(Part 2) Best products from r/techsupport

First of all, its not really fair for you to limit your sister's videos to 480p so you can play OW without lag. You should both be able to share the internet, just because you see your usage as more important doesn't mean it is.

Now that that's out of the way, I'm guessing that your main issue is that you are trying to game over WiFi, as you said Ethernet's not an option. I would place most of the blame on one of two things, either you've got a shitty router that cant handle a lot of traffic and is causing latency OR you internet speeds are sub 25MB/s.

Option 1, shitty router: Without knowing the specs for your router I cant tell you for certain if this is the issue but streaming media does consume a fair amount of clock cycles and if its an older router (especially a cheaper model of older router) they are not built to handle that sort of traffic. A new Wireless AC router should be able to handle that traffic easily, I really like the ASUS RT-AC68U. ASUS in general has a very friendly router interface. To utilize AC performance, you may need to buy a new wireless adapter for your PC as well but your current one will connect via N.

Option 2, slow internet: With the above mentioned AC router you can implement QoS, without paying for faster internet this is the only way to resolve your issue. As I said before, its not fair to restrict your sisters laptop to slow 480p performance BUT (at least in my ASUS router) you can make a list of up to 5 devices that will be prioritized in the order of the list. Online gaming does not take much bandwidth, watch your task manager while gaming, most of the time you will be using less than 500 kb/s. If you put your device on the top of the list your packets will have priority, but your sister's laptop should still be able to stream without any difference to her quality. Some routers also have a "game prioritization" mode where they will prioritize known gaming traffic from any source.

Hope this helps, if you have any questions let me know.

Edit: I also would like to point out that I've tried gaming over a Powerline adapter as mentioned below. It was OK but there was still some lag and it seemed to max out at 100Mb/s download speed. I had better luck with a wireless AC pci-e card and an AC router.

The machine doesn't seem all that bad. Pretty old and some older/slower RAM, but really I think just throwing an SSD on there would make the best performance boost and is cheaper than building a whole new machine. Up to you, though.

Grab something like a 256GB SSD or something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417498227&sr=8-2&keywords=256GB+SSD

Install Windows 7/8.1 on it, tweak it some if you'd like to disable some services or whatever to save some RAM space, or add some faster/more RAM to the machine would be beneficial as well.

Thanks for the help. I'm currently at home, but will try that when I get back to school. I found and installed LinSSID. Is there a certain number or range I should look for when I'm monitoring a network? My home network signal seems to be hovering around -10 to 10. I'll look for a manual for the program later to better understand the information.

Can you recommend a usb wireless adapter that would improve my computers ability to capture wifi signals? I have this one I tried at school: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

Unfortunately, it doesn't help my problem at all and I'm willing to spend more money on a better one to solve my problems. Would something like https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/penguin-wireless-n-usb-adapter-w-external-antenna-gnu-linux-tpe-n150usbl help me?

That's definitely a closed-loop system. These are supposed to last 4-5 years, but they have been known to break before that. There's a propylene glycol/water antifreeze fluid (just like a car) inside them, and a little pump (powered by the blue/green/yellow/black cable) pushes warm water from the CPU to the radiator, where is is cooled down and returned to the processor. When they fail they go one of two ways, either they get a crack in them and the water leaks, or the pump quits working.
It's possible that for some reason your motherboard has decided to not run the CPU fan (which is actually the pump) at 100% even though it's overheating (things like quiet mode can do this) and it's possible that when it's running at say 85% that it's not enough juice to start the pump... Check your BIOS for any quiet/silent mode settings and see if you can disable them. If the CPU fan is showing an RPM rating, this is actually the rating of the pump.

If you have gigabyte's tuning software installed, make sure you max out the CPU fan speed. Pumps are not fans, and it's possible that the pump just isn't getting enough power.

If the pump has gone bad, you can replace it with something similar (expect about the same life span and noise level). Personally, I'd switch to air cooling, as there's less that can go wrong. /r/buildapc could probably make suggestions... The only thing you need to be sure of with your next solution is that it works with AM3 processors. Your motherboard is compatible with standard 3-pin fans and 4-pin PWM fans, so you can pretty much use anything.

Personally, I have this a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo. It's big. Very big. My case side almost doesn't fit on, but it's super quiet and doesn't depend on a pump. When idle, my CPU fan doesn't even need to run. It relies on heatpipes, which are VERY different from water cooling systems.

If you wanted to, you could switch back to a stock heatsink as well. The one that comes with your processor looks like this, but you may have a problem, it clips to a piece of plastic that appears to be missing from your motherboard (see here). You may have problems fitting OEM parts. I believe the Coolermaster fan I listed above will work even though that bracket is missing, but I'm not 100%

*edit: it looks like there's another black cable going into the heatsink in your top picture... Where does that go?

I've been using ASUS RT-N56U and been happy with it.

• Dual Band, Data Rate: 802.11n - up to 300Mbps data rate; Wired Performance: WAN to LAN: up to 900Mbps; LAN to LAN: 1Gbps
  
• Interface: 1x WAN port, 4x LAN ports for 10/100/1000 BaseT, Port: 2x USB 2.0 ports
  
  They also have a newer model ASUS RT-N66U
  
  
• 3 x Detachable antenna for 2.4GHz/5GHz with peak gain 3dBi/ 5dBi
  
• IPv6 support; VPN Server Support
  
• 802.11n: up to 450Mbps ; 802.11a/g: up to 54Mbps; 802.11b: up to 11Mbps
  
• Supports Ethernet and 802.3 with max. bit rate 10/100/1000 Mbps
  
• 4 x LAN ports for 10/100/1000 BaseT
  
• 2 x USB2.0 support got Printer sharing or HDD sharing

Yup, that one will do fine. They are all the same card with different coolers as long as it says GTX 1050ti (or in this case, GTX 1050 without the 'Ti' suffix. Ti is faster, but costs more of course). I have that model in my sisters computer as well and she is doing just fine with it.

Other than that, there isnt much that would give a huge increase in performance. With the exception of a SSD.
SSD's really bring any machine to life again. Everything loads so much faster. It will not increase gaming performance (framerate) but it will drastically reduce load times. Most games will load in a few seconds or less. Skyrim on my machine loads so fast, i can't even read the first word in their load screens that normally talk about things in the game.
The downside is, they are expensive for their size. Normally one puts windows on it, and perhaps your favorite game (or software if you use anything specific).
Something like a https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1520087828&sr=1-3&keywords=mx300 would work quite well, or the cheaper 120-150GB versions as well.

Depends a bit on how much money you have to spend.

After that, you need a new processor. Sadly, there isn't much you can do with your current hardware in that area. That would mean new motherboard, new RAM and new processor. Which is quite expensive. Pretty much half of a new computer.

My best recommendation is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, according to the manufacturer of your case and the manufacturer of the cooler it will fit just fine inside your case.
It has better cooling capabilities than the Noctua and it's also cheaper. Hope this helps you out and good luck!
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=2A2GA6J7P609D&keywords=hyper+212+evo&qid=1554571326&s=gateway&sprefix=hyper+&sr=8-1
Newegg:
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16835103099

I can't find any docks with Dual Link, but with DP output you can use an active DP to DVI-DL adapter. As I said, they are quite expensive. I will give you a link to one that should work just so you can see what to look for. I have no idea if it's good and it's one of the more expensive ones. Link. They don't have to have a USB cable for additional power, but many do.

In the description look for "2560x1600 at 60Hz". Some will say "Will only work with computers able to output DVI signals at 340Hz". That's not a thing, it's just that if it was possible Single Link would work at Dual Link speeds. This makes their product technically not a scam. At the bottom of the reviews, click "See all xxx reviews". You will then get a search bar. Search for either the resolution you need or 144Hz as that's a bit more popular with DVI-DL. If it supports 144Hz it will support 2560x1600 and vice versa.

If you are uncertain feel free to post one you are considering. I can only tell you if it should work as these are very often fragile and break easily.

> You should buy an SSD ;) Here's a great deal on one for my locale: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20

Doesn't ship to my location, but I will keep looking.

> That's the main thing to do. Clear out any of the heatsinks or fans that you can.

Any ideas on how to reach certain fans that I don't know how to get to? Or would you need to see actual photos in order to know how to help?

> Download a Windows iso (7 or 10, depending on which you have a license for) from the Googs, and then use Rufus to create a bootable USB drive from which you can tell your motherboard to start up from and install Windows.

And this would make it like the first time I ever booted up my PC when I first got it?

Okay so 150 feet isn't all that long for a able run. I have done many runs that are longer and have run faster speeds.

Did you run it parallel to ANY electrical cables? If so this is your problem.

When you say your not getting 25 MbPS what is the speed your getting? How did you determine that speed? Are you aware there is a difference between Megabits and Megabytes per second? (And huge difference) so your download speed on Chrome is not your Internet speed.

Since you have a cable ran and you are need good WiFi look into a Ubiquiti Wireless AP unit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500304812&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+wireless+access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=31-u-5bgo0L&ref=plSrch

I install these at work in residential homes. They are amazing. I installed the Pro version in businesses normally. (As they have an extra port for add another POE devices.)

Feel free to ask any questions and good luck getting it solved.

Do you have stock cooler/radiator? is so I would look into upgrading. This one is good one Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for budget and best on market right now. As for thermal paster Here is a pretty good one ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste

The thermal paste goes on top of your CPU when you fix your radiator/cooler, here is a good video on how, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2MEAnZ3swQ

> So I will try to defragment the hard drive later tonight.

This shouldn't be needed, as Windows 7 is much better with this than XP or older were, but it's worth checking.

> Does this mean I should buy a new hard drive? Should I start looking for cyber monday deals?

You should buy an SSD ;) Here's a great deal on one for my locale: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20

> Occasionally I will spray some air in some fans and on the components of my PC,

That's the main thing to do. Clear out any of the heatsinks or fans that you can.

> How would I do this?

Download a Windows iso (7 or 10, depending on which you have a license for) from the Googs, and then use Rufus to create a bootable USB drive from which you can tell your motherboard to start up from and install Windows.

Here's the options I'd suggest:

Replace airport with something like the TP-Link C7/C9.

• Depending on how far your backyard is from the router and things in between, may still have issues with WiFi
  
• Could always put the C7/C9 in a more central location in your house or closer to where you need good signal and just run a cable from your modem to the C7/C9.
  
• Easiest to configure, mostly plug-and-play with some config needed to setup password, SSID, IP scheme if you want to change it, etc.
  
  Buy a wireless access point and keep the airport for now.
  
  
• Try the access point where your airport is now and see if you get good signal in the backyard. If not, run a cable from the airport (or switch) to a more central location in your house, or closer to where you need good signal and setup the access point there.
  
• These are unbeatable wireless access points for the money.
  
• The AC lite will require some configuration.
  
  Replace the airport with something like an edge router X and also get the Ubiquiti AC Lite access point.
  
  
• Setup the edge router X where the airport is now and try the access point where the edge router is. If you don't get good enough signal where you need it, run a cable from the edge router to a more central location in your house or closer to where you need good signal and setup the AC lite there.
  
• Most configuration needed as both the edge router and AC lite require some configuration.

Definitely sounds like a power supply issue to me. I like to have a PSU tester on hand because in my experience, the PSU is the source of a lot of issues in systems, with the motherboard being the least common source of issues. Here's a cheap but effective PSU tester on Amazon that you can easily use to check the voltages of your PSU before you make any big purchases like buying new memory.

I have always used Western Digital drives. At the moment, you can get a 1TB Velociraptor for about $200, but that's kind of overkill, especially if you will be using a USB dock. You may be better off with a Black drive, which is fairly cheap at the moment. Various sizes available here
Honestly, the read and write limit may be more on the dock side of things, than the hard drive. You may want to upgrade that, as well. (This one is only $40)
For your self-powered device, there's one here that is only $70 for 1TB.
I'm sure you already know this, but any USB-powered device is going to take a serious toll on your battery life.

So short-list:
Docking Station
Hard Drive
External

Hope this helped.

I suck at comparing specs (espeically mobile graphics cards), but thankfully there is CYRI (can you run it), which isn't perfect, but I have found it to be good at giving you an idea if something will run or not - it also doesn't touch on how well something will run, so you may need to tweak settings. As for tweaking those settings, I am not sure if Titanfall has the "auto" thing that most games have now to figure this out.

1. You need the wireless gaming receiver. There are a lot of 3^rd party versions out there, but they seem to suck extra hard, so look for a 'genuine' MS version. Personally, I have had a wired 360 controller for a very long time (I hate dealing with batteries) and it has worked quite well from WinXP up to Win8.1. Amazon may not be the best price - I think I saw something over at /r/GameDeals, but that's usually for a promo code at NewEgg to knock a few bucks off.
   
   
2. 360 version vs PC version? I am rather biased here, but I am going to say PC - I play at a minimum of 1080p and I likes my frame rate higher than 30 fps. I am sure there are probably some actual reasons someone can give you.
   
   
3. The game mechanics aren't going to be any different. It's the same game, but you can control how pretty it is and what controller(s) you use.
   
   
4. Using a 'second' screen would add some strain to your system, how much, I couldn't say. If I ever have that issue when gaming on my laptop (not meant for gaming in any way shape of form), I just turn down some of the graphic settings.
   
   

I don’t know why I thought it was a laptop. That’ll teach me not to Reddit as soon as I wake up haha.

Yeah desktops are way easier to replace a hard drive most of the time. The cables can’t be plugged in the wrong way or anything so the risk of messing something up is very low. Have you opened the case to see what you’re looking at? It’s usually pretty straight forward. Just 2 screws on each side of the drive. Or some computer cases have little plastic clips that you can use to slide the drive in and out without using screws. I’m sure you can figure it out either way. If it looks confusing you can always post a picture of the inside of your case and I would be glad to walk you through the process.

An SSD works the same way as a HDD but depending on how old your PC is, there could be some compatibility issues with AHCI settings, etc. so it may be better to get a regular HDD. WD also makes 7200rpm drives if you’re concerned about speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Performance-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00FJRS628/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1540306088&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=western+digital+7200rpm&dpPl=1&dpID=51ZwlNfFj7L&ref=plSrch

"My question is, is there a way to take that one Ethernet connection that is going straight to the PC and put it into a splitter or something that allows me to have multiple Ethernet ports so I could hook up one to the desktop"

You can get a Switch. Yes like the person below stated. Think of it this way, if you want more then ONE computer to that area, why not have this person run 4 lines and then get a 4 Gang Wall Plate to the end of it.

So :

MODEM in room to >>>> Switch 4 port >>>> CABLE LINES RUN TO ROOM TO >>>>> $ Gang Wall Plate and 4 rj45 ends.

Also use for Cat 6 cable.

Best of both worlds, since most ISP router modems have like 4 ports in the back for multiple connections. Also if you hire this CABLE LAYER, tell him you will buy the cable (like the one above) and save yourself a surcharge. U bet you'd pay 150$ a box or more if they come in with it.

5ghz wifi base station and set it to bridge mode connect it to the uni wifi and then ethernet cable into your pc. basically it becomes the wifi card but will work a lot better.

2.4ghz has a longer range for transmission receiving as its a lower frequency. Could use a 2.4ghz bridge as well might be better but im sure with enough signal 5ghz should be fine.

USB network cards usually don't have a very good range as they are small, a wifi base station has nice big aerials.

​

https://www.amazon.com.au/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=asc_df_B008IFXQFU/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341773398184&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=263816913391382260&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9069013&hvtargid=pla-309497953602&psc=1

​

​

vs's

​

https://www.netgear.com.au/home/products/networking/modem-routers/d1500.aspx

I use a Asus n66u with merlin firmware its been rock solid for me. I like ASUS routers but Apple routers are also rock solid products too

AC is new wireless that will improve on the 5GHZ signal and AC is able to go through concert walls and such better and offer better speeds in a LAN (i think), but you will pay a premium for that.

http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/802-11ac-vs-802-11n-what-s-the-difference

Asus N66U- http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408222428&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+n66u

Asus n68u - http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408222403&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+n68u

Unfortunately you can only extend a partition to other partitions that are neighboring the one you're looking to extend.

​

To be honest you may want to consider purchasing a new, larger drive as having 3 OSs on a single 128 GB SSD is always going to be a very tight squeeze SSDs are fairly inexpensive now.

As an example here's a Samsung 950 EVO for less than $90:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S

​

I recommend Samsung because they have an amazing migration utility that you can use to move your windows partition off of the existing drive on to the new SSD so there wouldn't be any need to reinstall windows. (Other vendors may have a similar utility, I've just only ever used Samsung and have had great success)

Get this!

you don't necessarily need to use the software that came with your SSD, but I guess it wouldn't hurt. I see that your laptop has USB 3.0 ports which means the transfer process shouldn't take more than 20 minutes. Just follow the instructions and it should be painless. I use Macrium Reflect, but use whatever program you feel most comfortable with.

Sometimes people report that their computer isn't recognizing the SSD connected to the USB port. That is usually fixed by running disk manager and the computer will now discover the SSD connected via USB. (press the windows key + R, then type in diskmgmt.msc)

Once your finished cloning your HDD to SSD, remove the HDD, pop in the SSD and you should be good to go. In some cases you may have to manually set the new drive as the boot drive in your BIOS, but that laptop is fairly new so I doubt you would have to do so.

• When I test a ground pin against any other pin, all I get is either 0V or 5V...is this normal
  
  Likely no however the power supply isn't powered. still however an audible pop from a power supply often means blown fuse or blown capacitor.
  
  
• is there a better way to test the power supply?
  
  Buy an atx power supply tester from amazon or your local pc hardware provider. Another option is any pc repair shop worth their weight in salt should have an atx power supply tester. Take your power supply to one of your unable to locate your own atx power supply tester.
  
  The cost to buy your power supply tester is generally very inexpensive however.
  
  If you need a reliable replacment an evga G3 gold efficiency unit is among the best offerings currently available for power supplies having a seven year warranty and near perfect reviews from jonnyguru.
  
  The 650 watt evga G3 gold unit is $80 from amazon.

Believe it or not installing windows is pretty damn straightforward. If you have any questions just ask.

How much space are you looking to get on your SSD? Personally the sweetspot seems to 128-256GB (depending how much you want to put on the ssd) along with a 1-4TB hard drive on the side depending on what kind of storage you need.

300$ just for the SSD seems like a lot of money, a ~250GB SSD should only around 120-160 dollars and will be more then enough. Spend the extra money on a good hard drive.

Which SSD to buy? Samsung and Cruicial make great SSDs, others include PNY, and Seagate. If I'd had to pick for you an ssd to purchase right now, i'd go for a Samsung EVO http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405746504&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+ssd

Check here for good deals on SSDs, just have to be careful since the SSDs on sale aren't really top brands or quality. http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/?count=25&after=t3_2b002k

Do you have your own meter? To be honest, the best way to find out is to try it. These things are not overly expensive. If they don't work then return them. If it works well, and it should, they are 90% as good as running a cable. Even if they are a little crap they are going to be better than crap WiFi you have.

The simplest type that doesn't have WiFi and just cable are around $40.

Around $60 for one with WiFi. Plug one in near the router, the other in your room and bingo! you have WiFi!

Maybe something like this LINK I have not used this particular set but I have used TPLinnk in the past and it works well enough. Do some research, you might find a better one.

Since you already have a cable ran to your room for your PC, you just need to get a cheap gigabit switch and an access point. Connect the cable to the switch, then run a cable from the switch to your PC, and run another cable from the switch to a wireless access point in your room. Depending on your finances, the best AP for the money is this, but something like this would work fine as well. For a cheap switch, just get something like this, or netgear/d-link etc.

Cox puts the cox in coxucker.

That Cisco is not only a shitty router, it's really fugly too.

This router seems to be very capable, and at a good price point:

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-N-Router-RT-N56U/dp/B0049YQVHE

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320062

About a hundred.

If the budget is more than that, there are good routers above this in price, and there are other options at a lower price as well, but this router seems to pretty much hit the sweet spot for an average home.

What you might want to look into are power line adapters. Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSQAIQU/ref=s9_top_hm_b50jE_g147_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=06XWQR8D72M1RDXRX4M2&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=3b52e653-8edc-59d8-8d3e-b10a96ef91ed&pf_rd_i=1194444


What these do is allow you to use the existing wiring in your house via wall plugs. You plug one in by the modem/router and plug a cable in. Then plug the second half by your Xbox with a short cable from it to the Xbox.

Sounds about perfect for your situation 😊

personally, I'd buy a decent size ssd and an external usb enclosure. Put in the SSD, do a clean install of windows and programs, then put your old drive in the external enclosure and transfer the files you need. Also I'd lean towards a Samsung, for $10 more you get better write performance, more cache, and a better all around drive.

The only thing is I can't tell if the onboard SATA is II or III in your laptop, the specs are vague. With that gen processor, it should be III though. The main benefit of an SSD is the "seek" time, the read and write speeds are icing on the cake. So, even if it is SATAII, it will be a world of difference.

I have SSDs in everything and the slower the machine, the more of an impact putting an SSD in made. I have an ancient Acer AO721 netbook that is SATAII and a very slow AMD processor, putting an SSD in made that thing lightning fast. I'm a bit of an addict though and having > 2.5TB worth of SSDs in my big machine was just too many drunken nights with amazon 1 touch ordering.

If the HD is in working order, I would recommend cloning the HD to the SSD, so that Windows, all programs, and all data will remain as-is. If you re-install the OS on the SSD, you will have to re-install all programs and then move the data.

To clone you need both drives attached to the same computer at the same time. Since you have an AIO, it most likely only has 1 drive bay (but you should open it up and check), meaning only 1 SATA drive can be attached at once. So we need a SATA to USB adapter of some sort. Like this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Support-Inches-External/dp/B07Y25PRWG/

or this external enclosure:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S

The cable being for temporary usage, while the enclosure could later be used to convert your HD to an external backup drive (if the HD is 2.5" form factor, it may be 3.5", specs aren't clear to me, all SATA SSDs are 2.5", laptop HDs are 2.5", desktop HDs are often 3.5", AIO could use either)

Put the SSD in the enclosure or attach it with the cable. Boot to cloning software of choice (Acronis, Macrium, Easeus, Clonezilla, etc).
Clone HD to SSD. Shutdown, replace HD with SSD. Reboot. Everything will be as it was, just faster to access on an SSD.

You can also accomplish this using disk images. But you would still need an external drive of some sort. Save the image of the HD onto the external drive. Make a boot disk/usb with whatever imaging software you use. Swap HD with SSD, boot to the imaging software, and restore the image to the SSD. Boot to SSD and done.

If your HD is 3.5", you are also going to need this:

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Adapter-Mounting-Bracket-Interface/dp/B01LZWX6PD

To adapt the 2.5" SSD to fit exactly into the 3.5" bay.

Thanks, I really appreciate it, one more question if you don't mind. According to the manual the Toshiba has a 640 GB SATA HD, so I'm thinking this Samsung 840 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive would be a good choice. Protools, the music engineering program for mixing and mastering music, uses a lot of resources so I think this would be a good choice. Even though the Samsung SSD is 500 GB vs 640 in the notebook right now it should be faster because it's SSD and has much newer technology?

The cable plugs into the motherboard in the white connector towards the left. Then the cable plugs into the hard drive, there's a latch on the top of the cable cable that should line up with the opening on the hard drive, plus it's keyed so you shouldn't have to many issues. The molex cable is sided as well, like a trapazoid so it will only fit in one way. For the power supply, you can use the old one to power just the hard drive but I thought you said the current power supply had a molex connector. If you still don't think you're able to do it right, you might be better off getting a IDE to USB adapter like this. I have one myself and it works well, I kept the box and it stays in a drawer when I'm not using it.

"Note A standard Xbox 360 wireless controller can be connected to a Windows PC, but you must have an Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver to play games, even if you have an Xbox 360 Play & Charge Kit."

Taken straight off of Xbox's support page.

I used to use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

You might be able to find it cheaper somewhere else that's just the first one I found when googling.

Sounds like, in which case you totally lucked out man. Just plug your stuff into that and you're good to go.

If you want to also extend wireless you can buy an AP like this or one of a bajillion other models and plug it into the switch.

That should work perfectly fine for what you want.

Just remove the harddrive from your non-working laptop; connect the USB end to a working PC and the sata end to the hard drive you just removed and you should be able to access the hard drive as you would any other attached HDD/SSD.

You may have to take ownership of the folders (including other sub-folders as well, but that is also pretty straight forward. If you do run into that issue and need help, just ask.

Personally I use something like this as I am always having to access data for people whose computers have become damaged for whatever reason. It covers both 2.5" and 3.5" SATA and IDE. But if this is just a one-off data recovery mission, then the one you have linked to will do just fine.

I don’t know if that monitor supports hdmi 2.0 but if it doesn’t here’s an adapter from DisplayPort to dvi that will support 144hz

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=asc_df_B00A493CNY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11864583369199119158&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=2840&hvtargid=pla-314819641165&psc=1

EDIT: looks like the monitor supports 144hz over DisplayPort

EDIT2: read that you don’t have DisplayPort available on the monitor. The adapter should work, but is a little expensive

Oh yeah, batching works fine too, its just cost vs time equafion. I have few dupe needs, so I spent under $300 and I have 3 clones going from time to time myself. Have fun cloning☺

edit:
Here's what I use by the way;it's just fine for my needs
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV5000100/dp/B00JT0EGPW

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-eSATA-Components-SI-PEX40065/dp/B00AZ9T4F8

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG

and lastly the ssd's external / internal

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Shockproof-Enclosure-EC-UK3B/dp/B0126RO1YK

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7KE512BW/dp/B00LF10KTO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ99DI

Cheers.

Sorry I forgot to explain something, from what I know about using such devices. Even if you create a bridge between those 2 devices wirelessly, they may not be able to act as a Wi-Fi device as well, on cheaper routers they can act as a wireless bridge, but they cannot then be used to connect to Wi-Fi as well.

Also the reputation of Wi-Fi extenders is really bad. I would suggest getting something like a Ubiquiti AP AC lite, they have great range, plus you can have multiple Wi-Fi networks in one device! (Up to 4 separate networks AFAIK)

But make sure to shop around or talk to folks who have already have done what you need to get the most out.

install CrystalDiskInfo and check that there are no error on the S.M.A.R.T test.

SSDs are cheap right now u could buy one the diffrence day and night

and for the ram test it with memtest86

Edit: and last thing u can do is to use tronscript this will take long time (overnight is the best time for it) but make the OS bit fast and safe

Edit 2.0: btw the SSD is like this m.2 NVMe or sata is like this

The 2009 MacBook Pro accepts the 2.5 inch drive form factor, the products linked below are matched to be compatible with your laptop. Please do double check online for your model.

Since you're looking for a budget SSD I highly recommend the Crucial MX300 by Micron and the SanDisk SSD Plus.

Both have great performance and beats your budget goal.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147372

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726
Any newer samsung or intel ssd is fine.

If youre current drive is a WD or Seagate acronis has free editions.You will have to install and then it will allow you to make a bootable disc wizard.Or you can clone within the operating system.I suggest you make a bootable.Then clone.

Yikes, that's pretty high, I'd definitely try replacing the cooler and use some good thermal paste. I recommend http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ and http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-Grams/dp/B000OGX5AM/

I would say its depending in the ambiental temps. Here we are at 38°C and my idle CPU is ranging from 35 to 45°C, and I find it pretty normal. But I find yours to be just fine. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though.

The Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo seems pretty good at that price range.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Flash-Drive-SDCZ80-064G-AFFP/dp/B008AF383S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Nope. Get a Powerline Wireless network adapter with an Ethernet port.

I just put a TP-LINK TL-WPA4220KIT ADVANCED 300Mbps Universal Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater, AV500 Powerline Edition, Wi-Fi Clone Button, 2 LAN Ports into his apartment and I was very pleased.

Created an extended wireless network automatically and the remote unit includes 2 Ethernet ports for your wired TV.

Powerline sends network data over AC wiring at speeds higher than typical wireless network extenders and it's easier to set up.

>If I am paying for 50 mbps up and down internet, how fast should i be downloading a steam game? I just tried it plugged up to my router and it was averaging round 1mbps but shot up to 4/5 at some points.

50 Mbit throughput connection peaks at 6.25 MB/sec, given you are actually getting 50 Mbit through the line. Don't just take your ISP's word for it though, do a speed test to validate the stability of your connection. If you are on wifi, you will experience slower speeds unless you have a really nice dual channel 5 GHz router in an area where the channels aren't over saturated with connections.

>When i downloaded the steam game however, after i downloaded 2/3rds of the game it would keep dropping to 0 bytes and staying there for a while, any idea why that is?

This could be a connection issue, depending on if you are on wired or wifi, and depending on the condition of your ethernet cable. Or it can be an issue where you are downloading faster than your hard drive can write. Go to your downloads section and look at your drive activity, or look in the Windows task manager and look at what the write time is on your hard drive. Eg: is it pegged at 100%?

>I'm thinking about getting a new router because my wifi is very shotty, slow, and weak. what kind would you recommend?

This probably leads me to assume you are on wifi which explains everything you are experiencing. This Asus RT-AC68U will do anything you need it to, and then some.

As always, I recommend you to connect any system you will use for gaming hard wired, no matter how good of a wifi router you have. Even if I had this bad boy, I would still go with a Gigabit ethernet connection over wifi for a gaming machine, or anything that was data extensive. Save wifi for mobile devices that you are actually moving around with.

Correct me if I'm wrong but Belkin bought the Linksys consumer line so I wouldn't touch that. I prefer Asus, it's dual band with great signal strength. It's buried in my cellar, I get 1-2 bars standing in the road in front of my house. Asus RT-AC68U $170

I understand completely. But being how inexpensive current SSDs are is the only reason why I suggest it. As it increases the performance monumentally and it becomes a computer you would want to use for several years to come just because of the SSD upgrade. And yeah... like I said. Sad that they still sell Windows 10 machines with 5400RPM HDDs. It's like giving someone a cheap car with 10 thousand pounds of extra weight on it. You're gonna feel it and it won't be a good feeling. Just in case, I would like to recommend you a cheap good working SSD in case you change your mind:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539899137&sr=1-3&keywords=ssd

Probably your CPU. Have you considered replacing the cooler? The CPU cooler for the AMD FX series CPUs is not very good. It generates a lot of noise and doesn't cool the CPU very well. I suggest something like the this:https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486646840&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+212+evo

Also make sure you have proper airflow through your case. You said you have one fan, but you may want to put a few more in. Make sure the case is pulling air in through the front and pushing it out the top and back.

Replace your Toshiba HDD with an SSD.
Here is a good one: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410016229&sr=8-1&keywords=SSD

Spend the rest of your $400 on a better video card.

It will be like a new machine, I promise.

Might be time to upgrade the heatsync.

My CPU hit 85-90C while running ARK prior. Now runs between 30-35C. An obvious, but important note, make sure all your fans are pushing air the same direction.

Edit: Pretty inexpensive upgrade ($30). Cooler Master. Large unit, almost did not fit in my case. Not a difficult installation either, I just watched a couple YouTube videos.

I'm a fan of the ASUS AC1750 and the ASUS AC1900 for general home use. If you want more bells and whistles like mesh capability, MU-MIMO, etc. You'll be paying a bit more money, but you can take a look at Orbi, Netgear and Google for mesh capabilities if you want to go that route.

Additionally, if you want to save some money in the long run, you can buy your own modem. ISPs generally (I'm not sure about Cable America) charge you between $8-$10 a month to use lease their modem. I'm assuming it is a cable modem with a coaxial cable coming in through the back? If it is, you can pick up one of these and install it. It pays itself off generally in 8 months.

These are much higher quality than what the ISP provides and all you have to do is shoot your provider a call and let them know you are setting up a new modem and would like to return theirs. All they need is the MAC address on the box!

My first recommendation would be to if possible set up an Ethernet connection. That will most likely be your absolute best bet. However, if that is not possible at this time, getting a USB WiFi adapter (can be purchased locally at most tech stores or you can get something like this on Amazon, depending on your ISP's speeds) should serve you well for now.

Here's a good switch that I use for my computer setup in my room. They are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup!

quick question would you say either of these are good choices to get? i mean do they have good specs at first glance?

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SATA-Drive-Converter-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449650088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sata+ide&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-A12940-Drive-Adapter-Converter/dp/B001OORMVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449650647&sr=8-1&keywords=sata+ide&refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A6461716011

should i go for more expensive? will these break down in like 3 days cause of the cost?

If you're just looking for an adapter, yes they do exist. I use one for hard drives all the time but I don't see why it wouldn't work with an optical drive as well. If you'd like, I could test it out later tonight.

I use something like this, Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter With Power Supply & LED Activity Lights [4TB Support] (USB-DSC5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j6MCybNDNXQQ4

If it's a wireless controller you would need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

If it's a wired unit and you're running Win 7, you can just plug it in and it will be recognized like any other game controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2 - I have this and it works. The xbox 360 controller just shows up as a standard gaming controller. A lot of the new games auto detect that it is attached and auto re-map the controls. You can get these all over the place, including best buy, amazon, ebay, etc. Hope this helps.

Also, microsoft has software you need to install...

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/933710

What 2TB hard drive should I get that isn't too expensive?

Since you didnt mention any specs for the drive (2.5" or 3.5"), or price range, you can get http://www.amazon.com/Black-Performance-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00FJRS628/ or http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000DX001/dp/B00EIQTKAS/ provided this is a desktop. If not, let me know and I can recommend a 2TB 2.5" drive.

How should I go about installing it? It's been a while since I've replace a hard drive.

Each desktop and laptop will be different, so providing a model number would be helpful. However, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orAPCdr88hY shows how to do it on a desktop.

I didn't make a recovery drive. Can I just download the recovery file from Microsoft using my spouse's computer to reinstall windows?

Yes, just download the right ISO image from Microsoft. It should match up to the activation key you have on your computer (look for a sticker on the body of the computer). Go to https://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/#icon-eye-blue and look at the side bar for your operating system.

I'm sorry dude. Sounds like your ethernet port is broken. Don't panic though. No need to return mobo. There are tons of options out there. Many good wifi adapters, or here's a link to a really good pcie gigabit lan card. It's only like 20 USD too.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Ethernet-supported/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=pcie+lan&qid=1567039313&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I'd recommend getting an external drive enclosure then putting a drive in yourself.

This StarTech enclosure is supposed to be pretty good:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707329

Then pop in a 2TB Western Digital Black drive, which is a high performance drive, and you're still under $200:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJRS628/ref=twister_B00G6D6JXC

Something like this or this should do the job pretty easily.

It's no problem at all. :) There's nothing to worry about compatibility wise, just be sure to keep the receipt as USB WiFi adapters usually have an unnecessarily high mark-up in retail stores. When you install the USB adapter, make sure to go to your Device Manager and disable your onboard wireless NIC to prevent any conflicts.

Once you determine if it is indeed the onboard WiFi/NIC that's causing the issue, I would return the USB adapter and purchase an internal NIC with an external SMA antenna for better connectivity, such as this, or if you want to use a hardwired connection, this.

2013 MB Pros had M.2 drives or HDDs. If it was a HDD you're in luck, that's easy and not that expensive.

Just open it up and take out the hard, use a SATA to USB and essentially turn it into an external hard drive. You may need some freeware to convert the Mac files into Windows.

SATA to USB that we use in our shop: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1574806896&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-8

If it's the M.2 I would recommend you take it to a local computer shop and have them move the data as the tools are more expensive than the work.

Netgear or Linksys would be my choice.

This Netgear is only 10/100, but it's $20.

This Linksys is only 10/100, but it's a few bucks cheaper.

If you want gigabit, you could get yourself this Netgear 10/100/1000 for $35. There's also an 8 port option on that page for $50.

Any of those should work great for what you're doing.

Does it look easy to open up? And do you have a screwdriver small enough to open it?

If you look up a YouTube video on replacing your brand/model's hard drive it should teach you.

Just unscrew lots of things, (discharge static electricity by touching part of the frame) unplug a few components, and pull the drive. Replug all the components, and close it up!

Really the only things that could go wrong are:

1. If you shock a sensitive piece
   
2. If you strip one of the plugs
   
3. If you let stuff fall into the laptop
   
   So follow the instructions, and make sure to touch the metal support structure often, and it will go fine.
   
   It's not like it will become less useful to you if you mess it up.
   
   If not having the hard drive in doesn't fix it, then you can buy an external hard drive enclosure example to recover your files and have a super big usb drive.

You're on the right track; what you're wanting is an extra wirelesss access point. (not a router)


If you've already worked out how you can safely run CAT6 from the router in the home back to the apartment, then all you need is an access point to provide wireless connectivity on the other end. At ~225ft, you should be fine with a single cable run. I'd recommend looking at a Ubiquiti UniFi AP, you can pick any that meets your needs. (Wireless N/AC, long range or not, etc)


UniFi UAP (wireless N)


UniFi UAP-LR (wireless N, long range)


UniFi UAP-AC-LITE (wireless AC)


The AC versions are rather new and should be closer to $100-110 MSRP. If you wanted to go that route, wait until there's stock at B&H Photo.

Are you using wifi to test the speed? If so, try connecting a computer with an ethernet cable (any type will do, if it was bought in the last 20 years). Make sure all other devices are off, or at least not using data. To test, use speedtest.net. It will automatically choose the best server and measure your speeds. If your speeds are still slow, it is your ISP's fault. Contact them and figure it out with them.

If your speeds are fine with ethernet, then it's a wifi issue. Your current router can handle 60 Mb of network traffic, just not through wifi. It could also be metal pipes in your walls creating a Faraday cage. In either case, you should buy a Ubiquiti access point. This is the cheapest option, this one is more powerful, and this is designed for use in large buildings or spaces. They are probably some of the best access points you can get but might take a little setup.

A solution would be something like this headset adapter here. You can find them online if a few different colors. Hope this helps! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gMQ3CbWX54TQ5

Get either a 5 port or 8 port Netgear Gigabit switch depending on how many devices you need. If you have 5 devices, get the 8 port because one of the ports will be used by the connection to the wall.

Don't get a super cheap one. They don't last.

5 port: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502858441&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

8 port: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Lifetime-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502858441&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

Not the cheapest, but they'll last and won't give you any problems. Make sure you get network cables to go along with them. Buy them on Amazon, not the local super store. They'll be 1/10th the price on Amazon as they will be at Best Buy or whatever.

I would recommend the WD Black 2 TB. http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Cache-Desktop-WD2003FZEX/dp/B00FJRS628/

they come with a 5 year warranty, and are very fast.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539737968&sr=1-3&keywords=displayport+dvi+dual+link+active

One like that, being a powered active dual link converter will support 144Hz at 1080p.

Another option is to sell the monitor you have and get one with Displayport.

well, the wifi would mostly be for family iphones (misc generations) and a couple tablets bought w/in the last 18 months (nexus 7, asus transformer).

If i'm reading this correctly, some routers push across multiple bands for these old devices? like this asus router

> Up to 1900 Mbps, 802.11AC(1300Mbps over 5G) + 802.11N(600Mbps over 2.4G).

Am i reading that correctly? Would it be a mofo to get set up? Or does it share security protocol for both bands?

thanks!!

The maximum TDP of the Cooler Master 212 is 180W. That means it can only effectively cool a processor of up-to 180W. The FX-9590 is a 220W processor; your heatsink simply can't keep up with it. I would suggest something like the Corsair H100i.

get one of these it's not a fancy enclosure or anything but it'll allow you to get the data off pretty much any drive in existence.

This is very useful, thank you! Will this one work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=twister_B01IGSUN0O?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

This is the one I got. Good price and works extremely well.

Cooler Master Hyper RR-212E-20PK-R2 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wrBNpwuq9KO5m

Oh i get it wow. Interesting situation. I would translate my petition on Google translate the print it out and give it with the psu.

Also there is a cheap psu tester. Maybe they have it.

HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Qz1CbSEJDJ20

Hey there,

Finding the right drive is easy. As long as you make sure you choose the right form factor (2.5" in your case, as it is a laptop drive) and the right connector, you should have no problems. In your case, the drive you want to replace has a SATA II connector. As long as the drive you choose has at least a SATA II connector, you should be fine. All you need to do then is choose the capacity of the drive. That is up to you.
Here are some links to possible SSDs:

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405201568&sr=8-1&keywords=2.5+ssd

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ocz-storage-solutions-petrol-256-gb-2-5-internal-solid-state-drive/1310399259.p?id=mp1310399259&skuId=1310399259&st=ssd&cp=1&lp=14#tab=buyingOptions

As long as you keep these things in mind, you should be fine:

Connector: SATA II or higher
Form Factor: 2.5"

I hope this helps

Issue is the ASROCK built in network adapters are garbage. We were attempting to get a system ready to deploy with an asrock board at work with their on board network adapter no matter what we did the network adapter did not work properly with windows, Linux, worked just fine. Highly recommend getting a PCI network card and just using that

Edit: Link to the network adapter we used, plug and play: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k9cnDbHX6GWR7

Surely the uni will allow you to use a switch and a small NAS, which is what I would recommend.

Because the resolution is higher than 1920x1080 you will need the active DVI-D to displayport. However, it also needs to be dual link as well so you'll need something like this adapter. The 3007WFP doesn't have a scaler so it defaults to 1280x800.

Oh sweet, thank you very much!

Edit: Would this be a good one, being a one time use thing don't plan on wasting too much money. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI

You can buy an external wireless card. This is pretty common when your builtin wireless card stops functioning. If your current wireless card is the issue then a new one will resolve this issue. Here are some examples from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+wireless

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+wireless

A simple, unmanaged switch will work fine. Netgear is a good choice. Gigabit speed, metal case, lifetime warranty. Like this:

[Netgear GS105](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3?aaxitk=Xekmbr5YXPQy1qtRc8A0-g&pd_rd_i=B0000BVYT3&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3ff6092e-8451-438b-8278-7e94064b4d42&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=netgear+switch&hsa_cr_id=1113147310301&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=NETGEAR%205-Port%20Gigabit%20Ethernet%20Unmanaged%20Switch%2C%20Sturdy%20Metal%2C%20Desktop%2C%20Plug-and-Play%2C%20ProSAFE%20Lifetime%20Protection%20(GS105NA)

What piece of hardware are you using that is WiFi capable? I doubt the motherboard has WiFi built into it. Once you find out what you are using for WiFi hardware, just google the model number and download the driver specific to your operating system your using. Or use the disc that came with the hardware.
If you dont have any WiFi capable hardware, you can purchase a cheap USB dongle to help get you by http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414948421&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+usb

I have this one ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479680284&sr=8-2&keywords=sabrent+ec-ahdd ) and it works well enough. It's only $13 at the moment. You'll obviously need something to put the files on but it essentially turns your drive into a USB stick. Though the pictures don't show, it does come with a power supply and a few other adapters. Feel free to browse the QA on it.

I have had great experiences with these Samsung SSD drives. I have two of the 840s in RAID 0 on my gaming rig and one in my laptop and have had them for about 5 years. Zero issues and no signs of age.

EDIT: Also, if you are looking for something cheaper Crucial drives are pretty decent and come with a cloning software trial. However, if I had a pick over the two I wouldn't hesitate to grab the Samsung.

I'm guessing they're wireless? If so, do you have the USB Wireless Adapter?
I'm pretty sure this is the driver I use.

The IT department has their own DHCP server which assigns internal IP address for the devices on their network. The router also has a DHCP server, and it was probably configured. The problem here is that devices will connect to the router, get a valid IP from the router only, and not see school's network. It's a big problem.

The router can be configured (I believe) to forward on DHCP requests, but I think it's better that you get a simple 5-port switch. They might be able to provide such a thing (maybe not, given their unwillingness to help so far), or you could buy one for cheap.

So, I'd remove the router, tell them that you need a switch since you only have one port in the office and have x many devices that need to be connected. If they can't give you that, maybe just buy it.

I really don't know much about CPU fans (my gaming days are over and I primarily work with business machines both at work and home) but these don't look too bad. Hopefully someone more in the know will chime in though?

Check this thread
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/6bu1ew/do_i_need_an_aftermarket_cooler_for_my_ryzen_5/

Without knowing if you are overclocking or how much room you have in your case, here are some possibilities:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-ONE-Processor/dp/B076LQ2BJZ

Stock
https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-3-93-Inch/dp/B079PZWX2L

I would go with a hardware solution.

I have an Asus Black Diamond Router.

Here is my bandwidth monitor page. Apparently, I did 67.7 gigs of traffic in December. I'm actually surprised. Maybe I shouldn't be, 5 users. One is a netflix/youtube fiend.

Just buy an adapter from Sata to USB, and it will work like a charm.

https://www.amazon.fr/Sabrent-Adaptateur-Optimisé-support-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=2IJCI7Y0UJWBU&keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1570130783&sprefix=sata+to+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3

I recommend grabbing one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ for $15. I understand you may not want to buy anything extra, but I figure that a $15 tester is better than potentially frying a new GPU.

You probably need a splitter, example splitter on amazon

Microphones that work with smartphones have four connections on the plug. The microphone signal is on the extra ring.

Microphones that work with most PC's have three connections on the plug with the microphone signal on the tip. (Headsets that are combined headphones and microphones need to have separate headphone and microphone plugs to work with most PC's.)

Some PC's made in the last few years support microphones and headsets with plugs with four connections, most PC's don't.

This gets asked so often that perhaps it is time for someone to write an article for the knowledgebase, ideally with pictures.

Get this. You get a little more space than the Samsung, and this drive works great. The flash memory is made by Micron, one of the biggest memory makers in the world, not some no name brand.

Are you interested in recovering the data of the hdd or do you want to getting the unit running again. If you only want the data off the hard drive.Here is a video on how to get the hard drive out of the unit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS3cov47g0A
It should be a standard 2.5 inch notebook sata drive. So all you need to get the data of is a cable like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500096437&sr=8-5&keywords=sata+to+usb
and a working pc.

The jacks probably don't support using both. It has to be designed a certain way to support line in and line out through the same port. I believe many motherboards don't support that, so you could get a cheap splitter like this.

Not the biggest and the baddest, but I always have one or two of these on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LZSS68P0B5JA&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter&qid=1565881705&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=usb+wireless+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3

You have two options, neither is cheap:

A) Buy this Dual Link, Powered, DVI/Display Port Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B00A493CNY?th=1

B) Buy a new monitor. I'd suggest something with Free Sync as this works with nVidia and AMD. https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16824025942?Item=N82E16824025942

What models are the current ones you're using?
The UniFi range is nice and can do seamless transitions between different APs so long as you have a computer running their control software, but are kinda expensive https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1524752349&sr=8-8&keywords=802.11+ac+access+point

There's a huge range of access points/routers available.

Yes you can. You can use something like this to make it external.

Excellent question.

There is a stock heat sync that comes with the CPU (it's why the container is so big while the CPU is small), and I assume it works just fine, but I personally upgraded to a Cooler Master. Just keep in mind the physical size of the heat sync is rather large (it actually covers up a RAM slot on my motherboard) but you will never run into a cooling issue as long as there is proper air flow through your case.

E: If you choose to use that cpu, make sure you install the proper holding unit for it FIRST as it requires you to screw it on from behind the motherboard (mine does anyways) so you may end up needing to pull everything out after installing it to get it on.

Something like this.

Note: that is only an example, ensure you match your own drive's specifications when buying an enclosure

I'd recommend trying something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_AG8NDbVSNXCYB

No worries.

If you just want to do a full reinstall of windows you take out the HDD, put in the SSD, and install windows from scratch.

If you want to clone from the HDD to the SDD you need software and either a USB to SATA cable or a drive enclosure.

If you go with a M.2 you will insert it and use the cloning software to clone your HDD to the M.2 drive.

Something else to look into, if you have a smaller SSD and larger secondary drive, is to move the search index, Windows temp files, and such onto the larger, slower drive. Doing this frees up the precious space on the M.2 drive while reducing the overall read/writes.

Personally I would save up for the M.2 drive, make that primary, and keep the HDD as a secondary.

Yeah I was thinking of the 360 controller dongle. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

Not what you need. Should be fine with regular Bluetooth dongle.

Edit: Seems the xbox one controller will also work with one of those dongles (still fine with normal bluetooth as far as I can tell).

if headset and mic are both routed to 1 plug that has 3 rings on it then you would need an aux in port on the PC that accepts those 3 in 1 plugs. usually those are only found on laptops. you will need to get something like this to split them into speaker/mic outputs

> my headset only has one jack and a USB lighting up the headset I think, since the jack works without power. https://imgur.com/a/bKOVgjx

aaah ok got it.

the thing is. this jack combines audio left and right (LR) and microphone in one jack (3 black rings). Your PC does not have such an combijack port. You will need to get an splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

That is the Phase LED lights.

The number of lighted LEDs indicates the CPU loading. The higher the CPU loading, the more the number of lighted LEDs. To enable the Phase LED display function, please first enable Dynamic Energy Saver™ 2. Refer to Chapter 4, "Dynamic Energy Saver™ 2," for more details.

Per the manual you need a speaker connector to hear the BIOS POST codes. So you need to get a motherboard speaker connector

https://www.amazon.com/Corporate-Computer-Motherboard-Internal-Speaker/dp/B01527H4W2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motherboard+speaker+4+pin&qid=1564728106&s=gateway&sr=8-3

http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-p55m-ud2_e.pdf Page 26

I doubt your PSU has died but who knows, get a PSU tester to verify.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=PSU+tester&qid=1564728267&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 around $ 20 dollars.

Few suggestions then at this point, in no particular order:

1. USB to Ethernet adapter instead of using the built-in: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522086886&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+to+ethernet
   
   
2. Install your own internal ethernet: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-PCI-Express-TG-3468/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522086941&sr=1-3&keywords=pcie+ethernet+card
   
   
3. Reinstall Windows 10 and make sure to install the drivers only (which may or may not actually fix the problem)
   
   I would recommend 1 or 2 as they are cheap solutions that should work without any further issues.

no passive adapter will work for what you want. Passive meaning it only makes it so that one connection type fits one end, and another type on the other end.

You'd need an active adapter, and it would be very expensive. And even the best ones will have some signal degradation.

I'm sorry man.


edit: here's one


edit2: here's the same one but cheaper

Here is an internal Ethernet adapter that should work for you; but you will have to have it installed. And I would recommend using an Internal over a USB based one as a more long-term fix.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Ethernet-supported/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2/136-1763447-5920729?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003CFATNI&pd_rd_r=c98c3ede-9490-4a39-a853-6fc9e163a55f&pd_rd_w=CpbjS&pd_rd_wg=FJIlV&pf_rd_p=479b6a22-70ae-47a0-9700-731033f96ce8&pf_rd_r=EMNC59JFK8EVYDRB8364&psc=1&refRID=EMNC59JFK8EVYDRB8364

I have never seen an actual HDMI -> DVI (DL) converter. I don't think they exist. You would have to do some kind of crazy multiple converter setup.

So you could do this:

Convert HDMI to DP (make sure it supports 4k30, not just 1080p60 like most of them, otherwise you will have the same issue, but for different reasons.) The one below will do 4k30

$50 - http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-HDMI2DP-DisplayPort-Active-Converter/dp/B004I6IYSM

Then you convert DP -> DVI (DL) as those do exist, but not cheap:

$110 - http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

That might work. I say might because while they list up to higher resolutions than 1440p, there could be issues using them together. Then again at $160 you are probably better off going with a new monitor.

Are all of those Cat5 cables fully wired and terminated for Ethernet connections?

If so, are you able to simply connect Wifi access points to each of the Ethernet cables in your home to provide a full wifi connection throughout? Or at least plug in an AP to the switch so you have both Ethernet connectivity and wifi?

I wouldn't recommend running a long chain of wifi signal boosters connected to one switch, and connected to another from there; if you can avoid it.

If you can have a router in your central networking closet, which has multiple Ethernet cables going through the walls into different rooms, you can plug Wireless Access Points on the other ends of those Cat5 cables, making a Star topology network rather than a Line or Tree network.

Each access point would then have equal speed to the main switch / router and provide a more stable connection.

As for a decent WAP, I believe these ones are nice: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=zg_bs_1194486_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7A2T4AH4W82EFXPBPJKG

Thanks! I actually bought this and it should be arriving today or tomorrow. I just need an external disc drive to run the disc they give me, if I don't want to buy one I can download a program to do it right?

No not that.

I mean something like this. It is really easy to install. You just put it in the PCIe 1x slot and install drivers.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TG-3468-Gigabit-Ethernet-PCI-Express/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pci+1x+wired+adapter&qid=1562003223&s=electronics&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

Then you map the buttons in the emulator's options. The wireless signal should be strong enough to reach from the office to the TV room if its close enough.

Alternatively you can look into getting a $50 steamlink, which is designed for streaming games and you're able to connect the controller to the machine.

Do not purchase a router with the ADSL modem built in. A straight router, I could recommend the Asus RT-AC68U or the TP Link Archer C9 i

Use a cable like this to plug your hard drive into another working computer and transfer the stuff out. Then you can wipe it and reinstall the fresh OS once you have it plugged it into your new motherboard.

What was done to the computer such that it's not functioning? It kind of sounds like it could be revived, if nothing was done to damage the hardware.

Of course there is a way to get at the data. There's a wide of way of adapters/enclosures for hard drives that can plug into a computer with USB or other means.

Assuming the drive is in good enough shape, anything along this line should work fine, once you get the drive out of the computer (which is relatively easy on that model.)

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=lp_160354011_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453398653&sr=1-5

Is it a desktop? You'll probably need a wireless adapter of some kind, this is probably the easiest way to get wireless.

For audio download [this driver](http://www.realtek.com/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High Definition Audio Codecs) and see if it works.

two options - open up the laptop & make sure the wires for the antenna havent become loose/disconnected, and if so, reconnect them. if that doesnt resolve, then get something like https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU

Assuming the HDD/SSD is fine (it should be), you'll simply need to buy a USB 3.0 External Drive Enclosure like this, take out your HDD/SSD and connect it to another computer to recover your files.

You have a couple of options: Internal wireless card, or USB wireless card.

there's tons of different brands and price-points, but they essentially do the same thing. If you want to find more, on Amazon or ebay or whatever search "PCI Wireless card' for the internal, and "USB Wireless card" for the USB one.

Are you using the stock cooler? if so that's normal.


Currently with about 5 reddit tabs open with a 4690k and R9 390 using a Hyper 212 cooler I am at 41 degrees. Hit about 70 under load in games.



Your current temps are more than fine whilst on idle, and to be expected whilst under heavy load. If you want to fix that, pickup a Hyper 212 for $30. You won't regret it.

This one should be good?
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDMI%2Binto%2BDVI%2BDual%2BLink%2Bactive%2Badapter&qid=1558397670&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

The TP-LINK Archer C5 is a good cheap router.

If you have more in your budget, I'd go with the C7

And then, even better (imo) but more expensive, the Asus AC68U

They typically come in either 2.5" form factor (which looks like this), or what's called an M.2 form factor (which looks like this). You'll need to open up your laptop and see which one it has. Then buy one like that. Obviously the branding might not be the same in your case, but the general size and shape will be.

Stop using the machine now and power it down. Pull the hard drive from it, and get a SATA to USB adapter to connect it to a secondary computer. It will show up as a removable device mapped as a probably the D:\ or F:\ drive, or somewhere around there. On the secondary computer install Recuva and scan this drive, it should find any files marked for delete and will allow you to pull a copy of them. The SATA to USB adapter is a worthwhile investment for when things like this happen.

You can purchase a wireless receiver and connect it to your laptop:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

There is also a package with both a receiver and a controller, if you need an extra one:

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B004QRKWKQ/ref=pd_cp_e_1

This works great (I used it for quite a while), as many PC games are designed to work with 360 controllers, and you can have up to 4 connected to one PC. The downside is that it introduces a large cord and rock-sized receiver onto your laptop, making it less portable.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/?tag=logicaincrem-20

212 Evo is the most popular entry cooler.

If you are 100% settled between the two of these I would say the TP-Link router. I recommend this due to the external antennas being able to provide better range. However if you are open to suggestions I would recommend this router as I personally own it and have no problems with it.

yes this is what you want

Thanks for the response.

I have a PSU tester on the way and should be able to test that soon. I've never used a PSU tester so not quite sure how I will be able to know if the PSU is bad, but hopefully it will have some instructions for that.

The tester I got is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UZHB6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The network card is a PCI-E version, this one. Once I had gotten internet from the ethernet at my friend's house, I downloaded the drivers, and the device performed fine using ethernet. It also shows up under network adapters in device manager, alongside a device named "Realtek PCI GBE Family Controller", which I'm fairly certain is my mobo ethernet controller.

PCI-X - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3269-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Network/dp/B0034CSUZ8

PCIe - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3468-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Express/dp/B003CFATNI/

You probably need PCIe. It will probably be better than wireless, especially if you have gigabit LAN to all your devices.

I'll probably get that, however I found a good deal on one used. Any reason to not buy it?

Its the below roiter for $50-$80 Canadian

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_90DYDb4YDD5CF

Yup. If you need more coverage, add another access point, or old router configured as an access point, and then set them all to the same SSID and password. Your devices should roam to whichever provides the better service.

hey, thanks for the reply. I got this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NDLCGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

again it works on my phone with I plug in one at a time.

Thanks chravus! That's exactly what I'm doing:

Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] (EC-SSHD)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LsDmyb0NPA589

I'm buying this.. as far as I can tell it's exactly the same as a caddy but just plugs in to the end.. right?

Can you remove the end piece? That just looks like an adapter of sorts. If you can then all you need is an enclosure such as this.

Things can't go wrong since your CPU is unlocked. But you need an aftermarket cooler first. This would fit your CPU just fine, https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

Also, I think the heatsink that came with your processor should be fine, but i'd personally go for an aftermarket to OC.

If the port is in fact dead, you can pick up a PCIe NIC for pretty cheap. It won't be the fancy Killer NIC that you have on the mobo, but it'll work. - I have that same board and would be pissed if it got hit by lightening. :)

Good luck.

You're probably using a gateway, not a switch. What is the model number of your "switch?"

You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_6

The easiest way to check is to see if your x2 PCIe lane lines up with a slot on your case the same way the x16 lane does.

If it does, I'd suggest you buy a shorter adapter than that one that's mostly out of the way of the cooler.

So, you'd run a wire from your main router/gateway/modem/whatever to an access point somewhere else.

The Ubiquiti AP AC-Lite is a popular model.

Thank you! I was thinking either that one or this one. HDE 20+4 Pin LCD Power Supply Tester for ATX, ITX, BTX, PCI-E, SATA, HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QkGLBbBHYYW8N. Would you suggest testing the psu before I put in the new card? Or since it will be under warranty go ahead and try it.

That controller is wireless and you'll need a wireless adapter to make it work. The mini USB cable is only for charging.

EDIT: no data is ever sent over that cable, just like the regular play and charge kit

Yep, the stock ones are junk. I recommend the hyper 212 evo. It has over 1300 5-star reviews on amazon, and includes thermal paste. $30.

Running your 8320 at 70 degrees all the time will kill it in a couple years, so definitely get one.

Anyways, let me know if you have any other questions, or if that issue persists with a new cooler. Hopefully it fixes your problems :)

yes. you can also use powerline adapters:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

plug the modem into one powerline adapter, and the WAP (wireless access point) into the other powerline adapter. that way you need 2 short ethernet cables.

you can also return your WAP and get powerline adapters where the second one is also a WAP

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Universal-Powerline/dp/B00HSQAIQU/

He's putting the heatsink on wrong somehow if he's broken 3 retention brackets with the stock heatsink, I guarantee it. The stocker isn't heavy enough to break the retention frame with weight alone.

It's time to move to something like a Hyper 212 EVO which has a different, metal retention mechanism that bolts through the motherboard. Note: Must remove motherboard to install this cooler.

Edit: Info you didn't supply, but that is necessary: This is starting to seem like a prebuilt and not a homebuilt system:

> Retention Bracket - Plastic, but screws in. Plastic lips keep snapping off.

Stock AMD heatsinks clip to the retention frame, they do not screw onto it. You sure you're using a stock retention mechanism? I'm not so sure...

What you need is a network switch like this:
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/
Plug cable from other room, laptop, and desktop in to this.

You can split using a 5-port gigabit unmanaged switch to split the connection somewhere before the two rooms. Something like this Netgear

As others have said, It's IDE and something like THIS is what you need.

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

The charging cables do not work. Source:my experience

You can't just hook up a standard cable to a wireless 360 controller and have it work. It can't be made in to a wired controller. You need a wireless receiver for your PC.

Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2