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Okay! I would definitely leave it be for 7 - 10 days so it can adjust to its new light. Gives you time to find the perfect pot 😎

When you go to repot I recommend any Fox Farm potting mix. The one I usually spring for is the Happy Frog mix because it's super versatile. You can get it at most boutique plant shops but you can also find it on Amazon:

FoxFarm FX14054 Happy Frog Potting Soil, 12 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01508YKY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Z1kDbZ7H7JYM

Hope this is helpful!

Edit: When picking a pot, clay or ceramic will do but definitely make sure it has drainage holes. I would still suggest a pebble tray for humidity even once you repot it.

Couple o' things come to mind. Obviously you've got some chlorosis which is indicative of nutrient deficiencies, the main ones probably being nitrogen, and possibly iron or magnesium. Just spitballing off the limited info I have, it can be due to...

1. The season. It's getting colder. - Peppers simply can't absorb soil nutrients when the temperature gets low and they are dormant.
   Overwintered peppers (with exceptions) often look like this.
   
   
2. Plants in containers have limited space and limited access to nutrients. Nutrients also leach out of the soil quicker; meaning the soil structure collapses and depletes more rapidly.
   
   There's many other things that can cause leaf loss and chlorosis, but honestly I think what I mentioned are the most likely culprits. Other causes can be water stress, both over and under watering, heat stress, chemical burn due to over-fertilizing or use of oil-based pesticides in hot conditions... the list goes on.
   
   I'm not sure what zone you're in or how cold it actually is where you are. If you're in zone 9b and above, you probably still have enough weeks of active growing season left to remedy this. Give it a well-rounded organic fertilizer... I've had great luck with this.
   
   Good luck friend!

Thank you for all of the helpful information. It seems that it's not as common of a plant and specific care information has been hard to come by. Question about soil mixes: do you recommend an acidic soil like an azalea mix? Or something more like the African violet mix, which is just mildly acidic and has good drainage? I was considering this one. I was looking at soil mix today and almost bought this which is primarily a peat moss mix. It was quite pricey though and I couldn't tell if it was acidic or not. I really want to get the soil right for this plant since it's already stressed out with mites. Thanks again for all of your help.

I've been fighting them on my large Dracaena for over a year.

The 'cotton-swab with alochol' method will kill the ones you find, but if the plant is of any significant size, it's pretty unlikely you'll find all of them.

The best solution I found was to buy a bunch of insecticidal soap spray concentrate like this: https://www.amazon.com/Safers-Insecticidal-Soap-500mL-Concentrate/dp/B0002J9VAO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540950829&sr=8-2&keywords=insecticidal+soap+concentrate&dpID=3163103GJ4L&preST=_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And a larger spray bottle like this: https://www.amazon.com/Solo-418-Ergonomic-Gardening-Fertilizing/dp/B000BX4VXI/ref=sr_1_10?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1540950862&sr=1-10&keywords=pump+sprayer

Then mix up a bunch, and spray the plant down every two or three days, while occasionally rinsing it with regular water sprayings.

You'll need to do this for awhile because the eggs are not vulnerable to the spray, so you need to go through at least one entire lifecycle (probably a few to catch them all).

The reason you want to rinse with water occasionally is that otherwise the soap will accumulate on the plant, and after awhile the plant doesn't photosynthesize as well with the film all over it.

The method I described works best for plants that can tolerate a fair amount of spraying. Succulents and cacti will need to go with the alcohol swab method or you risk killing them by overwatering.

More pictures would be helpful, as it looks like a pretty healthy plant overall!

Chlorine/fluoride/salts would usually cause brown tips, not spots. I think it might be fungal or bacterial.

Get some neem oil and dilute 1 part to 9 parts water. Use cotton rounds to wipe all the leaves and keep track of the brown spots. In addition to being a 100% natural fungicide and pesticide, it also makes the leaves nice and shiny!

That doesn't match with any common disease that I am aware of, though I am far from an expert on roses. Is there any evidence of the blistering on the underside of the affected leaves? Is there anything in the vicinity that could be damaging it, like a heat source, light being magnified by a window/high rise, or chemicals being aerosolized?

In the future you might consider using a 3-in-1 systemic like this. It will fight bugs and disease and provide fertilizer. The packaging says not to use on pots, but many people do (do your own research to that end). You might just use a bit less than recommended so you don't burn the plant.

Check out the list here for a rose specialist in your area who may be able to assist you. Also, if you are in the US you may have an extension office in your county (they are usually associated with your state ag school). If that is the case then definitely take them a sample.

Best of luck!

Hi OP! I just ordered a few of these today, have heard good things about them and they have some pretty solid reviews! From what I understand they fit into normal bulb sockets too which is convenient. I’m sorry I can’t comment yet on how well they work, but hopefully this helps!

100W LED Grow Light Bulb - Full Spectrum Lamp for Indoor Plants, Garden, Flowers, Vegetables, Greenhouse & Hydroponic Growing | E27 Base 150 LEDs (AC85-265V) by Haus Bright https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9W1TSZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6n8JDbXX6FHAD

The roots should be white, thick and healthy. If they smell foul or are black, you have root rot.

I usually check my pothos every week, but end up thoroughly watering (to run off) every other week depending on the season and how much light they get.

Checking for pests is literally getting up close and personal with them. If you have a jeweler's loupe, use it (cannabis cultivators always have a loupe so forgive me for assuming everyone has such an odd thing). Spider mites, mealybugs, thrips, fungus gnats, and scale are house plant's most common enemies. Learn what they look like.


I always recommend that houseplant and cannabis gardeners keep spinosad (Saccharopolyspora spinosa) on hand as it is non-toxic, safe for consumable plants, and effective against aphids, caterpillars, leaf hoppers, leaf miners, mites, soft-bodied scale, thrips, etc. I also recommend an 8 week systemic to prevent most of the pests listed from coming back (spider mites excluded.) The systemic is only rated for non-consumable plants and will need to be reapplied every eight weeks.

I've had some concerned questions about the systemic's active ingredient and its toxicity. Imidacloprid is an
odorless analog of nicotine, a chemical used in the past for controlling aphids. Imidacloprid is of low
toxicity (used in flea collars) and is classified as a "reduced risk alternative
pesticide."

Your soil looks good, with perlite added to loosen the soil and allow air to circulate, but since it's a few years old, the nutrients may be leeched out. New soil (with perlite to keep it from compacting) would give the roots a boost. If you're going to water it a little every day, as another commenter suggested, add some Mosquito Bits to the top layer of soil to prevent fungus gnats (who love wet soil!)

I mix my own; this is the neem oil I use. 1 1/2 tsp to a liter of water with a squirt of dish soap, shake well, and spray. It’s much more cost effective to buy the neem oil itself rather than pre-mixed sprays.

Neem oil is great to have on hand because not only does it act as an insecticide but it is also a fungicide. It can be used to clean leaves as well. Unfortunately it doesn’t smell nice but it is worth it.

Thanks for your advice, I'm going to start the operation this weekend!

Is there a particular type of sand/substrate you would recommend? I grabbed this from the Wiki, but would appreciate any advice you would have!

>Cacti require well-drained soil. This means a soil made of a mix of gravel, grit, sand, pearlite, or other chunky material that does not retain moisture.

> A good inexpensive and readily available base for your cacti soil is NAPA 8822 Oil Absorber. Crushed pumice, any 'high-fired' or 'calcined' diatomaceous earth or clay, or Turface is a perfect base. Any auto parts store should have a product similar to the afore mentioned NAPA 8822.

I was thinking about grabbing this from Amazon as the base soil....is there a rooting hormone or similar for cacti?

Terra cotta pots suck the soil dry, I don't use them unless it's for succulents. I would repot this in fresh potting soil inside a different container with a drainage hole. If this guy's soil usually looks this dry, and if it's more than 5ft from a super bright-ass window it won't grow. Everyone severely underestimates how close plants have to be to a window. And no growth is a sure sign of underwatering. If it was getting enough water but not enough sunlight, it would grow, just weirdly.

If you want zero guessing involved, I would read up on what that plant likes and pick up a super cheap moisture and light meter like this one from Amazon. Has saved me a lot of trouble when I have to check if a big plant is dry or if the sunlight isn't strong enough.

Unfortunately I don't have enough experience with this one to know for sure. It's tough to tell in this picture but what are the stems like?

I have this plant, just bought it this year. The nursery sold me this fertilizer for it/my other tropicals. It says you can use it every time but being paranoid I only do it every two weeks. My guys do really like it!

Out of curiosity, can you put it back in its happy place?

I water mine with this: ACM Economy Wash Bottle, LDPE, Squeeze Bottle Medical Label Tattoo (250ml / 8oz / 1 Bottle) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6M-BDbHY9AXQJ

It’s awesome!! Good luck 👍

The plant will survive. If you want to try to save the one on the right you could try something like graft wrapping like [link] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07458YBHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4SgECbMSG0EDZ), the one on the left I have little hope for.

Looking at your photo, I wonder if the lamp is too far away to make much difference. I'm just starting to experiment with grow lights myself and i think they need to be within inches. Especially in the top lamp that isn't pointing directly at the plant. Also keep in mind that those yellow leaves won't revert back so they're not a great gauge. I'd actually cut them off as they're just wasting plant energy.

If this were my plant, I'd move it closer to a window, to a spot where it can see some open sky. just move it slowly so it doesn't freak out.

I know it's possible to keep plants alive with artificial lights but they won't thrive that way. I personally like grow lights as a supplement.

I just bought one of these that I'm loving. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM4X64W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w6KIDb4WCX45Z

Yes, more light! When they stretch like that it means they need more light. There's some pretty inexpensive options on Amazon -

Grow light.

Clamp.

You might need to figure out a different way to water it. Ideally, you water enough that water comes out the bottom, and you let it drain away so that the plant doesn't sit in water. This is easier to do with a little plant that you can easily put in the sink or something while it drains.

I'm not sure what kind of potting set-up you have, but for my big plants that I can't realistically move/lift every week I have an inner pot that sits within a larger decorative pot with a plant stand in between to create a space and airflow. I will get some sitting water from drip-out, but it's not a huge deal because the plant isn't sitting in it.

When I can, I bring a big shallow plastic container over to the plant (imagine the kind of thing made for under-bed storage), put a plant stand or baker's cooling rack into the container, put the plant on top, and water it generously. After it stops dripping it goes back into the outer pot. This keeps me from having to carry a big ol tree through my house.

Have you repotted it yet? My guess is that it doesn't have much soil to keep wet. Is that a 4 inch pot? It's hard to tell.

You're right about the dryness test for watering though. The fertilizer is too strong and too often. It should be like once a month with a weaker solution. I like this one - Espoma Company INPF8 Organic Indoor Plant Food, 8 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JIRGRAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZR20CbDGK9HT1

I can tell you really care about your plant, and of course you would those are hard to find, but people have a tendency to love a plant they like to death.

has there been any improvement over the past month? HERE is an article about proper care for your plant.

You stated that you only water when it seems dry but the article suggests once a week deep watering so that may be an issue. you also dont want to risk over watering so make sure your pot has good drainage at the bottom.

I highly suggest getting one of THESE and placing it in the pot to keep an eye one the light, water, and Ph levels.

You’re overwatering and have fungus gnats. Spray some neem oil (mixed with dish soap and water) onto the soil daily for a few days and that should clear it up. Here’s the neem oil that I use.

In the future, only water when the soil is dry. This type of plant will tell you when it’s really thirsty by drooping and will perk back up within an hour or so after watering. You’ll eventually figure out how often it likes to be watered.

Mosquito Bits are little pieces of corn cob that are coated with the bacteria Bti, which is ultimately lethal to gnats and mosquitos but safe for humans, plants, and animals. Soak the pieces in water to extract the Bti into the water, then use that to water your plants.

Mosquito Bits. Sprinkle them on the top of the soil or add them to the water you use to water your plants. By far the easiest way to deal with fungus gnats and a 30z container could last for years.

Could be thrips. I battled thrips in my monstera for months, tried EVERYTHING. Then a nice lady working at my favorite nursery told me to try this: https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Product-951-Systemic-Control/dp/B000BX1HKI

ONLY thing that has worked once and for all.

I bought this one and I really like it!

A systemic preventive. Like this

Bonide (BND951) - Systemic House... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BX1HKI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No tips on the yellowing but, as far as the fungus gnats go, I bought mosquito bits, let it sit in my watering can (with water, of course, overnight) and then used it to top water my plants and they went away. mosquito bits

When I had a serious infestation going on I baked the soil in the oven, placed yellow sticky traps on the re-potted plants, and used https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Product-951-Systemic-Control/dp/B000BX1HKI. It was def time intensive but it scaled back the amount of fungus gnats I was seeing to the occasional 1 or 2.