Best products from r/oculus

We found 1,579 comments on r/oculus discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 2,361 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/oculus:

u/Zaga932 · 5 pointsr/oculus

Heh, yeah VR is something else, isn't it \^^

First off, check out the new user guide, especially the section on VR sickness. Note that there's a bunch of stuff in there about the predecessor to Rift S, this guy, so if something makes no sense for your hardware, it's about that & you can just ignore it.

Rift S is fully compatible with SteamVR games, so you should look there as well (although the Oculus store has most of the high-quality games), but you should run those using OpenComposite, a very lightweight piece of software that replaces the SteamVR runtime, so you can run Steam's VR games directly against the Oculus runtime. Benefits of this.

The Oculus-funded & published exclusive games are some of the best around, here's an article on those, and another with upcoming games (one of the games there, Defector, is already available)

Lone Echo is my #1, full stop. It's the most immersive VR experience I've had, and the best implementation & expression of the VR medium to date. It can be a bit intense though, you do a lot of floating around which can trigger the oculu-vestibular conflict detailed in the VR sickness part of the New User Guide, which causes motion sickness. Sensitivity to this varies though, and roller coasters are quite intense, so you may be alright with that locomotion. I've seen people say that they're fine with the zero G-locomotion, because you mostly throw yourself around, so there's a direct "physical action > movement" correlation in your head.

Lone Echo has a multiplayer side-game as well though, Echo Arena, which is free, so you can try this and see if you can handle the locomotion. Echo Arena is also an incredible game, but it's very populated with highly skilled people, so you kinda need to git gud to enjoy it & not get your ass stomped. It also has a DLC that introduces an alternate game mode, Echo Combat, which is like a player-versus-player team-shooter in zero G. It's $10, and well worth it.

Pokerstars VR is free and can be a blast if you join a table with fun people.

Raccoon Lagoon is a new game that's absolutely delightful. Has plenty of comfort options to avoid VR sickness-inducing motion.

The Talos Principle VR is an excellent port of the popular puzzle game, available on Steam. It's $40 though, so you might want to try to snipe it on a sale. I got my copy super cheap a while back. It's the full game, so a good chunk of content.

I've read a lot of really good stuff about Blade & Sorcery, which is essentially a sandbox combat simulator with advanced physics & mechanics. As far as I understand it, the entire game is just whacking down waves of enemies, with the fun coming from the complex gameplay mechanics available. Another well-received game in the "whack the shit out of a bunch of enemies"-category is Gorn. This is more of a fleshed-out game.

Robo Recall is a classic as well.

Then there's Skyrim VR. Probably my 2nd favorite VR game after Lone Echo. It's the full game, with all DLCs, with almost all mods made for Skyrim Special Edition being compatible. There's a small but thriving community of VR modders as well, see /r/skyrimvr. Fallout 4 also got a VR port, but I know less about this other than it having pretty steep performance requirements & not being quite as good of a port as Skyrim.

Rec Room is a gem as well, a pretty big game at this point with a ton of stuff to do, and entirely free.

Superhot is a must-have. The "time moves when you do"-mechanic works really well in VR, and dodging bullets like you're Neo from The Matrix is kickass.

Arizona Sunshine is a really cool zombie shooter.

Minecraft Win10 edition is also available if that's your jam. You have to buy the Win10 edition from the Windows Store, then use that Oculus app to launch it in VR.

Windlands and Windlands 2 are really cool games, too. I haven't played the sequel yet, but it looks really good.

No Man's Sky is also receiving a huge update on Wednesday, which includes full VR support. It's currently on sale at Steam. If No Man's Sky makes you wrinkle your nose, give this a watch - both the game & the devs have come a long way since the launch fiasco.

Google search for an r/oculus-search for game recommendations, the same for r/virtualreality, r/oculus search that includes all past entries of the weekly "what have you been playing?"-thread

Also, you should try something: take the facial interface off your Rift S (7:49), then put the headset on and push the eye relief as far in as it goes without actually touching your eyeballs. Do you notice an improvement in field of view compared to having the face padding on? To make room for glasses, Oculus made the facial interface wider & deeper than the original version 1's interface, but they went a bit overboard. Some people find the default face interface puts their eyes too far from the lenses, even with the relief pushed all the way in, reducing FOV & optical clarity. If this is the case for you, bookmark this page and/or enter your e-mail into the notice sign-up there. VRCover sell replacement facial interfaces for all mainstream VR headsets, and they should launch replacements that are thinner than Rift S's default, which may improve the experience significantly for some people.

I've also heard these headphones work well with Rift S. They were built for Playstation VR, but they should fit Rift S as well.

I've read good things about these, although they're.. quite overpriced IMO.

This seems to be the best value gun stock around, which would be a worthwhile investment if you plan to play a lot of shooters (like Onward, Pavlov, Contractors).

That's.. all I can think of at the moment. Welcome to VR & enjoy! Oh right, did the focal length of the headset lenses work with your eyes, or did you have to use your glasses?

u/GodB0x1 · 1 pointr/oculus

Please for your own sake get a HOTAS. If you have vr and you are playing any flight sim without HOTAS please stop what you are doing and buy this now. You may even want to invest more money, but this is one of the better cheap HOTAS. Right now you are missing out on one of the single easiest ways to achieve a really amazing sense of presence in VR. For a lot of people the most compelling experiences in VR right now are Elite Dangerous, DCS, and or Warthunder. By getting a HOTAS you can see the true potential of these games and actually get a pretty cool experience of flying. You might even want to get the pedals. As far as being l33t in war-thunder most people play in 3rd person with the mouse and it's much easier, and can be a great way to learn some basics about flight and gaining position on people as well as grind some war-thunder currency. Despite the aim bot that is mouse aim in warthunder, at the lower level so much of the game is about positioning and using your aircraft's strengths that although being in VR is a handicap as long as you play smart, the enjoyment you will get out of it will be well worth it.

u/mikegriffin84 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here is a gift from me to you. I know you have the 3rd sensor but the rest of the information is good. This is my setup and what I recommend to friends and family. Check it out.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too. USB 3.0 is better than 2.0 because the cameras run at a higher resolution and fps thereby increasing tracking and with your USB add-on cards this will be the perfect setup.:

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success:

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft:

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless:

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.

I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

u/phoenixdigita1 · 6 pointsr/oculus

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else -

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

u/Talwyn_Wize · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are some things you could try out, if you haven't already.

  1. My most important point, choosing a "High/Ultimate Performance" or equivalent setting (use your best option) on your battery power. I shouldn't need to say this, but you get better performance with the powercable attached.

  2. Remember to deactivate USB selective suspend and do the same in your Device Manager, so that your computer doesn't hibernate or adjust USB power-settings. I know the OculusTrayTool does the same/similar, if you use it, but I've not been lucky enough to have that work when I need it to.

  3. Also, make sure you've removed as many USB-devices from your computer as possible. For example; external harddrives, mouse, keyboard, headset (if USB), even memory sticks, so that they don't draw power away from your USB channels. You might actually want some of these connected while you play, but try without first, to figure out whether or not it works. Your ports share channels, you see, so they are affected by each other.

  4. You probably don't want to go looking for further extension cables at this point, but I use these ones, and they work very well.

  5. Remember to update your USB drivers. Feel free to check your Asus website first, but Windows 10 might have new and better drivers, or the manufacturer of the chip could have even newer. There are ways to discover the manufacturer's name and model of your USB device in Device Manager, if you know where to look. Google it. ;) Mind you, keep your Asus drivers ready as backup, because the computer might not "officially" support it, though it's easy to roll back drivers. After driver-update, you might have to repeat option [2].

  6. If you have software that controls USB-ports to an extent (like apps looking for USB devices), disabling them could help, but you need to restart and ensure they don't start automatically again. There're some split opinions out there on whether or not it helps, but I'm including it just in case.

    I advise you to restart your computer after you've done your adjustments and connected your Rift, so that the computer will prioritize the USB power-draw correctly on startup.

    Chances are you've tried these options already, but if not, give them a try. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other alternatives. The VR-tests I can find of your laptop seem to have been done without extensions. Feel free to contact Asus support - they might have some recommendations, as I doubt you'll be the first with the issue.

    Good luck!

u/RnRpax · 14 pointsr/oculus

Tons of threads like this, so take some time to browse this sub. Also a lot of good info in this sub's wiki In either case here's my quick and dirty off the top of my head in no particular order/level of detail, also some things are just my subjective opinion:

  • Take the time to get the HMD situated comfortably on your head. Shouldn't be pressed against your face so hard that it leaves an impression. Back part should be cupping lower back part of your head.
  • Configure your IPD as best you can.
  • If you start to feel motion sick or have a headache / eye strain DON'T push through it. Stop and take as long a break as necessary to get back to normal. You may have to start your VR journey in smaller doses until you (hopefully) build up a tolerance.
  • Since you've never experienced it, don't be put off by the resolution of the Rift. Things like the screendoor effect and god rays you start to lose awareness of the more you use it (especially if you really get immersed in a game).
  • You'll have 2 sensors with your current bundle. I don't know the size of your room but I would suggest placing them in opposite corners (diagonally) of your playspace. Preferably high up and angled down towards you. Read Oculus blog on the matter
  • Tied to the above, some people do just fine with 2 sensors (what you'll have out of the box) for 360/roomscale tracking. I went this route for some time and felt it was just fine (not perfect though). Try it out and if you feel you need more stable tracking, look into buying a 3rd sensor.
  • Hopefully you have no USB bandwidth issues, but if you do, take the time to read through the Oculus blog 1 and Oculus blog 2 posts on the matter. I am one of the unfortunate folks who had USB bandwidth issues on mutiple motherboards and this was, to me, the shittiest aspect of the Rift experience. Once I worked through it (read, bought this card) I was good.
  • You've got several free games alongside the ones you mentioned. Take the time to experience them all. In addition I recommend Super Hot, Budget Cuts demo (Steam), Rec Room (social/multiplayer).

    Everyone's experience varies. If its smooth sailing for you then awesome. If you run into problems, don't stress and take the time to search on this sub for answers. VR is amazing, hope you enjoy it.
u/Chemosh013 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Here is another picture of the sensor itself:

Here is the gear that I used:

Light Stands ( - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).

Mini Ball Heads ( - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.

USB Cables ( - 10 ft, - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.

Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).

Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.

u/abcteryx · 1 pointr/oculus

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

u/noorbeast · 3 pointsr/oculus

Both the Rift and Vive have their pros and cons, I have both and here is my cut and paste summary of just some of the comparative factors people may consider, as the topic has already been done to death:

The standard 2 forward facing camera Touch tracking has some FOV and distance related Touch occlusion, so a 3rd camera really is recommended for genuine roomscale.

The official Oculus experimental guide for 2 camera 360 degree tracking is here:

The recommended Oculus play area for diagonally opposed 360 tracking use is only 1.5M x 1.5M, with the cameras 2M apart.

To put that into some comparative context HTC recommends 2M x 1.5M as the minimum for the Vive 2 base station room-scale setup, with 3.55M x 3.55M being the recommended. People such as myself have tested Lighthouse out to nearly 10M, though that is pushing the envelope given how Lighthouse operates, see here for details:

The standard Rift HMD cable length is also a limiting factor for large roomscale use. By comparison my Vive tracked volume is 8Mx4M and the included HMD cable lets you take advantage of that space with a computer located halfway down the long side.

Some are reporting that hardware/cable issues can affect Touch tracking:

It took me a lot of fiddling to work out which USB ports gave the best results with my Rift, and still be able to use all the peripherals that go with my 3DOf compact motion simulator. I have yet to resolve all my Rift USB issues, with some visual jumps and persistent disconnects after a random period of time. A new Inateck card, as recommended by Oculus, is on its way (note some are still reporting issues, even with the recommended card):

Here is a list of additional hardware and cables that may been needed for full Oculus roomscale:

For Sensors:

1x Additional Sensor:
2x Monoprice 15-Feet USB 2.0 Extension:
2x Security Wall Mount- Adjustable Indoor/Outdoor Mount:
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card:

For HMD:

Cable Matters High Speed HDMI 10-Feet Extension Cable:
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Feet Extension Cable:

Touch does a pretty good job at simulating hands in VR. The Vive wands are great as things like guns and swords, both have their place. The Vive has a number of upgrades and peripherals due for release in Q2, including an ergonomic deluxe audio headstrap, trackers to bring any peripheral or real world object into VR, wireless HMD kit and finger tracked gloves.

I do a lot of public demos and to be honest the rift is far more problematic with cable management, USB related issues and setup time/issues, in comparison I can set up the Vive at schools and NGO offices in 15 minutes or less, including booting the computer and running the calibration setup.

In terms of other factors the world scale of the Rift is slightly larger in things like Longbow, which actually makes hitting things easier.

The Rift has less screen door effect but the god rays are significantly worse.

The Vive sweet spot is not as large or sharp.

The stereo overlap in the Rift is more noticeable.

The Rift has quality built in headphones and microphone, while the Vive has a built in camera but a poorer microphone.

The Vive has cutouts in the foam and accommodates glasses better.

Cost comparisons need to take in applicable shipping and taxes, the possible need for additional tracking cameras, compatible usb hardware, usb and hdmi cable extensions, upgraded headstraps, peripherals and trackers.

Oculus has ATS and ASW, SteamVR has ATW-reprojection but also allows Oculus ATS/ASW via the Oculus SDK:

I have had the odd crash on Steam, but it is pretty rare, I have had far more significant issues with things like processing a refund via Oculus Help, which then bricked Medium and that took a week to sort out. So I think it fair to say both store fronts have their features, limitations and problems.

Other extraneous factors to take into account include business practices, your room space and game play preferences, the shape of your head or any eyesight issues.

Personally I have found there is less difference between the HMDs than there is between individual users, based on having done thousands of public demos. So try them both and pick whichever is the best for you.

u/The_DestroyerKSP · 2 pointsr/oculus

So, I've tried the following:



-Single joystick

-Dual joystick

My thoughts:

KB/M: Totally doable. If you can touch type, you can probably use it in VR. Can vary. KB/M is viable due to huge amount of buttons, as well as precision with a mouse, good for fixed weaponary. (though the low res of VR does hurt trying to aim at far-away things)

X360: It works, but I'm not a huge fan of it. Easier to use in VR than KB/M, and juuust enough buttons to do... most things.

Single joystick: (T16000m): While a joystick is the optimal way to play, (and fairly cheap, $50), the huge amount of buttons in Elite can make it difficult. The newer T16000m (orange color) does feature bumps on the buttons instead of smooth, so it's easier in VR. Still, not ideal.

Dual joystick: (T16000m + logitech attack 3) My current preferred way. Moderate price (maybe $100, one cheap one for left stick, t16000m in right), but a lot of axis movement for all motion, as well as a good amount of buttons without having to resort to buttons on the base of the controller. Only problem is main thrust, as I use my left joystick for lateral thrusters. Holding two joysticks is quite fun though.

While I haven't tried it...

HOTAS is generally considired the way to go. Most throttles come with a hat switch, which gives you control of lateral thrusters. Can be as cheap as $50 Or something more high quality for $100

TL;DR Mouse and keyboard is great if you can touch type, X-360 controller works fine but you might not get all the buttons mapped, joystick is ideal, but only if paired with keyboard/throttle/another joystick

u/smithenheimer · 2 pointsr/oculus

I'm using these....



Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

u/TalkingRaccoon · 8 pointsr/oculus

I got a Rift S a few months ago and these additions were a must imo:

  1. Hand straps to make them like knuckles controllers. You don't have to be constantly gripping your controller which is nice for long play periods. I have wrist problems so any help is good. but just being able to "let go" of stuff is excellent for immersion. I got the Mamut ones, and really like them. There's these Kiwi too which are cheaper.

  2. I primarily play beat saber so vr cover is a must so the foam doesn't get super gross. Also I got a workout headband or else sweat will get all in your eyes

  3. And since i value sound for Beatsaber, the built in speakers just don't cut it (missing bass) so I got these clip on headphones originally made for PSVR. They will clip on just fine to the Rift S halo. They sound fine. Maybe $40 was a bit much. If you're a tinkerer look up the Koss headphones mod. They're like $12 it looks like. And there's 3d printed things to clip the Koss to the halo strap.
u/apollo_316 · 2 pointsr/oculus

OP and all affected by this: I also ran into this after the latest update. It clearly introduced some bugs. That said, here is everything I did, and I'm finally playing Beat Saber on my Rift with 0 (read again, 0) lag. (That said, there is certainly still a bug where if a box is hit the wrong direction, or with the wrong saber color, sometimes the controller does not vibrate)

I am listing below WHAT WORKED, and leaving out all the things I tried that didn't's an exhausting list..cables, reseating the rift headset jack under the face mask..etc. This did not help me. Rift worked great in every other game.

  • Purchased an external USB 3 card to give the Rift headset ( I ordered the one with the two internal USB ports too. Note: USB add-in card is not needed if your system already has enough USB channels to give the Rift and each sensor its own channel. Google USB channels for instructions on finding this out. ((If you have your controllers vibrating very lightly and you are using good batteries, THIS. This is why. You need a USB channel with nothing else on it for the Rift Headset. The Rift Sensors should each be on their own channels for best performance too, but can share the USB channel with other devices too.))
  • Turned off Night Light in Windows 10 Display settings. My problems manifested more at night and this, once known, was a very likely culprit
  • Placed each Rift Sensor on its own USB channel. I also unplug the mouse/keyboard and other peripherals during VR, because I have a Steelseries LED mouse/kb and they bugger up the USB channel with all the lighting.
  • Close out any unnecessary apps from the system tray.
  • If you use a USB extension to get a Rift sensor further away, make sure it's an ACTIVE USB extender. Passive, or normal, ones degraded my signal. This, and the Win10 Night Light are the biggest reasons I was getting Beat Saber lag. I have an Active cable on order and went back to no extension/both sensors in front of me for the time being.
  • Installed Oculus Tray Tool ( and set USB Standby to Disabled, among some other settings I can't recall. All the settings have to do with fine-tuning the VR experience, so poke around and see what works for you.
  • ***Disclaimer***: Editing the registry is NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART*** I changed the priority of the GPU for games using this guide. I've had no problems at all, but the registry is risky to mess with and I am unsure what effect this had with Beat Saber. I'm listing it only because Beat Saber runs perfectly now.Skip to the "Make some changes in your registry" section:

    Doing all of this, the noteworthy ones being Windows 10 Night Light being turned off, the USB add-in card/dedicated channel for the Rift headset USB, and the Oculus Tray Tool, my Beat Saber now runs flawlessly!! I moved up from Hard to Expert (and even Expert with Fast Song turned on) overnight purely as a result of this game running like it should now. I can actually hit what I see, and the game registers it.


    Computer Setup:

  • Oculus Rift with 2 sensors (3rd sensor with USB active repeater/extension cable in the mail)
  • MSI MoBo with AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 8-Core 3.4 GHz
  • 16gb DDR3 RAM
  • MSI Gaming Z 2070 RTX GPU
  • Samsung 1tb SSD running only Oculus Games
  • SanDisk 128gb SSD for Windows 10 installation
  • Liquid cooler for CPU
  • 850w Power Supply

    My specs are overkill for VR and Rift (see: Robo Recall) worked fine with my MSI Nvidia 970 GPU too, but Beat Saber still lagged (after the latest update) until I made all the changes above. Beat Saber clearly has some bugs/compatibility problems to work out, and it seems the devs have more important things to do than fix these given how long it is between updates being released for PC. We're a forgotten lot. :( Perhaps the modding community will find a way to patch the game to actually fix these bugs.


    I do hope that my tips help even one person out there also experiencing this issue. This game is what VR was for! If anybody has more tips please please please share them! Everybody should be able to enjoy this game as it was supposed to be!


    edit: Corrected CPU specs in my Computer Setup
u/ElectroPulse · 5 pointsr/oculus

It's this. It was recommended on this page. I wanted to be absolutely certain I got flawless tracking, so opted for a dedicated USB 3.0 controller for each port, so there wasn't any chance of running into a bandwidth limitation. Also wanted all three of the sensors to be running at USB 3.0, whereas they recommend plugging one of the three into USB 2.0 otherwise (again, due to bandwidth limitations under one controller).

I don't doubt you could have a flawless experience without it, but I wanted to make damn well certain that it would be plug-and-play goodness from the start, given my history of building up expectations and ultimately being disappointed.

EDIT: Forgot to answer your last question. It was actually just the "First Contact" demo thing that you start out with the learn the controls. This the realism and accuracy of the controls, and interacting with the environment in such a natural manner was just amazing. I went and played through it again this evening. The other games I've tried (SuperHot and RoboRecall are really, really good as well, it's just that was the first one, and the environmental interaction is really cool).

u/rundmcarlson · 2 pointsr/oculus

Go get a cheap hotas. You can get a cheap one for like 50 bucks on ebay and its orders of magnitude easier to control the ships and play the game. That being said, I have a few hundred hours in, and although I had fun working my way up in rank and power, after I had upgraded everything with engineers the game got hollow for me and I stopped playing. I had plenty of enjoyment from the game, certainly enough to recommend it, but ultimately I did drop it. Still worth the money spent on the hotas.

I got one of these at first, then gave it to a sibling and bought a better one. Both were perfectly good, my sibling just happened to get into the game and I figured Id upgrade since the opportunity presented itself.

u/Klownicle · 3 pointsr/oculus

I purchased;
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

u/Zetaphor · 4 pointsr/oculus

Yes, that should be enough room, though more is always better. Get rid of your furniture! That TV is going to get punched if you're not careful.

Seriously though, that is an adequate amount of space. Here is the official guide for setting up the best possible roomscale experience.

Your 3 sensors are going to be setup similar to how you have them now, with the third being directly across from one of the current two, like an L shape.

Throw down a small rug or mat in the middle of your playspace, this helps to keep you centered so you have a more tactile sense of where you are in the room (in high intensity situations, Guardian is not enough).

Consider looking into overhead cabling, it's around $20 and is super simple to setup. Additionally look into wall mounts for the sensors. 3M strips are your friend.

Check out Sensor Bounds to help maximize your sensor coverage. Check out Cable Guardian to help prevent cable wear (basically required if you use overhead cable routing)

Lastly, try out EchoVR once you have all of this setup.

u/Geos13 · 6 pointsr/oculus

Star Citizen and Elite Dangerous currently support the Rift in their pre release versions and presumably will continue to do so. Valkyrie is being made specifically for VR and cannot be played without a HMD so yes. NMS is rumored to be adding Rift support based on a few minor hints but nothing is confirmed. Everyone who has played any of the space sims seem to agree they are far superior with a flight stick.

Edit: And I'm pretty sure most people are recommending the Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X Flight Stick
as the best bang for your buck entry level stick but I do not have personal experience with it

u/Freeznips · 2 pointsr/oculus

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

u/ShatteredStrife · 1 pointr/oculus

Wow, I've never had something like that happen.

All of my sensors are on extension cables. Two are USB 3, and one is USB 2. All are plugged into the recommended Inatek USB controller card (

The USB 2 sensor gave me some detected/not detected issues, since the extension cable is pretty long. That cleared up when I plugged it into a powered hub, purely acting as a power booster, like I mention doing for the headset today in the original post. The sensor is just using a much cheaper USB 2 hub, though.

If you're using extensions, and you were careful to buy ones that people have had success with in the past, then I'd highly suspect a power delivery issue.

Good luck, and I'm glad to have given you some ideas. I hope they pan out! Let me know if I can answer any questions.

u/Joimz · 2 pointsr/oculus

I recently picked up the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS to replace my Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS X. I would recommend the T.16000M setup over the T-Flight mostly because the throttle and stick are completely separate, which is easy to appreciate when you've fumbled around with the T-Flight's awkward design when it's separated. The T.16000M also feels a bit more robust and having more buttons/options on the throttle (especially in VR) is a huge plus. All that being said, I spent a lot of hours in Elite with the T-Flight and you can't really go wrong with it. I fondly recall the shit eating grin I had on my face the first time I throttled up and instantly felt more 'connected' with my ship. Cheers.

u/whitedragon101 · 13 pointsr/oculus

I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :

I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.


Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).

MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22

(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this

CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12

Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4

——Sort of Worked——

Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7

Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)

Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports

Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11

Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.

——Didn’t work——

Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7

detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card

u/battlestartriton · 1 pointr/oculus

I have my rift extended by 25 feet with no issues. (Room scale) I have a ASUS 1080 close to your ASUS 1070.

You must have active cables. Regular HDMI cables are horrible at carrying a signal that requires a certain level of power through it.

Don't use a DVI to HDMI dongle. You need to give the rift a HDMI native port. Move your monitors around or buy DisplayPort to hdmi cables for your monitors if needed.

My connection is as followed:

Video card -> active hdmi cable -> hdmi booster -> rift (rift plugs into HDMI booster)

Active USB MUST be plugged into motherboard or pci card USB and NOT USB hubs. I've had nothing but issues with a few hubs.

Here's my setup


Cable Matters Active 4K HDMI Cable with RedMere Technology (ARC and Ethernet Support) - 25 Feet

I also use an HDMI repeater which helps boost the signal

J-Tech Digital HDMI 2.0 Repeater Coupler Extender Signal Booster Support 1080P, 4Kx2K@60HZ HDCP EDID Bandwidth up to 18Gbps

Here's my USB cable

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet

Hope that helps! I have ZERO latency issues and no disconnection problems. I play a lot of echo arena.

u/Azirphaeli · 1 pointr/oculus

I also have a 908ti TI and lets talk about the money i've burned trying to get the cable extended at all:

  • Works fine with no HDMI extensions, even if using a USB extension.
  • Any length extension plugged into HDMI causes problems.
  • A 3ft extension is "playable" but occasionally the screen will flash white TV static snow. It's annoying.. but not the end of the world.
  • A longer extension is a black screen.. period. Sometimes you get an image for a bit but then it's black. Yay..
  • Decided to switch to display port using an adapter, same shit.

    So I got a HDMI -> DVI:

  • WORKS except.. occasional random pixels will turn white for a frame, creating this "magical sparkly effect."
  • The shorter the extension, the less frequent and less numerous sparklies.
  • Since this is only visible in dark scenes and even when it is.. is less distracting then the whole screen turning into static for a few frames I am leaving it like this for now.

    "So you are all in on the sparklies then?" No actually, I just ordered this:

    Per the top comment, and when it shows up I'll test this out on both DVI and HDMI ports and see what happens. Hopefully I can finally truly enjoy roomscale/standing VR without the wire being too short and the screen being wonky due to extenders.

    Then.. Oculus can fix the tracking issues, and it'll be perfect. Not saying I am not enjoying the rift, i rate it at 97% perfect enjoyment, just trying to coax that last three percent out.
u/ca1ibos · 1 pointr/oculus

ahahahahaha !!

Joking aside though. Certainly when talking about Rift, its not necessarily the number of ports that is the most important consideration but the number of USB controllers. Doesn't matter of you have 6x USB 3.0 ports and 6x USB 2.0 ports if your motherboard has only 1x USB 3.0 controller and 1x USB 2.0 Controller.

My Thrustmaster 16000 FCS HOTAS takes 2x USB 2.0

My Logitech G920 Wheel and Pedals take 1x USB 2.0

My 4x Rift Sensors take 4x USB 3.0

My Corsair Void Wireless Headset takes 1x USB 2.0

My XBOX controller takes 1x USB 2.0

My Blue Snowball Mic takes 1x USB 2.0

My Keyboard and Mouse take 2x USB 2.0

My Flirc IR sensor for Harmony Ultimate One Remote takes 1x USB 2.0

Thats 13 !!

My Asus Z170-A mobo has 2x USB 2.0 ports, 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 3.1 port but only 1x USB 2.0 Controller, 1x USB 3.0 controller and 1x USB 3.1 controller.

Hence why I am also rocking a dedicated Startech 4x Controller 4x USB 3.0 Port PCIe card just for my 4x Rift Sensors and a random 3x USB 2.0 PCIe card dedicated to my HOTAS and Wheel/Pedal Set. Rift is on my Motherboards USB 3.1 port and the rest of the peripherals on the other motherboard ports.

I also have a front 3.25"/5.25" Bay box with Card Readers, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, HDMI and USB charging ports that are connected to the internal USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 Motherboard Headers. This was great for connecting the HOTAS and Wheel/Pedal set and the Rift to the PC at the front of the PC instead of blindly swapping them in and out around the back but has largely been rendered defunct now that I permanently ran some extension cables for the Rift and HOTAS/Wheel/Pedals from the back ports of the PC to elsewhere in the room. Still us the card readers and the USB charging ports for my eCig and Corsair Void Wireless Headset though.

imgur Album of PC Peripherals and Room

u/Barksie · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management:

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) -

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) -


Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good -

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) -


Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues -


Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me -

u/Reddituser703 · 1 pointr/oculus

Pretty good review of the S. I do agree with Jeremy regarding the sound and I'm still hopeful Oculus will release an addon headphones accessory. In the meantime I have ordered these Koss headphones: Koss KSC75 Portable Stereophone Headphones


I'm still looking forward to getting my S on the 21st. The optics, eye glasses friendliness, improved comfort, and simplified tracking process are big wins for me.

u/glitchvern · 2 pointsr/oculus

Inateck (or anything else with a FrescoLogic 1100 chipset, but the Inateck is the most readily available) is the Oculus recommended PCIe card for adding USB 3 ports. You can buy them on amazon. They have a few different variants. Inateck also sell some cards using the NEC D720201 chipset. Don't get those. Any of their cards with model numbers beginning with KTU3FR are good. If you want the one with the most usb ports, you want the KTU3FR-502I or KTU3FR-502U. The 5O2I is 5 usb ports on the back with a usb header like on your motherboard to connect 2 more to a case. The 502U has 5 usb ports on the back and 2 usb ports on the inside which I guess you could route the cables out of your case if it has cable holes.

I know people have mentioned what extension cables they have used successfully on this reddit, but it doesn't look like it has been documented on this reddit's wiki. I think it has been mentioned it is pretty hit or miss even when you buy ones other people have used successfully.

u/db8cn · 1 pointr/oculus

Get this set

Great seller and great product. Sure, you could homebrew your own solution with dog leashes and ID badges but it will be more expensive with a marginally better benefit (if any). It comes with both anchors and adhesive pads. I have a popcorn/textured ceiling so I opted for the drywall anchors in the ceiling and they’ve worked beautifully despite the unconventional setup I have where I play VR.

u/VRiftist · 1 pointr/oculus

You can spend $90 on a Hotas and Wheel. They don't have to be top of the line to greatly increase immersion. Sure. I'm like to have $500 to spend on two input devices. But, until I will the lottery I will take 80% improvement I can afford over 100% improvement I can't afford. When your ship comes in you can sell them on Ebay for $60 and you are only out $20-30 for greatly improved immersion and control. The reviews on the Hotas are outstanding. The wheel is pretty weak (though taking out negative reviews from people who didn't understand you get what you pay for they are pretty good.) But, I guarantee that wheel is streets ahead of an XBOX controller.

u/ruinedxistenz · 11 pointsr/oculus

Rift S is a nice pickup and the natural progression looking to move up from PSVR. Your PC specs are great for VR, and it will be a massive improvement from PSVR in all areas.

You may want to consider a RiftS-dedicated pci-e usb3 card for your PC to ensure optimal bandwidth and power is delivered to the Rift S such as below; this will improve performance and reliability. Most motherboard chipsets are not up to the task in this regard, so it's a great $20 investment many overlook. The one linked is known to be one of the best performers for Rift S. Note if you do get this don't install the inateck drivers, just use the Microsoft ones that auto load after installation:

u/iamgreenbag · 1 pointr/oculus

I have 4 sensors, each mounted on top of 7'6" DIY stands made out of cheap 5'9" Ikea floor lamps..2 lamps per stand, each in it's own corner. The 8' long stock cables of the sensors only have a few inches worth left over when mounted on the stands, so extensions are a must no matter where you position them. I use the 'Monoprice 15-Feet USB 3.0 Extension Cables' from Amazon, with the sensor in the far corner needing 2 cables to reach the stand. This gives me a 10'x10' area, with an actual playspace of 7'x7'. I also shelled out for a Startech 4 port USB3.0 PCI card recommended on the Oculus blog. The sensors on USB3.0 use a lot of power, so you'll need to connect either a SATA power adapter or a molex power adapter to the PCI card...if you go that route. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, completely glitch free. I used the Sensor Bounds app in Oculus to make sure the sensor beams covered my play area high enough, as well as covering the corners closest to the stands. The beams aren't 90 degrees, so the higher the top of the beam, the less the corner gets covered by the lower part of the beam. It takes a few minutes, but it helps to completely cover the entire play area.


Btw...the best part of my DIY stands...they only take up 10" squared. Tripods are at least 2' squared. I considered microphone stands, but they only extend 5' or so. Nowhere near tall enough.


u/Soryosan · 15 pointsr/oculus

so these drivers used in these earbuds are what they recon could be what the cv1 comes with... cheap but good specs!

The KSC75s feature dynamic elements for a wide frequency response from 15-25,000 Hz. A two-millimeter titanium diaphragm coating increases rigidity, which means less distortion and therefore more accurate sound reproduction. Neodymium magnets help deliver greater volume, even with low-voltage portable devices, and oxygen-free copper voice coils improve signal transmission and conduction for cleaner, clearer sound.

Frequency Response: 15-25,000 Hz
Impedance: 60 ohms
Sensitivity: 101 dB SPL/1mW
Distortion: Less Than 0.2%

i had no idea you could get such good earbuds for that price

u/Heaney555 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Yeah on top of (or on the top shelf of) that bookcase seems like the perfect place.

Having them at the exact same height doesn't really matter at all. The important thing is just to have them:

u/sinoth · 1 pointr/oculus

Personally I have the T-Flight Hotas X: Amazon link

Looks like they are out of stock right now (probably due to Elite and Star Citizen!) but I got mine for $45. It is a fantastic value and works extremely well. Nice tacky rubber nubs on the bottom to stick to a flat surface, and the units have a wide enough base to be fairly stable.

u/Ajedi32 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Annoying yes, but seems like that'll be pretty easy to fix with an accessory if it really bothers you:

The bigger concern for me is tracking occlusion, as I play a lot of Echo Arena (which should be pretty much the worst-case scenario for inside-out tracking). If it turns out that tracking is "good enough" even for Echo Arena or if Oculus adds an option for outside-in then I'll be seriously considering the Rift S.

u/FearTheTaswegian · 2 pointsr/oculus

A good point. If I were buying a PCIe USB card I'd probably get the 4 port Startech.

There are cheaper options but the difference isn't that much in the grand scheme of things and I'd rather have the best solution

Independent channels per port so no bandwidth sharing, and supplemental power.

My mobo has 3 independent USB controllers already so it's non issue for me fortunately

u/Crowster · 3 pointsr/oculus

I fixed a majority of my issues by installing one of these into a PCIE x16 slot, and plugging all three of my sensors, as well as the rift itself, into it. It's a bit pricey, but it did the trick beautifully.

Still get the sensor jump when turning around. I haven't noticed any significant change to my guardian location or my height, but those still may decide to plague me.

Previously everything was plugged into my motherboard (all 3.0) and worked, more or less, perfectly until the patch. Don't know why it worked before when, honestly, I should have been taxing my USB controller, or why the patch broke it, but the above card has made things great.

u/DeletedAllMyAccounts · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have a 4-port PCIe card with 4 dedicated 5Gbps channels specifically because I was previously using the recommended Inatek card and it was an utter nightmare.

Everything but the headset itself is plugged into the card, as I've found that's the best possible configuration. It's still finicky, but much, much better than it was. (I was in BSOD hell /w the Inatek card) I'm convinced that there is no truly "perfect and stable" way to set up 3+ sensors, (from the perspective of the Oculus setup tool, that is) though, as I have tried many configurations and they're all a little wacky during setup even though they work well during gameplay.

It doesn't seem to be an issue with USB, it's just that the three cameras have trouble seeing my Touch controller for the entire duration of the trigger-hold simultaneously. It's extremely annoying, but it seems pretty clear that it's just a flaw in the setup process because the whole system works like a dream once I get it configured.

I'm open to suggestions if it means not having to hold my touch controller behind my head like an dumbass 20 times in a row every time I want to adjust my sensor positions though.

u/Larry_Mudd · 2 pointsr/oculus

These things! Designed for the PSVR headset, but they fit the Rift S halo fine.

I think they're worth it - makes the Rift S "almost as good" as OG Rift, audio wise. They touch my ears more than the CV1 headphones did, which annoyed me at first but doesn't bother me any more. I think the sound quality on the Rift was maybe a bit better, too, but it's hard to say as it had been boxed up for a month before I started using these. For sure night and day compared with the Rift S' built-in audio, though.

They cost less than half of that in the U.S. so a better value if you happen to be on that side of the border.

u/thebaumsquad · 0 pointsr/oculus

It is this card:

But if you look on the link that OP posted, it's showing up there in the 4th row with a "Starts for Prime members at 8:55AM". You can also click there to "Watch this deal" and it will ping your phone if you are logged into the Amazon App. That's key to get in on the good "upcoming" prime deals. Otherwise there are too many to keep track of! I doubt this type of device will sell out. Although there are a lot of new Rift owners coming on with this new $400 combo deal, so maybe there will be a rush. :) I have a similar card but not this particular model for my 3 camera rig in my older computer with no USB3. Works great for 2 of the cameras, though for some reason it still tells me I should check for newer drivers though the Win 10 built in drivers are supposedly the best. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

u/crazy_goat · 3 pointsr/oculus

Order some wall mounts (generic tripod thread - tons of amazon) - a USB 3.0 Extension cable for each sensor (5M Cable Matters active model for $16 works great) and you'll be good. This will allow you to mount your two sensors in opposing corners for Roomscale tracking - provided your room is of adequate size.

You can extend the rift's own cable(s) with a 6ft HDMI extension cable, and 6ft passive USB 3.0 extension cable. Anything beyond that will likely give you problems. Get some velcro straps to tie both of those extensions together and it'll double as a breakaway cable were you to tug on it too hard.

Maybe consider grabbing an add-in PCI-E USB 3.0 card. I ordered this USB 3.1 card for $35 because USB 3.1 controllers can handle 10Gbps of throughput, which theoretically means both of these ports should be able to run at the full 5Gbps 3.0 mode, so it could handle both sensors with ease.The amazon reviews have some Rift users implying it works great.

Also - you'll get Robo Recall for free, it's a great action game to get started in. It'll set the bar pretty high for you - but it's a very comfortable (and often intense!) experience.

u/OculusSupport · 5 pointsr/oculus

Hi and sorry about that. If possible, you may want to purchase this specific USB add-on card, which has been confirmed to be compatible by Oculus. In addition, it sounds like it could be a USB power management issue. If that is the case, unchecking "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in the Device Manager Power Management settings for your USB Hub could help. Finally an external powered USB hub could help, though you don't want too many USB devices on one hub due to bandwidth limitations. For additional assistance, please submit a support ticket. Thanks.

u/sexysausage · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have three sensors now. Only one has an extension ( and I didn't use the usb2.0 cable provided by oculus, instead I used the one I bought for my two sensor experimental setup, that's an active usb3.0 )

this one: CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

  • the single usb 3.1 is connected to a sensor with a 16ft usb3.0 active cable extension. ( the one I linked )

    • . the four usb 3.0 from top to bottom as follows:

  • top left keyboard
  • top right mouse

  • bottom left is the Rift headset usb 3.0

  • bottom right is a sensor usb 3.0 without extension
    • front panel two usb 3.0

      left usb 3.0 is a sensor without extension
  • right usb 3.0 is free and unused.

    I have a 650w power suply, a i7 processor and a 1080ti, and 16 gig or ram, dunno if it makes any difference
u/LostHisDog · 1 pointr/oculus

That sucks. The kind of generic answer is to try a 3rd party PCIe card.

USB 3 is supposed to provide 900ma to the port but some motherboard share the power or just skimp out entirely.

I'd talk to support first though to make sure all your drivers and firmware have the most recent updates.

Good luck.

u/Ditchmag · 3 pointsr/oculus

I ordered this 3d printed mount from Jorg the elder and am using portapros, but you could also use the KSC75 (I have both and the sound is nearly the same). It's supposed to be the same drivers that the og rift used.

This works and sounds GREAT! You can adjust the headphones to just hover on your ears, offset, or press on them. I ordered them in black so they look pretty good too. Ask me anything if you have questions.

$20 -

$15 - Koss KSC75 Portable Stereophone Headphones

$17 - (black version)

u/Oneeyedpirate1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

i was having a similar issue but if i were you i would think about just getting this reason being at least you know you are sorted day one.. nobody wants to get their rift open it up have problems and have to wait another 6 to 10 days for some other delivery and you could just leave these 4 ports just for your rift and have many more usb ports for future use... besides the price is worth insuring you wont be screwed when the guy delivers your rift some morning.. good luck and happy rifting pal :)

u/NomaD5 · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

u/Scoutdad · 2 pointsr/oculus

For cable management, I use this one and like it a lot. The o rings in a prusik knot are great for gently griping the cable but the small hooks for the rings are not great for taking it down for seated games. I added cheap carabiners to make it real easy. Some systems just loop the cable trough a carabiner and that is not ideal but the combo of the two is perfect. So that one you are looking at would be fine just picking up some 2” diameter o-rings.

For my space, I have the cable run up the wall and across the ceiling using cable clips then near center room start using the badge holders. I use three towards opposite wall, then about 18” from wall loop back towards center of playspace using 2 more and stopping about 18” before center so cable is behind my head. Think a “J” configuration.

Works for me but you may need to modify based on your space.

Get Cable Guardian for rotation management so you don’t twist up your cable. Just search this sub for it.

I just use a 3M Command hooks on the wall for my HMD and controllers, works for me as there is no chance for knocking the HMD over. But if on the shelf works best for you that stand should work or just use a shoebox.

u/yellowspacealien · 1 pointr/oculus

Been playing with 2 sensor 360 tracking on the 2m x 1.5m and has been working good enough for me. Tracking is not perfect obviously as there is a "seam" that will cause a "shift" on the touch controller potentially due to what seems to be a software calibration type of issue. Not a game breaker for me as you just have to be aware of it and adjust accordingly so I am not in between it like when I play Arizona Sunshine and aiming the gun.

My setup uses the 2 support rods diagonally from each with the sensors attach to clamps and up about 6 feet high at about 45 degree angle downward linked to active USB3.0 extension cable. I think your mileage will vary how you setup but here's the list of the setup:

Also you should use Desk Scene to make sure the sensors truly cover your play space:

u/AWE5OMO4000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready

u/Niq22 · 1 pointr/oculus

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought: (HDMI Extender) (USB 3.0 Extender) (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg) (USB 3.0 Controller)

u/masher23 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Did you consider the Koss KSC 75 ? There are 3d printable attachments available. Search for it. I bought these because people kept recommending them and I find them pretty nice. I use them as is, without mounting them to the HMD. The look and build quality leaves something to be desired, but they sound really good and are surprisingly comfortable to wear.

u/maxcovergold · 3 pointsr/oculus

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.

What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:

Startech PEXUSB3S44V

Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.

For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.

To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

u/Hevdelurn · 2 pointsr/oculus

The only two issues I've had so far is the inability to use forward and back rcs and that roll/yaw are mapped to the same stick. I'm dealing with it for now though, because I'm getting a flightstick in the mail pretty soon.

A friend recommended me this:

It seems pretty perfect for a couple reasons:

  1. The first is price, it's pretty cheap and does what you need it to do.
  2. Fewer buttons than you'd find on a more expensive stick. Which is good when you're wearing a Rift, no fumbling around with controls.

    I plan to map the RCS thrusters to the buttons on the throttle, the arrows on the side will be up, down, forward, back, and the rocker buttons on the throttle will be left, right.
u/Coppermine64 · 3 pointsr/oculus

HOTAS just makes it complete. It's cheap I know, but I use the Thrustmaster T HOTAS. It is excellent, and I've seen it for as little as £30
EDIT: Great deal here for anyone else interested.

u/jsdeprey · 1 pointr/oculus

I agree with this, I do miss my CV1 audio, not sure how the decided this audio was OK, did they listen to any music at all on it? But the was it sits on my face is great, I did have issues when moving around a lot, like in Beat Saber when you have to dunk under stuff, etc... But if you crank the knob down some it seems fine and at least all that pressure is not on my face. The screen is great, I knew it would be because I loved my Go's screen and knew it would be so much better on the Rift-S with better render targets. I have no real tracking issues, it is better so far than my CV1 with 3 sensors honestly.

I have seen people with some headphones kind of like these, but were bigger and maybe better.

Not sure what they were though.

u/bushmaster2000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ceiling height is best as it'll give the tracking cone that comes out of the sensor maximum size before it hits you. But plenty of people use them on their desk as well, not how i'd recommend doing it but it works.

You should use an active usb extension for best results. These are the ones I use on my sensors


But there's another issue which is USB controller bandwidth. Oculus recommends plugging your first 2 sensors and HMD into USB3, and plug your 3rd sensor into USB2 so its on a different USB controller as to prevent USB bandwidth saturation.

u/Muezza · 1 pointr/oculus

It was what really started the popularization of VR that we're witnessing now and got myself and many others excited about it. I was already set on getting the CV1 long before the Vive was even announced.

While I'm not overjoyed with some of the business decisions and politics of the company, I've been very satisfied with the product itself. My only significant issue with the Rift that is not something other headsets would also have is that the cloth gets pretty dirty and is more difficult to keep clean than plain plastic.

Some of the concerns others have mentioned are barely issues at all or very easily fixed- the USB number of USB ports needed is fixed with a cheap pci-e usb card, the nose gap can be fixed with some additional foam if it is even an issue at all(it doesn't exist for me). Hoping CV2 has wireless sensors though, that would be neat.

u/Cothilian · 5 pointsr/oculus

I think I'll actually try to answer your questions (instead of just spamming my fanboy agenda).

  1. What matters in regards to USB ports is the total bandwidth available. Some motherboards aren't able to supply enough bandwidth for the Rift and 3 sensors. I wouldn't worry about this issue unless the Oculus software reports "Poor tracking quality" on your sensors. If that happens you might have to buy a PCI-E USB expansion card ($25).

  2. A third sensor will improve tracking quality for room scale and larger play spaces. You can do smaller room scale with 2 sensors, by placing them in opposing corners of your play area. Mount them as high up as possible, pointed toward each other, and angled downward. Your milage may vary depending on the size of your play space, and if you are able to place the sensors optimally.

    Some further notes:

  3. You should be fine starting out with 2 sensors, and expanding to 3 if you notice tracking issues. Note that a 3rd sensor may in some cases require the previously mentioned PCI-E USB expansion card (Link: Oculus recommended card).

  4. Since it's your first time trying VR: Take it easy in the beginning. All the experiences in the Oculus app has a comfort rating. Start with things that are rated "Comfortable", before moving on to Moderate and Intense levels. If you start experiencing nausea or discomfort, exit VR and take a break. Never try to power through the discomfort. And don't worry if VR sickness happens a lot in the beginning. Your VR legs will get stronger.

  5. If you have a beefy computer congratz! Download the Oculus Tray Tool and experiment with super sampling for a sharper visual experience.
u/drrenhoek · 5 pointsr/oculus

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

u/2close2see · 1 pointr/oculus

I'd recommend getting a takes a while to set up, but really helps with immersion. I use this stick with the following bindings. As for general tips, youtube is your friend, but this is a fairly good thread after you've been playing for a bit and have the basics down.

u/N307H30N3 · 3 pointsr/oculus

> I've never played before, but i really want to buy it and give it a go.

For someone that is new to the game, do you honestly recommend that they invest that much money in something they might not even use?

I am going to pick up my first HOTAS soon and am looking at the Thrustmaster T-Flight X.

Maybe after a little while, OP can consider a more expensive one, but for now, I think something like the T-Flight is probably a safer choice.

u/OculusRoss · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had an issue with this too, but others on this Reddit page suggested to me that I could use a PCI-E to USB 3 expansion like this.

I haven't gone ahead and bought it so far though. As I mentioned in an earlier comment, I'm also wary of whether my i-7 860 will be good enough to power VR, so together with having to purchase this USB expansion plus a better graphics card it's left me wondering whether I'd just be better of waiting until later in the year and buying a brand new computer instead.

u/FuriouslyFurious007 · 1 pointr/oculus

I got this one and it works perfectly. Granted, it's not 10 meter long like you wanted.

CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super Speed Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB Male to Female Repeater Cable with Signal Booster for Oculu

u/markjamesmurphy · 17 pointsr/oculus

I really hope some of you try this - it will blow your mind. It solves the audio problem completely and super effectively. All of the instructions are in the Imgur post.

Here's a link to the headphones:
KOSS KSC75 Headphones

Edit: You can get black ones from Drop! Massdrop KSC75X

And a link to the optional, fancier faux leather ear cups:
Ear Cushion Replacement for Headset, Compatible with Sennheiser Px200

Now I'm going back into VR! Hope to see some of you there.

  • Mark

    EDIT: I made some cosmetic touches that make it look much better. New pictures HERE
u/TheBdude · 1 pointr/oculus

I think that you're supposed to use a PCIe 3.0 slot, but my computer only has PCIe 2.0 support. If your computer has been manufactured after ~2008 (which I certainly hope it has if you're getting a rift!) then you should have at least 2.0 slots. I'm using this expansion card and with my Rift and both sensors plugged into it things have worked flawlessly.

TL;DR you're probably fine, just grab this card.

u/AdoreShitYuki · 1 pointr/oculus

Why do you have one of the best overclockable cpus of the last 5 years on a locked motherboard!? kidding Makes me want to cry lol

Have you ran the Rift compatibility tool? I'm not concerned with your cpu or gpu at this point, but whether or not your usb 3.0 ports are compatible with the Rift. Also, your motherboard only has two usb 3.0 ports, which is fine for now, but if you want to get Touch down the road, you'll need a third port. Fortunately, an incompatible usb 3.0 controller and/or insufficient ports can be remedied with a usb expansion card that plugs into a pci-e slot.

So with that out of the way, if you want to overclock, unfortunately, there aren't any 1155 mobos still in production that are any good(overclockable + having enough usb 3 ports), and this leaves you with two options:

Go on ebay and search for "1155 motherboard"'s and look for a used one that allows overclocking and has enough usb 3.0 ports(and are hopefully compatible), or keep your current mobo and just get the usb expansion card to add the ports, if you need them.

It'll be a bummer to have to leave your 2600k on its leash, but the latter option is the easiest/cheaper route to take, and, personally, I don't think tracking down a mobo is worth the hassle. As much as I like overclocking, the benefit it brings to gaming is pretty minor.

As far as your GPU goes, I have a GTX 780(2 in SLI, but SLI means moot to VR currently :( ) and am waiting for Nvidia to release their pascal line of cards, which should be revealed in April and released sometime towards the beginning of June. I'm not saying drop $700+ on a new card, but the release of pascal should drop the prices of the 980's for you during the following weeks, so wait until that time, if you can.

So to summarize and add a bit more:

Keep your current mobo, buy an expansion card should your USB 3 controller be incompatible and/or you want to purchase Touch down the road. Your stock 2600k should be okay. Don't buy a GPU now, wait for Nvidia to release their new line of cards and purchase a 980 when the price drops. Once you've done this and you find your CPU isn't cutting it, THEN track down a mobo, buy a cooler(like something from the Corsair Hydro series, they're around $100 and the 1155 brackets are compatible with Skylake should you decide to upgrade later), and overclock it.

u/Benjy86356 · 1 pointr/oculus

Fair enough brother. The controllers are on point indeed. There will always be a newer and better HMD coming out, I personally can’t wait for the StarVR One. I have a Rift, Go, Vive, and Vive Pro and they are all groovy. I am proud you have done such a good job working and saving up for your purchase. You are gonna be so happy!

Also- if you are going to add that 3rd sensor for full room scale tracking you may want to grab an additional USB card for your build as those bandwidth issues are pretty wack. is compatible per the oculus site. Just food for future thought.

u/ascendr · 6 pointsr/oculus

If you decide to spend a few extra bucks, I play E:D with a T-Flight HOTAS X, which is way cheaper than higher-end sticks and works just great.

Arguably the greatest Flight Assist Off pilot ( used this stick -- if it's good enough for him, it's more than fine for me!

u/Nick3DvB · 2 pointsr/oculus

I'd be very interested to know if you can get 4 sensors running at USB 3.0 on one card (just as a test), I was able to run 3 sensors from one card as long as I connected the Rift to a different card or motherboard USB port, but it wasn't very reliable so I wouldn't recommend either setup, best play it safe and stick to 2 sensors per card, to try and balance the load evenly.

Also, before everyone runs out to buy a second card, they should check to see if their motherboard already includes an ASMedia USB 3.1 "Gen 2" controller (ASM1142). I've had no problem running two sensors from these using the newer drivers, unfortunately one of the ports is often routed to a Type-C port, but you could use a converter dongle for that one. There are also a lot of PCIE add-in cards available based on this controller, but only a few have two Type A ports, this is the one I posted about 3 weeks ago:

It seems to be a popular choice now, some people have been reporting better results than with the Inateck card, but if you have applied the power-management fixes in the script then there shouldn't actually be much real-world difference on most motherboards.

u/VirtualRealityOasis · 27 pointsr/oculus

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK -

US -

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK -

US -

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK -

US -

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK -

US -

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK -

US -

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK -

US -

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK -

US -

Hope this helps :)

u/dwarrior · 2 pointsr/oculus

Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.

For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent

10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)

10ft HDMI extension for my hmd

Wall mounts for my sensors

And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card

u/toastman42 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Until about a week ago, I was running the Rift S on an i5-3570k, 16 gigs of RAM, and a GeForce 1060 (6 GB OC model), and most games ran just fine. Based on that, I would say your GPU needs to be upgraded, but your CPU and RAM are probably sufficient given they are identical to what I was using.

However, the Rift can be super finicky about your USB ports. A lot of USB ports or controllers can't provide enough power to support the Rift. The standard recommendation for solving USB compatibility issues is to get an Inateck PCIe USB 3.0 add-in card that has it's own power connector.

You can download the official Oculus compatibility checker tool here.

u/LetoAtreides82 · 1 pointr/oculus

If the cable is fine my best guess is that the USB slot isn't providing enough power. When I replaced my launch Rift S with a newer one (manufactured in August) I noticed that it no longer liked the USB slot I had been using for my launch Rift S.

It'd work fine for a few minutes until something happens that I'm guessing requires more energy and the PC isn't supplying enough and then I lose tracking. For example in Creed VR whenever I got knocked down I'd lose tracking and I'd have to quit the game and restart Oculus Home. That's something that never happened with my launch Rift S.

So to fix that I just bought a USB card and I haven't had issues since:

If you do go this route I suggest you make sure to disable USB sleep through device manager, to be safe just disable USB sleep on every USB Root Hub listed. I made the mistake of not disabling the new USB Root Hub that was created when I installed the card and it went to sleep after my first session and it was a nightmare to get it to unsleep, I had to keep uninstalling and reinstalling until the drivers finally worked magically.

Once I got it working again I made sure to disable USB sleep on all the USB root hubs and haven't had any issues since. Do note that Windows Updates sometimes resets your power saving options so after every Windows Update make sure that your USB root hubs are still set to never sleep.

u/keithian · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had no luck with the 10' Cable Matters USB 3.0 or the Monoprice 10' HDMI for the Headset. However, I did have success with the Cable Matters 6' and 10' for the sensors when I grouped them right next to each other on the back of my PC as my computer has the USB 3.0s in pairs in the various locations that they exist on the PC. The 10' Cable Matters HDMI wasn't available. Anyway, when I got them I realized I didn't need quite that length anyway.

I have two 3' Cable Matters for the USB and HDMI coming tomorrow so I can test that. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try ordering a 2k4K repeater which apparently helped some. There are 4 I found on Amazon, 3 run at 30hz and 1 at 60hz. I don't know if that matters as a repeater with 60hz only had two reviews on Amazon. If none of that works, I'll email Oculus Support :-)

u/Anth916 · 3 pointsr/oculus

> Also note that their maximum recommended area is 8'x8'. And in the link from support the maximum distance between sensors is 14'.

Yeah, I saw that, but I imagine that they are underestimating the range to be on the safe side. I guess I might just have to experiment with the install. It's going to be a bit of a pita to have to experiment, but oh well. I ordered three of these mounts:

So, I'll be able to use these mounts to angle them down towards the play space better. (I currently have them on maximum tilt, but I still don't think they are angled down far enough) besides currently being too far away as well.

u/mrimmaculate · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm running a similar setup to what you're looking at, just a bit shorter and less expensive. I couldn't see the need for the extra five feet.

Some zip ties, heat shrink and cable sleeving keeps it nice and tidy. I keep it clipped to the side of my desk with a binder clip to keep tension off the back of my computer. It also makes it nice and easy to disconnect when I'm not using it.

Other people have reported having good luck with the Vive box.

If you go that route you'll also need to find a power supply and you still need to find cables.

I didn't have any luck with the Insignia cable from BestBuy. It's seems pretty hit or miss.

u/fortheshitters · 4 pointsr/oculus

Please help me compile a list of known issues so we can itemize and isolate them with known successful fixes. If anyone has fixes please pile on and share them.

Known issues

  • random HDMI disconnects

  • Trouble upgrading to 3rd sensor

  • Trouble upgrading to 4th sensor

  • Floating controller

  • Setup issue

  • Camera hand off issue

  • Controller Jitter

  • guardian wall shifting


  • DO NOT MOUNT SENSORS UPSIDE DOWN. If you have them ceiling mounted, move those mounts to the walls so that your sensors can be right-side-up. - /u/MattVanAndel

  • Update Windows power plan settings. In your Power Plan's advanced settings, disable "USB selective suspend" - /u/MattVanAndel

  • In Device Manager, edit the properties for each USB hub and Oculus device and disable "Allow Windows to turn this off to save power" - /u/MattVanAndel

    Recommended Equipment

  • Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card
u/immortaldual · 2 pointsr/oculus

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

u/SoulBun · 2 pointsr/oculus

The question is a little bit broad, but you plug it into your graphics cards display port and into a USB port, download the Oculus software and steam VR if you want to play steam games and you're set. You'll want a graphics card like a GTX1050ti or higher for the games and at least a modern CPU.

Alternatively in the Rift S case it uses some kind of 3D mapping of your room/ play area to track the headset with it's cameras and then also uses the headsets cameras to track the controllers via IR lights emitted from them that flash at different frequencies.

If you do get a Rift S and your specs are up to par but you find that you loose tracking completely sometimes or get static/ snow looking stuff on your screen this can be fixed by purchasing and installing a USB expansion card in your pc, the recommended ones are basically anything with a Fresco L1100 chipset like this one:

u/gj80 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

u/DarKbaldness · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ah a good question. I was using the included extended (2.0) but switched to using 2x CableCreation USB 3 extension cables

If there are any specific tests or benchmarks you’d like me to run I am open to help :)

u/Avuja · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am by no means an expert, I think there's even an /r/HOTAS now and you may want to check with /r/elitedangerous, but I went with the Thrustmaster X on Amazon for about $45.

I didn't want to get just a joystick and this seemed to be the cheapest HOTAS system that was well reviewed. I'm happy with it. Lots of buttons, almost no deadzone in E:D, decent weight, good ergonomics.