(Part 2) Best products from r/techsupportmacgyver

Use this connector into the port.
https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Micro-female-extension/dp/B00HAOK7XE/ref=pd_sim_147_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HAOK7XE&pd_rd_r=1K7Y8KM8CCG3NA9TRDK3&pd_rd_w=3MLQx&pd_rd_wg=S0wfJ&psc=1&refRID=1K7Y8KM8CCG3NA9TRDK3

Use some epoxy or gorilla glue to bead around the connector between the controller and now you have a short little dongle that weighs next to nothing hanging off but keeps the controller wireless when needed. Do the epoxy in a few coats, don't just glob it on there super thick, it takes forever to get strong then. I recomend against super glue, it will just make a mess.

You can use this to make it look prettier if you want as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-Classic-Multi-Color/dp/B008URBC9I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GEHJJR1SV07J2VYRE363

It's not a MacGuyver special, but I've had good success with a RetiCAM, which fits a camera tripod and can expand large enough to hold a standard Raspberry Pi case. (I use the RetiCAM to hold a RPi2/camera/WiFi-dongle combo on a tripod as a super cheap and simple portable network camera for things like watching my smoker's temperature from anywhere in my house.)

That's interesting.

I just realized my original comment may have been misunderstood.

The "sense" socket that I described is not actually switched off at any time. The idea is that whatever is plugged into that socket gets continuous unimpeded power so that the IR detection is powered up and you can use the remote, at which point the board's current sensing notices the extra power draw and switches the other sockets on. And to clarify, the TV goes in the sense socket, the backlight power supply goes in one of the switched sockets.

For context this is the cheapest one I found on Amazon, just to identify what one looks like (it labels what I'm calling the "sense socket" the "control socket"): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM

I'm also very curious about what you said about the TV. It sounds like you may have gotten those two buttons to push out of the service manual, and already done that digging. What's the actual error code? That's fascinating and I wonder why it's happening.

Finally, if you do decide the relay solution is the way to go, you may end up appreciating posting to /r/electronics - finding 12V that's only energized when the rest of the TV is on sounds like a small rainy day project :P

Awesome, fun project. For anyone looking for an out-of-the-box solution, I've used this with great success in the past.

Edit: amazon link

That's, and I kid you not, exactly what we're doing. The back of the switch is covered in 3M "outdoor" mounting tape, basically this stuff, but the name-brand. The switch was mounted to the wall in the guy's bedroom before, and in the ensuing battle between the wall and the switch, well. You can see the scrape-marks on the switch where he hacked off the drywall off, once both came out of his bedroom.

I think we'd consider building a rack, my dad lives on a farm so lumber and tools are available every month or so, but for two switches it's just more effort than it's worth (especially when Mounting Tape exists).

Something I might as well ask you though, I do want to build a rack for some of my own gear. 2x4 seems to be the material of choice, does driving bolts through it provide enough holding force to keep the switches up, or do the backs need to be supported as well? I want to put some full length servers in there as well, 1u, 2u and 4u, and would prefer to see them not deconstruct their enclosure. Is there a height limit, and will I need to re-enforce the structure? I was thinking something like this but a lot of online tutorials seem to have metal rails on a wooden frame. Are those for convenience of racking, or will the metal-in-wood just rip the 2x4 to pieces?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, but "DIY rackmount on a college budget" advice is pretty rare :P, so thanks for anything!

Yeah, better to get one strong fan like a 200CFM+ like this one;

https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-FFC1212DE-Strong-200CFM-Cooling/dp/B01LLYQ2VE

(may simulate the sound of a jet engine)

edit- video of a 240CFM fan test https://youtu.be/u3Lq8fkXtDc?t=231

Exactly. A sleeve-bearing fan are the old standard ones that HAVE to be mounted vertical or else it squeals like a pig. A Hydrofan is a loose term form a fluid dynamic bearing fan. Even fan weight at any angle, and whisper quiet for a very very long time.

Here is one of the little guys I bought a while back. Even at max speed it sounds like someone gently blowing a few feet away. I highly recommend it.

Edit: But don't take my word for it, check out these tasty links at your local libaray.

One and-a Two

Get a Pluggable USB-3 dock, a male DVI to female VGA adapter, a USB 3 sharing switcher, and a female USB 3 to male USB-C OTG cable. I promise absolutely nothing

• Install the appropriate DisplayLink drivers on each computer
  
  
• Plug the computers into the host USB ports of the USB sharing switch (use the USB OTG cable to connect the Mac)
  
  
• Plug the Pluggable dock's host USB cable into a peripheral port of the sharing switch
  
  
• Plug the DVI to VGA adapter into the DVI port of the Pluggable dock
  
  
• Cable up the monitors
  
  
• Pray
  
  Plugable USB 3.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station for Windows (Dual Video HDMI & DVI / VGA, Gigabit Ethernet, Audio, 6 USB Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECDM78E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_30Q1Ab3BX3P9J
  
  UGREEN USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Selector 4 Port 2 Computers Peripheral Switcher Adapter Hub for PC, Printer, Scanner, Mouse, Keyboard with One Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_53Q1AbPGC4FS6
  

The Koogeek three prong outlets are like $30.
$30, ten min to set it up, five extra min if you want to configure automatic on/off timers and you’re good.

We’ve bought a handful of these and they’ve been great.

I’ll have to go find the link.


EDIT: Ok, they’ve gone up, now they’re $32 and some change.

Koogeek Smart Plug, WiFi Socket Outlet, Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant, Electronics Controller No Hub Required on 2.4GMhz Network https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVIG20O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D1F5BbBMSZZNS

> This is for a simple analog wall clock, so I’ll go out and get AAs once it starts to get out of time.

Get rechargeable AA batteries next time. I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer.

Honestly they work all right for me as long as I bend the wire over the head.
At some point I'm going to switch them for auto stripper pliers like these - Stripper Pliers

But I need to upgrade a lot of other pieces of my kit like my soldering iron which is like a 48W hand tool without a temperature setting or anything.

I've got a desktop ATX power supply on my desk running a desktop GPU hooked up to my laptop. I'd like to eliminate some of the wall sockets I'm using. This laptop only had 1 USB3 and 1 USB2 connector, so I'm using a powered hub on the 3.0 one. Can I use something like this or something similar to power the laptop itself or the hub from the PSU? This is a 12v adapter, but I imagine and hope others exist for my needs.

I'd also be interested in any other accessories that would benefit the laptop that could also be powered by the PSU. And finally, I have no idea how to tell if the barrel connector is even the right size.

If there is a USB port on the switch, get this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These fans are amazing. 1 of them keep my network equipment cool. Works like a champ.

Also $30, but 128 GB. I have one and I love it, fits nicely in the small pocket in my trousers.

Yes! Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Tupperware type containers have worked great for me on a number of simple outdoor low voltage projects. I do always make sure to use grommets where the wires pass through though.

MDR7506 master race reporting in. I got these pads a few years ago, and they still look pretty much like new. Even more comfy than the stock ones, by far. My stock pads were pretty much shredded within a year.

[Just had to do a little quick fix on my set the other day.](http://i.imgur.com/XTse9Js.png
)

The rubber had torn, so I just put some heat shrink tubing around it and was very careful not to melt the cord with the heat gun. Seems to be working great. I've had my pair about 4 years now.

I used to have a fan inside the end of a section of dryer hose to protect against accidental contact. It works great if you want to blow cool air in a specific area.

Great list!
just placed an order for the Instamorph, I can think of a lot of things I can use it for.

another good thing to keep handy is JB Weld, it has saved me countless times.

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416784847&sr=1-1

It's a more accurate way of measuring how much gas is in a tank.

Just taking an average 10L Jerry can off Amazon. Apparently, it weights 367g

If we weight the can with an unknown amount of gas in it, we can get the weight of the gasoline. Subtract the weight of the can, convert the weight to volume, and you have the amount of gas you have.

So, as an example:

We measure the canister with an unknown amount of gas to be 2.58kg

Subtract the 0.03kg from the canister to get 2.55kg

Convert weight to volume and we get 3.4L

While for a plastic Jerry can it's less useful, but it would be great for a steel canister. It's not super accurate, but it's better than picking it up and guessing.

I got this kit off Amazon. I'm actually really happy with the quality and functionality.

www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Cooling-Solution/dp/B003XN24GY