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I have been doing the same thing and really enjoying it! Here is some stuff I stumbled across when I first started learning...

Getting a full 3D file like the .stl's for OLKB and slicing them using a tool like slicer can be pretty challenging. The 3D models don't have holes and often the case walls wide enough to support holes for mounting hardware.

Someone else posted it, but I would suggest starting with http://builder.swillkb.com/ and then importing your output into Inkscape (free version of Adobe Illustrator like software) and cleaning it up from there.

Mounting holes are way more complex then they might seem. The prettiest version has a small hole in the top and bottom layer, with larger holes in mid layers in which you put a standoff, then screws in from top and bottom. I now just cut uniform holes and run a bolt down to a nut on the underside. Here is a pic of each for comparison:

Standoff: https://imgur.com/gallery/NSlai4z

Bolt: https://imgur.com/gallery/5BzbrCX

Depending on the size of the bolts, they can get in the way of the space bar, so I have also tried moving them around a bit...

https://imgur.com/a/bWiHICO

Last thought is that 1/8 inch acrylic looks really nice and is pretty easy to match to metric bolt size, but it makes a crappy plate because it is too thick for the switches to clip in. I would suggest getting at least one sheet of 1/16 inch stuff and cut a bunch of plates out of it. If you can find it, get 1/16 POM (Acetal Delrin), it makes amazing plates! I get my stuff from a local plastics supply company that sells scraps, and it is still expensive vs acrylic. Don't go for the Delrin AF which is industrial grade, just basic Delrin. If you want to splurge, try making a whole case out of the stuff, it is amazing like this one:

https://imgur.com/gallery/BBNHbuR

For mounting hardware, Amazon has a ton of great M2 and M3 nuts, bolts and standoffs in assortment packages. For the recent SharkPCB, since they don't have the under PCB standoffs soldered on, I just put 2mm M2 standoffs between bottom of the case and PCB and ran a bolt up through them to get that same height of mount.

https://www.amazon.com/300pcs-Standoff-Column-Spacer-Assortment/dp/B07B9X1KY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m2+standoff&qid=1572535069&sr=8-3

For feet, to get a really good 6 degree tilt on my cases, I use small blister bumps up front like those that come with each OLKB kit, and then these on the back:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGKZFQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Post pics when you are done, it is always so cool to see what other people are building! Good luck :)

I have been using my handwired Preonic-clone-ish (same as Planck, with one more row) for about 2 months now.

It has been my best keyboard experience ever.

Here are 3 reasons why:

• layout configuration: being about to - easily - configure any key on your keyboard is amazing. QMK does a great job at making TMK firmware easy to use.
  
  
• macros: programming macros on this keyboard is, for me, the best feature of QMK. I have set up macros which open my emails, copies HEX colors and opens it in my online color picker, and many other useful features I use for work.
  
  
• ortholinear layout: after going ortho, you’ll only stick to othos ;)
  
  

  Daily driver
  

  
  I have been using it everyday for work and home use. I program and write everyday with it.
  
  

  Therefore, does it make me faster?
  

  
  I use to think it would make my work "faster". Literally speaking, it does not. Here is the misconception: people think having an ergonomic keyboard would make you type faster, and therefore, get your work done in less time.
  
  Here is my vision about it: I think having a keyboard which fits you and your needs will free your mind about how you translate your thoughts to your computer. Therefore, you will think less about how to write it, and more about your work.
  
  

  Programming tips
  

  
  

• search in QMK firmware users macros and layouts ;
  
• try as many layouts and configurations as possible, when you truly feels confortable with one, keep it ;
  
• checkout the links at the end of the comment for more help.
  
  

  Ergonomics
  

  
  Since the Plank is a small 40% compact keyboard, it is not the most ergonomic keyboard for people which suffer of minor wrist issues (just like me).
  
  What I do is I hover type (it makes my wrist less supinated, therefore less work on the hand tendons).
  
  To do so, I bought some wrist wrest (like these) for work, and I always make sure my elbows and forearms are always resting at the same level at the top of my keys.
  
  Please note that it is my opinion and which I feel more comfortable with. Do as what is the best for you.
  
  

  Conclusion
  

  
  I have not only learned a whole new way of using a keyboard, but since I have been using it, I feel free. I am using a keyboard that I like, that I made myself, and makes me more productive. I strongly suggest you to dig up as much information as you can before getting your Planck, so you'll be ready to have fun and program whatever you want on it.
  
  I hope I helped you and gave you as much information as you needed.
  
  

  Useful links (which might save your day)
  

  
  QMK Macro guide/documentation
  
  Macro ideas
  
  Advanced macro example
  
  PS: I built the Preonic and not the Planck because I live in France and the number row is full of useful characters such as accents and apostrophes. Calling off would have been a pain for me. Here is my build if you want to see it.

Hey man, if you haven't decided on what profile to try yet you can check these out from ymdk

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07NP7SFWY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

They are OEM profile. Most people on here tend to favor almost everything other than OEM for a board this small. However, they are only about $20 and they are fairly thick (1.5) double shot PBT. If you haven't figured out what you like that is a cheap way to see if you like them. The legend keys dont look as drab in person.

Note:
I ordered a blank set and they sent me printed caps. I contacted them and they offered me 1/2 my money back to keep them. So I got a new keycap set for $10 dollars that are pretty decent. The package arrived in less than 2 weeks. Great company to work with!

Good luck in finding your perfect setup!

You can use either type of switch.

That being said, I'd recommend that you use plate-mount switches. Many people do use PCB-mount switches, but they're not really necessary since the switches fit quite snugly into the plate, and the plate is made of beefy stainless steel. Besides, if you use the PCB-mount switches, you'll have a bugger of a time getting them to sit flush on the PCB since those leg holes are smaller than the legs themselves.

One thing to note: if you've bought Zealios for your planck, I highly recommend clipping those legs for best results. You can use a pair of flush cutters to clip those things off quite nicely. (This is what I use on my Zealios.)

EDIT: Re-read your question. Hope this is a better answer.

Maybe it might be a good idea to try a different switch.

I know that the switch itself, the keyboard and the caps make a big difference in the sound profile.

It might be worth getting kailh switches that have a click bar, as these sound better, in general. IMO, at least. Also, SA caps sound much better, in general. Again, IMO.

Also, if you want/need rgb friendly caps, I have several sets of these, and highly recommend them: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX58NG1/

And the white caps look the best, IMO (but that's because the mods have a different shine through effect, that is more diffused.

With the mess that is USB-C and reliability (across brands and power delivery standards) it took me awhile to settle on a cable. So, when I noticed that Flashquark was recommending the WSKEN Mini 2 X-cable for both micro and C, I decided to look for further reviews. Settled on this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782FY8P7

So far so good. Magnet is plenty strong to hold it in place during use and occasional adjustment. Note that it’s a one-way fit and the magnet attraction helps/forces you to connect it the correct way. Also, nicely, the light on the magnet-side of the cable is a soft-white. Not overly bright, but good enough to tell that there is power going through the cable. (And if you don’t like it, just flip it over. My only wish is that they made a L-type style connector.

I used these LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785DLY5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I then wired the long wire to a pin in the Teensy. he short wire I soldered to a resistor. The resisters were all soldered to 1 wire than ran to the GND pin on the teensy. Here is my LED code:

​


void matrix_init_user(void) {
DDRD |= (1 << PD7); //init D7 (Blue)
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD7); //turn off D7
DDRB |= (1 << PB5); //init B5 (Red)
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB1); //turn off B5
DDRB |= (1 << PB6); //init B6 (Green)
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB6); //turnoff B6
DDRD |= (1 << PD5); //init D5 (Yellow Green)
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5); //turn off D5
DDRC |= (1 << PC7); //init C7 (Yellow)
PORTC &= ~(1<<PC7); //turnoff C7
}

uint32_t layer_state_set_user(uint32_t state)
{

// if on layer _NAS, turn on D7 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _NAS || biton32(state) ==_NS2) {
PORTD |= (1<<PD7);
} else {
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD7);
}


// if on layer _ACT, turn on B5 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _ACT) {
PORTB |= (1<<PB5);
} else {
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB5);
}

// if on layer _NUM, turn on B5 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _GUI) {
PORTB |= (1<<PB6);
} else {
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB6);
}


return state;
}

//Lock Key Functionality

void BeginLock(void)
{
lock_active = true;
lock_searching = true;
PORTD |= (1<<PD5);
}

void LockKey(uint16_t keycode)
{
locked_key = keycode;
register_code(keycode);
lock_searching = false;
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5);
PORTC |= (1 << PC7);
}
void EndLock(uint16_t keycode)
{
lock_active = false;
unregister_code(keycode);
locked_key = 0;
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5);
PORTC &= ~(1<<PD7);
}

bool process_record_user(uint16_t keycode, keyrecord_t *record)
{
uprintf("KL: kc: %u, col: %u, row: %u, pressed: %u\n", keycode, record->event.key.col, record->event.key.row, record->event.pressed);
if(keycode == KEY_LCK) // lock key is pressed.
{
if(record->event.pressed == 1) //Do nothing special on key down
{
return true;
}
else //On key up, toggle on/off
{
if(lock_active == true) //If lock is active then turn off
{
EndLock(locked_key);
return false;
}
else //if lock off, turn on
{
BeginLock();
return false;
}
}
}
else if(lock_active == true) //Lock is active, need to execute steps that don't involve lock key
{
if(lock_searching == true && keycode <0xFF && record->event.pressed == 0 )
//Lock key pressed, which turned on search. Key needs to be valid. On key up, set as locked key
{
LockKey(keycode);

return false;
}
else if (lock_searching == false && keycode == locked_key) //if the key has already been set, ignore the button press
{
return false;
}
//if searching is false or its a quantum key, then continie on.
//if the locked key has already been set, a normal button push will add to the effect
else
{
return true;
}
}
else //Non-lock related keypresses
{
return true;
}
}

Sorry, crossposting left out the essential comment.

I had two TRRS cable: a coiled one and a straight 3-feet one. Both were a hassle to carry around and use so I looked around to see if there was something better and this was the best I could find.

TL;DR - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QJRDCJ

Features:

• Short - just long enough use my Let's Split slightly apart and angled.
  
• Angled - when moving around, I place my keyboard on top of my MBP keyboard and TRRS cable that sticks out straight bumps against the screen.
  
• Cheap - for $8 USD, you get TWO of them. As I'm waiting for NovelKey's Kailh socketed MX Let's Split Kit, this is great.
  

I love my Niu Mini... But I have a question...Does anyone know of a Mini USB -> Bluetooth Transmitter that will work to essentially make it a bluetooth keyboard? Is this a stupid question?I have done similar things with audio and devices like this one https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B01EHSX28M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GCNNAX9HSG2J&keywords=audio+bluetooth+transmitter&qid=1564191386&s=electronics&sprefix=audio+blu%2Celectronics%2C150&sr=1-3

​

Is anyone aware of a similar device that will transmit a Bluetooth signal for my olkb?

I know I would need to power it someway, but... If feels like something that should totally exist.

I’m pretty sure it’s this one: https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B07NY9XCJK

$12 on Amazon, I payed $17 at my local retailer.

There’s no temperature control so I only use it for switches and other things that can take some heat. Wouldn’t use that on an LED and expect it to work afterwards.

Not fancy, but it made desoldering my precious Zilents a breeze.

Awesome! Thank you so much! Would the 10mm ones in this kit work for the bent metal bottom? https://www.amazon.com/250Pcs-Standoff-Pillars-Assortment-Storage/dp/B072FHYJYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366283&sr=8-1&keywords=10mm+M2+female+to+female+standoffs

Thanks for the info! I am actually using this for one of my Plancks for now: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WMO1DU8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

It works pretty well. I will be carrying my board to and from work daily and while I am traveling on the road for projects.

Hey. See here for a tweet demonstrating how awesome Nintendo Switch travel cases can be at protecting your Planck.

edit here’s an Amazon link to what is likely the one pictured based on Hori Co Ltd tag. Plenty others to choose from :)

edit edit I’m expecting one of these and will share my thoughts once delivered.

update it wasn’t as pictured and is too low profile for the hi-pro Planck and sufficiently tight at the corners with a hi-pro milled bottom that scuffing would likely be an issue.

would still be useful to get an idea on how much height the PM with your 90 degree sockets would take up.

i took a closer look, so you bypass the micro-usb connector on the PM by soldering wire (or are they actually magentic wire?, where do you get that?) to the pads on the PM? i didn't even know you could do that! but that would help a lot with fitting a micro-usb pigtail.

though i've seen customer micro-usb pigtails made with these, https://www.amazon.com/CHENYANG-Ultra-Adapter-Connector-Tablet/dp/B015GZOHKW/ref=pd_ybh_a_37?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D8C7S78X9B3HW3KM5T2Z

which are lower profile that canibalizing a micro-usb cable that has a thick connecter end

​

Have any luck? I ended up just buying this one, because some other thread mentioned it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186E9PTI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll post here again if it works

Stethoscope cases have different widths, the one you linked is one of the smaller ones at 10.8 x 2 x 4.3 inches. This one is 10.6 x 2 x 6.1 inches and others are different dimensions.

No, it is too small, but I've heard that this will work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWDP0NC

I haven't tried it as I don't have my Preonic yet