(Part 2) Best products from r/skoolies

You can get DC fans the same size ranges as box fans for about the same price. Heck typical electric radiator fans on cars are DC. See this quick example.

The bigger the fan, the less it has to work to move the same amount of air. See this study. This generally means better efficiency. This gets brought up a lot when people talk about cooling things like server rooms, computers, warehouses and such. It's why those massive giant fans sell so well. This also means they generally make less noise.

That same study above mentions the dynamics of flow and how slower bigger fans help with creating a better flow.

As for difficulty of installation, I can't see that it would be any more difficult than any other fan. You need to seal the overly large hole and set up electrical either way.

Honestly, I feel like you're post is the perfect example of what I'm trying to avoid, and what these companies bank on. Convenience at a cost. Both fans start at the 200 range or so, and there is no doubt in my mind that I'd spend at most half that trying to get any other fan to work in the hatch.

Thanks for the post though. It good to hear from others to think this stuff through.

That unit recommends 15A at 230V. You're looking at big ass air conditioner, beyond your normal window units.

But let's fudge some math and see!

This site says that 12k btu air conditioners consume between 991 and 1333 watts. Assuming HSPF and SEER are the same thing, you have a SEER of 12.5 on the split unit, putting power consumption near the bottom. We'll just assume that your air conditioner consumes 1000W on average.

We'll fudge your fridge at consuming 100W on average and your electronics, lights, and everything else consuming 30W on average (more if you have a hefty gaming laptop and use it heavily)

This site says the overall average is 4 hours a day of full sun for solar production. That seems like a bit of a low number but since we don't know where you are on a map or how your panels are oriented, we'll go with it.

With 1980W of panels, you get 7920Whr of juice a day on average if you make sure you get yourself some good sun exposure.

Your fridge and lights alone consume 3120Whr of juice a day on average.
If the air conditioner runs for, say, 5 hours a day, your air conditioner will consume 5000Whr of juice a day.

This puts your expected total usage at 8120Whr a day, leaving you at a 200W defecit in our little numbers calculation. And once you start talking about heating, those numbers will get much worse the colder it gets as you'll be expected to be in suboptimal solar conditions.

Assuming you take it extremely easy on the heating and cooling, or drop down to a lower power air conditioner, such a setup would work, but you'd be regularly cutting it close on particularly warm or hot days.

the good news, however, is that a 2000W generator with a few gallons of gas can easily charge your system back up to a good state on the occasional extra hot or extra cold days.

Overall, I'd say such a system could run well 95% of the time if you added an extra solar panel or two, but you'd be depending on shore power or a generator quite a bit otherwise.

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        Now lets look at battery capacity. I'm going to just fudge things and say you want enough battery power to run for a full day. 8120Wh of usage will require 676Ah at 12V to run your system for a day. So with your 600Ah LiPo battery system, I'd think you're at a minimum level of acceptable battery power. Personally I'd prefer to see 2-3 days worth of juice just in case of cloudy days.
        

I sure do, the Aroma professional 20 cup ARC-2000SB I specifically got the one with the Saute-then-simmer function. This is the one I use for all of my baking, as long as its level is never burns anything it may develop hot spots if not level but even then it just gets a little over done. The Saute-the-simmer function stays on a high heat until liquid is added, then it lowers the heat. So for example when I'm making bread I just put the machine on keep warm for 10 minutes before putting the bread in, unless its cold out leave the machine open keep warm actualy gets pretty hot. Once my bread is kneaded and ready I turn off the keep warm and toss it in to rise, depending on the weather I may or may not leave it open for rise. If you used rapid rise yeast the bread will be ready for baking after its doubled in size, if you used regular yeast "punch" the bread down and let it rise again. Then hit the saute-then-simmer button and close the lid. When it beeps at you the bread is done.

I definitely recommend covers as well. I've had plenty of rainy stuffy days where I couldn't open a window and was glad to have vent covers. Raises your roof line a bit though(broke one on a tree once). Really easy to install a replacement if it happens. Only cost about $20 each and don't require any sealing, they hover just above the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Cleaning-Aerodynamic-Included-40431/dp/B000BUQODG

I ended up bolting one of these kinds of underbody truck storage units to my frame and cutting an opening in that metal skirt to access the door. Fairly easy and turned out pretty nice.

My inspiration came from this video.

Would something like this: SONGMICS Folding Storage Ottoman Bench Storage Chest Foot Rest Stool with Metal Support, Holds up to 660lb, Dark Gray ULSF77K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNFKYC3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tzrODbWZAXPWR

Fit under the couch you have there? Idk if this one is to tall to fit if you could find a shorter one. It could offer extra seating as well as storage.

I'm not an expert in school buses, but in cars and trucks the factory uses seam sealer like this- product below. Its probably very strong, unless its in your way I would leave it or add to it.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000PEWDKG

3 stage charger is the correct answer. Also, some chargers specify they play nicely with agm batteries.

I’d: I would try to purchase a charger than can supply slightly less than the max allowable charge current (according to the battery manufacturer)

I’ve used one similar to this for about 20 years now: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC1281-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B07BLLRM8R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=40+amp+car+charger+100+amp+booster&qid=1568630635&sr=8-3

If the batteries can safely charge at 42 amps, I would try to find a charger that is rated for 40.

The most professional chargers are hard wired and automatic and begin to charge whenever they are supplied with shore power. Less expensive models have alligator clips to connect to battery terminals and require the user to press a button(s) to begin charging.

Make sure to connect to the battery terminals and not some wire downstream.

Also, budget for a new alternator or even consider installing a 2nd alternator just to charge the coach batteries. It has been my experience that alternators tend to fail when used to charge house batteries, especially through an isolator. Also, alternators are much happier supplying high current when spinning fast. It’s much harder for an alternator to produce high current when the engine is at idle.

O wow!! I really liked that one. This is where we got ours https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BXL7Q4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B017BXL7Q4&linkCode=as2&tag=mapgps02-20&linkId=6307ce6f2666f9e7daf257263e963d02

I mean, it's always going to be a nightmare - I'm not sure how those are generally affixed for travel. So you might as well figure it out now, since the reward is immediate warmth.

I'm thinking about this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Dickinson-Marine-00-NEWSF-Newport-Heater/dp/B007PS3GGU instead of a cubic mini or whatever, not least because it's a permanent mount on the wall rather than a temporary thing taking up floor space.

Well, tyvek won't really help much - heck just painter's plastic as a vapor barrier from the outside and then some pink stuff (I use recycled denim, it also helps dampen sound) would work just fine. Other people use the rigid foam - check out some of /u/gilliganphantom's posts - he used spray foam.

Insulation can help a lot with condensation, but remember that airflow!

In the meantime, buy buckets of desiccant. https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=desicant&qid=1550686565&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Hopefully this won't get spam filtered.

I probably have the same thing on my bus.

these are the clamps? things that I bought that work perfectly with them

I find, they are extremely handy for tieing things down or anything like that.

You can buy it here, off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013LLSZG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I was looking for these specifically for RVs and the appropriate ones are over $1000!! I'm not spending that kind money for a stove so I got this camp stove which is exactly the same design as the professional ones.
I've added a safety valve so I close the gas evertime I'm not cooking.
Besides I will open the windows and emergency exit on the roof when I am.

Haven't used it yet just works like a charm from my quick test run.
See here for my IG story on it:
https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE3OTk1Nzc3ODU1MDkxMzUx/?utm_source=ig_story_highlights_share&igshid=s8coijb8138r

Bosch Tronic 3000 T 7-Gallon Electric Mini-Tank Water Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148O64JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NZo3BbWJS52PN I like this one. I could have sworn they made it in an 11 gallon but I can't find it on Amazon. I'll use a 1.5gpm or less shower head which I think you'll want for water conservation anyway. Takes about 20 minutes to heat up. Maybe for a family of 5 there are better options... With your AH I feel like you could put a 30 gallon electric... Could be wrong

They wont be the only thing holding down the panels , if even at all. They’ll be held at a determined height using ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLTQ5CN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MUF0DbWNHHDJ9 ) and L brackets but thanks for the concern!

>In many cases, state firearms laws can be considerably less restrictive than federal firearms laws. This does not confer any de jure immunity against prosecution for violations of the federal laws. However, state and local police departments are not legally obligated to enforce federal gun law as per the U.S. Supreme Court's ruling in Printz v. United States.

For example, in Ohio Florida (of course) having any weapon out of plain sight (ie in a glove box or console) would be a crime that you'd be arrested for by state police as per Fla. Stat. §790.001, even though you'd be complying with federal laws.

That's a bit of a pick and choose example, since in most but not all states you'd be safe slapping an unloaded pistol in a locked container. But still, always best to make sure of the state laws since those are what's going to be enforced by the potentially "in a bad mood" police officer.

I actually recommend that exact book featured in the site you linked, "Traveler's Guide for the Firearm Laws of the Fifty States". I've carried it for a little over 5 years now (always get the newest edition!) and it's great for figuring out each states travel laws. It also covers concealed carry permit reciprocity, which anyone that has one knows can be quite frustrating when traveling. I personally don't have one, I keep a pistol in a proper area (secured/plain sight, depending on state) and a large bore rifle for wild animals. Never expect to get "busjacked" and never really carry one on me. I know from past experience you don't want to be unarmed if a coyote comes lurking around while you're in the boonies, but also don't want to get some iron bracelets for improper carry of a firearm (moreso the former point than the latter).

let me blow your mind : https://www.amazon.com/RIOGOO-Heating-Electric-Indoor-Warming/dp/B07HNX1WVF/

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I would pull that compost toilet out and just put a brand new portable toilet in there. It'll be a lot easier to sell. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074YW746P

Thanks for the recommendation. Only issue is that my battery is 14V and all the related battery charging systems are 12V. I guess it shouldn't matter right?

Edit: shopping around I think I want a system with fairly high amperage that is designed for RV/ marine use. The only problem is the 12V/14V issue.

I'm between https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0157-1-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B002DU3S9A/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2U296R8AN80PO&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1478634974&sr=1-1&keywords=Battery%2BTender%2B022-0157-1%2BWaterproof%2B12%2BVolt%2BPower%2BTender%2BPlus%2BBattery%2BCharger&th=1

And the 24V version. Maybe I should stick to 12V because it will actually charge to 14.4V? May need to experiment.