Best products from r/mitsubishi

Well you've got the same back end as the evo 7, 8 & 9 so I'd look into finding some Evo tail lights like these for example
http://amzn.com/B007DJHMK2

You could also get a big wing if you like that style
http://amzn.com/B001D6UYMY

HID bulbs for the headlights would be something to invest in as well, they look amazing at night :) and also really help with night time driving.
www.ddmtuning.com

Maybe some oz rally rims?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem;PdsSession=99b8e61313e0a5e9069250b2ffc92cfd?itemId=160710663109&index=4&nav=SEARCH&nid=20941965219

An air intake would help with performance as well.
http://amzn.com/B000C3YTBQ

A muffler & exhaust system would help with performance as well, along with giving it a low growl :)
http://www.carid.com/2003-mitsubishi-lancer-exhaust-systems/

And a strut support bar to help with staying flat when turning.
http://thmotorsports.com/i-444143.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=4441432003MITSUBISHILANCER&utm_campaign=GoogleShoppingSeanVehSpec&adtype=pla&kw=&gclid=CJCRusiJkbcCFUeCQgod5lMANw

Mmmmm and that's about all I would do, may be a sound system eventually.

(Sorry for the links being the size of King Kong lol I'm on a mobile)

Thanks for pointing the balance numbers out again. I think I overlooked them in the original post you made. I was able to static and road force balance tires to near perfect, like 0.005 and 0.01 and 0.02, very commonly using a couple of hunter machines back when I worked for a Goodyear subsidiary. The machines we had were pretty new back then, and had internal harmonic balancing sensors and laser evaluation to determine Out of Round.(OOR).

More like the bead on the inside, and belts on the inside. The amount of rubber is also a factor, winter tires are not so good on balancing. The bead is thicker in spots ( its a giant metal ring on both sides of the tires. If the steel belts have an issue, like bunching up, or a flaw, this can be a problem as well.

As far as those balance numbers go. All of those numbers are correctable with 5G weight sections on the inside of the rim if the weight distribution is biased to the inside (inner side) of the rim. Some times you need multiple weights in multiple locations to effectively balance a tire. It should rarely be a one and done operation. I've also seen objectively perfect tires from both Michelin, Goodyear and Kumho. Like, no weights required. Perfect Round.

Some rims have hammer on weights for the front, while others use sticky for both. I have shoehorned stickies for front if possible, but more often than not, since the hammer on weights are made of soft metal, I would cut sizes down larger weights to satisfy dependencies if it were a hammer on front. It's simple: Chisel, Hammer, Meet wheel weight and basic digital scale.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_balancing.htm Check that out, it gives you some basic information on the topic.

You can see that 0.30 is equal to 1.5oz and 1.5oz is equal to 42.5 grams. The RR, LR, and RF are all correctable with standard weights. I would respin the LF and compensate for the out of round condition, opposite to the origin of the condition.

https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Steel-Stick-Wheel-Weights/dp/B0031B7Y7W


You need to clean the application site with ether ( tire techs do this for stick ons.)


To me, it seems like your tire technician probably depends on the machines, and does the best he/she can do, with what is provided as far as weights go.

So go out there and give them a talking to. The bigger the tire, the harder to balance, but those numbers are not consistent with what I would send out.

If the tech has no idea about out of round (Inches) to oz and to grams. Tell him to use the machine to check the inside and outside. Which ever side has the most variation will require a compensating wheel weight and multiple re-balances.

Please ensure that the tech is using the proper hub for your vehicle. Trucks have huge hubs, while passenger vehicles and SUVs have smaller hubs.

Have the technician run the machine with the calibration device attached as well.


If your technician cannot balance these tires, take them somewhere else for a balance, if a place fails to adequately perform the balance, they typically will retry, and if that fails, refund the balance fee. If they are unable to correct the issue, return to your original provider, voice your complaints, talk the talk and start talking refund. I would bet my left arm that they will try to put you in another set of tires, usually for a discount. Be polite, but firm. The worst thing that can happen at a tire shop is for you to walk out.

I tell you that I cannot count the amount of times we discounted installation, lifetime balancing and rotation, valve stems and additional addons, just to move a set of tires.

I originally tried the same thing (googling everything) but trying to find all the information I was looking for in one place was next to impossible. Plus you have so many contradicting views on how to go about tuning...etc.

Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg banish. Its a little older (written in 2007) but still covers all the basics you will need.

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Management-Advanced-Greg-Banish/dp/1932494421/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416614952&sr=1-1&keywords=engine+management+advanced+tuning

Automotive engine management systems by Jeff Heartman. This book came out in 2013 (i believe) and deals a lot with volumetric efficiency (VE) based engine management systems (like the AEM infinity). This book was the first one I read and it really gives you a good understanding of things. Its much longer then the book above, but seeing as how it goes into greater depth and more aspects of tuning its worth the read.

http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Automotive-Engine-Management-Systems/dp/0760343454/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416615138&sr=1-1&keywords=automotive+engine+management+systems

Other honourable mentions:

Maximum boost by Corky bell (the book is a bit older, but its really well written and interesting)

"How to build" Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63 engines, by Robert Bowen (and Robert Garcia of Road Race Engineering RRE)

Engine Airflow by Harold Bettes

http://amzn.com/B00RCEJIOG
Great caps for only 9 bucks! Perfect fit and they look great. High quality.

Don't worry about it, honestly. 55 Gallon drums you'll burn through like its going out of style. You'd be lucky to get 1000 miles out one drum in the city. Stick with making power the old fashioned way and enjoy yourself.

Maintenance isn't bad IMO since I do all the labor myself. Any up charges are entirely my fault. Let me list what I go through right quick.

Bi-Annual snapshot, timing belt

• Timing Belt $106.66 - Regular alternative $25.17
  
• Balance Shaft Belt // Deleted Balance Shafts - Regular Alternative $13.68
  
• Accessory Belt $48.44 - Regular Alternative $23.67
  
• Hydraulic Tensioner
  
• Accessory Tensioner
  
• Balance Shaft Tensioner
  
• etc etc
  
  My biggest reoccuring annual expense is tire wear. My Hankook RS-3's used to get about 14k miles per set (200hp ago), but I'm moving back to the midwest so I will have dedicated winter set of rims (17" Volks) and a dedicated summer-powwwwahahhhh rims (18" Enkei). You could of course go with much less ridiculous tires that have some moderation in wear, and save big.
  
  Fluids for the drivetrain can all be sourced from Amazon (Redline Fluids here) and I try to change out every 6 months, spring and fall at $50-80 a go.
  
  I actually have a very large google spreadsheet that breaks down every cost I've had minus fuel / routine oil since I purchased the car if you're interested in seeing the madness.

I have decided to start my upgrades with a new intercooler, a cold air intake and blacking out the chrome. I really have no idea about quality parts so can someone let me know if this intercooler is of quality: http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Evolution-Evo10-Ralliart-Intercooler/dp/B007SQ2HTG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
Also if someone could recommend to me a good quality air intake, that would be awesome. After these mods my goal is to get a catback exhaust and the boost pill. Little by little I will get there. Thanks for you help!

Yeah. Ceramic is AWESOME. I was using mother's ceramic during the summer, but got a line up on another product on early release / testing... here's what I currently use & absolutely love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53409-Solutions-Coating-16/dp/B07XYPS3PS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=turtle+wax+ceramic&qid=1573960471&sprefix=turtle+wax&sr=8-3

Just a heads up, you can get sensors delivered from amazon.ca for $66 each. They need to be paired with your vehicle. This can be done by any dealership (generic system) or by someone who has the right kit. Amazon confirms they fit the 2015 RVR so you should be good to go.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00TPVZNUW/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1977604502&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007NK2NDC&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_r=2T1PVQVY05D9Y30HB96C

edit: I'm pretty sure tires need to come off rims for this to happen.

As long as the car runs well and you aren't getting awful fuel milage, I believe a broken cat is better than none at all. From the error code you posted earlier it seems like it's just not as efficient as it should be.

Do you hear any rattling if you start it cold and let it warm up for a minute before driving?

I hit my cat on a rock or something in rally and I can hear bits of the cat rattling around when it's cold.

You can get something like this from amazon (link) and connect it to your cell phone over bluetooth (usually works better with a android phone) and you can read your own codes and check up on all of the sensor readings of your car without having to take it to a place to get it read.

Get yourself a fuse tester like this.

Portable DC 24V Car Fuse Kit ATO/ATC ATM Blade Fuse Tester Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFSSCFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mVFpDbFD11SXY

Then pop open your fuse box, should have a diagram of what fuse goes to what on it.

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2012_Mitsubishi_Lancer_SE_2.4L_4_Cyl./fuse_interior/replace

Touch metal prongs to tops of fuse. Should light up led on tester if the fuse is good.

you want the black colored 3m moulding tape. the grey will work, but it is not quite as strong in the long term.

i would also HIGHLY recommend an adhesive promoter like the one i linked below. the OEM kit comes with one & i have found without it, no tape will hold more than a few years.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicator/dp/B018WQ2T3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478025648&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+adhesion+promoter

I love my TurboXS. Only complaint was that it was a tad loud (especially at freeway cruise speed), but after installing one of these, it's perfect.

Are these the turn signal lights youre talking about? How well did the Anzos work for you? Ive heard mixed reviews. I was looking at these depos and they seem to have the best reviews although a bit pricey. As for tail lights i think i like these Anzos best but i havent heard anything about them.

Yes, its awesome https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1