Best products from r/somethingimade

We found 30 comments on r/somethingimade discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 268 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments mentioning products on r/somethingimade:

u/smallbatchb · 39 pointsr/somethingimade

Thanks!

You can start pretty simple. All you HAVE to have is a decent knife. A simple Mora knife is what I use a lot. You can always go for nicer knives if you prefer but a Mora will do wonders because of the Scandi grind edge. Any sharp knife will carve but I personally recommend knives with a Scandi grind because they can cut deeper and they offer more controlled cuts.

Here are my typical spoon carving tools

Gransfors Brooks wildlife hatchet but you can use cheaper options like a Fiskars hatchet. You don't HAVE to have a hatchet, it just helps take out large waste pieces quicker.

Mora knife for general shaping and carving.

  • Alternatively, the Mora Eldris is another good carving option with a grippier rubber handle, contemporary colors and a shorter blade. Also the whole thing is basically waterproof so you don't have to worry about the handle or metal getting wet or anything. It's also small enough to pretty comfortably fit in a pocket.

    Pfeil palm gouge for scooping out the bowls of spoons. This CAN be done with the knife but it is a huge pain. You could also Dremel the bowl out if you have one and don't want to buy a gouge.

    Opinel folding saw for making stop cuts and cutting wood to length. Any wood saw will do though.

    Other than that just some sandpaper and some food safe oil like mineral oil or Howard's butcher block conditioner to finish it off and make it water resistant.

    Resources

    Here is a great video of Jill Swan showing how to carve a spoon with a hatchet, saw, knife, and gouge.

    Here is a video with Ben Orford showing his process for carving a spoon as well. He uses a hook knife instead of a gouge for scooping the bowl out. Both methods work but I find a palm gouge to be easier to work with and a bit easier to sharpen.

    Here is a video with Barn The Spoon using an axe a knife and a hook-knife.

    If you don't want to spend the money on a gouge or a hook knife then you can always carve a Spatula because they don't require a bowl!

    TIPS

    You can avoid using an axe by using a saw to make a series of stop cuts and then sawing down or using your knife to "baton" off the side pieces. You can also just knife carve the whole thing with a knife but it will take way more time.

    Wood: make sure your wood is food safe. Most fruit woods and oak and maple or birch are perfectly safe. Here is a list of common spoon carving woods

  • I personally prefer using Birch because it looks nice, is pretty tough, food safe, and is quite enjoyable to carve both green or seasoned.

  • I personally suggest carving seasoned wood because you don't have to worry about it potentially splitting or cracking while it dries. Greenwood is WAY WAY easier to carve but putting in all the work just to have a spoon crack can be heart breaking. If you are going to carve seasoned wood then you also want to make sure you aren't choosing a super hard wood that will be a huge pain to carve. This is another reason I love Birch. Maple is also pretty easy to carve seasoned but a little harder and can tear out if your tools aren't super sharp.

    Make sure your tools are sharp! A super sharp knife, hatchet, and gouge not only makes the work a lot easier and enjoyable but also a lot safer because you have way less chance of slipping. There are tons of videos on youtube on how to sharpen knives, specifically scandi grind knives, hatchets, and gouges.

    Just have fun! Your first couple of project may not come out beautiful but you will get the hang of it.
u/penguindeskjob · 1 pointr/somethingimade

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you!

So there's a bunch of different resources. I started out with a simple set of instructions on how to make cider out of prebought apple juice. Googling "How to make wine" gives you a lot of different things.

And I'm not trying to say, "Google it yourself you lazy bastard." There's a lot to learn about making wine, and there's a lot of resources to get you started. I wouldn't just read one recipe. I'd read a bunch of them.

Here are the basics: Brewing alcohol is a chemical process where enzymes within yeast convert carbohydrates into CO2 and alcohol. They're the showrunners. You want to give them the best possible life you can. Keep in mind that alcohol is a sterilizer, so it will kill of the yeast if there's too much. For brewing, not distilling, the upper limit is 15% alcohol by volume. If there's too much alcohol, there's leftover sugar and the yeast dies. You can put in too much sugar that'll leave a sweet, burning flavor, but the good news is that you cannot put in too much yeast. It doesn't speed it up or hurt it, so I just use a packet of yeast.

The first thing is: Sanitize, not sterilize. Clean everything, even your hands, thoroughly through all the steps. Using wild or homegrown grapes can introduce wild yeasts and other molds into the mix, so you want to wash them thoroughly before the mashing begins and boil the juice to kill any strays.

I started out with a 10 pack of champagne yeast from Amazon and a bag of balloons from the dollar store. You can get better and more professional equipment as time goes on, but I'd say start small and cheap. Also, do not use bread yeast for winemaking. For cider, it's hardly going to make that much of a difference, but something like wine, you want to use a strain that's suited for it.

So, I'll give you a quick rundown: Go to Lowes or some home improvement store or homebrewing shop. Get a 1 gallon foodgrade tub, reuse a 1-gallon glass jug, or use a 1-gallon jug of purified water from a grocery store. If you reuse anything plastic, make sure it has a triangle with 1 in it. Clean it thoroughly with bleach or hot soap and water, though I prefer StarSan. It's a food-grade, non-toxic no-rinse solution. Mix 1 oz with 1 gallon warm water, gets all sudsy, and coat everything you're using with it. Let it dry. You're done. Bleach takes time because you will have to rinse and you'll have to wait for the bleach scent to dissipitate.

If you go to Lowes or anywhere like that, get a about 3-5 feet of clear, vinyl tubing. I grapped a few feet from 3/8" tubing that was on clearance, though it should run you less than five dollars no matter what.

Bust out a large pot, some cheesecloth or a metal mesh strainer.

Next level tools: Hydrometer, which is used to check the amount of sugar in it. A triple scale gives you the specific gravity, Brix, and potential ABV. They're all related in some way, which is good. I start somewhere around 13% ABV, but here's a site that breaks it down better than I could..

This is what I did, adopoted for an open-ended recipe:

  • Separate grapes from stems. Toss out any that look moldy or have split already or have shriveled up entirely. If there's a black mark on it, it's still fine. Get about 3-4 pounds per gallon of water. Rinse thoroughly with cool water, if you have Star San on hand, wouldn't hurt to wash them with a little of that and rinse it off.
  • Mash the grapes up, separating the pulp and seeds from the skin^1. If you're making red wine, retain the skins. If you're making white wine, discard. Best to discard the seeds as they'll impart a bitter flavor. Strain through the wire mesh carefully, as you'll build up a bunch of gunk. White grapes will become cloudy and brown as they oxidize. That's fine. Bring to a boil then simmer, stirring in your sugar into the mix to sweeten. Use approximately 2-3 cups.
  • Once cooled, strain into container and return skins if you're making red wine and add filtered water. You can keep the skins in a mesh bag or a little "teabag" made out of cheesecloth^1. It's okay if it floats. Use the hydrometer to check where you stand, stir in more sugar if necessary (I prefer using simple syrup, but it's fine no matter what).
  • Take about half a cup of your solution, add the yeast and wait 10-20 minutes until it starts bubbling. Pour into your mixture and stir in. For a jug, just put back on the cap and shake or swirl vigorously and then remove the lid. If you're using a food-grade bin, just stir with a spoon.
  • If you're using a food-grade bin, secure the lid and find a way to secure your balloon there. For a repurposed 1-gallon jug, just stretch the balloon over the top and poke a some holes into it with a sterilized push-pin.
  • Put it somewhere cool (63 F degrees is ideal, but I keep it in a cupboard in my kitchen which is usually in the low 70s F).

    ^1 You can also put the grapes into a fermentation bag or a mesh sack made from cheesecloth and squeeze out that way, keeping it to add back into the must once it's cooled. You can do it however you want.

    And wait.

    Like, 5-7 days. Transfer from one vessel into another by siphoning with your vinyl tube into a sanitized container of the same size. Affix another airlock. Wait at least 2 weeks to a month. Fermentation doesn't really stop. Transferring, or "racking," is helpful as you separate the "lees", or left-over crap of dead yeast and plant matter, behind. You don't want that to come with you. Each time you rack your wine, you'll have less lees than the previous time. You should only have to rack once or twice before you put it into your bottle. Once you seal the bottle, free oxygen can't just get in, so fermentation is effectively stopped. Corking lets in very minute amounts, while screw tops are a pretty solid seal. The reasoning is this: Aging is a settling process and a slow fermentation of any leftover sugars. Introducing oxygen back into the system allows aging to speed up, but too much and the wine spoils. Too little or not at all, and it just takes longer for it to happen.

    If you have a hydrometer, check to make sure the specific gravity is less than 1 but above .995. That's sort of the "sweet" spot for wine. Taste it, also. It'll require some aging and breathing to taste good, but that's a better indicator than anything else really. Once you're comfortable, transfer into wine bottles and cork or seal however you want. Corks are cheap, and a handcorker is the simplest instrument I could find that requires very little effort.

    And then age for a while. Or be impatient like I am, but let it breathe before you start drinking.

    Then when you feel comfortable, start getting the good stuff. I haven't got that far yet, where you get the Campden tablets (a better sanitizer) and the yeast nutrients and the autocane and the acid blends. Some people start with kits. I started with cider and moved up. It was low effort and low cost. I wasn't sure if it was something I had time for or patience for, so investing heavily upfront wasn't a good idea.

    I know there's a lot of words here. If you want better resources to get started, check out /r/winemaking and /r/homebrewing. Look up wine recipes and check out the myriad of homebrewing forums. Don't get overwhelmed and don't get ambitious. Start small and then go big.
u/scottfishel · 1 pointr/somethingimade

To;dr: I spent a whole bunch of time putting together some custom lights for my setup. If you want to know more, read on. If you want to see the pretty pictures, click the links. Here’s one that shows the setup from the back of the room, and here is one from the front.

Intro

Some of you might recallmy last post. Well, I have finally found the light (forgive the bad dad jokes) at the end of the tunnel.

I took me basically the entire summer and a bit of the fall to get my system back up and running. Thankfully I have a old ‘65 Maggie in my living room that I spin from time to time when I’m desiring nostalgia. It took me as long as it did because I have a pretty busy life, but also because like Billy Joel, I go to extremes.

Like I said in my last post, I decided to replace all of my kallax because they apparently discontinued the natural color. I decided to go with a 3x4 and two 4x4s so my collection would have some room to grow. Since everything was boxed up, I also decided it would be a good time to wire in lights and stoppers.

Selection

I started to look at rope lights, but ultimately decided against them for a few reasons. First, I bought some, tested them, left them on for a while and felt that they were just putting off too much heat. Second, I really wanted them in the front, illuminating from above, and I didn’t just want to string them across the entire front. I like to put new records, favorite records or records I want to remember to listen to in front of the others for display. That and album artwork is fucking awesome. I quickly decided I wanted something to come from the back of the cabinet inside each cubby to just light up that top lip. I looked a bit, but wasn’t really finding exactly what I was looking for, so I figured out that I would probably be doing it on my own.

It was about this time that I decided that if I was going to put time into this, I may as well go for smart lights (Alexa already controls most everything in my house) and I may as well do color (that also reacts to the music, does strobes...). Because, well, it kind of matches the inherent extravagance of records collection itself.

I ended up going with these lights. .

Issues / Creating

Honestly, there’s a shit ton of variations for these lights, but they’re all probably made in the same shop, so I recommend buying one and testing it out. One thing I’ve learned after spending a decent amount of time with smart home stuff is that sometimes people in reviews have no idea what they’re talking about. “Didn’t work at all” or couldn’t get it to connect usually means “I know nothing about WiFi and therefore didn’t know that most of this stuff won’t run on a 5ghz channel, and my network isn’t set up so it will connect to 2.4. That is all to say that I noticed a number of bad reviews, bought them anyway (knowing Amazons return policy) and had absolutely no problem.

So, my plan was to use the junctions, clips and wires to build harnesses that would run all the power on the back of the kallax, with a wired clip running to the location that I wanted each light, and the remaining lights on the sides of of the stereo equipment, and then across the tops illuminating the box sets and legos.

Here’s where pain in the ass #1 comes in. The clips work well with the strips and the junctions, but they don’t connect directly to the wires. This was especially awesome because the wire that I bought fucking came with clips. Oh well. What that means is soldering, and a ridiculous amount of it.

I don’t mind soldering. In fact I find it therapeutic. However, this is 42 strips that each connect to at least one junction, in addition to jumpers between sections so they could all be controlled by two WiFi controllers. Next, the connections are all really small, and there are four of them for every single one. All in all, I believe that it ends up around 400 soldered connections.

So, one strip accepts the power from the controller. At the end of that strip is a clip with wires soldered. At the end of those wires is either a four way junction with wires either going to another strip, or to another junction that powers two more strips. That would do one vertical section of the kallax. One of the strips that is powered from that would have another clip and wire connected to the other end that jumped to another vertical section. Heres a photo showing a section being built and strips being powered at different sections.

To create each individual strip, the roll can be cut at certain points, and the rubber coating can be peeled and cut so it can be inserted into the clips. It’s obvious where to cut because there is a metallic connection with a dotted line through it. Every so often there is on that, rather than the copper connection, it’s a soldered and sealed connection. That can be cut and stripped like the others, but you’ll need to invest in a cheap solder sucker or wick to desolder that point or it won’t fit into the clips. I planned on doing this tutorial when I started to work on the project, and tried to remember to take pictures to illustrate. For some reason, this was the only one I took of a clip being soldered to a wire, and it’s the shittiest job, I’ve ever seen, so I’m going to assume it was done at the end of a session where many connections were created, and many beers were consumed.

Tips

I thought I would try to make this as a DIY thing, but it’s also soldering, which is more of a DIY after you practice sort of thing. That being said, it is something that anyone can do with the right patience, tools and a couple of hints.

Tip #1. Constantly test everything. If you test every connection immediately after making it, you can address your mistakes immediately. If you wait until you do a whole bunch, you end up having no idea what’s causing the problem.

Tip #2. Tin everything. This is the first thing you learn when learning to solder. Basically, this means you apply solder to both thing you want to join before you join them. This is me tinning a junction and some wires before connecting them.

Tip #3. Tape everything that you can. Whenever you solder things you want to make a physical connection (wrap the wire around what you’re soldering to). You can’t really do that here, so the tape helps in making the connections a little stronger. In the case of the junctions, the tape also insulates. The voltage is pretty minimal, but you still need to cover that up.

Installation

The strips have a self adhesive backing. which actually works pretty well. The wires running along the inside I decided to just use electrical tape. This has proven to have some mixed results, especially in the fronts where I was covering the white clips. I may eventually use them more like straps, stapling the ends.

Pain in the ass #2 - the clips pretty much just suck in general. I’ve run into a number of situations where the contacts aren’t holding against the strips tight enough, and they flake out a bit. This causes a bit of tinkering from time to time. Also, the space where the connection is made is pretty small, so a small shift and you lose one (blue being on one end).

This brings me to the big thing I would have done differently. I would have skipped the clips entirely and soldered the wires directly to the strips. I was avoiding doing this because I thought that I could run into situations where a strip would eventually go bad, and this would make it so I could switch it out. I think now that headache would have been minimal compared to the headache of setting them all up.

All in all, I’m pretty happy with it. I don’t use the color functions too often, but I have turned it to the sound reaction setting, and it’s pretty cool. I just need to get the remaining pictures and art on the wall and my basement will be ready to go (until I get around to finishing the bedroom and bathroom stubbed in the unfinished portion).

Thanks for reading if you made it this far. Hope it’s helpful for someone. I’ll be glad to fill in any details that you’re curious about.

u/RhapsodyQ · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

I had a few people ask for some pointers to get started, so here they are:

I found a few step by step tutorials that are great for listing everything you need and the basics of a stitch:

Tutorial 1

Tutorial 2

The only things I would add are:

  • I usually knot my thread before I put it in the cloth, but that's partly because i don't care too much about how it turns out on the back. A lot of avid cross stitchers are very serious about keeping the back of the cloth just as neat and tidy as the front, and not knotting the thread before you begin can help with that.

  • Use masking tape around the edges to keep them from fraying
  • Do not underestimate the usefullness of a hoop! Especially for bigger projects
  • Definitely make all your X's in the same direction. The finished picture will look much more polished.
  • When you finish everything in a pattern, it may or may not tell you to backstitch around parts to clean up the edges. This is basically means you make an outline around the shape or figures (think black lines in a coloring book). If you used 3 strands of floss for the main pattern, I would use one less for the back stitch.

    Your best bet is either finding a small free pattern online, or going to a craft store like Joann's and getting a kit. The patterns in the kits will give you everything you need. The pattern will be in black and white and each square will have a symbol that represents a certain color (either a specific color that came in the kit or the number of the color floss, which will most likely be DMC).

    A few easy patterns I found:

    Mr. Robot

    Beats by Ducky

    If anyone gets started and has more questions I'd be happy to help. Have fun!
u/toohotformariokart · 3 pointsr/somethingimade

Not OP but I'm happy to answer some of these questions for you.

Start by getting a hoop and some embroidery floss and then practice stitches on any scrap fabric you're able to get your hands on. You can get supplies online, at a local craft store or (most likely) your local walmart type store.

/r/embroidery is full of advice and sources including this one which has great video tutorials of a lot of stitches. There are tons of other tutorials on Youtube so you can always just search youtube for a specific stitch you're interested in. And many of these lovely stitches aren't necessarily as difficult as you'd expect at first sight. For example the spider web is very common and much more fun and simple than many people first expect. If a tutorial isn't making something clear there is always another on the magnificent Internet.

You can also find embroidery patterns online. I've seen free vintage ones around and I know there are some for sale on etsy as well as websites like this one. To start I'd recommend flowers, letters, or anything else that comes in a package pattern but allows you to try one small piece at a time.

But really just get the materials and mess around. Its tons of fun.

u/rachycarebear · 1 pointr/somethingimade

Peaches N Creme isn't that popular. I think Wal Mart carries it, but AC Moore seems to be ridding themselves of their stock. I've never done knitpicks - I'd love to, but I know if I start I'm going to get hooked and we'll be broke in no time. It's easier to practice self control when you're shopping in person.

I haven't been to /r/crossstitch in ages and ages - and I just realized it's because I'm not subscribed on this account :o I will have to remedy that posthaste.

Knitting took a few tries to click, but using the knitting help videos for continental method was what did it for me. And once I got the purl/knit stitches down, the rest of it isn't as complex. I'm definitely still learning, though - I wouldn't be comfortable sending a knitted gift to my giftee at this point.

Re: buttons - thanks! I used magnetic closures, like these. I really really really wanted it to look okay like that but it just didn't, so I did a basic magic circle with I want to say 12 hdc? Don't recall exactly, I just eyeballed it.

Crafting subs are the best! Small, tight communities that are super friendly and as addicted to crafting as I am!

u/Knovocaine · 19 pointsr/somethingimade

Alright guys, so here is a brief walk-through/parts list for making one for the princess in your life!

First off: The parts! (these are just the parts I used, if you can find alternatives you think would work better, go for it. I didn't really shop around too hard)


  1. Plymor Brand Glass Doll Display Dome with Walnut Base - 5.5" x 10"

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006XIQT7G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

    You can get smaller ones for much cheaper, but it's for valentine's day, so I decided to go with a larger dome.

  2. Louis Garden 17" Artificial Silk Flowers Fake Rose (1, Red)

    http://www.amazon.com/Louis-Garden-Artificial-Silk-Flowers/dp/B00YY0B2DG/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1452834689&sr=1-2&keywords=Louis+Garden+17%22+Artificial+Flowers+Fake+Rose+-+Red

    I actually ordered a two pack for this price when it was on sale I guess, and used the extra rose for the petals on the base.

  3. BZONE Led String Starry Light Copper Wire Lights Decorative Lights(20 Leds, Warm White, 7ft)

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUVAGDO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

    You definitely don't need all 20 LEDs, but it was the shortest string I could find. More on that later. If you can find one with green wire it would look even better, but the ones I found were almost twice as expensive!

    TOTAL PRICE: $47.50 ---- People sell them online for about $100 all put together, but I didn't feel like shelling out that much for such a simple concept.

    Next: The build!

    I said the build was really straight-forward, and I meant it :)

  4. Drill a hole a tiny bit wider than the diameter of the stem of the rose through the center of the wooden stand for the glass dome.

  5. Cut the stem of the rose to a length that fits inside the dome. Don't go too short, you can always cut off more, but you can't add it back on! I also decided to remove one set of leaves from the stem. It originally had two clusters with three leaves each, but I wanted a more simple looking piece.

  6. Run the string of LEDs through the hole you drilled in the base. I only had 5 LED's through the hole on mine. They are pretty bright, and I didn't want to go overboard.

  7. Wrap the stem with the LED string. You want to leave a bit on the end of the stem so you can put it into the hole on the base. I had one LED at the very bottom of the stem to illuminate the fallen petals, and worked my way up. I had another about half-way up the stem, by the leaves, and a third tucked under the green leaves right under the flower.

  8. Slip the LED string between two of the petals, and work your way around the flower. With each wrap you want to slip the wire behind another layer of petals, working towards the center. This is probably the most tedious part of the build, as getting the LED strand to stay in the blossom was a bit of a challenge. I found that bending the wire down before I worked it into the petals worked for me, because if you don't it will want to pop up out of the blossom. Tuck any remaining wire you have into the petals so it is hidden. I only had 2 LEDs in the bloom, and it gave me the illumination level I had hoped for.

  9. Stick the end of the rose down into the base, and bend the stem of the rose to your liking (mine is a tad leaning towards the side)

  10. Tape the wire to the underside of the base so it stays out of the way. I lined it up with the best angle of the flower, and made sure the wire came out the back side.

  11. I had 14-15 extra LEDs on the wire, so I painted over them with some black acrylic paint, because I didn't want there to be light shining behind the shelf or dresser when she set it up.

  12. Place the glass dome onto the base

  13. Enjoy!!!
u/xRehab · 1 pointr/somethingimade

Well I was on here about a month ago asking for advice on building a liquor cabinet that mimicked what the bar I worked at did. I had found these lights on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Controller-2034RGB-3315-3215/dp/B0040FJ27S

and decided to pull the trigger. For $33 I figured I couldn't go wrong and it was well worth a shot. Picked up a cheap bookcase from Big Lots for $30, and about 2 hours later this was what I had pulled together. Turned out way better then I expected, the colors look amazing and the bottles in the cabinet look even better then I had hoped. Have already blown a few minds down here at Uni with this, and I couldn't be happier. Also, whats better then leaning across my bed and making myself a drink without even putting pants on? seriously, this is the life.

TL;DR - I just feel like sharing my little creation as it turned out AMAZING

u/Fatpandasneezes · 1 pointr/somethingimade

And for Canadians, we have the same for $60: Kamenstein 20-Jar Revolving Spice Tower with Free Spice Refills for 5 Years https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00008WQ3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yi-Nzb9EK581X

Or, if you're willing to forgo 4 spices, $30: Kamenstein 20-Jar Revolving Spice Tower with Free Spice Refills for 5 Years https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00008WQ3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yi-Nzb9EK581X

Note: Reviews indicate there are no free refills available for Canadians despite the listing clearly stating free refills (there is potentially a $12 shipping fee if you insist)

u/Massless · 1 pointr/somethingimade

Very nice. Here are some tips:

  • It could be polished more. See the white likes that run along the solder joints? Using a q-tip to get those out really makes a big difference in glass.

  • Pick up the book Stained Glass Basics your better half already knows most of what's in the book but it's got a section on making solder lines smoother that is really valuable. I find myself going back to it when I need to clarify something.
u/deepeyes1000 · 1 pointr/somethingimade

Yeah I was in the same boat. Then just happened to see someone mention something related to that and I looked it up and lo and behold. I just dont want something to happen to you and your family and then your insurance may find out what caused the fire and then you are SOL.

I ended up using this power bridge:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIYAFR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NFlZAb22TAVB6




In hindsight I would have just wired it all behind the wall. It does look a little silly plugging an extension type cord into a working outlet and plugging it into the power bridge. But it is all code compliant and it was simple to wire and install. But this is usually only used for offset outlets like my old house. Your outlet looks to be perfectly placed so you should easily be able to piggyback off of that outlet.

u/hivemind_MVGC · 18 pointsr/somethingimade

All it takes to clean up your finish work is a rasp, a bunch of sandpaper down to 1200 grit, and time.

I suggest checking out these books:

http://www.amazon.com/Step---Step-Knifemaking-You-Can/dp/0615116590/

http://www.amazon.com/Wayne-Goddards-Knife-Shop-Revised/dp/0896892956/

http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Knives-Richard-Barney/dp/087341389X/

These were all invaluable to me when I was learning fit and finish. They're also all probably available through your local library.

If you do decide to buy some tools, you can get a TON of fast, efficient work done from just a cheap belt sander ($50 at Harbor Freight) and a cheap benchtop buffer (get a washing machine motor from a junkyard and built one, or spend $80 on one). Those two tools alone will make a WORLD of difference in your finish work.

u/ZeroXephon · 1 pointr/somethingimade

How often do you brake glass using a saw? Right now I use a kinkajou glass cutter and fracture the glass with hot water. I get ~95% success rate using this method.

u/blueskysiii · 13 pointsr/somethingimade

Looks nice. When I first went out on my own, I bought a McCormick spice rack for about $30, that unbeknownst to me, had easily $100 of spices in it. They still offer a version but the prices have gone up. I did find this rack on Amazon that even comes with 5 years of refills, but I cannot vouch for the brand or quality. $40. Just throwing it out there. https://www.amazon.com/Kamenstein-20-Jar-Revolving-Spice-Refills/dp/B00008WQ3L/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503601633&sr=8-3&keywords=mccormick+spice+rack

u/IncrediblyEasy · 5 pointsr/somethingimade

Now I usually cut with electric tile cutter and sand on DIY flat lap, but for someone looking to only do straight cuts and not make the glasses for sale I'd say go with one of the jigs available and then just do the hot-cold water routine, a candle or a jet butane torch over the score line.

Alternatively, you can also make a jig yourself, it's not that hard and will probably save around $30.