Best products from r/techsupportgore

We found 68 comments on r/techsupportgore discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 619 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

11. 1home Wood Monitor Stand Arm Riser Desk Storage Organizer, Speaker TV Laptop Printer Stand with Cellphone Holder and Cable Management, 16.7 inch 2 Tiers Shelves Black

    Features:
  • 【PREMIUM WOOD MONITOR STAND RISER】Our monitor stand riser is made of premium eco-friendly MDF wood without any air pollution. Moreover, we using the professional craftsman exquisitely polished & painting finish for a long-lasting life. This monitor stand riser is great for your office, living room, bedroom, and study.
  • 【ERGONOMIC MONITOR STAND RISER】The monitor riser stand measuring 5.6inch in height to keep your screen at the best ergonomic position. Our monitor stand helps prevent health effects such as excessive fatigue, eye strain, neck, and back pain.
  • 【MONITOR RISER STAND WITH STORAGE ORGANIZER】Our monitor stand rise comes with cable management slots that can make your cord stay organized. Cell phone holder will free your hands to make work easier. The monitor shelf provides enough area for storing laptops, keyboards, wireless mice, and daily necessities to keep your desktop tidy.
  • 【EASY TO ASSEMBLE MONITOR RISER】This monitor stand riser instructions are clear and easy to follow, so the assembly takes only a few minutes. The monitor stand includes soft rubber feet, ensuring your monitor is perfectly stabilized on your desk and the desktop remains scratch-free.
  • 【FULL OF CONFIDENCE】 24-hour online after-sales service, always respond quickly, friendly, and helpful. If you have any dissatisfaction, please feel free to contact us (provide the order ID).
1home Wood Monitor Stand Arm Riser Desk Storage Organizer, Speaker TV Laptop Printer Stand with Cellphone Holder and Cable Management, 16.7 inch 2 Tiers Shelves Black
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Top comments mentioning products on r/techsupportgore:

u/xiaodown · 25 pointsr/techsupportgore

It's not too terribly difficult, honestly. I enjoy it. There's a bunch of ways, but here's some tips that I have figured out.

  • Label your cable ends (either use a label maker or just get one of these booklets).
  • Two people make it go more than twice as fast. Buy pizza for a friend.
  • Leave the cable box at the source, pull cable to the destination.
  • Get a set of fish sticks for sending wire down/up walls. Buy a couple of rolls of electrical tape, too, for taping wire to the fish sticks.
  • Measure to the same height as the electrical outlets in the wall for a clean look. Get the same color faceplates and keystone jacks as the electrical system already has.
  • Make sure you use a stud finder with AC electrical alerting before you cut.
  • When you are ready to cut a hole in the wall, take a wall box eliminator, flip it backwards, and trace the inside with pencil. Then cut with a utility knife. I find that a dremel saves time but creates a LOT of dust, and really isn't that much easier.
  • Pull the cable (or fish stick) through until you've got a good 2-3 feet sticking out of the wall. If you think you're EVER going to need more than one jack in this room, run it now (it is easier to buy two boxes of cable than one, and run two cables simultaneously).
  • Put the wall box eliminator in the wall, and fold the tines back / screw the holders in (they all basically have some mechanism of "grabbing" the wall, to give you a hole in the wall with the two faceplate screw holes like an electrical wall box has, but without the box - which is safe because it's low voltage (don't do this for real electrical work!!!))
  • Cut off the first 6 inches or so of the cable with your dikes, because it might have been fucked up being taped to a fish stick and rammed through the wall, etc.
  • Strip off the outer jacket of another 4-5 inches using your cyclops stripping tool.
  • Terminate into the rj45 keystone jack using a punchdown tool.
  • Even though, technically, as long as the jacks have the same wiring pattern on both ends, in America, we use EIA/TIA 568-B as our wiring standard. This will be displayed on the side of your RJ45 jack.
  • In your wiring closet, leave a loop of 6 feet or so (for future upgrades/troubleshooting), and then terminate all the cable ends into a labeled patch panel.
  • Pop your RJ45 jack into the keystone hole in the faceplate. (tab down, you don't want dust to settle into the wire contacts), and screw in your faceplate. Label it, if you can do so and it looks nice ("Living Room 1", etc) so it corresponds to the patch panel in the basement/closet/etc.

    Congrats, you've run a cable! It's female at both ends, so you can just use a patch cable to run from the wall to your PC, and from the patch panel to your switch, to your modem/router, etc. This wire is now a part of the infrastructure of your house - you won't have to cut anything out when you leave, you just unplug the wires and leave the infrastructure for the next person.

    Hope this helps.
u/Darkdayzzz123 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

A VM could absolutely work with a pass+through and the card /u/grimman listed (or SHOULD in theory). We have a similar setup for RFD (remote firing device - those are newer ones just a reference) where the software only runs on XP and will not ever run on anything newer (I tried way to much to get it working so I know it won't lol).

Has to have a cable just like the one linked above (this one incase the above is removed for any reason :P) and it works just fine.

Software installed fine on the VM, the VM found the adapter card after just plugging it in, boom RFD worked wonderfully on a win10 laptop running the VM now. No more lugging around the old winXP brick of a machine!

EDIT - OP comment: You may need a different adapter then what was mentioned however setting it up on a VM "should" work just fine; it is worth atleast trying :) plus it means you can have a backup ready to go at a moments notice! Just take a snapshot of the VM once you are done getting it working perfectly and problem solved :)....or backup the VM itself and save it to a network drive to be actually backed up....or both the snapshot and VM backup. I recommend both!

u/qupada42 · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

I've heard a lot of people in /r/arduino and similar speak highly of moderately-priced soldering stations like this Weller one. While I love my JBC, on price alone I can't entirely recommend it.

What I've always found is best are skinny (and preferably interchangeable) tips with a decently powerful element behind them, giving a good mix of precision and power. You should definitely buy a "station" style soldering iron rather than the cheaper kind where the mains cable goes straight into the iron, the lighter-weight cable between the base and iron makes the whole process so much easier.

My advice for learning would be to start with an everything-included kit that produces some kind of usable item at the end. This was the first Google result for "through hole soldering 101 kit", which appears to be some kind of "Simon" game. Coincidentally, one of the first things I remember making with my own soldering iron. You can move onto surface-mount, assuming you don't get the bug and decide to go straight to reflow soldering once you've figured out which is the hot end of the iron, buying a reasonable iron rather than a bargain-basement one so you get a sufficiently precise tool will enable your first purchase to carry on working for you longer.

My only other piece of advice would be to avoid lead-free solder like the plague until you've figured out the ins and outs of the process. It's almost universally terrible stuff to hand solder with at first and takes a lot of getting used to. Just stick with the easy to use leaded solder and avoid breathing too much of it until you've got the process down.

u/Wail_Bait · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

I'm sure you can get a good DAC for cheap, you just need to look at a different brand. This one is 15 eur and appears to be the same as the Fiio. Google had trouble translating the page, but the reviews seem to be pretty positive.

It works the other way around too, with you getting better prices on stuff made in Europe. For example, the DALI Zensor 1 is 290 eur, and over here it's $390 (353 eur).

u/pcrnt8 · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

This was from ~5 months ago. This was from about ~6-7 months ago.

 

When you clean a lot, the cleaning becomes easier. I wrote a whole thing about it here. But to add to this, every month or two, I use the brush attachment I was talking about. I take all my components (except my CPU and case fans) out and I use the brush+air to get inside the PCI slots and ram slots and around all the heat sinks. Like I said, cleaning more often makes the cleaning process in general easier.

 

This isn't the one I bought, but it has really good reviews on Amazon, and I have seen a couple guys over at PCMR recommending it.

u/ElliotWalls · 4 pointsr/techsupportgore

I know it might be a bit of a time investment, but have you considered wiring in a usb mini to micro adapter into the headset, and then have him start using a magnetic micro-usb charging cable?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+mini+to+micro+adapter&i=mobile&crid=1AJAYVK5KR613&sprefix=usb+mini+to+micro%2Cmobile%2C123&ref=nb_sb_ss_fb_1_17

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6FYLFC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That way he can't break the headset anymore. (theoretically) I use these cable adapter combos for most of my usb gadgetry, and they work well.

As for the headset adapter, consider using a usb extension cable and the running it to the top of his monitor, attaching it with Velcro. That way there's little chance that he'll move it, it will be out of the way, and be in good signal range.

u/mikaey00 · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

For those that are curious:

  • The stack on the far left contains six Orange Pi Zero's on top and one Orange Pi Zero Plus on the bottom.
  • To the right of the stack is a Raspberry Pi 3.
  • In the center is an Orange Pi PC 2.
  • On the far right are two Rock64's. The one on top is the 2GB model, and the one on the bottom is a 4GB model. (I have one more 2GB model on order.)
  • In the back left is an iSelector 10-port charging station. (I went with this one because it advertised that it could put out 2.4A on all 10 ports.)
  • In the back right is a MediaSonic ProRaid 2-bay SATA enclosure, with two Seagate 2TB Barracudas loaded into it.
  • On the bottom is a TP-Link 24-port gigabit switch. (It's mounted vertically because I made the mistake of mounting it in the front of the rack; if I had mounted it the right way, the door would have pushed against the ends of the cables and probably caused them to exceed their MBR. One of these days I'll move it to the back of the rack.)

    What am I using them for?

  • All of the Orange Pis, the Raspberry Pi, and the 2GB Rock64 board are running a program to search for a solution to the Magic Square of Squares problem. It's a custom program written in C, so it doesn't need much memory or disk space; mainly what it needs is processor power. The Orange Pis are cheap, which makes them a good fit for this.
  • The 2GB Rock64 is also running a bot to search for cut-and-paste moves on Wikipedia.
  • The 4GB Rock64 is going to be my new web server. (Right above it, just out the frame, is an HP ProLiant DL140 G1 that this board will be replacing. The HP is probably more powerful, but it's loud and it sucks up more electricity than the Rock64 does.) I picked this one because it supports USB3, it has gigabit ethernet, it has 4GB of ram (which is the same as the HP that this will be replacing), and it didn't cost an arm and a leg.
  • The other 2GB Rock64 (when it comes) will be used to network share a 4TB backup drive. (Right now, the drive is hooked up to a VM on another server.)
  • All of these boards are running Armbian, except for the Raspberry Pi (which is running their Debian distro).
u/stavn · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Apparently it was in a case like [this] (http://amzn.com/B00GP63XZW) and was backed over by a car. the huge square indentation was from the kick stand area on the back of the case. and yeah, it still worked which is pretty hard to believe.

u/aberuwork · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

As long as it has two side of holes, he's probably getting similar air flow, funnily enough. The static pressure around the laptop is going to be a lot higher than if it were out in the open.'

Also for anyone wanting to do something like this where it's under your monitor? It's real easy, get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/1homefurnit-Universal-Monitor-Computer-Organizer/dp/B01M4S7ZGM/

And just put the laptop under it.

It's not that hard, cmon.

u/matt314159 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

I spent $60 on this "DataVac" blower for our help desk, and we LOVE it. You could blow leaves off your deck with this thing. basically a 3/4 hp motor on a handle. http://amzn.com/B001J4ZOAW

u/Brino21 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

As an 06 (low voltage technician) this hurts me to see x.x there are other options for repair that would be much better than this current set up. Here's a few methods;

  1. For under $5 you can get these [IDC connectors]
    (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Yellow-IDC-Connectors-25-per-Pack-85-950/100036034)

    basically you put both ends of the cut cable inside color for color then use pliers to push the yellow button down. If you're able to trim the cable a bit then you could maintain the twist going into these connecters (the twist is important) and it'll be a fairly solid splice. I believe their also gel filled so the copper won't tarnish. It has some protection.

  2. For around $20 you can get this punchless termination tool plus two cat 5e Jack's and a short patch cable

    This method would add solid connections all the way through. Even though you experience a little loss at each jack, it would probably be negligible for home use. You'd just terminate the two Jack's and plug them in to one another.

  3. For around $28-$30 you could get the [punchless termination tool] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADWQHK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uAArDbNF31QH4)
    One Cat5e jack and an Rj45 crimper tool that comes with Rj45 connectors (Ethernet plug ins) and a 4 pair tester you could use to verify you punched it all down correctly. The idea here is you'd plug the cable with the Rj45 termination directly into the Cat5e jack. It's similar to the last method, youll just have one connection instead of two.


    Spend any more than that and you're better off just replacing the cable all together.

    Keep in mind, I don't do these quick fixes professionally unless it's a matter of safety (a customer that deals with life safety calls, etc) and need to be up while replacing their data drop. The most ideal method would be to replace the cable entirely, but any of thes could work fine. Also leaves less of a headache for the next guy.
u/Goofball666 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Electronic Parts Cleaner spray and hope: http://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

Next time apply MAX a grain of rice sized amount on the CPU and then spread across the top with something flat. The goal isn't to drown the CPU, it's just to fill in any small spaces between the CPU and heatsink to improve thermal conduction and avoid hot spots.

u/punzada · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

We use these in our shop. Work perfect for cleaning out PC components and saved tons vs compressed air cans.

u/smokeybehr · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

LOL @ $42 being pricy...

I have a Weller soldering station that is a little more expensive than that. Of course, I use it on a regular basis, for sometimes hours at a time, so it's worth spending the money for good tools.

u/rivermandan · 6 pointsr/techsupportgore

>Nah, regular tweezers are less narrow most of the time.

these suckers are my go to, are $5 a pair, are insanely strong, yet are so dang narrow that I regularly stab myself to the point of drawing blood while aimlessly twiddling them

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6

but yeah, the msafe jack is a series of tiny neodiddlys covered by a thin piece of plastic. but yeaher, if you have five bones to spare and want to expereince the best bang for your buck tweezers money can buy, I can't endorse these guys hard enough. I used to be big on aven which are a budget japanese brand and cost 5X more, yet aren't as well built or rugged. CHP for life

u/two2teps · 6 pointsr/techsupportgore

There is absolutely an easy fix. Two of these, mounted parallel to each other (like this = ) above the switch. Then 1-ft patch cables to the switch.

I'd also recommend turning the switch around so the patch cables are facing the doorway and not jammed into the little nook between the switch and the phone equipment. It has a right angle power cord so you could even move it in more towards the phone system.

u/ZombieLannister · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

I like the Datavac Duster. Use it at work a lot. Works good.

u/Gizmokid2005 · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Yeah....You should've just patched the cables to length and given us a before/after. That's easy peasy. You can get 100 ends for like $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M5BIII/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hTDltb0T2T4HT

u/pale2hall · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

It's actually Cockpit Premium: https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

It works great for car interiors and old plastics / laptops / etc.

u/grimman · 59 pointsr/techsupportgore

> Can't move to a VM because it uses proprietary PCI interface cards, which also don't have updated drivers.

Pass-through + https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PEX1PCI1/dp/B0024CV3SA

Perhaps that could work? In any case, you'd still have to run the old OS version, but at least you would have slightly easier access to newer hardware (not counting the PCI card, obviously).

u/YuuB0t · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Really thin tweezers probably. Maybe drill a thin hole, and screw in a thin screw to pull it out. If you can't you might have to replace the jack.

Edit: Hakko CHP 3-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Precision Tweezers with Very Fine Point Tips for Microelectronics Applications, 4-3/4" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPEWI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-k2SCbAXPW0HV

Here are some thin tweezers lol

u/nukacolaguy · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

This is normally what I use to clean them, outside of course!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J4ZOAW

u/efpe3s · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

If compressed air and a toothbrush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

u/Net_Bastard · 1 pointr/techsupportgore
  1. Buy this

  2. Protect your eyes and lungs

  3. Go to town
u/ChickensAintDucks · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

I do it every 3 to 6 months typically. Bought a data vac and never looked back at canned air again. It's basically a reverse vacuum, gets in nooks and crannies that canned air could only dream of.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/

u/g1mike · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

I use a similar one by the same company I think. I'll never go back to compressed air. http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

u/omarfw · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

get yourself a datavac if cleaning PCs is part of your job. canned air is too expensive for how much you get.

u/confused_boner · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

Sorry, I linked the more expensive model. This one is the exact same, but cheaper! Not sure why they did this but w/e.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Are you saying they vacuumed it? Or just stuck the unplugged vacuum in the PC hoping it would do some sort of voodoo magic? Do you have a special tool too use as an alternative (computer duster or otherwise) that she should have used? You're very vague!

Pretty low probability that vacuuming a PC would cause anything to go bad. There is the low probability that it would cause static build up and zap something. Just in case I use one of these, but if a vacuum is all you have...