(Part 2) Best products from r/photocritique
We found 21 comments on r/photocritique discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 143 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
24. CowboyStudio NPT-04 4 Channel Wireless Trigger for External Speelights with 1 Trigger and 2 Receivers (NPT-04+extra receiver)
One (1) NPT-04 TriggerTwo (2) NPT-04 ReceiversA standard 1/4" screw mount on each receiver
26. Panasonic Lumix 4K Digital Camera with 30X LEICA DC Vario-ELMAR Lens F3.3-6.4, 18 Megapixels, and High Sensitivity Sensor - Point and Shoot Camera - DMC-ZS60K (BLACK)
30x (24 720mm) LEICA DC Lens optical zoom performance is ideally suited for travel and everyday photography18 Megapixel sensor delivers high resolution photos with fewer image artifacts4K Ultra HD video recording plus exclusive LUMIX 4K PHOTO and 4K Post Focus photo capture featuresEye level Electro...
27. Manfrotto MKBFRA4-BH BeFree Compact Aluminum Travel Tripod Black
Light and compact design. The special design of this tripod with head ensures your camera stays firmly locked in position.Supports up to 8.8lbsDesigned to fit into carry-on luggage and backpacks
28. Manfrotto Compact Light Aluminum 4-Section Tripod Kit with Ball Head, Black (MKCOMPACTLT-BK)
Extremely compact so you can take it anywhereBall head with one knob to lock all adjustmentsQuick and easy camera connection with the wheel attachmentEasy to transport, highly portable thanks to padded carrying bag
29. Neewer Off Camera Single Speedlight Flash ShoeMount Swivel Soft Umbrella Kit for Canon 430EX II,580EX II,600EX-RT,Nikon SB600 SB800 SB900,Youngnuo YN 560,YN 565,Neewer TT560,TT680,TT850,TT860
The kit included:(1)33"/84cm Translucent White Soft Umbrella+(1)Shoemount B-Type Brackets+(1)6.89 feet/210cm Light standThis professional studio kit is perfect for shooting with speedlight flash unit.(1)33"/84cm Translucent White Soft Umbrella:The umbrellas can deliver great skin tone and contrast c...
30. Manfrotto PIXI Mini Tripod, Black (MTPIXI-B)
- Mini tripod for Compact System Cameras
- Comfortable handgrip to capture great videos
- Push button locking mechanism for easy setup
- Lightweight, intuitive to use and easy to carry
- Attractive Italian design
Features:
31. Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter Compatible with Tamron Adaptall (Adaptall-2) Mount SLR Lens on Fuji X-Mount Cameras
- Mounts Tamron Adaptall (Adaptall-2) Mount SLR Lenses to FUJI X-mount mirrorless cameras
- High-tolerance precision craftsmanship; infinity focus or beyond allowed
- All-metal design; hardened anodized aluminum construction
- Premium grade Fotodiox adapter
- 24-Month Fotodiox Warranty
Features:
32. Light: Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting
- Noise-isolating design enhances music and computer gaming experience
- Hands-free mic ideal for online gaming and communication
- Patented oval ear tips = comfortable wear for hours
- Includes: VOIP/Gaming adaptor (compatible w/ PC & MAC), Zipper carrying case, 3 sets oval ear-tips (med, large, small/med dual flange)
- Color: Black with red accents, 2-year warranty
Features:
33. Rokinon FE8M-N 8mm F3.5 Fisheye Fixed Lens for Nikon (Black)
- B002LTWDSK
- 180 degrees angle of view
- Built-in petal type hood
- 10 Elements in 7 groups
- Aperture range of F/3.5 ~ 22. NOTE: To ensure proper fit with your compatible device, please set camera to manual mode and the aperture must be changed on the lens itself.
Features:
34. XCSOURCE 24pcs Square Full Colors ND2/ND4/ND8 Filters + Graduated G.ND2 G.ND4 G.ND8 Filter Set + 9 Size Adapter Ring (49/52/55/58/62/67/72/77/82MM) +1 PCS Filter Holder for cokin p Series LF078
Control light and colour directly on your raw images at the time of shootingKeep the quality of your images without excessive post production workCreate specific effects saving time on your computerSame filter for all your lenses by just replacing the adaptor ringRotate, slide, decentre in all direc...
36. Yongnuo RF-602 2.4GHz Wireless Flash Synchronized Trigger Remote Control for Nikon SB-900, SB-800, SB-600, SB-28, SB-27, SB-26, SB-25, SB-24 Cameras
Using global free 2.4GHz channel and FSK modulation system, and there's 15 selectabh frequency channels. Flash sync speed is up to 1/250s. Maximum operating distance is up to 100 meters.Support the flashgun wake-up function; you'll never miss any shot opportunity. (Wake up can only used in TTL Compa...
37. Understanding Exposure, Fourth Edition: How to Shoot Great Photographs with Any Camera
Watson-Guptill Publications
38. 52MM 0.43x Altura Photo Professional HD Wide Angle Lens (w/Macro Portion) for Nikon D7100 D7000 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D3300 D3200 D3100 D3000 DSLR Cameras
- LENS ATTACHMENT: Easily screws on to the front of your lens, and instantly expands the field of view for breathtaking wide-angle photography. Features a detachable macro lens for extremely high-resolution close-ups of small objects.
- LENS COMPATIBILITIES: Popular 52MM Lens models including Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR II, Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G, Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 is Macro STM, Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM, Canon EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM, Sigma 30mm F1.4 Contemporary DC DN for Canon EF-M, Sigma 30mm F1.4 Contemporary DC DN for Sony E, FUJIFILM XC 15-45mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS PZ, FUJIFILM XF 35mm f/1.4 R, Panasonic Lumix G Vario 45-150mm f/4-5.6 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S.
- CAMERA MODELS: NIKON DSLR D5 D500 D610 D750 D810 D850 D3500 D3400 D3300 D3200 D3100 D5600 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D7500 D7200 D7100. Also compatible with the Canon EOS M Compact System Mirrorless Cameras M3 M5 M6 M10 M50 M100 M200 .
- NOTE: PLEASE VERIFY YOUR CAMERA'S LENS THREAD SIZE BEFORE ORDERING. This Wide-Angle is compatible with 52MM lenses only. Lens sizes vary regardless of camera brand or model. Your camera's lens thread size will be marked somewhere on the lens barrel or printed underneath your lens cap. This number is always preceded by a ''Ø'' (diameter) symbol. For example: Ø52= 52mm lens thread size.
- SATISFACTION GUARANTEED: Backed by Our 90-Day Satisfaction Guarantee.
Features:
39. Learning to See Creatively, Third Edition: Design, Color, and Composition in Photography
- Amphoto Books
Features:
40. NEEWER 32-Inch 80CM Portable 5 in 1 Translucent, Silver, Gold, White, and Black Collapsible Round Multi Disc Light Reflector for Studio or any Photography Situation
Kit Includes: (1) 5-in-1 Reflector (1) Carrying CaseGreat Compatibility: These reflectors can fit any standard reflector holdersGold: Warm up the picture; Silver: Brighten the picture; White: Bounce light into shadows; Black: Block out unwanted light; Translucent: soften light, often used overheadDu...
Food photography is all about textures, and for that you need strong light, so this is pretty flat and doesn't entice us with the creaminess of the ice cream, and even the sparkle of the glass can make it more appetizing. Our eyes naturally seek contrast, so giving them what they want in that regard just enhances the overall viewing experience. Also, get closer so we can see every creamy fold and chocolatey sprinkle.
Desserts are tough. Any commercial image you see of ice cream isn't ice cream, it wouldn't last under the lights. Which brings us to styling. It has to look perfect, so no smudges on the rim of the glass, the sprinkles need to be arranged perfectly, and the scoop on top needs to really look heroic.
If you really want to get into food photography I highly recommend assisting. For now, get this book, in which a few of my images are featured :) There's a Kindle edition as well. It will show you a lot of great tips and secrets for making your food shots look irresistible.
Ninja edit to add a note about desserts.
I don't think you can force a style upon yourself without blatantly copying someone else.
Based on the style you are currently shooting in, the fact that you have only 38 photos on flickr, and your approximate age (assuming you are the subject in the photos), you need to shoot a lot more.
Keep shooting the way you do maybe. Try to improve your technique both at the camera and at the computer in photoshop while thinking critically about what you like/don't like about your work. Your style will develop organically as you introduce or take away things that are either lacking or over pronounced in your work. Eventually you fill find a way of working that really flows well for you.
I think the best advice is to move slowly and try not to get too frustrated with yourself if you dislike your results.
There is a theory that it takes 10000 hours to master any craft: source. That's a lot of time, but think of any truly talented person you follow. People don't wake up one day with flawless photographic technique, much like someone that runs casually will not be taking any medals in the olympics.
Concepts may appear out of the blue, but the ability to translate it exactly as you wish into any artistic space is really the holy grail of any artform. And it takes a lot of practice.
Practice practice practice :D
Just try to be uncompromising while keeping yourself conscious of every artistic decision you make. Your style will flow out of you with little effort if you are practiced and confident.
And don't fake it - we'll know ;) :D :D
Definitely a biased subject, but that's a good thing in the long run. It just makes learning to be critical initially hard, because it's difficult for any parent to go "Wow, my kids look like ass here." Not that they look like ass here, but that's the mentality you will have to develop.
Any photographer will produce their best work when given subjects they're passionate about. Your kids are a subject you are passionate about, and are going to put in the extra work to photograph. Keep photographing them.
The time for passion and zero judgement is when you're actually shooting and making images. At your workstation, the critic has to be the predominant force. John Cleese has a talk on youtube about creativity and the two modes, if you're interested.
Here's one of my favorite books on composition. It has virtually nothing about the camera itself or workflow, except insofar as it applies to composition itself. Short, focused, and dense with information/examples.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0817454195/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get more level with the object, and throw in some catch-lights. As for keeping the background true black, you can place a piece of flat cardboard on the end of each light box to discourage light from going to the side instead of just straight out. We call them flags, but I like to call them blinders. Call them anything you like, it's your studio.
Lastly, invest the best you can with two [Yongnuo flashes] (http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-560-Standard-Shoe-Flash/dp/B004GZNBH4/ref=sr_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171284&sr=1-16) and a [Cowboy Studio radio transmitter set] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171336&sr=1-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger).
I have the flashes I linked to and they are fabulous - been through a lot with them and they are still going strong. Yongnuo has a ton of different types of flashes, so you have a plethora to choose from depending on what you're looking for.
Lastly, should you be into the flash option, I would say you can save yourself the trouble of outfitting them both with transmitters and just have one with the transmitter and one on S (slave) mode.
Yeah, you should, but I don't think it's hurting you in the meantime. If you can't afford 3-4 lenses and a fancy camera body yet, there's also some amazing point and shoots with manual settings and really good sensors, and they work with standard flasshes etc.
I have this one and I love it. These used to go for around 600 bucks and they're really good in low light situations
just a thought :)
If you didn't turn IS off it can over react and correct for vibrations that aren't there. Newer lenses are supposed to detect tripods and "park" the IS group but if it's on a tripod you might as well just turn IS off. You also definitely want to be in manual focus mode. You can use liveview to zoom in on a distant pinpoint light source to truly nail infinity focus.
A $25 walmart tripod can also do this.
A $60 manfrotto would help. But I'd recommend buying a nicer one with a removable plate.
Make sure your camera strap wasn't hanging/blowing in the wind I always gaff tape mine to the tripod so it doesn't blow in the wind like a damn sail.
Going deeper you can install magic lantern and use mirror lock up (the T5/T5i might have it built in). When the mirror swings out of the way it causes small vibrations. That's not your problem here but the mirror is another source of vibrations that you can eliminate. But for this shot you wouldn't notice a difference just FYI in the future.
Good for you for braving the cold and getting a nice photo! I shoot weddings and have found a small umbrella with a stand is the easiest way to "run and gun" those types of images. This set-up is a cheap and easy one and it's basically what I use whenever I need to travel light but still want great flexibility. Shooting through an open umbrella will soften your light and make your flash "bigger" without producing as harsh a shadow. Shoot through the umbrella collapsed and you'll get a smaller lightsource but still softer than direct flash. Check out this Strobist 101 article on umbrellas. Honestly, one of the best parts about umbrellas is they're relatively cheap for the beating they will take when you're out making great pics!
Sounds like you've got plenty to work on already. It takes time and effort to cover the basics, so don't feel like you need to get everything at once.
Concentrate on consistently making well-exposed, technically sound images first. Then you can start thinking about the next steps in making more powerful images. In the meantime, you'll be learning a lot without even realizing it.
Critique, in my view, is best when you've already exhausted the low-hanging fruit of beginner efforts. You'll know when you really need outside help.
Also, for a cheap tripod that's super useful and lots of fun, try this mini guy from Monfrotto: http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-MTPIXI-B-PIXI-Tripod-Black/dp/B00D76RNLS
I've one of the adaptors linked below for both a canon FD -> Fuji and Tamron -> Fuji. The Tamron is a great macro for my needs. It way too short for insects and the like but im not into that.
I also have a old canon 135mm f2.8 that is equivalent to 200mm. I picked the lens up super cheap and gives acceptable results. However, it can't match my previous canon 200mm L.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BBIAUW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well, the idea is good, if maybe a little corny, as other posters mentioned.
The execution is not bad per se. You haven't done anything wrong here, but something like this is really hard to get right. I guess balloons just don't make for good subjects in a studio?
Have you read a book called Light: Science and Magic? It's a really really good book about lighting, and lighting different subjects with different light and angles and all sorts of details. It might be able to help you here :)
ah awesome. That's probably it. interesting. i've read about the adapters but never bothered to buy them. I've been meaning to try fisheye myself and thinking of just buying a cheap lens. the rokinon 8mm f/3.5 is supposedly pretty good, and by lens standards, cheap.
you have the composition right. good shot.
If you've been reading lots of blogs and watching tutorials I'm sure you've been picking up lots already. Some general things are the rules of composition, which aren't really defined but you can find some here. But as others have been saying you don't need to follow the rules, they can just make it easier, or if you feel something is off about a photo but can't tell what, it may be them.
If you're more interested in long exposure then maybe you might want to get a set of filters like [these](XCSOURCE 24pcs Square Full + Graduated Filter Set + 9 Size Adapter Ring Filter Holder for cokin p series LF78 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008H34H88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pJElhsd8NFhbB) you might not need all the colours but the ND filters at least I really like because they let you take long exposures during the day.
I think what you're really missing here is proper lighting. The valley is shaded except for that lip of sunlight in the back-right of the photo. You can play around with some color settings to try to get what you're looking for, but I don't think it'll come off looking quite as natural as what you'd want.
I always suggest taking a look at Understanding Exposure.. It's a great help in learning 1) the relationships between ISO/Aperature/Shutter Speed to achieve proper exposure, and 2) how lighting affects your image.
The exposure seems correct for the lighting situation, but the timing/composition is where you missed the boat on this particular shot. Good work, though, composition just comes down to lots of practice and exposing yourself to other photographers' works!
Sure. I would buy the cheapest Yongnuo flash i could find, just to experiment.
How about this flash $71 - YN560-IV - Amazon
And then for firing it off camera $23 - YONGNUO RF-602 - Amazon
If you are in the US, this is a good way to try out flash photography with off-camera flash for under $100. I just goggled this quickly so there may be even cheaper/better options, but i'm confident this would let you learn manual flash techniques and be a lot of fun! (Just remember to buy rechargeable batteries, otherwise you'll be spending a pretty penny on replacement AA batteries if you use it a lot)
Honestly, since you're just starting out, I can't recommend this book enough. I think I bought the 2nd edition when I started, and have since given it to friends (and even bought a copy for a good friend when she was starting out). It's fantastic, and will get you shooting in manual mode before you know it.
as a cheap lense for now, how would something like this do? It's super cheap and just screws onto the existing 52mm threads on the end of my lense, and the customer photos on amazon seem to be pretty good. Maybe I can pick one up just until I buy a nice lense. Food for thought I suppose.
Levelling your horizon will improve the shot somewhat. In this photo, there is foreground interest, but it fills the frame from top to bottom almost entirely. Anyway, practice makes perfect. And I highly recommend Bryan Peterson's book, Learning to See Creatively.
I just recently started using this one. Maybe not the highest quality, but I do photography just for fun right now, so there's not much point in shelling out $50 or more for a nicer one. It does the job and it's easy to carry.
The standard Bible.
https://www.amazon.ca/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera/dp/1607748509/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1510675108&sr=1-1&keywords=Understanding+Exposure&dpID=51RRgrqGUgL&preST=_SX258_BO1,204,203,200_QL70_&dpSrc=srch