(Part 2) Best products from r/rccars

> I talked to a local hobby shop for a little this past weekend, and they mentioned two things - one low quality AA batteries, and two, if the end of the TQi receiver cable is bent/kinked, it's shot. I had only bought Target branded AA's, since I needed so many for the older remote, but I did buy some Duracell's to make sure it wasn't that. I did read somewhere that it could be the servo's pulling power if they're faulty, but wanted to get any insight. I was also wondering if the TQi receiver was expecting more/different power than the 4 AA's from the pack on the rear of the truck.

Alkaline AA batteries won't be able to provide enough power for the servos if they're drawing higher currents. You need rechargeable AA NiMH batteries to give them a kick and keep them moving, if they will move at all (they might just burn out). I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer.
  
  If the Eneloops are too expensive for you, or you want 25% longer run time, another good option are these decent rechargeables, but you will need to buy them 5 times to match the longevity of Eneloop, so they will cost more in the long run even though they're cheaper up front:
  
  
• IKEA LADDA AA NiMH 2450 mAh rechargeable battery 4 pack
  
  Eneloops won't last super long if you're fully depleting them by using them for motors. In that case, it's not such a good deal, and you might be better off with the $7 IKEA LADDA AA NiMH batteries.
  
  You ought to get rechargeable batteries just to save money and save the planet, but I don't know if that's the problem. What you're describing sounds kind of like an interference issue. If you're able to use a scanner or other kind of receiver to listen or look at the frequencies your crystals are working on, you can find out for sure if you have a strong signal without interference. You could use this to investigate interference issues (and see a whole new world you didn't know about):
  
  
• AmazonSmile: RTL-SDR Blog R820T2 RTL2832U 1PPM TCXO SMA Software Defined Radio with 2x Telescopic Antennas: Electronics
  
• AmazonSmile: BlueRigger USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension/Repeater Cable - 32FT (10M): Gateway (get 2 maximum for each RTL-SDR)
  
  You only need the USB extension cables if you want to put the receiver far away from your PC. You can use up to 2 them before exceeding the maximum length. You probably don't need them for this particular project, but they might be handy for other things.

Depends on what you want to run. The default answer is always going to be a Traxxas Velineon system or a Castle 3800 with an MMP or the SCT version. Make sure you do a little price shopping as I'm sure you can find better prices on both. Those seems to be the most popular with slash's. Both are awesome - if you plan on trying out 3S lipo I would go with a Castle for sure and it's cheaper to boot, but the Velineon system is pretty much plug and play as the ESC will bolt right in and go.

My platinum has the Velineon in it and I've been pretty happy with it, runs great. ~37MPH on 2S lipo and 13/54 stock gearing. However it doesn't agree with 3S as it gets too hot. When it comes time to upgrade one of my brushed trucks to brushless (when the motor goes out) I'm going to put my Velineon in it and buy a castle 3800 or 2650 for mine and swap fully over to 3S.

As far as batteries go most all of them can run Nimh or 2s lipo - some will run 3S A LOT better especially in the temp department. But that's mainly up to tires/gearing and your driving style.

To add onto that:

I have been using the Pro-Line Hyrax 2.2" G8 and love them. I will say I had great fun with the stock tires though. I ended up putting wheel weights in with the Hyrax tires. They are bigger than stock (fits fine on stock rim, will need to trim body slightly in rear) and I felt that I rolled easier. Possible higher center of gravity, but I didn't do anything specific to measure. So I added wheel weights and everything seems great now (albeit more stress on the other parts due to unsprung weight). These weights will stick to the rim (on the inside, not outside like real cars) and wrapped with some electrical tape they haven't budged. I've put them through a lot of water/mud and they're doing just fine. I used these weights because it was cheaper than alternative scale wheels weights, and I can add a lot more. Since the crawler is slow I'm not worried about how they imbalance the wheel.

I'm copying from one of my other comments for the next part, but I think it's still useful. Links for parts needed to convert to 4 wheel steer:

You can convert it to 4 wheel steer if you ever feel the need. You would need a new remote that has 3 channels unless you do a permanent 4 wheel steer. For that you would need servo plate, side linkage, y harness reverser, servo linkage, servo. Of course part 5 (servo) can be whatever you choose. To make it non-full time 4 wheel steer you would need to do more research. I have not done it. I believe you need another transmitter to go with the 3 channel radio you would need.

OP, enjoy the crawler! It's fun and I agree with /u/cwerd that the mod bug is always there with crawlers.

if its any help, I would personally recommend https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-Transmitter-Receiver-Crawler-Drifting/dp/B07DPNNTWT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=radiolink+rc6gs+2.4g&qid=1563824152&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

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it does have the extra channels, but it is also highly rated for its range. Can use AA batteries(takes 6 instead of the standard 4) as well as up to a 2s Lipo battery. The company states it can reach up to 600 feet, my guess with the 2s Lipo setup. Hope it helps or steers ya in a better direction searching for one! Happy RC'ing!!

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Edit: Range Meters to Feet

I own the 12428 and hopefully my answers will help you.

First: this is normal for this car, when you apply power to the wheels they well straighten out because of the plastic tie rods. If you want something more rigid then you could buy aftermarket parts that replace all the plastic tie rods with adjustable metal ones.

Second: I don't believe this is an issue but will have to run my car again to see if I get a noise like you are describing.

Third: you can find a universal adapters for your charger that will have the Deans (T style) connector. You can use something like this. https://smile.amazon.com/SIM-NAT-Battery-Connector-Splitter/dp/B074QK5M7P/ref=pd_sbs_200_52?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074QK5M7P&pd_rd_r=f8128a97-cdeb-4b56-942a-e9e17a43672d&pd_rd_w=LSpZv&pd_rd_wg=ZpYom&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=XT85M4TECH9CM10XG75V&psc=1&refRID=XT85M4TECH9CM10XG75V

I really hope this helps and I hope you enjoy your car.

Yeah Nitro is awesome but it's just hard to justify.. Just depends on application. After my Tekno, I am definitely getting a nitro something.

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Check this out, https://www.amazon.com/Team-Redcat-TR-MT10E-Control-Monster-x/dp/B01JOGQICY

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Not as fast as some of the Arrmas but a very good truck nonetheless, and is cheap enough that you have some upgrade money.

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Pretty much you got something like that Redcat, an Arrma, or save up and get a Tekno.

The voltage you want wouldn’t be additive. You would get one battery for the application, then a BEC to get the 5v for the arduino. (The voltage requirement isn’t additive, current is what is additive. Voltage is distributed in parallel.)

The circuit should only draw as much current as the motors allow / chip decides to let through. I would recommend either a 3S Life Battery which produces 9.9v or a 2S Lipo battery (7.4v though). If you are going to be drawing more than a few amps, I recommend the LIPO battery, it has larger wires.

The higher the MAH rating the longer it will last on a charge.

Also, if you are going for LiFe/LiPo get a charger for it. They require special charges. I personally use the Duratrax LI-24 charger. with this balance board to monitor voltage, but something like this is probably better.

As for a BEC, somethis like this should would work. An arduino shouldn’t pull too much amperage, but you should always check your specs to make sure you get a BEC with adequate operating amps.

Edit: I also recommend this servo extension pack especially if you get the LiFe battery, since it will typically have this style connector. I have used those cables several times for custom harnesses, whether it’s making a Y-harness or modifying a battery compartment to accept the LuFe battery.

Follow the directions and you'll be fine. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver to build it, and that's about it. If your Phillips screwdriver is one of those types with "bits", you'll need a regular one as there is a hole that those other ones won't fit in. Everything else should be included, including grease. You might want some threadlock for the metal to metal fastenings: https://www.amazon.com/DuraTrax-Pit-Tech-Threadlocker-2/dp/B0015H6DVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492756164&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+thread+lock

You will need a radio, receiver, servo for steering, and battery and charger. You picked a non-performance model here, so you won't need high-end stuff. You could probably get by with a cheap Futaba servo: https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-FUTM0031-S3003-Standard-Servo/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492756615&sr=1-4&keywords=Servo

For radio and receiver I'm hoping someone else can help. I have a Spektrum radio and receiver that I like a lot, but there are cheaper ones - I see Flysky(?) thrown about here often.

For a battery, I recommend a 2S lipo pack such as this. A 5000mah pack will give you around 20 minutes of hard run time and maybe more. Pay attention to how the wires exit the pack! Wires that poke out the end won't work. Neither will the kind that exit the top. You want a pack with wires that come out the corner.

Shop around on the charger. Get a lipo balance charger. Maybe someone can recommend a good one for you as I've got a fairly expensive dual charger. Help me out guys!

I got my 5 year old an Arrma Granite Voltage:https://www.amazon.com/GRANITE-VOLTAGE-Electric-Control-Monster/dp/B07846P1Z7/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=arrma+voltage&qid=1554690319&s=gateway&sr=8-1

price keeps going up but you should be able to get it for $99, it's big but it's also lightweight which means less stress on jumps, batteries are super easy to understand. Finally it's not a crazy unique design so you can upgrade the motor with him $10-20 bucks. You can put a 2s lipo in as right away well, super easy I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DV7TYNT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I could not get them to fit with the battery carrier (too long and I thought I was going to break the wires off.) but I just put them in the battery case with some foam from the packing material of a xbox.

We built a big ramp 2 feet tall and he drives it off sideways landing on one week and not break.

The only thing that was damaged was a shock because he caught it on a blackberry vine and it pulled the shock apart, got it fixed but I will keep an eye out for some cheap basher shocks when I find something good

Have fun

Hey, another Canadian made basically the same question once before, here's my guide to a quick start on R/C drifting with a Tamiya TT-02D:

For 400 you can get a kit like a Tamiya TT-02D and all you need to get driving with it. The advantage of the TT-02 chassis is it has cheap and widely available spare parts, and it comes not only as a drifting chassis. The -D spec has motor cooling and slippery drifting tires included, but if you mount ordinary sticky rubber tires on it, it will work just fine as a racer too (I do that myself).

What you'll need:

-Basic tools to assemble the kit such as phillips head screwdrivers, allen keys etc.

-https://www.amazon.ca/58605-Nismo-Z-Tune-TT02D-Drift/dp/B00T2DKL5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1513262988&sr=1-2&keywords=tt02d+kit Car kit - there are other bodies available in the starter kit, but make sure you get a kit that actually includes a body!

-https://www.amazon.com/FLYSKY-Transmitter-FS-GT3B-2-4Ghz-Receiver/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511338151&sr=8-1&keywords=flysky+gt3b transmitter and receiver set

Battery pack and charger set: https://www.amazon.com/3800mAh-rechargeable-battery-Tamiya-Charger/dp/B01HDKBRKG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1511341916&sr=8-14&keywords=7.2+nimh+battery+and+charger

-metal gear servo for the steering: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1513263076&sr=8-7&keywords=metal+gear+servo

-Some lexan paint for the body in your colour of choice - I recommend Tamiya PS-colour

The total for all this is about 335 CAD if I'm not mistaken - and it is just about the cheapest option, I really spent a lot of time working out how to try out R/C drifting cheaply when I bought mine. You can get additional wheel sets and such from China on ebay very cheaply.

EDIT: The Amazon links are a reference just to show it can be done - you should probably take a look at some R/C dealers instead since they'll have all the things you might need later on and you'll know they can deliver :) Here in Europe I shop in 4 different countries to get the things I actually want...

The steering linkages limit front suspension travel. You want to taper the holes on both end to stop them limiting front suspension travel. When the suspension hits those limits it can make the car do unpredictable things.


Pick up some 1,000,000 weight diff oil. Put that in the front, use the kit grease in the rear diff. Or if you're willing to throw a few more dollars at it, use 200k out back. When you aren't diffing out, life is much better. Also, if you wanna slide around like your favorite rally star put the million weight out back, and the 200k out front. :-) (it's 5 minutes to make the swap..)


Pick up a "decent" steering servo. I like the Turnigy D99 when i'm feeling cheap.


I run the TT01e in Euro truck... so I've got some time on mine. :-)


Buy bearings! https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TT-01-Chassis-Sealed-Bearing/dp/B00KKPG086/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543398520&sr=8-2&keywords=tt01+bearings


And have fun! (Bug me if you need more advice)


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1st Cheapest - Probably this: https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-Everest-16-Electric-Crawler/dp/B00E5KY77S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1536338553&sr=8-10&keywords=redcat+crawler but it is a smaller crawler heads up (and it's marked down)

2nd Cheapest - Probably this: https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-Everest-10-Waterproof-Electronics/dp/B00O9MTP06/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536338553&sr=8-4&keywords=redcat+crawler

Cheapest Scale - Probably this: https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-Everest-SPORT-Crawler/dp/B077PYN8D9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536338553&sr=8-6&keywords=redcat+crawler

But there are others as well - But honestly, any of those are good starter rigs so if you want scale looks kinda "real" get number 3, if u want to just crawl over rocks and have that sorta, monster truck look, get the 2nd one, if you want monster truck on a budget get the 1st one.

(They come with shitty servos btw, so expect to replace that, might as well order a spare when you buy the rig and also worth getting a couple spare batteries and a better charger but that's not required per se - ALSO -I don't think Redcat includes batteries for the Transmitter, so get some AA's they usually take 8 but will last many trips out)

Yes, you need a different esc for brushless motors. You can pick up a pretty affordable combo system from Hobbywing like this one from Amazon, that will have a much longer life while giving you way better performance.

https://www.amazon.com/Hobbywing-38010203-3652SL-3300KV-Brushless/dp/B076DTQPWK/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=hobbywing+brushless&qid=1555120082&s=gateway&sr=8-8

That looks like a "rear hub carrier" (that term should help you in searching for aftermarket metal upgrade replacements). I don't have one of those but I did see these ones when searching just to make sure something useful would come up: https://www.amazon.com/Bettal-Rear-Wltoys-A949-Metal/dp/B071VYFFY3. I dunno if those are good hub carriers or not but it will give you an idea of what you are looking for.

Hey man here is the setup I’m running on my Tamiya TT-02 which is a great setup for cars like this. Here is the esc I recommend it’s good for brushed motors or brushless motors and its can use a sensor setup or just the regular 3 wire. https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-45057-ESC-TBLE-02s-brushless/dp/B00BBQDVO4/ref=asc_df_B00BBQDVO4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241969730126&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11612280333244796961&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028541&hvtargid=pla-470020405324&psc=1

Here’s a motor https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-RS540-Sport-Tuned-Motor/dp/B00061HB0K/ref=pd_aw_lpo_21_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1Y3MMPM5S936MM60GFQA

Here is a radio and receiver https://www.horizonhobby.com/SPMSTX200?KPID=SPMSTX200&CAWELAID=320011980001424751&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37462622311&CATCI=aud-428820958228:pla-517858850546&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwODlBRDuARIsAMy_28WOzcEM0if6evgKdlJqw2XGG8BopV3-Un7W0XCDEYQaCpnO2TzqgrwaAuH1EALw_wcB

Here is a battery https://www.horizonhobby.com/speedpack-3300mah-nimh-6-cell-flat-dyn1070

Here is a charger https://www.hobbytown.com/radient-primal-led-multichemistry-battery-charger-us-3s-4a-50w-rdna0041/p501578

And here is a servo https://www.amainhobbies.com/futaba-servo-standard-fut01102164-1/p608310?gclid=CjwKCAjwwZrmBRA7EiwA4iMzBC4S83jUNQKwpKH8wacu1IaYf0Uhz8KpIiDKi1Fyn4bXcYDPUd-vxxoCT2AQAvD_BwE

Pretty easy mod as well, that's a hobbywing esc $20 on amazon, any old receiver/transmitter combo, and you're lipo ready! ESC-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8DZDNS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Traxxas is actually a pretty good brand. You could get something like THIS and maybe a new lipo battery and he would be good to go. Unless you are set on getting a kit but you would still need a good motor/esc combo.

I use an eneloop rechargeable set and I hardly ever have to charge them. Many days of practice and racing, then it can sit a month and still have plenty more left. So pretty good.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HuXnDb09B6DVY

I am not directly powering the motors off arduino so I doubt if it will draw a lot of current. So BEC is like a battery too? Didn't hear of it before.

One motor drew about 350mA so if I run two in parallel, they woud probably draw about 800 or so. I think I am better off with over 1 amperage battery, like you suggested. Surprisingly, it doesn't have a price tag to it. :/

It's 1500 mAh - that means it could supply 1.5A for an hour, right? Is it rechargeable?

If you wanna crawl on a budget, Redcat might be for you.

I have the 1/16 version of the Everest and it’s pretty fun. Albeit very slow.

Here’s the 1/10:

Redcat Racing Everest-10 Electric Rock Crawler with Waterproof Electronics, 2.4Ghz Radio Control (1/10 Scale), Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O9MTP06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EGn8BbP5ZAFZ1

They also make the Gen 7, which is a scale truck.

Redcat Racing Everest Gen7 Pro 1/10 4WD RTR Scale Rock Crawler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784CGKJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hIn8BbQRCAHNT

Two use this little thing, one uses a hobbywing 1/18 that I had in a drawer.