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1) I would recommend a heavy, no-nonsense machine that will take abuse. I would avoid a computerized machine and spring for a mechanical machine if possible (it won't have as many features, but they tend to be tougher machines that don't ever become outdated). If you buy a mechanical machine with metal (rather than plastic) components inside, it should last you the rest of your life.

My favorite brand is Janome. The brand I've heard the worst about is the Singer (excluding antique Singers, which are apparently really good). Brand matters, so do your research.

My sewing machine is the Janome MyExcel 18W (the Australian equivalent of the HD3000). It's pricier than some starting machines, but I think this is a really solid general purpose sewing machine for beginners, because it's very basic to use and will stand up the maltreatment of the novice. But it's also great for advanced users because of the huge range of attachments that Janome makes. If you got this machine for making clothes, I don't think you'd ever need to replace it (unless you get into machine embroidery or something similarly niche).

It's also very good for working on thick fabrics or lots of layers (as happens when you sew across seams), because the presser foot lifts higher than most machines and because the motor is a beast. And there are lots of little things that just make it nicer to use. It's very quick and easy to switch between feet; it has convenient storage compartments and a big cheat sheet at the top (so you don't have to constantly refer to the manual); the bobbin is SUPER easy to replace; you can observe the bobbin while sewing (bobbin misbehavior is the source of 80% of sewing mishaps, in my experience); and it requires less oiling and maintenance than most machines.

Other beginner machines I've used and loved have been an old Elnita (by Elna, a reputable brand) and an old mechanical Brother (also a reputable brand)—but my Janome is better for my purposes, since I'm often working with difficult materials like canvas, denim, and stretchy fabrics.

If you're looking to save money, buying used is a really great idea. Sewing machine technology is pretty mature, so you can buy 20+ year old machines that do almost everything a modern machine does. Check out garage sales; really great machines often get sold for almost no money, because the people selling them often aren't the same people who bought/used them and they don't know their value. (Note that garage sales are also a great source for dirt cheap sewing supplies: zippers, buttons, thread, elastic, tape measures, cutting mats, etc. You can save hundreds of dollars rather easily.)

2) I self-taught when I was 16, before YouTube existed. I wanted to make myself a costume (I tend to be a little too ambitious with first projects...), so I saved up for a machine and jumped right in. I mostly relied on the manual and experimentation to figure it out—my stitches came out ugly and tangled, but the costume came together and held up perfectly.

It's a bit frustrating to get the hang of machine sewing (dealing with thread tension problems, etc.), but YouTube is a fantastic resource, especially for achieving different effects (like blind hems and whatnot). It doesn't take genius to teach yourself to sew, but it does take stubbornness.

I would recommend learning hand sewing as well. It is a useful complement to machine sewing when you just can't get the machine to get in where you need it (like hard-to-reach corners, around lots of buttons, etc.).

4) Plan your projects carefully! That's the hardest part. You'll want to think about how all the pieces will fit together, the order you'll put them together, etc.

If you're wanting to design your own clothes or costumes from the ground up, you'll want to practice with patterns first to get the hang of them. You might also want to take apart some clothes (ones you don't mind destroying!) and practice remaking them with another fabric.

6) What types of clothes, and what kinds of alterations do you need to make? I do a lot of clothing alterations on thrift store finds. I have found that it's very easy to do things like shorten pants legs, make pants legs slimmer, take T-shirts in at the sides, or add triangles of fabric to a shirt to make the hips bigger. But I find it very annoying to do things like take jeans in at the waist (due the thickness of the denim and all the belt loops, pockets, and zipper that must be worked around).

I have an embroidery machine! With a price point of $2000 I would recommend the Viking Designer Jade 35 It has an MSRP of $1,799. Go into your local Viking store and see what kind of offers are going on. You just missed a 25% off sale that happened in November, and October had a 50% off trade-in machines so you could have gotten a very good deal on something pre-owned then too. I don't know what the December sales will be since I haven't gotten their email yet but that should give you a place to start negotiating- and you should negotiate. Viking stores operate on commission so no one wants to lose a sale if they can possibly help it. They really want to be moving these larger priced machines, especially at the holidays. Be clear in what you want and don't hesitate to press for having to get a manager's approval on a lower price. You should never be paying full price.

Software! If you have an embroidery machine, you need software for it. Embroidery software can be heinously expensive and very complicated. The Jade apparently comes with an 'Intro' version of their software for free but Viking stores will offer you their proprietary software for around $2000+. If your mother is moderately competent at learning how to navigate software on her own and wants to customize her designs at all then I would really recommend getting Embird It's a third party software and you can purchase it in individual modules to customize what she wants to do. I personally recommend the $164 basic program and Iconizer $20 to start with.

The basic program will let her resize (though you don't really want to resize a design more or less than 10% of it's original size or things go wonky), edit designs, split out pieces, convert from one file type to another, etc. Iconizer will let her open a folder with all of her embroidery designs and see what the designs look like without opening them up- it's a great QoL upgrade. My guess is that after that, she'd probably like the Font Engine upgrade. It is, however, another $145 and can take any computer font and digitize it for embroidery... more or less. Unless she really likes working on the computer and tweeking things in software, or needs to embroidery a lot of words onto things, I don't actually recommend the Font Engine for starting embroiderers. You can buy fonts for <$20 that are designed and tested to work.

In total... I bet you could get the machine negotiated down to $1500 or $1600 and maybe get them to throw in the small 120x120mm for free. + $180 for software and you're coming in under your $2000 budget. If you're feeling extra affectionate towards your mother, throw in some bulk stabilizer and Embroidery thread! (I do like that Mettler polysheen brand, I've always gotten great results from it with minimal thread breakage.) and you're probably still pretty close to or under budget depending on taxes.

Congratulations! You’ve chosen a wonderful and practical hobby! I took sewing classes in my early teens and did nothing until years later, when I wanted to make a Halloween costume. Thank goodness for the internet! I’ve found YouTube to be an invaluable tool. If you’re old school, your local library has books on sewing.

If you’re serious about sewing, you’ll need a machine. I love my Brother cs6000i! It is priced well and comes with a lot of accessories (including a walking foot!), is very user friendly, and has great reviews! You don’t need a new machine, you can purchase a used one and be just fine. Try yard sales or thrift shops. Most companies have downloadable manuals for their machines if your used one does not come with one.

Other supplies you’ll need:

1. Thread
   
2. Needles, both machine and hand sewing
   
3. Scissors; purchase two pairs. A nice pair that you only use to cut fabric, and a cheap pair for cutting out patterns, stabilizers, interfacing, zippers, etc.
   
4. A seam ripper, although you might hear it called a stitch picker
   
5. Chalk or washable fabric marker
   
6. Measuring tape
   
7. Pins, a pin cushion to hold them
   
8. Seam gauge
   
9. Iron and ironing board
   
   Except for the actual machine, most of the items you’ll actually need are relatively inexpensive. Things just add up when you get to the fabric store/ sewing center and want to buy everything!
   
   
   Depending on what you sew, the following items are helpful:
   
10. Thimble
    
11. Needle threader
    
12. Thread snips
    
13. Tracing paper and wheel
    
14. Pinking shears
    
15. Cutting mat and rotary cutter
    
16. Fabric glue
    
17. Fray check or similar
    
    
    Don’t go out and purchase a bunch of notions right away. Buy your buttons, zippers, ribbons, etc. as you need them for each project.
    
    You might try some simple craft projects like this pouch to accustom yourself to sewing and your machine before you tackle clothes. You can search YouTube for project ideas and tutorials. Some of my favorite sewing channels on YouTube are:
    
    
    
18. Made to sew
    
19. So sew easy
    
20. The Crafty Gemini
    
    
    Hope these help and happy sewing!

Back darts won't solve every fitting problem, but if you want to try, here's how to do it. You will need:

• Pins
  
  
• Tailor's chalk (clay, not wax) and do a test first to make sure it comes off. Use white: darker colors may not come out. Here's one brand.
  
  
• A French Curve
  
  
• A ruler, preferrably, a clear one.
  
  
• A needle with white thread
  
  
• A sewing machine with thread matching the fabric
  
  
• An iron
  
  
  Put the shirt on the person. On one side, locate the area beneath the shoulder blade (look at the photos you posted). Pinch. That will be the end or "vanishing point" of the dart. Move down about 1/2" and pin. Keep pinning, creating a fold that contours to the body and removes the excess fabric.
  
  Some darts are "diamond" or "fish-eye" darts. They are double-pointed. If that looks good, begin to taper the fold back into another point. This vertical dart is usually somewhat symmetrical. Another choice is to continue the straight fold down to the end. You will have to pick out the hem.
  
  If the person is pretty symmetrical, you only need to do one side, but you can do both.
  
  With the chalk, lightly trace in between the track of pins.
  
  Remove the pins, take the chalk and connect the dots into a neat, sewable line using the curve and ruler.
  
  Repin, baste the dart and check the fit.
  
  If it looks good, transfer the dart to the other side with tailor tacks, or you might be able to fold the unpinned part of the shirt over the basted dart and trace over the stitches with chalk.
  
  Baste the other dart and check the fit. If adjustments are needed, take out the stitches and follow the steps described above until the fit is good. You may need to do this several times.
  
  If you've picked diagonal darts, sew the dart by starting in the center and sewing to one end. Then return to the center, overlap the stitches or make them adjacent by a stitch or two and sew to the other end. Press.
  
  If you've pick a dart with one point, sew from the bottom of the shirt to the point and tie off the dart. Press, then resew the hem.
  
  
  
  If darts don't work, you might try single or double pleats. Remember that not every fitting problem is solvable by adding darts or pleats. Sometimes they can throw other things off.

Pattern drafting and clothing sketches are two entirely different things. I didn’t get much out of school in terms of sketching but some books that helped me were Illustration Techniques - Takamura Fashion Illustrator - Morris and this one which was a textbook of ours Fashion Drawing - Bryant. When it comes to flat pattern making, “art” and “drawing” have little to do with it, it’s measurements, rulers, curves, tracing paper (medical doctors office paper is my favourite), cardstock “oaktag” paper, mechanical pencils and the foggy kind of cello tape you can draw on. Basically you learn to make a bland sheath to fit the body first (“block”) then you can learn to manipulate the block into different pieces and designs and there you go, you’re drafting. It’s the whole reason I’m in school right now and if they had it on YouTube I would never have bothered enrolling.
The best books for that are first and foremost Patternmaking for Fashion Design - Joseph-Armstrong, Patterncutting/Patternmaking - Chunman-Lo and I’m looking forward to getting The Costume Technician's Handbook (3rd Edition) - Ingham/Covey which a classmate said is great for blockmaking, and Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear - Aldrich which I’ve been told is a staple.
As far as editions, the later ones of Patternmaking for Fashion Design are better for basic block making and they have way more than the earlier ones, and the girl who put me on to the Technician’s book said the 3rd is essential. The rest I wouldn’t really know because I haven’t used them extensively. Afaik Chunman-Lo’s book has only one edition.
There’s also Fitting and Pattern Alteration- Liechty/Rasbrand/Pottberg-Steineckert. We haven’t used it yet but it’s on the curriculum.
With these resources either bought or borrowed from the library you’ll learn everything a fashion student learns. As far as sketching goes, YouTubers are out there and can help, and practice makes perfect.
I hope this helps. Post progress photos so we can see how well you’re doing! Good luck.

There is already a good bit of advice here. I am not a woman, so I apologize if I'm not as knowledgeable about women's clothing or about petite sizing; I am by no means a dressmaker or tailor, but I have done this kind of thing several times before. Patterns usually have cut lines for lengthening or shortening. If the pattern is bilaterally symmetrical, you can usually make a pattern smaller all around by altering it according to your measurements. It is helpful and much easier if you have pattern drafting rulers for this. The dress in your picture looks to me like the "bodice" would be constructed with two front panels and a back panel, and one long panel gathered and attached to the "bodice". You have side seams to work with, so you can take in the pattern at the side seams and shorten the pattern for your appropriate height. You need to measure yourself for the following:

• Waist - Measure at the smallest circumference of your natural waist, usually just above the belly button.
  
• Back Waist Length - Measure from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline.
  
• Bust - Measure around the fullest part of the bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
  
• Hips - Measure at the widest part of your hips.
  
• Armhole depth - Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit. I find that you can easily get this measurement from a dress or shirt that fits you well.
  
  If you know your waist is 3 inches smaller than the smallest size on the pattern, adjust the pattern so that the waist line is 3 inches smaller. Do this by taking equal amounts off of each pattern piece to maintain proportion. In other words, in this example you need to mark your mark new cutlines a half inch inside the printed cut lines of the smallest size. By doing this, you will be shortening the width of each pattern piece by one inch at the waistline. Adjust the pattern the same way for your bust, hips, armholes. Then, connect the dots; this is where your curved pattern rulers may come in handy. Finally, shorten the back and front panels at the indicated place on the pattern, using your back waist length measurement. Shorten the gathered panel by hemming after trying on the dress for fit.
  
  Good luck. I hope I don't lead you astray here, but this has always worked for me.

here is some great info on back stitching which is a great place to start. There are other stitches further down the page.

You’ll want to get some strong thread, like heavy duty, and similar sized needles. Needles come in many sizes and you want the needle to be strong but not too big. Good news is that they’re cheap. You can get a nice variety pack and figure out what works best for you.


Because denim can be so difficult to sew, same for patches, get a thimble, and some thread conditioner. You can use beeswax or a synthetic product. I like sewers aid. Its basically a silicone lubricant that helps the needle move through the fabric. Good luck and have fun!

>As a spoiled daughter

>now that I'm older (18)

I dont know if you just dont realize how you sound, or if you're doing that on purpose. Thanks for the giggles.

Your machine should straight stitch, zigzag stitch. When i started i didnt do anything other than that really. Even today, most of what i do involves that.

Im assuming you know how to use Google and Youtube's search bar. Type in the kind of seam or technique you want.

>4) I have no clue what I'm doing. I only have visions of what I want to make. Anyone have tips?

Hire someone? Start much smaller.. like pillows?

The first thing i assisted sewing with was a Marie antoinette style gown. The second thing i made, I drafted the pattern and sewn myself - It was a playboy bunny suit, drafted by wrapping press and seal around my body. I used google and youtube, just typing what i needed to know as it happened. HOWEVER. Thats a god-awful way to start (press and seal is uncomfortable.)

Get a machine with the basics. Other people can probably tell you better machines, but i got myself this one. I like it, think its fine, i know some people have different opinions.

After that, sew a couple pillows. Thats boring and sucks but whatever do it. Do a couple more projects like that, like aprons or something. Things you can do with cheap fabric that you wont be sad about fucking up.

Get some patterns from McCall that you like. They have basic ones and stuff. Do them. Follow the directions. google questions, if you dont find the answer its probably here. use the search feature first...

Then, after a while of doing patterns, getting used to how patterns work and come together, try and make patterns on your own. Google it.

If you read all that and thought "well sewing pillows sounds boring and im probably good enough to skip that (even though i dont have a machine nor have i stitched a thing before) and McCalls patterns look ugly" then congratulations you're just like how i was and i have no advice for you, because we dont deserve advice or hand-holding. good luck.

I have this Brother CS6000i

I really love it and when I took a sewing class the instructor used this same model as her "traveling machine".

It looks like it also won some Women's choice award for most recommended machine.

Good luck!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JQM1DE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I would go for it. I wish I had made mine. Although yardage of fabric is expensive and companies that sell tons of dresses using white silks and chiffons have cost savings that you won’t find most likely. my dress was in the $500 range and I couldn’t have made it for that.

I would make the dress first in a navy or black and get a good practice round. I would use French seams on the bodice and skirt side seams. I think putting some grosgrain ribbon inside the waist will help support the weight of the skirt and keep it looking fresh and sitting right on your waist. You could use some cool fabric for the top layer of the bodice, like something vintage and have it be your “something old”

The hem will be really tricky. I used to work in bridal alterations and we used this chalk marker for hems. I think you could probably return it to amazon or resell it when you were finished. Otherwise you’ll have someone pinning for hours and probably not be straight at the end of the day.

If you can’t find a sewing pattern that works, it would be pretty simple to draft yourself using measurements.

I have a janome derby portable machine.
Janome Pink Lightning Basic, Easy-to-Use, 10-Stitch Portable, Compact Sewing Machine with Free Arm only 5 pounds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H34GP6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nPH-AbH5TR174
if storage size and weight is what's most important to you, I'd recommend this one.

I've also used a vintage singer featherweight and a modern singer mini machine. The janome derby is better.

However, a basic full size machine will give you more value. This is a perfect first machine, and not much more than a good portable machine.
Brother XM2701 Lightweight, Full-Featured Sewing Machine with 27 Stitches, 1-Step Auto-Size Buttonholer, 6 Sewing Feet, and Instructional DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JBKVN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qUH-Ab7N1DNA4

There are professional ways and means to copy garments. Claire Sheaffer's book "High Fashion Sewing Secrets From the World's Best Designers" has a chapter on how this is done. It's an oldie (and a goodie!) and should be available on Amazon. Yes , it is! https://www.amazon.ca/Fashion-Sewing-Secrets-Worlds-Designers/dp/1579544150/ref=pd_sbs_14_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1579544150&pd_rd_r=35a7ff71-7152-11e9-88ae-891106fe0638&pd_rd_w=5ZWsG&pd_rd_wg=DvgdJ&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=3XCBGDYGENZN5DBSWS7G&psc=1&refRID=3XCBGDYGENZN5DBSWS7G

You will want some version of a crinoline hoop slip.

Search this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/MISSVEIL-Crinoline-Petticoat-Underskirt-Wedding/dp/B07MN9XFRK/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=hoop+slip&qid=1566493123&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWlFRVjdDRzI1UVVIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODMwNTE3MUhOQVZEV0pNMUc2RSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQwMzMwMVFRUU5GSkxLUlVMTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Sorry for the long link. If you get a slip with the horsehair hoop or hoops closer to the bottom you will get a look similar to the picture you have. If you get hoops closer to your waist, it will poof out from up there. Hope that helps

you should be able to use any low shank kit, you can buy lots on amazon for cheap! something like this should be good https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Sewing-Machine-Presser-Walking/dp/B01N2P3ILT/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=presser+foot+kit&qid=1565032783&s=gateway&sr=8-13

I also suggest this book, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/0325004773/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f181Bb4P31STW.
I used it all through college and now. Its pretty straight forward to making simple body blocks and other cool stuff.
The only thing is that you'll need a master list of your measurements to refer to. There is math involved.

That was my budget for my first (and current) sewing machine and I chose this one from brothers . So far it has been working very well and is easy to figure out quickly. I’ve use it mostly to make doll beds/clothes and pillowcases. I had some issues making button holes though that I haven’t gone back to.