(Part 2) Best products from r/parrots

Welcome to the world of parrots. I'm sure we all wish we knew a bit more when we started out.

Phoenix Landing recommends a minimum cage size for budgies as 27"w x 24"d. Note that height isn't listed as width is the more important factor. You can find various budgie cage set-ups here. Unfortunately most cages marketed for budgies are too small for such active little birds. Upgrading your budgies' cage when you can would be a good idea.

A variety of perches with different diameters and textures are best to avoid bumblefoot. There's a great presentation from Phoenix Landing on Perches and Playstands that goes into the details and shows many options. The small bottlebrush perch from Amazon is popular with our birds since the bark can be chewed off. Perch placement is a lot of trial and error. See how the birds are moving about and make sure the perches are clear of droppings from above. Ditch the dowels when you can.

Swap out the litter on the bottom cage for black and white newspaper, plain brown paper, commercial cage liners or other safe paper. Plus it'll make it easier to monitor their droppings.

A seed only diet isn't great for birds, but you're on the right track with offering them safe new foods. Introducing a good quality pellet to their diet is a good idea. There are many different strategies for converting birds from seeds to pellets: UC Davis VMTH, Drs. Foster and Smith, Roudybush, Zupreem, Harrison's, etc. Do monitor your birds closely to make sure they are still eating and not losing weight.
Some ideas for fresh foods to add can be found here. Seeds can be soaked or sprouted for better nutrition when offering them to your birds. Commercial pet store seed diets aren't usually great candidates for soaking or sprouting though. Some of the better seed options include Sprout People and TOPS.

When it comes to toys, think enrich, but not overwhelm. Each bird will have their own preferences, but in general budgies tend to enjoy anything they can swing on, shred, or make noise with. Cork and balsa toys like the ones found here are good examples. MakeYourOwnBirdToys.com has helpful videos on their YouTube channel. The vendors listed in the sidebar have a nice selection of toys too. Setting up the environment for a happy bird and good behavior takes thought and effort. Avian Enrichment gives a nice overview on parrot care and Kris Porter's Parrot Enrichment for keeping the energy focused on appropriate behavior.

The Gabriel Foundation in Colorado offers an online Beyond Bird Basics class for $40 that's a great overview on parrots. Greyhaven offers a free welcome home e-book. The behavior advice leaves a bit to be desired, but it's overall a nice resource. It's best to get established with an avian vet while you have healthy birds. It'll give you a great chance to get a lot of your questions answered and learn where to take your birds if you an emergency situation after hours.

Two excellent resources for behavior are, Dr. Susan Friedman of Behavior Works and Barbara Heidenreich of Good Bird Inc..

Good luck and enjoy your budgies!

Glad you hear your Amazon is doing better!

Sprouting sounds intimidating but once you start you will laugh at how easy and low effort it is. I started sprouting by picking up one of these. You can get larger/fancier contraptions but I only sprout 1 tbsp of seed for my boy per week and so a mason jar is the appropriate size. Next you need to get good, FRESH seed as it is the only way you won't end up with rot. I have used a couple different kinds of commercial bird seed but in the end stuck with "people" grade from SproutPeople. It never fails to sprout, they offer special bird mixes, and the 1lb bag lasts for months (alternatively amazon.com also offers good sprout mixes).

As for sprouting methods, SproutPeople has great instructions on their website and it is pretty easy finding a reliable guide online. The only tips that I have from personal experience are:

• Rinsing the jar you sprout in with a very tiny amount of diluted bleach before sprouting seems to help cut down on mold in the summer (i.e. when it's hot and humid).
  
• Soak all bird seed for at least 12 hrs (up to 16) rather than just 8 as some of the harder shelled seeds may not sprout if they don't absorb enough water.
  
• Draining VERY well is key! I leave my jar tilted in a drying rack why growing, and run my finger around the holes of the lid to encourage excess liquid to drip out.
  
• Experiment with the length of sprouts for different birds; for example, my parrotlet likes them best when they are only allowed to grow for 2 days (after the initial soak), and doesn't eat them as much when the roots are super long.
  
• Finally, even when stored in the fridge the sprouts will continue to grow slowly so I usually stop them a day before they are the perfect length.
  
  Hope this helps; happy sprouting!

You know your mother. Do you think that she'll read a full book on parrot ownership of you give her one?

A few words of caution about literature that you find. Look at the date that information was printed or shared online. Knowledge of how parrots live, their diets, their social lives, and things that are toxic to them has all improved over the past decade or so. Just make sure that articles you or your mother are looking at online aren't quoting something from 1972 or something like that.

This [author](The Parrot Problem Solver by Barbara Heidenreich http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H4X7ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_udp_api_mx.CxbSSTKDBZ) is pretty good.

I want to specifically call this out because it's easily going to solve the "she shouldn't have a parrot" situation if she's not aware of it. Get rid of all Teflon pans and aerosol air fresheners, etc. as they're toxic to parrots. Teflon releases a gas when it's heated that has been proven to kill parrots very suddenly. This is an example of something that was proven in 2002 and was beloved to be conjecture until that point.

Ask questions here if you have them, or go to avian avenue and ask them there. Macaws are big parrots and aren't simple, but her new parrots age and personality will play a big role in how easy it is to deal with.

If there's are some things (outside of Teflon and poisons) that I'd highly suggest researching they would be:

1. socialization - the more people that can handle the parrot the better. This will make it less prone towards being territorial and just all around easier to live with.
   
   
2. diet - seed mixes are easy to come by and sold like they are a one stop shop for perfect nutrition. They're not. Pellets and veggies are ideal if she wants that macaw to live a long life (i.e. Into its 20's - it can live into 70's if it has a good life)
   
   
3. entertainment - toys and things that it can do inside of its cage. It's a smart animal and needs mental stimulation. Not giving it this can cause the bird to get depressed.
   
   This isn't research, but it's good to do..
   
4. cage cleaning - can't set it and forget it. Papers at the bottom of the cage should be changed every 2-3 days at a minimum. Parrots can get sick if everything isn't cleaned out frequently. I purchased a hand cleaner to clean off the cage bars every Saturday for our parrots. It sure isn't a glorious job, but it keeps them clean and healthy.
   
   There is so much more that I want to keep going down the list, but this is a good start.
   
   Good luck with this situation. Hopefully your mother is taking it more seriously than you imply... I can certainly see the appeal of a macaw, but that's a whole lot of bird.

Keep checking up on lost bird websites and your local animal shelters. If it's someone's pet, they've lost one of their best friends.

But that being said, I applaud you for taking he/she in even without having had a bird pet before. Green Cheek Conures(GCC) are sweet little devils that are pretty easy to maintain once you get into a routine.

Start by taking him to the Vet, they can gender-test, check up, and see if any local owners have lost a GCC. I'm not sure how big that cage is, but the minimal size of cage should be it's wingspan wide, and tall enough to climb around. The Vision M02 is a solid cage for a GCC, and filling it with toys, swings, and chewys will keep your guy entertained and happy while you're away. I'm not too keen on GCC diet, so please defer to some of the more enlightening posts here on that.

When you're at home, your bird should really be out of the cage, sitting near/on you. This strengthens his/her bond with you, and teaches them that your are: 1- Not a threat, but a friend, 2- The bringer of treats, scratches, and fun, and 3- Their best buddy and flock friend. One of the cooler things about the Conure family is their love of laying down. Most other bird species hate being put on their backs, but Conures can grow to love it, and will often lay down in your hand and fall asleep.

However, since this guy is a full-blooded parrot, you're going to have to deal with the noise. He will screech and whistle at an ear-splitting level. There are ways to help cut down on the amount of screeching, but bare in mind that it's hardwired in him/her, there's no stopping it. The two best ways to minimize it is to always be with him/her when you're home(never just leaving them in the cage), and to occasionally make them forage for food. This can be done with foraging toys or by making your own forage box. In the wild, birds have to forage for food, and the new convenience of an always-filled food bowl will make them grow restless, and bored.

We look for to seeing more of your new friend!

Sure thing, absolutely--thanks for asking!

Getting your bird to switch to pellet is THE CLASSIC new parrot problem. The reason is pet stores and breeders feed seed diets to young birds. This serves two purposes: first seeds are cheap, second seeds add weight which is good for young birds in potentially stressful situations.

Here's a great article on switching your bird from an all-seed to a primarily pellet-based diet: http://www.parrot-and-conure-world.com/switching-birds-to-pellets.html

Seeds aren't bad as PART of your Conure's diet. I'm a big fan of Volman's seed products, one reason is that they package their seed in breed-specific mixtures.

Pellets are extremely important. They are specifically designed to give your Conure the nutrition a growing bird needs. Even offset with fresh fruit and vegetables a seed-based diet is not good for your bird's health and pellets are specifically formulated to include proteins and trace minerals that your bird is not going to find elsewhere.

My bird's cage has four feeding stations: Pellets, Water, Seed and I have this acrylic thing that holds up to four bowls for fresh foods. So you can provide a whole lot of variety in your bird's diet once you establish pellets as the base.

Additionally, you're going to want to give your bird small amounts of occasional good fats like coconut oil and red palm oil. This can be done by infusing it into your pellets. It's pretty easy to do, just gently warm some of the oil to liquid and drop in some pellets and shake them around until they soak up the oil. Store and feed.

You'll also want to be sure to provide either direct sunlight (not through a window) or a bird-specific full-spectrum lamp as this is how birds produce vitamin d and process calcium. Check on Amazon for "bird light full spectrum" for the light that best works with your cage setup--be very careful to get the "avian" bulbs and not the "reptile" bulbs, as some companies make products for both. The reptile lights are different and can harm your bird's eyes.

Another GREAT habit to get into is weighing your bird every day. A gram scale with a T-perch like this one is super easy to use and changes in a bird's weight are the best indicator of health. This is because birds are very good at hiding any illness so as not to be banished from the flock. To them, looking healthy is a matter of life and death. Having an understanding of your bird's current and usual weight is the quickest diagnostic tool available. Once grown your bird should weigh about the same within a +/- 5% window.

I have used pretty much everything to take my tiels to the vet. These are my top three that I personally used. :D

A) This awesome foldable travel cage. I love this because it folds and it is an easy travel cage when I take my flock with me on vacation, to the park, easy way to take them outside sunbathing with me, or to the pet stores ..etc. I also have used it during vet visits as well.

B) A simple, basic, plastic extra small dog/cat carrier. Sorry for the photo quality but I kindof wanted to give you a better idea. This is super light. It is easy for me to get my flock member and put them in there. I probably use this carrier the most for vet visit. You can drill a hole on the sides and insert a perch . You can get a mash for the front of the carrier so their heads don't get stuck between the bars.

C) A bird carrier backpack. This is worth the money. This is super study . It has a steel bowl holder, small animal water bottle holder, and slide tray for easy cleaning. I love this. You can use this for the vet visit and take your bird for a hike afterwards. Here's one of my birds using it at his vet visits

And to get your tiel in the travel cage, you can bribe him/her with millet.

With our tiels - very little. Unlike a cat or dog, they don't wander around a whole lot. They'll play with toys and explore the holes in between couch cushions, but for the most part, they'll stick to where the fun and food are. My female tiel enjoys staying in and around her cage, so the only clean up is the normal every few days vacuuming. I recommend a dust buster or "quick pick up" style vacuum to keep near the cages to catch food debris.

The male tiel likes to hang out on the window perch, and on the stair banister rail. They typically plop once per hour, so there are only a couple little turds to clean up. They're water soluble and clean up easily, so it's not a problem at all, and could be avoided if you just place a paper towel/newspaper under the window perch.

Tiels really are the easiest birds to care for!

I've always fed my birds chicken bones, minus the fat and skin but maybe some meat, and not fried but broiled but I assume fried is ok. Introduce slowly, see what happens, I'd start with legs.
I've only used chicken bones myself.
Parrot muffins. Mine start with jiffy corn muffin mix, I add a can of whole corn or a can of mixed veggies all drained, a few eggs with the shell, a handful of shelled peanuts and from there get creative. I normally place three of four peanuts in the shell on the bottom of the cup cake wrapper before filling (Use a ice cream scoop),I add diced up apple,sometime a hand full of parrot seed mix, etc. Add milk to get it a workable mix. On top I sprinkle seeds sometimes salt. (I've seen macaws in wild flying to salt clay areas).Bake like a muffin, 375 until browned. The thing is you want to make it stimulating on eating and playing with the wrapper all day. My macaws go through 3 a day, African g's 2 a day.
Nature Valley sweet and nut bars are also a treat as who doesn't like giving their birds a little sugar buzz a few times a week, they like unwrapping the bar too!
I also like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISMZO5C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 parrot toy.

Sounds like she'll be fine with time then :)

If you want suggestions for cages, Vision's usually a good set - I use this one for mine: https://www.amazon.com/Vision-Bird-Cage-Model-M02/dp/B0012DOXEI/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504334336&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=visionbird+cage - It's big enough, but only just. There's also the Large model that's really not much bigger, just wider: https://www.amazon.com/Vision-Bird-Cage-Model-L01/dp/B0012DOXFC/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504334336&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=visionbird+cage

Best part of those cages is the plastic bottom part that detaches, makes cleaning the bottom easier than a slide-out tray + the bird gets a better view while eating and most importantly, no seeds being flung everywhere since it's solid walls, with little doors on either end to change the food/water easy.

In the meantime since you only have two (I assume one is long and goes lengthwise for the food/water?), you can probably put that one in the middle just above the door, she'll wanna be as high as possible but not bumpin against the ceiling if at all possible...I know it's kinda tough in that cage though, it looks neat but when it comes to practical use I regretted buying it, lol

Edit: I forgot to mention one thing, your birb may or may not have issues getting to the bottom of the cage with those cages - the "depth" of the solid see-through walls is kinda deep, and getting Ladders/Perches that go down to the bottom is tough to figure out. I got lucky in that mine basically does "pullups" to get up and down - she'll grab the bottom bar of the cage part with her beak and lower her body and feet down to the grate on the bottom, and do the same to pull herself back up when she's done. Your mileage may vary.

What a cutie!! Good on you for taking him in. 🙂

My bird didn't have arthritis, but as he got old and his tumor grew I tried a bunch of different types of perches to make resting easier. As another person said, rope perches can be really good, but I think really the key is variety. Natural branches are great; they're much better than dowels because when the bird moves the diameter and shape changes.

Anyway, a couple things I tried that might be helpful... he mostly ignored this corner perch shelf (there are also similar solid wood shelves or cloth hammocks) though I think it could work for many birds, I had this branch bridge horizontally as a long perch and he really liked it (got pooped on though)... For a while he had a cozy hut but became too obsessed with it so I had to remove it.

There are also heated perches you could try, which might be nice for arthritic feet. If you do that, just don't have the heated perch be the highest perch in the cage (apparently they'll sometimes stay on it too long with that setup).

Hi there - both birds are male. Wallace has the same blue cere as your bird. Charlie is one of those color morphs where the cere doesn't turn blue.

I'll do my best to ID everything. I included links so you can find product numbers if you need them.

1. Lixit Quick Lock Bird Bath
   
   
2. Happy Perch - as far as I know, they went out of business. They were a small company based out of Colorado that was badly affected by some flooding a few years back.
   
   
3. Clean cup feeder
   
   
4. Scooter Z Circle Circle - I cut the rubber ball off of the one in the cage because it got brittle. That's why it currently has pieces of Shredders in it!
   
   
5. No idea on the brand, but it's a natural wood perch. The texture of the bark helps wear their nails down but it's more comfortable than the cement perches people sometimes use.
   
   
6. "The Wave" toy from JW Pet Insight Activitoys - I pulled off the bell because the company wouldn't confirm it didn't have zinc plating. Parrots play with things using their mouths and anything zinc plated can cause zinc poisoning down the line.
   
   
7. Booda Comfy Perch - there are several brands of rope perches out there. I've bought a few and they seem comparable. I have these in several sizes. My birds love them.
   
   
8. Insight wood bird perch - Don't remember the size, sorry.
   
   
9. Wood corner shelf - This takes up a lot of room in the cage so I wouldn't get one unless you think your bird will use it.
   
   
10. JW Pet Company Insight Cuttlebone Holder
    
    My birds also have the Bird Kabob Mini and the Scooter Z Tropical Lily.
    
    

Have you tried acrylic foraging toys like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Foraging-Systems-E487-Feeder/dp/B004TRYI3U/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394131550&sr=8-13&keywords=Bird+foraging

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Foraging-Systems-6-Inch-Diameter/dp/B001N2TG22/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1394131550&sr=8-8&keywords=Bird+foraging

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Foraging-Systems-E487-Drawers/dp/B00D84OEFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394131550&sr=8-3&keywords=Bird+foraging

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Foraging-Systems-Sphere-Diameter/dp/B001MWZF7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394131550&sr=8-2&keywords=Bird+foraging

There's SO many like these out there! It'll require your cockatoo to think as well, so it should theoretically keep him occupied longer ;) they're a tad more expensive, but they last longer and are less messy so there's value in that! I don't have a big bird anymore, so my sources are out of date, but maybe another redditor can provide some suggestions on where one can get the best deals for these :)

Good luck!!

I would suggest something like this probably for your hahn too since the bar is probably stronger also had room on top- Yaheetech 68'' Wrought Iron Select Rolling Large Bird Cages for African Grey Parrots Cockatiels Green Cheek Conure Play Top Bird Cage with Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWLEC00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aDg0Cb9HBVE62.

Something like that size would be acceptable for the hahn IF the bird is out of the cage a lot.

Ecclecus would probably need bigger-
New Elegant Wrought Iron Open/Close Dome Play Top Bird Parrot Cage, Include Metal Seed Guard Solid Metal Feeder Nest Doors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTGDT2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SFg0CbQR4VMX6

People have left reviews saying they use this for African greys and cockatoos which are about the same size


If they are out of their cage 6-8 hours day, those sizes are not as important. However if they are in their cage 12+ hours a day size is very important

if she’s not anxious without you then it could be perfectly fine to have her in a backpack carrier! i’ve heard good things about this one and i think taking her safely out for some fresh air is a fantastic idea. i can see your issue with harnesses, especially if you live in a particularly predator-ridden area. (of course, there are cheaper options than the one i linked)

A few things

• No parrots only bond with 1 person at a time. They will have their favorite person, but with proper training they should tolerate all flock members.
  
  
• This will take a lot of time to get to a point where he behaves around you. We are talking months.
  
  
• You need to spend a lot of time around him. Sometimes talking to him and giving him treats, sometimes just being in the same room but doing your own thing.
  
  
• Start the habit of every time you enter the room, go over and give him a treat. This will build the association in his head that when he see's you he gets treats, so he will be happy to see you.
  
  
• Get this book. Its got good advice

Take him to the vet. Have him checked out to rule out any health causes. I second the advice to have your gf take a backseat in taking care of him. She and you will need to be on the same page about this 100%.

I also highly, highly recommend that you read and practice daily what you can learn from the following books:

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/clicker-training-for-birds-melinda-johnson/1006112405?ean=9781890948153&pcta=n&st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_Core+Shopping+Textbooks_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP17&k_clickid=3x17

http://www.amazon.com/Parrot-Problem-Solver-Barbara-Heidenreich-ebook/dp/B004H4X7ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453917288&sr=8-1&keywords=parrot+problem+solver

My bf spent a few months reading and practicing what he learned from these two books. He went from "barely tolerated while lunging at you to kill you" to "I LOVE YOU FATHER, WHERE ARE YOU GOING? I LOVE YOU" with our quaker within a year and half of consistent work. I think there's still hope for you and your parrotlet. Give these a go.

I have had some luck with toys that are clear. If my gal Cosmo can't see the food, she usually has no interest in trying to see what is inside. Something like this kintor box isn't too hard to do. I fill it with paper, toys and treats like popcorn and nutriberries, and she has fun taking out all of the things out of the holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISMZO5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

There are cord protectors out there. You can find them at a home improvement store or on amazon.
I got a bunch because I have bunnies and it's super common to "bunny proof" your house. Works for dogs/cats/and curious parrots too. They make prettier ones too...(https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Electric-Protect-Rabbits-Diameter/dp/B07L86SJNJ/ref=pd_sbs_199_t_0/139-7801524-5489905?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07L86SJNJ&pd_rd_r=7c4d8736-481b-4d23-bceb-26bccc4628dd&pd_rd_w=j8Ez0&pd_rd_wg=TtMtb&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=2C5WQEH51WJDZ4RKPZGA&psc=1&refRID=2C5WQEH51WJDZ4RKPZGA)

Some birds will eat meat, but it is not a natural part of their diet. giving your bird fresh fruits and vegetables and switch him to a pellet based diet would be best. Pellets should have all the nutrients your bird needs. You can order pellets from amazon if there are no pet stores nearby.

Try [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Harrisons-High-Potency-Fine-1lb/dp/B0007LI108/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1454019120&sr=1-6&keywords=harrisons+high+potency+coarse) or [these] (http://www.amazon.com/ZuPreem-Fruit-Blend-Fruitable-Cockatiel/dp/B00DRP472W/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1454019038&sr=1-1&keywords=zupreem&refinements=p_89%3AZuPreem+Fruit+Blend). You can also buy [avicalm] (http://www.amazon.com/Avitech-113514-Avicalm-Calming-Supplement/dp/B00I2LT1YK) on amazon.

Check this out: Birds LOVE Small Bottlebrush Cage Perch Birds LOVE https://www.amazon.com/dp/982249792X/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_WbdXDbV2MX65Q

This looks decent, assuming it's scaled correctly with the human standing next to it (cage 'photos' by their manufacturers are super bad for things like editing the a pic of a bird to shrink it so that the cage looks bigger with the impossibly-small bird inside it).

How you equip the cage is important as well - they need toys to keep them entertained, but don't put so many in there that you're taking their open flying space away.

The "out for 4-5 hours a day" makes a difference too - you could get away with a cage that's a bit smaller if you're consistent about that (imo, best practice is to open the cage whenever you're home, and let the bird choose when it wants to be in or out of it - only time it should be locked in is if you're out of the house or asleep).

Thanks :) Amazon! ww.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063446M/ should help fix someone's little bird-soup problem, haha.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00063446M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526973104&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cat+fountain&psc=1


It’s for cats and dogs but they love it!

that seems like a good idea. Something like this?

Lixit Quick Lock Bird Bath https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I6ORHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Totally worth it 😁

I have the same one for my Hahn's. He loves it!

Amazon Link

I would think this is not big enough.

The page shows that this is a finch/canary size cage.

My cockatiel has a rather large cage. In fact, it used to be my Senegals cage. It's about 22" wide and 45" tall by 18" deep.

You can find very good and inexpensive larger cages now where it used to take a lot of money to get a big cage.

The cage you are looking at doesn't have enough room for perches and toys or food dishes.


This size isn't a bad size for a cockatiel. I can't speak on the cage itself or how it's built but the size isn't horrible. I prefer them wider personally.

My IRN likes both of these, especially the sphere:
Option 1 and
Option 2

Bird Carrier

This is the carrier I bought! Overall, I really like it. I’ve had it a little over three months, and I can take it anywhere. I would say I probably wouldn’t putting anything bigger than a cockatiel in there for trips longer than quick trips to the vet.

Sure! https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Foraging-Systems-Sphere-Diameter/dp/B001MWZF7S/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1495214434&sr=8-23&keywords=small+parrot+foraging+toy

> www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063446M/

Directly from the link


Drinkwell Original Pet Fountain
by Water & Feed

Vision Bird Cage Model M02 - Medium
This is nice

https://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Corporation-BLX0787-Quick-Lock/dp/B000I6ORHS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=blue+bird+bath+bowl+parrot&qid=1570994740&sr=8-1

I have this one for one of my lovebirds. http://www.amazon.com/Vision-Bird-Cage-Model-M02/dp/B0012DOXEI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_11?ie=UTF8&refRID=09T6HVTAE6NC3DFDGJ0K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714KS7LP?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=XPVTWZ041Q9FWD0J7J7V

one more thing and i will stop harassing you. You should weigh your bird every day using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ZIEIS-A63SS-NMP-Accuracy-Capacity-Stainless/dp/B0040HR28C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Why? Well in the jungle predators will always attack first whichever animal in flock that looks sick or injured. For this reason parrots instinctively HIDE any illness until they are almost dead. The only way to get early warning of illness is to weight them. Weigh her every day at the same time. IF she drops 10% get her to a Vet THAT DAY if less watch closely and maybe go in for checkup. Also you should find an AVIAN vet ahead of time. Regular vets only get like 1 week on birds in school(many claim bird knowledge to get more $). See here: https://www.beautyofbirds.com/recommendedbirdvetsvirginia.html

Also, they love cheek rubs and tapping on top of head with 2 fingers :-) have fun