Best products from r/modular

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.

Thanks! Glad I could be helpful.

The reflow station/solder paste is just awesome. The results are so much better than the hand soldering I tried to do initially.
My tips for the hot air reflow- Keep the air speed low (I do 1.5 - 1.75 speed @ 350c), you don't want to send the components sliding around the PCB. You only need a tiny dab of solder paste on a tinned board, otherwise you'll end up with little balls of solder where the excess collects. These can be knocked off with tweezers, but you should be careful to check for them as they can cause shorts.

I forgot one of the most useful tools out there! This is maintained by one of the FB Euro SMD DIY Noobs members.

This is the repository I use for .hex files. It's maintained by another SMD Noobs member.

These are the tweezers I use for handling SMD parts.

You'll also want a flux pen! Flux pens are wonderful.

I'd also suggest a magnifying glass or jeweler's loup of some sort for inspecting the PCB for shorts. I use a 10x loupe.



Here's a pic of my current workspace in an unusually clean state.

My SMD component filing technique. A work in progress.

Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

>What does it provide you over just the PICO mixer...

It has mono to stereo splitter. I use this stereo to dual mono splitter cable and send to 2 channels on the mixer. I can now pan left/right through the Mackie mixer.

>You can't just plug your headphones into the PICO mixer?

I honestly never tried. It might depend on the quality of headphones but sure, you can try it. Just have the mixer volume very low to start.

>Why do you have an external mixer?

Yes, to bring in other devices and be able to control those with the mixer. It also has USB so I can connect to my laptop.

Honestly, I built the Befaco Output before I had the PICO AMIX and my external mixer. I went with that module because it had 1/4" jacks which I could connect to my amp. I think you may find better solutions but it depends what you want to do. Within your case, if you have enough modules you will definitely want to have a eurorack mixer or you wont have enough connections for your outputs.

I hope this is helping. Feel free to ask as many questions as you need.

>Thank you for the incredibly informative reply! I've been reading up on this a bit but I'm still unsure: what's the difference in quality, latency, and software/hardware compatibility between tradition '5-din' MIDI, MIDI to USB / USB-MIDI and USB (where either both sides are USB or like [this](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6368450382305919329&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033574&hvtargid=pla-181858139331&psc=1)? For example, my digital piano has a 5 pin MIDI 'DIN', is this different in any way (software/hardware compatibility, quality etc) from the example cable provided in the link? I hear all kinds of different opinions on the matter. And it's extra confusing to me because my computer doesn't have a MIDI in port, so it's going to have to get changed into USB anyway. I mean maybe the desktop has top has MIDI in, but I'm not even sure if there's advantages there.
>
>At any rate, I think I've boiled it down to either the Keystep or Microbrute. I'm going to use softsynths with either, so I'm not sure if the Keystep has any advantages here other than being cheaper.
>
>Sorry for the rant and thanks for the help so far, it's been very helpful.

I'd pick up this book: http://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Electronic-Music-Hardware-Hacking/dp/0415998735/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1412952260&sr=1-1&keywords=handmade+electronic+music

Amazing and essential book for diy'ers. Lots of passive curcuits you could just put on panels. Pretty much all the circuits in here are easily adaptable to euro. I just finished a six square wave osc based on something from this book. If you want details you can PM me. Synthrotek and erthenvar are good places to get parts like custom rails, panels, power headers, etc...

The Horowitz/Hill bible is great, he's a physicist/EE. For some people, though, his interest in the physics isn't necessarily what they geek out on, and so for those people I'd suggest also Practical Electronics for Inventors.

https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Electronics-Inventors-Third-Scherz/dp/0071771336

I found this book to be very easy for beginners to pick up and enjoy, and get started on building far more quickly.

I don't know any particular brand, but checkout cable sleeving. If anything, I hope using "sleeve" in your search will help. I'm surprised I haven't seen more about sleeving on here with the diy ethic of the modular community. This might be what you are after: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YL2CL6. I've used destuffed nylon rope from the hardware store and some shrink wrap to sleeve cables before.

how about these ... two pieces of wood and you good to go, I used these into pedal board (protec there are two sizes good for modular) that can do over 100HP per line (two lines) but I end up with 1U or something similar in the middle. The only down side is that modules cannot be too deep in those cases. (BTW love your article)

​

https://www.amazon.com/Protec-Stonewood-Pedalboard-Redesigned-Strong/dp/B00KWOX57O

https://store.synthrotek.com/Eurorack-Rails_p_379.html

This one has be perfect for my 7u Intellijel case.
It also folds up super small for traveling.

www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY0BLB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vcBYCb67PHAYD

This is the stand I bought for my EP-360 and it fits perfectly, the legs don't get in the way, and it puts the case at a nice angle to patch with while I have my beatstep pro in front.

Here's a photo of my setup so y'all can see if this would work for y'all!

That looks like something you'd build into an RV. If I wanted an all-in-one solar generator/battery with an inverter output (sticking with the same brand), I might try this one. Emphasis on might. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K60N1DQ/ref=emc_b_5_t

My present battery is a Suaoki solar generator (~200Wh) with a separate (Suaoki, foldable, 60W) solar panel. Total price was about $320. I already had a Behringer MPA40BT-Pro. So I have a good, loud enough battery powered speaker. That setup easily does me several hours at camp without a need to recharge.

I'm not shure where you from but i just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.de/Hosa-GMP386-Adapter-3mm-TS-3/dp/B001CJ68KE/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1522004329&sr=8-14&keywords=trs+adapter

Edit: US
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GMP-386-inch-3-5-Adaptor/dp/B001CJ68KE/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1522004965&sr=8-14&keywords=trs+adapter

it does not matter that it is stereo the ring will just get shorted to ground

Sorry, wasn’t trying to be a jerk.

If you’re getting into modular synths and you don’t have a good grasp of basic electronic theory, I highly recommend this book:

Handmade Electronic Music by Nicolas Collins

https://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Electronic-Music-Hardware-Hacking/dp/0415998735/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541778119&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=handmade+electronic+music&dpPl=1&dpID=51rgvIc6vvL&ref=plSrch

Having a decent understand of what’s going to happen before you do something will help you understand what your modules are actually doing, come up with new patches, avoid damaging anything, and a host of other benefits.

To be more precise, I mean something like this . They make lots of stuff apparently.

Do not buy a cheap soldering iron to start out with, you will just end up having to replace it. Buy either a Hakko or Weller soldering station, and you'll be fine.