(Part 2) Best products from r/simracing

What system you play on is beside the point. Let's see what we can plan out for you.

I'm basing this off of your other comment's projected budget, $500 - $1000.

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First and foremost, your wheel and pedals. Whether you start with your cockpit/wheelstand or wheel is mostly up to preference, but I'd start with a wheel first, since a wheel clamped to a desk with pedals on a floor is the minimum of simracing, whilst a rig with no wheel is just a glorified gaming seat. Plus, what you get first sets the budget of what comes after it, and I wouldn't prioritize an expensive rig over a good wheel.

Anyway, where you go from here pretty much depends on how much you're looking to spend. If your budget is $500 - $1000 and you're looking to get a whole setup going, I'd keep the wheel+pedal spending to $500 or less. This will leave you with a decent amount of wiggle room for rigs and accessories. All of the suggested wheels are compatible with Xbox One.

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Wheels and Pedals

• Thrustmaster TMX
  
  A budget wheel if there ever was one. It's by no means a bad wheel, for $200. It has reasonably strong FFB and similar build to its more expensive counterpart, the TX. Though with a brushed motor and belt-gear hybrid system, it's not as strong nor as smooth as the TX. As someone who's tried its PlayStation counterpart (the T150, basically the same base with a slightly different rim), I'd say it's 75% the quality for 50% the price. If you're on a strict budget and know you'll be on one for a while, it's a pretty good deal.
  
  ^(NOTE: As of writing this, it's currently on sale for $160!)
  
  
• Thrustmaster TMX Pro
  
  If you're planning to drive with an H-gate shifter in the future, then this version of the TMX is a good deal. Instead of the standard 2-pedal Thrustmaster set, it comes with Thrustmater's T3PA Pedals. On top of getting a clutch pedal, it includes a conical brake mod, designed to give more tension to your brake pedal and allow you to better control braking. Plus, in just about any wheel-supported Xbox One game you can map the brake to the clutch and put the conical brake mod behind it, giving your legs more room if you're not using an H-gate shifter. Though if you know you never want to use an H-gate, it might be better value to just get the standard TMX and use a DIY solution for modding the brake.
  
  
• Thrustmaster TX
  
  In case you're wondering, yes, it comes with Ferrari branding as standard. Anyway, this is arguably the best bang-for-your-buck. TX TX's rim is interchangeable, so if you're not a fan of the stock one, you can replace it with another Thrustmaster rim of your choosing. On top of that, its belt-driven FFB system is a bit stronger and considerably smoother than the TMX, not to mention that it's hard mountable (is able to be screwed-in to a rig instead of needing a clamp). While some get the TMX as a starter wheel and upgrade later, this wheel is often people's one-stop for sim racing, since it's just that good.
  
  ^(NOTE: You really picked the best time to get into sim racing, this wheel is only $257 as of writing this! $400 is a decent price for this wheel but the current price is an absolute steal.)
  
  
• Thrustmaster TX Leather Edition
  
  Similarly to the TMX, this is Thrustmaster's step-up version of the wheel; not only does it include a special black version of the T3PA pedals, it also includes a much better rim. While its style is more akin to the TMX, its rim is made from a metal frame, making it feel more solid than the TMX and standard TX plastic rims, and is wrapped in a nice leather instead of rubber. For only $67 more than the standard TX, it's a significant savings over buying the parts separately.
  
  
• Fanatec CSL Elite
  
  This is the premium class of wheels, for the most part. Fanatec's hardware is generally only built from the best of materials and offer some of the best performance, along with being open to Fanatec's wider, more advanced selection of parts and accessories. However, unlike most wheel bases, this is only the wheel base, no rim or pedals included. If you want Fanatec's base CSL offerings for a rim and pedals, the price jumps to about $470, the same price as the TX, but that's only with two pedals. If you want their 3-pedal base instead, the price jumps up to $590, and if you want a GT style rim instead, you're already over $600 with the 2-pedal set, $700 with the 3-pedal set. Fanatec's gear is top-quality, but it comes at a price. Is the bit of extra quality worth the prices that the parts quickly add up to? That's subjective. At the very least, I wouldn't recommend Fanatec Gear if you're on a budget, but maybe consider it for the future.
  
  _____
  
  Rigs and More
  
  There are some Xbox One wheels for you to consider. I hope my explanations made sense, I wanted to make sure to convey the different aspects of each wheel so you could better make a decision.
  
  If you want my personal recommendation though, I'd say the TX, especially since it's on sale. $250 for that base is a great price, it's a near-perfect balance of budget with performance.
  
  Next on the list, a rig. If we're assuming that you're willing to reach towards the upper-end of your budget, then continuing here after you get your wheel is a no-brainer. Having a dedicated place to secure your wheel and mount your pedals makes for a far better experience than sitting at a table, especially if you're playing in front of a TV.
  
  Keep in mind that there are two types of rigs, wheel stands and cockpits. Wheelstands are only meant to mount your wheel and pedals, where you sit is up to you. They're designed to be foldable and easy to carry, making them perfect for playing in front of the living room TV or using in a small apartment. Dedicated cockpits take things to the next level, securing your seat to the wheel and pedals means that you won't have to worry about anything sliding around, and makes things more comfortable overall.
  
  As much as I want to continue though, there are many, many great options to choose from and reddit has a length limit on comments. For more information on building your rig, you can check out the r/Simracing Buyer's Guide in the wiki. It includes everything wheels and rigs to accessories and monitor mounts.
  
  Cheers, and let me know if you have any questions.

If you're really interested in it, a good book to read is Tune To Win by Carroll Smith. It was written in the 70's so it's a bit dated but still plenty relevant, especially to new drivers/engineers. But if you're studying finance you probably already have more than enough on your plate.

Basically, driving a race car is about managing weight transfer to balance the car around each corner. The more load one corner or end of the car has on it the more grip it has. The driver controls lateral load transfer with the steering wheel and longitudinal load transfer with the gas and brake pedals.

Tuning the suspension is another way to influence how load is directed around the car. For example, if the front springs are very stiff, the front of the car won't squat as low under braking, less weight is transferred forward so the rear of the car has more grip. So that's why if you're struggling with turn-in understeer you might want to soften either the front sprigs or front (low-speed) compression damping. Alternatively you could also soften the rear low-speed rebound damping (take not that when talking about dampers, speed doesn't refer to speed of the car, but of the piston traveling through the fluid in the damper. Think high speed=bumps, low speed=weight transfer).

Anti-roll bars are a bit different since they manage lateral load. They also link suspension systems together, so if you hit a kerb or a bump with the right front wheel, the left front will feel it as well. Very generally, softer=more grip. The book I referenced goes into a lot more detail than I can, but I like to think of it as making that end of the car more malleable. Although I don't think that's entirely technically accurate. It also may be worth noting that when tuning the car, anti-roll bars are the first thing real-world teams play with, and a lot of cars have anti-roll bars adjustable from the cockpit. The team uses it as a sort of guide to lead other larger setup changes.

To your second question, the car can behave differently in different parts of the corner. It might feel great when you turn in (usually at which point the car is slowing-meaning forward weight transfer), but then lose all front grip when you're accelerating out of the corner. This means that you're transferring too much weight to the rear under power, so the solution is to stiffen rear springs or low-speed damper compression. If it happens earlier in the corner, when there is more lateral load, then stiffening the rear anti-roll bar (or the opposite, softening the front) might be a better solution.

This isn't even getting into things like camber/castor/toe, which I don't really understand enough myself. The general rule of thumb is to try to keep the outer/middle/inner tire temps as even as possible. I think it's also common opinion that cars should always have at least a little bit of toe-in. Edit: This video has a good overview.

Your third point is absolutely correct. Race car setup is an unsolvable equation. There are too many interdependent variables for there to ever be an ultimate solution. Add on top of that different driving styles and one setup might work well for one driver and be trash for another. It's more of an art than a precise science.

I hope that helps!

I will not claim it is the best, but I bought this PlaySeat and have been very happy with it.

In my case, I'm using it for VR sim racing with the Vive (and sometimes Oculus Rift).

For me, it is very important that my seating position in the seat closely matches the avatars seating position in the game, in order to really feel "in" the experience, and the Playseat delivers in that regard.

I like the playseat in that it was pretty good quality for the price, holds my wheel and petals and shifters nicely, and is nicely adjustable.

It is a tad bit flimsy in the post that holds up the wheel, but I found I actually like that because it transfers some of the wheel vibrations into the chassis, which while not perfect does add some realism. I added a pair of "butt kickers" to amplify the road and engine feel, and then a giant industrial fan to blow in my face to simulate open cockpit. Picture here

I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.

This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.

The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.

re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.

You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.

For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.

Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.

What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?

If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.

The difference is mainly FFB.

The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.

The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).

I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.

http://imgur.com/XGBMlMc - Ignore the filter, the room is usually dark and my camera phone isn't the best unless it's perfect lighting.

G29 with H shifter

OpenWheeler cockpit

3 Samsung 32inch 1080p TVs. I got a lot of hate on this setup because they're not legit monitors. But I put my buddies monitor next to one of these to try them both and didn't see a difference. (They have game mode) I do play FPS's on them and see no input lag.

Anyway, I love this setup. Originally, I had the wheel on the desk but there was some movement on the entire thing. Once I got the cockpit everything felt 100 times better since the wheel was more secure. I highly recommend getting a stand for the wheel. There are a bunch of cockpits like this, more expensive or cheaper.

That's the whole reason I want the Ferrari F1 wheel, more buttons. This looks good, but it'll technically be a downgrade from my stock RS GT wheel, which is a no-go for me. I just want more buttons on the wheel.

I wish they'd make something like this for their bases.

Sim Racing Hardware:

• Fanatec DD1 Wheel Base $999.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/wheel-bases/podium-wheel-base-dd1-usa.html
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Steering Wheel BMW GT2 $299.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/steering-wheels/clubsport-steering-wheel-bmw-m3-gt2-us.html
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ V 1.5 $199.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/clubsport-shifter-sq-us.html
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Handbrake V1.5 (Since you're interested in dirt/rally racing) $119.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/sim-racing-hardware/clubsport-handbrake-v1-5.html
  
• Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro: https://heusinkveld.com/products/sim-pedals/sim-pedals-pro/?v=7516fd43adaa
  
  ​
  
  Sim Racing Rig:
  
  (both are 80/20-based and 4 Play Racing is the best deal for Americans):
  
  
• 4 Play Racing HD rig: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-RACE-HD-Platform-Rig-Simulator-Cockpit-for-OSW-Open-Sim-Wheel/332849054973?hash=item4d7f5984fd:g:MDEAAOSwwPFZyo7n (aluminum) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/4PLAY-RACING-RACE-HD-Platform-BLACK-Rig-Simulator-Cockpit-for-OSW-Open-Sim-Wheel/332848075954?hash=item4d7f4a94b2:g:MDEAAOSwwPFZyo7n (black)
  
• 4 Play Racing triple monitor stand: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-Triple-Monitor-Stand/332855460882?hash=item4d7fbb4412:g:WzQAAOSwAL9UjoM2 (aluminum) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-Triple-Monitor-Stand-BLACK-Anodized/332848083750?hash=item4d7f4ab326:g:WzQAAOSwAL9UjoM2 (black)
  
  ​
  
  PC:
  
  (some of these prices may have changed)
  
  
• Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro M $98.49: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-ES515PTG_BK-Tempered-Brushed-Plastic/dp/B01LRVHH6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118419&sr=8-4&keywords=phanteks+enthoo+pro
  
• Motherboard ASRock Z270 Extreme 4 LGA 1151 $154.99: https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-Z270-EXTREME4-CrossFireX-Motherboard/dp/B01NBEX0EK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118509&sr=8-1&keywords=asrock+z270+extreme4
  
• CPU (Central Processing Unit) Intel Core i7-7700K $299.99: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1527118533&sr=1-1&keywords=7700k
  
• PSU (Power Supply Unit) EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 $119.99: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0850-XR/dp/B00IKDETOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118566&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+850+g2
  
• Video card / GPU (Graphics Processing Unit) Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti ~$700. Whatever model is in stock (ASUS, Gigabyte, EVGA, MSI are all good). Try to get one with 3 DisplayPort outputs + 1 HDMI output (instead of 2 DisplayPort outputs + 2 HDMI outputs): https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007709%20601294835%20601295933
  
• Memory Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL14 DIMM Desktop Memory (HX421C14FBK2/8): https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2133MHz-Non-ECC-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540805440&sr=1-4&keywords=8gb+ddr4
  
• SSD (Solid State Drive) Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" 500GB 129.99: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118286&sr=8-2&keywords=samsung+850+500gb
  
• Monitors 3x Asus VG278Q 144hz @ $289.00/each: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236821
  
• Speakers Logitech Z506 75 watts 5.1 $74.99: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836121044
  
• Wireless Keyboard/Mouse Logitech K830 Wireless Illuminated $49.99: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Living-Room-Keyboard-Touchpad/dp/B00ZOPVSKW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527119030&sr=1-1&keywords=k830
  
• USB Wifi adapter ANEWKODI 600Mbps Dual Band (2.4G/150Mbps+5G/433Mbps) Wireless USB Wifi Adapter $16.99: https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527121846&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+wifi+adapter
  
  ​
  
  Sims (all below support triple monitors and VR headsets):
  
  
• iRacing ($50 for first year with promo code + any cars/tracks you license)
  
• Dirt Rally (can be found on sale for ~$15)
  
• Assetto Corsa Ultimate Edition (can be found on sale for ~$25)
  
• Project Cars 2 (can be found on sale for ~$25)
  
  ​
  
  Not listed:
  
  
• Windows 10 operating system (you may already have a license)
  
• Seat (I personally think that car seats are much more comfortable and appropriate for sim racing over "racing" seats)
  
• Anything I forgot?

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

I was just going off of Amazon prices when I made my post. To get the T150 with the T3PA pedals you're going to be spending $319, https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Feedback-3-Pedal-Progressive-Resistance-PlayStation/dp/B06XP1JZ53/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1500501698&sr=1-2&keywords=t150+pro . Although after your comment I looked it up and Gamestop does appear to be selling T150 Pro sets for $250. http://www.gamestop.com/accessories/thrustmaster-t150-pro-limited-edition-racing-wheel-only-at-gamestop/131351

For the g29 you're going to be spending $265. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Driving-Force-Racing-PlayStation/dp/B00Z0UWWYC/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1500501761&sr=1-1&keywords=g29

So in that case it just comes down to whichever wheel you prefer. People say the T150 has better feel, I've never used one so I honestly don't know. But I know Logitech has a better reputation when it comes to their wheel's longevity, and their warranty is good for an extra year over the Thrustmaster (once again, if you live in the EU though you're going to be getting a 2 year warranty on both because of their consumer protection laws.) I live in the US though and the 2 year warranty is what really made me go from wanting to buy the T150, to actually buying the g29. If I'm spending that much money on something I want to make sure that it lasts for as long as possible, and the warranty makes sure that at the very least least I'm getting 2 years of trouble free usage out of it. And for real, the g29 really does feel good, I mean the g25/27 was the standard wheel for enthusiasts for years. The technology may be old, but it's tried and tested, and it works well, just not as well as a belt system.

At that pricerange, I believe that that the Fanatec CSL elite would be your best option:
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/bundle/product;bundle_id;153

Should you get into simracing or perhaps prefer a more familiar feeling wheel, you can purchase other steering wheels like this one that can mate to the CSL elite.

I wouldn't go any lower than the Thrustmaster t300rs if you value somewhat familiar feedback:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-playstation-4/dp/B00O8B7D02?th=1

If you enjoy Karting, keep an eye open for these in-development sim titles:
Kartcraft
Kart Racing Pro

For F1, Codemasters 2017 title probably won't be out until much later this year but most F1 fans prefer the F1 mod for the original rFactor (warning: dated graphics and lots of setup) and even the F1 models in Automobilista (also based on rFactor engine). I personally don't play either of these racing modes so it's all hearsay so perhaps someone that plays in an F1 league might be more knowledgeable on the subject.

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

I have the secondary sound card(sound blaster audigy fx) as the default device:
http://imgur.com/KJ5DIEO

I have the hardware setup like you have shown, second sound card -> amp -> transducers.

Trying out the things you suggested:

1: Youtube videos play sound and vibration through the transducers.

2: Without starting simvibe, Assetto corsa both vibrates and plays sound through the transducers.

3: After removing all effects from Assetto Corsa, I still get both sound and vibrations through the transducers:
http://imgur.com/lLUNJ9k


Here is the hardware I am using:

1. Amp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEBZ55A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Transducers:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMH17GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Is there some kind of option in windows or a third party that forces an audio card to play only a certain frequency range? I have heard of low pass filters and crossovers, but I have not found any software that I could use to accomplish this task.

Just buy the t3pa pedals. Which are the t500 pedals but seperate and use those with your T300. If you still have the T300 and broken t500. You can use the pedals of the t500 with the T300 too.

Alternatively you can look at much higher end pedals, but I don't see why you should since you liked the t500's pedals. I recommend you do some more research next time or come here and say you don't like the pedals and ask for a solution :) Since now you blew a load of money which wasn't necessary :/

Tldr : Buy the [T3pa Pro]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVN21IU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458981312&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=T3pa+pro&dpPl=1&dpID=51urgAtTIbL&ref=plSrch) pedals.

This the screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG12DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07916HTWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll also need this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y1IMNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I recommend one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK7IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck with the build!

LOL, you say it as if Thrustmaster isn't in the same boat.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/poll-thrustmaster-t300rs-gte-reliability-poll.329969/page-3

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-playstation-4/product-reviews/B00O8B7D02 (note: even the 3+ star reviews often are deducting points for reliability reasons)

This sucks. The G27 was (is?) great with only the wheel encoder wheel ever really being a problem, which has a permanent fix available (albeit requires decent technician skills to fully disassemble the wheel to get to it and then put it all back together properly).

Now, it seems both the G29 and Thrustmaster 300 wheels have atrocious reliability and durability and it's not even narrowed down to just one issue.

I guess I'll have to pray my G27 makes it through to the next generation of wheels where they finally get this shit sorted and make a decent wheel.

I still don't get why everyone complains about the gear drive vs. the belts in the G29, real cars have similar gears in the rack and pinion, nobody's car steers off of a belt. I don't know where people get the idea that gears are somehow a dated mechanism, timing belts were perfectly available when the first FFB wheels were created, they just weren't chosen. In fact, the reason you don't see gears in other wheels is because Logitech has a patent. When other wheels claim their mechanism is superior to gears, they're throwing you a sales pitch because they're not allowed to use gears. IMO, the Logitech FFB feels great, but much is left to the owner to set it up right for each game as developers are notoriously lazy when it comes to optimizing wheel settings.

The SteelSeries SRW-S1 is a bit of an oddball, since it's an accelerometer based wheel instead of a steering column, but it's far cheaper than most wheels and doesn't require pedals. It's pretty good as a bridge between a full blown wheel and a controller.

Apiga AP2. It's unfortunately out of stock (I picked up the last one :D). They might restock soon, but I don't know. However, GT Omega Racing and DX Racer have pretty good stands too. They also have full cockpits.

I bought some Mechanix gloves to use with my wheels as I have currently three microfiber/Alcantara and two leather rims. It really helps, especially with the Alcantara rims.

The gloves give much better grip on the Alcantara and I also like the gloves I bought because they breathe and are touch screen compatible so I can use my tablet or phone with them on.

Thrustmaster's standalone pedals would be cheaper or very close to the same price as an ebay G27 pedal set and the Bodnar adapter.

It's a much better product as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVN21IU/

The G29 shifter and Bodnar adapter may be the cheapest shifter option on the market, but the quality definitely reflects that compared to the SHH shifter, TH8A, or Fanatec.

It works and is relatively sturdy though (my G27 shifter is at least) so it isn't a terrible option.

I have this stand from amazon $120 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076LDQRWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Alternate option #1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GV628H8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07GV628H8&pd_rd_w=I1C1Q&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=8dFCD&pf_rd_r=MZMHM7DQ6Q3M431BX11A&pd_rd_r=990b1c78-9dbe-11e9-80a3-a18782f7606f

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Alternate #2 (THIS THING HAS A FREAKING CUP HOLDER!!!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQFBHBN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07NQFBHBN&pd_rd_w=I1C1Q&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=8dFCD&pf_rd_r=MZMHM7DQ6Q3M431BX11A&pd_rd_r=990b1c78-9dbe-11e9-80a3-a18782f7606f

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The Logitech G-920 with Shifter from amazon for $250 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LI8SCG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B00Z0UWV98&pd_rd_w=I1C1Q&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=8dFCD&pf_rd_r=MZMHM7DQ6Q3M431BX11A&pd_rd_r=990b1c78-9dbe-11e9-80a3-a18782f7606f&th=1

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and a gaming chair i got on sale (black friday) from staples for $40, but the lowest i see on amazon is $69 (I like the fact the arm rests swivel up rather than are just stationary, makes getting in and out easy and when the arm rests are down, gives me that f1 style enclosed feel LMFAO)
https://www.amazon.com/BestMassage-Office-Desk-Gaming-Chair/dp/B01ICHJIM8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=gaming+chair&qid=1562177964&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Tune To Win would be my recommendation by Carroll Smith, old but very informative.

I started to read "The Perfect Corner" and whilst there is nothing wrong with it, it's not my go to book, but that is just my personal opinion which doesn't mean it's right for everyone.

Looks like the other Thrustmaster bits are also discounted.

T3PA-Pro ($115): https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-xbox-one/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WP5WNF466F3F66YK2Q9Y&th=1

TX Servo Base ($192): https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Wheel-Servo-Base-Xbox/dp/B014US043A/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WP5WNF466F3F66YK2Q9Y&th=1

HERE WE GO!

only 3 hours left!!

EDIT: Best price on amazon for this EVER.
http://camelcamelcamel.com/Thrustmaster-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-playstation-4/product/B00O8B7D02

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

I bought one of these and it is the best thing I've bought. I know it is pricey but you'll never need anything else. You can find cheaper versions as well.

Your best bet is the thrustmaster t3pa pedals with a thrustmaster to USB adapter (not included)

I also found used Logitech ones

I use these to keep my chair from rolling: https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB840-Furniture-Gripper-Caramel/dp/B000X8X58S/ref=sr_1_1

And to keep my pedals more secure, I attached a square dowel (.75" x .75") to the front of my pedals and then i used a couple small pieces of wood to build a L on each side of the desk for that dowel to fit into to keep the pedals from moving backwards or lifting up.

The T3PA Pro's are currently only $20 more than the T3PA's on Amazon. Link I have them both and the Pros are substantially better, also upgraded the Pros with Richmotech load cell

They have a new updated version of these gloves that are also cheaper for anyone else who finds this result in Google. They're also sold and shipped through Amazon instead of a third party.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075P2MZPQ/ref=twister_B079NXMFQJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Can't you get the basic thrustmaster 3 pedal set for close to a $100? and like $150 for the pro set?

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-3-Pedal-Pedal-xbox-one/dp/B00KX75W9O/ref=sr_1_14?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1463366625&sr=1-14&keywords=thrustmaster

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add--xbox-one/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_8?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1463366612&sr=1-8&keywords=thrustmaster

Unsure about the rotation honestly, well if you're handy and want just the f1 rim there's this https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/02/uk-videogames/2011/dp/B006IR6NH8/image2_large._V140829823_.jpg it's the steel series srw s1, heavy modification needed since it doesn't plug into any wheel by default you just sort of turn it and it will turn by using accelerometers i guess. But already saw some people who adapted it to g25/27 etc.

Can't think of any other unit before that

This $10 purchase improved my set-up greatly. Chair doesn't budge an inch!

I bought this a month ago. Of course I'm on XB1, you should be able to find a bundle that fits what you want. Regardless, at $679 new plus something like this or this you're hovering around his $900 price point for brand new, never used stuff.

My 2 cents.

DrivingFast.net

TurnFast.com

"The Six Most Important Things You'll Learn At Racing School" (Jalopnik.com article)

"Performance Driving Illustrated" by Ross Bentley (PDF e-book)

"Ultimate Speed Secrets: The Complete Guide to High-Performance and Race Driving" by Ross Bentley (book)

"RaceLogic Advanced Circuit Driving Techniques" (PDF e-book)

Rapid-Racer.com Suspension Tuning

"Tune to Win" by Carroll Smith (book)

Do you mean the T3PA-PRO pedals? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVN21IU/

I've heard good things about them with the conical brake mod.

I picked these up and they work very well. Only need to use 2 and my chair goes nowhere at all.

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https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB840-Furniture-Gripper-Caramel/dp/B000X8X58S/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2/135-5530433-3182138?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000X8X58S&pd_rd_r=4528ba1a-682b-11e9-a637-6b060766031a&pd_rd_w=VhqP0&pd_rd_wg=9010w&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=N54Q9KEB0YYEVBKB599S&psc=1&refRID=N54Q9KEB0YYEVBKB599S

No. Absolutely not. The standard price for that setup is cheaper new than what they are asking. For instance, right now the g920 with pedals and shifter is $332.91 (give or take a couple bucks) brand new on amazon. Amazon prices fluctuate regularly throughout the day though so it's hard to predict what it be later but in the same ballpark for sure.

I am currently debating between two wheel bundles atm.

Logitech G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel + Logitech G Driving Force Shifter Bundle for $328

Or

Thrustmaster TMX Force Feedback racing wheel for Xbox One and WINDOWS for $189

This will be my first sim racing setup so I am wondering what you would recommend.

If you want to buy a new one, then probably the T150+T3PA set fits exactly in your limit. The pedals are really worth it compared to the stock pedals that come with the regular T150.

You could also try to keep an eye on a used T300 or T500 that might sell around this price range.

TX458

Thrustmaster T3PA

Looks like you can get both shipped from Amazon new for around $400-$450. Unless I'm missing something, that's not around $800.

If you haven't already found a similar deal, Amazon is selling the T3PA Pros for $99.99 today! Jump on it!

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_8?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1480366675&sr=1-8&keywords=thrustmaster

Sorry I'm an idiot, I may have forgotten to link the amazon address.

edit: while we are on the topic of T300.. has anyone tried insuring theirs with a warranty through SquareTrade? I am seeing a 3 year plan for "miscellaneous electronics" for $75, including accident protection ($50 without accident protection). Is this feasible to protect, as in, would they honor an insurance on this item?

edit 2: I just spoke with a sales specialist working with SquareTrade, and he informed me that even though they are an independent company, they are partners with Amazon, among other companies such as Target. With that said, he told me that if I wished to have this Amazon product insured by SquareTrade, I would need to speak with Amazon to see if they would offer the warranty plan. Doesn't make much sense to me, I'd imagine they could insure whatever they want, but that's what I was told.

You can buy the wheel from the video on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IR6NH8/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=00YHP592GNAJJSH3M7FE&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

I don't know if it works with all the consoles you want or not.

These are probably worth the extra $50 Thrustmaster VG T3PA-PRO 3-Pedal Add-On Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BiplDb60283HF

This wheel has analog paddles and is pretty popular. I don't think it is in production anymore. Currently it looks expensive (new) but it went on clearance for ~$50 or something and second hand ones are out there. It is a "floating" wheel so there is no base, but people have mounted it to a G27 base, or even rigged it up to a PVC pipe rotating inside of another PVC pipe.

$20 cheaper on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KX75W9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_grrHDbRWTA1TX

I use a Thrustmaster TMX Pro. $250 shipped by Amazon in the USA.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-TMX-PRO-Racing-Wheel/dp/B01N9K9N33/

https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB840-Furniture-Gripper-Caramel/dp/B000X8X58S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524413991&sr=8-7&keywords=caster+cups&dpID=41xEsinFx5L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The Simraceway SRW-S1 wheel uses analog paddle shifters that you can use for the throttle and the brake.

check out the sim raceway srw-s1, its a handheld wheel using accelerometers and magic for input, rather than a motor drive. so no force feedback. it can be mounted to a wheel base though. it has throttle and brake levers on the back of the unit.

https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Simraceway-SRW-S1-Gaming-Steering/dp/B006IR6NH8

This one? http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-playstation-4/dp/B00O8B7D02/

T3PA Pro's are $100 https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1480338818&sr=1-2&keywords=t3pa

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479783267&sr=8-1&keywords=300rs&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479783267&sr=8-1&keywords=300rs&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479783305&sr=8-2&keywords=T3PA

https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B01N9K9N33/ref=acr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

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tmx pro is garbage?

Thrustmaster VG TMX PRO Racing Wheel - Xbox One, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9K9N33/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8f4Nzb0B0DBHR

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T150-PRO-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B06XP1JZ53/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=t150&qid=1562433202&s=videogames&sr=1-4

the T150 is the same wheel, that's the pro model, for $199, so cheaper than the TMX even though it's literally the same wheel.

You could go with T150 Pro. It goes for $312 on amazon.ca now - link here

Just a heads up on that note... the pedal set and shifter I'm referring to are hard to find, on back order just about everywhere I've seen. But here they are for reference
Pedals:
http://www.amazon.com/T3PA-Wide-Pedal-Set-xbox-one/dp/B00KX75W9O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1418398824&sr=8-5
Shifter:
http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Gearbox-Shifter-playstation-4/dp/B00MAXOTB6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1418398824&sr=8-7

I'm in Canada, maybe no sale where you are?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00UVN21IU/?coliid=I32OTCXFSAP0BN&colid=1F4UO8WA03DXQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it