(Part 2) Best products from r/snakes

Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid/sterilite /iris tub & soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. So if you want to go this route, plan way ahead. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing. To make a glass tank work, I suggest covering three sides with foam board to help insulate, and covering most of the screen lid with saran wrap or foil to keep humidity in.

Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.

Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant w one end at between 88F and 90F & a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, & should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. For a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate. CHE gives off no visible light. Red lights are often given out like candy at PetCo/Smart places as good ways to provide heat at night. They are not. Ball pythons can see red light, and it messes up their day/night cycle. I don't have recommendations for CHE because I don't use them.

Thermostats
Any & all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F & injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones w more probes so that you can control all your heat sources w one unit. They have a ton of good safety features & a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features & can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.

Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side (I hide it on the ground under the substrate so I know the absolute hottest place my BP can get to). I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps & the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes & also checking the temps of the prey items.

Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open & they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. Some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are dishwasher safe & also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe & thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines/leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.

Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop & pee in their water. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.

Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation & dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. They come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer. If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.

How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.

You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.

Frozen / Thawed
I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 100F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.

I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.

Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.

Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.

Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python shed blue eyes". Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water & make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it & inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it) carefully & look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water & it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.

Don't apologize! You're doing exactly the right thing. I wish more future snake owners had your foresight and willingness to do research/set things up ahead of time.

Great choice with Animal Plastics. Might I recommend either a T8 or T10 instead of the A10? For a lower price, you get more floor space and still adequate vertical room. BPs tend to wander horizontally rather than vertically anyways (and you don't want them falling more than a couple inches, since they're heavy-bodied, "plop" snakes). The T8s are very popular, but I personally have a T10 and love it.

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SET-UP INSTRUCTIONS: Sorry if any of this is a repeat for you...

Heating - You may have already seen this but, ANY heat source must be regulated by a thermostat. Jumpstart is a cheap option, and I recommend getting a Herpstat Intro+ or 1 if/when you can afford it.

Heat source depends on your local conditions. For people in warmer climates (ambient room temperature always above 70 degrees), a strip of Flexwatt or other heat tape on one side of the enclosure provides an adequate hot spot. If you live in a colder climate, you may need a radiant heat panel as well to maintain 75+ degree temps. Reptile Basics sells RHPs you can install yourself, or call ProProducts and they'll ship a unit to Animal Plastics to install for you. (Each heat source needs its own thermostat, OR use something like a Herpstat 2)

You can use a heat lamp, if you order your AP cage with a hole in the roof. However, heat lamps aren't as effective or efficient as RHPs, and can drain humidity.

Lighting - The pre-installed fluorescent is fine. I bought a cheap aquarium light, and hot-glued it to the ceiling. I like having multiple color options, and the ability to turn it on from outside the cage.

Bedding: I really like coco husk, like ProCoco or Reptichip. Cypress mulch is also good, but not eco-friendly. Other people use coco mulch, like EcoEarth, though it can get dusty/messy when dry. Reptibark is also fine if you like the look. All are close enough that you can't go wrong whatever you choose.

Fortunately in a PVC enclosure you won't need to worry too much about substrate. I live in a dry state, and can still get away with bare newspaper most of the year. I still use substrate mainly for aesthetics.

I think that covers it? Great questions. Let me know if you have any more! I also recommend reading over _ataraxia's BP care guides. She gives a lot of good advice for beginners.

Welcome,


Congrats on choosing a MBK, I just got a juvenile on Saturday! I've always wanted one but had trouble finding a young one. I have 2 corns, a hognose, and a Cali King. Ever since I got my Cali King, kingsnakes have been my favorites.

1. Tubs are generally better. They hold heat and humidity ALOT better than tanks. That being said, kingsnakes don't have high humidity requirements (~40%-60%), and I haven't had a problem while using something like Reptibark. I prefer tanks, because I'm selfish and enjoy seeing the snakes (when they're out). I don't really see a problem with it as long as you can keep the temperature/humidity requirements right.
   
   
   
2. I use Zoomed ReptiTherm heatpads, never had an issue with them, accomponied by this thermostat. A thermostat is a necessity with heat pads. They will get ridiculously hot and could burn your snake.
   
   
   
3. AFAIK they don't. Every breeder/keeper I've spoken to has said they never used a UVB light for their snakes and haven't had issues, snakes have lived long lives. I'm sure it can't hurt, but I don't use lights for mine.
   
   
   
4. I prefer going to reptile expos if you can find one in your area. Mostly because you can talk to experienced keepers to figure out the best way to keep your reptiles healthy. I usually order my thermostats/heatmats on amazon though.
   
   
   
   I hope you enjoy your new snake, welcome to the community, and I EXPECT PICS. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to help.

the up front costs of setting up the enclosure vary a lot depending on whether you want utilitarian and cheap or aesthetically pleasing and expensive, as well as the quality of the equipment you use. using a corn snake as an example, since i think that's the most beginner-friendly of the three species you listed, you could set up an enclosure for an adult at anywhere between $50 and $500.

i'll give you some examples based on setups i have/had.

low-end:

• 74qt sterilute underbed tub with air holes drilled/soldered in the sides.
  
• luggage straps to secure the tub.
  
• ultratherm UTH [under tank heater].
  
• hydrofarm thermostat to regulate the UTH.
  
• digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer to monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature/humidity.
  
• cheap/free household items like cardboard boxes for hides, paper towels or newspaper for substrate, plastic food container for water, etc.
  
  mid-range:
  
  
• glass tank, generally in the size range of 30gal to 55gal. could be free, cheap, or $100+ depending on what size you get and where you find it. craigslist can get you really cheap tanks, and petco/petsmart have dollar-per-gallon sales often.
  
• an appropriately sized screen lid and sturdy lid clips for the tank. these things can be purchased separately from the tank.
  
• ultratherm UTH.
  
• hydrofarm thermostat to regulate the UTH.
  
• lamp and CHE [ceramic heat emitter] for ambient heat if your room temperature tends to be below 70 F.
  
• digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer to monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature/humidity.
  
• infrared thermometer to spot-check the temperature anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• two reptile basics hide boxes.
  
• metal or ceramic dog bowl for a water dish.
  
• shredded aspen substrate.
  
  high-end:
  
  
• pvc reptile cage. prices vary depending on the manufacturer. animal plastics is generally the cheapest but requires assembly. i have my corn in a boaphile plastics 421D cage, which is bigger than he really needs but i have a stack of cages so i needed size uniformity, and i like to give my snakes more than the minimum requirement of length+width of enclosure being equal to length of snake.
  
• UTH and/or RHP [radiant heat panel], can be included in the purchase of the cage. i only have a UTH because my room temperature stays in the 70-75 F range year round. i recommend an RHP if your room temperature tends to be below 70 F.
  
• herpstat to regulate the temperature. a herpstat intro+ is fine if you only use one heat source, a herpstat 2 would be best if you use two heat sources.
  
• digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer to monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature/humidity.
  
• infrared thermometer to spot-check the temperature anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• naturalistic style hides and water dish, such as this hide and this water dish from exo terra.
  
• additional hides, half-logs, driftwood, artificial plants, etc, to clutter up the enclosure and make it interesting.
  
• naturalistic style substrate like cypress mulch, coconut husk mulch [the big chunky pieces, not the soil-like coconut fiber], fir bark mulch, etc.
  
  then there are basic medical and emergency supplies. i recommend having these things on hand:
  
  
• a good disinfectant for the enclosure. this stuff is the best.
  
• a way to contain/transport your snake outside of the enclosure. this can be a cotton pillowcase, a snake bag, or a small plastic tub with a locking lid and air holes.
  
• uniheat shipping packs for providing heat during a power outage or evacuation.
  
• a spare UTH and basic thermostat, so you're not scrambling to find a replacement if anything breaks.
  
• povidone-iodine [betadine] and an antibiotic ointment without pain relief [neosporin]. these are useful in treating things like minor burns, cuts, scale rot, etc.
  
• provent-a-mite to tackle a mite infestation.
  
  as far as annual costs go, electricity is negligible for one snake, so you're really just dealing with food and substrate. for a corn snake, you're looking at $30-$40 per year if you buy mice from expos, local shops/suppliers, or online bulk suppliers, instead of the way overpriced petco/petsmart/etc. substrate costs depend on what type you buy, how big your enclosure is, how deep you keep the substrate, and how often you do full substrate changes, could be anywhere from $20 to $100 per year.

Great! Looking forward to seeing your new buddy. :)

So, carpet pythons are a tropical species, and as such do require specific temperature ranges and humidity levels. Ideally, it should be about 33c on the warm side, and 22c on the cool side. Normally, people control temperature with thermostats. You put the temperature probe above the heater, inside the warm side's hide, and set the temperature you want it to maintain. Bam - instant temperature control!

The next thing you'll want to do is invest in a digital thermometer and hygrometer combo, ideally something with probes that you can place around the vivarium. This will let you double check temps and humidity around the viv. Long term, the thermostat can measure the warm side and your thermometer/hygrometer can measure it on the cool side.

For humidity, you should be aiming for like 50% - 80%. The hygrometer part of your thermometer/hygrometer measures the humidity level. Grab yourself a spray bottle, fill it with water, and give the viv a good misting when humidity levels get too low.

I'd recommend googling "carpet python care" and reading the entire first page of results. There's a lot of great information from a number of knowledgeable keepers there, and it'll help you figure out which suggestions are actually good, and which ones don't make sense.

Do you mind if I ask what country you live in? Sounds like it probably isn't the US (where I'm from)

Yeah going fake gives you the benefit of something that will last much much longer and has no chance of growing mold and is easy to clean. Good thing is if you're savvy enough and know where to shop, creating a good set up for your snake (aside from the enclosure itself) shouldn't have to break the bank. In the future you will have to shill out some cash for a proper adult enclosure so keep that in mind. For future substrate, the ones I named should be perfectly suited for a BCI since it will need humidity between 60-70%. I would shy away from aspen because it gets soggy easily and is prone to mold growth. Another thing is I suggest getting a ceramic water bowl. Even baby BCI can easily tip over other water bowls and there are some good ones on amazon that are deep and sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3GEO31AZRX3RC&keywords=ceramic+water+bowl&qid=1565353412&s=gateway&sprefix=ceramic+water%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVlpZSUQ1R0lPWUsyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjE5MTNRM1lGQlBQWk1QRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTk1Mjc5MkxYS0NLOVZVMEUySyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

If you have any other snake husbandry questions feel free to DM me. I'd be more than happy to point you in the right direction.

Carpet Python sounds like what you want. I don't know where you heard about feeding problems but generally Carpets are garbage disposals. Jungles and IJs are known to sometimes get stuck on mice but it's not super common. They aren't as sensitive as Ball Pythons are to stress and will not go off feed just because. They're extremely easy to take care of, easier than your Ball Pythons. Humidity is not as big of a concern and as long as you are changing water out regularly (every 2-3 days) and they are staying hydrated you will get nice sheds even in lower humidity.

I recommend you contact Nick Mutton @ Inland Reptile. He's not only the largest Carpet breeder here in the States, but also arguably the best. You will not get a mutt animal from him. All of his stuff is honestly represented and it is what he says it is. He has and provides lineage for all of his animals. He also wrote The Complete Carpet Python, the best book currently out on the complex (which i also recommend you purchase).

Aspen is good for them. They're not a high humidity species and are generally fine with ambient humidity. If it has trouble shedding, you can just add a humid hide box. Give it a basking temp of 85-90F, and the rest of the enclosure will be fine at room temperature (as long as your room stays above 70F or so). I don't have direct experience with pueblan milksnakes, but I know my kingsnake (a very close relative) likes to bask occasionally, and will actually use all the vertical space I give him, both climbing and burrowing. Pueblans stay relatively small, 3-4', so anything in the range of a 40G breeder and up will be fine for them.

General advice for all snakes: You need at least two identical hides, one on the warm side, one on the cool side. These should be small and tight...snakes like to wedge into tiny spaces so they should be able to touch at least three walls of the hide. They should have one entrance, so those half log things are not good hides. The more cluttered the tank the better. They will climb, so give them stuff to climb on, and milks will burrow, so give them at least 3 or 4 inches of substrate.

I recommend overhead heat instead of under tank. It provides a more natural heat gradient that better mimics what they encounter in the wild. The heat source should be something like a ceramic heat emitter or a deep heat projector. Don't use a heat source that puts off visible light because the heat will need to be run 24/7. All heat sources must be on a thermostat. My cheap thermostat recommendation is the Inkbird ITC-306T. My high end recommendation is the Herpstat (I linked the Intro+, but there are higher end models available as well). The difference in the two is that the Inkbird is an on/off type, and the temp will swing a few degrees around the set point, while the Herpstat is proportional and will hold the temp to within a degree of the set point.

If you wish to provide light as well, use either an LED for just light, or if you want to provide UVB as well (not necessary, but may possibly be beneficial), use a 5% or 5.0 UVB bulb (I recommend ZooMed or Arcadia only...some other brands have been show to put out dangerous UVB levels as they age). UVB bulbs need to be replaced periodically because their UVB output will fade as they age. Bulbs that put out visible light should be on a timer to provide a 12/12 day/night cycle.

Finally, feed in the enclosure. Don't move to feed. Moving to feed is based on an old, disproven myth, and causes stress to the snake. And feed frozen/thawed, not live. There is no benefit to live feeding, only danger.

Hi, Thank you for joining. This time the giveaway is over. The winner is u/heatseekingdinosaurs, congratulations! We will PM you, please check your chat.

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If there is any question, please feel free to reach us. Thanks and wish you all a good day.

Ok great, I would love to help out there.

First off, not a sand boa, don't use sand. There are very few reptiles that actually do well on sand, this is not one of them. Aspen will be fantastic.

Lamp vs Pad: Both will do fine. The difference is the lamp will be better at raising the ambient temperate and the basking (surface) temp. The pad will focus more on the ground temp. Ground heat is good for digestion, but most snakes also burrow to escape heat by instinct. The pads are also known to get very hot. A thermostat is pretty much required. On the other hand, you can't have a white bulb running at night. Grab a nocturnal heat bulb (blue, red, purple light).

Personally I usually use both on one side and put them on a thermostat. With a thermostat you really can't go wrong. The thermostat will decrease the lifespan of any incandescent bulb though.

It looks perfectly safe, but I don't know if it would make a good hide... it seems a bit too open, so it'd be a neat decoration, but I wouldn't count on it making a good hide.

I have this one in my hatchling's tank. It serves much better as a hide (thought my snake much prefers his little coconut halves) and still looks really cool.

my set up is as follows and should help you with your set up, assuming you're willing to invest in your animals husbandry and currently use a glass tank with a mesh top.

for each of my snakes I keep in tanks I have cypress mulch bedding, a hygrotherm controller, a reptifogger, a lamp dimmer switch, and a heat bulb that's too high wattage for what I need

I get the extra wattage on the bulb for a few reasons, mostly because it gives me a larger range that I can adjust with the lamp dimmer switch and this way I can easily bump up the temps if any of them start to exhibit RI symptoms.

the hygrotherm sensor is placed inside of the tank right around the middle of the enclosure, I keep it set to maintain 50-60 percent humidity 90% of the time, and when the snake is in shed I bump it up to 80% from the time they start to go blue, to the time they finish sloughing their skin.

by using the hygrotherm/reptifogger combination, it's incredibly easy to keep my snake happy and healthy and still keep them on display so my friends and I can peak in anytime without having to disturb them in a tub.

here are the links for what I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IJXD2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (reptifogger, currently pretty inexpensive relatively speaking)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IHK9Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (hygrotherm controller)

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427830822&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer+switch (dimmer switch)

I'm in the same boat as the OP but I don't have a tank assembled yet! I'm looking at stuff to buy for it though, and I want my snake to feel as safe and comfortable as possible. is this appropriate for a corn snake? The reviews say so, but I figured I'd ask to make sure. I'm also looking at climbing sticks/etc and found this but I don't know how I feel paying $20 for a small stick, lol. Any suggestions?

Two changes - folks always want a thermostat. This thermostat is the same as the HydroFarm stat /u/_ataraxia mentioned, and is a good low end/entry level stat. It's literally the same exact piece of hardware with a different label. Most of my enclosures are on Herpstat thermostats with proportional control. These are sort of the high end of stand-alone thermostats. Some people have also gone on the more computerized, high tech route. If that's interesting to you, it works great, but it's definitely not necessary.

On/off thermostats are actually not suitable for light bulbs, because the bulb will go on and off all the time, sort of strobing. It's fine for non-light emitting heat sources like ceramic heaters and radiant heat panels, although proportional are still more accurate.

pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.

you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)

same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)

if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things

so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.

i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.

About the size, I've got a fairly large enclosure for my wife's little ball python, but there are two hides and lots of clutter, including greenery for him to hide in. Feeding has been a non-issue and he seems totally happy. Generally speaking, I can bet money on finding him in a hide, which is a good sign for them. At night, he's more active (as they're nocturnal by nature), but it's usually drinking, exploring and then back to sleep in a hide. Sometimes he'll climb his vines, sometimes not.

And yes, UTH (in my opinion) needs a thermostat. I've got an Inkbird that allows me to set both the UTH and CHE to the same temps and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZ5NVBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_4L5KskVt1pW1Y

Hello everyone,

Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).

I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...

...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.

At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).

Concerns:

Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).

When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.

1. Is the moisture collecting at the base of the tank a problem?
   
   
2. Is it normal for a hognose to spend time buried and feeling "anti-social" when first moved to a new environment?
   
   
3. Is this substrate okay? I only read after purchasing the ReptiChip that hognose may prefer shredded aspen.
   
   
4. What's the temperature for the heading pad and lighting area (I see this called a "basking area")? In the link above I see 90 degrees F
   
   
5. I got this thermometer. Is there anything else (humidity checker) that I need to purchase?
   
   Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.

Thank you for responding! I really want to know what I can do to help my snake, as I've been worried something is wrong..... I made a list with the exact things that I have bought!

I have this terrarium

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N9LRCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this heating mat on one half (covers around 40% of the tank)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X8WLYD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with this thermometer that controls the heat (max is 93 F) and cool side is 75-80

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and i made a humidity box (as shown by Youtube account SnakeEncounters) with this moss that I spray to make humid- I have seen my snake in there twice now, she likes to sleep there for a couple hours and leave.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CX5QB82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I use this hide (one on cool side, one on warm side)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVKJ3B1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this bedding

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KJ0A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I use these vines to make the enclosure feel more covered and less "open"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YEB70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You've got good advice already - thermostat to safely regulate the cage heat (a cheap one like this works), a cool side hide, a warm side hide, lots of clutter (wood, fake plants, etc.) around the cage so your snake can feel securely "hidden" even while not in a hide, and a hygrometer & thermometer (like this one) so you can keep an eye on the cage temperature and humidity. <- (proper humidity is important for ball pythons so they can shed well and so they don't get dehydrated)

For a retained eyecap you can try the old warm-damp-towel-in-a-pillowcase trick: wet a towel with warm water, squeeze it out so it's not sopping wet, drop it in a pillowcase, add your snake, tie closed, and let your snake slither around in there for 15-30 minutes or so. The warmth, moisture, and gentle friction from the towel can loosen stuck shed.

Edit: fixed the links.

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

Unfortunately, there are more important criteria to consider when setting up a new snake aside from what you like the look of-like what will work best in the enclosure and what will give the snake the best quality of life. Just having it pushed against the back isn't a very efficient solution; after all, it can be moved, and in a clear glass tank, it can still feel exposed. Many experienced keepers also recommend having two identical hides so the snake doesn't have to choose between security and temperature, but as far as I'm concerned, as long as you've got two appropriately sized single-entrance hides, you should be okay. I use these with a few of my snakes, they work well too.

Have you read any of the care sheets online and on the sidebar regarding these things?

If you're using bulbs, go with ceramic heat emitters. They dont emit light, and can be used 24/7 to maintain heat without disturbing sleep.

It would be a good idea to get a heat lamp that has a dimmer built in so that you can scale how much power is going to the bulb. Like this

You will also need thermometers, hygrometers, and thermostats.

I had the same issues with my RTB in a glass terrarium. 3 things will help you immensely. 1: Get some closed cell construction foam sheeting from Lowes and line the back, bottom, and sides of the habitat. 2: Get some plexiglass and cover part of the top. I have several sheets so I can adjust the air/humidity. I maintain 60-80% RH with only half covered because of the next tip. 3: Get an ultrasonic mister element. Some people say their snakes won't drink/bathe if the fogger is in their drinking water (and they make external mount ones as well), by my snake puts her head on top of the fogger. haha.
Photos 1 2 3

I have used the thermostat you linked for 2-ish years without a single problem. I also recently purchased this even cheaper but functionally identical thermostat, and it's been working perfectly for the last week.

It's okay! Take a deep breath. :) The plastic concern is about the socket that the bulb screws into, inside of the dome. If the socket is plastic, you'd need a different dome fixture, not a different tank.

I suggested a chick brooding fixture because I figured you probably have access or Tractor Supply or a feed store, but if not that's no problem. They sell them at hardware stores too. Here is an example from Home Depot. It doesn't specifically have to be this.

Here's an example of a ceramic bulb

If the tank lid / screen is plastic, I do not know if you can put the dome directly on the lid, sorry. I would clip or hang the fixture so it isn't sitting directly on the tank if you can. This will also make it easier to open the lid.

Consider getting something like this. You can pick your size. They are relatively cheap. Hard to tip over and I think they are an attractive solution.

Ethical 5-Inch Stoneware Crock Dog Dish

Searching.... searching..... this!
And it's on sale. Lucky you. :)

I have ball pythons not sand boas, but what I use for ambient heat is a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). You would need a dome with a ceramic base because they can get very hot. I use this one , and the CHE can also be found on Amazon like this one . I also have mine on a dimming thermostat, since on/off thermostats can wear out the bulbs, but those can be pricey. I know some people will just use the dimmer knob for the dome, but you will need an infrared heat gun to check surface temps and adjust to make sure it’s not too hot, and check it regularly as it won’t adjust itself if your ambient temperature in your room fluctuates.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQD9A

Honestly this really is a much safer/better trustworthy product, the rheostat only has three settings whereas this can be set almost anywhere on the board. its an on/off style thermostat. ( Rheostats basically throttle electricity versus cut it off)

Well the CHE screws into the fixture. A CHE is basically just another kind of bulb that doesn't give off light so you need a fixture to screw it into and then the fixture gets plugged into the thermostat and the thermostat gets plugged into the outlet.

There are two basic kinds of fixtures for this. This type is what you want if you have a metal mesh lid on a glass tank. It will be on top of the lid aimed down into the cage. This type is used for wood or pvc cages with solid ceilings. The fixture will be mounted inside the cage on the ceiling and then have a metal safety cage installed around the fixture/bulb.

here is the thermostat that I have always used. it’s a good price and I haven’t had any issues with it

and here are the thermometer/hygrometer combos that I use. one on the hot side, and one on the cool side.

Complete Carpet Python :)

The complete carpet python for those who keep or are interested in carpets

Buy a cheap one with a probe, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=asc_df_B01E9IO6N05275096/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01E9IO6N0&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167136460722&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13010233772576447830&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023186&hvtargid=pla-314499111251

I'm a fan of the ZooMed ReptiTemp 500R.

http://exoticpets.about.com/od/reptilesandamphibians/qt/humidityhide.htm

this is better than nothing. you can build one cheaply, and it will give your snake a place to go to get hydrated. Ball Pythons are tropical species, so they need to have a relatively high humidity. I try to keep mine around 60%, and go a little higher than that if they are having trouble shedding.
I would recommend getting a cage that is designed to keep humidity in, but mine cost me a little over 200 bucks, so that may be a no go for now.
I have also used a hygrotherm (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HygroTherm-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0019IHK9Q) / reptifogger (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Terrarium-Humidifier/dp/B0019IJXD2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y) combo, which comes out to about 150 bucks.
Other than that buy a humidifier and put it in the snakes room, (preferably not in the cage), or get a spray water bottle and mist the cage a few times a day, and build a humidity box for the snake. (by far the cheapest option)
A healthy ball python will not have wrinkles or folds on the inside of where it's bent outside of shed. If it has wrinkles and isn't shedding then it is dehydrated.

Thermostat

And for an UTH just get one from zoomed, I've never had a problem with theirs before.

This is the thermostat I am using: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-40-108-Degrees-Fahrenheit-Germination/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=ipower+thermostat&qid=1565799414&s=gateway&sprefix=ipower+the&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ1pES05SRzg3TTdPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDc5NDIzM1BXSEhKNVBENjQ5UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODE0MTEzMVY4UlJTMTFIQlE2QiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

And if it matters for the CHE, my ambient room temperature is around 67-69F.

Since you already have a UTH, all you need is a thermostat/rheostat such as these:

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378371&sr=8-1&keywords=uth+thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Remote-Thermostat/dp/B0002AQD9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-1&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11939-Temperature-Controller-1000-Watt/dp/B002CZ0J3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-4&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti-Temperature-Rheostat/dp/B0002AQD0Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-2&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat

Oh that’s what I meant, I have this one on its way

Humidity should be fine for a corn. The heat mat is most likely the issue.

You should have it on an actual thermostat that will regulate it. Off and on doesn't do any good if it still reaches high temps since it only takes a few minutes for a heat mat to heat up to full temp, which can easily be 110-115 or more. Anything over 105 can cause permanent nerve and brain damage due to them not being able to self regulate their body heat. If you turn it off for 15 minutes 6 times a day, that's still 22.5 hours at full temp.

You also need to measure the actual floor, and not just the substrate. If you have an IR thermometer, move the substrate aside and actually measure the temp of the tank surface. Corn snakes will burrow and if you only measure away from the heat mat you'll never get an accurate temp of what the snake could be laying against if it burrows down to it.

There are absolutely FAR better thermostats than this one, but this is not a terrible one to get and dirt cheap. I hot glue the probe to the floor over the hottest part of the heat mat.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a mixed substrate of plantation soil and wet forest moss to hold most of the humidity, keep a giant tub of water in the hot end, and have a damp towel over the entire top of the enclosure (the front has vents).

For the first 4-5 years I used an ultrasonic humidifier that I hooked to the top with tubes, but that thing died. I've recently equipped an Exo-Terra misting system that seems to do the trick, but I'm cautious as I've read mixed reviews.


Edit: There are products like this and this that would probably be for small enclosures.

This is the one I have for my 100 gallon.

You don't need a "night light", you want your snake to have darkness at night. Light and heat should be from two separate sources, and make sure your heat source is always controlled by a thermostat. If your room does not receive ambient lighting from a window, etc. you can use something as simple as a clamp lamp with an led light bulb screwed into it, plugged into an outlet timer. As long as the light is not overly bright (grow lights or aquarium fixtures can be too bright) and your snake has a place(s) to seek shelter this will work fine.