(Part 2) Best products from r/puppy101

Hey!

I totally know where you’re coming from. we brought home our toy poodle 2 weeks ago (he’s 11 weeks today) and I am home with him during 9-5 hours while my boyfriend helps out evenings and weekends. The first week I genuinely considered returning him because I felt so overwhelmed despite doing an absurd amount of research and having had 2 other family dogs where I wasn’t the primary caretaker lol. The breeder had him potty trained and crate trained and said he was the first of his litter to run to the food bowl but the first week he came home with us he whined in his crate + playpen, pooped on the floor and became a finicky eater lol

I can say even though I’m still struggling with a few things (he’s a pretty shy pup who's not food motivated, hates his playpen, and doesn't understand kongs lol ) I’m feeling better and seeing sooo much progress in our little man since he first came home.

Here are some things that work for us:

Crate training: This will take time and will also require some patience and understanding on your end - there will likely be whining and the best thing you can do is IGNORE IT - this is of course as long as your puppies needs are met - before ever putting him into the crate make sure he’s peed and isn’t hungry/thirsty. The #1 thing you need to be aware of is that if you let him out while he’s whining he will associate whining = attention/freedom.

• Crate games Personally, we didn’t use crate games because when I tried I felt the same frustration lol. We have a T-shirts that smell like us in his crate + his favourite (safe) toy that he can only cuddle/play with while he’s in there to make it attractive place. Our dog isn’t food motivated either but we’ve discovered dehydrated raw treats are like crack to him lol. We use a high value treat (dehydrated raw beef liver) to lure him into the crate while saying “bedtime” and then we close the door. He’ll whine during the day sometimes when he’s overtired but never at night and actually goes in willingly on his own to relax.
  
• Nighttime: set alarms before he starts whining. In our case we sleep at 11pm and have alarms for 2am, 5am and 7:45am - you’ll need to monitor when he starts to whine and set your alarms for ~10-15 mins beforehand to avoid reinforcing whining. I also recommend sticking to night time crating rather than playpen to work off a dogs need for consistency.
  
• Enforced naps: these are a god send. Pups need to sleep roughly 18-20 hours a day. For every 45-1 hour that your puppy is awake lure him into his crate for a 1-2 hour nap. I use a wyze camera (https://www.amazon.ca/Wyze-Wireless-Camera-Android-Version/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3J0J18TA1JUKO&keywords=wyze&qid=1565737568&s=gateway&sprefix=wyze%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-3) to monitor any sounds/movements in his crate and make sure I get to him to let him out to pee before he has a chance to start whining on his own. (Currently typing this as he’s napping away lol). You will get some free time to do as you please + puppy will wake up refreshed and happy (note: less nipping, more attentive!)
  
• Note: even if you successfully lure him into the crate he will likely still whine at times - I G N O R E. I can’t stress this enough. The sooner he learns whining = no reaction, the sooner he’ll learn to settle and nap. First week our puppy whined ~5 minutes each time, now it’s ~30 seconds max and MUCH less frequent. Consistency is key.
  
  Routine: Like I said our pup is awake for ~1 hour intervals throughout the day. Because pups do better with set schedules, I follow the same routine every hour and he seems to be doing better with this routine. Essentially what we do is : Wake up, pee, Train (5-10 mins max with his kibble or toys - like your ours isn’t food motivated but enjoys WORKING for his food, other times he’s more willing to work for toys so that could also be worth a try), fetch (physical exercise indoors), Train (5-10 mins max), play, leash train (indoors), play, pee, nap.
  
  
• Physical exercise: A tired pup is a happy pup - but keep in mind there’s a fine line between proper exercise for a puppy and overstimulation - we’ve been doing 5-10 minutes of indoor fetch every hour awake and it looks like the perfect balance for us - you’ll have to play with this figure a little to see what works best but I promise the whining is bound to decrease if he’s already sleepy before crate time
  
• Mental stimulation: poodles (and poodle crosses) are prone to getting bored without enough mental stimulation = excess whining. Mental stimulation includes feeder toys, puzzle games AND training. Our guy doesn’t really appreciate his kong lol but we have this (https://www.amazon.ca/Smart-Treat-Dispensing-Exercise-Ottosson/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1ZZNTTRIW62SD&keywords=nina+ottosson&qid=1565738495&s=gateway&sprefix=nina+ott%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-5) and we bring it out once or twice a day - sometimes he won’t even eat the food in the holes but he likes figuring out the puzzle lol
  
• Instilling independence: Okay so this is an area where I’ve noticed a BIG change since taking it seriously. The more you work on training commands, the more independence you’re installing in your pup. The more independent he feels, the more he can handle being alone, the outside world, scary interactions, etc. I’m not sure if you’ve done any puppy socialization classes or are looking into puppy training but I’d recommend finding a reputable one in your area and giving it a try. For training at home, we've had a lot of success with: https://www.youtube.com/user/kikopup
  
  Other tips:
  
  
• Bully Sticks: these things can be a god send if you need some time to yourself. The first time we gave our puppy one he went wild for it and left us alone for an hour. The second time, he held it in his mouth and whined his face off lol. We realized our mistake was making it available to him too frequently in a short period of time. Keep high-value items like this a special occasion treat to maintain it’s value.
  
• Toys: rotate toys. Have 2-3 toys out for a few days at a time, and learn which ones he gravitates to. You’ll discover which toys are high value + by rotating them he’ll get excited when his fav one from a certain batch is back in his turf. Take the high-value ones and make them crate only toys if they are safe to be played with unsupervised!
  
• Kong: I wish I could give you advice here because the Kong was a god send for our other dogs. The advice that’s been given to me is teach him how to use it. Youtube is good for this but at the end of the day, some dogs just don’t like the kong. If you do want to use this or other puzzle feeders/treat toys DON’T increase the value of the treat if he’s disinterested. He’ll learn that he can ignore his kibble/low-value treats and hold out for the better stuff and you’ll end up with a finicky eater.
  
• Daycare: Find a reputable one in your area bc it sounds like you need a little break and some socialization will be good for the little guy if you’re not looking into puppy classes or socialization classes.
  
  Hope this helps in some way shape or form, feel free to message me if you need to vent, compare puppy problems or ask any questions :)

How old is the puppy?

First of all, crate training issues like whining and biting the crate are absolutely to be expected. Whining and crying for 30 minutes is actually REALLY good. When I first got my puppy, she would scream as long as she was in the crate. For HOURS. She would never settle down.

With regular crate training , the crate will no longer be a place of confinement and frustration but a calming, safe place to call his own. But this takes time. Often more than 2 weeks.

As for the bed issue, don't force it. Dogs are just like people, they have their own preferences. If he likes sleeping on the kitchen floors, let him! It might not make sense to you, but if it's what he wants, it's not hurting anything so give him his space. However, it's possible it's too hot for him. My dog and cat are both very snuggly and love to sleep on soft surfaces, like beds, or cuddle with me normally. But if the apartment is too hot, both of them will go lie down on a hard floor like the kitchen or bathroom tile to cool off. So consider finding a cooling cushion for him (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aolvo-Cooling-Dogs-Extra-Large/dp/B07CZB9DRM) and put it in the living room. He might prefer that. If that doesn't change his preference, then just allow him to nap in the kitchen if that's what he likes. For whatever reason he might just find that more comfortable.


Concerning potty training, if he's only 10 weeks old (assuming you got him at 8 weeks) it's not surprising that he's having issues. Again, these are absolutely to be expected with a puppy. Nothing is instantaneous. But it sounds like you're giving him *way* too much freedom. A puppy should ALWAYS be in a completely controlled environment until he is fully potty trained and fully able to be trusted not to destroy/chew on inappropriate things.

If he's not in his crate (only crate him 2-4 hours a day at this young age, increase it with time), he should always be under your direct supervision. For instance, you might want to keep him in a puppy play pen, or better yet, leash him to you (get a carabiner and clip his leash to your belt loop if you have one) so that he's never more than 4 feet away from you as you move from room to room. Less optimal, but also acceptable, would be using babygates to confine him to one room (perhaps the living room as it seems that's where you and your partner spend the most time) so that you can see him at all times. As soon as he starts indicating he's going to use the toilet (walking around, sniffing, or lowering himself to squat) say a quick "nope nope nope" (in a firm, urgent voice, but not angry or loud), grab him, and run-carry him outside to let him complete the tinkle. Then throw a HUGE party when he pees outside. Shower him with his favourite treats and just be super ecstatic, play with him, dance around with him. He unlocks the BEST version of you when he pees outside.


In terms of just trying to help him settle in--definitely look into getting some chew toys that he really, really loves. My puppy was INCREDIBLY high energy and was not a settler, either. But I got Himayalan yak cheese chews for her. At first she didn't know what to do with it, but when she figured out how fun they were to gnaw on, she was addicted. Now, if I want her to settle (for example, when she's going in her crate, or when I need to do something and keep her occupied) I give her one of those chews and she'll lie down happily and hold the end between her paws and gnaw on the other end for an hour or two. It's her favourite relaxing hobby.

Many people think that because corgis are bossy and stubborn they need to be forceful with training - which isn't the case. Corgis are actually (generally) pretty sensitive dogs despite their bossiness, so using these old fashioned dominance methods are just hurting your relationship with your dog.

He is 4 months old - he has been ALIVE 4 months! You need to be patient and consistent with him. You are not going to be able to expect him to have a perfect recall, bite inhibition, play and bathroom habits at this age - it is like expecting a 3 year old to act like a 18 year old - they do not have the mental capacity, the focus or the skill to be more than what they are - a baby.

Get into a puppy kindergarten class at a local club that specializes in positive reinforcement. Kindergarten will help your puppy with socialization (which will help with basic manners, bite inhibition and will be CRITICAL to their success as an adult dog). YOU are going to do most of the learning in kindergarten and learn how to teach basic commands effectively, possibly get an introduction to clicker training and have the opportunity to ask questions and get answers with seasoned trainers.

>He settled down a little then got up and proceeded to pee on my arm, then tried to pee on my legs as well.

This is hardly surprising. He is a baby, he has ZERO bladder control. Puppies of that age have about 30 to 90 minutes worth of 'hold it' time (depending on the individual, how much water they have been drinking, etc) while they are awake and active. He should not have the option to go lay down with you - no one would be able to watch him. He should really be in the same room with one person's eye balls on him at all times. If you want to let him wander, your fiance needs to be following him. It is not to be mean or controlling, but you just cant trust a puppy that young not to pee because they need to - they don't really have the concept of 'outside' or 'holding it' yet.

>He DOES know how to ask to go out btw, sometimes he just doesn't and ignores you if you ask him if he wants to go out (which he knows what that means).

At 4 months old? No, he probably doesn't really know. He may sort of understand that when he does certain things he can go outside, but he is not reliable enough to communicate that/figure out how to ask under ALL situations. Our corgi was fantastic with house training at 5 months - unless he was in a room he was not used to or could not get to the back door to 'ask' because a door or other obstacle was in his way. It was not a reflection of him being 'bad' - he just had been in those situations so rarely that he did not know HOW to ask in those situations (which could be very similar to your dilemma). Your corgi should be on a consistent schedule - dont ASK him if he wants to go out, TAKE him out! Every 45-90 minutes when active (depends on his track record and what he is doing) and 15-30minutes after eating or drinking. If you notice him start to loose interest in an activity, that is your cue to get him outside (again, don't ask, just take him out). At around 5 - 6 months your pup is going to have more reliable bladder control and you can start to explore more freedoms as he proves he can handle it (teaching him to use bells or offer a cue to go out instead of taking him out systematically, slowly allowing him to have the room you are in +1 to explore while still being supervises, etc). Some people CAN get away with more freedoms earlier, but if your pup is still having accidents that is proof you are not there yet (and need to adjust accordingly)


Look into these resources for help with potty training and behavior - there simply is too much to cover in one reply:

• Kikiopup - What NOT to do to your dog when training your dog
  
  
• Dog training wiki - Jumping Up
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)
  
  Corgis are herders - they are very VERY mouthy until they get past teething (and can still be nippy if you are not consistent). Their bladders are tiny and untrustworthy at this age - keep them off uncleanable surfaces and make sure your eyeballs are on the puppy at all times until their bladder is more trustworthy. THOROUGHLY treat and wash the bedding with plenty of Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer (wash on sanitize setting after letting the bedding sit with the cleaner for several hours).
  
  /r/corgi frustrates me - so many people still advocate for dominance training there which has been seriously discounted in the dog training community. Yes, corgis are stubborn and are difficult to train - but you do not need to be mean or forceful or 'alpha'. Your dog is not trying to dominate you - they are a baby. They are not trying to be 'alpha' any more than an infant is trying to control the house.
  
  Be sure you are TEACHING your dog what you WANT them to do instead and you are treating the cause, not just the symptoms of behaviors. With potty training it is ALL about management and consistency - every accident is a set back and is YOUR fault for not watching him/controlling his environment better.
  
  If you cannot get to a puppy kindergarten class (which are usually around $50 for a 4-6 week class), do a TON of research on our wiki, kikopup videos, the digital dog training textbook and the books I listed above. Consider clicker training (but that will not really help they physical bladder control issue at this age) and Nothing in Life is Free to compliment your positive reinforcement training plan. Your puppy is also going to still need a ton of socialization with dogs, people and other animals.
  
  Positive reinforcement isn't about always sugar coating everything - you can still have strict rules and a well trained dog by using positive methods. The key to remember is treating the cause, not just the symptom and always looking to TEACH your dog, not control or intimidate. Corgis are fantastic dogs - they want to be with you all the time and they can be extremely obedient if you gain their trust and work with them correctly. Being heavy handed or using 'dominance' methods (like holding a dog on their back - that is terrifying to many dogs!) can seriously damage your relationship if you are not careful.
  
  Consistency and patience are the keys to success - look to capture the desired behaviors your corgi offers naturally, encourage new positive behaviors and redirect behaviors you do not want. If there is something your puppy does not KNOW (which is pretty much everything at this age) or cannot physically HELP (such as holding their bladder) you CANNOT punish them - it is not helpful, adds a lot of frustration and confusion to the relationship and does not teach them what they SHOULD be doing (because they don't know what that is or cannot physically do it.)

Sure! Keep in mind it could be a flook still but LETS STAY POSITIVE RIGHT? :D

- We bought these bells from Amazon. They just hang on our doorknob. Some people prefer the nicer looking ones or something that won't scratch the walls -- but our apartment is pretty simple as it is so we don't mind :)

- For a little context, we live on the third floor of an apartment. Our 15-week golden seems to be afraid of the word "outside" but will gladly romp around once he's there. So we knew we wanted to try bell training to give a more formal process around the act. He's pretty small for a retriever still, so we've been carrying him downstairs to avoid accidents in the public places of the building.

- Regarding potty on command: we've been saying the word "bivouac" whenever Monti potties for a while now. Why did we choose "bivouac"? I actually don't know...my boyfriend picked it out lol. But after we got Monti, we quickly learned "Monti" was too close to "potty" for his little puppy ears and we didn't want him to think his name meant "okay go pee." He would perk up and look at us when we said "potty" so we knew that wasn't going to work. Basically the process was whenever we went outside and he squats we say (or more like excitedly shout) "BIVOUAC! Good boy, Monti! Bivouac" and then give him a treat. We stopped giving treats a few weeks ago but we still say bivouac whenever he potties. It helps when he's distracted or in a new place. He knows the word "bivouac" means that he has an agenda to complete outside.

- SO to introduce him to the bell, what I started doing was stopping by the door and letting him hit it with his paw or nose before we went outside. When it made a jingle, I said "OUTSIDE!" and gave him a normal dog treat before exiting the apartment and going outside.

- Once he was comfortable with the new noise-making machine in the apartment (because he WAS definitely scared at first), I upped the ante. If it was time for a scheduled potty break, I would grab half a slice of turkey. I'd get his attention with it and then walk over to the door (I already have my shoes on and our "outside bag" over my shoulder...ready to go!) I put a piece of the turkey on top of the lowest bell (he's too short for the other two right now) and let him eat it off the bells, jingling it. I reward him with praise and say "outside" so he [hopefully] keeps associating bells = outside = potty. After that, I have him sit and give him another bite of the turkey while I put his leash on. Then lure him in the hallway and toward the stair well. He gets the turkey at the stairs...where I then pick him up and carry him the rest of the way. My goal is to get him to hold it little by little until we can make it all the way downstairs and outside without accidents!

​

So today, I had let him out after he ate and drank -- he pottied and we walked around/played for a while. We came back upstairs for maybe 5 minutes and he rings the bell again. I KNOW he likely doesn't have to potty, but he rang -- so I have to listen. I leash him up (no turkey rewards, just praise because I want to get him OUT as fast as possible) and carry him downstairs and outside. We're walking around where he usually potties and nothing is happening -- which is fine. I'm expecting him to abuse the system at first, and I planned to give him 5 minutes without moving from our potty spot. I say "bivouac" and....HE PEES!!!!!!! Not only did he ring his bell to go outside but he PEED with our command word. I'm so proud of him :D

​

Sorry this is so long! Hopefully it's a little helpful. and PS Pibble is an adorable name.

This is awesome. I figured I'd throw out my Kong strategy:

I have three dogs and 24 fillable toys.

• Kongs: https://www.chewy.com/kong-classic-dog-toy/dp/38414
  I like the Kong. It's a classic shape that's bounces erratically if that's your dog's method of filling removal. The dogs tend to like the kongs best as toys even when not filled.
  
  
• Toppl: https://www.chewy.com/west-paw-zogoflex-toppl-aqua-blue-dog/dp/109833?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl9966DqFjeBkGNeEnAcK1hhdOiFfwG-6eKNufP38oeb16COUVb98lycaAgX3EALw_wcB
  Easy for dogs to empty but also easy to fill - just plug the side. The best is this is a fun one to fill with 'surprises.' I tend to go a bit treat crazy adding lots of good things. Also great for dogs that might get discouraged with kongs.
  
  
• Sodapup: https://www.chewy.com/s?query=SodaPup&query2=rubber+dog+toys&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl9-OyxvQaOO0quZkH714lLXTVpFz-RXAi4aQvEOqofJofFsO2WRhrt4aAhmAEALw_wcB
  The straight sides allow for more filling and add a bit of a challenge. If a toy isn't going to be empty when I get home, it's one of these. So I've started filling the bottom with looser treats. However, because they hold a lot it doesn't take them any less time.
  
  
• Chew King: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3Q1XSZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1kAvDbY95X29H
  Very affordable, very sturdy (though I have some gentle dogs - even the dachshund). I'll see how long they last, but I may stick with these if I ever need more. (right now the X-Large are the cheapest)
  
  How I typically fill a kong: https://i.imgur.com/yTxBzch.jpg
  
  Yellow: soaked kibble for the dachshund, loose treats or treats with some sort of coating so they stick together a bit when frozen depending on how persistent the dog is (one poodle is fine with a frozen coating, the other prefers no coating).
  
  Blue: Something that freezes well. Sometimes the blue is the same as the brown, sometimes it's a little different - just wet food (for this layer it'd be a chunks in gravy), just peanut butter, etc.
  
  Brown: My Peanut Butter/Wet food mixture (a pate/ground wet). I often cut it with something like cottage cheese, cream cheese, apple sauce, plain yogurt, etc (not all those at once. Just one or two).
  
  Green: a treat. Ideally ones that stick out. But for the dachshund I use a flat treat (yogurt drops work well) so he has to work at it, for one poodle it has to stick out to get him to eat, and for the other Poodle it doesn't matter.
  
  I also leave three kongs unfrozen (thus 24 — 21 get frozen for 7 each). Those get the insides coated with peanut butter and the inside filled with whatever for those times I need to chill someone out.

Hello, I’ve got a golden too!! This is the link of the crate I’ve bought, the measures are in cm. It’s still perfect now he’s got 1 y old, we use it for long travels/holidays... my pup was very comfy in it and he didn’t complain once during our first travel together, it was 3 hours by car.

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00QAVNWSK/ref=pe_3310731_185740161_TE_item_image

For Goldens fur I don’t advise you the furminator, breeder and groomer both told me that it ruins the undercoat. So I’d suggest you to buy just a comb and a cardator rake.
If you wash him by yourself search a good shampoo, and don’t buy the first one you find (my mistake) but better ask your groomer or breeder.
Goldens love to nip a lot, invest in good safe chews!!! My golden doesn’t care about chews that don’t smell, and didn’t care about plastic ones (but well every golden is different).
One last thing, subscribe to
r/goldenretriever and post there some cute pictures please!

He has un-learned that it's nice to be clean. He needs to re-turn it, so you need to change your set up.

I always tell people to buy the tall Iris pet pen.Then get a mesh potty pad or fake grass pet potty - personal preference here, you just have to get something where they can't get to and shred the pad.

Put the crate in the back of the pen - start without bedding - and then put the potty thing right in front of it. Now we've created two clear zones - a comfy sleeping zone and a pee zone. By sleeping and peeing on both surfaces, their stupid little brain eventually is like "I can pee somewhere other than where I sleep. Huh. It's kind of nice not to sleep in my pee." They sometimes start to sleep on the potty thing, but don't worry about it, it's still part of the process. Eventually, when they seem to have the idea, try introducing a little bit of bedding back in and BE CRAZY ABOUT WASHING IT. If there is a drop of pee on the bed you can backslide. So wash wash wash so it stays clean and fresh (towels or sheets are a good/cheap way to start). Over time, you can introduce good bedding.

Remember, IGs have bladders the size of acorns, so they have to pee all the time, basically. A lot of people have success with the pen set up forever, and others can take them out enough to phase back into crates.

But right now, you need to give them the opportunity to re-learn how nice it is to be clean.

A side note, buying a dog from a good breeder who potty trains them - or at least you are 100% sure they're not raised to pee where they sleep - goes a long, long, long way in this.

We have a four month old German Shepherd and he used to do the biting and play attacks but has gotten much better about it. He never play attacks me, and does it rarely for my wife. Here's what worked for us:

1. Take him to puppy socializations. When he bites you I bet he's trying to start play with you, but hasn't learned what appropriate play is. The best way for him to learn what's okay and what isn't is with other dogs. If he bites another puppy, they'll either leave him alone or clap back at him. GSDs are smart, he'll get it fast
   
   
2. Really startle him when he does it. Other people have suggested yelling ouch and all that, but if it's not working then do it even louder. There needs to be a visual reaction from him that he's startled. After yelling, immediately end play. We would put him in a short timeout in his crate, and after 5 minutes he would usually have calmed down.
   
   
3. Tire him out. Puppies can't really do long walks yet, so we have this: https://www.amazon.com/Squishy-Face-Studio-Exercise-Squeaker/dp/B00HFFXEWE He absolutely loves playing with it, and after 10-15 minutes of play he's totally exhausted. Just have him chase the birdie around but let him get it periodically so he doesn't get discouraged. Let him chew on it for a bit, and then when he takes a break flick it out of his grasp. Don't play tug of war with the birdie, that's not really the intent.
   
   I'd be willing to guarantee that a combination of these three things will work. It's frustrating now, but he'll definitely grow out of it. So be patient, if you can. I also like to keep my puppy on leash in the house (if he's not in the crate) as a housebreaking exercise. It just gives me much more control over him and gives him more structure. Plus it's good for bonding.
   
   Anyway, let me know how it goes!

I have a mini Aussie so I feel you. I try to be as inventive as possible with my budget but I suggest most interactive/treat dispensing toys. I make large ice cubes that are half chicken/beef broth with a jerky or bone sticking out only a little. Then because it’s a mini and she’s not a huge chewer I can make these inside a talenti gelato container. So basically inside a Tupperware (which plastic isn’t ideal because they can swallow it but mine doesn’t and focuses on the bone) there is the half and half broth with a bone and an easy treat to get. She also doesn’t eat paper/cardboard so I can put a bone or treat inside a tissue box or empty pasta box or whatever and she’ll rip it apart to get to it. Once again, I can only do it because I’m watching and I know she does not ingest this.

Here are some toys I suggest that are proven safer:

Lumo Ball

Snuffle Mat I really like the snuffle mat because you can feed all your meals in this and bring it with you if you want to keep your dog busy wherever you are.

OSPet Interactive Feeder
Trixie Puzzle

Ottosson Puzzle I really like most toys Outward Hound makes.

My dog’s favorite kong I find I can put just a biscuit or fill it full of kibble and pb and she’ll spend quite a bit of time getting it out.

> . I have some Febreze spray here that I haven't used yet, but I do see that the can says to keep away from children and pets. I don't know if this spray would be harmful for her or if they just mean it so that the pet doesn't bite it or if it being in the air is dangerous to her health. It isn't that huge blue bottle, it is this thin one with a slanted top, I figured maybe I could take her out of the room to clean it and spray the Febreze then let her back in a little bit after.

Febreeze is not enzymatic cleaner. You need Nature's Miracle. Period.

> For socializing, my girlfriend has a french bulldog and there is also a pet store near by that I think could help me out with letting her play with other puppies and for her to see other people.

Has the puppy had its shots yet? You should not have them be around puppies that are also not vaccinated until your puppy itself has been vaccinated. The last thing you need on top of a puppy with a high-risk of behavioral issues to then get Parvoviros. Go here and scroll down to the "Vaccinations and Disease Risk..." section to make sure you're doing it right. If you know for a fact that your girlfriend's dog is 100% healthy and vaccinated, that should be fine.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but you're on the right track since you're already concerned and looking to be a good owner. Good luck.

I think Kongs are a good start.

I think with young puppies though, depending on their food drive and motivations, they may or may not take to puzzle toys early, so don't feel badly if it's too much for them.

We actually didn't start our dog on puzzle feeders for any "intelligence" benefit - she had super high food drive and kept eating quickly without chewing, vomiting out her meal, then eating her vomit, so we bought a slow feeder bowl which was perfect for her at 4 months old. We fed her out of frozen-solid Kongs in the morning starting when she was 5 months old to help curb her separation anxiety, and then eventually bought a Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble. Even on the easiest settings, she struggled quite a bit as a puppy so we cut down the stoppers to make the flow easier. When she got better at the game, we re-bought the toy and made it substantially more difficult.

My younger dog, a Samoyed, actually doesn't eat out of toys. He has a lesser food drive and while he'll occasionally eat out of a toy, he prefers to just eat his food and work for better snacks (i.e. training for high value treats), so figuring out what your future dog's preferences are is definitely going to be something you'll have to do as your dog grows up. This dog did not eat out of Kongs until he was about 6 months old, either. He's just as smart, just not as insanely food driven as my first dog!

So first thing is first - any adversive methods such as a vibrating collar with a dog that has fear or anxiety is only going to backfire and promote more fear or anxiety. I would ditch that. You're potentially causing more behavior issues when it's used. Dog learns to hide fear rather than teaching the dog confidence.


So you have a dog that is likely reactive and fearful - and a lot of anxiety. So before we can get to work mode, we need to address the causes of the anxiety and get the dog back to neutral. So first thing, you might want to try doing a two week shut down with this dog. https://www.marshmallowfoundation.org/info/file?file=20866.pdf This is to remove all the stimuli that can keep causing stress levels to be high. Adrenaline - when it spikes up during a moment of fear or panic can take over 6 days for the hormone levels to return to normal. It's great that the dog is food motivated because that is going to make things like counter conditioning to specific things much easier... but right now - stress is so high, your dog cannot focus let alone retain the cues you're training. Dog is in fight or flight mode... So give the two week shut down an effort.


Meanwhile, you want to write down all the things this dog is reacting to... if it's potentially separation anxiety, check the links I provided below. Anything else, you're going to want to work on each thing separately using desensitization and counter conditioning. Again, we're trying to bring the fearful dog to a neutral place... work on building confidence and associating the list of stimuli with positive rewards. Any negative behaviors - redirect.... either remove the stimuli or remove the dog. Reinforce calm relaxed behaviors.


https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/48sglg/discussion_separation_anxiety/ has some great info that you may find useful.

Do take a glance over at /r/reactivedogs They have lots of helpful advice on how to manage some of these behaviors.


Some books that may help:
The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell

I’ll be Home soon by Patricia McConnell

Don’t Leave Me by Nicole Wilde


If after that two week shut down and working a bit you still feel a bit overwhelmed, it might be a good consideration to work with a certified animal behaviorist. https://avsab.org/resources/speakers-bureau/behavior-consultants-near-you/ and https://iaabc.org/consultants are great searches for one.

Puppies need consistency and yes, a lot of patience. You will have a lot of accidents in the beginning as they usually need to relieve themselves every half hour or so. Would you be able to take a few days off to train him for a consistent period of time? If you'd like, I have a lot of info on this subject in this short-read book https://www.amazon.com/Puppy-Training-Housebreak-Psychology-Leadership-ebook/dp/B01HUHU3QG/ You can download it for free on amazon for the next 4 days. It teaches you how to understand the mind of a dog for easier training! Good luck!! And if this helps you, please leave an honest review for the book on amazon. :)

I'm in a similar boat (except I've got more advance notice) and have been finding the Digital Dog Training Textbook linked-to in the sidebar to be invaluable. Highly recommend. It's a little oddly laid out and it repeats itself itself but—as it says—you're really training yourself how to train the pup, so the reinforcement works (at least for me).

Their shopping list (oddly-formatted, watch out) includes:

• At least six chewtoys to stuff with kibble and treats (The Kong Company’s Kong and Biscuit Ball, Premier’s Squirrel Dude and Football, and sterilized long bones^† are the best.)
  
• Water bowl (Only buy your pup a food bowl once he is socialized, well-trained, and has impeccable household manners.)
  
• Dog food (dry kibble) During his first weeks at home, make sure your puppy receives all food stuffed in chewtoys, or handfed as rewards for socialization and training.
  
• Freeze-dried liver for men, strangers, and children to win your puppy's confidence and as rewards for housetraining
  
  (All links non-affiliate, just tryna be helpful :)
  
  Also, I saw this recommended somewhere. I have used a similar product for our cats and it's fucking magic, so if you're concerned your pup might be stressed, I highly recommend.
  
  ^† above, /u/caffeinatedlackey recommends against these until older

Kongs are the simplest and its really easy to "level up". Start by just putting in dry kibble, then wet kibble, then freeze the wet kibble and seal up the big hole with yogurt or peanut butter. Then you can layer it so its frozen wet kibble, cheese, kibble, yogurt, kibble, peanut butter etc. It'll start taking longer and longer to get everything out. My pup loves the Kong Wobbler too! Not only does it tire him out, but it spreads out his meal so he doesn't eat it as fast. Same with the IQ ball. The puzzle board was great for awhile but then got too easy for him. Snuffle mats are pretty easy to DIY too if you don't want to fork over the money to buy a real one.

SO and I keep our pup in an open area and just keep tabs on him, which inevitably results in a lot of us saying "stop chewing on the chair, stop chewing on the plant." So I feel you there.

If we need time where we can't watch him constantly (folding laundry, for example) we'll put him in his enclosed space, usually with something to chew on. Sometimes he barks at us or lays on top of the couch and stares at us like, "uh, guys? You forgot to let me out..." It's definitely not his favorite but sometimes it's necessary. If we really need him to be occupied we give him a bully stick; we might as well not exist when he has one of those.

As for toys, my dog loves his frizbee, his Chuck-it! ball (we can't give him regular tennis balls because he eats the fuzz off, but the Chuck it balls are pretty sturdy), and rope toys, which he can only have if we're around. Currently we have a Flossy rope toy and the Kong Tugga Wubba. He also has a few rubber chewy bones, which have held up to his chewing so far. Amazon seems to have better prices for toys than anywhere else I've found. The Flossy rope toy is huge and it cost me like $3, I think?

Another thing that keeps him occupied is a wobbling food dispenser, which another poster suggested and I also highly recommend. It makes dinner time a little more interesting for him and lets you do your own thing for a bit. We have one of these. You can adjust how difficult it is by adjusting the two openings in the toy.

Do you rotate toys out? If I introduce a new toy I always put one away and don't bring it out again for a few weeks; he goes nuts for ones he hasn't had in awhile.

Hi! I got these from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KG9WMWI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_T8f1AbDTD7GKA

They are pretty loud and I don’t think they would sound anything like your cat’s bell. These are kind of like sleigh bells. By the way, it’s not so much about the sound being for the puppy, but rather the sound is for me to be able to hear it and respond to it. I feel like for my puppy it’s more about the action of going to the door and hitting the bells. Hope this makes sense! Good luck!

Brain games are games designed to stimulate your dog. This includes working on training tricks. I'm not sure where you are based but in the UK there are a few companies that make dog puzzle toys. My favourites are Trixie and Nina Ottoson (for example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trixie-Dog-Activity-Flip-Board/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467276532&sr=8-4&keywords=trixie+dog)

The first time I gave my pup that toy, he took about 30 minutes to get through it and then collapsed on the floor from exhaustion. Unfortunately he's pretty good at getting through those toys now so I'm having to work on some other forms of puzzles for him. Fortunately we know our pup's best friend's owners and we swap brain games with them so we've got a fairly good mix of them.

Have a look into a flirt pole. It's a great training tool as well. My pup goes absolutely mental when he sees me take it out but we don't start playing with it until he's in a down and leaves the lure. The game only starts when I release him from the down. After 20 minutes, he's panting like crazy and usually falls asleep for 2 hours or so after.

DIY - freeze some kibble/treats in a Popsicle, put some kibble/treats in an empty water bottle (our dog really likes the really cheap/thin ones that crinkle when squeezed), take a muffin tin and put kibble/treats in the holes and put tennis balls on top of them (we started with a mini muffin tin so the tennis balls just sat on top of the holes so they were easy to remove, then when he was good at that, we moved to a regular muffin tin)

Commercial - Kong, Kong Wobbler, Trixie Toys (lots of options), Omega Ball, Hide-a-Squirrel, Tornado

If you haven't already, read these books; I can't stress enough how much they saved our lives. Perfect Puppy in 7 Days and Before and After Getting your Puppy. They're highly recommended here and for good reason.

> Your weekend ignore training regime, was that again in an x pen? Where you frequently went in/out of the room but not pen?
>
>

My puppy is a 16 week old Indian pariah mix that we've had since she was 12 weeks (though separated from her mother at <6 weeks, since that's the age the fosters found her at as a lost stray). The breed is known for its social playing, intelligence, but is also not big on cuddling.

I don't have an X-pen, but we do have a puppy gate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089HDZYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that has been a lifesaver.
Cords have been moved behind big furniture, like the couch, where she can't reach them.

My dog has a lot of food-toys and chews.

Food ball: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARUKU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bob-a-lot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YHB8EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"Wood" stick we use to lure her away from tempting wooden furniture legs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0754P3NSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solo-playing works best with toys that make a noise or move on their own (at least for my puppy). We've found a hard golf ball that noisily rolls across the floor (debatable whether this is a good idea; right now our puppy is too small to fit it fully in her mouth, let alone choke on it, but it's definitely hard enough that I worry she might break a tooth. But no signs of aggressive chewing yet), but she also likes other balls and stuffed toys (which she just takes in her mouth and shakes about wildly).

IMO, the food-dispensing toys are a must-have.

We also leave her dog bed and crate available in this space, and a blanket on the floor, that she likes to sit on while she chews.

Weekend training regime is the same as anything else. Dog in the living room, living room closed off with puppy gate so she can't follow us out, and is in a relatively puppy-proofed space, and toys and chews left strewn about.

She mostly sleeps through the day, now, knowing we won't engage with her playing. If she's being too noisy or needy, I'll leave her alone in the puppy-gated living room and work in another room.

I hope this helps!

These! They have stood up to my malinois and are still going strong 2 months in! They’re very similar to Kong’s but they’re more of a ball shape, she loves carrying them around. Raw marrow bones are great too

Beautiful dog.

Do you use one of the enzyme sprays on the spot she peed? That sounds a lot like territory marking which can turn into a cycle/habit if you don't completely kill the smell (including smells you can't smell).

This stuff is awesome if you haven't been:

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=484GBW13MWTD&keywords=dog+pee+spray&qid=1556117378&s=gateway&sprefix=dog+pee+spry%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

We put a tall baby gate in our laundry room (6x10 feet). His crate is there if he wants it, water, and then some chew toys. I've also seen people recommend getting a cat box and filling it with sod or whatever your puppy potties on if they have accidents in this space.

Just be mindful of which gate you use, he learned how to climb the first one in two days. We've had these for a couple months and they keep home pretty well contained. Best of luck!

Every dog is different, but the hearbeat stuffy worked for my pup. You can put a warmer in there too. I took it with me when I picked up my pup and rubbed it all over his mama to get her scent on it. The combination of his mother's scent, the warmth, and the heartbeat worked for him. I made sure his crate was blocked off to keep it small and cozy and he snuggled up with the stuffy. Do you have anything with his mother's scent? Is the breeder nearby? Is that something you can do? Even if it's just an old towel or something that you can get her scent on, it might be comforting for your pup.

Most Labs do tend to eat with gusto. Make sure he's getting enough food. They do make some different food bowls to supposedly slow dogs down.

Interactive slow pet feeder

Skidstop slow feeder bowl

Gobble stopper bowl addition

Buster dog maze

I personally have had success with the treat type balls.

Kong wobbler

Kibble Nibbler

I use a puppy seatbelt. It’s a super short leash (dog seatbelt) that clips to the dog harness (NOT collar). And then the car’s seatbelt loops through the short leash. It keeps the pup safe and off your lap.

Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.NhACbA0HZJV2

I'm going through the exact same thing right now!!! A note on crate training, what I've been doing (and PLEASE if someone more experienced wants to correct me on this I want to learn) is leaving the crate open all day in whatever room we're in (stays in either the corner of my room where it stays for bedtime or the corner of my boyfriends living room when we visit I there). When we play with a toy, about every third throw is into the crate. Beau is getting the hang of climbing in and out of it and isn't associating it with being locked up. I'm lucky in that he only whines for maybe 10 minutes before going to sleep. I make sure the LAST thing we do at night (or anytime before crating) is a potty break. Then I put him in there with a Kong that he mostly ignores and ignore him. I tried talking to him from my bed and that seemed to only prolong the whining. I also purchased a [snuggle puppy](Smart Pet Love Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Golden https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S753WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_15oMxbGYBS4VM) which has a little motorized heartbeat and a place for a heating pack. It's supposed to remind him of mom or his pack. I got it yesterday so he's only used it for one night but I feel like it cut down the whining for a bit or two. When we got up at 5am for a potty break (he can't sleep through the night all the way but he can make it from 11:30 to 5am, I'm so proud) he only whined for maybe 3 minutes before falling back asleep. I also try my best to tired him out as much as possible for crating. At bedtime this means I have to wake him up from a nap and rile him up a bit which is frustrating when I'm tired but it makes the difference before 3am and 5am. I really want the crate to work out cuz he's so small (under 4lbs) and I need him contained so he doesn't hurt himself overnight or on car rides. Plus I was told that eventually the crate becomes a safe place for the dog, like a bedroom for a teenager. Pretty much you don't bother the dog when it goes into its crate and there's a chance it'll take its own timeouts when it's overwhelmed or scared. That's the goal at least.

I think one of the most important things for someone who has never had a dog before is to learn about how dogs communicate. Body language, canine cognition...these sorts of things give you a really good foundation for working with your dog, and they help you avoid some beginner mistakes.

I highly recommend reading:

• "Inside of a Dog" by Alexandra Horowitz
  
  
• "On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals" by Turid Rugaas
  
  
• "The Other End of the Leash" by Patricia McConnell
  
  There are also a ton of other book recommendations on the /r/dogtraining wiki here.

I use this..http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450064798&sr=8-1&keywords=urine+destroyer and it works pretty well. Our 10-week-old puppy has an area she likes to pee in as well and this helps eliminate the enzymes.

My Springer spaniel girl loves puzzle toys! I got her a Bobalot and Kong 'flying saucer' plus a puzzle bowl, all of which she loves!

I recommend these. They clip nicely on to her harness and she doesn't seem to mind it. She is far more comfortable with this than she used to be on my lap.

Thanks for the thoughtful response. We have considered day care but the last and only time we boarded him the owner charged us extra for having a high maintenance dog and said he has "severe separation anxiety". She told us to read this book . Although, we might try again. He does well when he's around other dogs.

The book is where we got that food technique. I give him his meal, say bye and leave the home. I re-enter, say hello and take his bowl early. Then repeat. It's not really helping. He's just learning to eat faster.

I love the weekend training idea and think that could produce results. As for the barking, I tried something new this morning. We did a training session where I would treat quiet and sitting behavior while standing just outside the front door. If he was quiet and sitting then I would open the door and give him kibble. I am only worried this will reinforce him heavily anticipating our return to the house. Thoughts?

I just got two of these
https://smile.amazon.com/KONG-Puppy-Kong-Small-Assorted/dp/B0002AR18C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496790665&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+kong

And one of these
https://smile.amazon.com/KONG-StuffN-Treat-8-Ounce-Puppy/dp/B0009YD7P2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496790691&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+kong+stuffing

Although like I said, sometimes we use small dabs of peanut butter. I got two so that I could switch them out - so he can have one to chew on (empty) during the day and one in the freezer. I've never had a chewer before, so this was my first experience with Kongs, and so far, they're great!

Pup should always be in a kennel if you're not there! This one worked really well for my pups. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAVNWSK?aaxitk=1LKwoTnZiyptLQiYABTvfg&pd_rd_i=B00QAVNWSK&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=4416700210801&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fm.media-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F91sf00skrsL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B00QAVNWSK

Make sure the crate is just big enough that pup can sit down, stand, get rotate. Make sure its not too big so that way they aren't pooping or peeing in a corner of the crate. If pup is crying when in the crate, ignore it. When she stops crying or barking, give treats. This will help for her to see it's a positive experience and not a negative one. At our house, we also feed meals in the crate and give special toys or treats in the crate.

Does your baby gate have horizontal bars? Our pup learned really early on to climb out of his x-pen by sticking his feet on the horizontal bars, climbing to the top, then jumping off. It was really scary, one time he got his foot caught and was dangling upside down. Luckily we were at home, but I crated him from then on.

Now he's older and roams more, we use baby gates that only have vertical bars so he can't climb out. There are what we have: https://www.amazon.com/Regalo-Easy-White-spaces-between/dp/B001OC5UMQ/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=baby-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1469486747&sr=1-1&keywords=baby+gate. You have to make sure though that the vertical bars aren't wide enough for your pup to fit though.

P.S. (It didn't fit in the other post!) I've now tried the second feeding device that I got, the Company of Animals Interactive Feeder, and I am very happy with it; Indra seems to be too! I am alternating between feeding him in this and the Kong Wobbler. It definitely slows the process down and he has to work at getting his food, which is apparently the "mental stimulation" thing. :~)

I don't know about extra large, but you could always buy two wire play pens and hook them up, plus crate.

My set up is usually one of these, attached to a crate of the same height (not a must, but I find puppies try to get over the "shortest" part). It ends up looking like this.

I used this one and liked it a lot for what I was looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Exercise-8-Panel-Playpen-White/dp/B00D5P8450

Pros:

• plastic and has rubber nubs on the bottom so won't scratch floors.
  
  
• Each panel can be separated and you can buy additional panels in sets of 2 (or buy a whole second pen and connect them together).
  
  
• Has a door so you can let dog in/out easily without separating panels.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Plastic, so if you have a chewer they might be able to get through it.
  
  
• Only 34" tall, so it'll depend on the height of your dog and if they like jumping.
  
  
• Not as thin as the wire ones, so takes up more space when storing.

A flirt pole has been my puppy's favorite toy ever since we got him at 8 weeks (he is 10 months now). It's sooo useful for tiring him out, indoors or out!

Adding to the snuffle mat suggestions - you can get all sorts of puzzles feeders too. Or for wet food use a Kong - freeze it for extra difficulty!

We use these:

GREEN Interactive Feeder, Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009CKHXYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ih.YCb8E5RS2S

Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado Treat Puzzle Dog Toy by Outward Hound https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07239T47Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ih.YCbFX6XDKA

The second looks harder but the first actually takes him long and is easier for us to set up! But we try to use both to change things up.

playpen

Maybe something like this in your living room so the pup can see you? Put puppy pad in the play pen area?

We use this cleaner for both dog and cat messes and it works great. Try the cat one out first and see what happens.

This is what we use: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=puppy+seatbelt&qid=1564084399&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Attached to her harness. 4 mo goldendoodle, she likes it fine!

Regalo Easy Step Walk Thru Gate, White, Fits Spaces between 29" and 39" Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC5UMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4dghzbNTQG8KR

This was $32. The gaps were too wide for our small breed puppy (7lbs at the time) though. Also consider buying used through Amazon, it's just a gate after all!

So, I actually bought the bells at Tomlinsons(?), but they look just like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KG9WMWI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AluxDbMFMJ6FN

It hangs on the door handle, and we would manually use her paws to jingle the bells before going outside every time. It felt dumb at the time haha, but she picked it up! She started nosing the bells and looking over at us. She will still occasionally have an accident inside, but it’s getting better!

I ended up getting something like this for my pup and due to the breed, it worked for me since he used it for a few months. However, goldens grow bigger and faster than Boston Terriers for sure. So I'm not sure it's really worth the price for your situation.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Black-Soft-Sided-Pet-Carrier/dp/B00QHC01C2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540302534&sr=8-5&keywords=dog+travel+carrier

Do you know anyone with pets that might have a smaller carrier that you could borrow for this trip?

I eventually moved my pup to use this with a blanket under him. (Only use it with a harness though, not on a collar which could be dangerous to your pup) So in a pinch, it should work and last you a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540302815&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dog+car+harness+seat+belt&psc=1

Here's a good article with DIY instructions. You can also buy them on Amazon

We've been having the same struggles with our 12 week old lab! He will only start to eat his kibble if something (boiled chicken, rice, carrot, etc) is mixed in with it. Once he's eaten all of the treats from it, he'll leave the kibble, despite the fact that he's still hungry. However, put that exact same kibble into a puzzle toy, and he eats it right up!?

We've been putting his 'leftovers' into this puzzle toy and he loves it. Always finishes his kibble.

Thats good! Just keep an eye out incase he does have another episode of diarrhea as Giarda can have an episodic presentation and not present with symptoms at times.

As far as the crate goes, you only want enough room for him to turn around in and lay down. The idea is that if he were to go in his crate he would have to lay in it. The crate that I purchased came with a divider that you can place in the crate so you can adjust the size as the pup grows. Another thing that I learned is not to use a liner that is super absorbent. At first I was laying a blanket in the crate for my pup to lay on, but occasionally she would just pee on it and it would not be a big deal because the blanket would just absorb it all up and not be much of an inconvenience to her.

I've used similar products and attach to the back fo their harness

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MEy1CbFBTBQE9

Just to chime in: I have a Corgi pup, and we bought her this. It’s been clutch.

You can dispense treats with it, but we often put her food in it to occupy her while we eat.

I got this flirt pole from Amazon when it went on sale. My westies go nuts for it but it doesn't do much for my GSD mix.