trim’.

It’s usually just held down with some clips and comes off fairly easily with a small, thin plastic pry bar or trim removal pliers . Just be sure to find the clips before you lift it up and position your tool as close as possible to the clip.

It looks like you’ll also have to remove the rubber seal before the sill trim.

I would highly recommend getting the Hayes Manual for your vehicle. As a amateur myself it is extremely helpful to know the steps ahead of time and usually gives you an idea of what tools and parts you will need.