(Part 2) Best products from r/projectcar

You might have some luck that way, but overall I've found stock replacement designs (even cheap import ones like TYC or Spectra) to be both more reliable and more powerful. You can grab a new one of those off Amazon in about two days tops.

This is the V8 one from that year, and probably available by Friday for you:

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CF15010-Radiator-Assembly/dp/B00Q64R94Y

That actually moves a smidge more sure than the V6 one. You'd need to adapt the wiring a bit more vs the V6, but it's quickly available.

Of course, if there's a local one at a yard, that may be your fastest bet for one just to test.

This is the book I bought. If you want to learn from someone who loves to shape sheet metal then look no further. I met the author, Ed Barr, and he is the real deal. You will learn a lot from his book.

Edit: it's 300 pages of information that applies to what you want to do

Also, there are car restoration classes at the McPherson College in Kansas. They have a summer session that is open to the public. Each class is a one week session (M-F 8:30-5). The faculty and everyone else there are all friendly! Unfortunately, the classes are over this year, but they run every year in June. I took beginner and advanced sheet metal classes as well as a drivetrain class.

In the metal classes we learned how to TIG, MIG and torch weld sheet metal. Also, learned how to shape and form the sheet metal like bending, stretching and shrinking in certain places to get the right shape for your need. They have all the tools you need for your task. English wheels, bead rollers, metal brakes, hammers, dollies, power hammers etc...you name it and it's there. Plus they are open to students bringing in a manageable piece in to work for your advanced class.

The drivetrain class, we were allowed to take apart transmissions and put them back together. I did a Model A, 63-67 MG A, and a TH400. Someone else did a tranny from an 04 Mustang. We also took apart live axles. I took apart an axle with a Dana differential.

They offer a lot more and I promise you won't leave with a frown on your face!

P.S. A lot of students say they know the ins-and-outs of something until they take one of these classes. Almost everyone learns at least something new.

Yeah, if it's a practicality thing I use this "shaker" siphon and red plastic fuel cans.

If it's an aesthetics thing: then no.

I use this for a lot of gas, and it works well. Why? Because I was reading the Kroger fuel discount brochure one day and realized my reward was for up to 35 gallons of gas. I was essentially throwing over half my reward away by using it on 15 gallons of gas. So now, I take my car and four five gallon containers about once a month and save 50 to 70 cents per gallon on 35 gallons ($210-$294 for a year/ enough for a membership to the children's museum and zoo). Before I was using a funnel, but that shaker siphon was a godsend. I just set the 5 gallon container on my trunk (old car) and start it going and come back in a few minutes.

Maybe that helps? I use it for my mower and moped too.

To what end? Got to ask why you're planning this work.

Are you looking to change the suspension pickup points? If that's the case, you'll need to do the math on suspension design to ensure that your suspension points will work. Carroll Smith wrote the definitive book on this subject (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0768011205/ref=pd_aw_sim_14_of_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Z9CNKQKDTFVS2QX0DN8) If you're not going to change suspension points, a well built jig will allow you to replicate the pickup points and build a tubular subframe.

Regarding Roll cages, you'll want to follow the rule book of whatever racing you plan to do. A roll cage built without a rule book isnt a great idea. Different motorsports sanctioning bodies have different rules. If youre going to do different kinds of racing, you'll need to make sure you meet all of the requirements of all the rule books. This could require some creative thinking before you ever bend a tube. Even if you're not going to race (but then why the roll cage), it's best to follow a certain set of guidelines.

This might help in giving you some direction, though I'm not sure if it's exactly what you're looking for: http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1373148270&sr=1-1&keywords=bumper+repair+kit

The mesh is used as the backing to reinforce the split, the epoxy is basically used like bondo for plastics, sandable with low grit sandpaper.

I used it when I removed some emblems on my rear bumper and needed to fill in the holes, it worked perfectly. The bumper itself was pretty messed up, with random marks and divets where other drivers have gone into the rear, license plate first. The epoxy worked great as a filler, I was able to restore the shape and make it smooth without much effort. That said, I'm not sure how well it'll work if you're stitching together 3-4 inches of side skirt together, though I can see it holding its shape together, especially if it's not in a high traffic area.

Same here! More of a Chevy guy but really wanted a dump truck and this one popped up on Facebook and I've really grown to love the style.

That sounds awesome; this one has a decent paint job but it was the PO's son who wanted to practice bodywork on something nobody cared about, so there are a few runs/janky bits.

Also - here's the radio I used; thinking of getting one for my tractor!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VHLRNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_cKTZCbG46XS93

• 3/4 of rebuilding a carb is cleaning it. Little sonic cleaners are really useful for that, might be a good investment if you want to make a habit of this. They're pretty cheap too. Otherwise, use plenty of carb cleaner and soak parts in kerosene or gasoline if you have to.
  
  
• Egg cartons make good small hardware organizers. Lay masking tape on the top of the egg carton so you can write labels for what each section contains.
  
  
• Take lots and lots of pictures as it's coming apart.
  
  Enjoy!

It's possible, but with the existing aftermarket, and the price most salvage yards ask for for OEM radio touchscreens... fuck that. Bonus, if your car is a VW, Joying and several others have OEM appearing pretty nice touchscreens.

50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF beats damn near anything. If it's really stuck, hit it with a torch first and let it sit for about 15 mins.

ATF is filled with all kinds of detergents and dispersants. The Acetone thins it down to let it flow better and help it wick into the threads. I keep it in a spray can like this and use it all the time. It's cheap as all get out too.

After that there are a lot of things to try, In no particular order.

6 point wrench and a sharp strike, like with a hammer.

6 point wrench and strong constant force.

try tightening it first, sometimes you can break the bond that way

heat the nut with a torch, and cool the bolt rapidly. I've used a can of dust off turned upside down to cool.

strike the head with a hammer.

Breaker bar with a length of pipe slid over the handle. anyway to increase your leverage.

Looks like this Old Shark dashcam. I have the same one. Works super well, I highly recommend it!

The mastercool hydraulic flaring tool is the one to get. Perfect flares almost every time. Super easy to use and even works with the lines on the car.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71700-Hydraulic-Flaring-Swaging/dp/B000HI2I5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=2RIBWK14BTB8M&keywords=mastercool+flaring+tool+kit&qid=1551108506&s=gateway&sprefix=mastercool&sr=8-6

After using a cup socket, plier type, screwdriver method etc. The best solution I ever found was one of these strap wrenches as you wrench it off, it gets tighter. Since I had so many jagged edges from the screwdriver the first time, it was torn up afterwards but a new one on an unmolested filter works great!

haha thanks! I did it by hand, but I have heard of that technique before. I mostly bought this little slider to hook up a janky timelapse setup powered by this little guy. The slides are so fucking loud that the audio is pretty much unusable.

Thank you good sir ! Found on Amazon !
Thanks to you .
https://www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Control-Solenoid-LINCOLN-Solenoids/dp/B01MTRAY12

Sorry, for the wall of text.

I included the cost of the hoist in my $750 because I didnt have one.

• engine - $190 (Pay Less 4 Parts)
  
  
• trans - $185 (Prestige Auto Parts)
  
  
• CV axles - $50 each (Detroit Axle)
  
  
• 2 gallons of fnr5 compatible trans fluid - $36 (autozone).
  I've been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF. You cannot use regular ATF! the trans requires Mazda V fluid which is NOT Mercon V. The Valvoline MaxLife stuff is within spec of Mazda V. I have been using it for years for my periodic drain/fill on this trans.
  
  
• engine oil - $20
  
  
• adapter to use 2.3 throttle body on 2.5 manifold - $69 (email FTodaro716@aol.com)
  
  
• Crankshaft pulley/Harmonic Balancer bolt - $12 - Fordparts.com -ordered online and picked up at local dealer. The Bolt is one time use/TTY. part # 1S7Z6A340AA
  
  
• Crankshaft friction washer - $14 - Fordparts.com -ordered online and picked up at local dealer. it sits between the pulley and the crankshaft. MIGHT not be needed but I replaced it for peace of mind. part # 1S7Z6378AA
  
  
• trans filter/gasket - $12 (advance auto - used 25% off coupon)
  
  
• prestone AF2000 coolant concentrate - $12 (walmart). My coolant is orange so I used more orange. The fusion that the engine came from had green coolant.
  
  
• duratec/zetec timing set - $16 (amazon). I used a knockoff, but Massive sells one too here. You need this to time the engine and for the crankshaft pulley shenanigans.
  
  
• 1 ton shop crane - $100 (harbor freight - had a couoon)
  
  Bellhousing: No adapter needed. The bellhousinga bolt to the engine the exact same. The Mazda 6 bell just has 2 extra holes for the rear "dogbone" mount (I am using a solid aluminum AWR mount) to attach to that the mazda 3 bell does not.
  
  Time: from pulling the car into the garage til now, I'm at 25 hours. 5 hours a day for the last week. Didnt touch it all weekend. This is my first solo engine swap so I've been taking it slow/dealing with rusted bolts and stubborn brackets.
  
  One Offs: The harmonic balancer bolt is a bear! its on there at like 200 ft/lbs so it was a pain to get off of both engines, even with an impact. I'm using an electric impact though so that might be why.
  
  i used the following forum threads as reference. CTOP
  
  [04 2.3l swap 2.5l successful - Mazda 3 Forum] (http://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powertrain-2004-2009-mazda3/647562-04-2-3l-swap-2-5l-successful.html)
  NOTE: The camshaft positions sensors had the same part number for me so I didnt swap them like he mentions. and I used a Throttlebody adapter instead of using the 2.3 intake manifold adapter.
  
  2.5 swap instructions - Miata Forum

Had a 2011 Challenger R/T and put glass packs on it, sound pretty good most of the time and especially good at WOT but the drone on road trips was kinda grating.

Now I'm running with a 2012 Charger R/T and just put a flowmaster system on it. It is aggressive enough to bring out the sound of the V8 nicely but it isn't overbearing. Personally I love it, but some folks might want a more aggressive tone. I'm just glad it isn't so quiet any more.

For reference, this is the flowmaster system I bought: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00548VT0I/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

Not sure if it is compatible with the older vehicles but I imagine there is something similar out there.

I have manual steering in my mustang and my f250 so I have a big steering wheel and I’ve smacked it a few time making a quick turn. Lol

This is the one I bought. It was $4 for two at autozone

I also saw this one looking for it that looks pretty cool too.

Velcro is a good idea. That would be cool to Fab a mount to be placed wherever it is most convenient.
This is the mount I'm talking about.

Arkon Car or Truck Seat Rail or Floor Tablet Mount with 22 inch Arm for iPad Pro iPad Air 2 iPad Retail Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F3F09NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zoX5BbACBBJ0E

Looks like you got it man great job, but as a guy that installs a lot of stereos it’s always easiest and cleanest to just buy a dash kit and proper wiring harness https://www.scosche.com/1982-up-honda-nissan-in-dash-install-kit. https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Infiniti-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL3146