Best products from r/pools

We found 35 comments on r/pools discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 154 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/pools:

u/Windadct · 1 pointr/pools

Well - first off, everything is much newer and in better shape than I expected.
Like I said you should be able to get copies of all of the manuals ( if you do not already have them) on line. In particular the pump/strainer and the filter.
If the pool is just green, and not too much real debris, you can probably get it running as soon as you fill it up. Even if you keep it covered, I would get it up an running so you can learn about everything now.

Pics - 1&8 Muriatic Acid, very strong, and it is hazardous, but also very effective. I prefer using this. As for the condition, it is probably OK...

2 - Fountain , yes decorative only

3 - Liner cleaner, I am assuming the pool needs to be empty to use this. If there is a date on it and less than 2-3 years you could keep it. You may have a ring on the liner where the water level is now. This may help. - but I have not used this and do not know how damaging it is if a little gets into the water.

4 - > Looks like a handle, perhaps for maintenance of something. ( ref the manuals)

5 - No idea, looks serious and like a lot of it. Check the manuals.

6&10, 13-no label, double wrap in heavy plastic bag, and trash it. ( if inside it is tablets then it is chlorine - I would keep tablets, but any unmarked powers, granular, liquids - trash)

7- Pretty sure this is the vacuum cleaner attachment, you set this on top of the skimmer, and connect the vacuum hose for suction.

9 - Yes it is a part you probably want, it may be a discharge fitting to help with draining the pool.

11 - the safer alternative to the Nuriatic acid. Worth keeping.

12 - just an another alternate. Since it has a label it should say specifically what the chemical is. ( Keep for now)

14 - no idea, too small to be for the pump. Perhaps a charging cable for the fountain?

15 - I agree - looks to be the same part, but one may have come with the skimmer, and one with the vacuum. Keep

16 - Same ( they may fit different size vacuum hoses, etc.)

17 Keep

18 - too blurry, but also looks like lube ( did the previous owner have a boat?)

19 - the pole on the vacuum ( background) has spring buttons, so the pole is used for the skimmer net, brushes and the vacuum.

20 - no idea - have fun

22 - that looks like the type of brush used to clean a boat ( more evidence) If he had a boat the Lube in 5 and possibly 18, may also explain 20)

23 - the hose going to the Strainer Backet will be connected to the SKimmer on the side of the pool. ( that is the intake,)

  • The other hose should go to the filter

    24 -25 - Yes - the Strainer basket, pump and pump motor are all one assembly. ( Is the electrical cord terminated with a reguar plug??)

    Looks to be in OK shape - but not the cleanest / neatest assembly.

    26 - Yes - filter

    27 - Pressure gauge ( indicates how dirty the filter is, but also that there is water flowing - etc)

    28 - Paper cartridge filter ( what I can see looks to be in good shape) - when you get up and running this should be very low to little maintenance over the course of a summer. But for now - get up and running as it is, when the pool clears up - you may want to remove and hose this down. - will take about 20 minutes.

    29 - Yes - I have an in-ground with paper - and have been amazed how well these work and how little maintenance. I have not replaced mine, I give them a good cleaning in the fall when I close.

    30-31 - Yep

    32 - Yep - check both ends of the hose for the fit.

    36 - Yep ( may want to replace this)

    37 - this one is newer and a little prettier - and has the deluxe termo!

    38 - Skimmer basket - take to the pool store and get a new one.

    39 - Plug for winterizing - this will plug the wall nozzle ( return)

    40 -- Bottom of the Skimmer - see the same plug type.

    45 - Skimmer net (doe not go IN the Skimmer) just what I call it...- not perfect, use this for the clean up and get a new one for regular maintenance in the future. ( so you do not beat up a new on doing the initial cleaning)

    OK -- so like I said not too bad....

    Connections --
    Side Skimmer hose - to strainer basket on the pump. Exit of the pump with hose to the filter housing, will need to check the manual for which in the inlet and outlet on the filter housing (probably labeled though). Hose from exit of filter to the nozzle on the side next to the skimmer ( Pic 43). ( You should have three hose sections - to do this)

    If you can get a small water pump, like a sump pump wihhout the float switch. LIKE THIS - you will use this over the winters to keep the water off of the cover in the future. ( There are automatic ones - but I have found that a basic pump like this - and turning it on manually lasts longer and costs less - it is OK to have water on the cover for a short period of time, you just do not want it on there to grow stuff collect debris)

    Pump the water off of the cover, then remove it.

    Hard to tell really how bad the water in the pool is - but I would probably go ahead and use that and top it off, instead of completely draining and refilling.

    If you want to empty it completely - you can use the pump, but may need to rearrange the hoses to get one long enough to go over the wall and to the bottom. ( I guess you could hook up the vacuum - but this will slow down the process)

    The important thing is to make sure the pump has water when you turn it on. You will probably have to prime it, by filling the strainer basket with the garden hose and then replace the cover.

    Monitor the pump when starting up and make sure it does not run empty after this for more than 1 minute or so - it may take some time to get the water flowing if you are using the vacuum and the water level is too low.

    Put the hose in, start filling,

  • Go to Kmart or other store and get 3-4 1lb bags of Chlorine Shock. They MAY have the skimmer basket ( other wise go to the pool store for that).
    • 2 ( 4 !) lb Baking soda ( yes regular baking soda)
  • Get a Chlorine / PH test kit ( LIKE THIS)

    You can get the water tested now - typically free at the pool store, but you will be making a few adjustments and at first, we just need it chlorinated and cleaned up.

    30' round 52" pool is ... 21K Gallons. I did not realize they had so much water! - anyway the pool store will want to know this and they typically will set up a record in their system. This will help them tell you how much of the chemicals you will need in the future. But do not let them sell you a bunch of chemicals right now - the water is so out of balance right now I do not think a test will be very useful)

    If you are not going to completely drain the pool, once filled and connected, add 2 Lbs of the Shock. -- and start running the pump. I would add the 2lbs of Baking Soda now, but others may disagree...- actually 21K Gal you can use 4 lbs.

    Once running for 3-4 hours test the Chlorine and PH , keep CL above 3.0 for a day. - I am pretty sure you will see remarkable difference in 1 day.

    OK - I got to go back to work - haha
u/thoon · 3 pointsr/pools

Afraid I can't speak for the Dolphin since I've never worked with it. As for the others:

The Hayward functions well. It's an old design; tried and true. It'll climb walls and follow a pattern. Of the non-robotic cleaners you mentioned, it'll end up costing the most in maintenance. Nothing to break the bank, but it has gears, bearings, and feet that eventually wear down. If you're mechanically minded, they're not hard to break down and clean/rebuild. Maybe $50 a season starting in a year or two depending on the mileage.

(Aside: They've released a new cleaner that's meant to be a bit of a replacement that's worth looking at too. A bit sturdier and more modular. I liked the simplicity of working on it, what chances I got.)

Avoid the Smartpool. Sold these things and they can work very well. This might have changed, but as of last year you don't get a warranty if you buy online. And it's just about useless without that. I'd say 30% of the ones we put into the market came back within the year with some issue. The first gen had cord issues that they corrected. WITH the warranty we'd have a free replacement part, tune up, and test, and you'd be back in business within a few days. Without a warranty, you're SOL. Get it in store or don't get it at all.

For the Baracuda and Kreepy, you'll be getting one of the simplest, no BS cleaner types on the market. For wear and tear, they've got a diaphragm and the foot pad. Easy day. However, that mechanical simplicity also means they function simply. They might not climb the walls, depending on pressure/slope/depth. They'll also be random in their pattern. Not uncommon to have them loitering in certain areas.

The BIGGEST thing I can say about any cleaner you get, it's not a 100% set and forget solution. Take care of it! If you're going out of town, by all means leave it in the pool on a timer. It's great to come back to sparkling water; that's the whole point of a cleaner!

Don't, however, leave it in 24/7 exposed to the sun and chemicals. I've seen three year old Hayward Navigators that looked like they'd been drug through a minefield with repair costs higher than buying a new one. I've also seen Navigators that were over a decade old, bleached white, but still trucking with the occasional part replacement. Like a lawnmower, you've got to hose it off occasionally, check the insides, and keep it stored when not in use. If you do that, your $500 will go a long, long way.

u/yeshelloo1 · 3 pointsr/pools

I bought this light a year ago and installed it in my pool after closing on my house:

P&LED (12V,35W) Color Changing Swimming Pool Lights Bulb LED PAR56 Light (switch control + remote control type) For Pentair Hayward Light Fixture,and For Inground Pool ,E27 Compatible with E26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOFE6BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dOjPCbTAMFC6C

Some people had some negative reviews about it but overall I am pretty pleased with how it has worked for me so far and I have it on pretty much every single night. The red light isn’t that bright but I don’t care because it’s honestly not that pretty to look at. My favorite color is the cyan because it makes the water so inviting looking and is also very bright. Here’s a picture of my pool at night:

https://imgur.com/gallery/7wc3Fm3

u/baby_monitor1 · 2 pointsr/pools

There's really no way for us to tell what kind of pool it is from one photo.

Regarding types of pools being "worst to best": each has pros and cons, and it also depends on what is popular in your area.

  • Vinyl pools need to have the lining replaced every so often, but if you keep the chemical levels nice and you treat it well, the liners can last a long time. As far as I know our liner is original to our pool from around 2007. Vinyl pools can be made in basically any size or shape, and have the advantage of never having to worry about getting black algae (because the algae cannot take root in the liner), and you don't have to worry so much about calcium levels like you would with a gunite pools. Just be careful and make sure you don't puncture the liner, although small tears/holes can be repaired.

  • Fiberglass pools can only be so large because they are pre-constructed and have to be transported on public roads. Too big and they literally can't be driven to the installation site.

  • Gunite pools can be any size or shape, but you do have be careful to make sure you don't get black algae, because it's a serious PITA to remove. They also need to be acid-washed every now and then. You need to be more diligent about keeping your calcium levels in check, if you don't have enough in the water, the water will leach it out of the gunite and leave you with some nasty-looking stains.

    Regarding a pool fence: I installed a pool fence around our pool for about $3,600, which was a bit cheaper than a local fencing company wanted. Roughly 165-linear feet with 1 gate. The normal method if you're doing a traditional aluminum pool fence is to excavate holes for the posts just outside the pool deck, and fill them with concrete to hold the posts in place. Since our pool was in place when we bought our house and I didn't know where all the plumbing and electrical lines were running underground, I decided to bolt our fence directly to the pool deck with surface mounts (meaning I had to cut the posts down to size since they're 7ft long from the factory, drill 4 holes per fence post in our concrete pool deck, and attach the surface mounts with stainless concrete anchors) so I wouldn't hit any stuff underground by accident. It was a learning experience but I got it done in a few weekends, and Lowes offered 0% financing for 2-years on large purchases like that.

    I ended up getting these for the fence, with the corresponding surface mounts, posts, gate, hardware, etc.

    IF you do decide to get this house and put a fence around it, you'll want to look for local building codes to see what might apply. I don't have anything local to me, but I did find a set of recommendations from the International Code Council, so I tried to build my fence as close to this as possible. The most important parts to keep little kids out are the height, the picket spacing, the space between the ground and the bottom horizontal rail, and the self-closing/self-latching gate that opens away from the pool. I couldn't get my bottom horizontal rail less than 2" from the pool deck due to the surface mounts, but it is what it is. The preferred pool gate latch is something like a MagnaLatch -- the gate hinges auto-close the gate and the MagnaLatch automatically locks itself when the gate closes, with the opening mechanism out of reach of little hands.

  • The fence must be a minimum of 48 inches tall

  • The middle horizontal rail must be at least 45 inches above the bottom horizontal rail

  • The spacing between pickets must be less than 4 inches.

  • The space between the bottom horizontal rail and the ground must be less than 2 inches.

  • The gate(s) must be self-closing and self-latching.

  • The gate(s) need to open outward (away from the pool area).

  • The operating mechanism of the latch must be at least 54 inches from the bottom of the gate or it shall be on the pool side of the gate at least 3 inches below the top AND shall not have any opening greater than 1/2 inch within 18 inches of the release mechanism.
u/TyneyTymey · 2 pointsr/pools

This TR-100 is the new iteration of the tried and true Pac-Fab bobbin wound filter design, so yes... this is a good filter.

I'm not a fan of the Pentair 261050 2-Inch HiFlow Valve because I recall some odd problem they had with it (may be remedied by now) AND that it has an unusual plumbing configuration - but those two things aside, it does allow a higher flow due to it's improved interior design.

The tried and true (multiport) valve is the Pentair 261055 Multiport Valve for Triton And Quad D.E. Filters, 2 Inch, 7 1/2 Inch Centerline which is pretty much their industry standard for more than twenty years now (since they stopped using Hayward multiport valves!).

So, that would be my sand filter setup of choice. Now that you're considering a more expensive filter, have you checked out Pentair's DE (diatomaceous earth) filters? Better, finer filtration in the same amount of filter time although a bit more maintenance as the media has to be replaced occasionally.

But yes, that is a good filter.

u/hWatchMod · 2 pointsr/pools

I am currently working towards a similar goal. We are currently using a salt system for chlorination and recently picked up this automatic pool cleaner.

I was pretty skeptical at first that this would do a good job but after using it for a day it cleaned better than we ever have on our own.

You would need to take it out and put in once a week though, so its not fully automated as in it stays in the pool 100%, but you "set it and forget it" for a day and the next day you can take it out.

Now that we have pretty much balanced the pool chemicals chemistry, I am using this Phos Free to keep the water clear and free from alegea. Everything has been working pretty well so far. Hope this helps.

u/hostmostoast · 1 pointr/pools

Can't go wrong with the inteliflo VSF. It's expensive but parts will be available forever and it's the most proven pump. Typically you have to buy it at a pool store.

Next best option would be the superflo VS. Much smaller pump, still very capable. If you pool is just a 20x40 without water features or hot tub the superflo would be fine. Inteliflo gives you many more options with scheduling (which you may or may not care about).

Get some 2" high temp unions (IF you do inteliflo) https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hi-Temp-Union-Whisperflo-Intelliflo/dp/B00AKMV4K8 like these so your pump can be easily serviced in the future.

u/bknutner · 1 pointr/pools

Sure - here's some pics - https://imgur.com/a/Yl2DxEe

I run it for about 8 hours overnight and a few more hours in the AM. I've got it set on a schedule via a wi-fi plug.

I've been using this reusable filter I got from amazon and its been going pretty well - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W06Z2UU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I rinse out the filter every other day or so and it catches a lot, but the old paper filters used to catch a lot more of the brown oil stuff maybe.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Any advice specific to this re-usable filter would be great too.

u/Soundboard_Fez · 1 pointr/pools

I bought a house with a 20x40 vinyl inground last year, and have learned the troublefreepools method. I use store brand concentrated bleach, 8.25%, and their pool calculator to help determine how much to use.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ESQMA8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495056986&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pool+sweepers+for+in+ground+pools&dpPl=1&dpID=41IJ2WmA9uL&ref=plSrch

And I love this little guy, he's a huge help for a very minimal investment. I named mine "Munchie."

u/Remixmark · 1 pointr/pools

> I 2nd his recommendation of pentair equipment

I got two quotes for my pool and both pool guys, each with 40 years experience told me the same 1hp hayward pump. I'm not saying you guys don't know what you're talking about, because I know you do and that's why I posted this topic in the first place.

I'm just trying to understand why you guys are recommending a 3 horsepower pump that's more than twice the cost of the hayward.

I looked into the vitro clean instead of sand and that seems like an easy thing to do and something I'll be purchasing based on what I've read.

What Jandy or Pentair do you recommend and why do you recommend them over hayward?

I'm looking at the gulfstream for a few reasons;

  1. It's made in the USA
  2. gulfstream only makes heatpumps. There's something to be said about a company that specializes in one product.
  3. it has a high BTU rating and low COP for the cost.
u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/pools

Thanks again for all the help and good to point out why warranties are given so often.

Between the TriStar, EcoStar and Intelliflo. Are there any other things I'll need to consider? Will they work ok with 1.5" piping? I have a dial timer thing that our pool servicers adjust according to season, will those work with it, or will they no longer be needed since the configuration panels are on the pumps now?

TriStar 3202

Tristar 3200

EcoStar 3400

Pentair 011018

Whats the differencee between the 3202 and the 3200?

u/OompaloompaAlleyoopa · 2 pointsr/pools

Everything that Worchestershire said. When your PH is below 7, your Chlorine will disappear rapidly...Get your PH to 7.4-7.6. You got a lot of organic material in the pool so the chlorine will combine with it and you'll need to bring the Free Chlorine up. Also what test kit are you using? The FAS DPD sometimes can give you a false zero reading, especially if you are using an algaecide. Best bet is to take a sample to a pool store to test for you.


Also a water clarifier might help get that baby sparkling but won't do anything about the algae. Make sure you address what we suggested first then give it a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Pool-Spa-58032CLX-Clarifier-1-Quart/dp/B00PZZFOS8 . You can probably pick some up at the pool store when you bring them your water sample.

Goodluck!

u/lief101 · 2 pointsr/pools

You'll need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1520998347&sr=1-2&keywords=salt+test+kit

Also, any test kit that includes a CYA test should be good. The K2006 is a pretty standard kit that test all aspects of water chemistry (except for salt concentration) If you have a salt generator, you'll probably need to manually boost your CYA levels that would normally come from chlorine.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg

u/hugehangingballs · 2 pointsr/pools

The Pool Cleaner. Very little to break, hoses last forever. Does a decent job on vinyl. You'll need tires in a year or two, if you keep the pool open year around. That's the only guaranteed maintenance needed .

Hayward Poolvergnuegen 896584000-013 The Pool Cleaner Automatic Suction Pool Vacuum, 2-Wheel, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KSRJXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0nKcBbX6P9B26

Robots are awesome, but pools have been staying spotless for years before they were invented. Plus you never have to take out a traditional sweeper if you don't want to. That's an overlooked bonus in this sub.

u/ParkieDude · 2 pointsr/pools

Air bubbles are usually an air leak on the inlet side of the pump.

The filter basket is typically clear. It should fill with water completely; maybe a quart quarter (USA coin) sized air bubble at the maximum.

I kept thinking my Jandy Valves had an air leak, but once I changed out the 14-year-old pump, it finally solved the mystery!

Stuff I use for the threaded connections "Blue Oatey."
https://www.oatey.com/2370868/Product/N/Oatey-8-fl-oz-Great-Blue-Pipe-Joint-Compound

Original Pipe was thread into the pump; the PVC cemented in place. They used the "white threaded sealant" which leaked air after a few years. Cut and sectioned pipe, and installed these:

https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hi-Temp-Union-Whisperflo-Intelliflo/dp/B00AKMV4K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523290774&sr=8-2&keywords=2%22+pipe+connector+pool

LPT: If you haven't done PVC Pipe Cement the first dozen times is a nightmare. Buy a 4' length of PVC and a simple 2" joint. You want to "insert and twist" to get a good seal, practice makes perfect. I've done in the past with ease home building. Three years later, darn if I don't need a days practice to get back into the rhythm of doing that. Pool guys do this daily and make it so easy, but it is a learned skill.

The hot tub level is going back down at night. Your "Jandy one-way check valves" have rubber spring loaded seals. After five or ten years (?) common item to rebuild. Pretty simple. Screws into plastic, light pressure, turn screw backward until you feel a click, now forward. Helps keep you from cross threading the housing.

Sadly between a pool and septic field, I've gotten lots of practice on those valves!

https://www.jandy.com/en/products/valves/check

Damn finger typo's today, forgive me for not correctly linking those. I'm using copy-paste and dragon speak to type this morning. Time fo meds, just another day living with Parkinson's. Oh, I have a massive magnet on a stick for finding those screws when I drop them in the grass.

u/magnumpl · 2 pointsr/pools

Thank you.

I was considering these:

u/RandallDC · 1 pointr/pools

That would be fabulous, because an OEM is running upwards of $750 with a 3 year warranty right now. What gives me pause is this: https://www.amazon.com/BLUE-WORKS-T-15-Cell-Compatible-Pro-Rated/dp/B07MZ1P4HH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=t-15+cell&qid=1565241217&s=gateway&sr=8-3

"Our BLT cell is compatible with .... 4.2 or newer Aqua Logic systems." I think my mainboard firmware is at 2.6x. Unless it is referencing something else?

u/Liquid_Friction · 2 pointsr/pools

Super simple can’t go wrong, plugs into the skimmer or side port you have, I would have the floor suction closed, unless the cleaner climbs up the wall out of the pool, find the setting where the cleaner stays mostly on the floor and not too much up the wall.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-Poolvergnuegen-896584000-013-Cleaner-Automatic/dp/B004KSRJXO

u/monkmullen · 1 pointr/pools

Thanks for the replies, guys!

The motor is a hayward sp3400vsp (or vspvr). Looking online, a new one runs upwards of $1,000. That's nuts.

For a rebuild, any idea what I should be expecting out of pocket?