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No worries. I figured you were just busy for the weekend. Like I said - you have your life to deal with. I'm not going to take it personally if you're MIA for a few days, haha. :)

I had a good weekend - I didn't do anything productive, whatsoever. Just took some time to relax and take care of myself.

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Getting to meet that milk snake is super exciting! I just did a bit of reading about them, and it sounds like young milks are usually somewhat hyperactive, but that they calm down with age.

From my reading, here's what you will need to purchase:

1. Vivarium - usually you want 1ft^2 of floor space per 1' the snake will be, full grown.
   
   From my reading, milk snakes can get between 2' and 6' full grown. If possible, find out the subspecies so we can narrow that range down. Most likely, it's a Pueblan or Honduran milk snake (two of the most common subspecies). Honduran milks can get up to 5', so a safe cage size would be 3' x 2' (length x width). Pueblans only get between 3' and 4', so we don't really need to worry about those.
   
   If you can't find out the subspecies, you could either just get a 3' x 2' viv, or get something smaller and increase the size as necessary.
   
   
2. Heating element and thermostat. A heat pad would be ideal, considering that milk snakes sometimes burrow. Here's an example of a thermostat and heat pad. You attach the heat pad to the bottom of the cage, making sure not to have the viv resting on top of the heat pad or wires (or else you run the risk of short circuits and fires).
   
   After you set up the heat pad, run the thermostat probe to the inside of your viv, usually placing it inside of the hide on the warm side. Alternatively, as milks sometimes burrow, you may want to put the thermostat temperature probe closer underneath your substrate, at the bottom of the viv. This will insure that you know what the hottest temperature that your milk can be exposed to by burrowing.
   
   My reading suggests that you want to keep the warm side ~85f - 90f. Not sure what that is in C.
   
   
3. Digital thermometer/hygrometer like this one. You want one that has probes, so you can check specific points around your viv.
   
   At first, you will want to keep your thermometer probe at the same location as your thermostat probe, just to make sure that's reading correctly. After you've verified that, you can move the thermometer probe to the cool side, so you can keep an eye on both sides.
   
   Alternatively, some people get laser temperature sensors so they can quickly and easily check the temperature of any part of the viv. You'd still need to get a hygrometer (humidity sensor) if you went that route.
   
   
4. Substrate. Looks like Aspen or Cypress are both excellent substrates for milks. You can also use paper towels or newspaper as temporary, sanitary solutions in case of any injury/illness.
   
   You'll probably want 6"+ of substrate over the entire floor of the viv, as milks do sometimes burrow. Giving them enough substrate to allow that is advised.
   
   
5. Hides, terrain, water dish, etc. Hides should be snug-ish, and terrain should look cool. Water dish you probably want to be big enough for the snake to soak in if he wants, but that's about all.
   
   Milks need like 40% - 60% humidity, so you probably don't need to worry about that in the slightest. Getting a little spray bottle might be a good choice, though.
   
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   Yeah, it's definitely something that I take for granted until someone (such as yourself) reminds me how different things are elsewhere.
   
   I've never taken Puppy to the vet. She's never had any injuries or health problems. Speaking of taking things for granted, if I ever needed a vet, I'd find one at that point. Might be a good idea to just get an idea of whether there are nearby vets for you, though.
   
   -------------
   
   I'd have been shocked if you'd thought about snake body language before - not many people have. Even most other reptile owners don't seem to have paid as much attention to it as I have.
   
   I can think of one particular time that I've seen Puppy "happy". It was this spring, the first time I took her outside this year. And in that case, it was more an example of "extremely relaxed" than it was "happy/excited" like you see in dogs.
   
   I'm glad you like Puppy. :)
   
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   Yeah, I understand where you're coming from. You've got to temper your desires with the realities of your situation, and a milk snake is an excellent compromise.
   
   Honestly, I have never interacted with a Woma, although I'd like to someday. From what the OP of that other thread was saying, it sounds like he was quite intent on eating their arm, and it took 5 minutes to get him off.

It's not unidentifiable. In fact, I already did it for you three months ago. It's almost certainly a Greek (aka spur-thighed) tortoise. If you see these spurs on his backside, it's a Greek tortoise.

I recommend you familiarize yourself with the care sheet from TortoiseForum. Here are the major points:

Substrate

The best possible substrates for housing Greek tortoises indoors are a 50/50 mix of top soil and play sand, cypress mulch and aspen wood shavings. (Personally I'd use cypress mulch instead of Aspen, since it's less likely to mold. NEVER use cedar.)

Food

Offer weeds such as Dandelion, clover, plantain, hawksbit, cat's ear, wild strawberry, and thistle. Store bought greens like collards, mustards, kale and turnip can be offered sparingly. Commercial diets such as Mazuri are excellent for helping the tortoises maintain good weight but again should be offered only in moderation. (I can buy dandelion greens in the grocery store here. Also, since your tortoise has metabolic bone disease, a SERIOUS condition, be diligent in dusting all food with calcium powder with D3. D3 is something that you'd supplement occasionally in a healthy tort that gets lots of UVB. Yours has been starved of UVB, and therefore needs more D3 for a while.)

Water

A shallow water dish should be available to them at all times for drinking and soaking and should be changed frequently. Tortoises defecate in water so keeping the supply clean is a must.
They also appreciate occasional misting of their environment and may see it as rain. This prompts them to empty their bowels and drink. (Animals need water. A bit of a no-brainer.)

Lighting

When housing them inside, proper lighting is essential for keeping them healthy. Mercury vapor bulbs which provide both UVA and UVB are a personal favorite of mine. A 100-150 watt vapor bulb is installed on one end only of the indoor unit and this makes for a perfect basking area. The opposite end should remain cool. You can also use a regular spot light for the basking area so long as it reaches a temperature of 95-100F. In this case, a fluorescent UVB emitting bulb will need to be installed as well. (You should ALWAYS have a UVB bulb in your enclosure. Replace it every six months, or yearly if you use a mercury vapor bulb. NEVER use a coil-shaped bulb. These bulbs are a suitable replacement for coil-shaped ones.)

Housing

Indoors, the construction of a "tortoise table" will suit the needs of these creatures well. A 3 by 6 foot unit made of plywood will suffice for a single adult and up to a pair of adults. Wood is always recommended over plastic or glass so that the tortoises cannot see out. This way they will learn their boundaries and it will lessen their attempts to escape. (Don't keep them in glass aquariums. The ability to see outside without being able to go outside can stress your tort. They don't understand transparent glass, and will never learn how to deal with it.)

In addition to the caresheet excerpts above, I recommend you give your tort a good 20-minute soak in warm (not hot) water once a week. Captive torts are almost always mildly dehydrated. Soaking encourages them to drink. It also allows them to absorb water through their cloaca.

Finally, although this tortoise is easy to care for, it is a serious responsibility. Just as you can't feed a dog nothing but table scraps, you can't provide inadequate food and UVB to your tortoise. A bit of daily sunshine just isn't enough. If you're here seeking help for your animal, I can only hope it's because you want to put in the effort to rehabilitate him.

If you want to keep your tort, do your own research and learn how to make him happy and healthy. If it seems like too much responsibility, put him up on craigslist. Mention the soft shell in the ad, and that he's free to anyone with tortoise experience. You can tell who's qualified by asking just a few questions about how they intend to house and care for the tortoise.

i definitely feel you; they caught my heart when i got my first frog at age 10 🌝 (she was an african clawed frog though. RIP Lily, i miss her)

so white’s need an enclosure with more vertical space than horizontal, since they’re arboreal. like i said i’ve got my adults in an 18x18x24 but i’ve been planning for a while to upgrade them to an 18x18x36, which i might get at the next expo.

they’re not super demanding as far as humidity and temperature goes, which makes them a great beginner frog. even so, i have a ZooMed HygroTherm hooked up to a fogger and heat mat so their humidity doesn’t drop below 50% and so their temp doesn’t drop below 75F. i got the fogger on amazon... and the HygroTherm too. together they’re pretty expensive but it really is worth it to get these frogs set up correctly. plus my HygroTherm has worked consistently and without fail for almost 8 continuous years now. really is among the best $70 i’ve spent. and for the fogger i should mention i’ve had to sort of cut a small hole in the top mesh of the cage to avoid the metal mesh of the lid rusting. i can take a picture to show you what i mean if you’d like. the frogs don’t mind; they can’t even climb onto the mesh and they never try to either. their safety and comfort is #1 so i found a way that works, lol.

as far as substrate goes, most people use Eco Earth coconut fiber. that’s what i used for years until i found josh’s frogs, and i switched to a piece of their frog foam. that shizz is a game changer. no more messy frogs, no more dumping coconut fiber out every cleaning, no more searching for frog poop. the stuff is great, and is reusable for a long time as long as you keep it clean. so that’s what i recommend for substrate.

for lighting, my guys have a dual light fixture on a timer that switches from a 23-watt UVB bulb during the day to one of these at night. the UVB turns on at 9am and it switches to the night light at 9pm.

beyond that, they just need things to climb on and hide in, and a water bowl to soak in clean (bottled) spring water that isn’t so deep that they risk drowning. it’s inevitable that they’ll often use the water bowl as a toilet, so be prepared to clean it every time you see poop in it. in addition to the water bowl my guys have a magnetic ledge, some fake bamboo, a fake vine with suction cups, a piece of driftwood, a reptile hammock, and a small hollow log in their cage. i can take a picture of the entire setup if you’d like. my female spends most of her time in the big piece of bamboo and my smaller male spends most of his time inside the log. my big male Burp is the one who’s all over the place and often sleeps on the magnetic ledge, lol.

when it comes to feeding, they eat every other day, 3 dubia roaches each. and every other feeding, one of their roaches gets dusted with a vitamin supplement, and one gets dusted with a calcium + d3 supplement. roaches that are 1/2” to 5/8” in size are best; any larger may be a choking hazard. if you’re not sure, the general rule is to not give them an insect that’s wider than the space between the eyes of the animal. sub-adult and adult roaches are an absolute no-no for these frogs as they’re wayyyy too big.

i’ll also occasionally give them a wax worm or a couple of phoenix worms to change things up. wax worms should not be given more than a couple of times a month, though, since they’re pretty high in fat and low in nutritious value. like froggy junk food, lol. i tong-feed all of my animals (except my dwarf frogs haha) so there’s never any loose insects in the cage and i always know exactly how much they’ve eaten. white’s take to tong-feeding quite well.

and that’s their basic care! like i said, they’re kinda expensive to set up properly but it’s so worth doing. once you have that out of the way they are pretty dang easy to care for. they don’t really require UVB lighting during the day since they’re a nocturnal species that hides and sleeps during the day; i just have that kind of light for them because they have a live pothos plant in their cage. as long as they’re on a consistent 12-hour day/night cycle, that’s what matters. they do soooo well on a consistent routine.

if you have any questions about their care or if i’ve missed anything, don’t ever hesitate to ask. i love these frogs dearly and am quite happy to help anyone out who’s thinking of getting some of their own. 🌝

Most people recommend ball pythons, cornsnakes and kingsnakes (and those all are good choices), however it's ultimately up to you! For example, I got a red tail boa constrictor as my first snake and I've only seen one person recommend them as beginner snakes. And honestly, I was glad I got my boa, he's such a sweetheart and his care is very similar to a ball pythons, just on a bigger scale! Plus he's a reptilian garbage disposal, so I don't have to worry about him skipping meals.

I've also seen breeders recommend ratsnakes and gopher/bullsnakes because their husbandry is very easy and they're typically very good eaters. While they're known to be a little temperamental, regular handling will calm them down pretty quickly. I've also seen Kenyan sand boas and children's pythons reccomended, plus they usually don't get too big, and all the snakes I've mentioned come in various morphs so it would be fairly easy to find one thats to your liking!

Snake Discovery, Clint's Reptiles and Josser's Jungle are a very good start! They upload educational videos and they're extremely helpful with information and helping you decide what snake is good for you.

As for getting the actual snake, never buy from large chain pet stores. Always try to get them from a reliable breeder, and the best way to do that is reptile expos! You'll be able to find a bunch of different morphs of various species and you can get supplies and food for pretty cheap.

Another thing to keep in mind is the lifespan and the supplies they need. Bigger snakes need bigger terrariums which cost more, need bigger meals, etc. You will also need a heat mat or heat tape that's connected to a thermostat regardless of species. snakes are kinda dumb and will continue to sit on a warm spot even if it burns them, so thermostats are a must! I use this thermostat for all 3 of my snakes and it works great!

And don't forget to do lot's of research! Look into the snake species itself, it's temperature and humidity requirements, the tank/tub size, and whether or not there are any breeders or expos nearby! Anyway, I hope this helped in some way, and good luck!!

your snake isn't eating because you have some serious husbandry issues you need to address. i'm going to dump a bunch of links for you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, then come back with any questions.

you haven't said what type of enclosure you have, but i'm going to assume it's a tank, as they're so commonly used for snakes. glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

So I don’t know exactly how much I’ve spent on my beardie since he was given to me with almost everything I needed to care for him, but I can give you the basics.

First off, for the flooring you can use paper towels to start, or contact cabinet paper that can be found at a dollar tree. I don’t think tile is that expensive, but if you’re unable to get some at the moment those work just fine. I also suggest covering the back and sides of the tank so the beardie doesn’t see its reflection and get stressed

You’ll need at least one hide on the cooler side, which can be made from something as simple as a small cardboard box with a hole cut in it or some bricks that are arranged into a cave-like hide

A basking area can be made from bricks purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or if you choose to use any driftwood/rocks you find just make sure you clean them properly

Calcium powder is also extremely important to help your beardie not develop MBD. I’m part of a Facebook bearded dragon group that suggests this brand sprinkled over greens/bugs three times a week: https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-calcium-plus/dp/166276 I poke some holes in the paper lid with a toothpick to create a shaker-type deal so I’m not wasting any calcium

I think one of the most expensive parts is the UVB light since they can get pretty pricey, and since they need to be changed every six months. Here’s an 18”, along with a fixture that could be used, but obviously with a longer tank you’ll need a longer size: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-t8-reptisun-100-uvb/dp/126590 https://www.amazon.com/GE-Fluorescent-Included-Workbench-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW again, I usually stay away from reptile brands for things such as fixtures because the cheaper version works better and lasts longer. The T8 bulb needs to be hooked into the tank, which I use zip ties to the lid but Velcro to the side also works, as long as it’s 12” away from the basking area

Heat lamp with dimmer: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-clamp-lamp-dimmer-85-in/dp/129140

Pack of 90w flood lights (make sure they’re halogen, not LED): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-90-Watt-PAR38-Halogen-Indoor-Outdoor-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-466268/205541724

Digital temp gun: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Light timer for both lights: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG

Vet bills and fecal tests can be pricey as well, depending on where you live. My last vet appointment with mine, which did include a test for parasites, cost around $300

While I don’t know how much I’ve spent on my beardie, I can safely estimate it’s $700+, give or take a bit. One of the most expensive is buying the greens and bugs for him. I’m growing a garden to feed him but since it’s not ready yet, I have to constantly buy him collards, turnip and mustard greens, along with various fruits and veggies which can go bad very quickly. I’m in the process of looking into buying his superworms online where you can get a better deal, but at the moment I’m paying 100 for $10 at my local exotic pet shop, which he goes through quickly.

I don’t know how old you are, but if you say you’re not old enough to properly take care of a reptile I would wait a few years or so until you get another. Bearded dragons, while more of a beginner reptile than others, still require a lot of time and effort to make sure they stay healthy. I would recommend doing a lot research throughout the next few months (look at multiple sources, don’t just listen to people at a pet store because often they don’t know what they’re talking about), and if possible, perhaps slowly start gathering the needed supplies in order to properly care for one

I hope I covered everything since reddit refreshed and deleted my first response before I finished, but if you have any more questions you can always message me (:

Reference material. I mentioned www.anapsid.org earlier. Here is an awesome
awesome awesome book. Please buy it.

Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner's Manual
by James W., III Hatfield
Link: http://amzn.com/1883463505

Iguanas for Dummies is written by Melissa Kaplan, the author of the
anapsid.org site. It's a good book, too.


Handling. I neglected to mention socializing.

When iguanas are young they are cute and bright green and timid and have huge
eyes and people fall in love with them. Then they become iguana teenagers and
reach the "Free to a Good Home" stage.

Iguanas are not domesticated--they are wild animals. They're not evolved to
live with humans. But they can be taught.

Socializing requires careful attention to touching and holding and lifting your
iguana. There are a lot better references to iguana socializing out there than
me. But socializing is very, very important! Getting your iguana used to human
touch and human presence will save you a lot of grief (and bandages and scars)
later.

Not to prattle on too long but gentle touching at first (petting) then move up
to start lifting. Don't pull from his/her branch! Lift by gently sliding hand
under the head toward the tail. Carry holding iguana on your forarm, head in
your hand, tail supported by your armpit.


Read the books, read the Melissa Kaplan website. And you'll have a great housemate for 20+ years. :-)

Iguanas are like cats. But with more attitude.

Feed as many appropriate staple insects (crickets, roaches, phoenix worms, or silkworms) as he will eat in 10 minutes 2-3 times per day (3 under ~4 months, 2 until ~1 year, varies after.) This may be up to 100+ insects per day. Good staple veggies are collard/mustard greens and squash, kale is ok but not a good staple. Leave fresh veggies every day, babies/juveniles eat mostly insects, adults eat mostly veggies.

You need a heat light (can be a normal incandescent/halogen bulb) that gets the basking spot to 100-110f. Use a digital thermometer to measure temps, the analog ones are inaccurate. You also need a UVB light, it's very important.

Proper UVB light is essential. The best and only guaranteed good UVB lights are either Mercury vapor bulbs (heat and UVB combined) or fluorescent tubes. Tubes are used much more often and are cheaper and better for beardies. You'll want either a reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% tube, roughly 2/3 the length of the enclosure. They come in two sizes, t5 and t8, t5 is newer, stronger, and better. It gives you more options for where to place it and is lasts 12 months instead of 6 so it's cheaper. Basically, you want either a reptisun 10.0 t5 or Arcadia 12% t5. Make sure to research your bulb and fixture (t5 vs t8, under or over screen, etc.) to determine exactly how far away from the basking spot it should be.

Heat lamp fixtures are easy to find, but for uvb it's a bit tougher. This is what I use for my 22" t5: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_as8FHHQMbU3iD

More important than the heating pad is the thermostat. A thermostat regulates the temperature of a heat source. This thermostat is kind of expensive, but it's a "set it & forget it" thermostat. Set it to 90F, it'll warm up to 92, turn itself off, wait till it cools off to 88, and turn itself back on up to 92, and so on. All heating pads are incredibly unreliable. They can get up to 140F (my own heating pads have done this). Your reptile can't feel it until it's too late & they have burns. So I'd recommend any heating pad, this one is fine, and then a high-quality thermostat like the one I linked. You're also going to want a second thermometer to make sure your thermostat is reading correctly. This is my favorite (cheap) kind. Investing in an infrared thermometer in the long term is your best bet though! Hope this helps :)

I do agree those temps seem a bit low. I keep my geckos at 68-72 during the winter and they do just fine, but anything below 65 I'd be concerned about for an extended period of time. I suggest against using any red bulbs, as reptiles do in fact see red light. Your two best options for night-time heating are a Ceramic Heat Emitter and a Heating Pad. Both of these should be regulated with a thermostat (something like this is a good inexpensive option). 12x12x18s are too small for adults, so just be careful with any heating elements because, while crested geckos can self-regulate by moving away when they get too warm, if the cage is too small there might not be anywhere to go. I'm glad to hear you are planning on a bigger cage for her.

Just because they've been together doesn't mean they really like being together. Reptiles are generally solitary and are happiest when they have their own space. You could put the geckos in their own sterilite tote bins and stack them on top of each other in a rack to save space.

I've been using the Intellitemp heat mats from Big Apple Herp. A lot of people would say they're cheap and don't like BAH, but at least the heatpads have been working for me. I have 6 of them. I use the 14x8inch (20 watt) heat mat for my 20g long aquariums. They're $25 each, sometimes they go on sale. One important thing you need for heatmats is a thermostat to control the temperature. You want to pick up a digital thermostat. If you must get a cheap one, you can go for a Hydrofarm, but know that it works by turning the power on and off to the heat pad in order to achieve the desired temperature, usually you get a temperature swing of about 5 degrees F or so. On/off thermostats may fail in the on position, meaning the heat pad won't shut off when it gets to the desired temperature and you run the risk of burns. There are better thermostats on the markets such as Vivarium Electronics and Herpstats. These thermostats are more expensive, but they are more accurate, have more safety features and will not fail in the on position. They work by controlling how much power is being provided to the heat mat, so the mat is constantly running at a set temperature. They will likely last much longer than a cheaper thermostat will. I got a cheap thermostat at first, then upgraded to a Herpstat before too long, so it sometimes makes sense to just go for the better one right away.

I have a female sand boa that I love to bits and pieces. Her care could not be more simple. I have a 10 gal tank with a uth on a hydrofarm Thermostat set to 90F. During the cold months she has a 40 watt lamp during the day as well. She is 9 months old, weighs 38 grams, and has never missed a meal. She eats like a piggy. She has also never struck at anyone or acted aggressive in any way. I would definitely recommend sand boas to first time owners!

I'd get rid of the lamp, bright light can hurt their eyes. The under tank heater should be enough for heat, and whatever the lighting in the room is should be enough for light.

You'll need a thermometer that measures ground heat, digital thermometers with probes are best. You can also use a temp gun.

You're also gonna need more hides for him to make him feel more secure, at least one on the cool side and one on the hot.

Check out /r/leopardgeckos too, they have tons of helpful information and a lot of cute gecko pictures.

Many geckos won't accept dead prey, and even if they do, it's a very poor long-term diet. Live insects have a higher moisture content, which is important because leos get most of their moisture from their diet. Also, the insects can be gut-loaded before feeding by giving them fresh vegetables or a commercially-produced gut-loading food. This makes them much more nutritious.

Live mealworms are a decent staple diet and are very easy to keep and feed. Leopard geckos are exclusively insectivores, so if you really can't deal with insects it might be best to consider rehoming him with someone who will be able to properly feed him.

Also, the heat mat in the enclosure must be hooked up to a thermostat, like this one, to control the temperature. I'd also suggest picking up and infrared temperature gun so that you can make sure everything is within the right range.

So the first thing I would do is to ditch the sand. You can use paper towels for now and get ceramic tiles cut to size whenever you have the time.

The cage is a bit small (looks like a ten gallon?), which won't kill him, but he would appreciate the walking space of a twenty gallon long tank.

Heat lamps are hard to regulate and break often. A good long term solution would be to buy an under tank heater and a thermostat to control it. You absolutely must have a thermostat with a heat mat, or your lizard would be in danger of a serious burn! I've never had either a heat mat or a thermostat break and I've been using them for years.

This is a great cheap thermostat : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z51mybBXCYQKR

And a heat pad: Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D71mybNN28CJW

If you choose to order them I would toss in a couple digital thermometers with probes to monitor the hot and cold sides. They should be super cheap

I would also add another hide on the cool side. You can use anything from a small cardboard box to a fancy reptile hide. If he has problems shedding in the future you can also add in a "humid hide" which in this case would be a small Tupperware with a hole cut out and damp moss or paper towels in it

I read a fantastic book from first hand care taking while on a deployment a few years ago. I don't own an iguana, but still enjoyed the read.

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Iguana-Ultimate-Owners-Manual/dp/1883463505/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1372717553&sr=1-3&keywords=iguana

I use these programmable timers for my iguana and turtle lamps. Each timer can control 2 devices and support 8 daily on/off cycles. Great for fish tanks, too FYI.

How big is your enclosure? 250 watts is serious power for an enclosure. I run total of 200 watts in my 5x4x5 enclosure in the winter and that is enough. Enclosure must be sealed for it to work, but CWD enclosure must be sealed anyways. For fixtures the most economical is to use porcelain Leviton fixture. They are very reliable and withstand all you can throw at them.

Halogen lights on dimmer work nice for a day heat, paired with some t5 UVB. Ceramic bulbs on pulse-proportional thermostat work good for night heat.

For starters, yes, please go to an exotic vet who's familiar with beardies.

Can you take a photo of your enclosure? What's his basking temperature like? Do you have a temperature gun? How close is the bulb to his head? What sort of bulbs are you using? And What do you have for substrate?

Go light on the spinach, this is a good place to start http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm. I keep a list of foods in my phone for shopping cause my memory is terrible. Its not a big deal if they miss a day of eating, just don't make it a habit. You need the correct kind of UV lamp iguana needs are different than a lot of other reptiles. https://www.amazon.com/ReptiSun-5-0-UVB-Fluorescent-Bulb/dp/B000255OS6/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4602TGDXDE514QDE3HBK with https://www.amazon.com/GE-18-Inch-Fluorescent-Fixture-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4602TGDXDE514QDE3HBK was the cheapest I found, change them about once a year. If you get this lamp remove the clear plastic covering the light. I use blended berry tums as a calcium supplement (vet recommended) no phosphorus, vit A and D3, this is what you want for iguanas. collared greens and dandelion greens are great staples so if you in an area where gardening is easy and have a yard order some seeds, they are cheap and dandelions take very little care. Organic soils and not insecticide or chemicals. It will help with money. If and when you need a vet you might have trouble finding a reptile vet (or exotics vet). This site is wonderful for health issues, http://www.anapsid.org/, this way you go to the vet having a good idea of what is going on already. Its a lot of information but once you have it down its not hard.

I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did the salt test and it's only 4% too high. I thought it was busted at first when I put it into my humid enclosure, but it turns out the humidity was just 96% or higher (it was just displaying "HIGH"). It does update pretty well though. I let the enclosure dry out a little bit over a few days due to oversaturating the substrate and the percentage dropped to display an actual number.

If it's that insanely cold inside I would use a 100w CHE in conjunction with 11 inch heat tape spanning the length of the bottom of the tank, possibly two strips side by side, controlled by a reptile thermostat with a temperature probe taped down in the tank directly over the heat tape on the bottom. That way you have a safe sustained temperature throughout the tank and the CHE can be used by your bearded dragon to effectively thermoregulate himself without needing to worry about cold spots.

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Heat Tape

Heat Tape Power Cord

Thermostat for the Heat Tape

Digital Thermostat

UTH


That's what I run for all my collection. I'll soon breakdown and get flexwatt, but for now, this has worked great. I have this setup on a brazilian rainbow boa, red tail boa, albino red tail boa and three ball pythons.


edit: you could also just add a heat lamp to bring up the ambient temps. The snake only requires a hot spot of around 90, then ambient temps around 80 F is what I do. Though my reptile room is set to 80 F.

Thermostats are different from thermometers. Thermostats regulate the temperature while thermometers measure it. Non-digital thermometers are also known to be inaccurate. A thermostat like this would be perfect: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-40-108%C2%B0F-Thermostat-Controller-Germination/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermostat+seed&qid=1562452127&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I'm guessing the substrate is eco earth (thats what it appears to be), which is good... water bowl size is good although takes up quite a bit of the enclosure. The hide appears to be mostly enclosed so thats good... however theres only one hide so you'll need another one for a cool hide if you use that as a warm hide. Basically you want at least two hides, warm hide and a cool hide... and if you can fit a third one in then that would be your humid hide. I'd also recommend getting more foliage so the snake feels safer. I'd get the heat lamps out of there and get a large heat mat to go underneath the warm hide and then a thermostat to control the temperature. This is the thermostat I use, it seems to work very well.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then this is the heat mat I use for two of my animals, and both seem to work so far.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VQ72RI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll also want to get new temperature and humidity gauges, stick on ones don't work. This is the one I use, works great so far.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY3X7P9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then if you want you can also get a temp gun, which tells you the surface temperature. I like using it a lot, and sometimes rely more on it than my temperature gauges.

As far as humidity and temperatures go, the hot spot should be about 90-95, cool side around 70-80 or so, I would make sure temps dont drop below 70. And humidity about 50%, you can boost it up to 70% during sheds but I wouldn't go over that.

If temps aren't getting where they need to be you can use a low wattage CHE, also known as a ceramic heat emitter to heat the tank as additional heat (You'll still need a heat mat).

In all honesty if you could get more substrate (bedding) you could put even more hides in. In my BP's 20 gallon she has a total of 5 hides as her substrate is filled half way so I can put hides underneath the substrate and then put cork bark to keep the substrate raised. She has probably about two humid hides, one underneath the water bowl, one on the opposite side which is a standard hide, and then underneath that in the substrate she has a warm hide which is connected to a "tunnel" system of cork bark. https://imgur.com/a/h6ERs6Y

you really need to be using one, this is the most important part of a reptiles cage that has heating. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S this is about the cheapest one that works really well. if you want something more expensive but is made for professional keepers anything off this website is great http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 . this is what can happen if you leave a heating element unregulated by a heating pad https://www.google.com/search?q=reptile+heat+mat+burn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjklM2tuPDTAhXBPiYKHcDlCUAQ_AUICygC&biw=1242&bih=573#imgrc=GW4T9DpzqKyZRM: . its either thermostat or no heat

I actually use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MLIKCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_v2bbCbYFND9KF

They're computer fan covers, but they're strong, heat resistant, and with close enough gaps to prevent many (not all) animals from getting out. For really small species, you can use aluminum window screen mesh behind them.

I use this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462332524&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=temp+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41nDmmWRKKL&ref=plSrch so they aren't expensive and they could save you money in the long run depending on how many animals you are keeping. You don't need a thermometer for each individual enclosure which is nice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

This works great for me.

Unfortunately a thermometer still won't give you surface temperature, no matter how close it is. So the surface temp is likely hotter than what you just said. A temp gun is necessary if you want to be sure of your basking temps, and they're especially important for reptiles like uros. This one is cheap and effective. I have multiple.

Get yourself a heat mat and a cheaper thermostat. I use these when I need a cheaper option. I also have a second probe thermometer to monitor the temps since I don't completely trust the cheaper thermostats. But I've used them for years without any issues, so I haven't found anything to justify my distrust. I just like to be doubly sure. (:

For the shedding, the most important thing to help your leo is a humid hide. My girls get enclosed hides (something with a base and only a hole entrance) with sphagnum moss. I mist the moss until damp every other day or as needed. I live in a very arid environment (usually around 20%) and don't do anything else for my leos humidity wise except their hides. They very rarely have any shedding issues. One girl actually came to me with horrible chronic shed problems (she lost 3/4ths of her poor little toes to stuck shed), but with her humid hide she's not had any problems since!

If you don't have one already, there are guides to making your own humid hide. You can get a tupperware container with a lid, place it on it's top and cut a hole in the side where the leo can get in. Stuff it with a bit of moss and mist it and there you go! There are hides sold specifically for humidity, and I find my girls prefer the dark hides to the clear tupperware, but it sounds like your boy needs something ASAP.

Edit: to answer your question more. I only step in for stuck shed with my leos if it has been a few days. Once in a while they will have some left over for awhile after a shed, but they usually take care of it themselves. Toes and noses can be tricky and can take some time. If they have a humid hide they'll use it to help soften the remains. When I do have to step in, I use a wet cotton swab after a soak. You can try dripping water onto his nose to soften the shed first.

Using a mixture of coconut fiber and this moss I can't recall the name of. Begins with an Sphagnum moss. Anyway, you can't see it but in the cave there I have a dish of water for him to soak in that I will change daily. I need to get a spray bottle to mist the enclosure, though I have been considering a fog machine to keep the humidity high. But what I am wondering is what should I get for monitoring the temps and humidity in the tank? I am familiar with aquarium stuff but not really terrarium stuff. I was looking on amazon at stuff to buy, and wondering if I should go digital or not. Any recommendations?

I use this with the standard zoo med or exoterra UTHs on three leopard gecko tanks and two snake tanks and have had good temperature accuracy with it

that's what thermostats are for! you can get one here for a decent price. and here's how to set it up. (-:

This is the one I use for my reptiles

Thinking of getting Hydrofarm really common in the hobby
http://www.amazon.ca/Jumpstart-Digital-Thermostat-Heat-Mats/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1418135521&sr=8-4&keywords=hydrofarm

I would suggest a thermostat you just plug your mat into it put the probe in the tank above the heat mat and set the temperature

I use the Jump Start thermostat. Hovers around $25-$35 in the US.

I'm not a snake guy so I'm not sure if it's needed for a corn snake, but are you going to use a substrate/bedding or are you just going to use paper towels?

Oh those little round plastic ones? If so, there are a couple different problems here I think -


Those plastic dial thermometer/hygrometers are pretty much just garbage. If you want to get a better reading of what ambient temps are, I would look into digital ones like Acurite. This is the one I use which comes with a probe that can stick on to the side of the tank. There's also one that's like $11-$12 but it just sits on the bottom.


Another problem is UTH are designed to only heat the direct surface above where they're positioned, so they don't have much of an impact on the ambient temp. The best way to measure a UTH's heat is with a temperature gun, which takes a reading directly from the surface. They're about $20 on Amazon. If you used a temp gun on that UTH's surface you'd likely be surprised by how hot it is; actually, a UTH unregulated by a thermostat can get dangerously hot for an animal to touch.


What you might want to look into is a ceramic heat emitter; it's an unlighted bulb that screws into a heat lamp and it'll heat the air temperatures below the lamp. You'd probably have to experiment with different wattages or get a dimmer for it to get temps around what you'd want