Best products from r/overlanding

Go multiple small containers instead of large. Measure the longest possible item you might need to carry in a storage container and then find a shorter version of that thing, lol.

Us FJ Cruiser folks have a tendency to really obsess storage, google “FJ Cruiser Pelican Plano roof storage” for a long tail, decade plus list of articles, forum posts and videos that might help you and other folks.

Front Runner Wolf Packs are pretty well regarded when you don’t have a pelican budget. The shape and size are perfect for roof top applications.


https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/front-runner-wolf-pack.html?geo-redirect=off&gclid=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0Iieat28XdzhS0ZkT6cqnqNDVHJpmcByPy8ZWCjCoXfKGEsKPt8NyZ_tDRoCwfwQAvD_BwE


I used 4 of these rubber made action packer 8 gallons after trying out the larger 24 gallon model and realizing that lifting 40-80 lbs on top of my rig was less than preferable.


https://www.rei.com/product/634286/rubbermaid-action-packer-8-gal


Pelican/Plano have a million options, again keep it on the smaller size. Speaking of Pelican, monoprice has started making their own knockoffs that I have heard good things about. Pelican is bomb proof but that name comes with a price.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Weatherproof-Shockproof-Hard-Case/dp/B00SSFAPVI/ref=asc_df_B00SSFAPVI/


If you really want to impress folks while on safari, Alu-box is the maybach of storage. They are truly global tested and the gold standard but my caviar and wine collection does not fit in them any more. Similar to the pelicans price wise but with the metal side walls being thinner and not rounded, you really can actually store a little bit more in them.


These days my roof rack holds my rotopax, a spare tire and firewood. I had a custom storage drawer system made for the rear that literally changed how I packed and made things night and day better.


If you are in Dallas, I have about a dozen boxes you can try lol. My garage looks like the storage endcap at REI with all the options I’ve tried. If I had to do it all over again I would avoid anything you can get at Walmart, simply because there are better options on Amazon, lol. I would probably just go custom interior storage if I could go back in time and tell younger me how much better things are. You sacrifice some space but the convenience and flexibility lets you focus on better gear and not what box works best for one specific trip.

For what it's worth I have a '15 Ram 1500 that I have been using since new as my primary off-pavement exploration tool - it's a stout enough platform with minor improvements.

Here is what I would suggest:

• A small lift is in order, if nothing else just to get that front bumper up off the ground a little. I chose to go with the Mopar lift because it's a well thought out, well executed example of lagom design. It's not a lot of parts but it's all top notch quality and it improves suspension travel without binding, and without negatively affecting towing stability for a truck that still has to get up and go to work being a truck.
  
  
• If you don't have them already, I strongly suggest the factory skid plates. There is one for the power steering, one for the front differential and one for the transfer case. The actual metal stamping for the transfer case is the same as the front differential one but they come in different kits based on what hardware is included, some of that hardware is "nutserts" (a threaded nut which affixes into a hole in the chassis like a rivet) so you'll also need an inexpensive Nutsert tool to install them. The transfer case skid plate also includes a crossmember to support its rear edge. These all bolt into existing holes in the chassis, just some of them use nutserts and others thread straight into the stamped hole. I believe I paid less than $200 for all three kits with all the nutserts and a $9 nutsert tool . I make a point of not trying to beat up my undercarriage if I can avoid it, but the added peace of mind from the skid plates is nice and they only have to do their job one time to be worth the price.
  
  
• Yes, tires. There's a lot of thought you can put into tires as there are so many choices available and people buy tires for a lot of reasons, a lot of different terrain, etc. A lot of times people buy tires for the cosmetics because they have a picture in their mind of what tire-to-truck ratio looks right. I tried to put cosmetics out of my mind entirely when tire shopping and strictly consider what the real implications would be in capability, availability, cost, fuel efficiency, driver fatigue, chassis parts longevity.. I ended up with ~33x10" tires (255/80R17) and now almost 20k miles later with a lot of varied terrain and weather, a 5000 mile road trip, close to capacity towing I consider that to have been a good move. This size also fits easily in the stock spare location, a 35" tire wouldn't. A few guys have told me they think I need bigger tires (that cosmetics thing again..) but they're entitled to their opinion.
  
  
• Tow hooks if your trim level doesn't already have them. The Mopar tow hooks for 1500's are pretty stout, I believe I paid about $90 for them.. that's kind of a lot for two hooks but they're beefy castings that tie into the frame very well and are engineered to not interfere with the vehicle's impact absorbing frame for collision safety. Depending on what bumper your trim package includes you may or may not want to get the revised covers that fit around the tow hooks.

First order of business is to get it in as good running condition as possible. All the mods in the world won't help if you are broken down. Find out what is causing your CEL and get it fixed.

The bouncy ride is likely due to bad/worn out shocks. Replace them with higher quality parts. You can get Monroe load adjusting rear shocks (look like coil overs) for about $90 for both. They are helpful for fighting rear end sag when you are loaded up. There are a lot of options for the front shocks depending on what kind of ride you prefer.

If your shocks were neglected, your other suspension components might be used up too. Replace the upper control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and might as well check the brakes too. Check to make the bearings in your wheel hubs aren't worn out either. If you can't stop or a wheel falls off, you will be in rough shape.

Change all of your fluids too if you can. This includes your differentials, transfer case, engine oil, trans, and coolant. You never know when the last time some of those have been changed, or what kind of condition the oil/fluid is in until you check. Test your battery or replace it if it is over 5 years old.

As far as mods go, start off with the basics. Get good tires that are designed for off road use, not passenger rated street tires. You can fit 31x10.5r15 tires with no problems or modification needed. Your tire choice will vary depending on the terrain you most often travel on and budget. Because of the 4wd system in your v8 explorer, you should also get a spare in the same size as your other tires. If you do get a flat, you can burn out drivetrain components because the smaller spare has to spin more than the larger tires in order to cover the same distance.

If you do want a slight lift, you can crank your torsion bar adjusting bolts in the front for a 1.5" gain. Any more than that and you will be putting too much strain on your cv joints. You will need to get an alignment after a torsion twist though. However, if you are replacing your ball joints and other front end parts too, you'll need to get an alignment anyway. For the back, you can buy a set of longer shackles (Warrior 153) that connect the rear part of your springs to the frame. That should get you about 2" more clearance in the back. You can also use an add a leaf spring to help bring the rear up more. An add a leaf will make your ride much more stiff in the rear though. If you have running boards, remove them for more clearance as well.

Set up proper recovery points in the front and rear. There aren't any good places to pull from stock, and you don't want to go breaking anything while you are trying to get out of a mess in the middle of nowhere. Also, check to make sure you have the factory fuel tank skid plate. It isn't 1/4" laser cut steel, but it is better than nothing. If you don't have one, look in a local junk yard.

You might want to get some new headlight housings too. They tend to fog and not do much at all. They are easy enough to replace and will make a huge difference on and off road. Auxiliary lights like Hellas, KCs, or maybe a lightbar will be very helpful if you find yourself off-road in the dark very often. Most of these aux lights come in a kit complete with a relay, fuse, switch, and a wiring harness. Installation is pretty straight forward and can be done well in a few hours (even if you have never done any electrical work before).

Other than that, just get out and enjoy the process of figuring out what you really need from your vehicle. Learn proper recovery techniques and always go with another vehicle if you can. Always pack emergency gear like a first aid kit, extra clothes, food, water, flashlight, and a handful of tools for quick fixes. You might find that you need a winch, awning, rtt, storage drawers, dual batteries, and full armor eventually, but it is better to build as you go to find out what is really necessary for you.

There are not a ton of aftermarket modifications for second gen Explorers, so you might have to do some custom work (or find someone who can do it for you). I'd advise that you do as much of the maintenance on your own as you can. That way if something fails, you will know where to begin troubleshooting and will hopefully be able to fix it. If you haven't already found it, ExplorerForum.com is a VERY helpful place. Tons of DIY guides and other resources for Explorer owners.

In my experience, there are two schools of thought on wiring in accessories. The first and most common approach is to tap into the vehicle's existing wiring to power all your stuff off the main battery. This is a terrible thing to do, though, especially with modern vehicles as they can be very sensitive to voltage drops and changes. Plus, it introduces the potential for countless gremlins that will ruin a trip, and may cause your vehicle to not function.

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The second and better school of thought is to design a secondary electrical system from scratch, that is connected only once to the main vehicle and that is at the battery OR the alternator (Battery is easier and way more common). The second way gives you a lot more freedom to build your system, because it all comes down to math. First, start with your power source -- how are you going to power your stuff?

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If you are going to do a second battery, then that's your answer. Find a place to put it that is near the chassis (as in, keep the weight low) and make sure you can secure it so it does not become a projectile. Connect it to your main battery using a DC to DC Charger (CTEK is good, Redarc is great and priced to match, Renogy is good but cheaper and not as widely tested). Then, install a fuse block near the second battery and run your accessories to that. If you want to run everything off the main battery, then instead of finding a place to install a second battery, just do the Fuse Block.

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The Fuse Block then becomes what you wire everything extra to -- literally everything that didn't come with the car should go through this fuse block. It's only connected to the main battery by two wires. By starting with this principle, if there are any problems at all with your accessories, your vehicle should still run without any electrical gremlins causing your rig to sit down, and if you need to totally isolate the system, 5 minutes to disconnect those two wires is all it takes.

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As far as the accessories themselves, the rest then becomes pretty easy -- figure out the energy required to run the accessory (quality manufacturers will supply this info), figure out where you are going to physically install the accessory, and how long the run of wire will be to power it. Select a wire that will be appropriate for the current, and you are good to go.. If you have many accessories in one place -- lets say you want to have a dash panel with 4 switches in it -- then I recommend getting multi-strand cables, like this:

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https://www.amazon.ca/Metra-MC918-20-20-Feet-Nine-Conductor-Multi-Use/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=vehicle+wiring+multi+conductor&qid=1563898763&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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This allows you to route one "Master" Cable to your switch block rather than running 10 individual wires. Obviously you'll need to buy the right gauge wire for your application.

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A few other pointers:

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• Grommets anywhere the cables pass through any hard surface.
  
• Shield cables as much as you can from wear and tear so that they don't short out.
  
• Put fuses in so that if you do have a short, power is killed immediately. I usually put fuses as close to the power source as I can. For instance, if I put a fuse 6" from my battery, and run that cable to my rear bumper, it doesn't matter where in the length of the vehicle I get a short -- the fuse will blow at the battery. If I were to put the same fuse at the bumper end, I could have a short anywhere along the length of that cable which could start fires.
  
• Make friends with dielectric grease and use it on every connector you see -- stock and accessories. Exposure to moisture (and the corrosion that comes with it) is the enemy of good electrical systems so this helps prevent that.
  
• Make sure you only use multi-strand automotive grade wire. Some folks I know have wired up things using household wiring, which is usually insulated solid core wire. That works fine in stationary applications but in a vehicle, the wire will move and bend and the multi-strand wire has way more flexibility.
  
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  We are hoping to use the ARB Linx system in our new rig to limit the number of wires we have to run. It's a fairly new option though so not a lot of people are familiar with it -- it might be worth a look though as it could save you some work.

Ridgeline! Ignore any haters, I "overlanded" in my Honda Element and love the hell out of the Ridgeline. You'll get a lot of unnecessary hate in a Ridgeline, including from pavement princess Tacomas, Jeeps, etc. Remember, if you're having fun, that's all that counts. Plus, your ride is way more comfortable than theirs to daily drive.

I had General Grabber AT2s on my Element, they were awesome. I have BFG KO2s on my Tacoma now, they're just as awesome. Discount Tire runs good promos, I highly recommend waiting and going with them. Definitely don't go anywhere before tires though, you'll regret it.

If you can, fit 1" larger diameter tires and upgrade from there. I did a spacer lift on my Element and it was enough, just take it easy.

Above all else, don't get caught up in all the gear and hype, go out there with your standard camping gear and enjoy the journey. If it's for you and you like it, upgrade over time to better gear. I went on dozens of trips with my V-Strom or PCX, had a kid, then went on 4 trips with my Element. I had so much fun and sometimes miss that freedom, but it's hard now that kid #2 is here. I've since upgraded from the Element to a Tacoma and bought a ton of crap... But that crap is just that. I could fit everything I needed to "overland" in a backpack on my motorcycles, and that's all you really need.

Get out there, have fun, and let the gear and expenses come if you enjoy it. If you've got a hole burning in your wallet, based on your rig, I'd recommend some basic recovery gear. I have a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AV2HONS/ and they'll get you out of most trouble without a winch. Start easy with forest service roads, and go up from there.

I have an Exped Megamat Duo. I also have a Freespirit Recreation soft roof top tent. I am 6'5", 280 lbs, and a side sleeper. The mattress is incredibly warm, but too thin for comfortable sleeping. I wake up multiple times through the night with aches and pains in my shoulder and hips. My wife is 6'1", 130 lbs, and a side sleeper. She also gets very sore sleeping on the Exped. Additionally, the Exped is thick and doesn't fold up or deflate quickly if your tent doesn't have much tolerance for extra material inside. I don't know about Alu-Cabs, but they probably have a bit more space than my folding soft tent. We use it with the stock mattress that came with the tent and is very dense, tough, uncomfortable 2-inches of foam. Sadly, the Exped is going to get sold soon. If you're in Oregon or SoCal, you can buy it from me. REI also has excellent return policies, so you could order it and return it if it doesn't work. I love this mattress… except when I sleep on it. Maybe if I were a back sleeper it would be better. I think it would be brilliant for an average sized back sleeper, or a smaller side sleeper. I can't address your concerns about width with too much detail. Usually an air mattress can squeeze in a little bit at the edges.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BIKVTUK/ I just bought this air mattress, which is six inches thick. It's a bit more robust than cheaper Intex and Coleman air mattresses, but not as insulated as the Exped. The extra thickness looks like it will be much more comfortable for sleep. Slow to inflate. We've had a lot of wind and rain lately so I haven't been able to test it out in the tent. The material when deflated is also very thin, making it easier to pack up in a folding tent. Unfortunately, it is wider than your tent.

There might also be a solution here for you: https://denvermattress.furniturerow.com/dmc/Denver-Mattress/Overlander-Rooftop-Tent-Mattress/prod2840019/

It’s one of these:
Kamp-Rite Tent Cot Original Size Tent Cot (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH46MU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JHhADbY1HNT8H

$150. No mount it just sits on the ground. Takes about 2 minutes to setup and is pretty comfortable. I keep it around to use when I bring a friend camping and they don’t have a tent or sometimes if I don’t have my RTT mounted I’ll use it for a quick one or two nighter.

Everyone that uses it loves it. However if given the choice I’ll still take my Autohome.

Terrain isnt bad at all, couple slightly steep spots, think I only needed to even use 4wd twice. Pretty much any stock 4x4 with decent ground clearance should be fine, you just might have to be careful about your lines.

I didnt even take my gps when I went, get a paper map if you can. The forest service map is better than the delorme for this area. And
this book lists the trail as well, would recommend getting it if you dont have it already.

http://www.amazon.com/Guide-California-Backroads-4-Wheel-Trails/dp/1934838071/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464888447&sr=8-1&keywords=guide+to+california+backroads+%26+4-wheel+drive+trails

Really like my Camp Chef Everest cooktop. Great flame control. Much better than the Coleman it replaced. Also have a Camp Chef Mesa table I really like -- it has legs that can be extended to put the stove at waist height when cooking and back down to table height for eating.

Other than that, just some junk pots and pans from Target.

I guess they're actually $120 a pair, but free shipping with Prime. Maxsa is the brand. I've had mine for almost a year and have used them a few times with good results. Totally worth the $120.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AV2HONS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

That inreach explorer you have should pretty well cover you on the emergency comms side of things. In that case I'd get a simple CB setup like this Uniden and a mag mount like a K30 or a little wil. That will cover vehicle to vehicle comms out to several miles and help keep you informed on road conditions.

I did Denmark - Cape Town on a motorcycle a couple years back. We could obviously only bring small gas canisters, and they lasted surprisingly long. Probably about 4 weeks cooking food almost every night on our (small, 2-person) Trangia. On a bigger stove and in cold temperatures, they will not last quite as long.

Beware, though, that they can be hard to find outside Europe. At least those with a screw fitting that we need (marked with an O here: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61mz2WkRXnL._SL1000_.jpg). Because of that, we brought a multifuel burner and generally had no trouble finding white gas for that (reinbenzin - nice list of translations here: http://trangia.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/fuel-list-bransle-lista.pdf).

Other types of canisters were easier to come by, so next time I'll bring a couple of adapters like https://www.amazon.com/Jeebel-Camp-Converter-Canister-Cartridge/dp/B072BYRT1Z/8 and one for pierce cartridges (which I can't find right now, but think exists).

Very nice rig by the way - I'm dreaming of a Defender or Land Cruiser with a rooftop tent :-)

Kodiak Canvas Mid Size 5-6ft Truck Bed Tent 7211 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072L6GRBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-rHgDbNPATG2Q


I use my truck to much for other things to have a fold out tent mounted to the roof or above the bed. This tent was a great option. More affordable and good headspace inside.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y85UME2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I got these for my 100 and they are the right size. I wouldn't drive with them on but for camping they are perfect.

FWIW I have the knock off maxxtraxx and they never have failed me. Technically I've never used them for me but they worked perfectly for the people I helped recover, including a weekender RV out of a soft sand and gravel patch in the high desert.

the amazon ones worked great for me!

here they are.

If you have a wifi only iPad model then I can recommend the Dual XGPS150A. I've used it with both my iPad and Android devices and it's terrific. EDIT: if you have an iPad with cellular data then it should already have a very accurate GPS and you won't benefit from getting an external one.

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Electronics-XGPS150A-Universal-Bluetooth/dp/B006M49G80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468216199&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+xgps

As for comms, what issues have you run into? I have both ham and CB and the CB gets WAY more use. Have you tuned your antenna / checked your SWR?

I use this memory foam topper and I find it very, very comfortable: https://www.amazon.com/Zinus-Green-Memory-Mattress-Topper/dp/B071ZTK95Q/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?keywords=memory+foam+mattress+topper&qid=1555171504&s=home-garden&sr=1-15-spons&psc=1.

Just got sent this link by a friend. I just bought a house with an 8' door so I can drive inside with the tent on (that was a requirement for any house I got). I was planning on building something to store the tent, but this is practically exactly what I was looking for anyway!

Figured a few people here might want the same thing.

*edit, and for those who can't see the facebook post, here is the amazon link!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009I8AO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WMUcd1BDsfqBC

Used my maxsa to pull myself 60 yds out of rim deep mud. Awesome kit
MAXSA Escaper Buddy Traction Mat (Set of 2) for Off-Road Mud, Sand, & Snow Vehicle Extraction Orange 20333 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AV2HONS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0OlTzbV0RKMNP

I only mount it when going on trips. Pully is a great idea. Here is one I'm looking at getting: https://www.amazon.com/Racor-PHL-1R-HeavyLift-4-Foot-Cable-Lifted/dp/B0009I8AO6/ref=s9_psimh_gw_g469_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=3NF3WKD5SFQTJVCSBVX7&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

This is the receiver I’ve used. A friend has it paired with his tablet and uses it and an iPad in his Cessna for navigating. Nothing jailbroken, works fine. I use a USB receiver with my laptop, but plan to switch over to a tablet soon now that I’ve played around with that setup. Lots less cords to deal with.

https://www.amazon.com/X-BULL-Recovery-Traction-Tracks-Ladder/dp/B01MS1SKIW

I bought those. Never needed to use them yet.

They seem pretty solid though.

Maybe a tent cot? You'd have to measure to make sure it would fit, since the legs aren't at the ends.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH46MU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XKDUAb2BDWG9W

I didn't watch the whole video, ( too much selfie time), but I don't think it was ruined, just stained. Either way, get some damp rid, and pack it inside the tent when you store it to help collect moisture when you pack it. https://www.amazon.com/DampRid-Hanging-16-Ounce-3-Pack-Fresh/dp/B072LN492H/ref=asc_df_B072LN492H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198079845992&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16378644307910306413&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061192&hvtargid=pla-351207408623&psc=1

They need to be properly oriented to work, but hopefully you can work something out.,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AV2HONS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492108117&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=maxsa+escaper+buddy&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0N2OOheL&ref=plSrch

Available at walmart according to google as well!

The book Guide to California Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails is a great beginner book. You will want to get a GPS and input the coordinates from their website. It has Anza Borrego, Death Valley, the Mojave Road and tons of others. It organizes by location and difficulty. I have a modestly upgraded FJ cruiser and my brother has a stock Xterra both with 4low and rear lockers with smart driving can do anything but difficult rock crawling.

Once you get good at route finding you must do the Mojave Road it the the quintessential socal overland trip and can be done in a stock Jeep.

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-California-Backroads-4-Wheel-Trails/dp/1934838071/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

https://www.amazon.com/Escaper-Traction-Off-Road-Extraction-20333/dp/B00AV2HONS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538490518&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=recovery+boards&psc=1

Traction mats
https://www.amazon.com/Innovations-20333-Escaper-Orange-Traction/dp/B00AV2HONS