Best products from r/mr2

I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.

It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.

Nice video!

Only thing I would suggest is to pick up a clip on / lavelier microphone. Doesn't need to be a super expensive fancy one, a cheap one from Amazon / EBay will give you a big boost in audio quality over the in camera microphone. Something like this would be fine to start out with - https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Smartphones-Cancelling/dp/B016C4ZG74/

Thanks, this is what I'm using - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DX6BRK/

The best part is that the included bracket lines right up to the MR2's fog light mounts, so it mounts almost perfectly flush.

I am not using the fog light connecters. The kit comes with a fused control box that draws power directly from the battery. You can also wire it so that it shuts off when the headlights come on.

Yep! I'm no pro but they're probably fine... you should be able to screw the pistons in all the way until they're flush with the surface of the caliper IIRC.

Edit: here's that tool: SUPERTOOLS 3/8" Disc Brake Piston Caliper Wind Back Cube Tool TP1134 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y384EES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I4LKAb4V48KTQ

Edit 2: /u/trentosaurus's idea is better. Love me some autozone loaner tools.

Prussian blue is used to check your mating surface to make sure you have even contact all the way around. Bench grinding is done to remove any carbon build up from the face and stem of the valves, when rebuilding with used parts is, the cleaner the better. I’ll find a video I saw a long time ago of a forum members diy of his hg replacement that I agree with and it’s all relatively easy and cheap/free just takes time.

Thanks.

I just ordered them from amazon. I'm sure I could find them cheaper elsewhere but I already needed to put an order in + convenience factor.

Nice wheels btw, what size are they? Do you have any rubbing issues?

Good call, clicky.

It's wide enough to do the t-tops too. And with the 60" length and appropriate cuts, you may be able to do tails and t tops off the one $12.99 order. I went with some very generous cuts on the tails so not quite enough for me.

i would recommend checking the Automatic Transmission Fluid. use the photo below (link 1) to determine the condition of your fluid. the dip stick should be on the left side of the vehicle (near the fuse box in the engine bay), at the front of the transmission.

if it is dark/black, DO NOT flush it all out. extract 2 quarts out (2nd link to the pump that i use), then pump in 2 new quarts. drive for a bit (20 miles or so). see if it improves. if it does, in 30 days, do the same process again - only 1 quart though.

you'll repeat the process every 30 days until the fluid all looks clean/new.

http://transmissionrepairguy.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/transmission-fluid-color.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473299322&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=reverse+fluid+pump+hand+phoenix

Also for flushing and bleeding the coolant you can use one of those funnel kits to expedite the bleeding process. Just use it combination with the two bleeder valves up front.

Make sure to fill up the reservoir tank before the engine is at operating temp, this will prevent air from getting sucked back into the system as the coolant cools and contracts. The coolant cap in your picture is hooked up right.

I would also recommend taking the res tank out and cleaning it out, the debris in the bottom gets sucked back into the engine as it cools. It's pretty easy to take out, lift the bottom outwards and it should pull up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0764571427/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415709378&sr=8-1

Written by a MR2 owner, it covers basics for any car but it is useful if you are new to diy car stuff.

I have this shift knob on my 86'. Good quality and not too pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Accessories-PTR04-00000-06-Leather/dp/B004BASJZI

Maybe something like this? I'd assume a miata would be similar deminsions. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GL8DFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521431630&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=miata+car+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=41iFrGs-%2BkL&ref=plSrch

Full Kit Drilled Slotted Brake Disc and Ceramic Pad For 2000-2005 MR2 Spyder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017S6CMKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t7eaBbS722XM3

And high temp ceramic paint for the calipers. The outside of the calipers and the non braking portion of the rotor that touches the wheel were rusty so we replaced the rotors, sanded and painted the caliper and replaced the pads. Much stronger braking and we did all the work ourselves so the total cost was maybe $150

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Convertible-Haartz-Stayfast-Heated/dp/B00DR17A20


I recommend this one if you can spring for it. The canvas will last long than the vinyl.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M

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This stuff is supposed to be the shizznit on rubber seals like T-tops.