(Part 2) Best products from r/minipainting

Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:

> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?

If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.

> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?

This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.

> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.

For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.

> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?

Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.

> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.

I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.

> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?

Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.

> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?

Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.

> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?

A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.

> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?

Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.

> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?

Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.


One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.

Hey there! I got into painting based on the board games I was picking up that came with plastic miniatures. This was a good starting place as the figures aren't super detailed and adding any paint to them seemed to make them better than standard board game pieces.

If the art side if things is more of the draw then I would suggest checking out a starter kit. There are a few "starter kits" out there that are good because they give you the basic necessities to jump into painting without spending tons of money.

I saw a couple good looking kits on Amazon. Here is a DND specific one:

The Army Painter Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-QBDDbAFWJSHE

Or here is a generic fantasy one:
Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTMC49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z1BDDbC1DSWE1

I think I'd recommend the second one as it comes with a couple different figures and seems like it's ready to go right out of the box.

One cool thing about painting miniatures is that it is as complicated or as simple as you'd like. There are some great tutorial videos on YouTube to teach the basics. I learned from Sorastros painting tutorials. He does a good job of showing you the basics to get a decent looking figure and then gives you extra steps if you are extremely detailed or want to go to the next level.

As others have mentioned you can get sets of figures to paint from reapers miniatures website. Or if there is a board game out there with a theme your son likes, it may be a good place to start as most games come with 15-30 miniatures with different sizes. Including bigger monsters which can be really fun to paint. Plus you then have a fun game in which to use your art project.

Mice and mystics is a fun family cooperative game with tiny anthropomorphic mice fighting fantasy battles similar to the redwall books. I painted the figures from those and had a great time with the painting and the game.

Some other good ones are Descent 2nd edition and Starwars Imperial assault. Both come with great miniatures but are a little complex on rules and need one player to be the big bad overlord playing against the heroes.

There is also a series of dungeons and dragons board games that are cooperative and come with lots of miniatures. The quality of these isn't very high but those were my first figures.


If you want to go "whole hog" you could purchase one of the "Warhammer age of sigmar" starter boxes. These miniatures are extremely detailed and actually require you to assemble them from several pieces. They don't come with paint inused but there are entire paint kits to go along with them. Some folks really enjoy putting the GW models together, then priming and painting them. These aren't cheap so it might be best to start elsewhere but you get a lot of figures in the box. I will warn you the theme is fairly dark. Lots of blood and skulls.

Best of luck and I hope you guys enjoy!

A couple other points:

In addition to keeping them clean, mind how you use them. THis is personal observation, mind you - Do not "poke" at things with the brush. dont even paint at a 90 degree angle if you can help it. Ive noticed that this will curl a synthetic brush in no time. So...one good thing, I think in using the synthetics early on is learning to avoid that habit of jabbing paint into crevices and finding ways to "stroke" the paint

The shaking hands are tension and stress. It can either be from bracing too hard, i.e. "white knuckles" or from not supprting arms and such well or at all and so muscle fatigue creeps in. So: look at ways of supporting your painting limbs, but dont "clamp down".

Try making your hands like a cup and saucer or "gun hands" like you see in the movies. One hand - the saucer underneath. the other hand makes an "ok" sign and rest the heel of that hand - The cup - agains the heel of your "saucer hand". Now imagine the saucer hand holding the mini and the cup hand holding the brush between the thumb and forefinger. bingo. Now you can rest thesaucer elbow on the desk to support even better. and if necessary, both elbows.

Tis is not perfect of course but you get the idea of the thing. and you will find you can adjust this pose to suit whatever angle you need to get to by rotating the mini and bracing different parts of your cup hand against your saucer hand.

You probably want to avoid the crafts paints. Ive not tried them but the reputation is that the pigment is too coarse for miniatures. A couple reaper basic kits and you are set with paints, especially as you get better at mixing.

EDIT: I recently tried these brushes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M7HPVV2/ Im a fan. that number 2 is incredibly good compared to what Ive been using. and they dont break the bank

I'm not sure about foods, though imagine some exercises could be beneficial. Years back I injured my hand, nothing serious but a bit of scar tissue limited how much I could bend my finger. I ended up seeing a physical therapist that specialized in hands. Perhaps you can talk to one or just find out information through online searches for exercises to help steady your hands. I know, not a ton of help, but maybe it's a start.

In terms of things specific to mini painting, a good holder can help. I use something like this. You can also get a table mounted version which sometimes I'll use for very fine detail freehand work. That allows me to also use my other hand to help steady the brush if needed. Place the index finger of your other hand against the brush just below the bristles and apply a light amount of pressure. I think you'll find this gives you an increased amount of control.

When I paint, I find I often extend my pinky (on the hand holding the brush) and will rest it on either the figure or the figure's holder while I paint. It's something I do without thinking most of the time. It helps my hands (the one holding the figure and the one holding the brush) move together and gives me a sense of greater control.

I would say that you would only really see benefits with a higher quality air compressor if you've already got your skill using an airbrush really dialed in until then a cheaper airbrush would really suffice. I'll entirely honest I've only been airbrushing my miniatures for a couple of months now but I've had the honor of using my friends high quality compressor but I've also been using my cheap Master Compressor. If i'm being entirely honest with you at my skill level I can't even tell the slightest difference between the two. My much more skilled friend can notice a huge difference between the two compressors but again, he's been airbrushing for almost five years. Now for a beginner I am using a slightly nicer airbrush, I'm using the Iwata HP-CS. I was recommended by him that I get the nicer airbrush and the cheaper air-compressor because the fine detail work that you're almost constantly doing with miniatures, he argued that the airbrush would have much higher returns per dollar than the more expensive air-compressor. I hope that helped a little. Take that all with a grain of salt because Like I said before I'm new and these are just my personal observations.

I sincerely want to thank you for such a thorough reply! I would like to address some of your points so perhaps you can expand on them a little deeper when you have the time.

>You seem to have thinned your paints, so that's half the battle won right there. They look like they could be thinned a little bit more though, and perhaps load your brushes a little bit less.
>


I did thin the paints with small amounts of water as that seems to be the golden rule from having lurked on this sub for a few days before starting my painting, the difficulty I had this area was not really knowing how much/little to thin them and what the consistency was supposed to look like(admittedly I did not watch any youtube videos on the subject as I didnt even think about it).

>The most glaring issue I see is a lack of colour depth. Your shadows aren't particularly prominent or seem absent in some areas and there seems to be a complete lack of any highlights.
>


This was exactly what I was thinking when I was painting them and this stems from looking at the box art and thinking "wow these figures really "pop" the colors are not at all what I would expect a command team to have" and while I was painting I kept telling myself they needed to be brighter. As for shadows and highlights, I did apply nuln oil shader but I watered it down so much that it doesnt even look like its been applied. I was concerened it would make the minis too dark(i.e. the Domaru's shotgun). As for the highlights, One of the biggest issues/concepts I am having trouble wrapping my head around is the highlighting. I have watched a few videos of the procedure itself but I am having trouble mixing paint to brighten it up for highlights and then where the highlights should be applied.

> Your neatness and thoroughness are pretty good. Could use a little work but fine for a beginner.
>


Thanks! I was actually working with a set of brushes that were recommended to me that ended up being sub par in my opinion and lacked the very small brushes that were needed to get some of the very fine details. I have started to educate myself on quality brushes and the sizing numbers on what they mean.

As for the color "blocks" that had not occurred to me so thank you for pointing that out, I will definitely keep that in mind for when I start working on the next group of my army. I am not quite sure how to get those subdued shades that are present on the box art but more practice will definitely help. Thank you again for your reply!

Just to add my 2 cents - I also have the Iwata HP-CS and absolutely love it. My close friend has the Badger Sotar that Miniac uses and loves his airbrush as well. You really can't go wrong with either of them. My only additional recommendation is to invest in an air-compressor that has a dedicated tank. I use this one and it has been awesome for the last two years. The tank helps eliminate any pulsating pressure and allows for a more consistent experience. Its not super important, but what kind of miniatures does your husband paint and what does he plan on painting with the airbrush? One thing to keep in mind while you look at airbrushes is the needle sizes of the unit - they can be changed, but the one that comes with it does play a role in how the airbrush behaves. The Iwata comes with a .35 mm needle while the Sotar can be found with needles ranging from .19 mm to .31 mm. The .19 mm needle is much finer and is better for precision work. I think the .35 is a great "all around" size, but if he plans on doing a lot of small details, he may find it a bit too large.

An airbrush is a great gift! I know I use mine all the time!

If you feel you're going to use the paints get the paints. It's better to have them and not need them then need them and not have them. Vallejo is good with muddy tones, especially their amazing greens. Army Painter is great with warm colors, pastels and creamy brights. So I'd say it depends on weather you want your models to look warm or cold in a general sense. Ultimately, I'd choose both. They're both great paints for the price.

Yeah chances are even if we had the brands of brushes you're used to they wouldn't be the same kind of value you had back in Europe. I got a set of synthetic brushes a lot like these nearly two years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/MEEDEN-Professional-Sable-Detail-Paint/dp/B01JYVI9RQ/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=Synthetic+Sable&qid=1566600966&s=gateway&sr=8-45

I've just started to splay my 0 brush and the rest are looking pretty rough. But it was a good investment overall.

I use gw paints, mainly because I just always have, and I'm used to them, but if you wanna use some better quality, most people recommend vallejo or army painter. You can get a pretty good start with a variety of colors for army painter on Amazon for a pretty good price.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B706BbA6TT14G


And I know you didn't, but I use their brushes, this set is a good starting point.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F806BbW819S9Q

I'm in Canada too and I just got into painting with the Reaper Bones kickstarter. Sorry in advance if this post sounds like a shill for Reaper stuff.

The Reaper online store has free shipping to Canada for orders over $35. Their prices are pretty reasonable, but they're in USD, so you'll suffer from the current crappy exchange rate.

They have a Learn to paint kit for $35 with 2 brushes and a small variety of paints which seems like a decent value.

Depending on what size brushes are in that kit, you might want to get a larger flat brush for base coats or a size 10/0 "super detail" brush. You can get brushes from Reaper or at a Michaels. I also grabbed a cheap pack of Mod Podge brushes that I don't care about wrecking.

Bones don't need priming, so I have no advice there.

I got this brush cleaner, I don't know if it's a good deal or not.

You can buy a paint palette, but you can also just use a plastic lid to get started, or make a wet palette -- easy and prevents your paints from drying out.

If there's a Games Workshop near you, you can get Citadel paints there. I ended up buying a couple of metallics and a brown wash. They come in pots, which aren't as convenient as dropper bottles.

Here are a couple of videos that helped me get started:

• Zombicide comprehensive tutorial - shows a lot of tools and steps
  
• Washes
  
• Weapons and armor
  
• Eyes
  
• Bases
  
  Also, like everyone else has said, check in at your local gaming/hobby shop :)

Ok. Gonna throw out a couple of suggestions to get you started.

First get a starter paint set.

You can get them from the local hobby shops

A few of them come with the basic supplies you need to get started.

The following ones come with a small set of paints, a brush and a miniature to paint. Often they also come with step by step instructions or online videos to watch

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kTC0Db25P03XH

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Monsters Paint Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWL5JZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VVC0Db4FCQTAM

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTMC49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vWC0DbVBYBCNP

Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints #09970 Starter Set for Mini Figures https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07664WJ3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RXC0DbPXRB07Z

The Army Painter Kings of War Undead Miniatures Paint Set - Highly Pigmented Acrylic Model Paint Set - 10 Miniature Paints in 18ml Dropper Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRYAY5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FYC0Db3QD8HJT

The above links are only there to show you what to look for.

Citadel also has a great range of paints but they are generally more expensive and don’t come with brushes or models to paint

Please. Buy local and support our FLGS (Friendly Local Game Stores) They are the reason why so many people are into these hobby’s.

Take a little while and find a couple of Nolzurs or Reaper miniatures you like to paint. They are inexpensive and will be great pieces to start with.

However if your gonna look online Miniature Market currently is having their Black Friday sale


https://www.miniaturemarket.com/searchresults?q=black+friday+sale#/?_=1&sort.ga_unique_purchases=desc&page=1&filter.product_tag=Black%20Friday&filter.manufacturer=Army%20Painter

What ever route you’re choose let us know what you did and show us your completed work. There are a lot of super helpful people here

Hi! Thank both you and /u/redpiano for the replies, I really appreciate it. If you both don't mind I have a couple more questions. Thank you again for taking the time to help me out, it's put me at ease more here and I'm thinking this might not be so bad. (Also pricing HEPA filters because of these posts which is probably a good idea anyway.)

When you say "put an air filter over it", do you mean literally just buying something like this and taping it over the end of the flat slot portion of the tube? I'm a little confused on that.

Regarding thinner, is Vallejo considered safe? I picked basically Vallejo everything just in case there was any cross-brand problems. Also, I take it that alcohol paints and lacquers are considered harmful because of the noxious fumes as well? I use Tamiya spray primer, it's actually what I have the organic vapor mask for, and I know from experience that it's pretty wicked and it sticks around for a long time (I went outside during the summer months and fall but I've had to commandeer the bathroom with an open window in the next room in the past month and a half and just warn people to stay out for a half an hour or so afterwards). I usually end up having to shut the drying pieces in my laundry closet because they are just that potent. (Somewhat related, does anybody know if Stynylrez is any less noxious? I've been trying in vain to find a primer that is as smooth as Tamiya to no avail, but I was hoping that thinning this and spraying it through an airbrush might take care of that.)

There are a couple things I can't avoid using alcohol based paints for (unless anybody knows water based alternatives to things like Tamiya's transparent colours, particularly their red), but I was hoping to just set up a second booth in my other room to do those in short doses.

(Also, this is alright for painting, right, as long as I'm not using stuff with fumes? Like I mentioned before I'd really rather not use up my expensive cartridges for my organic vapor mask too quickly if at all possible.)

I love my series 7 #1. It's expensive, but completely worth it.

I just got a magnifying visor with a couple LED lights, and it's been extremely helpful. The lighting is especially nice when I'm just at the kitchen table. Together with the series #7, I can get really fine, accurate strokes.

Liquidtex matte medium has been fun to play with since it lets me thin paint for washes past what you can get with tap water.

Testors Matte spray, I assume? You said I should do matte followed by gloss, but I read that I should do gloss (for durability) followed by matte (for non-shiny appearance). Which is best?

I may have to go with Vallejo paints if I can find them, as they're frequently recommended and come in droppers (which I think will be less fuss).

I read that cheap brushes will be more frustrating than they are worth, and since my free time is scarce, I planned on using nicer brushes. What would you recommend for a cheap brush set that's not a pain in the ass? Something like [this on Amazon, $15] (https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-Watercolor/dp/B010QLOJ3G)?

I don't use any magnifiers, but desk lamp wise I grabbed this a while ago and really like it.

The max brightness is very crisp, clean light. The lower settings are good for other normal desk lamp uses as well when I'm not painting.

I like these. http://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Shade-Paint/dp/B00KOD3FM8 but always with the knowledge that I can make my own with about a 1:8 ratio of any paints that I have. Use the color wheel as your guide. Cool colors recede while warm colors pop out. Try experimenting with different colors and see what effects you get, and what makes you happy. On faces I use a bit of blue in the shadows to help them recess, while using red in other places to help it come out.

Also, I typically repeat 3 and 4 multiple times.

I have a basic table and chair with this LED lamp as the light source. It's very adjustable and has a low footprint so I can make sure I'm not hunched over the table while also having a plethora of brightness / wavelength options to fit my needs. There are brighter lamps available, but I liked the metal construction and the fact that the lamp can be twisted at the top arm. If those factors aren't important to you, this one is cheaper and brighter.

As far as making sure your back isn't wrecked, that can probably be fixed by better posture. Instead of hunching over the table to get a closer look at the figure, sit upright and hold the figure closer to your face. I imagine table height would be the most important factor there since I rest my elbows on the table when I paint, so the table being the correct height means I can sit upright and hold the figure in front of my face.

Those sets actually look really awesome and right in the price range I was willing to spend. Might grab both! Thanks for the recommendation.

For brushes I saw army painter has this set it looks like it has the brushes you recommend and then some. Have you found the bristles of these brushes stay together well? I know on small brushes you will always have some minor separation because of their size.

Also what do you use to clean your brushes? I figured id pick some of this Master Brush Cleaner while i'm at it.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

Ooooh thanks! I'll have to watch that video! I just ordered the Citadel set as well. I'll do a couple of side-by-sides and post the results. Hopefully this weekend, since I'm still waiting for them to come in the mail.

Thanks for giving me the motivation!

Hey, I’m also pretty new to the hobby. I picked up one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AU2FNATHSFHNB. And I have been pretty happy with it. For some reason my local hobby shop had it a little cheaper than amazon so if you have a store around you that might sell this stuff I would check it out. It comes with a decent selection of good paint, #1 brush and a miniature for you to get started.

With a 4x4 base you're probably looking for something that's 12"+ tall. I think you'll have more luck modeling that yourself than purchasing anything available. I think you'll have better luck buying this and this and testing your artistic ability.

Edit: These might make a nice touch: Melissa & Doug Rainbow Crystals Bead Set

10 Miniature Paint Brushes with FREE Masterclass Kolinsky Sable Hair Brush - Durable Miniatures Paint Brush Set, Wargamer Brushes with Comfortable Grip - Wargames Mega Brush Set by The Army Painter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gx-1Ab7S8ZM2F
Highly recommend this set over the stuff at hobby lobby I’ve bought several brushes from hobby lobby and have liked none of as much as the brushes from this set

Sorry, I'm not familiar with Army Painter brushes. All I know are the numbered sizes. I would assume that Army Painter would have appropriately sized brushes, though. Maybe someone else here can comment on that.

This is what I bought. They're probably not the greatest, but they've done well, so far.

Best of luck, and I hope to see some more work from you. :-)

Thank you, I'm glad you liked it. They're not my highest quality work but I'd call them good enough for tabletop. Especially if I was doing an army of these. This is the vice I use. It's pretty handy, especially for filming.

I use a Da Vinci series 35 size 0 for all my details but they are super expensive on amazon.
I've heard good things about [this set] (https://www.amazon.com/ZEM-BRUSH-Kolinsky-Artist-Detail/dp/B00M7HPVV2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537841509&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=zem+kolinsky&dpPl=1&dpID=41bpKKr9LoL&ref=plSrch)

The model is of Minsc and Boo, and it comes with the Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments Adventurer's Set. It's like a D&D/Army Painter colab for newbies (like me!).

The model is pretty cool tho.

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

I've been using these and they're great - good tools make you value them, and go that extra length to make sure that they're looked after.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-MyArtscapeTM/dp/B010QLOJ3G/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=sspa_mw_detail_0

Metal miniatures take different considerations. Did you wash the pieces well? Have you tried to score the attaching components? If possible have you pinned the pieces? Zap a gap is decent for plastic miniatures but I prefer something like Gorilla Super Glue Gel (not regular gorilla glue, it expands)

If you want to learn the basics Reaper has a good basic set that comes with 3 minis, paints, 2 brushes and instructions. They also sell it on their website but they are currently N/A for some reason.

https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Miniatures-08906-Learn-Paint/dp/B00NTMC49G/ref=sr_1_1?crid=17PWIEKV7K90U&keywords=reaper+learn+to+paint+kit&qid=1571500156&sprefix=reaper+le%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-1

If you have a basic grasp of everything and need some good paint Vallejo has a nice starter set. Only paints

https://www.amazon.com/Game-Color-Intro-Set-16/dp/B000PHCTRK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2HJ4CKX87RZT1&keywords=vallejo+paint+set&qid=1571500291&sprefix=valle%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-4

Army Painter has some that is bit more costy but gets you some paints, brush and one Owl Bear mini.

https://www.amazon.com/Dungeons-Dragons-Official-Paint-Monsters/dp/B07DWL5JZZ/ref=sr_1_31?crid=2HJ4CKX87RZT1&keywords=vallejo+paint+set&qid=1571500291&sprefix=valle%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-31

Oh man, I wish I were crafty and skilled enough to machine metal...

My Fiancee got this for me as a gift and I love it, here's the link: Jewelers Universal Holder

I was looking at mini holders and couldn't find anything I liked. The top is a hex grid with circular holes for pegs and you can adjust it for all kinds of base sizes under 50mm

There's even a Desktop Version of the Jewelers Holder (though its a little more expensive)

Definitely need new primer then. This or this is pretty good, can't really go wrong with it.

I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt; the regular is a grey color. Tutorial hereSame two-part compound idea, but it will thin (and clean) with water before hardening and is a finer grain than green stuff (so it files/sands nicer (smoother). Very easy to manipulate & shape with wax shaping tools

I bought this recently and I am really pleased with it. Great value for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GWM9QN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Army Painter Matte Spray Varnish is what I use.

It's actually great to use on top of Gloss Varnish, since the gloss goes on thicker and does a good job of protecting the mini.

Matte on top of gloss will appear matte.

https://www.amazon.com/MagniPros-Illuminated-Headband-Magnifier-Detachable/dp/B071GWM9QN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537301259&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=magnifying+glasses+with+light&psc=1
This has 5 focal lengths so it could be good for getting the right one for you, it's not very expensive and they seem to be pretty popular for model painting

It's good stuff, and unless I can't be bothered to open the bottle, it's what I thin everything with. I bought a 50ct set of 15 ml dropper bottles, and that's what I use, and it's worked perfectly for me.

As an aside, I used the rest of the dropper bottles to store the rest of my paint.

What would you recommend as a good middle range brush? I got a pack of Meeden Sable brushes from Amazon. Their usefulness and lifetime varies wildly.

Milliput and green stuff both work well for gap filling and smoothing over rough areas. Liquid green stuff is garbage. I find that milliput is more fragile than green stuff, so if you're putting it in areas that are likely to be touched a lot (or you're fabricating detail) I'd use green stuff. But I like it a little more for seam filling just because of how easy it is to sand and carve.

Get yourself a cheap set of tools and remember to smooth it over with watered tools/fingers.

>I'd have something to protect that table

Good suggestion. I use a self healing cutting mat, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Deluxe-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI/

I use one of these, which I like because it clamped onto the edge of my desk, can be powered off a USB port from my computer (directly below it), and has a reasonably flexible gooseneck so I can get the light where I need it. On the down side, there's no way to adjust the brightness. I haven't minded because I basically want full brightness all the time so I can see my mini clearly.

When I attended ReaperCon last August, I noticed an awful lot of TaoTronics desk lamps in use.

Despite what people say you should always use a respirator and not a dust mask. Atomized acrylic paint and air brush cleaner are no where near save to breath. I would suggest this one, or this one.

It is save to say that they are non toxic when used with your paint brush, but you don't want to atomize it and breath it in. Like you don't want to huff anything out of a spray can.

I have been using 1" plastic squares that I got on Amazon. I'd seen a few Kickstarters for stampers to put a pattern onto bases. I figured I could make my own.

I used the Clay to make my positive. I made one of a cobblestone and another of bricks. They are much larger than the size of the base so that I can use any portion to create the impression.

I then used this low melting point plastic. Soften it up and then press it into the clay pattern. Now I have a negative that I can use over and over.

I then got some Green Stuff. Put it on my 1" square base and then gently press into my negative image. Now I have a positive and I can let that setup and glue/pin my mini to the base.

Here is the brush soap I'm talking about. It's invaluable for getting a good lifespan out of your nice brushes. If he's just rinsing with water, it won't take long before he's got enough built up acrylic in and around the ferrule to split the tip. This might be why he seems to go through them so fast. With the Master's, or maybe even the heavy duty stuff he might even be able to recover some of the brushes he thought were toast.

Use one of them
https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=pd_lpo_229_bs_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XNADG7T9SV9W25PFQHEP

they help to protect your surface from scratches and paint and comes in a lot of size variants. 8x12 should be enough for the most time

I use one of these bad boys:
http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics%C2%AE-Elune-TT-DL01-Dimmable-Lighting/dp/B00APAQSP6/ref=sr_1_1?srs=5608252011&ie=UTF8&qid=1412630343&sr=8-1&keywords=desk+lamp
I also have a normal halogen desk lamp on the other side of my desk. My only complaint is that you can't rotate the bar, but that's rarely an issue. It has a USB charger on it too, which is surprisingly useful.

use a scalpel and side-cutting pliers to carefully cut the base out of the mini leaving just a small piece around the feet.

Get some blank bases and use green stuff to create your 3d cobblestone texture. The exceeding plastic under the feet will help to keep the mini steady and will be completely covered by the green stuff.

That compressor doesn't look like it's got a tank on it, so it'll be running the entire time you're airbrushing. I've heard good things about this one.


Also, don't forget a respirator, though you'll probably want the round pink filters on it(the P100 I believe).

You can airbrush inside, too. One of the main concerns in indoor airbrushing is over-spray. There are a couple of ways to handle this, One is just to airbrush into a container, such as a cardboard box. If you're going to do a lot of airbrushing, you might want to upgrade to a spray booth. There are spray booths that you can buy, the most common one I saw when shopping for one was around US $100. If you're the DIY sort, you can find plenty of tutorials on making your own.

You should also get a filtration mask/respirator, such as this one from 3M for use while airbrushing, although some people forego using one. If you're spraying solvent-thinned paints, you definitely want to be using a respirator.

I third this. With a small reservation, I would suggest getting a kit with a small tank like this as it will allow you to play with the airbrush for longer periods of time without having the engine overheat.

I'll save you $10 immediately: A cork, and bluetac. Now you don't need to spend 9.45 on a painting handle. You also probably don't need to be starting with wet palette. A 8 colour ink set is also probably overkill, stick to black and brown and be done with it.

And I suggest swapping your brush set to this: https://www.amazon.com/MyArtscape-Detail-Paint-Brush-Set/dp/B010QLOJ3G

4 rounds, 4 liners, 2 flats.

I got this the other week, I currently live in a ~400 square foot apartment and it isn't much louder than my windows AC, takes about 30-60 seconds to fill up, and from then on is perfectly silent until it starts running low and it will turn back on, fill up in a few secs, shut off again.

I'd make them out of two-part epoxy putty. Greenstuff, is the most popular variety for this kind of work. There are tons of articles and videos on how to use the stuff too.

Yeah, sounds like you've eliminated things down to a problem inside the compressor itself.

TBH those types of compressors are practically just repackaged aquarium pumps, and IMO aren't what anyone should use. Even when they work, they top out at such a rock-bottom low PSI and CFM that they're basically unusable outside of one or two VERY narrow use cases. For model airbrushing, you want something a little bit stronger.

The Iwata Ninja Jet is WAY overpriced for how inherently limited it is. Return it, and get something like this or this instead (I use the latter, and can vouch for it).

Yep that stuff exactly but that's the packaging you'd want to stay away from. The middle where it touches has to be cut away. Look for tubes like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ/ref=pd_sim_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3VXACGJZ4E2YY0XY4JVB

Or two separate tubes.

I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.

First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.

Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.

Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.

One thing to look at that hasn't been mentioned, I have one particular red sable brush (it's a Blick Masterstroke) that splits like that when it gets too much water in it (and has from day one).

If technique related fixes and brush soap don't get the job done, try picking up a liquid brush cleaner and see if that gets the job done.

Shade set

Having little pots of most is fine --- I mostly use nuln and agrax.

This link leads to a gap filler made specifically for this issue! You mix the yellow and blue to make the green ckay-like substance that fills in any gap!

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58824589151&hvadid=274732491114&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9015551&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10939296767922561980&hvtargid=kwd-299414241990&hydadcr=28696_10176914&keywords=green+stuff&qid=1567476058&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3D3WXKRRQPHZM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFSTU0wMURGVVA4RkomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNTg5NjkyMFRVM0dIVjlRVEZRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNzk2NzEyMzRQUEhBN0UyUkNKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

green stuff

One of the lights that I use when I stream on twitch is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APAQSP6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just shorten the link next time - just use [ ] ( )

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ

https://www.amazon.com/MagniPros-Illuminated-Headband-Magnifier-Detachable/dp/B071GWM9QN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jewelers+goggles&qid=1555773026&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F73QCJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's this https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Charging-Lighting-Brightness-Licensing/dp/B00APAQSP6

Green Stuff

Exactly this. They sell in a different package where the two epoxies are connected and it doesn't last as long. With these, keep each color in it's own Ziploc bag and it will last forever.

I'm using normal framing wire. It cost $3 for a million feet of it.

Or just buy one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Work-Holder-CLAMP-VISE/dp/B000RB547G/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Free-Universal-Holder-HOL-173-00/dp/B0058EDVXQ/

I have this compressor. It is just loud enough that it almost drowns out the TV in the same room. If you're a couple rooms away, I don't see it being an issue.