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Yeah you're desk would probably work just fine. It shouldn't make a huge mess, it's not like you're using a power sander haha.

The CLU is just extremely hard to clean off copper, as in it bonds to it. You end up having to use some sort of abrasive to really get it off. With a lapped IHS, or lapped block, you'd probably end up having to "relap" it with some higher grit sandpapers (800+) to return to a clean copper finish.

You can certainly lap the H80 and GPU blocks, but I would take them off and check them with a nice straight edge first. I would also only use the Gelid on those coolers, the H80 and GPU blocks. It will be much easier to clean if future removal is required and Gelid is some highly rated stuff already.

I would seriously recommend using the knife/razor method to remove the IHS. Like the saying it's "so easy, a caveman could do it" lol. Buy an X-ACTO #2 knife handle and their #26 whittling blade. Or one of their kits that includes those since you'd get a lot more for your money if you had other uses. The #26 blade is the perfect length/width that you can easily judge how deep it's slicing through the glue, and long enough that you can hold it along the entire length of one side of the IHS after you cut through the corners.

Here's some crappy paint pics that should help explain the process:

Part 1 - http://i.imgur.com/MvYMYjL.png

Part 2 - http://i.imgur.com/J4Vc3C9.png

The reason I'm recommending the X-ACTO setup so highly is you have much greater control with the size of that blade attached to a real handle. Whereas if you used the typical loose razor blade like this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GWfZ_4BQK7s/hqdefault.jpg

or this:

http://s19.postimg.org/zco5sqnsj/image.jpg

is harder to control, harder on the fingers, and you risk using too much force and pushing through the glue too far. The X-ACTO handle eliminates this imo.

This image really helps illustrate how much glue can be on there, and where the die/transistors are in relation to everything. So use that as a clue when you start your cuts. Like I previously said, the size (width of the cutting edge to non-cutting edge) of the #26 X-ACTO blade helps with visualizing how deep your cuts are getting.

http://i.imgur.com/6or5ATh.jpg?1

Now if this sounds complicated or risky, please let me assure you it's not that difficult. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible with my explanation to help ease your concern. Using the method I described I had the IHS off in less than 5 min and I had never delidded anything before. The X-ACTO knife is so sharp. I mean it might feel like it takes more force than you'd think to cut through, but once it's off you'll be like "wow, that was easy."

This is the Liquid Electrical tape I used on the transistors after delid:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85120-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B003ERU04W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519375

This is a solid X-ACTO kit that has the blade and handle I'm recommending, but you could buy them separately for cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-X5028-Xacto-Do-It-Yourself-Set/dp/B000HGMA7I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519412

Sandpaper you can get anywhere. I'd recommend the 3M Wetordry stuff. They're usually sold in packs with different grit ranges and sheet quantity. Maybe you could get single 9x11" sheets of individual grits at an auto parts store or something though.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

I am going to guess that there are possibly other issues at play here, but that power issue needs to be resolved first and honestly I am not sure that a 650w PSU is going to be enough. If you are going to use a 650w PSU than you really should purchase a Kill-A-Watt meter from Amazon (link below) to confirm that power is OK.

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GPU Boost can be interesting, but I would not worry nor would I waste anytime troubleshooting or overclocking the PC until you resolve the power supply issue first.


Link:
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2DG585G2DJAM5&keywords=killawatt&qid=1557157054&s=gateway&sprefix=kill+a%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C

It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.

Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).

After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.

I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.

Keep us posted, this looks like fun.

Good god man yeah need to at least use 1600. Because you've sanded an almost perfect mirror finish with 400 grit you will now need to lap with an 800 grit, then 1200, then the 1600. If you go straight to 1600 the tiny scratches from the 400 grit wont come out unless you rub for a L O N G time. Best if you go even higher on the grits too. Its such a tiny surface area shouldn't take too long.

Also - I'm not sure as I don't have *ANY* experience lapping CPU's but might be worth getting some Tin Oxide or similar polish and then polishing with a polishing wheel on a Dremel. Will get it mirror smooth but again i'm no expert in CPU's just making knives and polishing stones and jewelry so take my advice on the polish with a grain of salt. If its a perfectly even smooth surface you want though that'd be the way to do it :)

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*Edit: Tin Oxide not Titanium Oxide

*Edit2: for those concerned about sand paper you can also just use a piece of hardened glass or a slab of granite or anything smooth and flat and then buy grits of silicon carbide. If you buy a 400 grit carbide, mix it with some olive oil, then put a teaspoon on the plate and start sanding away it will break down over use until it is eventually a very fine grit (say 2000 or so).

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Im in AUS but I see Amazon sells it:

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Carbide-Powder-400-Grit/dp/B007BRD6YC

The fans you have picked out don't suck, but they're more expensive than they should be and louder than better fans. The do look pretty, but that's what you're paying for.

I bought two of these; http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm-phanteks-ph-f140hp-white-frame-white-blade-pwm-premier-cooler-fan

I got them for a Hyper 212 air cooler, but they should work great for you. The only catch is that they're 140mm fans (with 120mm mounting holes) so they're bigger than a 120mm fan, but they'll fit on a radiator or heatsink with 120mm mounts.

They're absolutely silent, move 90cfm at 1300 RPM, they're cheaper than the fans you had picked out, and they're high pressure (HP) fans specifically built for radiators or heatsinks. They come in four different colors too.

These are the little heatsinks with stick-on thermal pads that I was talking about; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Enzotech-Graphic-Memory-Heatsinks-BMR-C1/dp/B002BWXW6E

Don't forget that the VRAM modules need to be cooled too, I don't know if the G10 bracket takes care of that or what, but just blowing air on them isn't enough. If they don't have a heatsink on them they need one. That could also be causing stability issues.

Something on that card is getting too hot and giving you problems, there's no reason it wouldn't be stable at 150mv+ on water cooling when it is on air.

If CPU temps were idling in the 60's, then trying to cool the VRMs won't help you. You need to clean off the old thermal paste and apply something long lasting and reliable like Arctic MX-4 or Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano. Clean off the old paste with any lint free cloth or coffee liner, and 91%+ alcohol. Then replace with reliable MX-4 (very long lasting) or Gel Maker Nano. Kryonaut is hit and miss with its longevity and may dry out quickly if the heatsink fit and flatness isn't very firm and solid.

For VRM's, use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTXSM/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-4237-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/

You still need to make sure you have something to attach the heatsink to the VRM's though. If it's a simple pin or screw it's easy.

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Cooler Master Hyper 612 Ver. 2 for $38 or Deepcool Lucifer V2 for $30 after $20 mail in rebate. I think those are your best options. You're still looking at marginally better cooling. Maybe 3-5C better. Delidding would be your cheapest option to gain the best results. You would need a vice, mallet or hammer and a small wooden block. You'd also want to pick up some CLU. Hopefully you know someone that has the vice, hammer and wood block. The CLU costs $10: https://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Thermal-Compound-Processor-Heatsink/dp/B0039RY3MM

It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.

I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.

Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.

These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.

On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.

The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).

Scythe Fuma: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-SCFM-1000-SCFM-1000-Fuma-CPU-Cooler/dp/B016XLGATE

Noctua NH-D15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00L7UZMAK

BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-Dark-Silent-Wings-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9

These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.

I would pick up an new PSU like this CX600 or this EVGA 650, which will work for this and future builds, and a go for it. The only other thing I would recommend is adding heatsinks to the VRMs beside your processor circled in first pic. That will help keep everything cool and stable while overclocking. These large memory sinks or these smaller VRM sinks just stick on and work well.

I learned to OC in the late 90' ( OK, not coiled foul). In early 2000's I started using thermal diodes on CPU, RAM and GPU. This will help you see the temps and either increase heatsink and fans or reduce your OC. A good thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly, Noctua NT-H2 or Artic MX-4. Which one you should use depends on surface. Some will damage aluminium, some have enough metal particals that can short your circuits if slopped over.

http://thermal-grizzly.com/en/

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1573504592&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Micro-particles-Durability/dp/B0795DP124/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-3

I Hope this helps you.

a better way to get better temps is to change the thermal pastes on your cpu and gpu(and at the same time, clean out the fans, and thermal fins). In terms of cooling pads, you're better off buying usb exhaust fans that you place behind the vents to suck out air. its loud though

also, im not sure if replacing thermal pads would help, it probably would, but very little gains, its up to you since thermal pads are pretty cheap too

edit: this is what i got for my laptop a while ago: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NACVLWM/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w

edit 2: Something to consider would be just increasing your cooling solutions. Instead of trying to overclock, try to control your temps so that your cpu/gpu won't throttle.

Another really expensive option would be is to email your laptop manufacturer if they would be willing to sell you a gpu upgrade. This is a really expensive option.
A cheaper alternative is to use external GPUs. I'm not really sure if you buy the housing and gpu separately or if its 1 whole package. If you can buy the housing separately, you'll have an option to choose a gpu that's not too powerful that your CPU will bottleneck

you could save up for 20$ more and you could get noctua nh-d15

it's the best non-watercooling cpu cooler. i've oc'd my 6600k to 4.5 ghz and my cpu is at 54°C under load. It includes high quality thermal paste. it's easy to put into the motherboard.

My understanding is that the power numbers reported by tools like HWiNFO64 are calculated numbers based on voltage and current sensors. So, the power numbers are only as accurate as those sensors. Some boards have decently accurate sensors/implementations, some do not. So, there's no generic way to characterize the accuracy of the power numbers. Some are OK, some are not.

The worst offender seems to be VCore sensors that are not close enough to the CPU package and thus because of vdroop between the sensor and the CPU at high current flow (a la high CPU load), they register incorrectly how much voltage is actually going into the CPU. Include that errant voltage in a calculation of power and the power number becomes errant too.

One way people examine the total power usage of their system under heavy load is to insert a power measuring device such as the Kill A Watt between your computer's plug and the wall power socket. This will tell you how much power the whole system is using at any given moment. Though the CPU is not the only power consumer through your computer's wall plug, it is the main one and if you factor in the efficiency of your power supply under load, you can get a rough estimate for how much power the motherboard is using (the vast majority of which will be the CPU). Though this won't tell you exactly what the CPU is using all by itself, it will provide a sanity check on these other measures of the power to see if they are in the right ballpark.

The coolermaster TIM will work fine, but if you want to get the most out of it, I'd recommend this stuff. It will work the best, but it will also bond the IHS to the core after it gets hot enough. There will be nothing else attaching the IHS to the rest of the CPU besides the socket clamp after you do this, you might want the stuff I linked for that reason alone.

With respect to the comments about your VRM cooling needs, it's not difficult to make some gains in that area.

Get these: https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RF6KXHY2C8N48XRBQP9T

Apply them to your VRMs as illustrated here: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134104&d=1382197078

(the 10 modules in the red rectangle to the left of the CPU socket)

You end up with something like this: http://images.hardwarecanucks.com/image/3oh6/evga/x58sli/small/heat-6.jpg

There's always the option of a dedicated ram cooler, here are a few options:

Cooler|Pros|Cons|Price

--|:--|:--|:--
Corsair Vengeance Memory Cooling|Appearance, fairly cheap|1 fan|$30
Gskill Memory Fan Turbulence III|2 fans, cheap|appearance|$25
Corsair Dominator Memory Cooling|Appearance, RGB, 2 fans|expensive|$65

I personally would go for the G.Skill as I feel that is the most bang for your buck, however if you care about the appearance I would get the Corsair Dominator.

Is this delidded? Are you planning to delid? With such a good bin, I'd be excited to see how good of an OC you could get if you weren't thermally limited.


I just got one with the AsRock Extreme 6, but I haven't yet found out how far I can push it on stock voltage. I'm using a Zalman LQ-315 cooler with the stock 50CFM fan swapped out for a monstrous 170CFM fan. My CLU (liquid metal thermal paste) is in the mail.

Yes, I am positive that everything is closed while running the test. I don't think its my ram because I was getting 1600 before with the same ram. My ram is rated as 2400MHZ, I don't think I can overclock it. They are ....

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-PC4-24000-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B06XHTPDQ7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ballistix%2B32gb%2Bsport&qid=1554519507&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&th=1

You could always take the card apart and replace the TIM with this. It's the best non-metal thermal compound on the market ATM, and could drop your temps by as much as 10 degrees.

The cooler you keep your card the longer it will last. The 2 770's I upgraded from never went above 58 degrees and are still going strong to this day in my cousins computer, and they were bought in 2013, despite having a massive OC on both of them. Keep your cards cool and they'll last for such a long ass time. With the temps I get on this 1080ti, it should easily last 10 years...

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-B450M-DS3H-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07FWVJSHC paired with a 2200g OC'd to 4ghz myself and it's been great, for whatever that's worth.

Cool video that, thanks. The prospect of it drying hadn't crossed my mind until two reviews on amazon (UK) stated that it happened with CLU - maybe they did something else wrong? The links to said reviews are here.

Coollaboratory liquid ultra seems to be the most commonly used TIM that provides the best results.

This one has always been very high at reviews.
It is liquid metal so don't use it on aluminium!
I use it on my i7 950 @ 4.0 Ghz with a thermalright true spirit 140 power and it reaches 60°C under full load.

I don't know exactly to what degree, but a cooling pad under your laptop might help if you have intakes or vents underneath. There are also these usb fans that help pull air through your exhaust vent, not sure how effective they are either but moving more air can't hurt.

https://www.amazon.ca/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermal+grizzly&qid=1574942898&sr=8-3

Amazon, mate :)

Your method is insane btw... Currently testing 3800RAM 1900IF for stability. The heat really does matter.

I've been trying to look for ram fans and found this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMYAF-Dominator-Airflow-Cooling/dp/B00GU9UG9A

People say that you need to have good clearance for this to work though. And there is a pump on the left and a huge radiator on top so I highly doubt this would fit

I feel like you're better off with this solution. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Airflow-Cooling-CMYAF/dp/B00GU9UG9A/ no need to take your ram heat spreader apart.

How effective do you think these would do the job? https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK

https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK

These might work better to get the little ones in the corner near the io.

That's cutting it pretty close. Keep in mind that PSU's are generally rated at a higher temperature than your room probably is at, though.
You could buy a Kill-A-Watt and see how much power you're pulling as you overclock. As a rough estimate, overclocking power is generally linear with clockspeed and quadratic with voltage.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

It is only one gram of thermal paste but I doubt you’ll need more to reapply, luckily they’re cheap

I'd recommend Noctua, they beat some aio water coolers.

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A/

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-A15x2-Cooling-Premium-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/

Coolabratory Liquid Metal Ultra will do the job just fine. I run my 7700K @5GHz 1.36v (I know, bad chip) and it tops out at about 67 degrees after an hour of ASUS Realbench. That's with a 360mm rad

i used this exact one : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PE5XAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't use liquid electrical tape. It can't handle the temps and will just be goo under the HS. Use MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating instead found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I swap to this?

VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Do not use heat tranfer tape. It isn't safe. It will likely cause a short.

Use 3M Scotch Type 35 electrical tape It is Safe up to 105C and it is good to use on electronics like this.

You didn't mention what kind of thermal compound you were going to use. DO NOT use IC Diamond, Arctic Silver, or Liquid Metal. The first two will scratch the die especially IC Diamond (rarely but possibl arctic silver. Most people I know that are using TIM on a bare die such as the one in laptops use THIS.