(Part 2) Best products from r/modelmakers

Since you asked for C&C:

1. Seams. Very visible seams along the entire length of the fuselage, and the wing roots. Seams along the leading edge of the wings as well.
   
   
2. Decals: From a distance, they look reasonably good, but realistically, in the future, use a gloss coat and decal setting solution like Micro Sol, followed by a flat coat once the decals have set. Some of the decals upon close inspection are silvered, i.e. the clear film of the decal is visible. Ideally, it should not be and simply appear painted on. Those clear film outlines shouldn't be visible. It looks like what you did was apply the decals directly onto the flat paint, which is why that's the case. They also don't look like they're sticking properly, or you're applying gloss (or is that decal film?) only where the decal is being applied, creating localized areas of glossy paint/surface that doesn't look like it belongs on the rest of the model.
   
   
3. Paint is a bit thick on the chin turret, it has visible texture. But I imagine you brush paint, so that's more likely to occur. Thin your paints a bit more next time and be mindful of that, but it doesn't look bad.
   
   
4. There are various splotches on the model (or are those fingerprints from a dusty model that's been handled?), along the tail, and left wing. If they are splotches, try to avoid those next time.
   
   
5. Mask your markings using tape, e.g the triangular "K" on the tail fin. Yes, including the lettering. It takes five or six minutes to draw and cut a mask out of something like a post-it note to use as a stencil, and looks way better. Or since you're brush painting, draw it directly onto the model and just carefully fill in the lines.
   
   
6. Canopy frames are detached from the body of the plane, but I suspect that's because that area has relatively difficult fit.
   
   
7. Canopy frame masking: the turret above the cockpit's frames are messily painted.
   
   
8. Bleeding paint: you can see where the olive green/drab has bled into the lighter gray below, see e.g. the area near the nose cone, just below the pinup drawing.
   
   
9. Looking back at your previous models, I think you need to read up on doing decal work. Plenty of tutorials on youtube.
   
   
10. Use a much smaller brush to freehand your markings. In some cases, I'd say you'd need an 5/0 to 20/0 brush (available at art stores) For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R9SB3UM/ref=asc_df_B00R9SB3UM5278077/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00R9SB3UM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071540295&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13272101989228897543&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004075&hvtargid=pla-324041884931. I use rounds and liners most frequently, but whatever.
    
    
11. I would skip adding more weathering for now or stuff like that. Focus on getting a perfect, clean build first. Also, I'd recommend something other than Revell USA for your next kit. Consider: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-North-American-Mustang/dp/B000LFWIV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511368443&sr=8-1&keywords=Tamiya+p-51D, or Airfix's Spitfire PR.XIX: https://www.amazon.com/Airfix-Supermarine-Spitfire-Airplane-Building/dp/B00BBCO9OE/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1511368490&sr=8-12&keywords=airfix+spitfire
    
    Both have relatively simple paint schemes, and both assemble well.
    
    Not bad overall, but many areas where improvements can be had. Hope that helps! And anyway, have fun.
    

Hi there!

Yeah, I think it's manageable! Just, and this goes for any model really, take your time, go over the instructions carefully and enjoy! Watch out for the wheel assemblies, as they tend to be tricky? Personally I attach them as late as possible because they have a tendency to break off during building.

Price of materials is tricky. Are you going to buy an airbrush, or just paint it with paintbrushes?

First of all you need some good glue. I use Tamiya Extra Thin (commonly known as TET) and revell contacta the most.

The paints I primarily use are Tamiya Acrylics. They can be used for both airbrush and regular brushes, they go for about €3.5 for 23ml. Get the black, white, grey and some specific colors for this build. You'll build up your colors as you go along, of course.I recommend getting a good primer as well (if you're airbrushing, not sure about paintbrush).

Don't forget a good Matt and Gloss varnsih; Tamiya has these as well, but for airbrushing I use Vallejo ( https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Matt-Model-Color-Varnish/dp/B000PH9JPA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_21_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KPJYCY6DQZ4FWN07X0QP )

These for sealing your colors and making sure your decals don't silver.

For the rest, you definitely need a good X-Axcto knife. (like, €4?) They're pretty cheap and last ages if you treat them right! Get some spare blades though, as they dull over time!

If you want your decals to lay down good, get some micro set and micro sol ( https://www.amazon.com/Decal-Setting-Solution-Micro-Scale-Package/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=micro+sol&qid=1562308408&s=gateway&sr=8-1 ) They're about €10. You don't *need* them, but they make the decals adhere to your model much better and give a great look too.

​

I think that's about it. Like any hobby you can go as cheap or as expensive as you like. If you need any help, feel free to shoot me a PM!

​

Edit: also read this: https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/9dhsqo/new_to_model_building_this_thread_is_here_to/

So what are you planning on painting? Are we talking entire models, or just detail work, or doing mini painting like /r/minipainting?

Reason I ask is that kinda gives reason as to what to buy.

I do a lot of hand painting as do a great deal of warhammer models, for these you need a decent set of kolinksy sable brushes but they're not cheap. I have brushes from the Army Painter, from Windsor Newton, from Citadel all of which aren't cheap. I have a decent set of synthetic brushes for doing lesser critical work but generally stick to sable for detail work. In honesty it's very rare to use a 00/000/0000 brush, the reason is they hold such little paint the paint can dry on them really quickly. You can paint the same detail with a 1 or a 0 as a 0000 if you're careful.

I'd suggest to work out exactly what you're after first, if it's to do entire models then check out videos from the likes of Owen at Quickkits as he brushes all his models.

If I were starting out fresh and wanted a good set of brushes off the bat I'd honestly buy this set by Army Painter. Yes it's not cheap, but it's got decent detail brushes, standard size and large area brushes. It's also got a nice set of coarse drybrushes.

Something else to consider is brush care, afterall you spend a fortune on brushes and then they split etc, it's a really sad day when one of my WN brushes splits.

A few tips from me, never fully load a brush, never fill it to the metal ferrule with paint, in honesty half full is too much imo. Always thin your paint. Routinely rinse your brush and have two pots to rinse. First water pot for a propper rinse, then a second pot to rinse finally. Dry by wiping along a paper towel. At the end of a painting session, take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and use a brush cleaner/preserver like Masters. You don't want paint to dry within the bristles or the ferrule as this will make the brush split, so always keep them wet, don't let paint dry in your brush. Always store horizontally with the plastic bristle protector on, never leave a brush bristle down in a water pot ever. But be prepared that even a really well maintained brush, used a decent amount will die after six-eight months or so.

Firstly, as it was me that recommended that video I'd like to add, for the benefit of the more experienced members of this group, the caveat that yes, I know the techniques in the video are rough and ready as hell, but OP asked for absolute beginner level advice and that's what's given.

So, at 4:36 they're applying a primer from an aerosol can (probably this one). He doesn't prime or paint most of the other parts because mostly the plastic is already the right colour but doing this adds a little visual interest and helps differentiate the cockpit from the rest of the kit.

At 8:26 he's using a cotton bud with the thinner you mention to clean off the excess panel line wash. Personally I would have done this before applying the decals. Speaking of which, decal set and sol will ease and improve the application of your decals but they're not strictly necessary. Warm tap water will work just fine for now.

At 09:26 and 12:10 he's applying varnishes (both matte, I believe). These are used to seal in what's underneath and protect them from future stages. The first to seal in the wash and the second to seal in the weathering powders because otherwise they'd rub off every time you handled the model. Again, I wouldn't say they're necessary as such but I'd recommend applying one between the washes and the powders because otherwise you risk contamination of the little brush set. And again, ideally you'd use an airbrush to apply the varnishes but any model shop should have them in aerosol cans. Just make sure to apply it as a light mist rather than drowning it.

Seriously considering getting an airbrush since brush painting is my least favorite part of modeling lol. I have a large stand up compressor but it doesn't have a moisture trap. Price wise to get everything I need to use my current compressor I could get this set for a little less money. I'd get a better brush down the road if I I liked airbrushing but would this be a decent starting set or should I just save up a little more and hope I enjoy it lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1486139264&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

Hey! :) I also use a hi-powered magnifying glass (a cheap $5 camera +10 macro filter) mounted onto a Flexible Helping Hand). Detail painting becomes infinitely easier when you can see what you're doing. Lots of light also makes all the difference.

in addition to the excellent information /u/bmatys has provided, for fine painting, I use oil paints on acrylic or lacquer gloss coats. This way one is able to use a combination of paint application and removal (with turpentine) to get really fine strokes. Make sure the turpentine/thinner doesn't attack the paint coat you already have on. Obviously you're using the thinnest brush you have at hand.

Also it's a good idea to support the palm of your hand to steady your strokes.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B000BMYWXI/

This is the only basic tool set I know of.

That said, I would recommend getting a nice spruce cutter:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/

X-acto knifes are essential, such as the #2 large blade which is probably the most essential tool you will need.
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Knife-Cap-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O/

Other miscellaneous tools you should get: Q-tips, fine and regular for cleaning tools, weathering with pigments, etc. Fine-tipped tweezers are also very useful. I recommend using Tamiya's extra thin cement, as well as regular cyanoadhesives for painted parts on your model. You will also definitely want some sanding tools, I recommend going to the Dollar Tree or w/e and getting a bunch of medium and fine nail filing sticks. They are cheap and work excellent on models. Tamiya also makes a line of very fine grit sandpaper (1,000, 1,500, 2,000, 2500, etc.) that can make a nice polished surface, as well as sand down thick paint.

A few tips to help you out OP:

1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.
   
   
2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.
   
   
3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.
   
   
4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.
   
   
5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.
   
   
6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.
   
   edit:
   
   A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
   
   

• A fine point tweezers. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Flat-Tweezers-Electronic-Repair/dp/B00880EDIO/
  
  
• Toothpicks
  
  
• Cotton swabs
  
  
• Compressed air can
  
  
• If you don't have good light in where ever you setup to work, get a good desk lamp
  
  
• A cutting mat like this: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/
  

Enamel paints and thinners have some nasty organic solvents. You better have a good spray booth or at least an exhaust fan close to your table. I wear respirator masks and safety goggles too since paint and thinner solvents are volatile. I also use nitrile gloves in order to prevent skin contact with nasty organic solvents. My work desk has an improvised spray booth with a pair of surplus 120mm server fans for exhaust.

Acrylic is safe for skin contact but inhaling airborne particles is another story. It's best have a spray booth/exhaust fan and respirator just to be safe. The solvents are non-toxic though. They are mostly composed of water and some isopropanol/butanol as solvents.

Here's a cheap air brush and compressor set from Amazon that I currently use. I'm trying to cut corners this time since I spent a lot for the kits and paints in the past few months lol. The compressor is rather weak so it might take some time to get used to it. I use it in short bursts since the compressor runs hot.

For enamels, I use 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner since my El cheapo air brush can't sustain constant air pressure. I find Revell enamels to be more suitable for air brushing. Humbrol enamels tend to be too thick and needs more thinner. They can be quite tricky to use. I use Mr. Hobby self levelling lacquer thinner for both enamels and Tamiya acrylics. It smells like hell though so you'll definitely need a spray booth or exhaust.

For Vallejo acrylics, I use a cocktail mix of air brush thinner, air brush flow improver and paint retarder. I use 1 part of that cocktail mix and 1 part Model Air. All of them are sold separately by Vallejo. For Tamiya acrylics, I treat it similar to lacquer and enamel paints. Also, Vallejo polyurethane primers work wonders for both acrylics and enamels. The paint binds well to such primers. You might want to give it a shot.

My tip is to try one technique at a time. Take your time working on a single kit. Start mastering the basics of base coat painting using your air brush. Then proceed to painting multiple coats, camouflage patterns, masking techniques etc. Eventually, work on the weathering process. Also, start with cheap model kits for practice so you won't bleed money for the hobby.

Welcome to the club and good luck!

Okay, thanks. What else would I need.. THe knife and the primer for now? Thats it? You dont know how much i appreciate this. ALso is this a good model? Im looking for something hard to put together, but also includes paints and is in my price range. This is the best ive got. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055ANWKA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Y0OWTP8E47U9&psc=1




Also are there any other vehicles that include the paints that arent a plane? Just asking because my son and I both love a lot more vehicles than we love planes

OK.... so in roughly the same order you asked (and I know this will be a long response)....

To me, the paint ratio is more a guide than a formula. I'm looking more for the right consistency than number of drops. Some paints require more thinning than others. Yawningangle mentions Alclad - their paint is formulated for airbrushing, so you don't need to thin it out at all. If the paint in the cup has about the same consistency as milk, it will spray.

I generally use 20-30 PSI, more often the lower values. I like to spray a bit thinner and at lower PSI so that I get thin, even coats with less chance of runs, drips, etc.. The higher PSI values can dry the paint out faster, leading to a pebbly texture on the model.

Masking - I use Tamiya's tape for detail work:
6mm Tape dispenser
10mm Tape dispenser
18mm Tape dispenser
40mm Tape roll
It's a thin rice paper that has more flex than plastic scotch tape and is much thinner than most masking tapes. Good stuff. It will still bubble and ripple over compound curves, but you can work around this by cutting it into thin strips and layering it - see this article for examples.

A dremel works too fast for polishing car models; you'll go through the paint at that speed. It's better to work by hand with some fine polishing clothes. I'm a big fan of Micro-Mesh and you can get starter kits fairly inexpensively that will work great on a project like this.

With regards to the dash - generally, if you're not happy the best thing to do is either live with it or strip it off and start over. It's a big enough pain in the butt that I will sometimes just live with it and leave the windows up or canopy down. ;)

Heres a link to the airbrush kit I started with. I got good results with the 2 gravity feed brushes it comes with. Im still using the air compressor with the Iwata brush I upgraded to:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1517488015&sr=1-6&keywords=airbrush+kit

Personally, I like Tamiya branded supplies. Their kits have great details and Ill also use their masking tape, primer, and paints. I like acrylic paint in general since its easy to clean i.e. wash everything out in the kitchen sink with water.

For clear coating, Ive used testors dullcote and glosscote and had good results over Tamiya paint except for when I spray too much at once with the rattle can. For that reason Im thinking of switching to Mr. Color super clear so I can use it with my airbrush and have more control and a finer mist.

I use Microset & Microsol with my decals

Vallejo acrylic putty is easy to use. Model Master cement (for thicker more viscous applications) and Tamiya extra thin cement for the fine detail work. Tamiya line accent color (black or brown) for my panel lining. I wipe it off with testors enamel thinner.

For weathering pigments, MIG products work well or you can DIY by scraping artist pastels and using the dust created.

Finally, most of my small tools (knife, chisel/scraper, tweezers) are branded "excel". I think that is just the brand my local hobby store happens to sell.

There are of course many more options for materials/supplies that work great for modelling but this is just a sampling of the brands that I use on my kits.

Thanks! Honestly I just kind of winged it. The parts that are rusty were done with the Sophisticated Finishes rust set. It's a 2 step process. You paint the area you want rusted with an iron solution, then paint it with a bluish watery substance that actually rusts it.
Everything else was done with these. Most of what you see is the orange rust. The seats have the gray, which I think does a good job replicating aged vinyl. All off the engine parts are covered in the oil stain, along with the inside of the windows.
And, of course, a good old brown/black wash on everything.

All in one session, all you need are the right tools and the right technique.

Tools:

Decal softener, a pair of tweezers with rounded tips ("2A" in this set), cotton swabs and those cotton rolls used by dentists.
Cotton rolls are amazing because they are compact and they are meant to absorb a lot of liquid without fraying.
My dentist gave me a bunch of rolls a year ago and i've used only one of them until now, i've cut one in half to obtain 2 little cotton rolls about the size of the last part of a pinky finger and i threw away the first one only because it was starting to get dirty.

Technique:

So far i've found this technique that works really well for me, keep in mind that some manufacturer use really thick decals (Hasegawa, Revell) that are more resilient to decal softener and manipuation while decals from other manufacturers or aftermarket decal sets use a really thin carrier that dissolves easily, this means that it's easier to tear or even smear the decal (i'm not kidding!).

Here's what i did on my Super Hornet

• Put a drop of decal softner on the model where the decal will be placed (warning: if you are using one of those really soft decals mentioned above use a drop of water instead of softner, add softner later once the excess water is removed and the decal is not moving around anymore)
  
• If the decal is thick enough place it in position using tweezers, otherwise use the classic "hold the decal and slide the paper from under it"
  
• Adjust the position of the decal using tweezers and absorbing the excess water from under it by touching the edges with a cotton swab
  
• Use the cotton swab to press the decal on surfaces full of details such as grills, this will remove water from under it and it will adapt the decal to the recesses.
  
• Use the cotton swab to remove the rest of water from under the decal by rolling it on the decal, from center to the outer edges.
  
• You can use the cotton roll instead of the cotton swab for the last two steps, specially if the decal is small enough to be covered by the cotton roll: gently place the roll on the decal and then press without moving.
  
  If some decals are really close to each other pressing the cotton roll to absorb excess water will help to avoid disturbing the other decals while maintaining a good adhesion. The cotton roll is big enough to cover most decals and act as a "pad" on the whole surface, pressing the decals evenly and removing any water that is squeezed out from under the decal.
  
  You will have to be creative with some decals, recently i had to put decals inside the intakes of the Super Bug and there was not enough space to insert tweezers, let alone removing excess water from the corners of the intakes with cotton rolls/swabs. I had to roll some kitchen paper and move it around with tweezers.
  
  A friendly reminder: Decals (not all of them) are mobile for some time after the decal is set, try not to touch them with your fingers and always avoid pulling/twisting movements with your tools for some time or (even better) once it's sealed under gloss paint
  

> Is it likely that inhaling the VOCs in the paint caused any damage?

Yes. There is a really damn good reason why every bottle of paint says to only use in well ventilated areas, and that's because both because inhaling VOC's, and inhaling literally anything other than air is pretty bad for your lungs.

Stop working in poorly ventilated spaces. If you can't find a better space, get a spray booth for about $100. If you absolutely, positively cannot work in a better space or get a spray booth, get a respirator with VOC cartridges. Should only cost like $20. The respirator is a last ditch effort to keep your brain and lungs intact, and is far from the ideal solution.

But it's better than inhaling VOC's all day.

All good advice you've received so far.

I'd also get some sprue cutters (also called flush cutters) - they are like wire cutters except one side of the blades is flat so you can cut near to the part and leave little or no attachment point. If there is one, file it off as /u/warlock27 suggests.

You can usually find cheap ones online or in a hobby shop, here's some on Amazon so you know what I'm referring to:

https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478566221&sr=8-1&keywords=sprue+cutter

(sorry for the long link)

Otherwise a hobby knife is good for part removal too, and cleaning up any parts.

It will snap together fine, I've built a couple of similar models and am surprised how well they fit and click together. But can't hurt to get some plastic cement - Tamiya Extra Thin is usually the top recommendation.

Plus may be an idea to get some small needle-nosed pliers and tweezers for handling small parts - again either from a hobby shop or most electronics, craft or hardware stores will have something (or chemist/drugstore for tweezers).

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

As far as weathering goes, these will do wonders: https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Weathering-Master-6-Sets-Japan/dp/B00M66FM86

Super easy to use and look great.

The side cutters are cheap ones from amazon

Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P4PzDbEY3W097

The two black tweezers, square file and sanding sponge came in a crappy tool set I found on amazon.

Something like this set: Keadic 43Pcs Gundam Modeler Basic Tools Craft Set for Professional Model Assemble Building (Kit 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NMH65RV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i8PzDbJNHPJ2M

None of the tools are great but they will do until I can afford better stuff. There’s a lot of stuff you will want if you are going to paint your models and most of it is cheap but adds up. Thiners, primers, paints, brushes, clear coats etc.

This is my station now
https://i.imgur.com/5HPJfTq.jpg

I found a kit on amazon for around 80 bucks. It came with a compressor and three types of airbrushes.
PointZero Airbrush Dual Action Airbrush Kit with 3 Guns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8mMivZb67PArw
It's not top quality, but I've been happy with it, and it comes with a DVD that has tons of useful info for a beginner on it.

Basically, when a compressor has an air tank it gives you a steadier supply of air, less pulsations, while also extending the life of the compressor itself.

The AS186 that /u/whatsmyloginagain brought up is similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=master+airbrush+compressor&qid=1563943691&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Compressors that have more than one piston also provide more airflow and less pulsations. You're basically buying a very basic compressor for a premium price if you choose the grex bundle. I'm sure the grex has better quality control, but the majority of people who have purchased tankless compressors (including myself) have come to regret it.

On the airbrush front, I second what whatsmyloginagain brought up. Buying an Infinity is basically buying a top tier brush for this hobby and gunpla. I'd recommend looking at Mr Hobby/GSI Creos airbrushes before you decide to purchase an Iwata, as theres a 99% chance they're made by the same company. Check out spraygunner.com if you want to browse through the Mr Hobby line. Alternatively, you could order straight from a Japanese hobby shop and save a couple of dollars, but lose out on any sort of customer support.

IIRCC, Tamiya has only a glossy clear spray. The only ones I know are these:

• Testors Flat Spray
  
• Testors Glosscote Spray
  
• Tamiya Clear Spray
  
  I've used Tamiya rattle cans in the past, and they are pretty fool-proof. And the Testors products are used by a lot of people, so I doubt they're much harder to use.

After you finish building and doing the primary paint, put on a coat of Future (that is the brand)- it will be shiny, but this will help protect the model and let you decal and weather it easier. After you get the decals on and your weathering (including panel lines), you can go shiny with another coat of Future, or go matte (normal) with a spray matte finish ($few at your local model store, or here is the one I like).

Canadians: This isn't really a sale item, but worth mentioning. Amazon.ca has the 1/48 Airfix spitfire/Bf109E combo for $35 with free Prime shipping (if that's a thing you have). The two models that are in that kit retail for $35 each, plus you get paint and glue. So this is a steal. You can grab one here:

https://www.amazon.ca/Airfix-Plastic-Models-Kits-Messerschmitt/dp/B00IJZIECE/

A pair of flush-cut nippers was a game-changer for me. I find they're extremely helpful for removing the parts from the sprues. Something like these should work fine while you're starting out.

Hey! I began airbrushing only last year, so I was looking for a cheap starting kit. And for now, this hardware is perfect for my needs:
https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Compressor-Airbrush-Painting-Manicure/dp/B078J1FBVG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1TJ68R39WI5PG&keywords=airbrush+kit&qid=1558961902&s=gateway&sprefix=airbrush%2Caps%2C1101&sr=8-4


For 40 bucks it's a real bargain.

If going the spray can route, I'd also recommend one of black paint, as the Redstone, Saturn Ib, and Saturn V all have large chunks of black.


Sprue cutters would also be a good investment, too.

I bought this ONE
about 4 months ago and have built about 6 kits with it and it has performed great.

You are right that acrylics are relatively safe. You still don't want to breathe in the particles though. Just get one of them spray booths https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Lighting-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503908992&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=spray+booth&psc=1 and extend the hose with something similar from Home Depot.

Do you know if the Testors is any good? I've also had people tell me you can't use lacquers over acrylics, is this true?

or you could save $40

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543186319&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=thunderline+circle+cutter

>is there any advice you guys could give me so that I end up ruining the finish on my kits?

Why certainly, just spray with tar thinned with engine oil, i garuantee you will end up ruining the finish on your kits =D

On topic though since i'm not much of a DIY-er and looking for a spray booth myself, i've found they don't have to be very expensive.
Example 1
Example 2

Those have a hose that you can hang out the window making ventilation no longer a problem.
Disclaimer though: i'm still looking and haven't actually used any of these nor done much research into them yet so they might be utter crap, but hopefully some fellow modelers will have experience?

If you want to recreate the picture, paint with thinned (you can use water or alcohol) mr.hobby gloss black, silver, and dip the windows in acrylic floor wax. Then you'll need to polish that with some super fine sandpaper, 15,000 grit.

Shopping list:

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement: 5$

Mr. Hobby Gloss Black 4$

Mr. Hobby Silver 4$

Paintbrush set 5$

Sandpaper 25$

• Never get your glue on the windows.
Use something washable for attatching windows like Elmer's Glue.

• Do not paint everything and assemble rather paint as you assemble. Don't get paint on the attatchment points because that will make the cement useless.

Edit: I got the prices on the Mr. Hobby wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLQ019A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_RmAPwb98YHZ9A it works really well, I haven't had any issues with it so far.

Measure and draw would work too! Actually that's what I did for the roundels -- found comparable sized circle shapes around the bench (bottle cap, pencil eraser, etc) and used them to trace circles onto the tape to cut out the roundel stencils. Figured out later that a compass cutter probably would have saved a lot of time and been more precise.

It’s part of the Airfix 1/72 double pack. Came with glue, paint and two models. The other one was a Zero.

Here’s a link in amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055ANWKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CnCiyxqpNKcYC

I got this kit on Amazon. Not a workhorse, nor quality but it works for minor jobs where I need to cover a small area quickly.

I travel a lot so have this for painting when in my hotel room.

Saw this on Amazon recently: Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth with LED Lighting Looks basic but has the necessary components as far as I can tell.

I just got one and the thing is a piece of junk. I returned it and got a whole set of three really high quality airguns and a compressor for about 80 bucks. Here is the link for it btw: https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536461562&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush