Best products from r/mpminidelta
We found 32 comments on r/mpminidelta discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 29 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white
- Synthetic Oil With Suspended Syncolon (Ptfe) Particles
- It Is Waterproof
- Usda/Nsf Rated H-1
- Reduces Friction And Wear
- Super Lube Oil
- Comes in 4-ounces
- Quality craftsmanship and materials make this product a must have for any fisherman
Features:
2. Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)
- Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 4500/3700 RPM, max. 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTF
- Award-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performance
- Ideal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 4cm fans in 3D printers, DVRs, NAS, switches, routers, other network and storage devices, etc.
- 3-pin 12V FLX version can be run 4500 or 3700 rpm using the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors to fine-tune the fan for maximum airflow or near-silent operation
- Includes anti-vibration mounts, fan screws, Low-Noise Adaptor, extension cable and OmniJoin adaptor set for connecting the fan to proprietary fan headers
Features:
3. Mini Delta 3D Printers 120mm Round x 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Build Plate Surface for Monoprice Mini Delta
120mm round X 3mm thick glass build plate surface for 3D printersSmooth flat surface, improves the quality of your 3D printing, for consistent resultsUltra-low thermal expansion; heat resistant, high temperature shock resistanceFits perfectly, slightly over sized to allow for quick alignmentDog Rive...
4. Kingston 2 GB microSD Flash Memory Card SDC/2GB
- Ultra-Portable - extremely small footprint design
- Guaranteed lifetime warranty
- Ships with adapter to convert to full-sized SD card
- 2GB microSD Memory Card
- Complies with SD card specification standards
Features:
5. NEW! 3 Prong Grounded Single Port Power Adapter for outlet with Orange indicator On/Off Switch to be energy saving (1 Pack)
- CONVENIENT: Perfect for devices and peripherals without built-in on/off switch. Also great for switching hard-to-reach lights or appliances that do not have a switch.
- MONEY SAVING: Conserves electricity since does not draw any power when switched off.
- LIGHT INDICATOR: Switch lights orange when on as a helpful tool when across the room or in dark places.
- Rating: 125V, 15A, 60Hz, 1875W, UL Listed
Features:
6. 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black)
3M 5952 Heavy Duty Mounting VHB Tape is black, double-coated VHB adhesive tape with an acrylic foam core. A modified acrylic adhesive is on both sides of very conformable foam which provides adhesion to the broadest range of substrates/surfaces, including most powder coated paints. It comes on a red...
7. Monoprice 133687 Delta Mini Buildsheet | Replacement/Spare Parts for Selective 3D Printers
- Safety: Always exercise extreme caution when working on any electrical device, including your 3D printer. Ensure that the power plug is removed and the printer has fully cooled down prior to working on the printer.
- Quality at a Fair Price: Monoprice's rugged design and rigid quality control standards deliver high quality products at fair prices.
- Service & Support : You're never on your own with Monoprice products! We have a full team of friendly and knowledgeable technicians available to answer your questions, both before and after your purchase
Features:
8. WINGONEER 3D Printer MK8 Remote Extruder Accessories 1.75 Filament All Metal Remote Extruder For MK8 Prusa i3 or Kossel RepRap DIY Kits Aluminum Frame Block Accessory (Right hand)
- 1. MK8 remote printer head Right hand (NOT included steppter motor )
- 2.This is improved version, there are 2pcs Pneumatic fittings so that it feeds more smoothly
- 3.3D Printer MK8 Bowden Extruder kit
- 4.Used for 1.75mm/3mm filament Reprap, Makerbot, Prusa i3 3D printer
- 5.Type: Right hand
Features:
9. Aleenes All Purpose Tacky Adhesive Spray, 11-Ounce
- Perfect for adhering flat surfaces to flat surfaces, including: paper, cardboard and light wood,
- Before drying crystal clear, this tacky spray stays wet for about 60 seconds to allow your project to be moved
- Available in an 11-oz, spray can,
- Find inspiration and techniques at I love to create com
- NOTE:There are two sets of numbers on the bottom of the can ,these are internal codes and not the expiration date.
Features:
10. Kingston 4 GB microSDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card with Adapter (SDC10/4GB)
- High-Speed Class Rating - Class 10: 10MB/sec. minimum data transfer rate
- Compliant with the SD Card Association card 3.00 specification
- Operating temperatures: -13°F to 185°F (-25°C to 85°C)
- Storage temperatures: -40°F to 185°F (-40°C to 85°C)
- File Format - FAT 32
- Reliable - lifetime warranty
Features:
11. Sandisk microSD 2GB memory card
This product has been extensively tested, is certified to be 100% functional, and ready for use2GB of expandable storageIdeal companion for multimedia phones because they plug right inside the phone providing immediate expansion of memoryPerfect for storing more music, video, photos, games, and mobi...
12. ARCTIC Thermal Pad 145 x 145 x 0.5 mm - Thermal Compound for Coolers, Efficient Thermal Conductivity, Gap Filler, Non-Stick, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply - Blue
- EFFICIENT THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY: Silicone and special filler-based thermal pad far outperforms generic and performance oriented pads
- BRIDGING GAPS: Due to its low hardness and great compressibility properties, it works as a perfect gap filler, bridging uneven surfaces and gaps without any problems
- EASY TO INSTALL: The installation of the ARCTIC Thermal Pads is child's play and thus perfect even for beginners. They are non-adhesive and can therefore be placed precisely
- SAFE HANDLING: The pad does not contain metal particles, is electrically insulating and non-capacitive. It is therefore safe to handle, as contact with electrical parts would not cause any kind of damage
- TECHNICAL DATA: Quantity: Pack of 1, Size: 145 x 145 x 0.5 mm, Hardness: 25 Shore 00, Operating temperature: -40~200 ℃, Relative density: 3.2 g/cm³
Features:
13. Officemate Micro Size Binder Clips, Black, 100 per Tub (31030)
A great alternative to small or mini binder clips or jumbo paper clipsHandles can fold up for handing or can be removed for bindingStrong heat treated steel grips papers securelyMicro binder clips have a width on 1/2-Inch and a capacity of 5/32-InchComes in 100 in a reusable storage tub
14. BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs)
- eSUN 3D Printing Filament, Plastic, PLA, 1.75mm diameter, 1.0 kg (2.21lb).
- Manufactured to precise standards, 1.75mm +/_0.05mm.
- For Ultimaker, Ultimaker 2, Deezmaker Bukobot, MendelMax and other printers that accept 1.75mm filament.
- Wide-core spool reduces extrusion difficulty caused by tightly coiled filament.
- Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 190¡ãC - 220¡ãC, for printers without a heated print bed.
Features:
15. BINZET AC to DC 12V 10A 120W Power Supply Adapter Converter Regulator, 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC Plug, 12Volt 10Amp Wall Power Plug for DC12V 5050 5630 Flexible LED Strip Lights
Input: 100-240V AC 50/60Hz;Output: DC 12V/10APower: 120 WattsEasy connection and simplicity to useFor flexible led strip power supply
16. Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (60mm, Brown)
Premium quiet fan, 60x60x25 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 3000/2400/1600 RPM, max. 19.3 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning 60x25mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performanceIdeal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 6cm fans i...
17. Mcbazel On Off Power Switch Button Adapter for PlayStation 3 PS3 Slim Color Black
- Raw 1 1/4 Cone Filler
- Fill Your Own Cones
- Bamboo Packing Tool
- Easy to Use
- Instructions Included
Features:
18. Wisamic Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed 120mmx3mm Round for Monoprice Mini Delta 3D Printer, etc
Precisely cut and tempered with high transparence. Resistance to scratch and thermal shock.Conducts heat evenly across the build surface to ensure consistent temperature throughout the build surface.High binding power when heating. Easy to separate the plastic parts when cooling.Get you out of the t...
19. 12V 10A Camera Power Supply with 8 Way Splitter Cable, AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10Amp Power Adapter, 1 Female to 8 Male Connectors for CCTV Security System / LED Strip Lights
- Regulated switching power supply with 1 to 8 power adapter cable
- AC Input: 100V to 240V DC Output: 12 Volt at 10 Amp
- Protections: Short circuit, Overload, Over voltage, Over temperature
- For the Led Strip/Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, HUB, Switches, Security Cameras, Audio/Video Power Supply
- Note: This power supply power is 120W, can ONLY use on the device which power is lower than 120W. If you received the products and plug in no voltage on it, please plug off and plug into again, please make sure you have pluged it tightly. And if it still can not work, just contact us, we will provide the best service to you. Please don't worry about it, any problem we will try our best to help you.
Features:
20. Asicminer DC Power 12V 5.5mm x 2.5mm Barrel Male Plug Connector Pigtail 16AWG (1 Pack)
- DC barrel plug and receptacle dimensions: 5.5 mm x 2.5mm
- Center: Positive
- Length: 50 cm, Material: 16 AWG
- Quantity: 1 cable per pack
- Color-coded wires; red(+); black (-), with tinned leads
Features:
Sure, no prob, hopefully I can paste this properly:
Yeah, though the Facebook post someone made that has a lot of other things you can do as well. Let me see if I can paste it here.
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My printer tune up and alignment process and needed upgrades.
This is a work in process, but since I have created the first alignment post, it will be a place holder to point to my alignment posts as I create them, or pointers to good posts by others or the Wiki. This post is just an index and will get edited often. Some pointers will just be placeholder to comments I have made until I write up a good top level post. For others, I may place short instructions inline until I can make a better post.
Feel free to add comments about the index or the ordering.
I know there is a lot of stuff here, but I had to do something in all these areas to get my printer up to snuff. I am still doing a few tweaks. It is running pretty awesome right now after doing something in each of these areas.
At this point, each item has some pointer or short instructions associated with it.
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✅A) Essential new printer hardware/Settings improvements (any order):
1️⃣Update the step/mm for the 3 axis. The steps/mm for the 3 axis are currently set wrong in the factory defaults. Once fix this, your optimal Z layer heights will be in multiples of 0.0175mm with 0.28, 0.21, 0.14, 0.07mm being the best.
Do this:
M92 X57.14 Y57.14 Z57.14
M500
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/extruder_calibration…
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2049358935079582/
2️⃣Replace 3 bottom feet with taller, noise dampening ones. Can be done out of order, if you need to order them online. The point is to get better airflow to the electronics so they do not overheat.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2029969193685223/
️3️⃣Replace the print surface with a more durable PEI surface (some prefer other surface treatments). Best to do this now before the final alignments, since the factory bed gets destroyed pretty quickly. I recommend a 0.5mm PEI sheet because it is tough and hard to destroy, but the surface is soft enough not to beat up the nozzle tip if you crash into it (like every time it self levels). It also sticks well at moderate temps, but releases well when cold with many filament types. If you proceed with alignments first, then recheck them after you replace the bed surface.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2003734886308654/
️4️⃣Attach printer power supply to a power switch of some sort. Do not plug and unplug the 12VDC power directly at the printer with the power on except in an emergency. Otherwise the connector will degrade over time and may become intermittent.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2056149511067191/
️5️⃣Get a second (or third) microSD card. The one included has not been reliable for many users (though mine has been fine). You will need a good card for printing from card or upgrading the FW. Many higher capacity cards do not work in this printer. The card that has worked perfectly for me is the one recommended on the Wiki.
https://www.mpminidelta.com/parts/microsd_card
️6️⃣Tune up the PID values for the hot end. This would have to be redone if replacing parts on the hot end.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2042879919060817/
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✅B) Printer settings for your slicer (do before printing anything other than the cat)
1️⃣Set up printer hardware settings in slicer.
2️⃣Make a startup gcode sequence for the slicer.
Use G29 P2 for small parts and G29 P4 for large ones.
https://www.mpminidelta.com/starting_ending_g-code_scripts
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✅C) Essential first time tune up process (Done in order):
1️⃣Set the belt tensions.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2057956777553131/
2️⃣Print out bed hold down supports. The rest of the bed alignments will not be stable without these support clips. These parts don't actually touch the hot bed, so they can be made from any stable filament material. They could even be fabricated.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2030427000306109/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2054733421208800/
https://www.mpminidelta.com/…/bed_clips_-_remove_and_replace
3️⃣Shim bottom of bed directly where the bed switches are located with HVAC aluminum tape (0, 1, 2, or 3 layers thick as needed) to just touch the supports as needed. You should not be able to slip a piece of paper between the hold down clip and bed, but when you rotate the clip away from the bed and back again, it should not push down on the bed in the slightest. This is a finicky operation, but critical to do before you proceed to the rest of the alignments. This will create a consistent distance from the top of the bed to where the switch activates, and keep the bed from rocking up when probing at the point opposite each tower.
4️⃣Find the correct delta radius using G29 P2 and update it with M665 Rxx.x.
I had to change the Delta radius by quite a bit to this to get a more linear flatness. Start with this number:
M665 R63.20
That number will not be consistent across different machines, follow this process to zero it in:
Use a USB interface to a manual controller (so you can see the printouts of the G29 command). Do the following:
G28
G29 P2 V4
Take the average of the first 6 numbers (double tap on each tower). Compare that average to the center double tap number. If it is a match, then you are done. If not, adjust the delta radius by 0.1 or 0.01 depending on how close the numbers match with:
M665 R63.xx
Then try again from the G28.
When you have found the closest match to save the value:
M500
Check out this comment thread below for more discussion and details about this and the next step and a spreadsheet to download to help speed up the calculations:
https://www.facebook.com/…/mpm…/permalink/2058169440865198/…
5️⃣Equalize the home switches using G29 P1 and update it with M666.
Use a USB interface to a manual controller (so you can see the printouts of the G29 command). Do the following:
G28
G29 V4
Compare that average double tap number to the others. If they are not even close, you may have to adjust the physical stops to get them into the ballpark.
If it is a close match, then you are done. If not, adjust the home stop offsets:
M666 X Y or Z offset. The smallest axis of these will always be set to 0 offset and the other are adjusted to match.
Then try again from the G28.
When you have found the closest match to save the value:
M500
Once you are done here go back and check the Delta radius alignment to make sure it did not shift its value. Recalibrate if needed and do this one again also.
Spreadsheet xlsx to help with the calculations:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2064274083588067/
6️⃣Print out 3 lower side shields to keep trash out of belts.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2622002
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✅D) First time and periodic tune up (any order).
1️⃣Adjust the extruder steps/mm. You may need to adjust this number for each new roll of filament. If you change filaments back and forth, label each roll with the steps/mm number so it can be reset each time you use it.
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/extruder_calibration…
2️⃣Oil all rails and universal ball joints. I use Super Lube Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil with PTFE. I have the pen oiler version that I refill with the 4 oz size.
I put a drop on each rail above each linear bearing when the hot end is near the build plate. I also put a drop on each of the 12 ball joints on the ends of the 6 arms.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK
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✅E) Optional things that require opening up the printer:
1️⃣Add cardboard to block fan cooling the heat bed.
https://www.facebook.com/…/mpm…/permalink/2057274527621356/…
Or possibly print this which can be installed from the top:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783589
2️⃣Slow down lower cooling fan speed to reduce noise.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/1992618474086962/
3️⃣Move the connectors to make the Y axis face the front. If you do this, you need to redo the calibrations, because the firmware settings and hardware configuration no longer match. Do it first if you want it (highly recommended). However, if a future MP firmware upgrade fixes this, it will have to be undone in the hardware.
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/face_forward
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✅F) Make sure to refer to the Wiki for additional advice:
https://www.mpminidelta.com/start
No.
Not an exaggeration, for every 2-3 successful prints I've made, something new breaks on the printer.
First the printer bed tore off on my second print ever. So I replaced it with glass. Worked great for a few prints...
Then the nozzle jammed. Tried unclogging it, but it was consistently clogging, so I replaced it. Worked great for a few prints...
Then the PTFE connector on the extruder (the part that holds on to the filament tube) just fucking fell off. Looked for a replacement, it's not sold anywhere, so I had to replace the whole damn thing with this. Worked great for...no prints, because...
Immediately after, the "throat" on the hot end got jammed. I kept clearing it, but it kept jamming no matter how I set the extruder, so I replaced it, and it worked great for, like, 4 prints in a row!
I've also replaced the heat block due to a nozzle snapping off in it, after the thermistor failed and caused that to jam again.
And now, when it seemed like this printer of Theseus finally should have enough durable parts to get through a whole print, the stepper motors just started seizing up and the hot end violently jammed itself into the corner, melting the bed clips! I've tried different gcode, tried a firmware reset, made sure nothing was in the way of the motors, tried sd card vs Octoprint, no luck with anything. Know what it was? One of the auto-leveling sensors was being pushed down from the previous print. Which is fine, whatever, easy fix - but why the fuck is the printer's response to an obvious and easy-to-detect problem so violent and destructive? Nobody thought to program it to abort a print if the sensor buttons are pressed before the motors are engaged?? UGH.
Sorry for the rant. I'd seldom describe a piece of machinery as downright cruel to work with, but that's the only description I can think of befitting this printer. I regret every dime I spent on it, but at this point I feel like I'm stuck with it because of all the money I've poured into aftermarket part replacements. I really need to accept that it's a sunken cost, and just go fucking Office Space on it.
The community around the printer is pretty great, though.
Edit: 3 hours after I made this post, I got through one tiny test print successfully, and now the hot end won't heat up anymore!
Edit #2: Fixed the hot end, now prints won't come out right. I think the arms or belts are screwed up from the motors seizing so much. Sigh.
I picked up several 5" mirrors from Joann's yesterday, and thought to also pick up a can of Tacky Spray (https://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Purpose-Tacky-Adhesive-11-Ounce/dp/B001689P10). The tacky spray has enough grip to hold the mirror to the printing bed, and also appears to create a great grippy surface for my prints. I just sprayed a bit over the top of the mirror, let it sit for 15 mins (during initial warm up) and it works great so far. I've done 4 prints without having to re-spray it, and the prints still release just fine.
For the bottom Fan, i printed a modified base i found on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747339) and used a 120 fan with a 3pin to 2 pin adapter(included with the 40mm fan I bought), for the hot end i printed a modified fan duct also from thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3471759) to mount a 40mm noctua fan and spliced the original 30mm fan connector onto the "omnijoin connector" included in the box with the 40mm fan(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
So I use Cura with my printer, but there's some stuff you have to do first.
The biggest thing for me in getting my printer to work was switching to only using the microsd card instead of the USB connetion, and taking the g-code header and footer from the cat print and applying it to all of my cura slices. At work currently, I'll try to take some screenshots of the screens and stuff that i'm referring to in cura.
Edit: Couple images to illustrate the process: https://imgur.com/a/Wibxzft
From cura: go to settings, then go to printers, then select Manage Printers. Select the MP Delta Mini profile that you've created, and hit Machine Settings. then put the cat header and footer in and voila.
Edit 2: If you've lost access to your auto00.gcode, I've made a paste with just the header and footer information. find it here: https://pastebin.com/DtZyuc1H
Yes and no.
The printer really doesn't like anything bigger that 2gigs.
Try formatting it as either fat16, or (probably less likely to work) as fat32.
I know where you can get another guaranteed to work card: Monoprice has then from around $180.00 (US). But, they come with a free Delta Mini! :-). (ha!)
2gig cards might hard to find. 1 gig cards might be easier.
It looks like Amazon might have them though. Sandisk microSD 2GB memory card https: //www.amazon.com/dp/B000HCGAFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0838Bb29E5Q4V
This is what I use and my glass doesn't move a muscle
ARCTIC - Thermal Pad, Thermal Compound for Coolers, Highly Efficient Thermal Conductivity,Gap Filler, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply (145mm x 145mm x 0.5 mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0cYsDbYF4R8ZT
u/HenbestJP found a better deal on another thread, by the way. It comes with an microSD to SD adapter, and is $7.99 vs $11.99 (both have free shipping.) Thanks for all the information!
What size binder clips are you using? Is the bed free to move still up and down?
The bed needs to be free to click down in order for the autoleveling to function. I noticed that when I tried using "mini" binder clips, the bed was unable to move freely in order to trigger the button that the autoleveling routine uses to check whether the tool head is in contact with the base. Sure enough the nozzle would just slam into the glass bed using this.
What you need are "micro" binder clips. This will still let the bed move freely and autolevel correctly. I am not sure what country you are in, but these are the ones available in the US I got.
FYI: I ended up ordering theses:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J3BB000/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're slightly longer than the original, but work great. No changes are needed to use them, though the extra length will take a few mm off the max Z height.
If you plan on maxing out the Z height, change setting in your slicer from 120mm to 117.
I got a 10a upgrade. The printer cannot fry itself. In fact, if it was designed correctly, it shouldn't be able to draw more power than the stock power supply, but giving it the availability to pull more amperage is only better. I wouldn't waste the money on 20 amps as that's way overkill.
Here's the supply I went with. The MiniDelta uses an odd sized barrel connector so if you go with this one you'll have to handle that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>... I just reenter it and it stays.
Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.
This is the fan for the electronics in the base, don’t worry it isn’t an affiliate link. It’s the Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX and it makes a big difference... However, the steppers are still super loud and so is the hot end fan.
Noctua NF-A6x25
This is what I plug into. Works naturally and perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07922QTLS
​
I got mine off of amazon. Same size, easy to put on, feels more durable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HFPS9H2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I myself purchased this to solve that issue, and it works wonderfully. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RUV75D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pf45AbDCK7VVT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075B1R9YZ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
is this also a good option? or are the mirrors better & can you link to a good mirror or will a random mirror at a craft store work?
also the settings in cura im using (ill upload images later today) are the settings that he manual lists. but i downloaded the configuration & put the manual settings into it. is this ok?
This one is fulfilled by Amazon, would that be able to get to you?
120mm X 3mm Borosilicate Glass Plate, 3D printer Build Surface, Mini Delta https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075B1R9YZ
Hi there,
I'm wondering how many of you have successfully resolved your heating issues on the MPMD. I've upgraded the power supply to this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018G3ABWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and it's certainly made the bed heat a little more quickly. However, I'm still seeing a lot of fluctuation from the bed and the hot end. I don't care about the bed too much, but +-10 degrees constantly on the hot end is... not ideal.
I've got the v43 firmware (got this as a graduation gift, and that was the firmware it came with)...
What am I missing?
Thanks for the feedback on the power supply. Looks like my issue was poor ventilation before the issue became the power supply. I ordered one of these to attach to a better power supply, which I may not need - but i have it in case! I read on the size which isn't common - none of the power supplied I could find around the house matched it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYQMQFB
My machine would only read Non-HC (high capacity). I found some 2G on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-microSD-Memory-SDC-2GB/dp/B0015R2NUW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542570561&sr=8-5&keywords=micro+sd+card+non+hc
I put a glass ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075B1R9YZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) over my bed with clips. Will I get faster heating with the stock pad removed?