Best products from r/smarthome

I haven't found a smart heater, but I have a heater that works with a Smart plug/sensor combo pretty well.

I have the Vornado Whole Room Heater which has three power settings. I set mine on medium, then plug it into a SmartThings outlet. In SmartThings, I created an automation to tie a particular multi-purpose sensor to the outlet, so if the temperature drops below a certain point, the outlet turns on, which turns the heater on.

The two key points are to find a heater which uses manual controls instead of digital, so it resumes the settings and turns on as power is restored, and to find a Smart outlet which is rated for enough power to the heater. My setup requires a SmartThings hub and is automated, but you could do similar with a good Alexa Echo Plus compatible outlet and voice control to say "turn the heater on" or "turn the heater off" or set up a Routine in the Alexa app based on time of day.

Depending on the heater you choose, it looks like the new Amazon Smart Plug should have enough capacity. It also comes in a Black Friday deal with the new Echo Dot if you need to add another Echo device.

You just want to make sure whatever smart switches you buy support 3-way configurations. Lutron Caseta does this by using their Pico Remotes, which is nice because the Picos are cheaper and easier to install than a second smart switch, but look and function pretty much just like a wired switch. I believe Caseta also offers a more expensive smart switch that allows traditional 3-way wiring too if for whatever reason you didn't want to use the Pico remotes.

You can see what I'm talking about here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=3-0-VW5kZXIgJDc1&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07HM6L48C&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

The switch comes with a "remote kit" (the Pico), which when screwed in to a switch box looks just like the switch, and the remote pairs to the switch to control the same light seamlessly. Lutron provides very good instructions for their products too.

edit: This starter kit adds the required hub as well, and includes everything you would need for your stair lights. Some will scoff at hubs, but it's needed for Caseta because they use RF for wireless communication, and I think the hub is worth it for Caseta at least because it's probably the fastest responding, most reliable smart switches available. Hubless Wi-Fi switches will never be as reliable and consistent. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNzUgYW5kICQxMDA%3D&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07G5V6M6G&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

Just to start - It doesn't matter if you have a $1000 deadbolt if your door and frame are easily compromised. Here's the things you should check first:

​

• What screws are holding your strikeplate in place? This is the little piece of metal on the door jamb that the bolt slides into. Most are just 3/4" long and only secure the strike plate to the door trim, which is basically a tiny bit of soft wood. Which is why it's so easy to just kick a door open. Upgrade these to at least 3" long screws. While you're at it, upgrade some of the hinge screws to also 3" long. A 1lb box of screws costs $10 at Home Depot, and will be enough to secure every exterior door in your home, and can be installed with a power drill or screw driver.
  
• Upgrade the strike plate. Most strike plates that come with a lock are cheap stamped metal, with only two screw holes. A few of the nicer deadbolts at the hardware store will include an actual plate instead of just stamped metal, but I'd still buy a separate strike plate. Look for ones that are thicker metal, and have more screw holes. More screw holes means the force of a kick gets spread out over more screws and more wood. An upgraded strike plate can cost you about $5 - 10 per door for something pretty good, or $75 for "door armor" which is basically kick proof.
  
• Door fit. Make sure you can't push certain spots of the door or frame to pop the door open. Make sure your weather striping is good, and there are no gaps that someone could easily get anything through - sides and bottom.
  
• Door quality - make sure your door is not an interior door (believe it or not this happens). If you can, upgrade to one that is either solid, or reinforced. This can be expensive, but interior doors are literally made of cardboard. No point upgrading a door a baby can kick through to unlock.
  
• Door location - Make sure that any windows near a door are not within reach of the lock. If they are, you should get window film put on them.
  
  I use a Yale Security YRD110ZW619 Push Button Deadbolt and it's freaking awesome with features such as.
  
  
• Pick proof, it's not possible to pick the lock by conventional means.
  
• Built in tamper alarm. Prying on the lock will cause the alarm to go off.
  
• Solid steel construction.
  
• Hardened steel thick strike plate
  
• Anti saw hardened steel deadbolt core.
  
• Z wave with a motorized deadbolt assembly.
  
• Push button, non touch screen design. (push buttons hold up better in extreme cold and still react to input if your wearing gloves)
  
• Up to 8 digit master combination with the ability to program up to 100 normal user codes.
  
  It's one of the cheapest smart locks on the market but probably one of the most secure. I use three of them on my home and I'm confident that a burglar would rather bust out my window then dick with my door. I have acoustic glass break sensors and motion detectors in side my home.
  
  Mine ties in to my Abode security alarm system and automatically locks as soon as the door is closed.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh ok, I wasn't sure if it was some sort of special enclosure. I have a couple tube lights in the basement, that I ended up wiring to a smart outlet that turns on via a smart switch.

Yeah, I'd say that's probably your best bet in moving towards a smart switch. I like having the Z-Wave bulbs as well, but the switches are really nice.

My favorite one thus far is the GE Dimmer or On/Off Z-Wave switch. I slowly replaced most of my switches with these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2

They've been the most reliable product in my home.

Good luck!

This is making sense now, I'm pretty sure I'm following you. Black in your hot, white is your neutral, bare wire is ground, red wire is "load", this is the switch line. The fact that you have this in the outlet box coming from the ceiling is good.

So, I'm assuming that when you pull the fan down, you will see that there is a fan controller that is hooked up to the black and white wires. Making it permanently "hot" the fan controller then relays the fan on and off. You will find the red wire abandoned, it used to be used (or was intended to be used) to switch the light, it is still attached to the "load" of the switch.

You are in good shape.... GE makes a pretty good z wave fan control module. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ. You will remove the fan module and hook the black wire to the black wire of the fan and the blue wire to the red wire. The white wires should all be tied together and it should be capped off in the box the physical switch is.

Here is a diagram. http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/fan-switch-loop.gif

You can consider the following aspects: I recommend the Meross brand, because I have been using their products, I hope to help you:

1. smart wall switch: they can make the home lights or ceiling fan smart
   
2. smart bulbs: smart bulbs with adjustable color and color temperature, they will make your room full of changes and surprises.
   
3. smart plug:can be used for some small appliances
   
4. smart socket:this is a must-have for home
   
5. smart converter switch If your hands-on ability is relatively strong, then the smart converter switch is a cheaper option, you can install a switch for the appliance and make them smart
   
   ​

> I'm okay buying a hub

IF that's the case, then I'd get a hub. It gives you a lot more flexibility in smart options, more options for home automation, and you're not stuck just doing hue or through Wifi. I like SmartThings; plenty of people around here want something more sophisticated, and that's fine, but if you're just getting started it's a perfectly viable solution. The SmartThings hubs will allow you to get any Zwave or Zigbee switches. I'm a big fan of the GE switches; there's also a dimmer version. I haven't done much cross comparison, I've just never had a problem with any of the GE switches I own (~20). That said, the price keeps creeping up, so I've picked up some of the old Jasco ones, which is the switch that eventually became the GE Switch. The old ones are only Z wave, not Z-wave+, but I haven't had issue with those either.

A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.

In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.

Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.

If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.

Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.

I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.

End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.

Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.

You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.

GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q

And one of more of these

GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF

My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:

• SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch
  
• GE ZigBee Smart Lighting Dimmer, Plug-In, 2-Outlet, Led & CFL Bulb compatible
  
  In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
  
  Beware, there's a caveat:
  
  Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff

I'm also a huge fan of the WAGO 221 wire nuts. They are a little more expensive (20c each), but they are small, make rearranging things very easy and in 5 years when you switch your dimmers to the latest and greatest, the copper isn't all twisted.

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

This depends on if you currently have a Smart Hub yet or not. If you do, a simple and easy to use switch, would be the GE line of Z-wave switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491404479&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+z-wave+switch

However, if you don't have Wink, or Smartthings, and want homekit support, then the Lutron Caseta is probably your best bet. It isn't really complicated, it just looks that way at a glance. But its really just a dimmer switch.

Here's an option to consider. If you go with a SmartThings hub and compatible devices including this switch that covers the existing physical switch, it's entirely possible to have a physical switch that refuses to turn lights on after it is pressed during the night while allowing it during the day (providing your WiFi lights work with SmartThings - the list is here). It will take some advanced programming using webCORE (the super powerful web-based SmartThings automation system) but it sounds like it would be incredibly useful for your particular situation.

Z-wave switches will do what you want and are compatible with Smartthings. I have a few GE dimmers but they also make non-dimming switches. You can get them for about $35, sometimes less.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles and Zwave Repeater Range Extender, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_shK0AbC9YFRW8

Can’t speak to how well they control fans or how they work in the same setup as the Lutron Casetta.

Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0VwgAbD6D17PZ.

New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TXwgAb5Z1F42N

So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.

https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ

Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876032&sr=1-4&keywords=timer+plug

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876060&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GE+zwave+outlet

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sj1-BbZ9CRKJM

I have two of these controlling ceiling fans. They work great.

> but you don't cover them with Z-wave buttons, you cover them with a regular combination light switch

I meant something like this to go over the actual switch. Then I leave the real light switches on at all times, and use the z-wave buttons or Home Assistant to control the relay.

Good point on room in the box, too. I'll definitely need to check that out before I buy it

Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:

TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.

If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.

Well the best I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1542927191&sr=8-37&keywords=smart+outdoor+outlet

Which is not specifically for outdoors. I think probably the reason that there are not outdoor rated in gang box receptacles is that the electrical code for different areas could really make it hard to make a device that will fit them all.

Part of the problem is that a smart socket has to have power all the time (be it from a battery or from the AC) so there could be real issues with installing it properly.

If you decide to go ahead and do it this way, please consult with an electrician or your local governing authority to make sure you are following code. If you are not and there's a fire, it could go poorly for you.

Check out TP link smart switches

and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs

Hope this helps!

(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)

I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:

The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm getting an Amazon smart plug for my heater. Here's the specs on it.

Electrical Ratings

Input: 100-120VAC, 60Hz 15A
Max Output: 15A Max

Source is the Amazon page for it, https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Smart-Plug-works-Alexa/dp/B01MZEEFNX?th=1

Should be safe with that. Please note that I am not an electrician and this is just my 2 pennies.

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

No

If you have a switch for the fan and a switch for the light, you are better off with 2 zwave switches, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537134869&sr=1-4&keywords=ge+zwave+fan+switch

and

https://www.amazon.com/Repeater-Enabled-SmartThings-HomeSeer-Inovelli/dp/B01N235ROS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537134836&sr=1-2&keywords=inovelli+fan+switch


That would give you much better control over everything. For me and all my fans, I have exactly one control. So I need this to control fan/lights unless I want to run a secondary wire back (which I don't)

GE / Jasco dimmer switches, ~$40 on Amazon, a few bucks less without the dimmer function.

Plug and play zwave functionality, just make sure there is a neutral wire.

I'm controlling incandescents, halogen, LEDs and I think at least one CFL with them and had no issues with the switches.

I am using a SmartThings hub to control them, FWIW.

EDIT: There is a zigbee version as well, though I think they are harder to find.

EDIT 2: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to use the SmartThings hub to control them, you can just tap on the switch and it works like any other paddle dimmer, it just provides the option of controlling via zwave.

These are 3 individual switches, therefore, you can just replace them with Homekit smart switches. You may need to get a bigger box to accommodate these Homekit smart switches.

I have listed some of the Homekit smart switches below and a link to the Apple website that has a list of all the Homekit switches that are available. Also, the Homekit subreddit is here: https://reddit.com/r/HomeKit/ if you have more Homekit questions.


https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Dimmer-Switch-Required-HomeKit/dp/B0743Q7VCL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540877906&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=idevices+dimmer+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_3031359011

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540877972&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=lutron+caseta+switch&psc=1

https://www.apple.com/ios/home/accessories/

Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.


https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484978461&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+12724

Easiest first thing to do is add a Google Home (or Alexa but sounds like you’re in the Google ecosystem). This gives voice control to anyone in the house. Next I would consider adding some physical switches for the bulbs - you’ll probably need a hub like SmartThings unless you’re willing to wire them in because all the WiFi switches need power. Here is a wireless example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9w5Xzb56QC5K0

We actually have a bunch of Lutron Caseta switches which work great. Those ones you posted look nicer without leds on them but we really like the rotary/knob dimmers. They seem to match the house. We’re getting gouged for it though.

I have 4 bulbs in lamps that aren't on a switch and these work well because you just leave the lamp turned on. I have one switch that controls a smart bulb and I am considering changing to a smart switch like this https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2 as it too easy for someone to turn off my bulb. I don't believe that the power drain is huge leaving the switch on at all times but don't have any equipment to measure the power usage.

I would like some switch that looks like a normal decora switch but just sticks on the wall. Hoping your post can draw out some recommendations. Been waiting for another sale on the at the Lightify Dimmer Switch as a fallback.

TL;DR Wink Hub 2, Cheap Z-Wave Lock, Ring. Alexa with screen for added functionality. Check links below.

I recommend a wink hub 2 and a cheap $150 z-wave doorlock with a ring. As a bonus, if you don't already have one you can get a Alexa show (what I have) or spot to view the video feed from the doorbell and lock the door (unlocking functionality is not available so people cant tell through the door). Links Below.

Here's stuff I use:

Lock:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F1F1PY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PMIheKkvD1wxT

Hub:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4lTYAbNCH8TAT

Doorbell:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VkTYAb2ZMKX7Y

Echo Spot:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SQYXTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BoTYAbF56H4XE

Echo Show:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J24C0TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gpTYAbRS910HE

Not a problem! GE has a smart fan switch that will work for what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
You would need a z-wave hub though.

Or you can get crazy with the Harmony and the Lutron Maestro IR fan and light switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CHWyybQC0JFEJ
But no Siri voice control and probably awkward through Alexa.

I use the GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Dimmer Switch with SmartThings for my exterior lights. I really like that they are set to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

GE's not quite as expensive. Check these out. You'll need one smart dimmer for every light, then however many add-on switches.

GE z-wave smart dimmer


GE add-on switch

Install an automatic toilet flusher and also a smart light switch controlling the lights in your washroom. You could program your light to blink on and off once a day which will trigger the toilets photo sensor to automatically flush. You might have to find an automatic flusher with an adjustable sensor. I would set it to most sensitive for this configuration.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Touchless-Dual-Flush-Converter-Replacement-TECHO/dp/B01DO7ABHW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=automatic+toilet+flush&qid=1573580908&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTTRITVgwNEJBR0tJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDMxNzY5M0IySDdaUjhUTzFXVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEwMDUzMksyNDgwQkFQTEZMWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=smart+switch&qid=1573581759&sr=8-5

I think you are looking for a paddle switch so the light switch doesn't have to be on the "on" position all the time. I see a lot of people use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482999401&sr=1-4&keywords=Ge+paddle or this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 I can't speak for Hue or LIFX and Nest because I think they use their own standard (not z-wave so it doesn't play well with smartthings) other than if you would like to change light colors. If I had a clean slate, I would stick with one standard, z-wave products.

I have two switches in my apartment and love them while they are single pole, you can wire it into a multipole, just don't ever the other switch. It was easy for us because one switch was on the kitchen counter behind the coffee machine, and the other ended up behind some shelving.

I wired it myself and I have very very limited knowledge on the subject. I think you can set a timer, or at the very least you can use your cell phone to turn it off from the bed.

Also these are hubless, but you can get a hub if you want one.

1 switch controls light and 1 switch controls fan? if so light switch / fan switch

Not sure how long they’ve been around (I just bought them last month), but these are ones I have: GE Z-wave fan switch

Ok, I'm sorry, I don't understand how any of this works but I'm trying to learn!


So these light bulbs would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed/dp/B075MVMRCM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539489965&sr=8-6&keywords=dimming+light+bulbs


and these switches:https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=lp_13575748011_1_4?srs=13575748011&ie=UTF8&qid=1539490103&sr=8-4



and I was thinking about getting a lamp in one room, I could use this plug: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1539490403&sr=8-15&keywords=dimmer+outlet


and a wink hub.


And I would be able to dim and lighten a room from my phone (or the switch on the wall for those plugs). This comes out to be ~$300 for the whole set.


The Phillips Hue would be $665 for the same set up.


Do I have this right? I plan to do more research, but just so I am at the same baseline.

This is the one I've been using:

GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LzDxbDAQFFY3

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch, On/Off Control, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.HWsDb3VAEJTQ

Comes with an almond paddle

Then Lightify is the only option really, but it does require a hub as well. The link below should be the one.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

For light switches: something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482171474&sr=8-1&keywords=Zwave+light+switch

Is this what you are looking for? It's GE's Z-Wave fan control switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=asc_df_B00PYMGVVQ5057002/

I use Sengled Zigbee bulbs and put this zigbee switch overtop of our normal switch. So basically the power is always on to the lights, but you can control it via voice or by using the switch on top of the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

Here you go:

SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yOG5Ab9B22XYP

I have several of those set ups in my home. I use ZWave switches and plugs.

I have a SmartThings hub controlling it with the built in Smart Lighting app. If I turn on my switch it will automatically turn on a plug that has a light plugged into it.

I have over cabinet lighting connected to my dining room lights, and a curio cabinet connected to living room lights. It's not instant, usually about a 5 second delay between tuning on the switch and the plug turning on.

A scene controller should do the same thing without controlling a circuit directly, and should be faster. Usually they have a few buttons on them. But they cost more than a standard switch.

They do NOT need to be the same switch, just the opposite: most (all?) manufacturers make an "add on switch" for just such a purpose. The wiring gets kind of funky, not normal 3-way switch wiring.

Here is a walkthrough I found very helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V1SRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a whole bunch of options available. I just listed 3 below:

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW1KD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01MS6JDUW/ref=sr_1_9_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056365&sr=1-9&ppw=fresh&keywords=levitron%2Bdimmer%2Bswitch&th=1

Here's an option

Just to verify, is it this one? Do you happen to know if there's a version with a dimmer?

This is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j1ikDbR0SGPP3

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

With Z-wave you can connect a switch to another device no hub required. Example...
This,
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW

Can control this,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LQFHN2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2MTH68EAGRM75BW5Z7KZ&th=1

Without a hub. Just the two devices connected to each other. I've never done it because I've got a hub.

That's probably the route I'm going to take.

and for context, I am 24 and the "apartment" in this case is my room at my folks house as I still live at home. No lease violations to worry about.

Now, if I purchase something with Z-Wave like this (https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2), will I also have to buy a controller?

I'd prefer it to just work over WiFi which I know the WeMo switch will do but the GE one is a bit cheaper.

I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_o8EqDbTC1P2HK

in Smartthings.

It fits over a light switch so you can no longer use it and can be set up to connect to Hue through Smartthings.

There's also the new Lutron Aurora. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx It connects directly to the Hue hub and is nicer looking, but pricier.

Alternatively, you can get Switches for insteon or caseta. Both require their own hub but they have no neutral required switches. It won't work directly with Hue, but it will act as a kill switch for power to the Hue lights so it just may require multiple commands like "turn on caseta kitchen lights, set hue kitchen lights to blue".