(Part 2) Best products from r/soapmaking

The chemistry of making soap is just simple saponification a book like this would probably help. Scientific Soapmaking: The Chemistry of the Cold Process https://www.amazon.com/dp/1935652095/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t6GFAbDRF0CTQ if you really want to go in depth there are engineering books on soap as well. Soap Manufacturing Technology, Second Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1630670650/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_68GFAbVMD7SK7 this would be really in depth and probably cover modern soap and surfactant chemistry as well. My specialty is mostly Hair Color and personal care, i’ve only begun making soap recently. Beside when i was a kid and we made soap from rendered animals.

I've just done a few batches, the easiest was 100% coconut or the recipes that have been predominantly coconut. I'm sure there's a chart somewhere out there with very specific times. The BEST liquid soap resource I have found is this gem http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1580172431?pc_redir=1409141248&robot_redir=1

The kit isn't bad, however, I'm not crazy about the scale, it can only hold 3kg. I'd much rather see you get a scale that will hold 5kg. (they're not expensive).


Also not crazy about the "blend of oils". You'll get much more for your money if you choose a recipe that has some common oils used and buy them separately (olive, coconut, shea butter, palm/castor).

Also you will certainly want a stick blender, which is $15-20. This is a must have, not sure why the kit doesn't include it.

Anyway, if you think this is something that you will stick with and want to make more, I suggest buying your own quality stuff.

Stick Blender - $15 (Proctor silex at Walmart)

Digital scale $12 (linked above)

Digital Thermometer - $9 (Taylor waterproof - look on Amazon)

Goggles - $2 (amazon)

Isopropyl Alcohol - $3 (Walmart)

Spoons/silicone spatulas/bowls/cups - Dollar store - maybe $7?

Gloves (box of disposables) $4 (Walmart)

Mold $12 (Amazon)

Lye $10


Distilled water $1 (Walmart)


Oil will cost you less per oz if you buy in quantity, but even "regular" sizes of olive/coconut/shea butter/palm (Palm oil is a bit controversial because of sustainability concerns, all you can really do besides avoiding it altogether is buy from reputable companies that state that their Palm oil is RSPO certified) will cost you around $50 (Walmart and Amazon).


All told you're still under $100 and you've got a great kit that's got a lot more in it (more oil, blender, thermometer, bowls, etc).

It doesn't come with fragrance or lavender buds, but you can add some essential oil for a few dollars more and for what it's worth, I strongly suggest your first batch should be scent-free and color-free. Get your basic soap recipe the way you want it, then add scent, color, etc.

Clumping can be an issue with all oxides I no longer use oxides but when I did, I also found titanium dioxide clumped more than others. What worked perfectly for me was pre-mixing with a select amount of olive (only a small amount is needed) using a mini frother: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MDY2UXQ?psc=1 This should definitely remove all the clumps in the finished product.

I made a bar fashioned after Japanese clay facial soap that has bentonite clay, kaolin clay, activated charcoal, and some light scent to it. I've got friends who have very sensitive skin and they've had no reaction to it, and it's helped clear up my roommate's acne.

I'll try and find the recipe for the actual bar, but I'm pretty sure I used a standard olive/coconut/castor/tallow mix.

Edit: basically I made a copycat of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-clay-charcoal-facial-soap/dp/B0007OH3QI

Thanks.

I was already aware that in general you could use mica for soap. I was curious if there was something special about Crafter's Choice or other soap supply versions of mica, compared to something like this that's marketed for stamping.

Smart Soapmaking, Cool Soapmaking, and Castile Soapmaking, by Anne L. Watson. Also her lotion and goat milk soap books if you want to splurge on the complete set.

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Soapmaking-Reliably-Luxurious-Yourself/dp/1620355116/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

I get my soap labels from https://www.onlinelabels.com/

I use free boxes from USPS. Order them online from their website. I use regular butcher paper for packing the boxes.

The one expensive item I laid out for was a Rollo thermal printer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MA3EYC5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I get my 4x6 thermal shipping labels from Amazon as well.

Also, I ALWAYS use https://www.pirateship.com/ for pricing and creating the shipping labels.

I keep mine on a wire shelving unit leftover from my college days (similarish to this
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06Y3M91XD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_uVMFzb0HH8QPN but with smaller spaces between the wires). I have no idea what kind of coating (if any) the metal has, so I lined the bottoms with parchment paper. Like you, I've only been soaping for a few months, but I haven't had any problems with reaction/rust. My soaps currently live in my bedroom, partially hidden from sunlight (due to space; I didn't even think about light when positioning it, to be honest). I keep my ceiling fan on all the time, and since I live in a humid climate, I also got a little mini dehumidifier that sits right next to the soap (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LVN7BM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_XYMFzb9PQ3QDM). I haven't experienced any orange spots.

If you find a cheap shelving system that's otherwise perfect, you might be able to rig up some inexpensive fabric curtains that would still allow for air flow but block some light.

I use the Canon ip8720 and it has worked really well with cardstock since it loads through the top. I've printed hundreds of labels and the ink is still going strong.

Yes, I know the shape you’re talking about..I’ll keep an eye out for that shape, and if I see it, I’ll send it to you!

Yes, I think amazon may even have kits for you to make your own molds somehow..

Edit: I think this may be it or close..
I just searched “curved soap molds”.
Note: I haven’t checked if this seller is reliable or not.

https://www.littlegreenworkshops.com.au/product/curved-oval-bar-silicone-mould/


Edit: also this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B68LNJP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pSCzDbYAPTFST

I don't know. I would hate to do that to you. I'm trying a new mold making goop since I need the pourable kind and usually do a more putty like one. I'm using this stuff so honestly, I don't know how much cheaper mine will turn out than the one you saw online. I am also not fast about things, I carved the bar about three weeks ago and still haven't molded. Let me see if I have this down right and then we'll talk. It might be the easiest thing to do is send you a bar that's been molded and you can take it from there. :D

I molded most of them in plain, rectangle individual molds because of the challenges in cutting salt bars. Here is the 6 plain bar rectangle molds I used. With the extra soap I had, I put the rest into some individual molds that have an impression on them. Here is the 6 bar impression molds I used.

The marbling technique I used was an in-the-pot swirl. 3/4 of my batter was colored with rose clay, 1/4 with titanium dioxide. I poured the white mix into the pink batter in equalish amounts at 12, 4, and 8 as spots on the clock, so to speak. At one spot, I poured high at about 6" above the batter, the next I poured medium at about 3" above, and the final I poured as close to the batter as possible; this makes it so the white gets dispersed at different depths of the pot and doesn't just float all at one level.

Next, I took a spatula and pushed into spot with the closest drop, pushed the spatula to the bottom on the bowl, and swirled once clockwise thru all the dots, meeting back at the center of the original spot, and pulled straight back out. That's it.

From there, I just poured my mix directly into the center of each individual mold, filling them slightly over full. I overfill slightly because I take one of those spatula frosters used for cakes and use it as a squeegee or a trowel, and level the soaps with a clean pass across each soap top. Any extra soap that comes off, I will use to fill an extra small mold so I don't waste soap. Spray with alcohol every 15 minutes for the first hour, and I also forced these thru gel phase to get the colors to pop more!

Voila!

Assuming you're using real soap and not M&P, don't use aluminum, FWIW. It will react with the lye.

This looks pretty good:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-12-All-Purpose-Refillable-Containers/dp/B07BKPDQ44/

Is this the book that you're referring to?

You could try Kevin Dunn. I haven't read it, but some of my soapmaker acquaintances swear on it.