(Part 2) Best products from r/radiocontrol

First of all, I would never attach your cell phone to a helicopter (I doubt many--if any, could even hold it). They make cheap cameras that are made to attach to the bottom of RC helicopters. Go that route :)

Now I just sort've got into this hobby. I know very little but I can give you some advice.

There are 3 types of RC Helicopters:

-Coaxial = two sets of rotor blades (not including tail rotor) EASIEST AND CHEAPEST
-Fixed Pitch = single rotor with fixed blade pitch EASIER AND CHEAPER
-Collective Pitch = single rotor with controllable blade pitch HARDEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE

Those are also listed from easiest to hardest to fly. You can learn to fly a coaxial in like 20-30 minutes if that. Coaxial heli's will easily hover with little to no controller input as the gyro/accelerometer does all the work and dual rotors are inherently stable. A good first coaxial could be the Syma S107 @ $27. Feel free to skip to a fixed pitch heli if you are daring but with the Syma S107 being less than $30 you should still get it.

Fixed pitch heli's are an entirely different animal as I've recently learned. They are much less stable than a coaxial helicopter but not uncontrollable if you are patient and careful. The physics behind a FP heli is much different than a Coax. These heli's are also more powerful (usually) so be very gentle otherwise you'll be replacing parts even more so than you will normally. YOU WILL NEED TO BUY REPLACEMENT PARTS. YOU WILL CRASH. Keep in mind though, it's not completely terrifying :). Don't be afraid to learn. I love and recommend getting a Blade 120 SR @ $160-180. I just got one and I love it. It's so fun. It's so appealing to fly a single rotor heli because it's more realistic and challenging.

Finally, you have Collective Pitch helicopters. These are what the "pros" use. The rotor blades have a variable pitch that allows for very intense and tricky maneuvers. These are sometimes called 3D helicopters because (if you are skilled enough) can fly them upside down or any direction in between while zipping through the air. I don't know too much about them because I'm still learning to fly a fixed pitch heli. Do NOT start with one of these helicopters. The Blade 450 3D @ $470 is a common example of a Collective Pitch 3D helicopter. As you can see they are quite expensive.

Helicopter Cameras: EXAMPLE

TL;DR: Start with a coaxial (Syma S107) to learn. Then move up to a fixed pitch helicopter (Blade 120 SR). Buy lots of replacement parts/training gear/flight sim (optional). Get used to crashing. Don't fly too high at first. Have fun!

It is a lot to learn at first and can seem very daunting. However, once you learn how each part works and interacts with the others it becomes pretty easy and fun to put things together.

If you only need to drive two motors to control the two driven wheels then you'll only use two of the six channels you have available. You can assign each channel to a stick axis on the TX or use mixing to control them together.

Having each channel on stick axis would have you move both sticks forward to drive forward and both sticks backward to drive backward. Turning would be done by moving the sticks different amounts or different directions depending on how fast you want to turn. The benefit of this method is that it's easier to set up. The downside is that your Tx probably doesn't center the vertical axis on one of the sticks. This would make it hard to control. Some transmitters have the ability to turn on centering on that axis by opening the case and adjusting a screw or spring. I don't know if that's an option on yours.

Thr other way you can control your channels is by mixing the inputs (stick movements) to the outputs (commands sent to motors) using the menus in the Tx. This takes more work in programming the mixes in the Tx but would allow you to control movement with one stick by pushing it forward to drive forward, backward to drive backward, and sideways to turn. The mix would convert the stock position into the commands needed for each motor. I would probably try this method first and use the other method if it takes too long to figure out the mix.

For power on the robot, you have two considerations. The receiver and any servos you want to drive will need 5V. The motors will need whatever they are rated for. Batteries do not come in 5V so you will need a voltage regulator (called a BEC in hobby parts). If you want to drive servos, make sure you get at least 2A. 3A is better. If you're just offering the receiver then 1A is plenty. You can connect the voltage regulator in parallel with the motor drivers on the same battery to keep the part count down or use a separate battery for redundancy.

Powering the motors will require a circuit that can convert a pwm pulse into a DC voltage that can go either positive or negative relative to the motor's ground. You can make a circuit to do this (H bridge) or buy one (electronic speed controller/ESC). Buying is obviously easier but making it can be rewarding if you have the electronics knowledge and time. I made one once and will probably never do it again. If you choose to buy an ESC make sure it is for brushed motors and supports reverse.

DC motors are brushed. Brushless motors use switched 3 phase current and are harder to control. You wouldn't want to try making the circuit for that.

I'd suggest buying a couple of brushed speed controllers and hooking the motors up to the receiver early on just to start playing with how the controls work and how everything hooks up. Something like this would supply up to 10A at 8V and has a BEC built in to power the receiver without a separate voltage regulator. Your motors are rated for 12V so you would want a esc that's rated for 3S batteries to get full speed from them at 12V. You can drive them at lower voltage, they just don't go as fast. With a mac shipped off 50RPM you'll probably be fine driving them at lower voltage if you choose to.
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-Brushed-Motor-Speed-Controller/dp/B00JXI3H6Y/ref=pd_aw_sim_21_3/135-3030252-4248969?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JXI3H6Y&pd_rd_r=88ce235c-2f84-11e9-b749-21300a56b15d&pd_rd_w=Uj4Q1&pd_rd_wg=9ylcL&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=YJG0RZ5J9R6H8JS09SBX&psc=1&refRID=YJG0RZ5J9R6H8JS09SBX

Sorry for the long link. I'm on mobile.

Batteries are another thing altogether and would require a separate post. If someone else is making the offer system, get with them early to figure out the battery voltage so you can pick the right speed controller.

Actually, since you never mentioned a budget, I'd definitely recommend as an excelent trainer aircraft is a Hangar 9 Alpha .40 Trainer.

I actually started off my flying with the much larger alpha .60 trainer(Proof, because I can. :3), but I loved every minute of flying those things. There's a reason why RC flying clubs keep a few on hand for the purpose of buddy boxing with new flyers! (An example of what a buddy box is if anyone doesn't know.)

It may not be electric, but that means there's no batteries to charge often, just one to charge overnight hooked up to the receiver to run the servos. Maintainence on it or god forbid crash repair, will gain one very valuable experience when it comes to advancing in the hobby of airplane modeling.

On top of that, it flyes very, very well. Once you get experience flying it, you can just change the prop size out for something that will make it fly much faster, allowing for some fast flying, making it a fun plane to fly until you accidentally destroy it beyond repair, or never do that and keep it for the rest of your life.

LAST THING!

Buy a good RC flight simulator that works with an actual transmitter, like realflight 7.5.You can put in anything you would ever want to fly and get used to flying it and build up skill that will help a whole lot when you head out and fly the real thing. That includes 3D helicopters you can play with and destroy until you figure out an advanced maneuver you want to try in real life. It worth the money in aircraft crashes and really gives you a chance to actually practice very risky maneuvers with planes without having to crash and repair several times.

TL:DR; Just thought i'd add my two cents, I may not be one of the biggest experts out there or anything, but I have been flying for a month shy of seven years!

Edit: I love how I'm getting downvoted because I'm not talking about cheap foam planes or quadcopters with FPV in mind. This is /r/radiocontrol, Not /r/fpvquad.

I did not end up getting it, found a different gift.

Another option I forgot to mention is a quadcopter - depending on how you fly them and the level of electronics, they can be easier than a plane, or about the same as a fixed-pitch (simple) helicopter. The micro ones are really cheap (~$50) and fun to play with, though I find them a little boring compared to helis.

I don't know much about boats but yea I did see the self-righting feature of the barbwire. Personally I would hate to have my boat flip over and have to go out into the water to get it. Depends how convenient it is to go into the water though. It's all about your situation. If you're standing on dry land in normal clothes and your boat flips over or somehow dies, I guess you just have to be prepared with a long stick or rope or something to get it out. That's what turns me away from the idea of boats. But if you're in a swimsuit and planning on going into the water anyway, then I guess it wouldn't be a problem.

I guess one more thing I'll say is, what are you looking for in terms of fun? Do you know what you will find amusing? Everyone has their own underlying reasons; I personally fly helis because of the big challenge of controlling them, keeping their orientation in your head and avoiding the ground. Some people like the act of building and the joy of seeing something you built actually work (or not), thus the other comments here about building your own foamie plane. R/C car guys are often into racing others around a track or crawling over rocks, which sounds like it can be challenging.

In terms of helicopters, the starter ones are usually the mCX 2 and the mSR X (wow that's cheap! must be about to announce a new one). Good starter planes are called "trainers", they usually have a high wing and only 3 channels (throttle/elevator/rudder, no aileron), popular two are Champ and Super Cub. For quadcopters, you simply start with a full-featured but micro one, the Syma X1 is most commonly recommended and very cheap. I don't know enough about the cars to recommend. But notice all of these are cheaper than the boats... Granted, they're all smaller than a boat, but when it comes to something flying through the air, smaller and lighter means less likely to break in a crash. Only once you have your orientations down and can keep the micro size in the air, should you graduate to full size. That's not a fact but a commonly accepted opinion. On the other hand, for boats and cars, you basically can't break them unless you try (slam it into a wall, drop it off a cliff, make it go over a huge jump) or of course if something just goes bad on its own, so you can start with the biggest boat or car you can find and be just fine. If you're looking for size from the start, cars and boats are the way to go.

I would suggest getting a battery checker (or you can use a voltmeter but it's kind of a pain). These are sufficient - just plug the balance lead into the prongs and it will cycle through each cell and tell you the voltage (in your case since it is single cell it doesn't need a balance lead).

Once you have a battery meter of some sort, fly for 5 minutes or whatever, come down and immediately check the battery voltage. If you wait more than a minute or so the battery will "level out" and not give an accurate reading. If you are way above 3.75 (like 3.9+) then you can add 2+ minutes, if you are lower then you start cutting off time.

The best way to get a battery down to storage voltage is to fly but not drain it completely, come down a minute early and it should be fairly close to 3.85, and that is good enough.

What /u/kwaaaaaaaaa said in the other comment about voltages is good stuff. It doesn't change for a bigger battery. Lipos are made of "cells" - a bigger battery just has multiple cells of 3.7v (this is the "nominal voltage", getting a bit technical, you can read up on it). Fully charged it is 4.2v per cell (so 12.6v total for a 3s). This is done for manufacturing purposes - it's a lot easier to just a whole bunch of 3.7v cells and then put them in series than trying to make cells of different voltages.

Edit: And also, I'd look into to getting a better charger once you are ready to get that 3S airplane. Even a cheaper model like this is worlds better than the chargers that come with the airplanes. I like the AC/DC plugin chargers for starting out, and they make a nice backup/travel charger if you move onto a bigger charger later.

I use like a headmount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R4YCKIK

The little mount thing yeah at first its mostly difficult to adjust to get right angle, so you have right amount of sky vs ground. But for most part you adjust once and then it stays at that angle. I use a Yi4k+ and you can also check frame connecting to wifi with phone.

But then yeah you do need to change your behavior just slightly.. trying to look with your head a tiny bit more.. instead of like 70% eyes 30% head try to do like 50% eyes 50% head and you stay in frame. You actually still want to use your eyes because then you get heli moving from one edge of frame to the other and not keep it dead center. Only other unnatural thing is looking down.. you tend to look up with your head but if you come in real close its more natural to look down with just eyes and you need to remind yourself to tilt your head down.

I mean I guess it sounds complicated, and its not totally fullproof.. but IMO its easy. Usually I just record like 5-6 packs and one of them is decent enough. You can also adjust FOV on camera... use a wider angle at first and then try more narrow FOV when you get used to it... I don't know with helis though they're so big, with quadcopters generally wide angle quad is way too small.

And if anything I think its even more important for 3D fllying.. you can change directions so easily the camera man always ends up delayed. Your current video I admit look good for most part, although camera movement is still delayed.. its not like some videos that are garbage when camera guy is just too slow to keep up.

Quadmovr uses a gopro headstrap.. I just think this video looks so much cleaner than 99% of helicopter videos.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIKJfpy_s_k

The camera movement just is aligned so well.. and you can see he's moving around in frame, he's looking with his eyes, but just a little extra head movement keeps quad in frame.

Eg another video, I dunno I just love this sorta look..
https://youtu.be/dtylvrkWOdc?t=56

I'm just always advocating for headmount setups, lol. ;)

Hey

Disclaimer: I do not own a nano cp s nor a dx6i, and english is my second language so…

I did a bit of research about collective pitch heli, so I might be able to answer some of your questions so:

First, Single transmitter versus AR610 receiver: the one with the AR610 receiver, it's if you want to use it in boat/planes/car or even bigger helicopter. If you only plan to fly the cp s it is not need to buy (for now, flying is addictive).

Mode 2 is a good idea for helicopter, so you have your cyclic on the same stick (right one).

You do not need anything else to fly with nano, only the transmiter. It would be a very good idea to get more batteries and a charger unless you plan to fly 6/7min and wait more than half an hour to fly again for your battery to charge (and it's a good idea to wait for the battery to cool down after flying and after charging (and for cp s motor too unless they will burn very fast too)).

You'll need a charger, two ways of going:

1s charger

Charger and parallel harness/board, more hassle than the 1s one, but if you plan to fly something bigger someday, you would have to buy one anyway.

If you only want a 1s charger, looks like something like this http://www.amazon.com/E-Flite-Celectra-4-Port-Battery-Charger/dp/B001XIMGP0/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B607A3B3CNZK8RSK8R9 or Hitec X4 (I think) would be a good buy.

For the battery, as the horizon hobby website show, it uses the same as Nano qx so:

http://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Lectron-Pro-3-7-volt/dp/B0088W63AS/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r%2BuA5GizL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR135%2C135_&refRID=0F6HY90N2525TFX3XDWA (I didnt test those mysef)

Mylipo.De 205mah (didnt test those myself too)

I tested those for nano Qx: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38358__Turnigy_nano_tech_160mah_1S_25_40C_Lipo_Kyosho_E_flite_Nano_CP_X_Parkzone_Etc_EU_Warehouse_.html but they were a bit bigger than the original battery, had to use a dremel to make it fit, not that of a good idea. (edit: they are not high quality battery, they are standard, cheap, but you get what you pay for. For me at least, couple of them already show increased resistance (might be because of the shitty plug))

For sim:

I'm using this one everyday:
http://www.heli-x.info/cms/ it even have a mac version!

Now, for the cable, I have no idea since I dont have a dx6i.
But google said:
Heli-X DX6I and Mac

I suggest you ask your question on:
Helifreak They have a section special cp s

Some very interesting reading:

Newbies guide to the DX6i for RC helicopters how to set up the dx6i to calm down the helicopter
From tail-in to all 8s and funnels in 6 months. Plan to learn 3d flying ? Read that post, very interesting.

Why the nano cp s and dx6i combo by the way ?

Well, went longer than expected … heh

The only real way around your battery issue is to buy a couple of extras. I'm not familiar with this quad but did find this on Amazon. Comes with 2 extra batteries and allows you to charge 3 at once. As it's powered by USB, I'm a bit skeptical as to how quick it'll charge them though.

What attracts me to the hobby? For me it's and extension of a lifelong love of aviation. It's a great way to de-stress after a crap week at work. It's sociable and perfect for catching up with friends. It allows me to tinker and be creative. There're so many reasons!

This is what's known as FPV flying. (First person view). There are a lot of parts to choose from and a lot to know before you attempt something like this. It sounds like you don't know how to fly an RC plane. This is obviously a necessary skill to have before you move forward. Start here.

Most of these FPV videos are taken on a rear propeller type plane so the prop is out of view. These planes typically have two cameras. One is a low resolution closed circuit cam that transmits back to your ground station (same as a security system camera). You can view through video goggles, an LCD screen, a laptop, DVR, you pick. The other camera records high definition video locally to a memory card. Additionally, both cameras are usually mounted on one tilt/pan system.

There are entire forums dedicated to this on RCGroups.com such as this thread and this thread..

You can find video transmission systems on site like this one.

Any compact/light weight digital cam will work for the HD recording. GoPro Hero is a popular model for this hobby.

This is just the beginning. There are tons more parts, add-ons, gyros, special antennas, transmitter upgrades, etc...

I would suggest you start by attaching a GoPro or similar camera to your familiar RC plane (making sure it doesn't upset your CG), and fly it in third person like normal. This is quite fun. Once you get good at that, order a video transmitter/receiver/camera, and a way to view it.

I personally use elgato device to run the video transmission into my Macbook pro, although this can be hard to see outdoors because of glare. A cardboard box helps.

Advice: Make sure you pick your video transmitter/receiver carefully. Many are illegal to operate, depending on where you live. Also, start off with cheap gear in case you decide it's not for you.

Above all, have fun and be safe with it.

EDIT: typos

I don't recognize the chassis, so can't recommend a specific body. If you have a decent RC hobby shop close by, you could just take it there and get help fitting whatever bodies they have in stock.

The 27mhz, especially the crystal radio sets are quite old now, and may be hard to find or unreliable at best. You should be able to get any 2-3 channel car radio set and just replace the receiver you have with the one that will be included in the box. This one is priced very well, and should be an excellent radio for $37.

For the battery, that charger will work, the connector is a Standard / Tamiya plug. If that's the battery that's been in the attic, it's probably toast though, so again, off to the hobby store. You'll want a 7.2v NiCd or NiMh, unless you want to upgrade to LiPo, which will require a different charger. I'd stick with NiCd or NiMh for a kid though, as they're less hassle with charging safely and discharging to store.
Here's One for $18 and looks to have the right plug. A battery with higher mAh will last longer running the car.
This Charger will work fine, more expensive chargers will have more options, usually be able to charge faster, or different battery styles. I'd buy 2 batteries, run one and charge one, or charge both and go to the park.

Good luck and have fun!

Step 1: Buy a multimeter. I prefer the Fluke 87v http://amzn.com/B0002YFD1K Sure it's $387, but it'll pay for itself eventually.

Step 2: You'll need to take apart the charger. A good set of screwdrivers would definitely help. http://amzn.com/B000NZ5QG0 It's only $40. Wiha maybe isn't the best, but I like them and they do offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Step 3: Once you open it up, you can start testing it with the multimeter. Inevitably, however, you'll probably have to solder something. Hakko is a popular brand for good reason. This one is under $100 AND it comes with wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00AWUFVY8

Step 4: After you put it back together and find out that it's still not working, buy a replacement charger.

I learned to fly on my own, with some input from my uncle who is an expert RC pilot, and alot of online research. First, I would recommend getting a decent transmitter and not cheaping out, for reliability, features, and to have one that will carry over to future planes. I have the Spektrum DX6i for about $140. You can find them at most hobby shops, or Amazon, eBay, etc. You can use this transmitter with a mono 1/8" cable to plug into your sound card, and use the free simulator [FMS] (http://modelsimulator.com/) along with a program called Smart Propo Plus to practice flying for free. For your first plane, I would start with the Hobbyzone Super Cub. It's a nice prop plane with no ailerons, which makes it very easy to learn takeoff and landing techniques. It handles well, parts are readily available and cheap. It is also very durable and will handle rough crashes well. This version is Bind & Fly. This means there is easy assembly, and you simply install a jumper to automatically bind the receiver to your transmitter. Let me know if this helps, I can write more details about how I started learning to actually fly.

Those are actually pretty extreme pitches if it is correct. Usually around +/- 13 both pitch direction is the norm. +23 should definitely give you lift, so check if there's any main gear slippage during throttle. Hold the rotor head and try to rotate the main gear by hand. It should rotate one direction but not the other way (or else you have a one-way bearing slip). If you have an outrunner motor, hold the motor and rotate the gear to see if there's any slip (or you may have pinion/gear slip).

This is not related to the lift, but to the vibrations. Definitely balance your blades, I recommend a cheap micro scale like this one. It'll save SO much frustration in the long run, because vibrations make the beastx wonky sometimes. Also make sure you have a good dampening adhesive pad when mounting the beastx (like the 3M foam stuff works well). Lastly, don't zip tie the servo cables too closely to the beastx, it causes oscillations/vibrations that transfer to the beastx. Give it like 2 or 3 inches of slack.

The thing with lipos is that they can't really be charged faster than 20-30 minutes and really should only be charged over an hour. Charging them faster is bad for them and makes them go bad faster than normal or explode. Literally. With fire and mayhem.

You specced out a 1000-watt charger for batteries ranging from 3s-1500mah = 15 watt-hours to 4s-2200 = 27 watt-hours. So basically, even assuming that you wanted to charge at 2C for 30-minute charging, which is aggressive but safe, you would only need 30 - 52 watts.

1000 watts could theoretically charge a 4s-2200 battery in about 90 seconds. I say theoretically because in reality it would simply explode into fire and mayhem.

The charger you chose would be good if you have a 50,000mah 6-cell and needed it charged in 30 minutes. :)

You would be much better served by buying a multi-port charger of moderate wattage. Then you can safely charge multiple batteries at once, of the size that you are expecting to use, and even bigger.

I really like my Hitec X4. For less money that the one you were looking at, you get basically four separate chargers each with their own LCD displays in one package. Each of the 4 ports can do up to a 6000mah 3-cell at 1C, or larger batteries slower, and smaller ones faster.

I use this power supply when home, and connect to my car battery when in the field. I've been very happy with the setup.

Its probably worth it to get a decent transmitter. I would personally recommend the Taranis Qx7 but you could also buy a Spektrum Dx6 or a FlySky-I6. Keep in mind these use different protocols so make sure to get a compatible reciever.
A word about flitetest: Their power packs and speed build kits are kind of expensive as they use drone motors, waterproof foam board, and laser cutting. Their construction methods, while they make great flying planes, they are a bit involved (require curved, symmetrical cuts, a folding, sometimes soldering skill), and they are not durable in my experience (particularly their wings). For example, the Storch with PP-C would run $100. You can build a plane for ~$60 using Experimental Airlines methods(Not including reusable stuff like Transmitter and batteries).
I stared with an Experimental Airlines Noobtube and I would recommend either this plane or the EA Axon for any beginner. The Noobtube is a bit fast and has a front mounted propeller, though.
As far as gear, here are some components I personally use:
30A ESC
Turnigy 2826-6 2200kv
9g Servos ($1.80 each!)
Pushrods
6x4 props or even a 3-blade 6x4.
A couple more things you may find useful: servo wire extenders, landing gear, gift cards, and duct tape.

Yes, a Mobius cam. It's matchbook sized, 1080P and weighs a few grams. I use them on ultralight radio control helicopters that can't lift as much as a pigeon so it shouldn't be a problem. https://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2

This is a video I shot of my 130x helicopter crashing from a pretty good distance up. Good idea of the video quality. This heli is the size of a paper plate and weighs like 3 ounces.

I got this one at Amazon for $50. I liked it so much I bought a second one to fly with friends.

For your requirements you should check out a Devo transmitter running open-source Deviation firmware. You'll get 12 channels of DSM (2 or X) with any supported Devo transmitter with no hardware mods.

The Devo 7e is USD$60 at the low end. I like the Devo 10. And 12S at the high end.

The 7e is range limited unless you make a hardware mod, but probably not necessary for combat robots.

And only one antenna :)

This is a little pricier but you can have it tomorrow. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Transmitter-Helicopter-Multicopter-Fixed-wing/dp/B01M0P8Q8U/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495083860&sr=1-2&keywords=rc+transmitter

You'll also want some cheap servos
https://www.amazon.com/J-Deal-Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Controls/dp/B015H5AVZG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495084159&sr=8-2&keywords=servos

And you also need an ESC, motor, prop, and battery. If you don't have a soldering iron you'll have to find an esc and motor with pre-soldered connectors.

This is a very good camera

I used to use one, until I 'sploded it in a seriously gnarly crash.

It's an older camera, and I'm sure there are more modern cams with similar performance for less, but it's what I've used for a long time.

Look into getting a Mobius Action camera. It's about half the weight of a GoPro session. 1080p video or stills. They also have a wide angle lens available too.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503240904&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=mobius+1080p+hd+action+camera&psc=1

Here is the mobile version of your link