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Just a note, be careful using carb cleaner, or straight 4-stroke gas (with no oil) for this. 2-stroke engines rely on oil mixed into the gas for lubrication. Carb cleaner has no oil, and can wash the oil off the cylinder walls, running the engine with no lubrication.

If you need to try something like this, it's better in some ways to use a small splash/spritz of oil-mixed, 2-stroke gas.

Yes, I'd interpret your test as showing that the engine is not properly getting fuel. You can clean and rebuild the carb. Or you can replace the carb.

Replacing the carb is simpler than disassembling and rebuilding it. It's also more likely to be successful. For ~$15, replacing the carb is probably worth a shot. One example:
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-BVM200FE-Craftsman-Weedeater-545081857/dp/B07597HVX8

Yes, ethanol-free gas should help avoid gumming up the carb. But you could still add stabilizer to the gas, as cheap insurance.

The four basic things every engine needs to run are fuel, spark, timing and compression.

It looks like you've got fuel, and spark which leads me to believe it could be compression or timing. Can you get a compression tester to see what it's getting?

If you find that you have compression then it's probably the timing that you're going to have to fix. And that's WELL out of my wheelhouse of knowledge about engines so someone else smarter than I would have to help with that.

I know you say you've got a lot of experience with small engines but sometimes it helps to go back to basics and start small.

Here's a good resource: http://m.wikihow.com/Siphon-Gas. I personally have this device which makes it very easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2QL0DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J9D.yb7A80KC5. Either way, wear safety goggles in case there's a splash, and dispose of the old gas appropriately.

Get yourself some Kano Kroil from Amazon and spray it down liberally. Wait 24 hours and then try to take the bolt off. I use said spray consistently at work to free up bolts that have rusted solid on 2000° boilers. It is worth every penny.

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ.IDb8RWT79K

It probably is, but you should definitely consider the Harbor Freight motors instead, if you're in the USA. The predator 212 is THE standard go kart and mini bike motor if you're on a budget, and Harbor Freight quite often has a bitchin 20% or 25% off coupon you can use to get the price of a Predator down around a hundred bucks. Parts are plentiful and cheap as well.

Here it is at Harbor Freight

Here it is on Amazon

Wow... Shiny! Looks nice!

I know it's probably stock, and you may be inclined to restore the Cub to stock (and that's OK!), but have you ever considered how loud these exhausts are. Does it ever bother or concern you? Just wondering.

This winter I will be restoring a 1960 Panzer. I'm not hell bent on keeping everything stock, but will keep the appearance as such and it'll all look "period correct". I found a new exhaust (used on a prev. build / restoration) and I love how quiet it is, and have had others comment on it as well.

Went back through my history and found it. I had to cut off bracket so I could configure it for my application. I notice this is mentioned as a replacement for Cub, Kubota...

https://www.amazon.com/Stens-105-296-Muffler/dp/B001OKBDOW/ref=pd_cp_86_1?pd_rd_w=yyIUC&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=XZD3E4N3FX49D176YQNR&pd_rd_r=2ba824d0-e26c-4029-8ee0-24dc7399f8a6&pd_rd_wg=5zjh2&pd_rd_i=B001OKBDOW&psc=1&refRID=XZD3E4N3FX49D176YQNR

I ended up configuring this horizontally in front of and under a forward-facing head / cylinder on a vertical shaft, 18hp Briggs. I had to sleeve the inlet and bought 1, 180 deg. mandrel bend to cut up and get this exactly where I wanted it.

Yeah, I've already dropped them an email. I've also dropped a bunch of ebay and amazon sellers emails to get all of the dimensions.

The part looks like a generic part with a label slapped on. If I knew how that part actually works I could buy one slightly different dimensions probably or even buy one bigger and file it down inside.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262849825399 (Only has 2 measurements)

• Distance from nobble to nobble is 1.5mm smaller than original
  
• Distance from screw hole to screw hole is 1mm smaller
  
  

  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272383446646 (Only has 2 measurements)
  

• Distance across one side to the other side is 2mm smaller
  
• Distance from screw hole to screw hole is correct
  
  

  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123679192970 (Only has 4 measurements)
  

• Distance across one side to the other side is 2mm smaller
  
• Distance from screw hole to screw hole is 1mm smaller
  
• Diameter of screw holes are 0.25 too small (negibile)
  
  

  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293134680197 (Only has 3 measurements)
  

• Diameter of screw holes are 0.25 too small (negibile)
  
• Distance from screw hole to screw hole is correct
  
• Distance across one side to the other side is correct
  
  

  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112078986950 (Only has 3 measurements)
  

• Distance from screw hole to screw hole is 1mm smaller
  
• Distance diagonally from screw hole to screw hole is correct
  
• Distance from nobble to nobble is 2.5mm smaller
  
  A fair few products on eBay and Amazon say things like:
  
  > 1.Please allow 1-2mm error due to manual measurement. Please make sure you do not mind before you bid.
  
  I doubt that 1-2mm difference in most of these would cause any issue?

Hope this helps
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-16100-ZF5-025-Carburetor-Be32A-C/dp/B00AJTYSNW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Would that be something like this? Ignition coil for B&S. This is the first small engine project I've worked on, so I'm unfamiliar with how the ignition system works.

Briggs & Stratton 590781 Magneto Armature Replacement 394891, 392329, 394895 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BWTVIAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aWajDbDHNHBQY

Something more like this. What you have is just an ignition coil.

I’ll go buy a spark plug for $2.5 today. But if that doesn’t work what’s the part number of the coil thing I need?

NEW TECUMSEH 34443 34443A 34443B 34443C 34443D IGNITION COIL SOLID STATE MODULE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LT23OZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1BD9AbEZY8C17 So is this not it ? Cause you said $60 but this is only $10

Beduan 3 Way Shut Off Ball Valve, 3/8" Hose Barb 2 Switch Brass Y Shaped Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N5ZWLHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_p5UWDb93XG6WH

This is what I was thinking. One valve for the main and one for the secondary. My concern was I had read on a forum that a gravity fed like this could possibly flood the carb.

632230 632272 Carburetor with Spark Plug Fuel Filter for Tecumseh 5 HP 6 HP 631828 631067 631067A H30 H50 H60 HH60 HH70 Engines 4 Cycle Engine Troy Bilt Tiller Toro Snowblower Sears Tillers 47279 Carb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NWSK31/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5OXUDb3SRQZAJ

Holy crap! thanks man! :D would this belt be the same ? https://www.amazon.ca/Murray-1733324SM-Drive-Belt-Throwers/dp/B0043RTOVW

Click the link I provided. They're also on Amazon for 20. https://www.amazon.com/Carbhub-697190-Carburetor-Stratton-14-5HP-21HP/dp/B07JQH5BTC/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=Carburetor+For+Briggs+%26+Stratton+Intek+792171+Nikki+795366&qid=1555516947&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull

They're no letters next to the numbers but that kit does look exactly the same, during that time I ended up ordering one I found on Amazon but it looks exactly the same as the one you sent me

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V64XVJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eW8WBbSJ9T714

Looks sort of like this. Certainly no higher quality than this: https://smile.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-Multimeter-Resistance-Continuity/dp/B00002N5EX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gb+instruments+battery+tester&qid=1559247087&s=gateway&sr=8-1 I'll get one of the other ones in the meantime. Do you know how to upload photos here?

I believe it’s Part number 107-4607 for the kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Toro-Carburetor-Piece-Parts-107-4607/dp/B00TD8FTBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=98-7042&qid=1558477036&s=gateway&sr=8-1

\^ This. The EPA says you can't adjust the carb more then 1/4 turn. Amazon says eff that. There may be some small plastic caps you have to remove first to actually turn the adjustment screws.

Before you go too crazy though, remove the muffler and you should be able to shine a light in and get a look at the cylinder walls. Make sure they aren't scored before wasting any time.