(Part 2) Best products from r/reloading

We found 161 comments on r/reloading discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 571 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

Top comments mentioning products on r/reloading:

u/wanosy · 2 pointsr/reloading

Chamfer/deburr - the two you have listed fit on a case prep machine that I don't see listed. One like this, made by every manufacturer, is all that is needed https://www.midwayusa.com/product/465641/rcbs-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-60-caliber or https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

For a bench priming tool, this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool is more highly reviewed, and the one I use now. First 15 yrs I primed on the RockChucker press. Or get a hand-primer as suggested. Got extra space on your bench, get it. Wanna watch TV and prime, get a hand tool. Up to you really.

And get the shorter handle for the press https://www.midwayusa.com/product/528383/forster-co-ax-single-stage-press-short-handle , much easier to work with. I do 7mag, .270, 30-06, and haven't felt the need for the unwieldly standard longer handle yet.

This guy makes a much better set of jaws for the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BpFD7NbvL8 . Worth it? Take Forsters jaws on/off a few times. Then you'll say YUP. I'm honestly surprised Forster hasn't bought this guy out or designed their own like this.

One thing I have found with the Forster press vs O-ring presses, is that the Forster forces you to sit more in front of it, to facilitate 2 handed operation, and thus slightly farther away from the workbench. The O-ring style presses are more open to your left hand placing and picking up cases. Lefties gotta work at it with O-ring presses. I managed to angle my press slightly on my bench to minimize this realization.

As u/unrulywind mentioned, a decapping die is nice to have so you can remove the primer, clean the case, then get to work without getting any grit into your dies, my choice https://www.midwayusa.com/product/211699/hornady-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die

As for neck sizing dies, they are something you could get later if you find a need for it. I'd wait until you are more familiar with the process, and then go with a bushing bump neck die like Forster makes https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bushing-bump-neck-sizing-dies/ , or a Redding https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049293/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die . If you're going down this rabbit hole you would probably want to get a good neck turner/reamer https://www.midwayusa.com/case-neck-turners-and-reamers/br?cid=10455 . But going down this rabbit hole this early on is not necessary. Most never do. Aren't most of the bench-rest guys going with full length sizing now?

And as u/-RicFlair mentions, the comparator tools would be more useful to you earlier on than the neck sizing/reaming tools. This is the comparator body with bullet ogive inserts. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/lnl-comparator-body-w-14-inserts-prod36535.aspx . You should be able to find just a body and a .30 cal insert. And then these fit the same comparator body but measure shoulder bump https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx . Just for clarity, all this paragraph attaches to your caliper tool, so as u/-RicFlair also mentions, this is a reason to have 2 or more calipers. I have one dial caliper (never needs batterys) and one electronic which makes it easier to zero-out the comparator body + insert, so you're getting true lengths without having to perform subtraction, or re-zeroing a dial caliper.

This electronic caliper has been found to be accurate and inexpensive and the one I use https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525514664&sr=8-1&keywords=origincal . Keep extra 2032 batteries around! They give an extra battery in the case, but you don't want to be caught without. It matches up with my more expensive Brown & Sharpe dial caliper exactly, so far.

All my new cases also get prodded once with this tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/729748/lyman-flash-hole-uniformer-tool . And after every firing (or 2) with one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=primer+pocket+cleaner&userItemsPerPage=48 . Note that the steel pin wet tumblers will clean this debris out, but the tool is so cheap why not have a manual version for those once off/extra dirty times.

Case cleaning: 4 choices in approx $ low-\>high - wipe by hand cloth - dry media tumbler - sonic solution wet vibe - steel pin wet tumbler. The last one is the latest invention and the one to go to if you want/need shiny clean. https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/platinum-series-rotary-tumbler-l/1811194.uts?slotId=0 Does an amazing job. Do you want to wet tumble every time? Perhaps not, so one of these is the original standby https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/thumlers-tumbler-ultra-vibe-tumbler/705516.uts?slotId=8 . Still using the one i got since um lets see 1972ish, so wow, yeah 46 yrs ago. LOL. I won't recommend any other dry media tumbler.

Powder measure - can't go wrong with something like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/759813/redding-match-grade-3br-powder-measure-with-universal-metering-chamber . You might need a stand to go with https://www.midwayusa.com/product/552580/redding-rs-6-powder-measure-bench-stand . I see that Redding has come out with a few more powder measures since I last gandered at them, so pick what u want.

Powder Trickler - https://www.midwayusa.com/powder-tricklers/br?cid=9212 your pick, they all should be decent, but I'd pick the Frankford first, RCBS 2nd. $20 ish. The Redding is too short, don't know why they haven't realized it yet. Still good, but theres better for your money.

Powder funnel - https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+funnel&userItemsPerPage=48 . You can buy the pricey aluminum ones if you must have the best of the best, but the $5 jobbers have been doing the same job for a long time too, for the other 99.5% of us.

Scale - find an old used Lyman M5 or RCBS 505/510/1010 on ebay. Seriously. The ones that were made in good ole USofA. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, there is a guy here that will re-tune to better than original. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/scott-parker/ . Or get an elec/batt scale. People seem to like the RCBS ChargeMaster https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-ChargeMaster-Combo/741110.uts?slotId=0

Pick up another couple reloading manuals, Hornadys and Noslers. You can find bullet/charge weights online too, but say power or internet goes out, you've nothing to do, so may as well reload some. You want to pick another load to work up. What do? One manual is not enough.

Also useful to find an older volume of the same manuals at gunshows/shops in your area. I think Hornady is up to 10th ed. Find a 2nd or 3rd ed. to see how much the lawyers have caught on to our game.

I know Forster is still made in USA. I think Redding and Hornady too. But RCBS has left this shore and it shows. Thats why my money goes to the first 3. You can't go wrong swapping their versions for what I've suggested here.

When you have another wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket, and you've digested what you're doing thus far, there are other gauges/accessories/rabbit holes to fall into and spend your hard earned dough on. Hit me up, I've got more suggestions.

Gotta like spending other peoples money !!!!

u/InformationHorder · 2 pointsr/reloading

There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

  1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.

    In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.

  2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.

  3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.

    If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.

    Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.

    Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.

    We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.
u/Oberoni · 5 pointsr/reloading

Cleaning Supplies/General Maintenance

I'm not going to put links to these, but it is useful to have some cleaning supplies for your press. Rubbing alcohol, paper towels, q-tips, dental picks, etc are nice to have around.

Grease is good to have for your press and some oil is good to put on your dies if you'll be storing them for a long period.



Press



Honestly, I’m a little hesitant to write this part. Presses are the single most costly part of a beginner reloading set up and can change the what else you buy. There is a lot to take into account when buying a press and if you’re a new reloader you can’t fully grasp all of those things yet. You don’t know how you prefer to reload or what might fit you best and choosing the wrong press can make you hate reloading while another press might make you a reloading fiend. Remember, you can generally sell your press for a good chunk of what you paid as long as it is in good shape. Don’t let it rust and you’re fairly safe.


>Single Stage Presses:


Single stage presses are the most basic type of press there is, it holds one die and one shell at a time. This means you’ll end up ‘batch processing’ or doing the same step to say 50 cases at a time before switching dies and running those cases through the next step. For example: Deprime/Resize all 50 cases, switch dies and prime all 50, switch dies and bell all 50, etc. Single stage presses are the slowest way to reload, requiring you to handle the cases multiple times and potentially dial in your die setting every batch. They are also the most stable presses, in that there is very little mechanical variation. This makes them wonderful for precision rifle loading.
Many people recommend you start on a single stage press. Handling your brass many times and getting to see the difference in 50 or 100 cases all at once is a great way to learn what works or not and gives you many chances to spot defects.
Most often I hear people worry about “out growing” their single stage press. Remember, you can sell it or use it as a dedicated depriming station. Many reloaders keep their single stage presses just for rifle loads. Keep in mind that presses that connect on both sides of the case will be stronger than C shaped presses. Compare the Lee and Hornady presses below.


Lee Hand Press $29.09


Lee Press $37.84


Hornady LnL Classic $134.89


>Turret Press:


The turret part of the press is above the brass and holds multiple dies in stations. You place a piece of brass and run it through the first station, then rotate the turret and run it through the next station. You continue this until you have a completed round, then start over with the next piece of brass. This is much faster than a single stage and allows you to do multiple reloading sessions without having to reset all your dies. Because there are more moving parts there is the potential for more variation from round to round. You can still make very accurate ammo on a turret press though, you’re average shooter will never be able to tell the difference between ammo made on a turret or a single stage.
You can still batch process with a turret press and I recommend it for new loaders. Again, getting a feel for reloading and what is/isn’t right is very important.



Turret presses usually have 3-5 stations, keep this in mind when buying as it will change your reloading process.


Lyman T-Mag $186.49


>Progressive Presses:


Progressive presses are cool. They hold 3-5 dies and just as many cases all in the various stages of being reloaded. More importantly, that guy over on arfcom said he can make 600 9mm rounds an hour with his progressive. Even their price tags are impressive. Since you don’t want to outgrow your press you might as well jump in with both feet and get a 5 stage progressive right away. Right?


Well, I’d say that depends. Remember way back up at the top when I asked you those questions? Here is where they really come into play. Progressive presses have a lot of things going on all at once. For instance this is my reloading procedure on my Hornady LnL AP press when loading 9mm. On every raise of the ram I listen for the primer popping out, check a case for a powder charge, watch the case activated powder charge moved into the full upright position, place a bullet, and feel for that bullet seating. When I lower the ram I watch the primer tray to make sure a new primer moves into place facing the right way, feel that it seated properly into the next case, make sure the completed round makes it into the collection bin, and place a new case into the shell plate. All of that happens in a second or two. That is a ton of stuff to watch for without a lot of time to do it. You need to be familiar with what all those things feel/sound like before you can do it quickly. If you can trust yourself to go slowly at first and really really try hard to learn those things while running one case at a time through the press, you can start on a progressive. Even when you feel like you’ve done it enough, I’d hold off a while longer to make sure you really have it down before moving to full on progressive loading. You’ll also need to move your case inspection to before you start the loading process as doing it during progressive loading defeats the speed increase you get from the press.
Remember, reloading is dangerous. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. No one will make fun of you for going with a single stage or turret when starting off. You can always sell and upgrade later and by then you’ll have more knowledge about what you want in a press. If you go spend several hundred dollars on a progressive and then don’t like it’s workflow you’re going to have a lot more invested you’ll need to change to move to a different press. If you are in the market for a progressive you need to determine what features you want. How many stations, auto indexing or manual, how expensive add-ons are, etc. While I don’t claim to be an expert on all presses, everything I’ve heard says you’ll want a Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS progressive. Lee is more of a bargain brand and I’ve never heard good things about their progressive presses. Progressive presses are already finicky creatures to set up, no need to add to that frustration.


Hornady LnL AP $449.99



RCBS Pro2000 569.99

I don’t have a link for a Dillon 650, but they usually run about $560-570 from what I’ve seen. If someone has a link I’ll add it in.
Edit: Dillon 650 $566.95


Review


Reloading is a wonderful hobby that you can spend hours and hours on working up a custom load for the best accuracy or making general plinking ammo. It is a serious hobby however and deserves attention and respect.


At minimum you’ll need the following equipment:



Manuals
Scale
Calipers
Press
Sizing/Decap die
Expanding die(for pistol)
Seating die
Shell plate
Chamfer Tool(needed for rifle)

u/sirJ69 · 3 pointsr/reloading

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

-----
I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.


Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
--------------------------------------------------
What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$462.64
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Plate-by-Number/
$41.33
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Hornady Shell Holder
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Holder-by-Number/
$5.00
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Reloading Dies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD6PO2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$43.89
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.14
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10.60
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560230&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+gun+cleaner
$13.28
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Spray-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B0001NA29U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560743&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+case+lube
$13.44
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-50140-Camlock-Case-Trimmer/dp/B000PD6QJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561942&sr=1-7&keywords=case+trimmer
$88.99
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Edition-Handbook-Cartridge-Reloading/dp/B00A95QWGM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563579&sr=8-2&keywords=Reloading+guide
$39.80
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Case-Tumbler-110-Volt/dp/B000PD1XE4/ref=sr_1_17?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375559938&sr=1-17&keywords=media+tumbler
$83.58
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-287178-Brass-Cleaning/dp/B001GX8DS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561385&sr=1-4&keywords=tumbling+media
$20.10
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-9993-Case-Polish/dp/B002L9D8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561809&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+metal+polish
$14.17
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
--------------------------------------------------------------
What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.15
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPL80Q/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.56
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-1536-480040-Universal-Loading/dp/B000GU8WU4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375559333&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=universal+ammo+reloading+tray
$11.38
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Universal-Case-Prep-Accessory/dp/B0034LAVUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375562159&sr=1-2&keywords=case+prep+tool
$55.79
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$18.99
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1WOJ2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$27.99
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPR300/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$39.89
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D6ZLXE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$30.57
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Bushing-Pack/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563887&sr=8-1&keywords=Hornady+AP+die+bushing
$42.22
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.
---------------------------------------------------

What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ3NNK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$99.99
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XI0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$5.78
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU9VU4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$24.99
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
-----------------------------
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

u/random157294683 · 8 pointsr/reloading

Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.


So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.

Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.

Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.

Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.

Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.

RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.

RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.

What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.

Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?

What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.

There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.

That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.

u/cawpin · 2 pointsr/reloading

.223 is the first caliber I loaded on my 550 and got 1/2" groups almost immediately out of a Model 70, only slightly changed the powder charge.

Case Prep

  • I'd suggest the Dillon trimmer, but it is pricey. People rave about World's Finest Trimmer, so check that out. You will need to trim if you're going for consistent accuracy.

  • For swaging, I will say get the Dillon Super Swage. It is the fastest way to do it and is very consistent.

  • You can get a case prep center that includes a cutter for primer pockets but it is a lot of work doing many cases that way. I use the Lyman one for chamfering/deburring and primer pocket squaring if needed.

    Press

  • If you REALLY want to do this, I'd advise getting at least a Dillon 550, and preferably the 650 with case feeder. Buy once and you'll never have to again. I know you said you don't want a progressive, but you do.

  • Since you're loading pistol ammo but trying to keep cost down, the 550 might be the better choice for you. I can crank out 600 rounds/hour of .45 ACP if I have all my supplies sitting there.

  • The powder measure on Dillon presses is the most accurate of press mounted powder throws, even better than some dedicated powder measures. It is plenty accurate enough to make good groups. If you go other than that, the RCBS Chargemaster seems to be the king of the hill, but it is expensive.

    Priming

  • I've never used hand primer. The priming system on the 550 is great, with plenty of feel, which is one of the reasons people get them.

    Edit: Re-ordered and organized.

    Edit 2: Overall, I think you'll be cheaper if you get a 550, since you won't need a separate powder system or primer, and be much happier in the end.

    Edit 3: Forgot tumbling:

  • I'd suggest the Harbor Freight Dual-Drum tumbler and SS media. It is cheap, quick and gives good results.
  • Drying: Dehydrator, Extra trays, Screens to prevent brass falling through
u/GalaxyClass · 3 pointsr/reloading

I have all of those pieces except the case prep center and they are all great. I was happily reloading my rifles with this.

I also bought a Dillon 550 and I love that too. I do 9, 40, 556 and 300 with it.

Then a friend dropped about 2k of 5.56 brass in my lap. The case trimmer and "by the hand" primer pocket cleaning and deburr of the neck got old really fast.

I bought the Universal Trim station which basically is an automated case trimmer and built in case prep center. After some out of box problems (RCBS quickly sent me replacement parts). I love that too.

I will say even though I purchased [this crimp remover] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422572881) and it's the first thing I'm actually dissatisfied with. I still don't have reliable primer seating (occasional primer crushes) on the Dillon.

I moved over to this as a step in once fired brass prep, and then go ahead and clean out the primer pocket using the crimp removal thing (on the trim station) from above and things seem really solid now.

I hope that helps, stay safe and have fun.

RCBS has great customer service. I don't think you'll regret getting that kit.

u/SpareiChan · 3 pointsr/reloading

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

u/ahorribleidea · 5 pointsr/reloading

I would recommend upgrading to a nice digital scale, it will make things easier.

Maybe get a few of these if you haven't yet thought about how you're going to store your loaded ammo.

I have that same tumbler, works great. I would also suggest a separator for afterwords. Some brass polish is nice too.

I think that kit comes with a hand trimmer, but I would recommend a larger one, your hands will thank you.

I went with a Lyman kit for my starter set, and while it's a lot more expensive than yours, I've been very pleased with it.

When you start doing 223 you'll also want a case length trimmer. This one works pretty well for me.

u/DragonCenturion · 2 pointsr/reloading

Check the FAQ like the sidebar says. But I've got nothing pressing at the moment so here:

I'm answering your last question first. The Lyman manual is definitely a good place to start. And you should purchase that first and read it before you purchase anything else. It will answer most of your questions and keep you safe. It is also recommended to get other brand manuals as well, such as Lee or Hornady. Every manual is different and will give you a broader base to start from.

Press: I'm a single stage guy so I can't help with the press. You will need caliber specific dies. All brands work, Lee is the cheapest, RCBS is kinda the standard, Dillon a step above RCBS, Forster is generally regarded as the best. If you use carbide dies you don't really need to lube pistol brass. And if you do lube, its personal preference. I use a 10:1 alcohol lanolin mix that I spray on the brass inside a gallon ziplock, then shake around a bit.

Tumbler: I use the HF dual drum with a modded drum. It works fine for me as I do small batches of rifle brass. You should probably look at the FA Tumbler or something larger. It comes with media and a small packet of their detergent. Most people have great results with dish soap and a pinch of lemishine. And you really shouldn't need a primer pocket cleaner if you wet tumble.

Bullets: Those bullets should work well. And its mostly personal preference and what shoots well out of your specific firearm.

Powder: Powder is something you either buy in person or large bulk orders. The hazmat fee is a killer unless you are ordering the max weight per order, which is normally about 50 pounds. And unless you are dead set on a certain powder, most people use what they can find locally. The Field and Stream should have powder, I've never been to a Walmart that sells smokeless powder. And read your manual to know it that powder has load data for what you are loading.

Primers: Primers for the most part are personal preference, they don't affect loads until you get into long range precision rifle. And see the powder above about hazmat fees.

Calipers: Those calipers will work.

Chronograph: You really don't need a chrono for what you'll be doing, at least initially.

Have fun and stay safe. Welcome to the rabbit hole that is reloading.

u/bovinitysupreme · 2 pointsr/reloading

I feel your budget pain! I was lucky enough to get into reloading during a rare time in which I could go further in debt up to my eyeballs, but even I need to cut corners as much as I can while I concentrate on preparing for post-election shortages. At your budget level I'm going to disagree with the other commentor who recommends dial calipers; $10 digital calipers from Harbor Freight or eBay are decent and will serve you well for a few years.

Your plan fails at primer installation. Neither the hand press nor the Ultimate Rifle Die Set (good choice, IMHO) is provisioned for priming. You'd need to get a Ram Prime die or some sort of separate primer such as a hand primer (avoid the Lee hand primer because it uses proprietary shell holders).

I recently added the hand press to my collection. The hand press is nowhere near as large or heavy as its photos make it look. It's a light-duty, dinky little thing. I'm glad I have it but I wouldn't want to use it as my main press, just as an accessory. It's ok for decapping when primers aren't in too tightly, but some cases have been more difficult and I have to lay it down and repeatedly slam it (putting my fingers at risk, there's not a lot of finger clearance). I was thinking of finding appropriate pipes to use as cheaters.

IMO its best uses are light-duty decapping (using a universal decapping die or a larger caliber's sizer/decapper; NOT the sizer/decapper from your caliber's die set) and Ram Prime usage while sitting on the couch, and mobile bullet seating at the range when you have already sized/prepped the cases at home. I would not want to use it to size .308win cases, that's for sure! Some can be tough even with my Rockchucker Supreme.

For almost the same price you can get the 90045 Lee Reloader (not to be confused with the Lee Loader), a disposably-priced but (reportedly) well-built simple single stage C-press. Bolt it to a block of wood, then clamp that to the kitchen table or your desk (or the bench at the range) when you want to use it. (You'll still need either a Ram Prime or a hand prime tool.)

(Edit: I missed where you commented on your furniture clamping worry. You can clamp it without leaving a mark. Harbor Freight's cheap bar clamps have nice rubbery plastic covers, and you could place another block of wood, even plywood, on the underside to spread it out even more, and you could even sandwich in some rubber or plastic.)

Yes, always choose carbide dies if they are available. They aren't that much more from Lee and they save time/effort, which you'll appreciate especially since it sounds like you'll be tediously hand-cleaning all your cases. Does Lee offer carbide .223 dies (or does anyone else offer them at a similar price)?

Immediately get at least a cheap $15 digital jeweller's scale that measures in grains. The dipper is convenient but you shouldn't do without a scale of some sort.

Once you get into the swing of it, 1000 cases won't seem like as big of a time investment as you thought...though a tumbler would help. Do you have a treadmill? If so, you can use a $1 barrel from Dollar Tree, $4 Hartz corn cob bird litter (though finer media might be more pleasant with .223), and a glob of car polish or whatever similar stuff is handy. Place barrel on treadmill, block the end with something heavy (or turn treadmill around so open end is against a wall) so the barrel can't roll off, and run treadmill at 1.5mph for 90 minutes...cases come out sparkling clean.

Also, I'm not sure if you'll save much/any on the .223. As someone else mentioned, steel-cased (with allowed bullets) can be pretty cheap -- cheap enough to pay for the extra barrel wear twice over.

Of all the reloading components, bullets are most expensive (you already own the brass) and disappear fast. If you get into casting and can source scrap lead then you can definitely save money on .223, but casting is even more equipment investment (financially, and your limited space, plus you ought to do it outdoors).

u/KingRanch27 · 1 pointr/reloading

I have no experience with the RCBS turret press, but in general RCBS makes good stuff. I'm sure it'll work out quite well.

Priming Tool: https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Perfect-Primer-Seating/dp/B01B7OYUVC

or:

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-90200-Hand-Priming-Tool/dp/B000PW71LO/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1541981733&sr=1-1&keywords=RCBS+priming+tool

As far as .223 reloading dies, really any standard FL sizing die kit is going to work just fine. Some of the more expensive dies will be made from better steels, and will have slightly nicer features, but overall they're all kind of the same.

Here are some RCBS ones as an example...$30 for your basic die kit:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011278027/rcbs-2-die-set

For $5 more, these Hornady dies are a little nicer (probably a little easier to make smaller adjustments, and a vastly superior lock ring):
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011077269/hornady-custom-grade-new-dimension-2-die-set

If you want to "buy once cry once" for rifle dies, you can get these:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/248565/redding-type-s-match-bushing-2-die-set

I'd probably recommend the cheaper standard FL die set(s) for starting out, at least while you learn the basics.


Regarding the flash suppressing powder, I've never really messed with that; I also shoot all my ARs suppressed lol. :)


Typically the faster the powder the less flash it's going to have at the muzzle (i.e. faster powders have completely burned up by the time they exit the muzzle, whereas slower powders may not be completely burned, especially on a shorter barreled rifle). I can't recall any powders that market themselves as having a lower flash signature either; if anything they focus on being cleaner burning, or having agents added that will reduce copper fouling. Lastly, most of the discussion you'll find (and where it makes a much bigger difference) is with pistol reloading; with those you can see/feel/hear a major difference with the powders; it's just not as pronounced with rifles in my experience.


If you looked at this chart, and found a powder that was on the faster end of the spectrum (i.e. had a lower number) and also appeared in the .223 load data (that also gave good velocity), in theory that would be the best powder for a low flash application.

Chart:
https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/burn-rate-color.pdf

Hodgdon Load Data:
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle

u/HumidNut · 1 pointr/reloading
  1. Off the top of my head, for rifle you need calipers, case trimmer, die set to get started. Bullet puller, notebook, primer pocket swager is often of use.
  2. The 5-0-5 scale is wonderful. Works without batteries, accurate and repeatable.
  3. Depends on your scope of use. For the absolute smallest "holes on paper" consistency is key. With speed comes compromise. I use a powered trimmer (Frankfort Arsenal Case Case Prep Center with replacement rcbs Carbide cutter) but I'm balancing volume over absolute precision. +/- 002" is good enough for my skills and firearms.
  4. Sounds good, thats what I use, but opinions vary.
  5. I picked up this iGaging several years ago, its been good to me. No outstanding issues, but I'm not a professional machinist.
  6. All my stuff is legacy and the newest press I have is a 2015 Forster Co-Ax and I find it terrible for on-press priming. I prefer hand-priming to judge my brass' primer pocket feel (time to load one more time and chuck it).


    So with your scope of use, reloading might not be the path best taken given the monetary outlay. There's plenty of scary good factory ammo (I'm a fan of the Hornady SuperPerformance line) where it does almost as good as my reloads, minus the hassle and labor. If you said you were shooting 69/77gr match stuff, I could almost definitely tell you to fire up the press.

    If you intend to reload for other centerfire, especially large bore, or rimmed stuff, then the decision to grab a press is almost a given.
u/IMR800X · 0 pointsr/reloading

Indeed!

On this turret, all you have to do to make it a single-stage is pull off the turret head (lift up and twist) and then pull out the spiral-twisted auto advance bar in the center (it just sits there and is held in place by the turret.

Lock the turret back on and now you just change stations manually.

To go back to auto-advance, all you have to do is drop that auto-advance bar back in and away you go. No tools, maybe 5 seconds.

If you're ready for a bit of a steeper learning curve, you could dive in to the progressive, but if you don't have a reloading buddy to help you get set up, dialed in, and learn how to clear malfunctions, I'd not recommend it for a first-timer. Once you have the hang of things though, it's like hopping in a sports car after driving a Ford Festiva your whole life.


Now with a cool instructional video. This guy's whole channel is great for reloaders. He apparently has every press known to man and knows them all inside and out.



u/Kaborshnikov · 4 pointsr/reloading

Been using these for a while. High quality, not too expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5XJW7I/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Scale is difficult. A good digital scale is expensive, but possibly one of the best investments you can make if you care about precision reloading at all (I love my A&D FX 120i). If all you are doing is loading plinking ammo or are only shooting at close ranges, then go with a charge master or something relatively cheap that can do plus/minus 0.1 grain.

I use a L.E. Wilson trimmer. It's not the best if you are trying to do high volume loading, but it makes precise and repeatable trims.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading/case-preparation/case-trimming/case-trimmers/stainless-case-trimmer-kit-w-micrometer-platform-sku749013150-45573-99538.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-749-013-150&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-013-150&gclid=Cj0KCQiAheXiBRD-ARIsAODSpWPhI6PReWraUEHeW7cNETYpcbAFR4hteGyleJIBhsDWZI1gH2falkwaAsJdEALw_wcB

u/WesbroBaptstBarNGril · 33 pointsr/reloading

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

u/scfd524 · 1 pointr/reloading

+1 on the Lyman 49th. A lot of people use different presses and like anything else out there, people have good and bad experiences with them. The balance with presses is how much you shoot, and how much you want to spend. If you shoot 100's of rounds a month, you might want to think about spending a little more and getting a progressive. If you shoot 50 - 100 rds a month you can probably get by with a single stage. I'm right in the middle and I bought the Lee Classic Turret. I like it because I can have it auto index and load quicker for pistol rounds but take the indexing rod out and have a single stage if I want to load rifle some day. A lot of good people on this sub that are willing to give good advice.

If you get a progressive or a turret that's a 4 hole press, I recommend getting 3 die sets and using a powder cop die to help you watch your powder.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

u/Kuric1 · 2 pointsr/reloading

You may want to look into a turret style as it'll make things easier and faster. Like the Redding T7

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VNO2QO/

Also you may want to get a Frankford Arsenal digital scale it's 1/3 the price and has better reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BDOHNA/

I'd go with the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler it's easier, holds more and the brass is cleaner. Also no dust.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HTN4R6O/

Also get the Lyman kinetic bullet puller it's got a nice soft handle the collet puller is nice if you have a lot of them to do.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037N6IXA/

And don't forget a case gauge for each caliber

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QD9XQ2/

u/Garandxd · 9 pointsr/reloading

The Lee Classic Loader that you chose, says not for semi-autos since it doesn't full length resize. It just sizes the neck. I would get something like this instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-30-06-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162NUS0/

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I

You would need to swap out the dies between operations but this way you could control variables. I'll check back later today with more suggestions.

BTW, my Garand is a CMP Field Grade H&R circa 1953. Stock is a little beat up but metal is great and she's a great shooter.

u/looking4ammodeals · 3 pointsr/reloading

I recently invested in a Frankfort arsenal tumbler, but before that I used an old rock polisher to wet tumble. You can also use an old jug or 5 gallon bucket with a good seal to do the same thing. They all come out about the same, but I was tired of waiting for brass to dry since I am very impatient person lol. If you’re going to wet tumble I used a small splash of dawn dish soap and a 9mm case of lemi shine. If I used the rock tumbler I would let it go for about an hour, switch the water, and then do another hour. If I was doing it by hand with a 5gal bucket or an old jug I would I would do it on and off while watching tv and would switch the water once or twice once I could see it was really dirty. You can kinda tell when the brass is clean enough for your liking. Since I don’t pay for electricity, I would put a large box fan in front of it to help the drying process.

u/dorkra · 1 pointr/reloading

If you get the breech lock hand press (loaded my first thousand or so rounds on this..) don't forget the bushings for the dies.

Two trays for holding pre and post rounds would be useful. And a cheap scale. I used [this] (http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-GEMINI-20-Portable-MilliGram/dp/B0012TDNAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1417975573&sr=1-1&keywords=GEMINI-20) but another option would be this one.

A loading manual. You might want to get one before you do anything else, read it completely, and then go from there. Primers and bullets are pretty easy to get right now (at least in this neck of the woods) but powder is still plus or minus. See what powders you can even get. Online is always an option, but you have to pay an additional hazardous materials charge to have it shipped (~$28) so for small volumes of powder, it's can add quite a bit to your cost.

u/ickyfehmleh · 1 pointr/reloading

Honestly, for $116ish I'd opt for the [Lyman Case Prep Xpress] (http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Xpress-115-Volt/dp/B004TABTWU/) and save ~$10ish. Amazon reports that the Lyman unit is free one-day delivery, too. I have one with an [RCBS military crimp remover] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/) that I'd highly recommend.

u/Cantonious · 3 pointsr/reloading

I use disposable nitrile gloves. I like to keep my hands clean, and using lube and fiddling around with brass cases for an entire afternoon left my hands pretty disgusting, so I adopted the gloves.

Also, I see you've grabbed Hornady Unique for lube, if you're doing more than a handful of cases Hornady One-Shot Case Lube might be a better solution. It's a little less messy than Unique and less time consuming when doing batches. I have both of them, and I find myself preferring the One Shot if I have more than about 10 cases to do.

Someone else suggested a tumbler, and I agree with that. I usually deprime, resize, neck-trim, primer pocket clean, and deburr all before sonic cleaning and tumbling.

u/SmoothSlavperator · 3 pointsr/reloading

Yeah...a Lee press is like $30.
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504265516&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+reloading+press


Lee RGB Dies are $20. You'll save a lot of headaches.
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-308-RGB-Die/dp/B000NOSH1W/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504265559&sr=1-3&keywords=lee+RGB

Shell holder
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-R2-Shell-Holder/dp/B00144I7BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504265597&sr=1-4&keywords=lee+shell+holder


Case trimming......If you really want to do it the ghetto way, you can use a piece of sandpaper, laying it flat on a table and rubbing the case mouth in a consistent manner on the sandpaper. Alternately you can use a coutersink bit from Home depot and just hog off the excess brass with a hand drill. Trim die is probably your next cheapest option.

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-90231-308-QUICK-TRIM/dp/B00FORZS2E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504265346&sr=8-4&keywords=lee+quick+trim

Digital scale like this is alright....just check it with a known value each time you use it. Use a bullet or a pellet gun pellet or something. If you're using a middle burn rate powder like IMR4064 or Tac or something...you have to be pretty far off...by probably ten grains... before it gets dangerous if you're going for a middle of the road charge. Consistency is more important for accuracy.

https://www.amazon.com/Ascher-Digital-Back-lit-Display-Weighing/dp/B01IXHSPDK/ref=sr_1_10?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1504265087&sr=1-10&keywords=digital+scale.


Simple ram type primer....or just use the priming function of the lee loader you already have....

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-LP90106-Lee-Precision-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504265432&sr=8-5&keywords=lee+priming+tool

And then a set of calipers to check your length

https://www.amazon.com/YKS-Composite-Vernier-Digital-Caliper/dp/B01DXAFZ94/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1504265810&sr=8-12&keywords=calipers

u/sqlbullet · 3 pointsr/reloading

I am gonna elaborate a bit on the lee press thing.

If I count my presses by brand I have 3 by Lee, 1 by RCBS and 1 Dillon.

If I could only have one press, it would be the RCBS.

But, I load the fewest rounds on that press, and use it the least, so why would the RCBS be the one press I would keep.

The answer is simple. It does pretty much anything I need done, just slower than any of the others. And it does a few things that would reduce the others to scrap.

If you are looking for a budget option to learn reloading, and only reloading, then get the Lee Reloader Press. This is a "C" style press and is my most used press. In fact, I have two of them.

Generally can be purchased for under $40. In fact, amazon has a prime eligible returned press right now for $29.91. Add a Lee Ram Prime and a set of Lee dies with a dipper and you could be reloading basic pistol or rifle for about $71 in equipment. This is probably your best route as you can offset the cost of the equipment in short time.

Go this route and by the time you have recouped the cost of the press, you will know enough to make a good informed decision on your next press. Or you may be happy.

But, one time I had a wild hair and wondered if I could swage a spent 40 S&W case down to serve as a jacket blank for a 200 grain 10mm bullet. You can, but not on a Lee Reloader C press. I used my RCBS press, and had to make some of my own tooling.

Links:

Press: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B002SF4X5I

Ram Prime: http://a.co/baJkSSY

Dies: http://a.co/6znVpPR

Full Disclosure: I have never used the Ram Prime. I started with an RCBS kit that included their hand priming tool. I included the ram prime as it is the cheapest option.

u/rubbinisracin · 1 pointr/reloading

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

  • A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.

    This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
u/AllMiataAllTheTime · 2 pointsr/reloading

Thanks for the tip. I found this listing on Amazon and it looks pretty nice. Comes with 12 shell holders, that's very convenient. I'll think about picking it up. My RCBS one doesn't work very well for me and I end up mangling a primer every once in a while, then I have to deprime and dispose of it. It's a hassle. Do you have that kind of thing happen with yours?

I have generally done what you described with cleaning one day, de-priming another, priming a following day and then loading with powder and bullet. I just like the idea of being able to do all in one go efficiently. But even doing it how you describe, the priming still takes too long with too many problems.

u/XSlevinn · 1 pointr/reloading

I would invest in some case gauges and headspace gauges. This way you can do a plunk test to make sure they're in spec without actually doing a plunk test in the firearm. I tend to check every 5-10th round to make sure they all seem to be in spec.. There's nothing worse than loading 200 rounds and find out that you maybe accidentally changed something or something moved and they're all out of spec.

I use the Wilson Case Gauge and it works really well. Lyman has one for about $21 you can try. I was going to get that one and changed my mind after I heard a story or two about the Lyman one not being stainless steel and got rusty.. but I live in the desert and don't have a swamp cooler so I shouldn't have to worry about that. Didn't think about it at the time.

Right now for a cheap way to trim, I use the Lyman E-ZEE Trimmer attached to my power drill.

You'll also want a good pair of calipers. I use the Hornady Digital Caliper and it works well enough.

If I think of anything else, I'll update.

u/cosmos7 · 1 pointr/reloading

That's cool and all, but for the same money you could buy a Lee Hand Press and a universal decapping die, and have a more useful tool.

u/Barry_McKackiner · 1 pointr/reloading

I have the same wet tumbler you do. I use this media separator to spin around the cases to remove any pins I missed from shaking out the tumbler into a big bucket. Works very well. I fill it with water and do one run through water and then another run in open air.

Also, GET THE MAGNET those little bastard pins get everywhere and your life will be 100 times easier with the magnet to pick them up quickly.

As for drying them after, I got THIS food dehydrator. works like a charm. It's got a good price point and it has temp and timer controls so you can set it and forget it. I usually run it for 1.5 hours at 130 degrees to dry out my brass. I'd also recommend additional mesh nets as smaller cases like 9mm want to fall through the outer spokes. The nets prevent this and also let you put more on there completely horizontal to get any remaining water to drip out.

u/Rhad47 · 3 pointsr/reloading

Forster makes great tools, but I would reconsider the priming tool. I don't like having to fill up primer tubes -- I prefer to just flip the tray of primers into something like the Lee auto prime, shake them to line them up, and then prime.

Also, having done this for a while, I finally broke down and bought a Lyman case prep Xpress https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU. Yeah it's more money, but it runs quiet, saves your fingers, and does a variety of other tasks, like cleaning and uniforming primer pockets, removing case primer crimps (if your cases have any), lubing case necks. If you do enuf reloading, it's well worth it.

u/Bareen · 4 pointsr/reloading

The 3lb would work, but if you can get a deal on the 6lb one, I'd get it. I have the 6lb one(dual drum) and if I remember correctly, I do 50 cases of .308 or 7.62x54r cases per drum, each works out to be about 1lb of brass. For 9mm and 45acp, I weigh out a pound on a kitchen scale.

I do 1lb brass, 1lb stainless steel pins, 1 lb water, a squirt of laundry soap, and a 9mm case worth of lemishine.

I deprime before cleaning with a Lee depriming die.

I tumble for 30 min to an hour, then separate from the pins, rinse, and let dry.

I also load on a single stage about once a month, and it works great for me.

If you have any questions, you can PM me.

u/ArizonaSnake · 3 pointsr/reloading

I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498694071&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+calipers

There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.

Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs

u/uid_0 · 1 pointr/reloading

I don't know what kind of volume you plan on doing, but you might consider the Lyman E-Zee Trim as well. It will allow you to trim by hand or use a power drill. I recently bought one and can trim, de-burr, and chamfer a .223 case in a bit less than 15 seconds.

u/lilkiduno · 4 pointsr/reloading

For your requests I would recommend the following:

Harbor Freight Grinder Stand

Plywood

Lee Reloader Single Stage Press

Lee Universal Decapping and Depriming Die

Frankford Arsenal Tumbler Kit

This will get you in the door with pretty much the basic tools to begin your cleaning & depriming steps taken care of.

You can piece this together $25-$30 at a time. This set up will give you a work area you can make as big/small as you need it.

u/A_Plinkers_Damn · 1 pointr/reloading

For what it's worth, my Lee 50th Anniversary kit has been fantastic for me. I will admit that I almost instantly swapped out the included measure for the Pro Auto Disk and the beam scale for an electronic. I also invested in a universal decapper.

How are you planning on case cleaning? Ultrasonic, vibratory, wet tumbling (like the cool kids do)...?

u/Mouseater1 · 1 pointr/reloading

I don't know how to help you when I don't know what is in the kit in the first place. You will needs dies for sure though, for an inexpensive scale you can use AWS gemini 20. I have that and like it, and here is a video review comparing it to expensive ones as well

Scale: https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-GEMINI-20-Portable-MilliGram/dp/B0012TDNAM

Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27DxtdaXFYE

u/I922sParkCir · 2 pointsr/reloading

That kit has a tumbler. Possibly a better scale. I have both and the GemPro is worlds better.

You could use a 3-die set so you can incorporate a powder-check die. I consider it essential on a progressive, and a good safety on a turret.

u/fumblesvp · 2 pointsr/reloading

If you are going with a hand priming option, I would suggest a tool with an adjustable primer seating depth.

This is probably the best option on the market.
http://www.xxicsi.com/stainless-steel-priming-tool.html

I use the Frankford Arsenal option
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Perfect-Primer-Seating/dp/B01B7OYUVC

u/pedee · 2 pointsr/reloading

I just started to and you need to chamfer and deburring tool.

This one is the best IMO http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422086949&sr=8-2&keywords=lyman+case+prep&pebp=1422086951922&peasin=B004MCMCYE

If you are reloading 556 brass with a crimp around the primer you may also want this tool that also fits into the above layman tool. http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422087101&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+crimp+remover&pebp=1422087104120&peasin=B0063IDE6A

You can get the crimp off with a razor or the first tool but its easy to put this in the drill chuck and crank them out by the numbers.

u/PR3VI3W · 1 pointr/reloading

The primer pockets are definitely cleaner. I will load almost all of them without using a primer pocket cleaner because they are plenty clean. It's not as loud as I was expecting but it's definitely not quiet. I would still run it in an apartment I just wouldn't put in right up to a wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=pd_sim_misc_2

That's what I bought.

u/beer_n_guns · 4 pointsr/reloading

I would add:

Hornady's bullet comparator https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA - This allows you to measure seating depth off the ogive of the bullet, which is much more consistent than going off the tip of the bullet.

Hornady's overall length gauge https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Overall-Length-Gauge-Curved/dp/B000PD6SD0/ref=pd_sim_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PD6SD0&pd_rd_r=6K3666EQ4851J0R8AKHC&pd_rd_w=JBOSV&pd_rd_wg=kwjaE&psc=1&refRID=6K3666EQ4851J0R8AKHC & https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Winchester-Modified/dp/B000PD6RJA/ref=pd_lpo_200_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2S9PEM17YKNN0J5WDMYK - This allows you to measure your gun's chamber, which is important for developing seating depth.

I like RCBS dies.

Beyond that, your list is complete. The only remaining suggestion I have is considering stepping up to a cast iron press. Strength = precision.

u/OldManfromTX · 1 pointr/reloading

>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.

Yep.

I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.

I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.

Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.

u/giantpeckawood · 2 pointsr/reloading

I use the [Lee Universal Decapping die] (https://www.amazon.com/LEE-LP90292-Lee-Precision-Decapping/dp/B002SF2ZXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499724278&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+universal+decapping+die) but changed the pin to the hardened one from Squirrel Daddy. Works great for the 6 different calibers I reload. Haven't had one break and can't recall having to even adjust the sliding pin.

u/seathru · 1 pointr/reloading

A cheap digital scale made a huge improvement in my consistency.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W5VXN53

As with most cheap chinese goods, quality control is hit or miss so check it against a known good scale. But both of mine have been extremely accurate when I tested them.

u/slimyprincelimey · 1 pointr/reloading

Your best bet is getting him a brand new [lee] (https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I). You're not gonna beat that price, and they do work, quite well.

u/MrBrian22 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I always recommend getting analog calipers instead of the digital ones. That way you don't have to worry about batteries dying on you, and in my experience, the analog ones give much more consistent readings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5XJW7I

I would also suggest that you skip the Hornady case trimmer, and go ahead and upgrade to something like the Frankford Arsenal Prep center.
https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Case-Trim-Prep-System/dp/B00HS7JEB4
Yes, it's $100 more, but after doing about 50 cases by hand, you'll be ready to get an electric trimmer, and then you'll just have the $75 manual trimmer sitting there unused (unless you plan on trimming straight-walled cases) The Frankford prep center would also give you a chamfer/deburring tool, and primer pocket cleaners, and you can simply get a military crimp remover for it like this. https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-LG/dp/B0063IDEK6 that would fit right in the prep station (which could be a big bonus if you get into military 7.62x51 brass)
As far as dies, I like the Lee dies, and if you want "precision rifle" rounds, then go ahead and get the four die set, so you get both a full length resizer and a neck sizer die. I also like Lee dies because they include the shell holder and they have the crimping die seperate from the bullet seating die (but that's personal preference)
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Reloading-Ultimate-Rifle/dp/B00HAN37H8/
Lastly, I can't speak for the Hornady Neck Turning Tool, but I would suggest not getting that yet, and putting that $100 towards the prep station. I don't have experience with neck turning, but I really don't think it'll give you that much added accuracy.

u/lazyear · 1 pointr/reloading

I don't see a set of calipers listed. I have a pair of these that I like. Will be useful for trying to get the right seating depth/case length you want, especially for precision rifle.

u/dbinkerd · 1 pointr/reloading

Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.

u/evilbit · 5 pointsr/reloading

i got me a lee equivalent to use for decapping. it's perfectly fine for that purpose, but i'd go nuts if i had to load ammo in this thing.

if i was you, i'd wait till i can save a bit more and get the rockchucker instead - decision is not even close in my view.

u/AdmireNot · 3 pointsr/reloading

Don't go nuts on a scale and calibers. I've got this scale and a cheap set of calibration weights and it's amazing.

WAOAW W-01-50 Digital Milligram Scale 50 X 0.001Gram Reloading Jewelry Scale Digital Weight with Calibration Weights Tweezers and Weighing Pans (Batteries Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5VXN53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r7BxDbK5YCMJY

u/Zephyranthes74 · 5 pointsr/reloading

Remove the primer crimp and you'll be good to prime with none damaged.




Cheaper



Funsies


Or you can swage the primer pocket which pushes the brass back into itself, compared to removing brass.

u/BexarArms · 11 pointsr/reloading

Those are crimps, be sure to remove them before trying to reload.

You can use a swage tool to remove them, or use a countersink bit or a crimp remover like what RCBS has.

u/wparsons · 1 pointr/reloading

Most vibratory tumblers aren't so loud you'll have problems with them in an apartment. You probably won't want it sitting in the room with you while it's running, but it's not so bad that it'll likely cause complaints from your neighbors.

Here's a pretty good kit that includes a tumbler and media separator for $66 or just the tumbler for $45

u/hKemmler · 1 pointr/reloading

I'd recommend this dehydrator and if you're doing a bunch at once get more of these and depending on how small your brass is I'd recommend some of these.

I can take my brass out of my wet tumbler, toss them in the dehydrator, and have dry brass in a couple of hours ready to go. Not sure how many is in this picture but I was able to do about 90% of it in one go

u/Criton47 · 7 pointsr/reloading

Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.

Brass turns out looking like brand new!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C

u/nappiestapparatus · 3 pointsr/reloading

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-GEMINI-20-Portable-MilliGram/dp/B0012TDNAM

I'm sure it's not as nice as $100-$200 scale but it measures to 0.001g, +/- 0.005g (only 20g max though). It's worked well for me so far.

u/kfromm65 · 1 pointr/reloading

Here is a good kit to get started, disclaimer you will almost always want to upgrade. You will also need dies, powder and primers

LEE PRECISION Classic Turret Press Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M5TSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.8GTCbVPSE29H

u/MD_Brah · 1 pointr/reloading

I recommend the RCBS primer crimp removal tool. I've found that it is a lot more consistent than the reamer type tools like the one linked above. The RCBS tool has a hard stop which prevents you from going too deep and enlarging the primer pocket, leading to loose primers. I recommend using it in a power drill if you don't have a case prep center.

RCBS Trim Mate Military Crimp Remover-SM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063IDE6A

u/CannibalVegan · 3 pointsr/reloading

I use the Hornady Bullet Comparator tool which measures from base to the ogive depending on the caliber of the bullet. It would be nice if those measurements were provided by reloading companies. Specifically the hornady manual since the Comparator tool is a Hornady product.

u/nootay · 1 pointr/reloading

also, are you planning on tumbling your brass? I also deprime before i tumble using a decapping die. Definitely not a requirement though.

u/OffsetFreq · 1 pointr/reloading

In all honesty I don't think all of that equipment is necessary. I'd spend more money on a scale like the Gempro 250 to weight sort cases/projectiles.

I think that, for bolt action precision, the Lee Dies are more fitting because of the collet neck sizer die.

Also get a flash hole deburrer.

u/lerkkmore · 1 pointr/reloading

This works nice. Accurate to 0.02gn, so I feel confident about my tenths. You'll want a small weigh boat for larger charges (I use folded tin foil). Cheaper and more precise than the name brand models. My buddy's got the cheap Frankford arsenal scale, and for the same money this one's much nicer.

u/vwgtiturbo · 1 pointr/reloading

It is electronic (so it's quicker), accurate to .001 grain and rock solid (30 warranty doesn't hurt). See here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C3I3AA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xlbBub13AFGAM

u/Tom_Pain · 1 pointr/reloading

I've never used it, so I don't know how hard it is to re-size, but Lee swears it works, and it is big enough.

Here's the other "cheap" press.

2-die .308 set

2-die .223

The 2-die sets will work with either press.

u/Poop-Back-and-Forth · 5 pointsr/reloading

This is not the right way to do this.

Lyman makes a primer pocket reamer.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Primer-Pocket-Reamer/dp/B001OPLS2Y

Or if you want motorized, you can get the Case Prep Xpress, which includes the reamer.

https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU

u/absolut525 · 1 pointr/reloading

The Lee Classic Turret Press kit would be my recommendation over the rockchucker. That is just personal preference though and it doesn't look like Midway carries it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008M5TSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511499948&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press&dpPl=1&dpID=51fxJTv0BZL&ref=plSrch

Amazon does though.

u/bdsmchs · 1 pointr/reloading

The frankford arsenal tumbler keeps going down in price and comes with 5 pounds of SS pins (a $50 value).

http://amzn.com/B00HTN4R6O

I know people love to do things cheaply, but this thing isn't that expensive and can hold a LOT of brass and SS pins. It has a timer built in so you can literally set it and forget it.

u/langhorn · 1 pointr/reloading

When you say you're using the Hornady setup do you mean you're using the Hornady bullet comparator?

u/MurphyDuke · 1 pointr/reloading

I had a GemPro 250, and I opted to downgrade to this one

I find that it is just as accurate, just slightly more cumbersome to use. I would rather spend the extra money on components / dies.

u/Notorious_Dave · 1 pointr/reloading

This is my current plan, tell me what you think I should do different.

Press

Bullet puller

Scale

Dies

Caliper

Book

Tumbler

Media

Media Seperator


Case Prep Tool


Trimmer And also the needed shell holder

u/InFamousA11 · 1 pointr/reloading

WAOAW Digital Milligram Scale 50 X 0.001g Reloading Jewelry Scale Digital Weight with Calibration Weights Tweezers and Weighing Pans (Batteries included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5VXN53?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/SyxEight · 1 pointr/reloading

You can also go with this
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A The advantage of the RCBS version is that you just bottom it out. With the Lee one you can cut too deep.

u/allsyrt · 2 pointsr/reloading

I have the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Rotary Tumbler Here and couldn't be happier. It is now the same price or less than Ultra Sonic and does a much better job for me. I have every method out there, HF drum, HF dry, HF Ultra Sonic, RCBS Ultra Sonic, etc.. The Wet tumbler is the king of them all and a food dehydrator gets used in the winter to dry brass or a towel on the picnic table during the summer. The only problem I have is the brass will tarnish within days of drying, I'm looking into a solution for that right now. Others seem to have figured out the tarnishing problem already.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/reloading

What are you doing for hand depriming? One of these? https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Platinum-Deprimer-Reloading/dp/B00RPABDZO



But to answer the question any single stage press will work Lee sells one for under $30. But you will need to buy shell plates for every caliber. (some interchange) Buy a lee universal decaping die and it will work for all calibers, you have to adjust it for that specific caliber, but its turning a screw basically. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-LP90292-Decapping-Die/dp/B002SF2ZXU

u/IAmWhatYouHate · 2 pointsr/reloading

As a new reloader myself, I'm going to make the suggestion that you drop $35 on a single-stage press and learn on that. There's enough to concentrate on when you're only doing one thing at a time, let alone five different things.

You can use the same dies as the other press, and I assume your dad has a scale, calipers, and all the other stuff you would need. (Heck, he may even have a single-stage already. Check around.)

u/helix6 · 3 pointsr/reloading

I use a Gemini 20 and a Redding #5 trickler, but I'm a cheap SOB. The scale is accurate to .02 grains.

u/jag0007 · 1 pointr/reloading

why not this route?

u/southofi10 · 5 pointsr/reloading

If you think that's the problem, you may also want to try the Lee Univeral Decapper. I deprime all of my brass on an LNL with one of these before I wet tumble. That adds another step to the process, but dem shiny primer pockets, tho! And, you avoid running dirty brass through your dies.

u/WildBTK · 1 pointr/reloading

Hello,

For plinking loads, which I assume is your main purpose for reloading, cleaning primer pockets is not essential.

I recommend you do not run dirty brass through your sizing die as the dirt buildup may damage the swaging surface (made of carbide in most straight-walled sizers today, including Lee dies). This could also leave scratches on your brass during the sizing process. Therefore, do not go with option #3.

This all boils down to how much time you want to spend on each step and what you want at the end of the process. Depending on how accurately you want to track your brass usage and what you're starting with (new or used brass), you could do a deprime and primer pocket cleaning every, say, 5th reload.

As for my ultimate recommendation: either option #1 or #4, with #1 being preferred for plinking ammo.

Edit:
You may want to invest in a Lee universal decapping die. Link Very handy for general decapping and the pin design is friction-based, so there's less of a chance of the pin tip being snapped off or broken if you get a funky piece of brass in there.

u/farkdog · 4 pointsr/reloading

What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.

You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.

Here is what you will need:

  1. A reloading manual. This is a book of known good "recipes" for making cartridges for different kinds of powder and bullets. $19.99.
  2. A way to deprime spent brass (remove used primers).
  3. A set of dies. These resize the brass to correct dimensions, seat the bullet, and crimp the cartridge.
  4. Bullets.
  5. Brass.
  6. Primers.
  7. Powder.
  8. A scale for measuring powder $29.57.
  9. A bullet puller. This allows you to rework screwed-up cartridges $12.99.
  10. A press of some kind to run your cartridges through your dies.

    Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":

    http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading

    You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.

    If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.

    Reloading basically follows these steps:

  11. Deprime the brass.
  12. Resize external dimensions of brass.
  13. Bell case mouth to accept new bullet.
  14. Press in new primer.
  15. Charge cartridge with powder.
  16. Seat bullet.
  17. Crimp cartridge mouth.

    There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.

    A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.

    A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.

    A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.

    I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.

    You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.

    If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.

    Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.

    Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.

    Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.

    The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.