Best products from r/multicopterbuilds

I figure this may help anyone thinking about building a brushed micro, but didn't know where to start or shop. This is my list of preferred of components when I'm planning a brushed micro build. Happy New Year, and I hope this will bring in some more people into the custom built micro brushed multicopter world. Good Luck and happy building!

Websites and Threads I use for info:

• Micro Motor Warehouse Community Forum - Only a few months new, and already the best source for information regarding brushed micro builds.
  
  
• RCGroups 90mm-145mm brushed micro fpv build thread - Great thread for reading about other people's builds and tips on rcgroups. Run by a very knowledgable member: 1Hammer)
  
  
  Brushed Micro Frames:
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-H
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-Hex
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 135mm Micro-H
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 130mm Micro-Hex
  
  
  
• SOSx Micro-X V3 130mm
  
  
  
• SOSx Dragonfly V2 Micro-Hex 130mm
  
  
  
• Picnic Efficiency Racer Frames
  
  
  
• Picnic/MMW Reggae Shark V2
  
  
  Brushed Motors:
  
  
• [Hubsan H107C/D Replacement motors 8.5mm] (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107C-H107D-Original-Quadcopter/dp/B00SKUJL2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448305571&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan+motor) - Cheap and tame. Good for slower indoor builds.
  
  
  
• Multirotorsuperstore 0820-17 motors - Fast, efficient, and cheap. Good choice if you go through a lot of motors.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-15 "Fast" motors - Good mix of power & efficiency. Ideal for FPV platforms.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-17 "Dark Edition" motors - The fastest & most expensive of the bunch. Pulls the most amps too. Not suitable for Nano QX flight controls. Best with Beef's or Multiflite FC's.
  
  
  
  Flight Controls:
  
  
  
• Blade Nano-QX FPV 4-in-1 - Good for beginners, cheap, built in receiver, not the best board for acro, and lvc is annoying, but it's the cheapest DSM2/DSMX compatible board available, and no configuration needed.
  
  
• Beef's Brushed Board - Very nice 32-bit flight control. Fully tunable via cleanflight, accepts sat receivers, optional hex adapter available. Moderately expensive.
  
  
• Multiflite Nano-B - My personal favorite. Quad or Hex capabilities, built in spektrum sat rx plug & bind button. Built in jst connector for ftdi adapter (no messing with boot pins). Fully tunable via cleanflight, Most expensive of the bunch.
  
  
• Micro scisky 32bit - Newest 32-bit controller. So far reviews are very positive, and it's very affordable. Quads only. Same as the Hobby King Quanum Pico
  
  
  
  Propellers:
  
  
• Aflunta Clear Hubsan style props - Best hubsan style props available. Very durable. Quieter & more stable than stock hubsan props.
  
  
• JJRC 1000A Props - Ladybird style, but thicker, more flexible, and more thrust than hubsan props.
  
  
• Parrot Rolling Spider props - The most thrust, largest prop radius (73mm), & most expensive. A good match for CL-0820-15 "fast" motors.
  
  Batteries:
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 750mah Lipo - The standard for micro FPV platforms. Good blend of punch and flight time. Maybe on the heavy side for some people. Yields about 5minute flights on avg with 8mm motors and full fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 600mah 35C lipo - Good lipo if you are concerned about weight. Yields about 4 minutes of flight time w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 950mah 25C lipos - My choice for micro-hex builds since they have no problem carrying the additional weight. Yields 5-5:30min flights with a micro-hex w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  Cameras:
  
  
• RMRC 520tvl Pico Camera - 90 deg FOV. Great picture. Great for night flying, 3g, Moderately expensive.
  
  
• 600tvl micro wide angle camera - 170 deg FOV. CHEAP!!!! Not the best picture, but... CHEAP!!! You can install a 808 camera #16 wide angle lens to bring the FOV down to 120 deg. Not the best for night flying or for a really bright day.... dynamic range isn't that great... but it's CHEAP! Did I mention it was cheap?
  
  VTX:
  
  
• Altitude RC 25mw 5.8ghz vtx - My vtx of choice for micro builds. 25mw is enough to cover a full sized football field. Built in LC filter makes for a clean picture. Fatshark band only.
  
  
• FPV Hobby TX5810 - 10mw-100mw adjustable power, 50mw default. Needs a 5v step up and lc filter for reliable usage. Smallest form factor if you need to squeeze it into a tight space.
  
  
• Oversky 200mw micro vtx - For people who run boscam equipment. Needs a 9v step-up regulator.
  
  
• FX758-2 5.8G 200mW 24CH - Another popular option for boscam users. The page says 32ch, but in reality it's only 24ch. It covers both boscam high and low bands. Great if you are comfortable building your own vtx w/ a separate dip switch module, and you have a 32ch receiver.
  
  Antenna:
  
  
• FPV Hobby 1g micro antenna - Soldering required. Not for use with vtx's that require a U.fl connector (i.e. the attitude 25mw fatshark vtx).
  
  
• True RC Clover Leaf - Nice, expensive, works great. Best if you buy this bundled in the RMRC Component fpv kit w/ the pico camera and altitude rc vtx.
  
  LED's:
  
  
• Apex RC nano-qx led kit - Simple to use and install.
  
  
• Hubsan 3v Blue leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v White leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v green leds
  
  
• I do not suggest using the Hubsan Red led's on a custom build since you need to use a sub-2v drop down. The Red led's run on lower voltage, and you'll burn them out if you connect them directly to a 3v power source. Use 5v red led's if you want to have red led's in a DIY build.

Responding to your comments mostly... sorry for the wall of broken up text..

Attaching a gopro is more about the thrust of the quad than the strength of the carbon fiber. I would guess you could attach one to either build.

They will both likely be "overpowered" for you, but yea you'll grow into it.

I would argue the Racerstar ESCs are also more reliable than the Eachines.

If that's the matek with the OSD that shows your battery voltage, it's a great PDB (around $13 right now I think).

Haven't used an F4 board yet, but recently upgraded to the SP racing f3 and I sure do like it.

Props are cheap anyways and you'll be buying more at some point.

The Monster FPV cam should work great for you, there's a $25 clone of the HS1177 on banggood that would also work well.

Your vTx looks good. Make sure your antenna match the vtx port (sma or rp-sma) and check whether you need male or female.

YES get the 65C batteries. Though that rating isn't held to a standard for marketing them, you'll want some nice high-C, 4S batteries. I suggest both these Tattu 4S 1300mah batteries on amazon for around $25 (the price changes), and those infinity graphene 4s batteries on banggood (though it looks like maybe they took them off their site?). Get a few batteries, you're not going to want to have to charge every 5 min of flight you get.

I hear great things about the IMAX B6 charger here, but I personally use this Charsoon Antimatter 250W charger and love it. I grabbed a nice balance/parallel board for it and can charge 4 batteries in about 45 minutes. Just get one that people haven't had many problems with, and learn to safely charge lipos. Otherwise, there's a fire risk.

I have both the EV800s and the VR D2s. Got them for the same price (~$50) and like the VR D2s a bit better. But really, the EV800s are great. Again, make sure you get the correct antenna upgrades.

If you'll want to be flying a lot right away, maybe try to get 4 batteries. Otherwise I'd start with 2 if that's all you can afford, and get more later.

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS3X1BF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V5MVAECJYWCD&psc=1 (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786FQJ7F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VMS4C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZTBUF0TDJOMN&psc=1 (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0W2NOS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZJBTAG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4&psc=1 (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:

Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1
Whoop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P5777Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3GZUGKBRUI9VM&psc=1

Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

So a Tiny Whoop is a 66mm quad thats not really designed for outdoors. Its VERY VERY small - no more than 2-3mph of wind. You could get one with camera, upgraded motors and a controller for < $120, easily. I have one and love it for bashing around my house or office - its really not for a large outdoor space, but is a ton of fun indoors.

The atom is a full on brushless quad, writ small. You can either build it yourself for around $300, or buy ones built for $320 from Helipal (hint, its a tough build, and if its your first you might not want to build it). While people do fly them inside, it doesn't have protected props or anything and its very powerful, so it might not be good for indoors until you get very good or have a very large (like gym sized) space. I have one and even with the lower power 1104 motors I wouldn't fly it inside. If you want a brushless indoor quad, the Lady Owl might be a better choice given its a similar size and integrated prop protection. You could build a lady owl for about the same price ($320). A 610mah 3S battery should get you 7+ mins.

As for radio. For a Tiny Whoop you need a spektrum compatible radio, so you can do a small cheap MLP4DSM for $40, or you can move up to the Devo series (The 7e is popular). You could move all the way up to the Taranis X9D and add an OrangeTx modules (make sure to get version 1.2) and control anything Spektrum and anything FrSky from 1 radio. I currently run the very similar 9XR Pro radio with Orange and XJT modules. The 9XR Pro is $70, plus $35 for a XJT module and $35 for an OrangeTX module.


For a receiver - there's one builtin into the Inductrix, so no need there. For a small build like the Atom or Lady Owl, you'll want a smaller SBUS-based receiver like the FrSky X4R-SB or the XSR. They use a better protocol for communication and respond faster, and are only about $10 more than the D4R-II - about $35.

Goggles: I've had Teleporters (terrible), Attitudes (acceptable), have used Dom HDs and Dom V3s (very nice, but not worth the Money IMO) and currently run the Skyzone Sky02 v3, which have been my favorite. Diversity antennas, 40ch, builtin DVR and about $360.


Given your budget, I'd get both if you have that 10k sq foot space.

Get the inductrix, camera, motors and batteries for about $100 all in.
Get the atom pre built (or build yourself) for about $340.
Get the taranis and orange module for about $280
Get fat sharks or sky's for $300-$500.

All told $1000-1200

Tattus are really nice, but they can be pricey, graphenes work really well, and nano techs aren't bad either, Nanotechs are a little cheaper than the Tattu and Graphenes, any of them would be a good choice, I do think that Tattu would be pretty durable, as well as the graphenes, they both seem to have some protection measures built in such as the steel plates in the Tattus
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MW0WZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462293523&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=4+channel+lipo+rc+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=51u7%2Bki0NRL&ref=plSrch

That's the charger I use, however I think there's a 1 channel version if you don't need 4, it does a good job though and will automatically trickle charge(it basically drops the amps when the battery gets closer to full, pretty standard thing for lipos, you can fast charge if needed) and balance well

Also have you already built it ? I run raceflight and it's a night and day difference you may want to look into getting a CC3D revo to do raceflight

> I ended up with a bunch of 550mah 3S batteries: can I use them to tinker with this build?

I suspect you would get a minute of lackluster performance from those batteries on a 5" quad. However, those are great bats for a 2" build. So save them.

> Battery options once I'm 100% ready to fly?

Amazon sells Tattu and Infinity Graphene 1300 mAh 4S batteries that would work well with your rig. Ensure you get a high C rating (60+).

> Prop options?

Those DAL props are great. Other options are the HQ 5x4.3x3 props.

> Extra wires?

I have never needed to buy extra wires. You'll collect plenty from parts you buy.

> I feel much more comfortable dealing with this kind of merchant.

There are other reputable merchants with US stock at competitive prices. Examples are heli-nation.com, getfpv.com, racedayquads.com, etc. The amazon/ebay merchants are mostly just buying from the overseas guys and upping the price. But I understand the sentiment.

As far as checking your build. You'll probably need to buy an XT60 connector and wire to solder to the FC/PDB (Like these). You'll need need some battery straps (Like these). You'll need a vtx antenna (rec: Foxeer).

Do you have a battery charger?

Do you have FPV goggles?

I'm happy to help! The people on here were awesome when I was just getting started so I'm glad to pay it forward. If you are not planning on flying FPV (First Person View) than the rest looks good! The charger I got is HERE and has worked great for me. The only issue is that is does not come with the power brick that goes from the wall to the charger, but instead comes with power cord that can be hooked to a 12V LeadAcid battery with two clips to power the charger. I would personally recommend going to a hobby shop and picking one out so that you can get exactly what you need (plus shopping locally is always good). That, or if someone else on here can recommend another charger/power adapter to go with this one since I am still a little new to all this myself. The only other thing I saw is that the battery you picked out comes with a XT60 connector to power your quad, but the kit you got appears to have a Deans connector for your PDB (power distribution board). You should pick some of THESE to solder to your PDB instead of the Deans connector so it will work with your battery. The item I linked comes with one male and one female connector. I used the same ones for my build and they have taken a beating but still work great :)

Hey! I sure will. Thanks for your reply. That sounds great. I'd like to experiment with the cheaper FPV goggles before I invest in something nice. One quick question for you on the transmitter, is the FS-I6x good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/?coliid=I24XHKH2B0O5Y8&colid=3E2Q40NU5VK0A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't mind spending $30-40 more to buy something that will last me through upgrades (FPV being the biggest one). I see it has 10 channels out of the box and is only like $10 more than the FS-I6. I appreciate the reply!

[Formatted Example Response Post]

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00

Notes:

• You can get a much better radio. I recommend just adding to your budget. It's worth while. Search /r/multicopter for reasons why it's better! And the total only comes up to about $430.00 if you can wait for FPV.
  
  
• If you want to add FPV eventually, you need to have an amateur radio license (technician level at least) to operate legally.
  
  
• There are always additional little costs such as heat shrink, battery straps, etc.
  
  
• Try to supply all my parts from the US. Mainly for shipping speed reasons! ;) The parts on this list that aren't from the US are the Radio TX and the Camera. The Taranis radio can be bought in the US, and the boardcam probably can too for a bit of a premium.

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | | $453.00 CAD

Notes:

• Many of these parts go in and out of stock from domestic vendors. It is recommended that you shop around and find the best option for you.
  
  
• This build comes out below your budget by quite a bit. While you will have to pay for shipping and such, I would advise that you put some of those extra funds toward more props and batteries... you're going to need them.
  
  
• This kit will require some soldering. You can pick up a fairly cheap iron and some solder/flux (I recommend .03-.05) off amazon or from your local hardware store. I would advise practicing for a bit on some old electronics. Thrift stores are a great place to pick up an old motherboard if you don't have any laying around. Soldering is not very difficult and I was able to solder all my pins and other components after just an hour or so of practice!
  
  

Perfect!!! I decided to use that!

Can you let me know if you see any problems with this list?? Anything I can improve?? Anything I don't need??

Frame, PDB, FC, Motors, ESCs

Extra XT60 Battery Connectors

Props

Standoffs

2mm Gold Bullet Connector

Cable/Zip Ties

DIY FPV Kit

Tx/Rx

Tx/Rx to USB Adapter

Drone Battery 1 (heavy) 2200mAh

Drone Battery 2 (light) 1800mAh

FPV battery 1500mAh

What's the cheapest way to be able to get voltage to show on my FPV setup?

-Would I be able to use this voltage checker/warning buzzer?

What about a cheap lost model buzzer/discovery buzzer?? Can I use a switch on my Tx to make the alarm sound??

Is it overkill to get 3 batteries total?? 2 for the drone (So I can keep flying when one is charging) and 1 for the FPV reciever/display?

Thanks for the help!!

trying to do the exact same thing! I'm thinking about using my phone as the googles in a cardboard setup. Here's my parts list, please critique!

transmitter tutorial http://flitetest.com/articles/diy-micro-5-8ghz-fpv
receiver tutorial http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=64#tutorials
frequency stuff http://blog.oscarliang.net/5-8ghz-frequency-bands-b-e-f-different-brand/
another tutorial http://blog.oscarliang.net/diy-micro-fpv-setup-vtx-camera-v2/

On the quad:

fpv transmitter | bangood | 12.99

fpv camera | bangood | 10.89

3 way DIP switch | optional

antenna | use wire?

On the ground: (with google cardboard + phone)

usb capture adapter | bangood | 6.59

micro usb adapter | amazon | 4.99

rca to rca coupler | amazon | 2.19

receiver | amazon | 17.14

power adapter | HK | 1.99

2S battery | HK | 5.04

2s battery charger | HK | 27.47

Battery cable | HK | 2.99

Costs:

HK total | 37.49

amazon total | 24.32

bangood total | 30.47


TOTAL | 92.28



This seems like a lot of money to drop for what seems like it will be a fairly janky set up. Will this even produce a good experience?

If you have never flown before this is an excellent choice - https://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers-Copter/dp/B00MNG37C2/ It doesn't cost much, you can hammer it into the ground and objects and it keeps asking for more. Nothing about it is particularly exciting, but it gives you a great intro to the hobby. Extra batteries and charger are a must.

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

If you arent dead set on the parts you have already choosen you may want to consider something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YACIDNU?keywords=emax%20250&qid=1451850415&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I bought one of these when I build my first quad recently and was quite pleased with it.

This kit does not include standoffs for mounting PDB and FC though, i just picked some up from ACE hardware.

Would you recommend http://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1550mAh-Airplane-Drones/dp/B013I9S1SW/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1465186297&sr=8-17&keywords=45-90c or http://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1800mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9SAHO/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=13VV4GMDM062TWTE5JTK as better batteries for this drone?

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

[Unformatted Example Response Post]

• Frame - ZMR250 - $38.00 (http://multirotormania.com/frames/94-100-carbon-fiber-250mm-mini-frame-version-i.html)
  
  
• Motors - SunnySky 2204 2300kv (x4) - $84.00 (http://multirotormania.com/motors/577-sunnysky-2204-2300kv-brushless-motor.html)
  
  
• ESCs - MRM 12A SimonK (x4) - $46.00 (http://multirotormania.com/12-amp/385-mrm-2-4s-12-amp-simonk-esc-.html)
  
  
• Flight Controller - Naze32 - $22.00 (http://multirotormania.com/32-bit-/296-dragonfly32-acro.html)
  
  
• TX/RX Combo - Turnigy 9x - $60.00 (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8992__Turnigy_9X_9Ch_Transmitter_w_Module_8ch_Receiver_Mode_2_v2_Firmware_.html)
  
  
• Batteries - 3S 1300mAh 30C (x2) - $22.00 (http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/batteries/3s-lipo/30c-1300mah-3s-xt60.html)
  
  
• Battery Lead/Connector - XT-60 Battery Lead - $6.00 (http://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Balance-Helicopter-Quadcopter-Battery/dp/B00L42H0B0/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1427221212&sr=1-2&keywords=XT-60+Lead)
  
  
• Propellers - GemFan 5030 (x32) - $19.00 (http://ubuyadrone.com/propellers/5-props/5030/gemfan-5x3-propeller-2xccw-2xcw-black.html)
  
  
• FPV Camera - Sony Boardcam- $26.00 (http://www.surveilzone.com/fpv/fpv-camera/sony-super-had-ccd-600tvl-fpv-ir-block-camera-2.8mm-lens)
  
  
• vTX/RX - Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz - $40.00 (http://www.valuehobby.com/fpv/fpv-tx-rx/boscam-ts58200-and-rc5808-set.html)
  
  
• Screen/Goggles - 7" LCD - $28.00 (http://www.amazon.com/RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427204173&sr=8-1&keywords=7+lcd+monitor)
  
  
• PDB - Simple PDB - $10.00 (http://multirotormania.com/power-distribution/410-simplepdb-for-minis.html?search_query=pdb&results=12)
  
  
• Charger - Imax B6 - $26.00 (http://www.getfpv.com/batteries/battery-chargers/imax-b6-digital-lipo-nimh-battery-balance-charger.html)
  
• Total before tax/shipping: $427.00
  
  

  Notes:
  

• This build is slightly over budget but it includes a few things that will be one time purchases. Transmitter and battery charger should not need to be replaced any time soon!
  
• I included several sets of propellers as you will likely go through these rather quickly. They are fairly cheap but you will need a lot of them!
  
• Most of the products listed here (especially the SunnySky motors) can be found from authorized dealers for lower prices. If you're willing to pass up the convenience of purchasing from very few vendors you will be able to save a decent amount of cash!
  

You should start with a Syma x5c-1 or a hubsan x4 to start out with. They are about $50 and you will want to crash those when you are starting out. Crashing your 250 will get expensive quick. After you get about a month or so of stick time, then start looking into your 250 build. If you want, hubsan also makes an fpv version which is super fun to fly, but its around $100. Let me know if you have questions!

Syma

Hubsan

FPV Hubsan

I'd rather go with this kit then: Amazon UK

The rx/tx isn't too bad, but maybe you should get a 9x. Swap the charger for an imax b6ac. Get 35c 1500mah 3s for starters.

Edit: lipo alarm is a must without telemetry, shrinkwrap, double-sided foam tape, and a decent soldering iron are a good investment as well

You need a male to male RCA connector for the FR632 to go to the Quanum V2s.
http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Male-Coupler-Connector-Adapter/dp/B007PQ0K1G/

You need M3 standoffs to mount the flight controller.

Don't forget batteries and a battery charger if you don't have one already and all the little things like heat shrink, zip ties etc. You can cross check with this list I put together for my first build: http://copterwars.com/blog/?p=4#partlist

This is the charger I use:

http://www.amazon.com/HiTec-44167-Plus-4-Port-Multi-Charger/dp/B005MW0WZO

and here is a video of a guy talking about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jgtlo4Kc8Q