Best products from r/mwo

Does he like Mechwarrior, Mechs, and giant stompy robots in general, or is MWO his introduction to this particular IP?

If [a] you would like to give a tangible gift (eg not digital goods, not a gift card for digital gifts) and [b] you think he likes Mechs themselves (as opposed to just liking the video game), then you can buy mech models.

For models, you have three broad choices. (1) You can buy Mech-branded models, (2) you can buy non-Mech branded models from Japan that nevertheless look a lot like Mechs because of copying, or (3) you can buy completely unrelated models that are nevertheless giant stompy robots (if you know he likes giant stompy robots in general and not Mechs specifically).

(1) You can buy the Mechwarrior or Battletech-branded models, which are smaller, cheaper, and usually come pre-built. If you search "Mechwarrior" on Amazon.com's "Toys and Games" category you will find pre-painted plastic models. If you search "Battletech" on Amazon you will find unpainted pewter models that he will need to paint himself (which he probably isn't into if he just likes the computer game). You can also go on ebay and search "Painted Battletech ____" filling in the blank with the names of mechs you know he likes or are in the game to find pre-painted pewter Battletech models. (You can go to mwomercs.com and look at the art gallery for the names of mechs that are in the game.) Note that sometimes the pewter models don't closely resemble the mechs as they appear in-game, though.

On the plus side, these are branded appropriately and quite cheap. However, these models are intended to be used in board games, so they're smaller less physically attractive as pure display objects, and IMO just don't look very good.

(2) For more attractive models, you might want to look at model kits from Japan. Now, there are no Mechwarrior-branded models from Japan, BUT some of the iconic mechs were actually copied from Japanese anime IPs of which there are model kits.

This is the Japanese version of the Rifleman mech, and has the added advantage of closely resembling the Jagermech (which is actually in-game)

This is the Japanese version of the Warhammer mech, but has the disadvantage of not closely resembling any mechs that are currently in the MWO game. Nevertheless, it's something he would appreciate if he's into Mechwarrior in general and not MWo specifically.

The larger the model, the more expensive. 1/60 scale is larger than 1/72 scale. I would be wary of buying random anime robots as the aesthetics are subtly distinct and your BF might not like the anime style as much. But if you stick to the anime robots that were copied for Mechwarrior, then it's much safer.

The advantage here is that the models are quite large and attractive. The disadvantage is none of the models will be Mechwarrior-branded and there are no model versions of the Mechs that are currently in-game, only other Mechs in the universe.

(3) Finally, for someone who just likes giant stompy robots in general, you could get him some Pacific Rim models, which are quite high-quality in build and look pretty great. This, for example. Obviously if he loves Pacific Rim this would be a much more appropriate gift.

So I ended up using a Nostromo since I had it laying around but the thumb movement is a little stretch for me and causes some soreness after prolonged playing. I think a joystick might help this. Now that I have 21 hours played I understand how the game works a little bit more. If I got a joystick for my left hand and kept on using the mouse in my right. Will the movement of the joystick itself map directly to the WASD keys? Where if I move it forward it will accelerate and back decelerate/back up? Along with partially forward/sideways and go that direction? The mini joystick on the nostromo works well with this. I just dont have large hands to fit my hands on the firing keys along with the movement. If i can find a joystick to achieve this along with 4-5 keys for targeting, weapons 1-3, and zoom on the stick itself I think it would work perfect for me. Also really tempted to get this FragTx

Yea I'm not corssing my fingers.

I do like how EVGA has made a twin fan version of the GTX 760 which looks like it would be easier to clean out then the solid cover with a rotary fan on one end.

Rotarty Fan model

Twin blade fan model

Here you go

It's an ambidexterous design, so no issues with left handed use, and it's LOADED with buttons, 5 which are very very easily reachable with your left thumb and forefinger.

Map your analog throttle input to the forward/backward motion of the joystick, map the leg turning to the left/right movement on the joystick. I've got weapon group 3 assigned to the trigger, PTT for vent assigned to the top button, targeting to the one below it, jump jets to the left top button, and naming overlay on the top right (most of my mechs have 3 or less weapon groups). The control is superb. The analog throttle lets you fluidly match pace with anything around you, to ease slowly forward or backward with a full writs motion, allowing for tons of precision. It's AWESOME. I can't stand playing with WASD anymore.

Try it out!

You may have a point here... somewhere?

But it gets entirely lost in this mess of tears and tampons you have posted about how your OP Stalker or AC/40 build isn't viable anymore when really it takes a lot more skill to play such a build...

There are 2 reasons why all this QQing about balance and heat are bullsh!t...

• The game is free - you don't have to pay anything to experience a MMO mech simulation with a large amount of well built, detailed mech variants. If the devs were taking your money monthly, maybe... MAYBE you would have a soap box to stand on
  
• The game is in beta - they make it clear they are still working on the game from big things to little things. With that, people who agree to play it and enjoy it, need to be understanding of that fact and work with the devs... not bitch and moan every time they make a change that effects your PPC boat.
  
  Not only is PGI delivering something that I think a lot of people have been waiting for for a long time, but they are doing it in a format that lets the lore-obsessed fan base have a say on how things come together. Re-up your WoW subscription or tinker around on Candy Crush if the direction MWO is being taken isn't to your liking.
  
  No one is going to agree with every change PGI makes.. just not going to happen. So go pick yourself up new box or accept that boating is OP and needed to be curved. Risk and Reward... pffft.

hehe i bound a usb foot pedal for my jj's (like 12 buck on amazon!) and the lulz are endless. keyboard's still probably a better idea, but i like STOMPING my jumpjets. here http://www.amazon.com/USB-Foot-Switch-Keyboard-Pedal/dp/B008MU0TBU
its like a really crappy guitar pedal. NOT GOOD FOR GAMEPLAY. But super FUN :D - need to use it as a trigger for a chair mounted transducer or something so you can really FEEL those jj's

https://www.reddit.com/r/OutreachHPG/comments/3w4ynv/would_you_ever_do_dual_joystick/
a few days after that I had purchased 2 joysticks.
one of them was this one
http://www.amazon.com/Mad-Catz-V-1-Stick-PC/dp/B001MGNWDI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451414892&sr=8-2&keywords=mad+catz+flight+stick
I use that for my throttle and body turn.
you don't want a pure throttle. a joystick on the left is better.
Using a joystick on the left hand, which controls turning, and throttle up and down is great.
hat up: UAV
hat left: night vision
hat down: heat vision
hat right: battlefield
middle bottom button: targeting
left upper: the thing that pops up names
left lower: advanced zoom
right upper: arm lock toggle
right lower: Toggle chain fire
trigger: jump jets
pinky: push to talk
.
using the joystick on the right hand side for pitch up down and torso twist left and right was an exercise in masochism.
the reason being was that the dead zone set in the game makes you move the joystick so many degrees until your torso starts moving. so if you need to target something quickly, you have to jerk the joystick, and once it crosses the deadzone threshold, your torso turns way too fast. so its very hard to do fine target aiming, and when it comes to quick gross aiming like brawling, you tend to overshoot, since you have to reset your joystick back to center to stop your torso from twisting.

i tried to keep working at it, but it doesnt work. if the threshhold was zero, it might. but currently it doesnt.
.
if you are set on joystick and throttle, you also need footpedals. throttle controls forward and back, foot pedals control turn left and right, and then joystick controls pitch and torso twist.
.
as for joystick support, i bought 2 different joysticks, and they are both recognized by the game. I dont know what would happen if i bought 2 identical joysticks though.

My girlfriend inherited any upgraded parts, I wouldn't have replaced many of these parts otherwise. Watch newegg for specials, sign up for their email list. This will save you money on any computer you buy. camelcamelcamel.com does a good job of tracking online prices, although newegg isn't happy with them right now. A laptop will run you around 1,200$ (easily more) if you want a decent gaming rig. A desktop will cost you around 700$-900$ depending on what parts you already have (take out an old laptop harddrive, save 65-110$; already have a windows 7 key, save 90-180$).

Part | My first computer | My upgrade

--|--:|--:
Case |75$ | 65$
Monitor | 160$ | 160$
Operating system |150$ from school store | (3-reuseable keys, won't re-buy for a long time)
Hard drive |120$ | 90$
Graphics card |2x120$ |450$
RAM |2x1st=72$ 2nd=36$ | 70$
CPU |110$ | 160$
Motherboard |100$ | 134$
PSU |90$ |130$
CD/DVD |10$ |


Note: prices on memory/monitors have sharply dropped since I bought these. Eg. 16g(2x 8g) ddr3 @1600 is only 70$ now. When I bought my first computer that cost around 140-150$. A 1T hard drive cost around 135$, now a 3T hard drive costs 110$ (not on sale).

Well there are two big differences between my model and that car print. First exactly like you pointed out he painted the model straight onto raw print so every buildline is who isn't through the paint.
Second is that his model was printed on a desktop FDM printer in PLA material. My mech was printed on an industrial size SLS machine in HD Nylon so difference in resolution is vastly different.

But still, if I would to paint base coat onto that mech without priming and sanding it first you would also see buildlines on it.

You can sand the model without priming it at all yes but it would take you much longer because you would be physically sanding away the buildlines to make it smooth. What happens when you prime it first is that the primer is filling in the buildlines as it dries but also as you sanding it so you only require half the time to bring it to the same smooth finish.

Like I said I am using heavy build primer that is so finally dedicated to smooth models when sanded. Such primers are used on cars to repair body work etc. Primers, as they call them, that you buy in say Games Workshop in reality are just grey or black colored spray paint. There is literally no difference between them and your basic spray paint you can buy in any department store. They just call it 'primer' and charge double for it.

What you need is a heavy high build car primer. This is the one I use: U-POL HIGH/AL High5 Primer, 450 ml, Beige https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003TQD5CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_II6lybPY0KDY0

Trust me it works absolute wonders

Not at all. Video Games are just as worthy of history as other subjects, and the video game industry is full of notable topics. Chronojam created these notes based off of newsclippings and backing up various posts in his free time.

Now, if you consider the work of Curt Vendel and Marty Goldberg, which was greatly influenced quite frankly out of internet drama on the atari games forum, you get a wonderful piece of history like this after 8 years of compilation and research: http://smile.amazon.com/Atari-Inc-Mr-Curt-Vendel/dp/0985597402/ref=smi_www_rcolv2_go_smi?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

And that digs into all the drama from the perspective of many employees working at Atari over the years. That project was kickstarted, naturally. MWO is not on the level that Atari once was, but you never know how things will turn out...

Macross Plus is the only thing that was officially translated into English, and Bryan Cranston does one of the main characters. It's pretty great. Think Top Gun in space. Only four episodes long though.

This is what I have, which has both the four episode and the movie cut version. Basically the same thing twice.
https://www.amazon.com/MACROSS-PLUS-ULTIMATE-MOVIE-EPISODES/dp/B0000667MM

watched this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TbKe30KtCc

(summary: joystick replaces keyboard, not mouse)

and inspired me to picked up this bad boy because it's cheap AND ambidextrous.

http://www.amazon.com/Mad-Catz-V-1-Stick-PC/dp/B001MGNWDI/ref=sr_1_9?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1372774635&sr=1-9&keywords=joystick

and then i proceeded to HATE it for the first day. It takes times for the left hand to readjust (if you know what i mean) but once it does it becomes intuitive and fun.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/MACROSS-PLUS-ULTIMATE-MOVIE-EPISODES/dp/B0000667MM

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I use a HOTAS and only use the throttle control and stick to the mouse. The Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X is great and decently priced. HOTAS

It does separate by the way the cable in between is 22.5 inches from side to side.

I couldn't find the Attack model new for anything less than $100, so I picked up the Extreme 3D instead for around $30.

Thanks for the advice!

Saitek Cyborg Graphite


What I use, and yes those bits flip to the other side so it's comfy too. Enough buttons to be useful but not overload the offhand.

it'd look really good as one of those clocks with the arm that swings back and forth to "write" the text in the air. Sort of like this: http://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Message-Clock-TDE-Systems/dp/B000O5H1YO

Starterbook: Sword and Dragon is the first in a series of products that is designed to help ease new players from the Classic BattleTech Introductory Boxed Set into Total Warfare. The book features two company-sized units, one each from House Davion and House Kurita. Sword and Dragon details each of the units, including unique 'Mech variants and personalities. In conjunction with Iron Wind Metals, these unique 'Mech variants have received their own miniatures. In addition, the book features a series of loosely defined scenario "tracks" that can be strung together to form a campaign. There are also rules for the unique units that are fielded by the two independent companies and prototype advanced-technology (for the 3040s) equipment.

Sarna link - Amazon link

Also how hard would it be to wire switches like these to do simple functions in game?

http://www.amazon.com/Acer-Aspire-V3-551G-X419-15-6-Inch-Midnight/dp/B00AYT8H3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383148539&sr=8-1&keywords=a10+laptop

I have the samsung version of this. It plays MWO rather well.