Best products from r/myog

We found 42 comments on r/myog discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 197 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/myog:

u/nd2nd · 1 pointr/myog

I actually feel working with down is not so bad. In some ways, it's easier than with synthetics.

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A couple of other things:

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I'm not sure if your Green Pepper pattern is for an insulated garment. Unless your pattern is already designed for insulation with the amount of loft you intend to have, it will have to be adjusted. If you don't, the loft will push inwards and it will fit too tight (voice of experience).

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This involves kind of tricky math but you can probably just increase the pattern dimensions by about 10% to 15% (or just size up accordingly) and that will get you pretty close. "Circular" measurements like the chest or bicep require more increase (10% - 15%); "straight" measurements like sleeve length require a little less (5% - 10%). The more loft you want, the bigger this effect is.

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If you really want to fine-tune it, you could consider your first version a "working prototype", and adjust the pattern based on how it comes out. Your second version will likely fit much better.

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Regarding working with down, if you are decent with chopsticks, I've found that to work very well. Plastic ones seem to have less static electricity than wooden ones.

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You need an accurate scale like this:

https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-LB-1000-Compact-Removable/dp/B002SVQHWY

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Make an aluminum foil "box" and tare it out on the scale. Then move as much down as you need for a compartment, and start transferring. Just jam it down the hole. The down stays togther pretty well during the transfer with chopsticks, and static electricity seems to keep it "stuck" to the fabric pretty well once inside. There are always a few down clusters that end up floating around the living room, but not many. I've never had any kind of "down disaster" with this method. I've made several jackets using this method and it's simple and fast and works quite well.

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I considered the shop vac method but I felt that it might work better for quilts, where the amounts of down being transferred are relatively large. A jacket compartment, depending on the width of the compartment, might only hold about 0.05 ounces (that's not a typo). It's really just a handful of down. I'm not sure how accurate the shop vac method would be for such small amounts... but again, I haven't used it and it might work great. Please report back! ;)

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The other thing to consider is the steps of construction. Since it sounds like you're experienced with sewing and pattern-making, you're probably fine with this, but I found trying to figure out the order of the steps in construction sometimes baffling (pun not intended).

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If the GP pattern instructions are not for a down garment, you'd have to figure out beforehand when and how you're going to be filling the compartments. There is definitely some planning, or you could end up most of the way through the project and realize a compartment is no longer accessible. Again, voice of experience. ;)

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If you do end up needing some "assistance" with this kind of project, the Thruhiker Whitney kit is great with good instructions, and you could certainly use the steps of construction with any pattern. I bought and used the Thruhiker Whitney pattern and found it very useful. I've made several jackets with made-from-scratch patterns and designs, using the basic Whitney instructions as a guide. The Kinsman kit is also great but it is for a synthetic garment, so the steps of construction are very different than for down.

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My Whitney project:

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/97152865@N05/23842703344/

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u/r3dreck · 8 pointsr/myog

hyperd 300 from ripstop for the body, straps, etc... I did the amazon 3d mesh for the straps, putting in some 1/4 foam from ebay, the mesh I received today so haven't worked with it yet but seems super nice. Other random bits and things I got from ebay such as shock cord, etc... if not super important. For the 1/2" webbing I only use nylon webbing (don't like the polypro for it and can't remember where I got it from but need more).

I use 2mm Z-Line Dyneema Cord, LineLoc 3 WSR Side Release Buckles, and 3/4" Ladder Loc Buckles from zpacks now for the other bits.

Links:

https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collections/pack-fabric/products/hyperd-300-diamond-ripstop-polyester

http://www.zpacks.com/materials/hardware.shtml

http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/spectra_cord.shtml

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUG12VC/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N9I7NRI/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-x-29-x-60-Hi-Dense-CLOSED-CELL-Uphol-Foam-G/202282536215?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

For patterns I did my own... so far this is my favorite sizing:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ladOenCTqjnsUGmuZYlZkJJDZVXFA3VI/view?usp=sharing

I do a nutty 1" seam allowance but I think it helps me get some better lines.

Method:
-- I cut the fabric all out in the sizing.

-- Make the pockets, I sew the channels onto the mesh, add in shock cord, usually I do that length the same as the side of pack (not the pocket). Bar tack the cord in but leave about 3/4" from the edge.

-- I then tack the pockets to the side as well as the webbing for things like your sit pad, cord, etc...

-- make the straps and attach those to the back as well as the triangles... I bar tack the seam where they connect for extra strength

------ Straps: sew right side to right side and pull it though itself when done like a tube, shove the foam into it, bar tack on webbing and the ladderlock the way you want it

-- sew the sides to the back, then the front (with the large pocket) to the sides, all inside out so it's a big tube

-- sew on the bottom, I do the sides first then the front, then the back...

-- I cut away all the extra junk inside the seam (like webbing, pockets, etc) to 1/2" or about that. I just then fold the allowance into one another and sew on the edge.

-- I then feel where the stuffs at inside like webbing, pockets etc and run a quick bar tack on those for extra strength.

-- fold over the top once add velcro, fold again and sew it along the bottom all the way round.

-- bar tack on the line loc buckle with webbing

-- add cordage

-- go backpacking

Bar tackwise I just do the buttonhole setting at width of 5 and like 2-3 length... run it forwards then back a couple times.

The angle of the straps I did like they do on the g4 like so:

http://www.backpacking.net/makegear/gvp-pack/makeow11.jpg

I've been messing with s vs. j straps and think I prefer the s myself but that's personal preference. Here is a full size J I did based off of Zimmer's write up on BPL:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1552JCmPH4oedr_3eqrqfyO3c_L7mmoiD/view?usp=sharing
for S I did a pattern using an SWD pack I had before I sold it.

Jump right in and have fun with it. It can be a bit nerve racking your first time but once you get that one out of the way you'll be whipping them out. I'm doing pack #5 right now, did a bridge hammock, many various pockets for buddies, some mitts, etc... the more you do it the easier it gets and after the first trust me you'll be hooked.

Good luck.

u/johns_brain59 · 28 pointsr/myog

[X-post from r/campinggear] Hey everyone, I cringe when I see the cost vs contents of most first aid kits on the market. Too much unnecessary stuff and only the highest priced kits have clotting powder, which I’ve used on the trail for controlling bleeding with large abrasions and deep or tangential lacerations. I put together my suggestions, with an eye toward maximizing usefulness and minimizing per unit cost. IMO this is superior to most kits costing 2-3x more. Light enough for the discernible backpacker, but makes a great gift for family and friends to throw in the car pocket, the boat, ATV, or carry along to kids sporting events. Feel free to add, subtract or substitute to customize your own.

Ever-Ready First Aid Adhesives, assorted sizes, 280ct $6.95 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179S0IAW
Self explanatory, enough for 2-3 of each size per DIY kit.

Vakly Stretch Gauze: 12 pk 4” x 4yds $7.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQFPA6
1 pk per kit and 4 left over for the home medicine cabinet.

McKesson individually wrapped sterile gauze pads: 50ct $5.17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C5P9J8
6 per kit, throw them in a ziploc baggie to protect against moisture.

Woundseal clotting powder: 20 pkts $28.06 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RUJXR6
Remember that compression alone, when done properly, effectively controls most bleeding. But when a member of your group is on aspirin or other blood thinners, or sustains a nasty cut that won’t stop bleeding, this stuff is awesome.

3M Duct tape: 1.88in x 30yds $3.89 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013B1XHE
Countless uses for the backpacker / camper, from tourniquet, fracture splinting, reinforcement of wound dressings, fashioning a moleskin barrier for blisters, not to mention tent, pack or sleeping bag repair. Grab a few extra straws from your local fast food joint, trim them to 2 inches, then roll up 4 to 6ft lengths of duct tape around the straw. The straw in the middle doubles as a pocket billows for fire starting.

Rensow white petroleum jelly 5gms, 144 pkts: $24.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAGT85M
Lip balm, burn treatment, also apply to rashes, blisters and abrasions to keep gauze from adhering. Doubles as an excellent fire accelerant for bushcrafting. I squeeze some on a cotton ball to use with my tender for catching a spark.

Kirkland anti-diarrheal (loperamide) tablets: 400ct $9.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXPY004
Put 12 per kit and keep the rest for that week-old lasagna that you should have thrown out.

Ibuprofen 200mg tabs: 2x500ct $3.93 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1NJAJS. Put at least 40 per kit as this is likely to be the first supply used.

Diphenhydramine capsules 25mg, 100ct : $4.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080CKDW
Useful for allergies, insect stings, contact dermatitis, and doubles as a sleep aid for those restless nights in the hammock. 12 per kit should do.

Triple antibiotic ointment 0.5oz 144 pkts: $12.18 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2T9K3K
6 to 8 per kit should do, and keep the rest for replen.

Ziplock snack bags, 40ct (for storing meds): $2.73 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U9ZFFCY
Please clearly label each baggie using an indelible marker with name of med, adult dose and expiration date. Pediatric dose optional. Individual “gas station” packets are much more expensive but if routinely carried in vehicle this may be a consideration (law enforcement doesn’t like unlabeled pills floating around in baggies).

First Aid Bags (empty), Alazco, 8 bags $32.82 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182MQ4MU
Highly optional but nice for making your kit look pretty if you’re giving these away as gifts. I double wrap mine in gallon ziploc bags for moisture control.

A printable first aid primer: https://s3.amazonaws.com/yohsresourcelibrary/First+Aid+Quick+Guide.pdf
Certainly not a comprehensive guide, but has some key information like how to perform CPR.

u/segue1007 · 1 pointr/myog

Long rambling post warning...

I work in an industrial shop that makes medium-weight to heavy-weight products (dust filters to giant truck tarps, basically). I don't know the home machines much, but I can share a little knowledge on industrial machines if you're at that point (the price point is substantially higher, expect to spend $1000-$1600, although you'd probably get 60%-90% back in resale value). It's not for everyone. People do amazing things with Singer Heavy Duty home machines, and they're much more affordable and practical.

The biggest difference with industrials is that they're designed to run all day, at high speeds, and last for a very long long time. But the best difference is that you can buy a specialized machine for exactly what you want to sew.

For gear stuff, the reason you'd want to upgrade to an industrial is to get a medium-weight single-needle walking foot that can walk over and sew through anything you'll have to deal with: Tacky fabric coatings, slick fabrics, thick fabrics, thick seams or binding, multiple layers of webbing, zippers, foam up to 1/2" thick. It will feed and stitch exactly the same whether it's just two layers of 200 denier nylon, or 3 layers of webbing plus two overlapped hemmed seams. And it's smooth over the transitions.

Don't bother with an industrial drop-feed garment machine like a Juki DDL-8100, it'll just do what a home machine does, but faster.

The type of industrial you'd want is something like a Consew 206RB or a Juki DNU-1541. The downside is that they are only straight-stitch... The zig-zag capable versions cost literally twice as much. I made this bag with a 206RB, and it handled foam, 1000D nylon, and heavy bound seams without blinking. Just walks right over it, with perfect stitches.

Both of those machines have a bunch of affordable accessories too: Zipper feet, cording feet, edge guides, edge binding attachments, etc. You can also use heavy thread (92, easily).

New vs. Used: It's totally fine to buy a used industrial, as long as it's in good working order. Worn paint is fine, rust is not. Bad maintenance/tinkering is a red flag, things like random screws jammed where they don't belong, filed-down hook tips, ground-down feed dog holes, sagging tabletops, sunken-in machine heads, anything that looks overly "rigged" without a good explanation. Do NOT buy a "project machine", only buy one that runs great as it sits. Anything with a clutch motor, subtract $250 from your offer and throw that thing in the nearest dumpster and buy a servo motor (a positioning motor is 100% worth the extra $$).

You absolutely don't need an industrial machine. It's expensive. It's heavy. It takes up a lot of space, and is definitely not portable. It will not magically make you better at sewing. It has less overall functionality than a home machine with 15 stitch patterns, that can zig-zag, fake an overlock stitch, or make decorative stitches. But they're really pleasant to work with when you get used to them, because you don't have to worry about the machine limits, you can just sew whatever you want to sew.

u/nicpottier · 1 pointr/myog

File holders may be cheaper. I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Cutting-Colorful-Kitchen/dp/B01HN7ZGUQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=flexible+cutting+board&qid=1570654834&sr=8-4

So have enough to last a lifetime now. (basically used 2"s across the short side of one)

Some context on the pocket. We travel a lot to various places and often find ourselves exploring a city, finding ourselves in crowds and whatnot. It is nice having a light pack to bring on the town with a jacket, etc, so that's kind of what this pack is aimed at. And when in those crowds it is nice to have the peace of mind that nobody can get into your pack. So a pocket against your back fits that nicely. (as does a roll top fwiw)

Stitching is still terrible, but definitely getting better. A lot of it is learning the idiosyncrasies of the machine. For example the thread I have has a tendency to get bound on the pin on one of my pins and I don't really notice it right away so that causes high tension and everything goes South. Lots of variations on that (threading and getting a loop around the screw of the foot retainer, not holding the thread as I start sewing, not keeping pin down when stopping or rotating etc..). I'm getting better at checking all those things and also getting better at controlling speed, so confident my next will be worlds better but still a lot of things are goofy on this one.

I did do the bathtub again, but ya, this time didn't cut at all. I'd say it is a bit trickier because lining up the bottom isn't quite as obvious. You also end up with an odd flap there. I ended up folding that flap into itself, then sewing it through on the open edge and that makes it pretty small and much neater looking. I think I like the bathtub setup for a small pack like this but would go for a single front panel for a bigger / more serious one.

One question for anybody listening, on binding with grosgrain (which I haven't done yet), what is the order of operation there? Do you put in your "real" stitch at say 1/2", then go back with the grosgrain at 3/8"? That seems to be how packs I have are done but not sure on best practices.

u/kecker · 3 pointsr/myog

The unfortunate reality is that many of the tribes lost the art and history behind the tipi. The best resource we have today is a book by a white man who resided with several tribes and wrote down his knowledge in a book originally published back in 1957.

http://smile.amazon.com/The-Indian-Tipi-History-Construction/dp/0806122366?sa-no-redirect=1

Today pretty much everything you read is taken either directly or indirectly from that book. Fortunately it's a great read and the Laubins took great care in not only detailing how a tipi is made/built/lived in but also why and the cultural heritage behind it.

That is a great starting point.

After that talk attending pow wows can be another resource as methodology varies greatly not only from tribe to tribe but from family to family.

u/abcpacks · 1 pointr/myog

Partly hanging in a tidy-ish fashion, and then... boxes. A lot of boxes. Beware of the wife's reaction though.I recently upgraded the 'desk', let's just say she wasn't totally pleased: http://abcpacks.com/galleries/workshop

Regarding the boxes, I have mostly 3 kinds:

- Assortment boxes with different splits, and clear lid like these: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0002YYXUC/

- Small clear plastic boxes (~5L) I can work with while on the desk, in which I drop medium size stuff): https://www.amazon.de/dp/B076S2VVFW/ref=twister_B07LCWBBD7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

- Big-a** clear plastic box (~50-60L) for the fabrics: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B076SDFKQ9/ref=twister_B07LCWBBD7?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Links are just for examples, I found boxes like these for cheap at the hardware store. The lid is important! You definitely want to be able to pile them up.

u/-c0de- · 1 pointr/myog

Do you mean industrial, or heavy duty? If you mean industrial, then /u/Radio_rons_child has your answer. If you mean heavy duty (meaning its not some off the shelf light weight multi-function machine), then yes, they are out there and exist.

I have an 1963 Kenmore Heavy Duty 158-13500 that will sew several pieces of leather together, and it has a walking foot and does both straight and zigzag stitches. I purchased it off of Craigslist for $25.

If you are interested in something heavy-duty, be sure to research on several DIY/MYOG areas of forums and see what other people have. Sometimes they call them "thread injectors". This is what I did, and I had compiled a list of makes/models to keep my eyes out for.

If you are looking for something right now, I have heard good things about the Singer 4432 Heavy-Duty , and I know that it too will also sew leather, so backpack straps shouldn't be an issue.

u/BenjaminSiers · 1 pointr/myog

I know it isn't what you are asking, but I have found starbucks via instant coffee packets work great, and they are easy to portion and pack. These Things vvv

https://www.amazon.com/Starbucks-Italian-Instant-Coffee-8-Count/dp/B00NOE1KHG/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1537211959&sr=8-4&keywords=starbucks+via+instant

u/hannick9 · 1 pointr/myog

I needed a heavy duty machine to fix a canvas teepee and sew a hot tub cover and I got the Singer 4432. It's VERY affordable, runs like a champ, and it's super easy to reload thread with the drop in bobbin. I'd definitely recommend it as a first sewing machine, especially because of the low price. I sewed through 6 or so layers of marine vinyl with no problem.

u/rockayama · 1 pointr/myog

I think it's a great idea to make your first pack with cheap ($$) stuff, and then spend money on later packs, once you've gained some knowledge, techniques, and preferences on what you like in a pack.

So, to address the other comments, presumably - I say, because I haven't tried it - you could use some fray-stop on your seams to help them hold. Maybe silicon seam sealer?

For the water, you could try and apply water resistance with a Wash in product, a spray, or some people do wash and spray after. If washing, I'd do it before constructing, spray could happen after, but I'm hypothesizing, as I haven't used either.

Probably should still use a trash compactor liner but it would help keeping the water from weighing your pack down.

u/BatteryLicker · 3 pointsr/myog

I used 3/4" blue sleeping pad as the foam in shoulder straps and a hip belt. If you don't need a lot of padding, it'd be easier to sew through/around 3D mesh (possible ventilation) or thinner 1/4" foam or a yoga mat. 500D Cordura is extremely durable and affordable fabric, 250D would be lighter and thinner. Using ripstop nylon would be another option (Joann's fabrics has some) and lighter weight, but not as tough as Cordura. Note that Cordura and different nylons aren't 'breathable' but I prefer not having them soak up sweat.

Check http://www.rockywoods.com/ and http://www.seattlefabrics.com/

How I made straps (two cordura layers around blue foam)

  1. Sew your webbing and buckles to the outer piece of fabric (cordura).

  2. Sew the front and back fabric together. Either sew the fabric panels inside out and stuff foam into sleeve OR sew the fabric around the padding and bind the edges.

  3. Sew a few bars through the foam to hold it in place.

    3D Mesh Belt (cordura outside, 3D mesh inside)

  4. Sew webbing and buckles to fabric outer layer

  5. Sew 3D mesh to fabric outer and bind edges

  6. Sew bars to keep the two pieces from separating

    [edit]

    Look at these for inspiration (or buy one) this, this, this, etc. You can also search for 'removable hip belt' patterns. Make sure you leave enough space in the front to cinch the belt (so foam only covers back and hips)
u/stalker007 · 2 pointsr/myog

Spend the extra money and get some reflective cordage.

Its super nice for stuff like tent tie outs and the such when you are walking around in the dark with a head lamp.

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHTC

You should be able to find it at REI or EMS in the states.

Btw I have the same cheapo MSR knock offs and I didn't attach any cord, haven't blown away yet.

u/StephenJonesUS · 2 pointsr/myog

I have a video I just shot heading to YouTube soon that should help. For now, the advice about using the notches is the best. I rarely pin. I use clips .

Basic outline:

  1. Clip at all known alignment points (edges and notches)
  2. Pull fabric straight between two clips, find center, clip again.
  3. Repeat until the whole seam is complete
u/thealoof · 3 pointsr/myog

I use a Singer 4411 for basically exactly what you described. I really like it.

I paid a bit more for it at my local crafts store (Joann's) because they have a basically unlimited return policy (i.e., I can return it at any time). I didn't know if I'd like it, so I bought it there, and having to ship a sewing machine back to Amazon or wherever seemed like a lot of hassle.

u/pmac124 · 2 pointsr/myog

A old singer 201 would be perfect, but the new industrial ones are good aswell.

u/Just__another__smith · 2 pointsr/myog

right now my alternative is this, interestingly enough, the 3/4 lbs is the best price, and 1.5lbs (24 oz) is just over what i need, maybe i can make a hat and/or booties.

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https://www.amazon.com/Bulk-Siberian-Goose-Filling-Power/dp/B0798CQBJ6/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9KMDKH7H9W6C7W181Z65

u/thriceintheory · 2 pointsr/myog

You could check fray check. It's like putting clear nail polish on a run in hose. It'll seal the raw edge like a glue. Especially for small bits after you've finished construction. https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-1674-Liquid-Sealant-0-75-Ounce/dp/B000YQKIDY

Another option that one could implement from the very beginning of the build process is to sew with a different kind of seam. A flat felled seam is cleaner and stronger. It takes a smidge more time, but once you get used to it, it's not so bad. A French seam is also an option without a raw edge, but I think it's more work than needed. http://sewdelicious.com.au/2012/09/different-types-of-seams.html

u/O_sew · 1 pointr/myog

I forget about patterns sometimes, thank you!

These are what I use. The rubber helps on slippery material.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3XNLDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ky.QCbR5NCTWT

u/cwcoleman · 3 pointsr/myog

I put together a simple Moulder Strip for my stove fuel canister. Check it out: https://imgur.com/a/6RSOnL6

A fun project to keep a isobutane canister running in cold weather. It transfers heat from the flame to the canister via copper strip.

Materials: