(Part 2) Best products from r/motorcycles

I'm 21, 6'2" and 190. Before the MSF class, I had never ridden anything, so I know exactly how you feel. Let me see what I can do:

> So, besides taking the MSF course, what can I do to learn more?

After the MSF class, read or watch Twist of the Wrist 2
(note: you can find these elsewhere for free) TotW 1 is good too, but 2 is more focused on practical street riding.

> What should I know (I realize this may be early since I haven't had any experience yet)?

Before you even touch a bike, you should know that motorcycles are in fact dangerous when compared to other methods of transportation. Be knowledgeable of the studies that prove it. Also, understand that while the activity is inherently dangerous there are many ways to reduce risk. The MSF class should cover most of this, but here's a couple that should be drilled into your head:

• Gear up. All of it. Helmet, Jacket, Gloves, Boots, and something on your legs with more protection than a pair of Levi's.
  
  
• Gear up ALL THE TIME
  
  
• Don't ride in blind spots
  
  
• Always be aware of your surroundings
  
  
• Ride like every car is trying to kill you, because they are
  
  
• Don't be a squid
  
  >Here in Arizona passing the MSF course waives your skills and written test for a license and I have a hard time believing that 2.5 days of experience is enough for me to feel comfortable riding around without more practice.
  
  I took the MSF class and picked up a Ninja 250 a month later with no practice in between. I puttered around the neighborhood streets for a while (about 200 miles worth of residential and <40mph streets) before I took it out on the highway. Mostly, work on your coordination. Keeping track of what gear you're in and what order you pull levers and push pedals can be confusing when you're also making sure you don't get run over. Practice until you're confident.
  
  > Also, I was looking around some dealers this past weekend and almost unanimously they said to ignore the MSF teachers' advice to go for a 250cc bike for a learner because I would "outgrow" it within a few months.
  
  Wrong. Well, Kind of. It's less the amount of time you own it and more the amount of technically challenging miles you've put on it. One piece of advice I love to give to people considering the 250 is this: Don't ever let anyone tell you that you need to have a big bike to be a good rider.
  
  I had my 250 for 3 months and put 3800 miles on it and I was still working on my form when I wrecked it. The people that get bored with a 250 in a couple months are the ones that go fast in straight lines. They upgrade to a 600 supersport, lowside it once and get scared shitless. It's why there are so many cosmetically damaged supersports on the market.
  
  > I've seen a lot of testimonials to the contrary and I mentioned that and then they said that it would be a safety issue, where a larger bike could accelerate out of accidents that a smaller one would get trapped in. Really, I just get the feeling that they are trying to upsell me on a larger bike but I was curious if these things are true.
  
  Plausible, but unlikely. Power is no substitute for safe riding. I feel a little safer in traffic on my 600 than I did on my 250 simply because I can get out of blind spots faster, but all I'm doing is accelerating to get out of someone's way instead of braking.
  
  And yes, the dealer is definitely trying to sell you a bigger bike. Bigger bike, more money, more commission.
  
  > Finally (wow this is a lot of questions) I was looking at a Ninja 250R, probably a used one since the refresh a couple of years ago. Any input on that as a starter bike?
  
  You should check out r/250r for fellow redditors with the 250r. Also, ninja250.org has one of the biggest knowledge databases on the two-fiddy.
  
  > I know it's a "sportbike" but it seems more like a standard bike with rider positioning. Also, would a guy of my height have an issue with one? I sat on one and compared to other bikes I felt like I was sitting very low and wasn't sure if that was a good thing or not.
  
  Inseam matters more than height. Cycle-ergo is an awesome tool that can tell you roughly where your knees will be and how much you have to lean. Honestly, at 6'2", the 250 was a little small for me. I had one of the older ones which was slightly different, but the new ones I sat on at the dealer were also cramped though there are guys taller than me that ride them comfortably. Next time you go to the dealer, sit on one with your hands on the handlebars and stay there for a while. If it seems a little small don't worry, there are a handful of things you can do to change the ergonomics of the bike. If you're completely uncomfortable after 10 minutes, you may want to look at a bigger bike. (Not a supersport.)
  
  > Basically, any advice you can give me would be great!
  
  I know I threw a lot at you and it may be a little overwhelming. You did the right thing by signing up for the MSF class to see if you're truly interested. If you don't make it through the class, don't worry; riding isn't for everyone. It's dangerous, it's expensive and it's certainly a lifestyle change. You'll find yourself going out of your way to hit the twisties and showing up late to things. You'll neglect other projects on the weekends so you can get some seat time. You'll shave your head to avoid helmet-hair. You'll hear the sound of an engine and whip your head around trying to see what kind of bike it's coming from. You'll lean into turns in your car.
  
  But riding is also one of the most rewarding experiences in the world. Getting over the fear, accepting the danger and finally throwing a leg over a bike is a feeling like no other. Once you do that, you get to experience the silent camaraderie of "the wave," the butterflies in your stomach just as you lean into a corner, the feeling you get whenever you see one of those 'curvy road ahead' signs, the exhilaration of completing a perfect set of twisties, and much, much more.
  
  Riding is awesome, and I'm sure you'll love it. Good luck in your class!
  
  EDIT: Downvotes? Seriously? I sure hope that was a bot.

Just a couple things on your form:

Put your toe on the outside of the peg and pivot from there, this gets the knee in the correct position more naturally. You're big enough that you shouldn't need to hang off more than half a cheek. Also, don't ignore your outside leg, keep the toe pointed into the turn will provide the squeeze against the tank, like an anchor. That will help your lower-body positioning. You should have this done just before you flick it into the turn.

As far as upper body, your vision seems perfect (up and out), but you're still in-line with the bike. If you imagine leaning around the frame of a door to look through, that's the goal. Basically get your chin and shoulder down over the hand grip and keep your eyes up. Also try not to square up your shoulders, instead line them up with the turn.

Once you get comfortable with both of those, it will come together and you'll be tripping the tank with your outside knee and forearm, while your inside knee glides along the pavement!

Aside from body position, throttle control is key. Essentially you want 60% of the weight on the back, 40% on the front. This is achieved with steady, constant roll on the throttle.

As far as suspension goes, I'm not sure if you have rebound on your springs, but at the least set your sag and preloads for your weight. You'll need a friend for this, and a video like this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAWLaLf1Awc&playnext=1&list=PL0E1D32409F421246&feature=results_video

These two books are amazing, cheap, and I absolutely recommend picking up a copy, or if you're ever in KC, hit me up and I'll give them to you! A Twist of the Wrist and A Twist of the Wrist 2, both by Keith Code.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347847984&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Also, your gear on top is perfect but a pair of riding pants with knee pucks and good boots with toe sliders will give you loads more confidence.

Most of all, enjoy it and ride at 80% of what you feel capable of, you'll last a lot longer that way! Ride on.

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

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Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

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Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

As already recommended, DanDan's Youtube is a wealth of good information. I'd also check out MotoJitsu's channel. Both of them do a great job of explaining concepts and giving you visual examples.


While some people think they're antiquated in these days of streaming video, I'm going to recommend a couple of books as well. I've read pretty much every motorcycle book ever published. These two I reread regularly.

https://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760343446/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_

Lee's basic curriculum has replaced MSF in several states, including CA, which has the most riders. The sooner more states follow that lead, the better, IMO. MSF is better than nothing, but it leaves a LOT to be desired. Read his book. He's from Chicago. He gets back home and teaches a few classes a year in the area. https://www.totalcontroltraining.net/

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https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=sr_1_1

Just a TON of great street-oriented info in this book (and its sequel). Covers a lot more than just the physical skills of riding.


Good luck. I'm up in the FAR north suburbs. Gimme a shout when you've got wheels, we'll go on a ride.

You can do that with the Ninja 250. It's all practice. Like V_Glaz_Dam mentioned you should watch the Twist of Wrist 2 series.

Here's something I wrote for one of my friends.

For books, I personally like this one the most. I feel like Nick took a lot information from the Twist of the Wrist books and made it more modern.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1893618072/ref=oh_o02_s01_i00_details



But I also learned a lot from Lee Park's book. Lee Park hosts a rider school where he runs over all the drills in his book and helps with rider technique. You have to google the class schedules but he comes around California at least once or twice a year.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0760314039/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details



The there is the Twist of the Wrist series
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330372612&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330372612&sr=8-2

I haven't read those books but the Twist of Wrist II videos are on youtube so you can check them out.



The last book I would recommend is Proficient Motorcycling. I highly recommended reading that one because it focuses a lot on general riding. Techniques that everyone should learn just to stay alive riding on the road. The book can be found at some libraries so you can save some money by just loaning it.
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1933958359/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330372534&sr=1-1-spell

The rest is all practice.
Also youtube "ninja 250 track" and you'll see a bunch of videos of guys racing their 250s on the track.

I wouldn't get on a track until you are at least familiar with your motorcycle. Get some miles under your belt before you decide to do it. After you are comfortable on your bike I would try to hook up with some local riders who are better than you. That way you can talk to them and learn from their experience. But remember to take most advice with a grain of salt. I personally use meetup.com to meet a lot of other guys to ride with.

I've done everything from the exact interval as specified by the service manual, to maybe not lubing a chain for a whole year on one bike a long time ago.

My experience has been that you SHOULD keep your chain lubed, but also, a high quality chain like a DID x-ring will put up with an amazing amount of use even if you push the interval farther than suggested.

The number one most important point in this discussion, IMVHO, is that you inspect your chain (and sprockets!) frequently and with a careful eye. If you do this often, you should be able to catch any issues developing with your chain before they become a chain failure.

If you see visible rust, its time for a hardcore cleaning and re-lube. I like kerosene and a chain brush for cleaning, and a wax based spray lube for relubrication. A scottoiler is a great addition to any bike as long as you don't mind doing the install and keeping an eye on it to ensure it is dripping at the correct rate (and to refill it before it runs dry).

The only things I'm going to say to add to this in depth post is that not all states require a permit before your MSF class. I didn't need one in Washington State. So look up your state's laws and see what you need to do. Also, my class was $125, I think.

You'll need boots that go above the ankle and gloves and long sleeves before you take the class. If you know you're going to be riding for sure, you can go and get good gear beforehand, but even someone as ATGATT as myself was fine with jeans and my regular jacket rather than full gear. The fastest I went was maybe 25 in a smooth parking lot without anything more dangerous than a cone to hit. Yes, there's the risk of injury, but my four layers (it was cold) would have protected me enough for that, I think. There was zero risk of hitting another car, and a small chance of hitting another bike (in most classes, mine had three people, one failed, and so it was two of us).

I agree with a 250 bike of some sort. I started on a Rebel 250 and loved it, but I'm 5'1" and a size four (I'm female) so it was fine for me. Anybody over about 5'5" would be too tall for the Rebel. But find what kind of bike you want -- sports bike, cruiser, standard, etc. -- and get one with a low curb weight and smaller engine. Just for now. I've actually never completely dropped a bike, but twice I've tipped bikes over. The Rebel was in my MSF class and I got it upright on my own. The second was my brand new Harley, riding it back from the dealership, and I couldn't get the bike up on my own, my husband had to help. Tipping the Rebel, and knowing how to get it upright on my own meant that when I tipped the Harley I didn't panic and I could hold it until my husband got over to me (he had followed me home, so I knew he was there and he could help). Had he not been there I would have figured it out, I'm sure, but knowing I could do it for a smaller bike at least caused me not to panic and not to let go.

Also, get this book. http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Safety-Foundations-Motorcycling-Excellence/dp/1884313477/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1332116572&sr=1-1 The "textbook" I got during my MSF class was a light version of this. But I read this before my class, showed up an hour late accidentally (which is normally an immediate dismissal), and breezed through the classroom stuff because I'd read the book. That was the only reason I was allowed to stay. The other book was a joke compared to the amount of information in this one. I read it over the course of two weeks before my class. It was because of this book I knew how to stand the bike up after having tipped it, even on my own (my instructor came over, but didn't touch it). I was seriously the Hermione of the class having read this book beforehand.

Otherwise, I completely agree with the others. Take the class, start on a small bike, don't forget to buy gear enough to keep you as alive as possible, look up the laws of your state, and enjoy it!

If I'm going to work, I roll up my hi-vis vest and stuff it into my helmet with my gloves and put it in a locker at work. Out in public, I lock my helmet to my passenger peg with a pistol bore lock. Forgot what video I watched that someone used it, but it's been a life changer not having to carry a helmet around or leaving it unsecured on the bike. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ2Z322/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YW2BzbK65F9WK

Also, I'd recommend some earplugs if you don't want to listen to music or if you're making a short trip somewhere. These are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V2SS9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pV2BzbM5W9MEA

If you do want to listen to music, a pair of Shure 215's are great if you don't want a communicator. They're considered monitors, so they have passive noise canceling and foam eartips to block outside noise. Plus they sound amazing, so when you're not on the bike, you have some quality headphones to listen to music with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PNZFZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_602BzbPVGC44Q

Those three things have made riding and commuting more enjoyable. And, they all fit in a small 5.11 pouch I have attached to my battery cover. Hope all this helps.

I'm going to recommend something a little unconventional around here: an actual paper book.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760313318/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_6wgwybXHCREVS

I bought this sort of on a whim when I started riding and was in the same position as you, and it was unbelievably informative and interesting to read. Its slightly out of date in that it precedes the advent of common electronic aides, but 100% of the stuff in the book is useful.

Also, while I'm recommending books for new riders, Lee Park's "Total Control" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760343446/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Mxgwyb3MVM3CF) is an absolutely brilliant book. Its specifically about street riding (as opposed to track) and is targed towards newish riders. This book basically singlehandedly changed me from a hesitating novice to a confident (though a little reckless, it taught me to ride well but doesn't teach thoughtfulness the way Keith Code does) rider.

And, of course, the great grand daddy of them all, Twist of the Wrist 2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0965045021/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aygwyb1BB573F). This book is so good and so dense that I still find new things to practice every page or two. The definitive riding technique book for good reason. No, you don't need to read part 1.

I recommend this brand of battery tender, they make smaller and bigger ones, but this one is good for maintaining any 12 V lead acid battery. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

Here’s a good winterization checklist. www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

And I recommend using this gas treatment when it’s time to park, treat your gas, run it some to get treated gas everywhere then top off the tank. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

And your battery tender comes with a quick disconnect pigtail to make it easy to plug it in, this is a useful accessory as well. www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I highly recommend these ear plugs.

They don't muffle sounds and only lower the volume once it gets to harmful volume levels. You can hear safe volumes about 90% as clearly as normal.

They're reusable and come with a case. They're very easy to put in. They fit great under a helmet. And they're inexpensive especially when compared to custom molded earplugs.

I wear them while riding and at music concerts. They work great.

Capt. Crash Idaho has some good tips and techniques with his free videos.

Here are some basic parking lot exercises. A tip for laying out parking lot cones--get a bunch of bright yellow tennis balls and cut them in half. You'll get two "cones" for the price of one tennis ball.

There's a lot of good articles on Bike Safer.

There are some good books and DVDs if he's willing to spend a few bucks, get the Total Control or Ride Like a Pro DVDs. RLAP is mostly focused on slow-speed tight turning techniques (like the police bike "rodeos" do). More Proficient Motorcycling book is great for street survival tips. If he's willing and able to spend more money, then he could take a course, such as Total Control, MSF Experienced Rider course, etc. Speaking of MSF, you can get their book here.

When I took the MSF Beginning Rider Course, several of the other students already had experience riding and owned their own bikes. They, like me, were there to refresh the basic skills and maybe learn something new because we were all self-taught. BRC isn't cheap, but I think it's worthwhile, and being on a bike in a structured environment like that might be just the confidence-builder that he needs.

Edit: I found a link to PDF files from the MSF, including their textbook for the BRC.

It comes down to your skill level. Rear braking and downshifting can set up your rear suspension, braking with power helps you control your exit.

Shifting works the same way.....

Way over simplified, but it's a good idea to get used to the feeling of controlled braking and/or adding power through corners. You never know when an off camber or decreasing radius turn ( or something slick that knocks you off your line) will toss something scary at you.

My racing days were a LONG time ago. A good first read -- http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

Also, anything that works on the track will help you on the road. Being able to maneuver and or stop ridiculously fast will help avoid most incidents in traffic.

I'm just learning how to do it on a big cruiser. The first time I grabbed a handful of front brake last week at a quick light, I almost blew through the intersection (after 25 years of riding.) Today I was giving those big brembos all they could take to find out where my loss of traction would start and to see how stable the bike is with some front wheel slide. Very stable, happy to say. But, I had to know.

Every side-by-side I found it appears to be more of a HDR type effect with the EK7000. Could be some rendering done before the upload though but if you youtube the camera, you will see most, if not all videos have those bright colors to it. Looking at the videos, I would definitely say it is nicer than the gopro comparison but again, I don't own either so I am not sure if there's some touch ups before the uploads.

With the price of the EK7000, if the reviews are good you can't go wrong for entry level.

Edit: It's 4.5 stars with 4,220 reviews. BUY IT!
Amazon Link

Don't ride with crap $10 earbuds.

Get something from Etymotic and you will love it. LOVE IT. You won't go back.

I can't find the model I have because I got my pair years ago (still working perfect) for about $80. But here is a link to what I'm taking about just as an example Please note the triple flange eartips that provide excellent outside noise insulation.

Without actually speaking to your main question (as it would be entirely speculation and I don't know enough about you to make a judgement one way or the other), I will say that two bags doesn't sound like it would be too much (obviously that depends on the size of them).

If I were you, I would make sure that those two bags are fully waterproof before you try and commute on the bike. You might even want to ditch one of the bags and replace it with a dry sack (something like this).

I have a nice Kriega dry sack (which has its own mounting system) but you could easily get by with a cheap $10 drysack off of Amazon and a bungee net.

15km is nothing and unless you are either: a) absurdly weak (doesn't sound like it though since you are carrying athletic gear) or b) have some sort of medical disability that prevents you from carrying a load on your back; you should have no problem carrying a backpack for 15km.

After my bungee net broke on a long-distance trip, I ended up wearing my 40lb drypack-backpack for 650 miles, I definitely felt that the next day haha.

Also, if you are carrying a laptop/tablet/sensitive electronics in your bags, I would highly recommend that you carry it in your backpack on your back as opposed to tying it on your bike (particularly because you have a very short commute). Even with a perfectly setup suspension, your electronics will still be subject to very sudden jolts when you hit bumps and the human body does a good job of soaking them up.

I read a bunch of different answers. I only use the brakes for slowing or stopping. When I've accomplished that, I let them go or let up. I try to be as efficient with my controls as possible, only using what I need, when I need it. That gives my brain more time to process the "big picture". I used to think of the bike as an extension of myself. Now, after experience and practice, it is :)

There is a lot that needs to be paid attention to when riding, so taxing your brain in a pseudo "ready mode" or other taxing thought processes isn't as good as fully paying attention to the present. Definitely practice any riding skills until they become natural. My goal is to have total awareness of my surroundings as much of the time as possible, but instantly focusing 100% on any potential emergencies while spending as little time in that state as possible, then going immediately back to total awareness. For example: I'm sitting at a stop light, swivel my helmet and see some one coming up fast. I then take action. Could be tap the brake, turn on my turn signal, or grab the bars and make my best effort to move to safety if needed depending on the situation. Then reset and scan.

With more practice, one can grab the clutch, twist the throttle, shift to 1st, and start releasing the clutch in well under 1 second or seemingly simultaneously. I've been riding for 21 years and it's 2nd nature, (I don't think about it) which allows for they key to being on the road in any vehicle = pay attention.

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This is an absolute must for ANY rider weather you're racing, riding , or driving:
http://amzn.com/0965045021
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-Keith-Code/dp/0965045072

Etymotic MC5s or Etymotic ER7s, honestly anything with triple-flange in-ear tips is great, you'll have crystal clear audio even past +100mph. I plug them into my Sena 20s and use the Sena mic for calls, although the Sena certainly isn't necessary.

You get the benfits of the Sena wind cancelling and controls, combined with the 100% noise sealing effect of the triple-flange tips. It's much better than the speaker + earplug combo imo, I've used it comfortably for many days while touring.

Take a look at these if you do

Last me usually 3-6 months (riding about 1k mi / month), so the price is pretty similar to disposable, but I find them much more comfortable / easy to put in / better for using with music in helmet

My bar ends spin very easily but loosening the screw was impossible.

I got these: https://www.amazon.com/Krator-Universal-Inceased-Davidsons-Kawasaki/dp/B002GTKAHQ#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1490672053210

Love the look and functionality of the new. Previously the mirrors were the highest point on the bike so the bar ends make it look more streetfighter. Also I would have to lean to look around my shoulder but that's not a problem with these.

I plan on finding the size of the bolt to fit in the old holes and adding accessories like a phone mount or cup holder.

I'm reading Maximum Control and Motorcycling Excellence. I've been riding for 10 years and for the $13 dollars spent on Motorcycling Excellence, I've gotten a great refresher. Plus, the chapter on wheel geometry has given me more confidence in the WNC twistys. Totally worth $13 IMHO. Not Started Maximum Control yet.

I too am going to be taking my safety course, next month. I got this book to help me before I take the course. They'll go over all of this stuff in the class, but I figured it can't hurt to study before! I've only read about half of the book, but I've already learned a ton. Definitely recommend you read it if you get the chance.

I've not read it yet myself but I see Twist of the Wrist recommended here pretty often. There is a movie as well but books usually trump all. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0965045013/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

There pricing is very good, especially on gear with the return policy you receive. Part pricing is still good, especially if you make the free shipping on the smaller moto-specific items like chain lube, etc. Beats Amazon's price by several $$.

Maxima Chain Wax

Amazon - $14

RevZilla - $11.50

Not to mention I have to pay tax on items sold by Amazon which really sours the deal.

Every product you bought you returned? Every product was $50-$100 less when you bought it somewhere else? Why did you keep buying from RevZilla and keep returning their items? Why didn't you do research before you bought it?

I use [these Radian Custom Molded earplugs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A28OW6/). I originally was going to go with SureFires since they're popular among range shooters and other motorcyclists (judging from some of the Amazon reviews). I went with these for a more custom fit; they're pretty comfortable despite the harder silicone and they're really low maintenance (a big plus for me).

For a disposable earplug, I'd use these Mack's earplugs. I used to work in a machine shop and I wore these most of the day. Pretty comfortable and they block an insane amount of noise. EDIT: I should clarify with some of the newer reviews on this, people are saying they're not quite the same as the old ones so proceed with caution if you plan to look into these.

i've got a throttle lock that helps a lot:

http://www.amazon.com/2Wheel-Ride-GC-1-Motorcycle-Throttle/dp/B0055QOKC8/

and a cramp buster can help as well:

http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B000GZPH2U

both are super cheap and really help on long rides.

Looking at photos of the bike, a tank bag would be pretty hard. I'd start by getting a backpack w/ plenty of storage. Get some "Rok Straps" and mount the backpack to the tail of the bike w/ a bungie net for extra safety. Avoid standard bungies with metal loops, they will scratch the paint off your mount points so straps are much better.

Saddlebags are a good idea but I think strapping the backpack down will be best.

https://dowcopowersports.com/iron-rider-rumble/

http://bikebeauty.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=182

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520897640&sr=8-3&keywords=rok+straps&dpID=514CB6kW07L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/PowerTye-50152-Black-featuring-Adjustable/dp/B0022ZXO40/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520897649&sr=1-2&keywords=bungee+net

They definitely are! I highly recommend you read Twist of The Wrist by Keith Code. There are some very good points on downshifting, and useful techniques that you can apply to street riding.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

I agree that even just standard ear plugs will make for a much more enjoyable ride. I always smile when people start to wear them and come back to me and say "I'm amazed at how less tired I feel now after riding!"

I'll also second the Etymotics. They can be found on Amazon for less than $70. I love mine, although after the second 8-hour day my (small) ear canals tend to feel a little tender.. :-(

I've had them for 5 years give or take. Rock solid. I don't know if they're actually from China but i would probably assume honestly. Here's the Amazon link The bike fell over once and i bought a second pair that were exactly the same.
When rebiulding the whole front end on a college budget, you find ways to save money.

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

The Sena 20S is a bit pricier but an awesome headset. Highly recommend.

I use these inside a full face and really like them. They come with Velcro and stick right in. Really easy to use and good sound quality. I always keep the volume pretty low, mostly use them for GPS.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RW10WBC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1462850653&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=uclear&dpPl=1&dpID=41gepGPeXpL&ref=plSrch

Congrats on the Babigale and living down your dream!

Reality check: plenty of power is an understatement. Like others have said, your age group and situation is one of the most accident prone. If you are gonna cruise to starbucks every third Sunday, then you probably don't need much more than a basic rider course.

I'll tell you from experience that an 899 is an incredible motorcycle. The engine is good, but it's the chassis that is unbelievable. You already own the bike, it would be a sin not find out what it can do when pressed, because it shreds. Do yourself a ginormous favor and start doing some track-day schools. DON'T try to go be Rossi Sr. on the street, you will either mame/kill yourself or never improve because the learning curve is too steep. Also Twist of the Wrist I and II are must haves. Sport Riding Techniques by Nick Ientasch is another great read.

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826120&sr=8-1&keywords=sport+riding+techniques

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826148&sr=8-2&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826174&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Lastly, the best way to get back at the people who call it a mid-life crisis is to become a proficient motorcyclist.

With the way the partial fairing is shaped on a Bandit, you may be getting some aerodynamic lift on the front end at those speeds. Add in a little turbulence from the car you're (very ill-advisedly) passing, and you get some chaotic input to your very light front suspension. This can result in a tank-slapper. It can also come from uneven pavement giving the front wheel a bump.

I could never explain the physics as well as David Hough does. Pick up a copy of Proficient Motorcycling and read up on the workings of motorcycle suspension. Another good source is the DVD "A Twist of the Wrist II." And please, please ride more conservatively, especially with so little experience under your belt. I feel like you may be assuming that we motorcyclists are a more daring bunch than we are.

It's bad. Slimes up the inside of the wheel, might plug your valve.

I would just get and carry a tire plug kit with the rubber cement like this. They are easy to use and some people have been known to do thousands of miles on them. I have used them on my car with great success.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0022ZXO40/ref=psdc_3147767011_t1_B003VLBPJA

​

Best solution, in my experience. This one has plastic hooks which is better to avoid scratches.

​

Wrap it around the bottom of your passenger seat when not in use (like hook it to the passenger grabs, and have the net wrapped tightly against the wheel well out of the way). Then flip it around when you want to use it.

This video was very helpful for me.
sorry could not find it without the subtitles.

amazon.

It is old but is one of the most relevant materials that I am aware of.
Special attention to the survival reaction part, it covers all the counter intuitive things that an unexperienced rider can do.

For safety matters it is a must watch

I'm looking to get the Scorpion Exo 300 due to it's good looks, modularity, and reasonable price, does anyone here own this helmet? I'm looking to add some helmet speakers such as this: https://www.amazon.com/UCLEAR-Digital-Definition-Speakers-Compatible/dp/B00RW10WBC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509732579&sr=8-3&keywords=helmet+speakers and was wondering if the helmet would be roomy enough to accommodate them? Another thing I wanted to add for a experimental project was a Modmic 5: https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-Modular-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B01MCYRKY3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509732672&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=modmic+5&psc=1 which I'm not sure whether it would fit or not due to the helmets smaller size. Is the helmet comfortable to wear all day? Is it lighter than other helmets in its class?

If you want to not only block out sound, but listen to music also - I would try getting these headphones :
Etymotic Research MC5.

They come with foam tips that expand inside your ear canal, and can function as ear plugs alone. However, you can also listen to music, and as you can see from the reviews these are very nice ear buds. I would definitely suggest this.

These ones: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-increased-Davidsons-Kawasaki-Cruisers/dp/B002GTKAHQ

Simple to install. You just screw it in and the 2 metal sleeves will expand and press against the inside of the hand grips. That's what should keep them in.

My friend gave me a pair as a gift and I bought another pair after I lost the right one he gave to me during one of my rides.

These: https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY

I’ve used really quiet foam ones, which work, but theyre so quiet you do miss stuff going on around you and it takes some of the fun out of riding.

These are very effective, definitely below the damage threshold, but they let though enough noise to hear cars etc and your own bike.

I just bought the Sena 20S-01 off amazon it's amazing. Good quality on build and too many features for me to use!

One of the learning challenges is that there are a ton of different bike models, so based on your description you might get something out of the Haynes Motorcycle Basics Textbook. It's not about riding, but is about the mechanical basics that apply to basically every motorcycle in the world. Thorough explanations of every major component, the theory and history behind how they were designed, the different forms they may take in different engines, and how they interact with other parts. It's really an awesome book if you want to understand how a motorcycle works to a component level.

The downsides are that the book is a bit pricey and that it is a dense read; it is a textbook after all, not necessarily meant to be 'fun'.

I got a custom molded earplug kit. Fits great under the helmet and probably the most comfortable earplugs I've ever used

Just go to Amazon right now and order this and this right now. Do it. Will save your life and make riding fun.

Not OP, but I got this net from amazon and have been very happy with it. (I had gotten a cheapie net for half the price before this one, but you can absolutely tell the difference.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZXO40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these. They work pretty well, and look pretty good for the price, but what you need to do is take some thin rubber tubing and rap it around the core before you put them on the bike. This gets rid of most of the handlebar vibration making them very usable. You get anti-vibration mirrors for ~20 bucks when you will spend well over 50 if you buy "good" one out the packaging.

After watching a video from fortnine, ended up buying the nonoise plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY

If i am not listening to music i wear these, they are pretty great.

Get one of these for your helmet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FHLNVK/

That plus earplugs might be enough. Possibly more effective than a new helmet, certainly cheaper, and if you like the helmet you already have...

Yes. Buy these. If you want audio, push an earbud in the putty while you're molding it and cut out a hole for the sound when they're solid. You could also use these with bone conducting headphones like I do. Bone conducting headphones actually sound much better and louder when you have earplugs in.

A sena 10s or 20s is only $250 or in that ballpark.

• This is a smile link that donates to charity: link
  
  
• Here is a standard amazon link: link
  
  Pics for proof: http://imgur.com/a/qgujd

You could just get some helmet speaker like this and using a cheap bluetooth remote like this. You could also take apart some good headphones (maybe some Koss Porta pro's) and with some double sided tape, install them in your helmet.

If you happen to live in FL I could give you a BT headset. I have a pair of Uclear Vybe's that I stopped using ever since I got a Cardo Packtalk.

Proper fit would be the most important thing to focus on. Get a Snell/ECE Full face (or modular) to minimize noise and maximize protection.

I would be worried about long term hearing damage from the extended exposure to wind noise. I never ride without earplugs, either some custom fit plugs I got at a gun show, or from a [box of disposeables](https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Honeywell-Disposable-MAX-1/dp/B0013A0C0Y/ "A box will last you for years"). You may also want to look into a Windjammer to further reduce wind noise.

To help with visual acuity, consider getting multiple visors and a helmet where changing visors is easy. It's simple enough to try visor removal and replacement in-store to weed out the bad ones. Think dark smoke when it's sunny, yellow for glare, and pinlock-equipped for when it's foggy. You don't really want to mess with goggles for the highway.

I'd stay away from brimmed dual-sport style helmets, the brim can act as a sail and cause discomfort at high speeds.

Consider adding a Bluetooth intercom system if you want to listen to podcasts, navigation prompts, or other entertainment during your long trips. Higher end helmets can be fit with nice, integrated systems.

For color choice, statistically, wearing a white or hi-vis colored helmet will tend to reduce SMIDSYs.

Get earplugs or earbuds to protect your ears (and possibly for music). Plugphones?

Cruise Control

If you need stands (i.e. if your bike doesn't have a centerstand) and chain cleaning stuff, you can get that on Amazon.

You can get supplemental tools for your toolkit and just general emergency stuff (first aid, etc) from Amazon.

If you don't have a battery tender, get one of those.

If you're going to spend a bundle on amazon.com, consider using smile.amazon.com. Part of the $ from your purchase will go to the charity of your choice. Costs you nothing.

> ... learn in general what's where in a bike, how it works etc.

This book is a good starting point for general knowledge about the various parts/systems on a motorcycle:

Haynes Manuals: Motorcycle Basics Techbook

If you have a motorcycle already, then the factory service manual or Haynes/Clymer manual for your specific bike will be helpful.

This book might give you some insight into the custom build process:

The Build: How the Masters Design Custom Motorcycles

the chin position looks like it gets in the way of rider's field of view. also people say this camera is pretty similar to the gopro and fits the gopro mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGM33HG

I picked one of these up last year and it helps a bit, especially in winter. I took it off to install lightmode, but I have better earplugs now

https://www.amazon.com/WINDJAMMER-REDUCES-Helmets-original-copied/dp/B003FHLNVK

Cheap way to upgrade that situation:

Take a pair of over-ear headphones, pull out the speakers then throw the speakers into your helmet under the pad for ear relief. Just make sure to get a pair that has a disconnect near the headphones so that you can tuck the cord away when not listening to jams.

Amazon sells speakers already set up like this, I'm going to swap out the ones in my helmet with them as the cord got pulled and messed up the speaker. But they seem kinda quiet (only tested outside of helmet) and probably not as good as the speakers I originally pulled out of a $30 pair of random headphones.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00RW10WBC

The boyfriend and I have been looking into getting some nice earplugs (for dual bike & concert use) and I'm just looking to get some input on which brands everyone likes.

https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY

and

https://eargasmearplugs.com/products/eargasm-high-fidelity-earplugs-25-off-1

Were two that we were looking at but... I'm opening to suggestions. And experiences with either.

I use these... amazing!

Not as annoying as the cheapy foam ones... customizable sound levels with the little plugs.... and not as expensive as full custom

Alright dude, get the blue ones. These things are cheap and work wonders, very comfortable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003A28OW6/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're losing air, I've had good success using one of these on the 250. To each his own, though. A lot of people aren't comfortable riding on plugged tires. I'm cheap, and I still make sure to check the pressure before I go out as well.

Oh, Snake wasn't referring to a brand. Slime is fine for brand. Snake is the type of kit, with the "strings" or whatever they are called, I have always heard them called snakes haha. this type of patch As sold here Also for a pump I have this one Its nice with the flexible hose so you can push it against the ground with your weight. Also the gauge is nice so you know when your done, I have tested this up to 100psi had no problems. It rides in my bag while I dirt bike, so it holds up well to abuse.

Edit, I just decided to check, and go figure your bike might have tubes... I don't know for sure, one site said this:
Custom has no tubes.
900 Classic, 900 LT, and 1500 Classic have tubes.
1500 Nomad, Mean Streak, and all 1600 and V2K are tubeless.
If you has tubes then the snake kit wont work. Also a tube repair roadside on that bike might be a bit extreme... You have to pull the wheel off, pull the tire off the wheel, patch the tube with a tube repair kit, then reinstall it all. I do this on dirt bike tires all the time, but with a road bike, I wouldn't bother trying. Just hope you don't catch a flat on the go.

Keith Code's training movie based on this book is available as a 7 part series.

Highly recommended whether you're the kind who takes your bike to the track or to the canyons. I would recommend that you purchase the DVD, it is a worth while investment.

I've heard some good things about Windjammers or similar helmet skirts. I have yet to try one though. Personally, I get a lot of wind noise from right behind my jaw, so I get the sense that something like this would cut a lot of it out.

It is an '82 XS400 special. It ran from 77 to 82. I have drag bars, but left all the cables the original length. The horn bracket got flipped upside down so I could access it/install a new one. I made a bracket that attaches to the bar running down in front of the engine to hold to LED fog lights, run by an auxiliary switch. Painted and wrapped the headers and have emgo shorty mufflers. Emgo pod filters, and a puck-style filter for the breather tube nipple. Led tails, led indicator lights, Upgraded headlight. Point of note on the headlight, mine was a sealed beam halogen. So to add a new bulb you have to buy an aftermarket reflector housing from candlepower.

EDIT: Also forgot Oury grips, cafe mirrors, new fuel lines, fuel filter and vacuum tube.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CA6E56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T0ITF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HAQGO20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00230QCIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VFL0SO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDYB3P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UVME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZUJGG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKKSTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEGQQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGKKMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SK7N8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCIO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got these yesterday due to the other thread. https://www.amazon.com/SureFire-Defenders-filtered-Earplugs-reusable/dp/B001V2SS9G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524505061&sr=8-3&keywords=surefire+ear+plugs

Love them so far and cheap.

I use the NoNoise Motor series. They have a ceramic filter instead of just being foam throughout. I love them.

Nonoise Motor - New Generation Ear Plugs - Ceramic Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dshLyb9448AW7

Price isn't so important, last year I purchased this from my local bike shop for $14 after looking up reviews on it. Just make sure its a wax, so that it stays on the chain and reduces friction, not a liquid that flings off. I clean and lube my chain a ton and I still have more than half a can left after 2 summers of riding.

Gotcha. You can get something like these then:
UCLEAR Digital Pulse Wired Drop-In High Definition Helmet Speakers. And if you wanna go wireless, you can pair the speakers with a bluetooth streamer like this one

My self and a friend bought this below:
https://www.amazon.com/WINDJAMMER-REDUCES-Helmets-original-copied/dp/B003FHLNVK

Really helps in blocking wind noise, but keeps the main noises still there. I use the rev noises to clutch shift a lot as my bikes clutch cable isnt the best at the moment, so definitely really helps with this.

A Twist of the Wrist and A Twist of the Wrist 2 oh and Total Control. These books are amazing.

I'd say battery. Few days ago my ninja was doing the same, ordered a battery tender and now it work perfectly. This is the tender I got, comes with connectors you can screw onto your battery so you can quick connect and charge overnight

Wax is often a lot less messy. Maxima makes a really good one that takes about 2 seconds to apply and sets rather quickly. It smells nice too IMO.

CC is an excellent invention. I use this on all my bikes without ECC.

I used the highest NRR pack from earplug superstore. I found several pairs that worked really well and several that didn't. Worth it to try.

The foams I use are more comfortable than custom. Because custom are harder material, any external pressure on them can be painful and/or break the seal.

If you're seriously considering custom, I would pick up some Radians custom moldable plugs. Unless you have unusually big ears, you can use half the material provided so you can have a do-over or a second set.

The product pictures depict filling the entire ear flap but this is totally unnecessary for noise attenuation. It's only the material inside the ear canal that does that. The rest just gives you a bit more to tug on for removal.

I recommend that you mold them with your helmet on. I made them with my helmet off and found the helmet put pressure on my ear breaking the seal and making them very uncomfortable to wear. I ended up trimming them down until they fit without interference but again, I prefer the simplicity and better performance of foam.

This is the most comfortable I found and kept the most noise out, I ended up losing the pair ( 30 $ on Amazon ) and purchased a cheaper replica made out of plastic rather than foam and it hurts slightly if not inserted properly so I would def. recommend my original purchase. Nonoise Motor - New Generation Ear Plugs - Ceramic Filter
https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1518141983&sr=8-4&keywords=no+noise+ear+plugs

I bought these. I used some rubber at the end to stabilize/fit better. Cheap but works well http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

edit: buddies duke with something close to the style: http://imgur.com/sCOAivT

I picked up a pair of these GoPro knockoffs and they're actually pretty damned good cameras. They don't have image stabilization, which makes them iffy for bike use though.

Try something like these.

They allow air flow into your ear so you don't feel plugged up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGM33HG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


My recommendation, had for 6 months works pretty damn good, have as a chin mount

Definitely something I've considered. But I really like the smell of the oil in a spraycan that I use....

I think upgrading my headlights to HID projectors is going to be my next project when I can scrape together the money.

I have this issue on my '17 SV650, it goes away after a good cleaning.

Pick up a grunge brush and some chain wax or equivalent.

I do this after every bike wash.

Also check the chain while you have your weight on the bike.

I have something similar. About the only time I use it is on the interstate between cities -- which is what is was designed for, I suppose. I use this throttle assist thingie most of the time. Sits under the heel of my hand and keeps me from having to grip the throttle as tightly as I would without it.

I like the Nonoise earplugs, they don't completely block out all sounds.

https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=lp_13391839011_1_1_a_it?srs=13391839011&ie=UTF8&qid=1501787692&sr=8-1

Keith Code - Twist of The Wrist I/II (Vol 1 / Vol 2)

Also, once you're get to the apex, start rolling the throttle on smoothly. This will help balance your lean angle and the feeling of 'falling inwards'.

good reveiews

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW

I have and have used this on my truck

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MVDGZMH8C9SY4QH3X0GV

> UClear

Like this product? https://www.amazon.com/UCLEAR-Digital-Definition-Speakers-Compatible/dp/B00RW10WBC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497482288&sr=8-2&keywords=UClear

Would something like this work or is there something specific I should look for?

I've been very happy with these. I've ridden with foam plugs and i think they block my sena's speakers a little too much. Plus with the ceramic plugs you can still clearly hear your exhaust when you get on it.

Hook it onto your keychain and you will never forget about your earplugs again

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A28OW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easier method, just find a pair of headphones with decent enough sound quality and make a custom mold around it. I'm trying this out in a few days.

To start, the sound quality of your headphones was probably bad because you were using the wrong kind. This kind has a little gel cup that seals against outside noise pretty well. This kind has a rigid plastic shell that doesn't seal against anything, so air and outside noise easily make their way in.

Any speakers you put on probably won't have much clarity when you're riding, especially not at highway speeds. It won't be any better than your current headphones. Also, on a 250, you'll have a hard time finding space to mount speakers. Not impossible, but very difficult.

The best option here (IMO) would be to get a bluetooth headset for your helmet. I have a sena 20s; I can plug in my own headphones, and if I had a pillion I could use a splitter if they wanted to listen in, too.

You're fine. One of these plugs will be fine until the tire wears out.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

I wouldn't sweat it.

[This little fella] (http://www.amazon.com/2Wheel-Ride-GC-1-Motorcycle-Throttle/dp/B0055QOKC8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416929958&sr=8-2&keywords=go+cruise+throttle+control)

it makes it so when i'm going down a highway i can stick my arms out and pretend i'm an airplane. :)

I have these which are DIY custom molded: http://www.amazon.com/Radians-Custom-Molded-Earplugs-Blue/dp/B003A28OW6

They work and fit but the one issue I have with them is that they are so dense that the vibrations I pick up, cause them to vibrate inside my ear just enough to drive me insane. I've tried moistening them to reduce this effect but it hasn't worked. I wonder if the true custom plugs do this or if it's just because I have a small amount of buffeting.

Anyhow, since they were cheap I don't care and I just keep buying the cheapo foam plugs that work well.

I use Etymotic Research MC5 Noise Isolating In-Ear Earphones (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S3RFIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and the sena headphone kit. Works great, I can still hear what I need to around me but these keep the ambient noise very quiet.

I also recommend Lee Parks https://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760343446/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A7E8P6M1AASS98SBBC5B

This stuff really shouldn't be on Youtube though, as this is a commercial and pirated video.

Watch it by all means and then thank Keith Code properly:

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-Keith-Code/dp/0965045072/

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021

repair it for like 7$

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M6TBSPCEHIWV&keywords=slime+tire+plug+kit&qid=1550703204&s=gateway&sprefix=slime+tire+plug+%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-6

you are putting way too much or change chain lube. I am using chain wax (see here )

Also, I put the chain wax after a ride when the chain is hot. The lube penetrates deeper on the o-rings and on the plus side, you are always ready to ride next time.

i have a cheaper version that works just fine

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Inceased-Davidsons-Kawasaki-motorcycle/dp/B002GTKAHQ

these things are allll over ebay and amazon for 5-15$

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Inceased-Davidsons-Kawasaki-Cruisers/dp/B002GTKAHQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

If you remove the bar end inserts you can clamp them on the bars like OP.

Seems like I have very minor tinnitus. I can hear ringing slightly when its very quiet. I put down about 150k in the last few years. My R1 had a shorty and I wasnt wearing plugs. Now I have an Arai Vector 2 (great damping) and I always wear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=sr_ph_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484730579&sr=sr-1&keywords=nonoise+earplugs these plugs that are magical.

I'm sorry for not posting a price, I updated the post. I'm in college so it might be a little hard for me to swing for a Go-Pro. I'd like to stay under $100. https://www.amazon.com/AKASO-EK7000-Sports-Waterproof-Camcorder/dp/B01HGM33HG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494698605&sr=8-4&keywords=helmet%2Bcamera&th=1 maybe this one?

I'm using some $12 amazon specials and they work OK, but I'm probably upgrading to CRG Lane Splitters.

I’ve been using these and am a fan: Nonoise Motor - New Generation Ear Plugs - Ceramic Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_chC4Bb3W9CPVR

Non obvious? I make sure to take my adderall, and typically tell my wife when I'm heading out and when I expect to be back. I put in a dozen parking lot hours at the start of every season, and practice emergency stops whenever I can.

>Would it be a good idea to spend a lot of time on reddit and other motorcycle message boards reading anecdotes from other riders about the dangers they've faced?

It seems to me like 99% of posters here have either never ridden a motorcycle or have been riding less than a year. To save yourself the trouble of separating the wheat from the chaff, check out the books Proficient Motorcycling and Twist of the Wrist.

How do a professionally-made set of custom plugs compare to the DIY custom alternative such as these? I've used a pair of them for the past few years and they've been comfortable but don't know how the quality compares.

The second edition of Total Control has a chapter on fitness from a personal trainer who rides. Of course, there's also chapters on riding and bike setup.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0760343446/

Well, if he spends all his time working on it, maybe this would be suitable (it's applicable to more than just sport bikes):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/0965045072/

I have these for music

I have these for track days

In reality the etymotic motorcycle plugs are good, but the ones that cost $1 from the hardware store are just as good. The headphones are the best I've found for riding though. I abuse them too...I use them snowboarding, snowmobiling, and on airplanes.

Edit* They are not the most comfortable for all, but work for me. Etymotic used to make the ER6i which were incredible because they were much smaller, but they stopped making them and my old pair finally fell apart from hard use.

Hey all! I have a few questions about helmet speakers for music. I have horrible tinnitus and bought that huge bulk thing of foam earpro to wear which helps immensely. But at the same time, I can't wear ear buds. I've tried some of those earpro ear buds but they neither provide enough sound deadening or is loud enough. I've seen some other threads talk about how they can wear earpro and still hear music through their comm systems. I don't need anything fancy, but I need something loud enough to hear through the foam. I don't mind plugging my phone into it, or if it has any sort of comm function. Ive looked at a couple, but I'm just trying to find some other peoples experiences.

Some that I am looking at:

Sena SMH-10

Tork X-Pro Motorcycle helmet speakers

UClear Digital Pulse

get a chin curtain insert for the bottom of the helmet. It helps to cut wind noise. It's cheaper than anything else and you can try it without changing your earbuds (for now)

https://www.amazon.com/Hjc-Helmets-Csr1-Chin-Curtain/dp/B001DELLJQ

or

https://www.amazon.com/WINDJAMMER-REDUCES-Helmets-original-copied/dp/B003FHLNVK/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=926FX9JGRWAF8PMW32SV

• There are wired speakers designed for helmet speaker pockets.
  
  
• An aftermarket windshield might help, but there's also the option of a Laminar Lip.

I use the disposable ones for short day trips, but for extended multi-day trips, I use molded ones. They don't irritate my ears as much.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A28OW6

Camera is the EK7000 i bought for vacation on Amazon last year.

Mount is one of these GoPro chin mounts

The opening around your neck is usually the most significant source of wind noise in a helmet. If your helmet has a removable chin curtain and you remove it, put it back in. If you don't have a neck curtain, before getting a new helmet you can try a Windjammer.

Modular helmets are often quieter specifically because the neck curtain on most of them can come in closer than helmets you have to pull over your head.

I also might try different ear plugs. The simple foam ones actually have the highest level of projection of anything out there when properly inserted. Custom molded ones aren't necessarily superior.

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=pd_cp_mov_1

this dvd was what was posted.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-Keith-Code/dp/0965045072/

Read the book.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Safety-Foundations-Motorcycling-Excellence/dp/1884313477#reader_1884313477

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1HYUEUS62JSQE&coliid=I1C18QFUH05P1V

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

I keep a Slime pump and a plug kit under my seat. It has come in handy more than once and it was a major life savor being far from home.

Maxima 74920 Chain Wax - 13.5 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TZ1RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RPERDbGJEH1W8

http://www.amazon.com/PowerTye-50152-Black-X15-Cargo/dp/B0022ZXO40

https://www.amazon.com/PowerTye-50152-Black-featuring-Adjustable/dp/B0022ZXO40

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Inceased-Davidsons-Kawasaki-motorcycle/dp/B002GTKAHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427322825&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+end+mirror

Just unscrew the bar end insert from it, and then you can mount it to the bar instead. It's cheap, but I haven't had any issues so far.

If that doesn't work would you could always try bar end mirrors.

These look decent

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GTKAHQ

Kawell Rear View Side Mirror... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GTKAHQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002GTKAHQ/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526155012&sr=1&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6840225482829252734&pd_rd_wg=hw42a&pf_rd_r=MZ9VA0P9QEP6FJEAS9MW&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B002GTKAHQ&pd_rd_w=12evy&pf_rd_i=bar+end+mirrors+for+motorcycles&pd_rd_r=deef310b-5a83-40cc-bf29-c3bc6252c5d7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

I purchased these for $10. You think it would make a difference to buy a $150 set?

Get some of these custom-molded earplugs. (and read my other comment in this thread.)

These exact ones:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A28OW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HE0Rzb7YJH3N2

Check out the wind jammer; it's essentially what you've described and is available at a reasonable price.

https://www.amazon.com/WINDJAMMER-REDUCES-Helmets-original-copied/dp/B003FHLNVK

I believe he may have been talking about this.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/WINDJAMMER-REDUCES-Helmets-original-Worldwide/dp/B003FHLNVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451152389&sr=8-1&keywords=wind+jammer

You can also get these.

Anyone use one of these? http://www.amazon.com/WINDJAMMER-REDUCES-Helmets-original-copied/dp/B003FHLNVK

https://www.amazon.com/2Wheel-Ride-GC-1-Motorcycle-Throttle/dp/B0055QOKC8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503421720&sr=8-4&keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control

Even vs. these? Wondering because they claim to be purpose-built.

I use the orange nonoise earplugs.

Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/Nonoise-Motor-Generation-Ceramic-Filter/dp/B00EDHWELY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nonoise&qid=1563992690&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Same.

I'm looking at purchasing Plugphones and Nonoise as research.

Earbuds under my helmet. Sometimes wired, sometimes bluetooth. Although I'm going to be installing Uclear speakers in the new helmet I'm picking up in a couple weeks.

*edit- These combined with a bluetooth receiver https://www.amazon.com/UCLEAR-Digital-Definition-Speakers-Compatible/dp/B00RW10WBC

I use one of these (just buy one instead of the multi pack) and a set of these and the sound is very loud and not too tinny.