Best products from r/reloading

We found 258 comments on r/reloading discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 571 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

TLDR: the best products according to r/reloading

Top comments mentioning products on r/reloading:

u/InformationHorder · 2 pointsr/reloading

There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

  1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.

    In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.

  2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.

  3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.

    If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.

    Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.

    Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.

    We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.
u/Oberoni · 5 pointsr/reloading

Cleaning Supplies/General Maintenance

I'm not going to put links to these, but it is useful to have some cleaning supplies for your press. Rubbing alcohol, paper towels, q-tips, dental picks, etc are nice to have around.

Grease is good to have for your press and some oil is good to put on your dies if you'll be storing them for a long period.


Honestly, I’m a little hesitant to write this part. Presses are the single most costly part of a beginner reloading set up and can change the what else you buy. There is a lot to take into account when buying a press and if you’re a new reloader you can’t fully grasp all of those things yet. You don’t know how you prefer to reload or what might fit you best and choosing the wrong press can make you hate reloading while another press might make you a reloading fiend. Remember, you can generally sell your press for a good chunk of what you paid as long as it is in good shape. Don’t let it rust and you’re fairly safe.

>Single Stage Presses:

Single stage presses are the most basic type of press there is, it holds one die and one shell at a time. This means you’ll end up ‘batch processing’ or doing the same step to say 50 cases at a time before switching dies and running those cases through the next step. For example: Deprime/Resize all 50 cases, switch dies and prime all 50, switch dies and bell all 50, etc. Single stage presses are the slowest way to reload, requiring you to handle the cases multiple times and potentially dial in your die setting every batch. They are also the most stable presses, in that there is very little mechanical variation. This makes them wonderful for precision rifle loading.
Many people recommend you start on a single stage press. Handling your brass many times and getting to see the difference in 50 or 100 cases all at once is a great way to learn what works or not and gives you many chances to spot defects.
Most often I hear people worry about “out growing” their single stage press. Remember, you can sell it or use it as a dedicated depriming station. Many reloaders keep their single stage presses just for rifle loads. Keep in mind that presses that connect on both sides of the case will be stronger than C shaped presses. Compare the Lee and Hornady presses below.

Lee Hand Press $29.09

Lee Press $37.84

Hornady LnL Classic $134.89

>Turret Press:

The turret part of the press is above the brass and holds multiple dies in stations. You place a piece of brass and run it through the first station, then rotate the turret and run it through the next station. You continue this until you have a completed round, then start over with the next piece of brass. This is much faster than a single stage and allows you to do multiple reloading sessions without having to reset all your dies. Because there are more moving parts there is the potential for more variation from round to round. You can still make very accurate ammo on a turret press though, you’re average shooter will never be able to tell the difference between ammo made on a turret or a single stage.
You can still batch process with a turret press and I recommend it for new loaders. Again, getting a feel for reloading and what is/isn’t right is very important.

Turret presses usually have 3-5 stations, keep this in mind when buying as it will change your reloading process.

Lyman T-Mag $186.49

>Progressive Presses:

Progressive presses are cool. They hold 3-5 dies and just as many cases all in the various stages of being reloaded. More importantly, that guy over on arfcom said he can make 600 9mm rounds an hour with his progressive. Even their price tags are impressive. Since you don’t want to outgrow your press you might as well jump in with both feet and get a 5 stage progressive right away. Right?

Well, I’d say that depends. Remember way back up at the top when I asked you those questions? Here is where they really come into play. Progressive presses have a lot of things going on all at once. For instance this is my reloading procedure on my Hornady LnL AP press when loading 9mm. On every raise of the ram I listen for the primer popping out, check a case for a powder charge, watch the case activated powder charge moved into the full upright position, place a bullet, and feel for that bullet seating. When I lower the ram I watch the primer tray to make sure a new primer moves into place facing the right way, feel that it seated properly into the next case, make sure the completed round makes it into the collection bin, and place a new case into the shell plate. All of that happens in a second or two. That is a ton of stuff to watch for without a lot of time to do it. You need to be familiar with what all those things feel/sound like before you can do it quickly. If you can trust yourself to go slowly at first and really really try hard to learn those things while running one case at a time through the press, you can start on a progressive. Even when you feel like you’ve done it enough, I’d hold off a while longer to make sure you really have it down before moving to full on progressive loading. You’ll also need to move your case inspection to before you start the loading process as doing it during progressive loading defeats the speed increase you get from the press.
Remember, reloading is dangerous. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. No one will make fun of you for going with a single stage or turret when starting off. You can always sell and upgrade later and by then you’ll have more knowledge about what you want in a press. If you go spend several hundred dollars on a progressive and then don’t like it’s workflow you’re going to have a lot more invested you’ll need to change to move to a different press. If you are in the market for a progressive you need to determine what features you want. How many stations, auto indexing or manual, how expensive add-ons are, etc. While I don’t claim to be an expert on all presses, everything I’ve heard says you’ll want a Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS progressive. Lee is more of a bargain brand and I’ve never heard good things about their progressive presses. Progressive presses are already finicky creatures to set up, no need to add to that frustration.

Hornady LnL AP $449.99

RCBS Pro2000 569.99

I don’t have a link for a Dillon 650, but they usually run about $560-570 from what I’ve seen. If someone has a link I’ll add it in.
Edit: Dillon 650 $566.95


Reloading is a wonderful hobby that you can spend hours and hours on working up a custom load for the best accuracy or making general plinking ammo. It is a serious hobby however and deserves attention and respect.

At minimum you’ll need the following equipment:

Sizing/Decap die
Expanding die(for pistol)
Seating die
Shell plate
Chamfer Tool(needed for rifle)

u/HeWhoMakesBadComment · 1 pointr/reloading

I think it depends on why you are reloading. There are a few benefits to loading your own ammo, and I think everybody that does it will agree that the biggest draw is just the hobby of it. It's fun to do and your results are palpable. First off, not all ammo is cheaper reloaded. It really depends on how much you shoot, what you shoot at, and what kind of components are you using. I personally reload for the accuracy advantage. This is mostly gained in a bolt gun, but semi-auto's can benefit too. That 30-30 too heavy for your girlfriend? You can load extra light loads for it, or extra hot ones it doesn't matter. However, unless you are hunting thick brush with that gun I would just buy factory ammo, shoot what? 40 rounds year? You can't get very good accuracy with a lever gun anyways so unless you are currently blasting through a ton of ammo it won't be a good caliber to start with.

Most AK's or SKS's suffer from week accuracy as well. These guns are best used with open sights. This caliber is what spam cans are all about. Buy a bunch of surplus and chop down a tree. But again, if you are hunting with it then by all means load your own. The small gains in accuracy translate to better payoff when the target goes from paper to fur. Also, military surplus ammo is unsuitable for hunting, you could buy hunting ammo, but loading your own will be better.

which leads us to the .300 BLK, or the 5.56. The 5.56 will be better at longer ranges, the .300's advantage is at close range against flesh. So if you hunt big game the choice is obvious. But if it's target shooting you want to up your game on the 5.56 will be the way to go.

And if you didn't already, go get the LEE reloading manual and keep it in the bathroom. Read the whole thing before buying anything else. Keep in mind that the book is a sales pitch for LEE reloading products, but it does a great job of explaining the processes. Once you have a press, you can get dies for all your calibers. I had a really good experience at my local gun shop on my first reloading investment. It was cool to have an actual human who has years of experience to talk to and pick his brain.

OK lastly, don't worry about your long term setup. Get the ball rolling and if you can score a sweet deal on something that can just get you going go for it. You may get laughed at at the range but using a lee hand press is cheap, and effective and is a fun way to slow down your shooting and focus on accuracy.

u/sirJ69 · 3 pointsr/reloading

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.

Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide

--Hornady Shell Holder
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide

--Reloading Dies
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.

What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

u/Metengineer · 1 pointr/reloading

The kit works, in that you can make quality reloads with it. There are better components but at least you can find out if you enjoy the hobby before sinking too far in. If I were you I would buy the other kit.

With the single stage I found myself working in large batches. I would size and deprime everything that I had in that caliber. Then I would tumble. Next expand the case mouth of everything I had clean. With the hand primer you can sit in a comfortable chair priming and not be at the bench the whole time. I would prime a couple of hundred cases at a time and store them until I was ready to load.

The press is good quality and will last you a long time. If you want to churn out large amounts of ammo you will be upgrading. However, a single stage press is always handy to have around.

The scale is fine. I prefer a digital but that is just me.

The powder measure is the weakest point of the Lee kit. It is stiff and leaks if you are using a fine powder. AA#5 leaked right around the barrel on mine. It did not measure 700X well at all but that was more of a powder size issue. If you are using sphereical powder like CFEpistol or Win231 it meters fine. It was the first part I upgraded. A metal powder dispenser like the hornady is more pleasurable to use and does not leak like the Lee.

The case prep stuff works but if you start loading a lot of rifle rounds you will want to get a better deburring tool quickly.

I'm not sure if this comes with the Lee manual or not. That and the powder funnel are the two parts of my kit I still have. There is a lot of Lee advertising in the manual but there is lots of load data with different powders and projectile types.

If you want to see if you enjoy reloading it is a good place to start.

u/Quantis_Ottawa · 5 pointsr/reloading

Here's my 2 cents.

  • Don't get the kinetic bullet pullet. They are messy and break easily. Look at the Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller and associated collet for your caliber. Works super well.

  • With the Lee Gauge/Holder thing for case trimming. Stick that sucker in a drill (I use a drill press). I believe you will need this piece as well to hold the gauge.

  • Drop the digital scale. The kit comes with a balance beam scale that's probably more accurate and doesn't require a warm up time. It's also not sensitive to what type of lighting you use.

  • Highly recommend the Hornady Comparator for your calipers. It makes measuring the round much more accurate. You'll probably also want the OAL Gauge down the road.

  • The Chronograph is nice but you won't need it until after you have worked up your load. Then you'll shoot a 10 shot string over it and not touch it again. It might be better to leave that for a later purchase or see if you can borrow one for a day once you're ready.

  • I have a RCBS Rock Chucker and I converted it with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bushings and it's awesome. I'm not sure if the lee can do that but it would be a nice addon.

  • Buy a powder trickler. It will keep you sane and save you time until you can buy a automated trickler. It's big $$ but ultimately worth it.

    Otherwise good luck. Your first load will be scary but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at the accuracy you can achieve. Also the self reliance part is cool too!

    EDIT: If you're looking at a tumbler get the stainless steel kind. WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY better than anything else. So good that I've switched to bring my brass to a buddy who has one instead of doing it in my media tumbler.
u/crab-bait · 2 pointsr/reloading

•Jennings JSVG-20 Compact Digital Jewelry Scale.

If you can, save for an RCBS chargemaster

•RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure

Again - get a chargemaster

•Reloading Manual is this manual relevant to reloading for M1 Garand?

Your link doesn't take me anywhere for the manual - I like Nosler and Hornady manuals. I do not like the Barnes manual. I do like the Barnes bullets which is the only reason I have the manual

•RCBS 90200 Hand Priming Tool

I prefer Lyman's hand priming too. I like Lee's better than RCBS's but the Lyman works best for me

•RCBS Fold-Up Hex Key Set do I really need this?

You will need an allen wrench set but you can get one at an auto parts store or hardware store. I like the ones that have the ball end to allow you to use at an angle

•RCBS Universal Case Loading Block

Get two

•RCBS Case Lube Kit, lube, pad & brushes

I like Hornady Unique case lube in the tub but it's all I've ever used. It doesn't take much and one tub lasts forever.

•RCBS Powder Funnel, .22-.50 Caliber

Yes - get this

•[Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool](

I don't care for this tool. Lyman makes individual tools called primer pocket uniformer (used after every firing) and flash hole cleaner (only needs to be used once)

•RCBS .30-06 Springfield SB T/C Die Set

Yup - Die set box tells you which shell holder you need - I like this

•RCBS 9203 #3 Shell Holder got this right?


•EAGems Digital Caliper, in SAE/Metric, 6 inch/150mm. Again, would like digital, opinions on accuracy?

Whatever caliper you can find at a reasonable price - digital is much quicker for me to read

•RCBS 9440 Bullet Puller without Collet

I have a cheap one from Cabelas that came with three different collets

•[RCBS 30/7.35 Bullet Puller Collet] - see above

•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler

I have a friend that bought three different ones as they all shook themselves apart - I bought a Dillon with a lifetime warranty

•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler
•Frankford Arsenal 887335 Arsenal Brass Polish. 8 Oz. - I've had good luck with fiberglass boat polish poured right in to the walnut shell media

Good luck and have fun

u/alpaca_bowl · 2 pointsr/reloading

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

u/random157294683 · 8 pointsr/reloading

Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.

So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.

Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.

Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.

Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.

Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.

RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.

RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.

What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.

Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?

What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.

There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.

That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.

u/OGIVE · 8 pointsr/reloading

Nice. I have had my 550 since 1995. Great machine.

I bought the spare parts kit, it is great to have on hand. Dillon will give you any of the pars on request, but it takes a couple days.

Ask for a couple bellcrank cubes for the powder measure. It is the one consumable part.

Bondhus drivers make working on the press much easier than standard L-shaped wrenches.

When removing the toolhead with the 1/4 driver, don't forget to loosen the 1/8 set screw on the side of the ram.

The UFO LED lighting kit is a great addition.

Keep the linkage greased and the shaft oiled.

Spilled powder and brass shavings will collect in the primer cup and dent primers. Watch for that and clean as necessary.

I put an 8-ball on mine for a larger handle. It is more comfortable. You may decide that you want a roller handle. If so, a cheap foam bicycle grip is a great addition. They come in pairs, the other one goes on your impact bullet puller (which you will need if you don't yet have it).

There are a great many aftermarket parts on ebay. Toolheads are cheaper than factory. There are powder measure knobs and micrometers. There are shellplate bearings and low-mass detent balls.

My Dillon .223 powder funnel did not want to flow stick powder (3031). I spun it in my lathe and radiused the transition. Problem solved.

u/sixcharlie · 3 pointsr/reloading

It does add up quick but it will stabilize. I'm very new to this myself and after getting little things like a kinetic bullet puller you eventually get all the things you need. By the way, I don't bother with the collets that came with it, I just use the appropriate shell plate for the cartridge.

I'm loading three cartridges now (.270 Win, .223 and .45 ACP) and now only need primers, powder and projectiles to reload. To start loading a new cartridge, I'd also need dies, shell plates (if I don't already have it in a kit), and the three Ps.

Other things on my wish list are a powered case prep station (my hands wear out when dealing with crimped primers) and I see why higher end presses have a handle bar instead of the palm ball.

Anyway, sorry to ramble there, it sure feels good to make your first hand load, and feels even better to shoot. Congrats!

u/SpareiChan · 3 pointsr/reloading

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

u/ahorribleidea · 5 pointsr/reloading

I would recommend upgrading to a nice digital scale, it will make things easier.

Maybe get a few of these if you haven't yet thought about how you're going to store your loaded ammo.

I have that same tumbler, works great. I would also suggest a separator for afterwords. Some brass polish is nice too.

I think that kit comes with a hand trimmer, but I would recommend a larger one, your hands will thank you.

I went with a Lyman kit for my starter set, and while it's a lot more expensive than yours, I've been very pleased with it.

When you start doing 223 you'll also want a case length trimmer. This one works pretty well for me.

u/OMW · 1 pointr/reloading

9 mm isn't really cost effective to reload, but it is a lot more forgiving than 7.62x54r to learn on and you can basically get started reloading for 9mm with just a $30 hand press, a set of dies, and some basic components. Maybe start simple and then move on to rifle cartridges as skills and budget grow? I learned on .44 mag and branched out from there. I think straight wall revolver cartridges are the ideal "beginner" cartridge, but you already own a 9mm so that's probably the next best thing.

Highly recommend reading this book if nothing else. It'll help you figure out what you need to get started and covers most of the basic essentials.

u/bjw9696 · 1 pointr/reloading

The thought process for reloading is that you are able to shoot more for the same price. While that may be true, I save money by limiting the number of rounds I take to the range so I can always have a supply at the ready for what ever emergencies may arise. If you have the mindset of "if I have it, I am going to shoot it now", cost savings is not a reason to reload.

With that said, the list above is very thorough. There are a couple of things you can look at and first, is the bench. This is my bench. I used the 2X4 Basics for my bench and love it. If you live in a wet environment it helps by having the plastic on the floor and not wood. This also makes it easier to clean around your bench. Secondly, if you are planning to shoot a lot at one time and don't want to space your cleaning out, you might want to look at a larger tumbler (My opinion! I don't have anything against my purchase of the HF tumbler except its capacity). If you and your friends are mechanically inclined, you can build one.

Lastly, you wanted to know why you should be reloading. This is tough to answer because it is different for everyone. I reload for these reasons (not in any particular order):

  • 1- Cost
  • 2- Ammo that is tuned to my firearms
  • 3- Cleaner firearms after a trip to the range (compared to factory ammo)
  • 4- Quality control
  • 5- Knowledge - Especially in the environment we are currently in. Trying to figure out how to make a recipe work for you when you can't find your go to powder or bullets.
  • 6- Entertainment - I enjoy it. I can tune out many of life's issues because I am focused on the process. Plus, if you have friends or family that can be involved in the process, it may spur them to start loading as well. The network of friends and family is invaluable.

    Everyone has their own reason to reload. They may not 100% agree with mine, but that's what makes it a community.

    Also, don't forget to use the 20% off coupons at harbor freight. I bought my digital calipers there for $12. They also have an ultrasonic cleaner that works well.
u/DBDude · 1 pointr/reloading

For calipers I'm not sure about going with gun brand name since the price tends to go up just because gunz. This thing is probably just as good as your Frankford, but much less money. It's $17 and pretty much the same thing as the Hornady that goes for $27. Just look for general calipers that have the best reviews and you're bound to get a better deal than that one. Definitely look to see if they maintain zero for a long time, since you don't want it to be off several thousandths by the time you've measured your COL on your 50th bullet of 100.

u/red__panda · 3 pointsr/reloading
  1. higher weight bullets will give a slight better performance for wind but not worth it for plinking ammo.

  2. I dont know, i just use enough powder that cycles the system successfully.

  3. YES I use a lee hand stimmer with a cutter and stud in a drill.

  4. for 223 it do not think the price of brass is worth spending all the time to anneal.

u/WesbroBaptstBarNGril · 33 pointsr/reloading

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)

7.62x54r Reloading Dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)

Case Tumbling Media

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)

u/8492_berkut · 1 pointr/reloading

Definitely get yourself a set of calipers. Even low-cost units can do you quite a bit of good as long as you don't expect too much out of them. Something like these can get you where you need to go.

With bipods, there's definitely some technique to be learned with them. You should remember to load the bipod while shooting. This article should help you understand. Also, cruise around on that site as it has an absolute wealth of information on it.

It sounds as wind didn't have much of an effect, so that's good. Keep it in mind, though, to shoot in a similar condition. If the wind is blowing when you start shooting, try not to shoot during a lull in the wind, and vice-versa.

Regarding your sizing die, try to adjust it where you have a good amount of contact. You should feel it hit the shellholder when you're working through the upstroke. It's hard to explain, kinda like when you know when a bolt is snug enough via the good old German spec - gudentite. ;)

u/Kuric1 · 2 pointsr/reloading

You may want to look into a turret style as it'll make things easier and faster. Like the Redding T7

Also you may want to get a Frankford Arsenal digital scale it's 1/3 the price and has better reviews.

I'd go with the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler it's easier, holds more and the brass is cleaner. Also no dust.

Also get the Lyman kinetic bullet puller it's got a nice soft handle the collet puller is nice if you have a lot of them to do.

And don't forget a case gauge for each caliber

u/HumidNut · 1 pointr/reloading

I like the Lyman manual for the sheer number of bullet styles and, in general quality of information. That's what I typically suggest a "new" reloader. Other than that, I suggest the manual for the bullet mfg that you see yourself shooting a bunch of. If you shoot speer, get the speer, hornady, get the hornady, etc.

As for a digital scale, they go from super cheap to sky's the limit. I got a Gempro250 some three years ago, prior to that, used a PACT. Both are good, but that damn Gempro is $50 more on Amazon than when I got mine (I paid $143 on April 23, 2015, hey forgot to have a birthday for it...). Brownells has the Gempro250 for $130ish, but with the code MDX that knocks $10 off the scale and free shipping to boot. The calibers you list don't seem to strike me as the precision type, so a $130 scale might be a bit excessive.

I've heard decent things about the Frankfort Arsenal Scale, seen a bunch of people use them, but I cannot personally vouch for the product. I have used a bunch of the Caldwell/Frankfort Arsenal/Battenfield products and have found all of them of good quality and value.

u/HeadspaceA10 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Ordinarily I wouldn't recommend a progressive as a first kit, since there's quite a bit of reloading that I prefer to do on a single stage: Fine-tuning rifle loads for accuracy being one of them. Starting out on a single stage gives you the opportunity to see in detail what each die is actually doing and how to adjust them. But I'm sure you can still learn on a LnL AP. I use a Dillon, but in the end it's the same general idea.

This is what I always recommend to people who start out reloading:

  1. Get this book and read it cover to cover.
  2. Interested in reloading for semiautomatic rifles? Understand that you will need to be extra careful about what kind of primers you buy, and about the headspace of your cartridges. Read On Reloading for Gas Guns. Still interested? Buy the RCBS precision mic or similar type of cartridge headspace gauge, a wilson gauge, and start slowly and deliberately. Most of what I reload is for semiautomatic rifle.
  3. Buy a reloading manual. If you ended up getting one with your press, buy another reloading manual from a different manufacturer. Reloading is an "engineering and science" activity. You don't want to trust data from just one source. You want different, corroborating sets of data that came out of different testing facilities.

    If you take the metallic reloading class, a lot of that stuff will be covered. But if you learn how to reload in the benchrest environment and then start reloading for some kind of autoloading rifle like an AR15, G3, M1A/M14, M1 etc then you are playing with fire unless you approach it from a different angle.

u/blorgensplor · 2 pointsr/reloading

I used this bench bracket kit from amazon. It's kind of pricey for what it is but the brackets are actually pretty nice. You could recreate them by just using steel brackets from lowes but you'd probably still end up paying a decent amount for them. All you need is the lumber to finish it up.

As for the presses, I'd probably sell all but one. Considering it's single stage you'll have to change out the dies for each step anyway so it won't be anymore trouble to change calibers.

For the paint cans, you don't need them if you're just wanting to put them there for weight. It'll cover enough area to where it'll be stable without it.

u/TacoRave171 · 5 pointsr/reloading

I use one of the Frankford Platinum Series (marketing wank) trimmer/case prep centers almost exclusively.

I have a WFT and its pretty much on permanent loan to a friend that just reloads 100 or so here and there. Pushing a case up into the trimmer and shavings collecting in the housing made it a no go for me for long sessions. If you're not doing a ton of trimming, this should work fine.

I have used the Lee precision Cutter and Lock Stud and don't think this is useful for anyone for more than about a dozen cases at a time, though it does give consistent results.

I have an RCBS Trim pro and I'm sure if it was bolted down to a dedicated spot on a bench it will work just fine, but I don't have that kind of room. Or a bench.

The Frankford Trimmer does a few things I really like. It adjusts with the collets and shoulder guides for a very repeatable cut in just about any caliber imaginable, but most importantly, its comfortable for long sessions. It also busts your $150 requirement, but not by too much.

I place it standing upright in a plastic tub (to catch errant shavings) and use Gloves like these when trimming. I trim relatively clean brass, let the rubber on the gloves grip tight against the case head, and just hold my hand, using gravity and weight, on the case head until I feel the cutter stop cutting. Done. Use the deburr and chamfer tool running off the same drive train and it goes into a bin. I actually worry more about overheating the motor than I worry about being uncomfortable over long sessions. I've used it for thousands of 5.56 and .308, often in increments of a few hundred at a time.

u/rubbinisracin · 1 pointr/reloading ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

  • A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.

    This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
u/DragonCenturion · 1 pointr/reloading

I had the Mr. BulletFeeder for about 2 weeks now. It works really well. Easy set up if you follow the instructions on the website; it doesn't come with any directions. And following the directions, you have to expand the neck before seating. The Lee Universal Flaring Die works great for that.

u/oshaCaller · 3 pointsr/reloading

If you aren't doing much volume the lee trimmer is the best budget minded one you can get.

8 bucks and then each caliber is 8 bucks or less

you don't need to trim 9mm

I've had to trim .357 because I had a bunch of different range pick up and they varied greatly, wouldn't seat on the cannelure right.

I reload for my ar15's, so buying the WFT for .223 was a lot easier than all the blisters the lee trimmer would cause.

They also have this thing, it would be a lot more comfortable.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/reloading

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This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/cosmos7 · 1 pointr/reloading

That's cool and all, but for the same money you could buy a Lee Hand Press and a universal decapping die, and have a more useful tool.

u/buckyboo22 · 1 pointr/reloading

I'm in the process of wrapping up my new reloading bench. I'm using this kit from Amazon. If you flip through the user-submitted photos you can see a few people who are reloading with it, as well as all sorts of different ideas for configurations.

Given my space constraints I made mine 6x2'. Conveniently that means one 4x8' sheet of plywood gave me enough for two shelves plus two smaller middle shelves. It took me about an hour to cut the wood and put together the workbench. I had Home Depot cut the plywood for me but cut all the 2x4s myself. Total cost for the kit, all the wood, pegboard, some matte poly, and a paint brush is right around $200.

My upper shelves aren't done yet but will be 4' wide to support a nice big piece of white pegboard. I've ordered an LED shop light for lighting.

Even though I just have the lower part done it's awesome. Way way way sturdier than the crappy-ass "workbench" I had from Harbor Freight before.

I'll post pictures once the bench is done and the 550B is mounted to it, likely Saturday.

u/jafakin · 3 pointsr/reloading

I'm not too sure exactly, what you mean by too high. Most bench mounted presses are going to have some vertical dimension, like the Lee Classic Turret press. If you really wanted to save space and height was a non-starter, you could also get this:


Basically, it acts as a single stage press, but it is very portable, and can do anything you have die for.

Personally, I use the hand press to deprime and resize. I like really clean primer pockets. Then I'll use my Turret press to load power, seat the projectile and the add a crimp.

u/A_Plinkers_Damn · 1 pointr/reloading

For what it's worth, my Lee 50th Anniversary kit has been fantastic for me. I will admit that I almost instantly swapped out the included measure for the Pro Auto Disk and the beam scale for an electronic. I also invested in a universal decapper.

How are you planning on case cleaning? Ultrasonic, vibratory, wet tumbling (like the cool kids do)...?

u/50calPeephole · 2 pointsr/reloading

I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:

  1. Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit: $120 shipped
  2. Electronic scale $30
  3. Reloading trays (2) $5 ea.
  4. Case de-burrer thingy $25
  5. Misc Case length trimming widgets $10
  6. Reloading Manual: I found mine free online in .pdf form, but take your pick.
  7. Bullet puller $12

    Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.
u/bbartokk · 1 pointr/reloading

Unless you have a really good kitchen scale I wouldnt go with it. I've had good luck with this Frankford Arsenal scale.

u/TubesBestNoob · 1 pointr/reloading

I own one and it's great. I strongly advise you to reload only one bullet at a time for at least a good 500 rounds before you make use of the progressive reloading capability of the press. Normally I would tell people to go with a single stage first, but I think choosing to reload only one round at a time in a progressive is a safe enough practice.

For rifle rounds, I never use the LNL and prefer single stage since the shell holder disk is only going to get in the way if you are resizing / removing the shell / wiping off case lube / trimming / chamferring / deburring / knocking the brass filings out of the case / putting it back in the shell holder for priming / powdering / bullet loading.

Finally, if you haven't already read this book, go read it before reloading anything.

u/looking4ammodeals · 1 pointr/reloading

Here is another alternative to your trimming station base for drill length gauge so these two two items work together and allow you to trim brass using your drill. I use it for 223 and once you get the hang of it you can knock out cases pretty quick. The only hard part is that the length is not adjustable, so you’re stuck with what ever Lee thinks is the correct trim to length. Still one of my best cheap, time saving purchases though

u/Seth0351 · 2 pointsr/reloading

What I ended up doing is resizing a bunch of 223 before I chopped them, I used the 300 resizer and took out the primer punch, worked pretty good. This trimmer may be a good idea, I've been looking at getting it for myself, you can read the reviews and decide if its for you. And heres a jig if you dont want to make one.

For powder/bullets, I use AA1680 and Palmetto Projectiles 208gn for Subsonics. Dont use them for Supers. Also, if you're running a progressive and loading lead coated projectiles, you'll need an expander die of some sort to prevent the brass from cutting up the lead projectiles.

Also, sub/xpost to /r/300BLK

u/vey323 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Me and my dad started with this Lee kit, but ended up replacing the stock scale for a digital one. And of course whatever dies you need. We do pistol mainly, but will eventually do .30-06 and .223 rounds.

You'll also want to get a good set of calipers, and a tumbler to clean brass.

u/ProgrammaticProgram · 2 pointsr/reloading

The kit would not have a tumbler, it would have a press (a thing w/ a lever that raises the shell up and down against the dies, is bolted to a table/workbench). The dies include a deprimer usually. You need a sturdy bench/table that you can mount a press on btw.
You could probably buy $400 of the expensive/good stuff, and let him round out the cheaper stuff.

Here’s a list of important stuff:
This press is great: Lee Precision Classic Turret Press (Red)

The 4 hole thing is interchangeable. So u can swap out different calibers quickly w/our adjusting the dies again.

Lyman Gen6 Digital Powder Measure

I learned a digital powder scale is what you want, this thing increases productivity a lot.

Could recommend a few more items

u/SparklesTheRhino · 1 pointr/reloading

My only concern with that Lyman press is the amount of room (or lack thereof). When loading rifle cartridges it seems like it might get a little tight and hard to work with. I've also heard that Lee has 2 different models of turret press and one of them is garbage. But I've heard this one is actually pretty decent.

It has the auto indexing feature and is less than $100 and plenty of room to work's pretty tempting. Or it it really that bad?

Im trying to keep everything below $500 to start with. Can you recommend some good dyes for 223/308?

u/bdsmchs · 1 pointr/reloading

Lyman case prep multi-tool:

Lets you chamfer and debur using a drill or powered screwdriver. It comes with adapters that are threaded 8-32 so you can put ANY cleaning rod attachment in a drill, or other tools like primer pocket uniformers, etc.

Best $20 I never spent (Was a gift. Would buy again though).

u/Hartf1jm · 1 pointr/reloading

As /u/IMR800X stated, I'd get away from the spring loaded dies and get a single stage bench mounted press. Buy once, cry once. Any decent single stage press will last you decades of use. So with that being said I'd recommend either the Lee 50th anniversary or Hornady Single Stage kits. Both come with a lot of nice extras that you have on your wish list. The Lee press is about $100 cheaper and the press is solid and reliable, but I like the Hornady bushing system better for quick die changes. The Hornady kit does come with the reloading manual, a digital scale, and a bit of case lube which is a nice upgrade over the Lee. Either way you will still need to buy calipers, a bullet puller, and a set of dies.

u/ExSim · 1 pointr/reloading

I started out using a plastic RCBS dial caliper, but the teeth in the dial gearing started skipping so I had to find a new one. I went with this one from Amazon. I was skeptical, given the low, low price, but it was reviewed pretty well and I've been using now for several months and find it's working great.

u/Damn_The_Torpedoes · 1 pointr/reloading

Lyman 49th edition is great

Nosler 7 is good too

I prefer the Lyman one; it has more data for each cartridge. The nosler manual doesn't have a lot of pistol cartridges listed. Lyman also has data for cast bullets for virtually every cartridge.

u/CorporateNINJA · 0 pointsr/reloading

while i don't have a 300blk (yet) i have been doing my research and have decided to go with 556 brass when it comes to reloading for it. if this is the route your gonna go, you're probably gonna want a swaging die, 300blk jig and sizing die set. you might also pick up a case gauge and OAL length dummy brass. all this so you can resize 556 for 300blk. i'm looking here for 556 brass, but i'm open to suggestions for a better deal elsewhere. 1000 brass for $80. $0.08/ea

my reasoning is this. Rumor has it that 556 has thicker brass, which leads to a slightly smaller internal capacity. if you're loading subsonic rounds, you'll most likely be using Trail Boss as your powder. because the loads for subsonic are quite small, you want the largest grain powder you can find as it will fill the case and lead to a more even burn. so a smaller case capacity would further improve this.


you could also just buy bulk 300blk brass. 1000 brass for $130. $0.13/ea

u/pedee · 2 pointsr/reloading

I just started to and you need to chamfer and deburring tool.

This one is the best IMO

If you are reloading 556 brass with a crimp around the primer you may also want this tool that also fits into the above layman tool.

You can get the crimp off with a razor or the first tool but its easy to put this in the drill chuck and crank them out by the numbers.

u/I922sParkCir · 2 pointsr/reloading

>You need a powder measure.

The Auto Disk Powder Measure is included with Lee 4 Hole Turret Press Deluxe Kit.

>You don't need a case tumbler. Just clean the primer pockets then wash and dry cases. This will save you money, time, messy clean-up and lower your blood's lead levels!

From researching, I would prefer to clean my brass. If anything it will give me an extra step to look for signs of wear.

>Also, since you initially omitted so many items, I think you should first buy only the Lee Modern Reloading book, sit down and read the relevant portions

What items did I omit? The only things I've added to my list are the Lee Auto-Disk Adjustable Powder Charge Bar, and a better scale, and those things aren't needed, just helpful.

>You seem to be rushing this.

What makes you think that? I'm currently reading The ABCs Of Reloading and will have it finished before I start.

u/sammysausage · 1 pointr/reloading

I have a Frankford Arsenal one that I'm pretty happy with.

u/limited_vocabulary · 3 pointsr/reloading

The ABCs of Reloading is great. I happen to like the Lee manual and use it in conjunction with manufacturer websites when I am developing loads.

u/MNBigDog · 2 pointsr/reloading

Check out

If you have Amazon Prime this will be the cheapest new press

I highly suggest that if you go with the Lee, get the Classic Cast Turret, not their "Lee Precision Turret". The classic cast is built far superior. I own one of every type presses Lee makes, except the 50 BMG. I had the 50 BMG, but chose to go to the Hornady, because it had more leverage for resizing and better Die's for making competition loads.

I use my Lee presses for the other 25 different calibers I reload and compete with.

u/OrwellHeinleinM · 3 pointsr/reloading

What is the best manual to get started with? I'm planning to reload .308 and was about to buy this kit from either amazon or another dealer. Is this a good place to start? (I live in an apartment and am quite pressed for space)

u/19Kilo · 1 pointr/reloading

I bought this to make a bench:

It's handy in that you can make it fit any size since it's really just the attachment points for the wood. You can also take it apart and expand it if you get more room.

u/SamsquamtchHunter · 2 pointsr/reloading

Well then heres a great place to start on your own - ABC's of Reloading

u/tausciam · 1 pointr/reloading

I started out with a single stage press about a month ago and my first round was 300 blackout. As a matter of fact, that's the only thing I'm reloading right now. I've made 220 rounds so far.

I did it on an RCBS single stage, but it's 45 years old and was given to me by my Dad. If I had to start from scratch as a beginner, I'd get this kit and be happy

u/nootay · 1 pointr/reloading

i would suggest a digital scale. I use one of these scales and occasionally dump it on my weight based scale like the one in the supreme kit to make sure its accurate. i do calibrate before each use.

u/MrBrian22 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I always recommend getting analog calipers instead of the digital ones. That way you don't have to worry about batteries dying on you, and in my experience, the analog ones give much more consistent readings.

I would also suggest that you skip the Hornady case trimmer, and go ahead and upgrade to something like the Frankford Arsenal Prep center.
Yes, it's $100 more, but after doing about 50 cases by hand, you'll be ready to get an electric trimmer, and then you'll just have the $75 manual trimmer sitting there unused (unless you plan on trimming straight-walled cases) The Frankford prep center would also give you a chamfer/deburring tool, and primer pocket cleaners, and you can simply get a military crimp remover for it like this. that would fit right in the prep station (which could be a big bonus if you get into military 7.62x51 brass)
As far as dies, I like the Lee dies, and if you want "precision rifle" rounds, then go ahead and get the four die set, so you get both a full length resizer and a neck sizer die. I also like Lee dies because they include the shell holder and they have the crimping die seperate from the bullet seating die (but that's personal preference)
Lastly, I can't speak for the Hornady Neck Turning Tool, but I would suggest not getting that yet, and putting that $100 towards the prep station. I don't have experience with neck turning, but I really don't think it'll give you that much added accuracy.

u/kipy3 · 1 pointr/reloading
If you're somewhat handy this is a good route to go with. You can make it as long as you want and its pretty robust.

u/_Riddle · 0 pointsr/reloading

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use.

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

u/perrdav · 1 pointr/reloading

He probably got them on Amazon. I have the same legs on my bench. They're great - just need to buy some 2x4s and plywood and you're set.

u/gaius49 · 1 pointr/reloading

Are you sure you really want a manual one? This one has been good to 0.001" in my experience... and its not a carpel tunnel machine.

u/Etatheta · 1 pointr/reloading

I wouldnt say its the best but I use the frankford digital scale. I calibrate it before each batch but its always worked well and been accurate for me

u/cjd3 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Buy Mr. Hookhands Book ABC's of Reloading. Best book out there for anyone who reloads. Your press will come with the 9th or 10th Hornady book too.

u/Long_rifle · 2 pointsr/reloading

You can get a LEE hand press for pretty cheap. Uses the same dies, and I always have a use for it. (Like resizing brass on the job while I wait for things to break). No bench, and you can learn the fundamentals.

u/dapperpanda · 8 pointsr/reloading

> American Weigh Digital Scale, 100g [0.01g sensitivity $10.42 Qty: 1

You probably want to go with something that displays in grains, otherwise you'll need to convert all of measurements from grams/oz. I use this one and it is ok.

You're gonna mess up.

You'll probably also want some way to store / carry the rounds you've made.

I'd also recommend a case gauge. I don't remember which one I bought, lyman maybe? ABCs of reloading too, if you haven't read that yet.

u/SpiderRoll · 5 pointsr/reloading

That would be a great gift. You should get a scale that is specifically aimed at reloaders - that is, one that is set up to weigh in grains. It only needs to be precise to 0.1 grains. Anything "lab grade" is overkill for reloading.

You can choose to go with a balance beam scale like these:




There are also digital scales that are cheaper and easier to use, but less durable and lack the character of a balance beam scale:

Frankford Arsenal


u/HM_TejasRider · 1 pointr/reloading

I just thought of something else I thought I'd pass along. I went ahead and added a universal expanding die to my case prep to flare the case mouth just a hair. I'm not sure how much that has made a difference or if I'm just better at initial bullet seating but I have found that my bullet alignment seemed much better afterwards.


u/H00t1e · 1 pointr/reloading

I just got this to start loading 308.

Works like a charm and makes everything else very fast. It only works with necked cases however. But it takes standard thread sizes and is able to do any caliber out of the box no extra pilots or accessories needed.

I did however order a primer reamer and uniformer for it also

u/zod201 · 2 pointsr/reloading

you'll need a powder measure, scale, dies, shell holder, some callipers, a bullet puller, and consumables of course. Not necessary but reloading manuals and the The ABCs of reloading Personally I'd get the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that comes with most everything you need, and upgrade as you see fit.

u/justarandomshooter · 1 pointr/reloading

It can be a pain, but it doesn't have to be. If you get this little tool or something similar it can really expedite things.

I take the small primer pocket reamer, chuck it into a hand drill and proceed to ream out 50 cases in less than five minutes.

u/PeterPriesth00d · 1 pointr/reloading

> The Lee scale is despised...

Yes. I hate that thing. Frankford arsenal has a cheap digital one that works great:

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/reloading

You might want to use this URL for the ABC's of Reloading.

And this one for the Hornady book.

(You can't purchase the books from the links you posted, for some reason.)

Nice primer, though. (pun intended)

u/AlwaysDeadAlwaysLive · 6 pointsr/reloading

I learned everything via youtube and reading The ABC's of Reloading.

Iraqveteran8888 had some good videos on reloading that helped me out a lot.

u/ten24 · 3 pointsr/reloading

> The only glaring omission I see is that you need a bullet puller.

Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered this

u/dorkra · 3 pointsr/reloading

If you want the cheapest way to do it: Lyman case prep. You can put the individual tools into some sort of connecting nut and put it into a handdrill. Also includes tools for chamfer and deburring. Not the most efficient or consistent, and not fun for a large amount of brass. But cheap, and easy to use.

Removing the crimp and priming aren't really supposed to be done in the same step. I prefer to do my rifle priming off press, so I got something like this: Lee ergo. Each manufacturer has their own priming tool, just remember for the lee ones, you need to buy holders for various calibers. And no, you can't use the press case holder for the primer (cue video of me cursing before reading directions).

u/therocketlawnchair · 3 pointsr/reloading

So looking at buying my first press and noticed that amazon has the lee jeans logo on the lee press. clicking on it takes you over to the jeans. lol

u/Deeplorable_Infidel · 2 pointsr/reloading

I know this debate is an endless one but I'm going to put in my two cents for the Lee Classic Turret.

It's more flexible in it's usage than a single stage, but can also be used as a single stage.

u/The_MadChemist · 8 pointsr/reloading

Grab yourself a copy of the ABC's of Reloading ( and a reloading manual. I like my Lyman 50th (

Looking at two pages in Lyman shows that .308 needs large rifle primers while .223 needs small rifle primers.

I really can't recommend the ABCs book enough. The author lost his hands in an accident, so he's committed to safety, haha. Reading through that will, at the very least, let you know what you don't know.

u/lyric911 · 1 pointr/reloading

This one. Not a reloading manual in the sense of being a bunch of load data, but is an entire book just about the process. It's fairly cheap on Amazon as well.

u/TheSkoomaCat · 3 pointsr/reloading

For the record, those digital calipers aren't made by Frankford, but are re-branded. You can get the same set "made" by several different companies but cheaper, like this set.

Not that there's anything wrong with the Frankford ones. Just pointing it out in case you were interested in saving a few dollars.

u/oosickness · 4 pointsr/reloading

well that does make it difficult now doesn't it. I have one of these if you would like it just pm me your address if you feel comfortable and ill mail it out

u/thepyrodex · 4 pointsr/reloading

The handle unscrews and all the pieces fit inside including the chamfer and deburring parts

u/rm-minus-r · 2 pointsr/reloading

Chamfer the inside of the case opening and your bullets will sit in the case without any issue. You can use something like this tool. Takes just a second or two to do it.

u/BexarArms · 1 pointr/reloading

Consider using a kit like this if building a whole bench from scratch is a little too much for you.

u/Croc_Warrior · 2 pointsr/reloading

I use one of these because The individual bits will all fit on my power drill. Makes removing the crimp or bur from trimming simple and quick.

u/sewiv · 4 pointsr/reloading

$35 (nope, $31) for a hand press. $30 (nope, $42) for a die set. $15 (nope, $29) for a scale. $10 (nope, $15) for some Harbor Freight calipers. $15 (nope, $34) for a hand priming tool. $20 (nope, $26) for a reloading book. There you go, you can load pistol with that.

(Wow, stuff got expensive since I bought it.)

edit: It's been a while.

u/phareth · 2 pointsr/reloading

I would think you want a turret for each caliber you are going to reload.

I could be wrong though, I'm not familiar with this press.
You also need a scale. This is what I use:
Digital Scale

You also need some sort of media separator
Less Cheap:
Enclosed Separator
These are just examples, you should shop around for the best price.

u/Wapiti-eater · 2 pointsr/reloading

Do yourself a favor and borrow/buy a copy of this book.

Or, if you feel you're enough up to speed to start, take a visit to this site and do some shopping. See what you're willing to spend or do without.

As a starter, this setup/kit is a popular and common setup for what you're describing. Except for the 12ga stuff - that'd take a shotshell press and unless you do a LOT of that, may not be worth the expense/hassle. Up to you.

As for your question about die-setting: dunno but nothing about a "pressroom", so can't say for sure - but it could be.

edit: added 3rd link

u/Mouseater1 · 2 pointsr/reloading

If you plan on loading a few of them, you may want to check out the frankford arsenal case prep deluxe. It has a WFT style of trimmer on it along with all the other case prep things you would usually need.

u/DustyAyres · 1 pointr/reloading

The ABCs of Reloading is the book I recommend for people who are new to reloading. No load data, but a lot of info on many different aspects of the process.

u/Unknown_Pleasures · 2 pointsr/reloading

Its the RCBS Powder Trickler Combo System

It's very convenient and both the powder throw and the trickler all funnel down to the powder tray that's on my electronic scale. Although I don't use it anymore now that I got the Chargemaster 1500.

u/CMFETCU · 2 pointsr/reloading


Read this book cover to cover:

Then read it again.

Once you have done that, you should understand the basics of working up loads and what to look for in much more detail than you will get in a post from here.