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Its tough but you need to convince your customers first. I ran routes that included small restaurants and larger food processing plants. Outside of our three warmest months, I rarely touched a B&G. I used monitors and baits. I carried a tool bag instead of a B&G. In the bag was ant, cockroach and rodent baits along with snap traps, insect monitors as well as putty knives for inspecting. I also had a brush or two for some light cleaning. ect. IPM is not the elimination of pesticides but rather the selection of low impact products and techniques. The most striking examples of IPM appear in cases where you do Monthly Services or "maintenance treatments. A good example is when you run into cove base. You COULD spay the surface of that cove base with a given residual. How long do you think that residual will las in a typical office setting? The reality is that you MAY get 15 -21 days of detectable amounts from the cove base. Conditions vary. But look at that cove base pic again. Do you see how the bottom of the cove base forms a small half tunnel as it meets the floor? That is an EXCELLENT highway for most pests. Remember that the mass of a pest's time is spent hidden as much as they can. This tunnel is like a hidden highway.That is a BETTER place for your insecticide. So in this scenario, let's say there are pavement ant under the slab of this office. They keep pushing out their little grains of sand. Consider this alternative treatment. In my tool bag I kept a pack of post it notes and an old letter opener.I would walk through the office checking my monitors and speaking with people about their pest sitings In this example, we have a large office on a slab and pavements ants are the main pest. As I go, I place a post it on or near the "hot spots" of the pavement ant activity. I go back out,and get my Getts duster ( or have it with me in a ziplock freezer bag with me.) From my tool bag I pull out an old letter opener. I go to these "hot spots" and sit down right on the floor next to the "hot spot." I take my old letter opener and slip it under the "lip" in the cove base where it meets the floor.I pry up that lip and slip the stem of the duster in where I pried it up (kind of like a shoe horn.) I pivot the duster so the stem is parallel with the wall (as much as possible) and give the duster a gentle squeeze. If you watch you will see a small amount of dust puff at seams ext in the cove base about 6 or 8 feet to the right. You now have covered 6 or 8 feet to your right. Pivot the duster to the left and repeat. You have covered the cove base for about 16 feet. 16 feet will cover most any "hot spot." Mind you, I only do this at hot spots, not the entire building. Its a bit more work but in a few monthly visits, you will cover the mass of the issue. I assure you this is far more effective, especially if you return to those hot spots next month with a boric acid or DE kind of product. You can just do a couple of these old hot spots on each visit while knocking down new ones. I assure you...treating cove base in this manner is far more effective, lasts far longer and your customer isn't exposed to your insecticide like they would be if you were spraying the surface of the cove base. This seems like a lot of work but it WILL pay dividends in the long run in fewer call backs and reduced liability.

TL;DR Try insect growth regulators, and find ways to dehumidify the house (and keep the dehumidifier drain pan emptied). Boric acid or diatomaceous earth with a puff hand duster in wall voids, under sinks, behind electrical outlets.

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Ask the pest control company if they applied any insect growth regulator. If they didn't (and maybe just to be sure) get some Gentrol Point Source discs. Put them on every wall of every room you have cockroaches in, and the other side of the wall on rooms next to the rooms where you've seen cockroaches. And under every sink.

Get a hand powder duster like this one https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Diatomaceous-Powder-Duster-Extension/dp/B01LRMN9ZM/ . Fill with diatomaceous earth or boric acid or both depending on your comfort with toxicity and whether you have kids or pets or anyone with asthma in the house. Do some reading on this, I'm not an expert. Unscrew and remove your electrical outlet plates, and send a couple puffs in each outlet. Then replace the outlet plates. Also use the hand duster to puff in the cracks that you have mentioned.

I tried putting dabs of gel bait in back of the outlet plates as well. (edited to say that someone else on another thread said I shouldn't do that because the bait is wet and there's an electrical hazard)

Did pest control treat every room in the house, or just the kitchen? If they were focusing on the kitchen, that's probably where they applied most of the pesticides. Have pest control come back and treat any room where you've seen roaches. Or ask which pesticide they've been using, and see if they can switch to another in case the smokybrown roaches are resistant. Most of the over the counter products I've seen seem to have Fipronil, so it's possible that if the previous residents were only using roach motels instead of calling an exterminator, that they have become resistant to that specific pesticide. Someone on another thread said Fipronil is generally a good pesticide.

Have you been plugging the drains at night? That's one potential way that roaches could be getting in the house. As a random idea, try putting glue boards down at night in the sinks of the rooms where you see the most roaches.

Are there any dripping faucets or sources of humidity beyond that of a Texas summer? Can you install a dehumidifier and frequently empty out the drain pan? Apparently water and plant material are the main things smoky brown roaches are attracted to.

It's also possible that since smoky brown roaches aren't attracted to food like peanut butter, that the roaches aren't eating the bait the exterminator is putting out. Is there stuff in the attic they might be eating? I know that most Texas houses don't have basements.

You'll need a gallon pump sprayer to apply these

https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-Multi-Purpose-Fertilizers-Household/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538933229&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gallon+pump+sprayer&dpPl=1&dpID=31nZAc-4wJL&ref=plSrch

Alpine wsg is a pesticide with a super high transfer rate. Can be mixed up to 30 grams a gallon for interior treatments

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-WSG-Gram-Pour-Bottle/dp/B01GKMHIM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932232&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alpine+wsg&dpPl=1&dpID=41d4g8YLSML&ref=plSrch

Archer insect growth regulator mixed at 2 ounces per gallon (mix with alpine)

https://www.amazon.com/Archer-Insect-Growth-Regulator-16/dp/B004H0I1HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932452&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=archer+igr&dpPl=1&dpID=4115-aiourL&ref=plSrch

You'll need to use a gel bait. Best applied in commonly found harborage areas like around warm, moist areas, (the mechanical workings of refrigerator, behind stoves, in cabinets, under sinks, any other areas you commonly see them) place the bait in pea sized drops, and use more then you think you'll need. The idea is if they eat the bait, come back looking for more, wwr want it to be the for them to find

https://www.amazon.com/Advion-Cockroach-Bait-4-syringes-1-06/dp/B002Y2GNVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538933296&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=advion+cockroach+gel+bait&dpPl=1&dpID=416aZuQSD4L&ref=plSrch


A good dust for void applications is alpine or delta dust. Applied with a bulb duster.

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Killigans-Insecticide-Diatomaceous-Insecticides/dp/B01C36EMNO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538933173&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bulb+duster&dpPl=1&dpID=510hCV2bsnL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Dust-Control-Green-Product/dp/B007PI4KKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932768&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alpine+dust&dpPl=1&dpID=51NCSADMxqL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Dust-Multi-Control-Insecticide/dp/B002Y6B4A8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932782&sr=8-2π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=alpine+dust&dpPl=1&dpID=31fGp0QNQjL&ref=plSrch

These products are great for areas you can't reach or see like inside walls. You'd remove outlet covers, lights switch covers etc. Place tip of duster inside the wall, and "blow" the dust inside the wall.

A few things to look for after applying, firstly, dead cockroaches show they're getting in the product. Also, the growth regulator will mutate the females appearance, curling the wings on their backs. Seeing these will also give you a clue you're applying the product in the correct place. All of these products are expensive, but when applied correctly will be very effective at solving your problem. Good luck to you

I did a little homework on your illegal chinese roach bait and it contains the same active ingredient (fipronil) as many legal baits do in the U.S. I recommend Advance Roach Gel Bait. I'm sure our asian friend's product was cheaper since it bypassed all the EPA, FDA, and Dept of Agriculture testing, permits and licenses but this stuff will work as well if not better. I apply the bait in pea size dots around the entire home, paying special attention to cabinets, behind refrigerators, microwaves and other appliances that generate heat. 2-3 tubes will usually cover 2000sq/ft so a couple for you and a couple for the neighbor (each box contains 4 tubes) and you're in business. Also apply Boric Acid (a safe powder) behind the fridge where the compressor are is as roached will flock to this area. You can also get a can of Raid to hit any cracks where you know roaches hide for faster control. Just remember - where you spray, don't bait and where you bait, don't spray. As with any pesticide, check with your local, state and federal laws and always apply in a manner consistent with the product's label. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions.

Buy some glue traps from Amazon (These were the brand my pest control technician used, they are not baited glue traps, but it sticks it works: https://www.amazon.com/d/Pest-Control-Traps/Catchmaster-Spider-Insect-Scorpion-Sticky/B002Y6GAN4 ) place them on the floors along the walls and i guess on your toilet too if you think you were seeing poop there. If there is a problem, sooner or later one of your traps will have something and you can show it to your building manager and their pest control. Let your building manager know asap you suspect a roach issue, at least then he can start making appointments to get them out to your apartment and see if they spot anything.

In the mean time, I recommend

1. reading the sticky as well as other posts particular by a user dragonfly(?), since he did DYI with baiting with Advion Gel and IGR sprays. But hopefully your building manager will take responsibility for this and pay for it.
   
2. I would NOT mention you think it is brown branded, since it can imply you had brought it in rather than the building being at fault (idk weird/cheap minds) and plus it may steer your tech in the wrong direction (some material is better on germans vs. brown banded apparently).
   
3. Look at microwave,stove, coffee maker, to see if they are hiding under or even in them (coffee maker seems to be a common place from other posts).
   
   If your building manager does pay for the pest control, some tips:
   
   
4. have good conversation with the technician and ask what kind of material they are using, some keywords for the spray my guy used was Alpine WSG, Tekko Pro, Phantom and IGR (MUST HAVE THIS it inhibits their growth, aka no baby roaches).
   
5. If he might have glue traps (so you dont have to keep buying your own) to set out to really monitor the situation after the spray.
   
6. Mention you've read about baiting and see if that may be an option for treatment down the line (you can approach this after your first spray, since i'd imagine its hard to address this is the roach issue is not yet confirmed).
   
   I was fortunate to have a good tech who conversed with me via text with all the questions I had to understand the material.
   
   My studio was suspected of german vs. brown branded since I only had nymphs and look pretty similar at that stage. If they are adult its easier to identify, so the glue traps will help either way. If it is brown branded, then it is not limited to only wet areas like kitchen and restrooms unfortunately, they like EVERYTHING. Did extensive search online when my pest control guy suspected brown branded. They do not need as much water as the typical german, so are okay to venture into bedroom spaces and hide in electronics and other spaces.

Remember the golden rule. If you see it on a surface; you've applied too much. Don't smash it down or else it will create a mess. I hold it towards the back and pinch down the top with my thumb. It sends a very small amount of dust out. An almost invisible amount.

Bellows dusters are inexpensive and there is something to be said for how that function.. however, for cockroaches I highly suggest using a bulb duster. It works at many different angles, much easier to squeeze, and the one I use comes with attachments. Perfect for C&C treatments!

Here's the best one I've found and have used for years:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0H6CC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_gr3EDb3HDC40S

in this situation pest control is only money wasted, if you get rid of these squirrels others will move into this territory.

The only hope is to enclose the cable in something that they can't chew through. Don't know if soft wrapping will help, but it seems that if it's soft it will be great for a nest too.

for the thicker parts with jumper cables I would use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-8660-Single-Handy/dp/B000BQL3OU/
with a cover.

Also I know it’s not magic but I put out some granule , if it does work how long does it take to lower the population ? I ended up getting Maxforce Complete Brand Granular Insect Bait 4 lb Bottle BA1097 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HFNDYO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ERJkDb7EE6RC1 .

I used the sprinkle thing that it has on the jar but only very little comes out at a time , do I need to go ham ? Lol

Also I was following what you said about putting it further away from the base of the house since I will be spraying. But the instructions on most of these things say put it as a perimeter defense on the foundation , why is that ? I’m afraid of attracting more bugs instead

Edit : btw thank you for taking the time to respond

Oh wow that scares me even further... I just really hope I can fix at least the expensive electronics.

I could see them eating glue, because they have been hanging out near my wooden TV stand where the Xbox sits on and has more electronics. And of course they are all in the kitchen. I see them go underneath the cabinets, under the dishwasher, under the oven etc.

I have a cat and he’s 18 so food and water fountain have to stay out but they rarely go near that because I keep it clean often and I pick up his food sometimes if he’s napping. All other food we are trying to keep sealed, I know the oven has so much residue in it that I can’t even get to. It’s an oven from like the 70s no joke.

What we have done for the past few years is use these liquid baits and they usually have stayed far away from our apartment unit. I’d put out about 12-18 of them throughout the 2 rooms, living room and kitchen and we would NEVER see them unless they were dead.

So I have those everywhere but that’s all I’ve done. I went and bought some of this liquid spray for all the entries and under things. Then I got some borax tablets too. I also picked up some diatomaceous earth for sprinkling because there are so many cracks and crevices I can’t reach with a vacuum or to clean.

Thank you so much for your reply.

They look like the bigger roaches that come in when it rains, I live in the south and we get them time to time (thats what my landlord told me when i moved in) now below is what i did to get rid of them and it worked pretty well.

1.Buy stick traps put them along all the walls along every wall, in closets, behind toilets, in bathrooms, under hotwater heater.....for example my 2 bed 2 bath apartment had 40-50 stick traps in them

https://www.amazon.com/Brown-Recluse-Spider-Traps-non-toxic/dp/B00LW21RNY/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1537555407&sr=1-7&keywords=sticky+traps

2. Get delta dust and a bulb sprayer and spray into the cracks, under the baseboards, and into the wall space anywhere that the bulb duster can get. Watch youtube videos on how to apply it. You can use it outside since its also water proof

3. Get a sprayer and pesticide and spray the the foundation in the cracks of the house.

https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Suspend-Insecticide-Roaches-Professional/dp/B002Y57MGE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537555319&sr=8-3&keywords=pesticide

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4. I forget, Avon Roach Gel, buy on amazon and apply as direct works well .

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Since I haven't seen it here yet, a good way to kill any roaches and prevent reinfestation is by using Cimexa dust. Buy a duster and some Cimexa and lightly dust the interior of the ps4 through the air vents. Bonus points if you open it up and dust the inside too. Watch some videos on dusting appliances so you get a feel for how little you need to use to be effective. This Cimexa is not a poison but rather it dehydrates the insects and doesn't harm electronics. Best part is you can use it in other areas of infestation as well.

If you decide to go this route make sure you use a dust mask when applying and read the label on the Cimexa bottle before you use it. It's not poison but I'm you still don't want to put it somewhere where someone could breathe it in so make sure you know how to apply it before you so.

sounds like either humans or pets or rodents. grab a flashlight, and open up your bottom cabinets, look for rodent feces. check any cracks/gaps around the kitchen area.

if you need to thaw them, use a breadbox or stick em in the warmest part of the fridge. something like that https://www.amazon.com/Home-Stainless-kitchen-storage-16-5x10x8/dp/B00O5AHWDO

You will be fine. Don’t consume anything that was open. Wipe down all counters. And don’t use a flea bomb next time. Try this. It’s an amazing product. The company I work for has a renowned R&D team, we test almost every product on the market to see what we should use in our protocol. This is our winner.

You can probably find cheaper elsewhere.

Alpine flea and bed bug spray is what we use and it's extremely effective. Follow the label exactly.

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Flea-Bed-Pressurized-Insecticide/dp/B005YP8BTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=pt+alpine+flea&qid=1570974091&sr=8-3

You can.

Use this: http://www.amazon.com/PT-Alpine-Flea-Pressurized-Insecticide/dp/B005YP8BTS

Read the label twice and follow the directions.

these